Aren't the Duramax cylinders hard coated? How did they hone the coating without ruining it or not doing much at all? Also, just changing rod bolts on the rods will shrink the bores slightly, but not usually enough to make the crank lock up and not turn. Since you didn't check the housing for spec after putting in the new bolts, its hard to say. I'm going to guess the rod was installed backwards and it had no side clearance.
Crank broke on my lly up so I threw an 100k lb7 short block in it after hearing the cranks don’t break and it broke within 6 months lol. Went to Callie’s crank, SoCal rods and Mahle performance cast and great so far
Hey man, awesome video. Very thorough & informative. I tossed around the idea of building my lbz engine with lb7 crank and pistons. Curious though, are all the duramax main engine components interchangeable? Or did you send out your crank & pistons to machine shop to ensure proper tolerances?
They are all interchangeable. You don’t want to mismatch lb7 and lbz rods because they are different weights. Also… the harmonic balancer and flexplate are specific to crank they came with from the factory
good video the only thing I would suggest is that you find another machine shop if they are afraid to line hone it because of messing up the gear lash that's ridiculous if you have studs and it makes the mains out of round it's supposed to be done by skimming the main caps zero on the block with the cap torqued down and then line hone it it will not mess with the gear lash unless they are terrible machinists
If you can forego align honing a diesel, that is the way to go. Put in the studs and check it, changing fasteners doesn't always throw the main bores out of spec. Align honing, however does and will drop the crank centerline into the block by a few thousandths. Not only does that tighten up gear lash, but it also lessens piston to head clearance. All things that need to be checked and compensated for during the build.
Probably the only video that talks about the oil system. Galleries as it were 😂 When you say "remote feed" are you talking about adding a prelube pump/circuit? So pressurized oil should hook up to that remote port you showed as oil input? From there the prelube should make its way to every component including the turbo? Can you run prelube at the same time as the engine oil pump? Or u need a check valve on the remote feed and shut it off B4 starting the engine? I'd been doing just thought experiments about adding a prelube system but I always assumed to pipe in/out by the oil cooler. Id like to remove stock oil cooler entirely and use the delete kit from PPE or one of those guys u can Google it. Oh and another question: using lml ecu, not lb7? So u can run vvt amongst other benefits?
Running the lb7 ecm. Honestly I haven’t looked that far in depth to the lubrication system. All I know is that the front port there is the best lubricating port
lube stud bottom out back out 1/2 turn , washer no lube block side , you don't want the washer to turn either lube top of washer or bottom of nut. lube stud threads , take your 175 and divide by 3 . Also don't forget to center your trust washer main cap move crank forward and back to get proper end play
@@St0neRacer to set thrust I usually smack the front and rear of the crank with a dead blow, I’ve had washers spin when they’re completely dry before. So I don’t know how much a difference it makes
I’m a plumber, I know how to not get tape in the system, I do it for my job every single day. Haven’t ever had issues. Also only used tape this one time because I was out of liquid
This is a great video, good camera work, informative but not talkative, if you make more rebuild videos like this you will do well on TH-cam
Nice work dude
Thanks for this info!
Aren't the Duramax cylinders hard coated? How did they hone the coating without ruining it or not doing much at all? Also, just changing rod bolts on the rods will shrink the bores slightly, but not usually enough to make the crank lock up and not turn. Since you didn't check the housing for spec after putting in the new bolts, its hard to say. I'm going to guess the rod was installed backwards and it had no side clearance.
Yes sir awesome Bro
Crank broke on my lly up so I threw an 100k lb7 short block in it after hearing the cranks don’t break and it broke within 6 months lol. Went to Callie’s crank, SoCal rods and
Mahle performance cast and great so far
It seems to be a hit or miss, I’ve heard a lot of things from a lot of people. There are also plenty of factors involved
Hey man, awesome video. Very thorough & informative.
I tossed around the idea of building my lbz engine with lb7 crank and pistons.
Curious though, are all the duramax main engine components interchangeable? Or did you send out your crank & pistons to machine shop to ensure proper tolerances?
They are all interchangeable. You don’t want to mismatch lb7 and lbz rods because they are different weights. Also… the harmonic balancer and flexplate are specific to crank they came with from the factory
Great video. Curious why not keep most of the interior LML. Why LB7? I get the crank and fuel pump but not sure about the rods and pistons etc
Lb7 have stronger crank and pistons, lml have stronger blocks, lml or lbz rods are strongest and lbz cam has the best stock profiling
good video the only thing I would suggest is that you find another machine shop if they are afraid to line hone it because of messing up the gear lash that's ridiculous if you have studs and it makes the mains out of round it's supposed to be done by skimming the main caps zero on the block with the cap torqued down and then line hone it it will not mess with the gear lash unless they are terrible machinists
For sure… I actually did find another one that has a lot more tooling and knowledge. Little farther away but worth the drive
@gm_central3389 good because if they were afraid of line honing it over gear lash they got no buisness even touching a diesel
If you can forego align honing a diesel, that is the way to go. Put in the studs and check it, changing fasteners doesn't always throw the main bores out of spec. Align honing, however does and will drop the crank centerline into the block by a few thousandths. Not only does that tighten up gear lash, but it also lessens piston to head clearance.
All things that need to be checked and compensated for during the build.
i like video
Probably the only video that talks about the oil system. Galleries as it were 😂 When you say "remote feed" are you talking about adding a prelube pump/circuit? So pressurized oil should hook up to that remote port you showed as oil input? From there the prelube should make its way to every component including the turbo? Can you run prelube at the same time as the engine oil pump? Or u need a check valve on the remote feed and shut it off B4 starting the engine? I'd been doing just thought experiments about adding a prelube system but I always assumed to pipe in/out by the oil cooler. Id like to remove stock oil cooler entirely and use the delete kit from PPE or one of those guys u can Google it. Oh and another question: using lml ecu, not lb7? So u can run vvt amongst other benefits?
Running the lb7 ecm. Honestly I haven’t looked that far in depth to the lubrication system. All I know is that the front port there is the best lubricating port
Not sure about putting lube under the main bearing cap washers. I think those need to be dry torqued or your torque will be wrong.
I’ve always done it this way, haven’t had any issues yet. I’d have to check with the manufacturer and see what they say.
lube stud bottom out back out 1/2 turn , washer no lube block side , you don't want the washer to turn either lube top of washer or bottom of nut. lube stud threads , take your 175 and divide by 3 . Also don't forget to center your trust washer main cap move crank forward and back to get proper end play
@@St0neRacer to set thrust I usually smack the front and rear of the crank with a dead blow, I’ve had washers spin when they’re completely dry before. So I don’t know how much a difference it makes
where did you find that paper with all the torque specs ? Thank you!
Type "Duramax engine torque sheet" in Google. That longhorn torque sheet comes up first as a PDF.
Longhorn Fab
Hey do you know what kind of HP you are you expecting to get out of this? Thanks!!
Around 750
Cool man! You have great information videos.. could I call you for a couple questions?
how much did it run you?
I wanna say 5k, might vary on the machine shop you do to and what brands of parts you use
Moral of the story, CLEAN YOUR PARTS! Lol
Bro is cute asf
Boy, am I glad you're not doing my engine. Rebuild f line tape no. No.. One little speck in one little hall that squirt tile gonna blow your motor up
I’m a plumber, I know how to not get tape in the system, I do it for my job every single day. Haven’t ever had issues. Also only used tape this one time because I was out of liquid