I lost my husband to cancer and I have had to take over the maintenance on the pool with limited income. This video allowed me to replace some parts without having to pay a repair man. Thank you so much!!!!!
This is theabsolutely the best Utube DIY video I have ever seen. Absolutely brilliant. Shows everything you need to know, especially discharging the capacitor so the person does not get shocked. I learned this from my father 50 years ago. Great Job!!
Yeah, great vid. But he missed the other capacitor which is on the side and repeated some misinformation the pool store spewed at him about the shaft seal. The reason you don't touch the seal is because having anything on the ceramic will cause it to fail very quickly. Oil from your hands will generate heat and cause failure.
Fantastic job. Especially the speed-up of the camera replay during the bolt-tightening sequences. Very thorough, you covered everything. I just spent $550 on this same job. I watched what the tech did to learn and to assess whether I could do it myself, then I watched your video here, and next time I pretty much know I can do the job myself. The new pump motor only cost $230 on ebay so I will save a lot of money next time - thank you kindly for your excellent video!
I just used your vid to help me replace the shaft seals. It works great now. Thank you so much. The pool guys wanted 250. I got it done for the price of the parts. Ha! I saved 220 bucks.
Very nicely done. Covered all the minute details and good video shots. My pump that died after 10 years of service needs to be replaced and the new one is coming tonight.
Wonderful video. I had the pump seal fail and this gave me the confidence to take it apart (I was guessing as to how it came apart until I found this) and successfully replace the seals. Thank you!
I'll watch someone's video a bunch of times before I tackle a job and by then I know exactly what to expect and I can go in with confidence as well. Great to see and hear how this video is helping out.
Great Video, knowing the shaft nut is left handed and the impeller right handed saved me a disaster. FYI, you only need to remove the capacitor, to insert a small wrench on the shaft for back up. NOTE: After putting the seal and O-ring kit on my StaRite Maxiglass II, I had a drip coming from under the pump band. I was dumbfounded. Logic tells me if there is a drip from there, it has to be the large O-ring. After wasting an hour cracking the case 3 times and checking to make sure the O-ring was in the groove, I finally noticed a tiny hole in the bottom of the case. I then noticed that hole led to a drain plug located right next to the case band. Low and behold, I unscrewed the drain plug and it had a cracked O-Ring. Replaced the plug O-ring and voila, no drip! After putting a mirror under the pump body and noticing the calcium deposits running from the drain plug to the bottom of the case band, I am now almost positive that tiny O-ring was the only bad seal on the pump. I don't feel too bad tho, since I ordered the kit off Amazon for 15 bucks from Liberty Pool Prod, and now have extra lid and case O-rings, and also a left over capsule of lube.
I did this yesterday thanks to your video. The last motor lasted only 3 years. The pool company that replaced our motor via our home waranty didn't replace any seals, that's why my motor siezed up. It's very important to replace the seals. Thanks again Tom
Two thumbs up. As a long-time DIYer, I really appreciated your helpful tips on how to replace the pump motor, especially the clockwise loosening of the impeller nut. I've been tripped up by these type of matters in the past. Thanks a bunch.
Very helpful and detailed including tools needed. Thank you so much you made a headache just a rather simple chore. Made me look like a professional, don't figure! Thanks again!
i had to clean a ring of mesquite leaf stems out of the impeller after my filter basket broke. not having silicon grease at hand, it was challenging to replace the motor after cleaning it. it refused to refit closer than 1/4", just too wide for the collar. so i hammered on a roll of duct tape placed over the end of the motor to get it close enough to then hammer the retainer collar on. took a fair amount of effort but worked alright.
I had that model DuraGlas for about 12 years until last week. It replaced the same model that was in place when I bought the house, when the impeller went bad. The original model had a 0.75 hp motor--the pump that replaced it had a 1 hp motor. That motor was replaced about six years or seven years ago with another one hp motor. Over the last couple of months that motor had been overheating and shutting off for 20 minutes a time, several times a day, until it finally stopped. When I called the installer who replaced the motor previously, to replace the motor again, when I told him the model pump it was, he said, "Oh". I asked him what was wrong and he said because it had been overheating and shutting off for a long time, he thought it was taking a chance that the heat would have distorted the connection area and the new motor might leak at the connection and then I've wasted my money. He said you can't get replacement parts for the DuraGlas if that should go bad, and suggested replacing the whole pump, which is only about 40% more than the motor itself. So he put in a Pentair 349190 1.1 hp Super-Flo. He asked me if I wanted him to get rid of the old pump for me and I said okay--I'm wondering whether there was any value in it for parts or maybe I would work with a new motor, or whatever. The Pentair produces about 25% less pressure in the filter for the same settings, and less suction, it seems, for the cleaner than the DuraGlas. He said the Pentair has greater flow than the DuraGlas, but I question that. It also has about a 2 inch air bubble in the top of the dome with the same settings as before (the DuraGlas did not have air bubbles). He said this is because there's not enough flow to the inlet, creating cavitation, and the Pentair has 2 inch inlet and outlet openings and but the existing piping and DuraGlas was 1.5 inches. But when I turn the pump off that air bubble is still there, so it's not cavitation. If I opened the main drain about halfway to equal distribution to reduce the bubble to about an inch, the cleaner goes too slowly, in my opinion, but he says it doesn't have to go fast to work, and going more slowly cleans better, which I don't believe because it also reduces suction, and covers less of the pool in a day. Also there is only about an inch or tubing after the 90° connection before the inlet, although the manual says there should be a 10 inch straight length of pipe (he showed me photos of the old pump, which also had a short lead to the Inlet after the 90° joint). Opinions on the Internet vary on this, most going by the manufacturer recommendation, other saying the pre-filter basket disrupts any turbulence and creates its own, so it doesn't matter. I don't know if that's contributing to the lower pressure or air bubble. I called Pentair's tech support, and he didn't think it was important and there was no way to actually know whether would affect longevity or whatever. I asked him why they it put in the manual then, and he couldn't give me a good answer except it's a general principle. I also thought maybe, although it's new, the O-ring was allowing a little air to come in through the prefilter lid, but the installer dismissed that idea. I think I might try to lubricate it anyway. Any thoughts on the situation or these points?
Many of the new pumps run at lower RPMs than older pumps for greater energy efficiency. Lower RPMS would mean less pressure and less suction but better energy savings thus saving you money. More suction doesn't mean the pump is necessarily better, it just means it will move more water through the filter in less time, which really isn't an important factor in keeping your pool clean. It doesn't really matter if all of the water in your pool is filtered in 4 hours or 6 hours, but the electricity savings is significant. See if you don't notice a reduction in your electricity usage. The only time suction really matters is when you vacuum the pool and that is controlled by the valve. Also I have air in my filter basket and my filter cleans my pool just fine. Lubricating the o-ring will help the lid slide around it as you tighten it possibly giving you a better seal but as long as the filter is cleaning the pool and not sucking in massive amounts of air, everything will be fine.
@@sunshinetv2419 Thank you for your feedback and explanation. I'll look for a difference in my electric bill. I called a Pinch-A-Penney pool supply store trying to get explanations and talked to someone who seemed to know what he was talking about but he tried to say and the pressure was too high even at the lower pressure from the previous pump, and to try to run it without the filter, and talked about extraneous things, including recommending a variable speed pump would work better. He never answered my question about the difference in performance between the pumps, probably trying to get me to bring something in for a repair, or upsell after the fact--he also said that the air bubble in the pre-filter basket is a problem no matter what size, which I don't believe. I believe the pressure is higher than the 10 or 12 pounds he says it should be because it's only got a 90 ft.² filter with a one hp motor, and my pool, being maybe 20,000 gallons, probably should have a filter twice that size, or at least 150 ft.²--at first I was going to have the filter replaced also, but it cost more than the pump replacement and it's worked fine like this for decades. What annoys me is the installers BS about the new pump having greater flow, and the bubbles and the pressure not being as high is because the pump is starved for water on the inlet side. (PS However, I think the specs indicate that the Pentair has greater GPM than the Dura-Glas, but it's hard to compare because they start with different head specifications). When I open the main drain to where there's equal distribution between the skimmer and the main drain, and the cleaner hardly moves, if at all, the pressure goes up a little but still below where was with the old pump, and there is still a bubble, although it's half the size. But the cleaner won't function that way, so I put it back to where it's just open a little on the main drain, and perhaps I adjusted cleaner hose valve at the skimmer to pull in less water, leaving more suction for the cleaner (The Pool Cleaner, originally by Poolvergnuegen) and now it moves at a respectable pace, although the bubble is back up to about 2 inches. Also the installer was trying to tell me the bubbles are because of cavitation from lack of water through the inlet because the pump pulls more water than the old pump, which isn't true--if it was cavitation the air wouldn't remain after the pump is shut off. Another explanation he gave for the lower suction and pressure is that the inlet and outlet openings of the pumps take 2 inch pipes, while the existing piping is 1.5 inch--also sounds like a another bogus explanation. If it is true then he installed the wrong pump. I cleaned the filter, which was somewhat dirty, and the pressure went from about 18 psi to about 15 psi. So I guess my only remaining question is, does it matter whether there's 10 inches of straight pipe to the pump Inlet instead of about 1 inch after the 90° joint? The installer said it didn't matter, and even the Pentair tech support guy seemed to say it wasn't important, although most online "pool experts" say it is. Would that have any effect on the air bubbles or, more importantly, would it make the pump quieter or last longer with a 10 inch straight inlet pipe (or even 7 inch pipe, which would fit in the existing cage cover)?
Great video. Simple and straight forward, except for one small issue. When you reconnected the ground wire it was turned so the loop was open when tightening the screw. The loop should be installed on the screw so the wire will not loosen when tightening the screw. A very common electrical code mistake.
I usually turn the loop the proper direction however the wires were so rigid and stiff that I decided not to fight it and twist it. I simply hooked it on the way it was facing and tightened it up.
Really good 👏🏽 just one tip. You can pull that band clamp that goes on that seal plate to give you more slack. You want that band really right, over time with constant vibrating from the motor it will completely loosen which may cause a leak or worse burn our bearings out again.
I took a look at the spot in the video that you pointed out and I looked at the video of the old motor and noticed the "springs" on the end of the motor shaft which I am assuming is the governor. Perhaps there is a governor inside the motor. But if there's not a governor what does that mean?
the guy from inyo pools told me that thing with the springs will activate the shut off when conditions are detrimental to the motor i guess too hot or too much current thanks for your video it was very well explained I just might have the balls to try replacing mine when the time comes
Thanks for the video, I have the same problem with the pump....I live in Florida , Pls what is the name of the Business where you bought the motor. Thanks
I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great
Excellent video, great details and nuances (e.g. taking a picture of wiring) Two questions: 1) My current p6e6g-208L motor model k48n2pa105 is acting up. It's only for water features - I run it every day about ~30 minutes to keep black widows and frogs from making a home in the pipes. When it turns on, sometimes it makes an electric buzzing noise and takes 2~5 seconds to actually start spinning. It seems to do this more often / longer in the winter. Rarely it makes a loud squealing sound for a few seconds after spinning up. It's 15+ years old. So, do I just need to do maintenance or replace the pump? I tried doing the maintenance (replacing the ceramic, etc.) on an exact same pump a couple years ago having the same issues and it seized up and eventually died. Thankfully this one was available (having been replaced by an intelliflow for all the filters). 2) If I replace the pump, what do I replace it with? I see pumps that look similar ranging from anywhere around $200-250 to as high as $700. This pump is 2 HP, 1.5 KW, 230 V, 3450 RPM, Phase 1, 60 Hz, Max Load Amps 11.2, Code H, SF 1.3.
I am by no means an expert, but I do know you can replace just the motor with one having the same specs.. if you replace the pump and motor you should buy them together. The pump is engineered for a specific size motor. I purchased my electric motor from an electric motor supply house in my area. You can do the same or you can order one online... I can't tell you which website because I really don't know. If you get an energy saving pump be certain it has the right amount of flow you need, especially if it's for water features. Those usually run much much slower and therefore pump much less water. Also be sure the cost justifies the savings. Figure how long it will take to get the extra money back that you spend on an energy saving unit up front. I think age as well as use will wear out the bearings especially if the unit is outside and uncovered. 15 years seems like a good run.
Hi.... I decided to change the motor, the quotes I received from the pool tech , where to high,,,,and they want to install, what they want to sell....the question is: I am changing the motor....are this motors running on 230 or 115....bought the motor from A &A orlando.......Thanks for your help.
At 10:31 you placed a clamp around the housing. What's the exact name for that housing? I am replacing my Century 3/4 hp pump and need the housing as well. I can't find anything on the internet that resembles that housing. There's no markings on my existing housing. Thanks.
awesome video. where did you get all the gaskets? mine has the same. design but my motor is discontunued and i dont dont where to find the parts: gasket shaft etc
@Sunshine TV UPDATE: Well, after tearing my hair our trying to figure this out, I called Leslie's Pools and scheduled a repair person to come out. When he came, I told him the issue I was having. I told him I will be inside and to lt me know when he needs me. Although I would have loved to see what he was doing, I don't like to hang around techs, most don't want t customer to breathe down their necks.... Anyway, he came to my door within 20 seconds. It seems that I had the voltage selector on the wrong setting! It was a tiny selector that I could barely see because it was dark in the pool room!! LOL!!! I felt like an idiot! Oh well! No charge, thank God! I did offer him a bottle of water though!! :) Anyway, thank you for all your help! Now if someone ever asks you the same question, make sure you tell them the motor should be on 220!! LOL!! :)
My impeller does not have the stem that the one you installed has; am having a hard time figuring out how the spring seal attaches to it; any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
At 6:35 he touches the white ceramic part of the shaft seal while explaining that the professionals at the supply store told him not to touch it. Lol. Don't touch the ceramic part of the shaft seal.
I replaced my screaming Sta Rite Dura Glas pump motor today. Thanks to your detailed video, I was able to remove the old motor fairly easily. I put a variable speed motor VGreen in and everything fits. Believe it or not, the hardest part was to reconnect the grounding line to the pump. The new motor didn't consider the ground line has multiple equipment connected (two pumps and one heater). I had to modify the connector. The pump is running at low speed now and is so quiet. Have you considered variable speed pump?
I considered it, but for me I didn't think I would save enough to justify the upfront cost... I thought it would take several years before I saw the returns of a more efficient motor...let me know if you notice a considerable savings..
Sure. It'll be a while. The price difference was $230 between single speed motor ($173) and variable speed motor ($403). The benefit I get is to be able to run pump at low speed for longer time.
After seal replacement is it supposed to seal 100%. I don't see water dripping, but if I feel with my hand after it runs for over 15 minutes I can feel some water seeping.
If you are talking about the large o-ring housing seal, then yes there shouldn't be any dripping. If there is I would first try tightening the band, if that doesn't work then take it apart, clean the ring and the trough it sits in, lubricate it with silicone then re-assemble.
Just an update. The area around the large clamp would still weep after about 2 hours of running. I ended up buying an OEM gasket with was squared off and thicker instead of rounded. This finally resolved the issue and I don’t even have to tighten the clamp down as much.
Could be the large seal under the stainless band. Be sure it is in working order, that there is no debris on it and there is silicone lubricant on it. It could also be the shaft seal gone bad or it could be the small drain valve at the bottom not sealing. Or it could be the 2" pipe connection not screwed in tight or not glued properly.
i did all this today idk why im watching this....i was like dude why take the bolts off now...you're still going to have to take that compression clamp off
Please help....I replaced my old AO Smith with a Jacuzzi brand one from Leslie's Pool. Not my choice or decision as I am only an apartment building manager. I am having trouble as the new one when I turn it on it acts like it wants to fully pressurize and the dial climbs a little bit and air bubbles come out in the pool, but then something "gives out," the motor goes very quiet and the dial sinks back down. What did I do wrong? New gasket, seals and proper lube all done!
The system probably needs to be primed. When the motor is replaced all of the water goes out of the pipes and it has a difficult time creating a vacuum to suck the water. Try taking the cap off of the pump filter basket and filling it with water like I did at the end of the video. My lines took several gallons of water to fill to get the pump to prime and work again... good luck.
did you have to take the governor off the old motor and put in on the new one I didnt see it on the new one when you secured the shaft when putting on the impeller on the new motor
Well, it wants to pressurize, it starts to pressurize but then the needle on the gauge slumps back down and the motor sounds like it's on some sort of standby mode. And I still get shocked if I touch any of that system even the PVC piping!
Sounds like its not properly grounded... have your installer come take a look at it... also you need to install the gasket between the two parts of the housing.
@@sunshinetv2419 I really appreciate you taking the time out on a Sunday to reply back and try to help me. The o-ring between the two halves I installed. The pressurization problem is the same. I actually am the installer. I removed the old one using your video. Last year I replaced a motor at another complex but it was easier and came off without a hitch. It is also a smaller motor. This one was an old AO Smith. I've been manager here 6 years and never had a problem until recently. The old manager was manager 11 years and she said motor was never replaced during her tenure so I know the old one was at least 17 years old. I really wanted another AO Smith but Leslie's Pools of course sold me their Jacuzzi brand motor, i had no choice. The old motor all three wires including ground went through the electrical port and tightened by a Romex. This one only the black and white wires go through the port and the ground, which is a bare copper wire, according to the diagram on motor gets tightened to a screw outside the motor on the motor body. This complicates things for me since the ground would not reach if a did this so I attached all three not going through the port but removing the cover and going under the cover. It's the only way all 3 would attach. Does the Romex act as some sort of ground also besides the bare copper wire?
@@lolaflores5388 Its difficult to understand what is happening without seeing it. If you are still getting shocked you may want to have an electrician come out and take a look. Be sure the wires wrapped around the screws don't have any loose or frayed wires touching the other screw. I have a ground on the unit and a three wired ground. Not sure if it needs both but I would say the more grounds the better... I am by no means an expert. You should talk to a licensed electrician.
Getting ready to do this myself. Same pump. Do you know what is the water based lubricant used for the inner shaft seal you mentioned at 6:23? Thanks for your video. It gave me the confidence to do this myself. It will save me a lot of money! Assuming I do it right.. ;)
I have the exact same setup as this. Same motor #. Pump looks identical. I need a pump not a motor but I can't find any info on the pump anywhere. No nameplate, no model #.
There is a nameplate on top of mine... here is what it says- Model P4EA6G-188L Code 1F02U Sta-Rite Ind., Inc. Delavan, WI. I looked it up here is a website with parts: www.pumpagents.com/partpages/StaRitePumps/P4EA6G-188L.html
Ha! I typed "water based lubricant" in google to search for the lubricant you mentioned at 6:23 and got quite a bit of education by the sex industry! Seriously though, would KY work for the inner shaft seal? :) Great Video! Very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
Ha! Even though it's known as the "shaft" seal I wouldn't recommend KY.... it breaks down very quickly in the presence of water... in my experience if you get the equipment warmed up enough you don't necessarily need KY. ; )
I went to my local pool store and they hooked me up with the right ones. I took the housing down to them and they removed the old spring seal and installed the new one and added the lubrication. They also got me all of the other seals that were needed as well. I wanted to make sure I got the exact ones I needed so I went to the professionals.
Very good video.👍 I'm trying to decide if I feel comfortable about replacing the motor on my Dura Glas PUMP, which looks very similar to your pump. I'm wondering if the DuraGlas has a left-handed threaded bolt as well- it was good that you pointed that out. Lastly, how many o-rings did you replace? I am wondering if I can just replace the shaft seal on mine, or if I need to replace another o-ring (s) as well. PS is THAT the impeller @ 3:57 ?
Thanks... depending on which way your motor spins will determine if you have a left handed thread. I'm not certain if they are all the same but I would assume they are. I replaced the one o-ring around the impeller housing (the white plastic piece) and the I put a new one on the pump housing which was the 12" one. I would replace the seals while you have it apart, they are cheap and if they fail shortly in the future you'll have to tear it all down again. That is the impeller housing at 3:57 the impeller itself is at 5:40. Good luck
I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great.
The rubber gasket was on the original motor in the same place and I simply put it back on the new motor.... I'm not sure of its size- it may be possible to get one at a pool supply store if yours is missing
I would pop the stainless clamp and check the impeller to see if it spins freely... also double check your wiring to see if it is connected properly, and that there are no fray wires touching stuff... that's all I can think of from here.
Also check your diffuser's hub. Mine was quite rusty and rough. I had to sand off rust and applied grease. Before removing rusts, I turned motor by hand and I can hear grinding sound between diffuser and impeller. After sanding and lube, it was much better. I am in process of ordering a new diffuser (~$25). Second thing was obvious: you did prime the pump, right?
I was called out on this in another comment so here's my reasoning.....It's not that I don't understand the way a wire should be wrapped around a screw- the wire was already shaped like that and was super difficult to rebend to wrap the other way. I was also afraid if I did try that, the end would snap off and make the wire too short then I'd have to recut and strip all 3 wires, and maybe even cut the conduit- which at the time I did not want to take the chance of and have to do all the extra work. So I simply put the wire back on the screw in the shape it was bent and tightened it up... and as anyone can see, even an electrician, that it worked just fine. I do appreciate your comment though... and thanks for watching with such attention to detail that you noticed this... I do hope the video helped and perhaps everyone watching should know the proper way to wrap a wire around a screw and tighten it but that's another video
I lost my husband to cancer and I have had to take over the maintenance on the pool with limited income. This video allowed me to replace some parts without having to pay a repair man. Thank you so much!!!!!
So sorry to hear about your loss... cancer has taken my first cousin and is now getting the best of my uncle... I'm glad I could help you out...
Excellent and smooth explanation of how to replace a pool pump
Way better instructions than the guys who get paid for it.
This is theabsolutely the best Utube DIY video I have ever seen. Absolutely brilliant. Shows everything you need to know, especially discharging the capacitor so the person does not get shocked. I learned this from my father 50 years ago. Great Job!!
Well thank you very much!
Yeah, great vid. But he missed the other capacitor which is on the side and repeated some misinformation the pool store spewed at him about the shaft seal.
The reason you don't touch the seal is because having anything on the ceramic will cause it to fail very quickly. Oil from your hands will generate heat and cause failure.
Fantastic job. Especially the speed-up of the camera replay during the bolt-tightening sequences. Very thorough, you covered everything. I just spent $550 on this same job. I watched what the tech did to learn and to assess whether I could do it myself, then I watched your video here, and next time I pretty much know I can do the job myself. The new pump motor only cost $230 on ebay so I will save a lot of money next time - thank you kindly for your excellent video!
I just used your vid to help me replace the shaft seals. It works great now. Thank you so much. The pool guys wanted 250. I got it done for the price of the parts. Ha! I saved 220 bucks.
Thank you- exactly what I needed to know on removing the impeller. Great vid, perfect explanation and demo.
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Very nicely done. Covered all the minute details and good video shots. My pump that died after 10 years of service needs to be replaced and the new one is coming tonight.
Wonderful video. I had the pump seal fail and this gave me the confidence to take it apart (I was guessing as to how it came apart until I found this) and successfully replace the seals. Thank you!
I'll watch someone's video a bunch of times before I tackle a job and by then I know exactly what to expect and I can go in with confidence as well. Great to see and hear how this video is helping out.
THANKS a Million for this. Extremely helpful. Just what I needed as my new motor arrived today. 👏👏
Great Video, knowing the shaft nut is left handed and the impeller right handed saved me a disaster. FYI, you only need to remove the capacitor, to insert a small wrench on the shaft for back up. NOTE: After putting the seal and O-ring kit on my StaRite Maxiglass II, I had a drip coming from under the pump band. I was dumbfounded. Logic tells me if there is a drip from there, it has to be the large O-ring. After wasting an hour cracking the case 3 times and checking to make sure the O-ring was in the groove, I finally noticed a tiny hole in the bottom of the case. I then noticed that hole led to a drain plug located right next to the case band. Low and behold, I unscrewed the drain plug and it had a cracked O-Ring. Replaced the plug O-ring and voila, no drip! After putting a mirror under the pump body and noticing the calcium deposits running from the drain plug to the bottom of the case band, I am now almost positive that tiny O-ring was the only bad seal on the pump. I don't feel too bad tho, since I ordered the kit off Amazon for 15 bucks from Liberty Pool Prod, and now have extra lid and case O-rings, and also a left over capsule of lube.
I did this yesterday thanks to your video. The last motor lasted only 3 years. The pool company that replaced our motor via our home waranty didn't replace any seals, that's why my motor siezed up. It's very important to replace the seals.
Thanks again Tom
Glad I could help! Sometimes, if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself!
Very useful, informative and easy to understand. Much appreciated! Robert I.
really helpful so I will know if my poolman really knows what he's doing to replace my pool motor correctly. well done. thanks.
Two thumbs up. As a long-time DIYer, I really appreciated your helpful tips on how to replace the pump motor, especially the clockwise loosening of the impeller nut. I've been tripped up by these type of matters in the past. Thanks a bunch.
I'm a big DIYer myself- I'm trying to film my repairs as I do them- Glad I could help
Awesome information, helped me a lot. Thank you
Excellent video! Your very well detailed step by step instructions helped me replace my old motor. Thanks for the video and for the savings!
Happy to help- you're welcome
Excellent video. Very clear and concise… and very helpful. Thank you!
A Big Thanks for message ........I will get as soon as tomorrow on getting a new motor....Thanks
What a fantastic video. Production value was great. Replacing a pump tomorrow and this will help hopefully. Thank you! Seriously very good!
Just what Neil reid said. Just what I needed to know. Thank you.
Great video - thanks for the step by step - just replaced my 28 yr old motor (Hope the new ones last as long but I won't get my hopes up lol)
Excellent video. Thank you for taking time to video this as it will be very helpful for many! Thanks!
Great video. You saved me so much time. Thank you so much for making this video.
Very helpful and detailed including tools needed. Thank you so much you made a headache just a rather simple chore. Made me look like a professional, don't figure! Thanks again!
Glad this video helped. Did you get your motor from a pool supply house or from somewhere else?
Good job with ground usually people do that part last and its the most important part
Exactly what I needs after my pump died last night. Same model#etc. Many thanks
i had to clean a ring of mesquite leaf stems out of the impeller after my filter basket broke. not having silicon grease at hand, it was challenging to replace the motor after cleaning it.
it refused to refit closer than 1/4", just too wide for the collar. so i hammered on a roll of duct tape placed over the end of the motor to get it close enough to then hammer the retainer collar on. took a fair amount of effort but worked alright.
For any DYIers searching, this pump looks similar to the Pentair Waterfall and Challenger pumps
I had that model DuraGlas for about 12 years until last week. It replaced the same model that was in place when I bought the house, when the impeller went bad. The original model had a 0.75 hp motor--the pump that replaced it had a 1 hp motor. That motor was replaced about six years or seven years ago with another one hp motor. Over the last couple of months that motor had been overheating and shutting off for 20 minutes a time, several times a day, until it finally stopped. When I called the installer who replaced the motor previously, to replace the motor again, when I told him the model pump it was, he said, "Oh". I asked him what was wrong and he said because it had been overheating and shutting off for a long time, he thought it was taking a chance that the heat would have distorted the connection area and the new motor might leak at the connection and then I've wasted my money. He said you can't get replacement parts for the DuraGlas if that should go bad, and suggested replacing the whole pump, which is only about 40% more than the motor itself. So he put in a Pentair 349190 1.1 hp Super-Flo. He asked me if I wanted him to get rid of the old pump for me and I said okay--I'm wondering whether there was any value in it for parts or maybe I would work with a new motor, or whatever. The Pentair produces about 25% less pressure in the filter for the same settings, and less suction, it seems, for the cleaner than the DuraGlas. He said the Pentair has greater flow than the DuraGlas, but I question that. It also has about a 2 inch air bubble in the top of the dome with the same settings as before (the DuraGlas did not have air bubbles). He said this is because there's not enough flow to the inlet, creating cavitation, and the Pentair has 2 inch inlet and outlet openings and but the existing piping and DuraGlas was 1.5 inches. But when I turn the pump off that air bubble is still there, so it's not cavitation. If I opened the main drain about halfway to equal distribution to reduce the bubble to about an inch, the cleaner goes too slowly, in my opinion, but he says it doesn't have to go fast to work, and going more slowly cleans better, which I don't believe because it also reduces suction, and covers less of the pool in a day. Also there is only about an inch or tubing after the 90° connection before the inlet, although the manual says there should be a 10 inch straight length of pipe (he showed me photos of the old pump, which also had a short lead to the Inlet after the 90° joint). Opinions on the Internet vary on this, most going by the manufacturer recommendation, other saying the pre-filter basket disrupts any turbulence and creates its own, so it doesn't matter. I don't know if that's contributing to the lower pressure or air bubble. I called Pentair's tech support, and he didn't think it was important and there was no way to actually know whether would affect longevity or whatever. I asked him why they it put in the manual then, and he couldn't give me a good answer except it's a general principle. I also thought maybe, although it's new, the O-ring was allowing a little air to come in through the prefilter lid, but the installer dismissed that idea. I think I might try to lubricate it anyway. Any thoughts on the situation or these points?
Many of the new pumps run at lower RPMs than older pumps for greater energy efficiency. Lower RPMS would mean less pressure and less suction but better energy savings thus saving you money. More suction doesn't mean the pump is necessarily better, it just means it will move more water through the filter in less time, which really isn't an important factor in keeping your pool clean. It doesn't really matter if all of the water in your pool is filtered in 4 hours or 6 hours, but the electricity savings is significant. See if you don't notice a reduction in your electricity usage. The only time suction really matters is when you vacuum the pool and that is controlled by the valve. Also I have air in my filter basket and my filter cleans my pool just fine. Lubricating the o-ring will help the lid slide around it as you tighten it possibly giving you a better seal but as long as the filter is cleaning the pool and not sucking in massive amounts of air, everything will be fine.
@@sunshinetv2419 Thank you for your feedback and explanation. I'll look for a difference in my electric bill. I called a Pinch-A-Penney pool supply store trying to get explanations and talked to someone who seemed to know what he was talking about but he tried to say and the pressure was too high even at the lower pressure from the previous pump, and to try to run it without the filter, and talked about extraneous things, including recommending a variable speed pump would work better. He never answered my question about the difference in performance between the pumps, probably trying to get me to bring something in for a repair, or upsell after the fact--he also said that the air bubble in the pre-filter basket is a problem no matter what size, which I don't believe. I believe the pressure is higher than the 10 or 12 pounds he says it should be because it's only got a 90 ft.² filter with a one hp motor, and my pool, being maybe 20,000 gallons, probably should have a filter twice that size, or at least 150 ft.²--at first I was going to have the filter replaced also, but it cost more than the pump replacement and it's worked fine like this for decades.
What annoys me is the installers BS about the new pump having greater flow, and the bubbles and the pressure not being as high is because the pump is starved for water on the inlet side. (PS However, I think the specs indicate that the Pentair has greater GPM than the Dura-Glas, but it's hard to compare because they start with different head specifications). When I open the main drain to where there's equal distribution between the skimmer and the main drain, and the cleaner hardly moves, if at all, the pressure goes up a little but still below where was with the old pump, and there is still a bubble, although it's half the size. But the cleaner won't function that way, so I put it back to where it's just open a little on the main drain, and perhaps I adjusted cleaner hose valve at the skimmer to pull in less water, leaving more suction for the cleaner (The Pool Cleaner, originally by Poolvergnuegen) and now it moves at a respectable pace, although the bubble is back up to about 2 inches. Also the installer was trying to tell me the bubbles are because of cavitation from lack of water through the inlet because the pump pulls more water than the old pump, which isn't true--if it was cavitation the air wouldn't remain after the pump is shut off. Another explanation he gave for the lower suction and pressure is that the inlet and outlet openings of the pumps take 2 inch pipes, while the existing piping is 1.5 inch--also sounds like a another bogus explanation. If it is true then he installed the wrong pump.
I cleaned the filter, which was somewhat dirty, and the pressure went from about 18 psi to about 15 psi.
So I guess my only remaining question is, does it matter whether there's 10 inches of straight pipe to the pump Inlet instead of about 1 inch after the 90° joint? The installer said it didn't matter, and even the Pentair tech support guy seemed to say it wasn't important, although most online "pool experts" say it is. Would that have any effect on the air bubbles or, more importantly, would it make the pump quieter or last longer with a 10 inch straight inlet pipe (or even 7 inch pipe, which would fit in the existing cage cover)?
Searched alot of videos and yours was very simple and easy to follow. Thanks!
Thanks! It's great getting the feedback
Great video. Simple and straight forward, except for one small issue. When you reconnected the ground wire it was turned so the loop was open when tightening the screw. The loop should be installed on the screw so the wire will not loosen when tightening the screw. A very common electrical code mistake.
I usually turn the loop the proper direction however the wires were so rigid and stiff that I decided not to fight it and twist it. I simply hooked it on the way it was facing and tightened it up.
Thanks for your reply, but guess what? An electrical inspector will fail this installation (it happens!). Be safe always.
@@jamesa.3299What electrical inspector is going to take your pool pump motor apart?
Thanks for the video bud, saved me a couple hundred bucks off what my pool guy quoted me. I owe ya a beer next time you're in Clearwater, cheers!
Now that's the kind of monetizing I can appreciate!
Brilliant - thank you - so nice to know what to expect in advance of doing the job ...
Great informative video. I was able to change my motor with zero experience
So glad my video could help out! Thanks for commenting!
Really good 👏🏽 just one tip. You can pull that band clamp that goes on that seal plate to give you more slack. You want that band really right, over time with constant vibrating from the motor it will completely loosen which may cause a leak or worse burn our bearings out again.
joseph gonzalez is
The video quality is fantastic.
Excellent video!
thanks a lot i have the same pumps. This saves me a lot of money
Thanks for your tutorial!
Very helpful and useful. We'll done!
Very helpful video! Thanks for posting
AWESOME, THANK YOU!!!
Nice. Can you do a video on how to replace the pump lid O-ring.
thanks for replying back I was referring to video at 7:58 I dont see any governor on the shaft Thanks
I took a look at the spot in the video that you pointed out and I looked at the video of the old motor and noticed the "springs" on the end of the motor shaft which I am assuming is the governor. Perhaps there is a governor inside the motor. But if there's not a governor what does that mean?
the guy from inyo pools told me that thing with the springs will activate the shut off when conditions are detrimental to the motor i guess too hot or too much current thanks for your video it was very well explained I just might have the balls to try replacing mine when the time comes
Thanks for the video, I have the same problem with the pump....I live in Florida , Pls what is the name of the Business where you bought the motor. Thanks
I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great
Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
Yes outstanding job...
Excellent video, great details and nuances (e.g. taking a picture of wiring)
Two questions:
1) My current p6e6g-208L motor model k48n2pa105 is acting up. It's only for water features - I run it every day about ~30 minutes to keep black widows and frogs from making a home in the pipes. When it turns on, sometimes it makes an electric buzzing noise and takes 2~5 seconds to actually start spinning. It seems to do this more often / longer in the winter. Rarely it makes a loud squealing sound for a few seconds after spinning up. It's 15+ years old. So, do I just need to do maintenance or replace the pump? I tried doing the maintenance (replacing the ceramic, etc.) on an exact same pump a couple years ago having the same issues and it seized up and eventually died. Thankfully this one was available (having been replaced by an intelliflow for all the filters).
2) If I replace the pump, what do I replace it with? I see pumps that look similar ranging from anywhere around $200-250 to as high as $700. This pump is 2 HP, 1.5 KW, 230 V, 3450 RPM, Phase 1, 60 Hz, Max Load Amps 11.2, Code H, SF 1.3.
I am by no means an expert, but I do know you can replace just the motor with one having the same specs.. if you replace the pump and motor you should buy them together. The pump is engineered for a specific size motor. I purchased my electric motor from an electric motor supply house in my area. You can do the same or you can order one online... I can't tell you which website because I really don't know. If you get an energy saving pump be certain it has the right amount of flow you need, especially if it's for water features. Those usually run much much slower and therefore pump much less water. Also be sure the cost justifies the savings. Figure how long it will take to get the extra money back that you spend on an energy saving unit up front. I think age as well as use will wear out the bearings especially if the unit is outside and uncovered. 15 years seems like a good run.
very well done!
Nice. I think the bearings are shot in my pump. It makes a nasty noise while it runs.
Did the new motor not have a pressure switch inside like the one you removed from the old motor?
Thanks very helpful
Great video; It helped a lot. Thanks.
Hi.... I decided to change the motor, the quotes I received from the pool tech , where to high,,,,and they want to install, what they want to sell....the question is: I am changing the motor....are this motors running on 230 or 115....bought the motor from A &A orlando.......Thanks for your help.
its 220v... just look on the motor
1:40 3/8 nut driver works better then a flathead screwdriver
At 10:31 you placed a clamp around the housing. What's the exact name for that housing? I am replacing my Century 3/4 hp pump and need the housing as well. I can't find anything on the internet that resembles that housing. There's no markings on my existing housing. Thanks.
awesome video. where did you get all the gaskets? mine has the same. design but my motor is discontunued and i dont dont where to find the parts: gasket shaft etc
@Sunshine TV UPDATE: Well, after tearing my hair our trying to figure this out, I called Leslie's Pools and scheduled a repair person to come out. When he came, I told him the issue I was having. I told him I will be inside and to lt me know when he needs me. Although I would have loved to see what he was doing, I don't like to hang around techs, most don't want t customer to breathe down their necks.... Anyway, he came to my door within 20 seconds. It seems that I had the voltage selector on the wrong setting! It was a tiny selector that I could barely see because it was dark in the pool room!! LOL!!! I felt like an idiot! Oh well! No charge, thank God! I did offer him a bottle of water though!! :) Anyway, thank you for all your help! Now if someone ever asks you the same question, make sure you tell them the motor should be on 220!! LOL!! :)
Glad you got it figured out and that it was something simple...
Thanks much.
My impeller does not have the stem that the one you installed has; am having a hard time figuring out how the spring seal attaches to it; any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
At 6:35 he touches the white ceramic part of the shaft seal while explaining that the professionals at the supply store told him not to touch it. Lol. Don't touch the ceramic part of the shaft seal.
If you have an electric motor business near you, they can rebuild the motor with new bearings for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
Thanks..........very informative.
I replaced my screaming Sta Rite Dura Glas pump motor today. Thanks to your detailed video, I was able to remove the old motor fairly easily. I put a variable speed motor VGreen in and everything fits. Believe it or not, the hardest part was to reconnect the grounding line to the pump. The new motor didn't consider the ground line has multiple equipment connected (two pumps and one heater). I had to modify the connector. The pump is running at low speed now and is so quiet. Have you considered variable speed pump?
I considered it, but for me I didn't think I would save enough to justify the upfront cost... I thought it would take several years before I saw the returns of a more efficient motor...let me know if you notice a considerable savings..
Sure. It'll be a while. The price difference was $230 between single speed motor ($173) and variable speed motor ($403). The benefit I get is to be able to run pump at low speed for longer time.
Just a heads up, you don't actually need to remove the 4 bolts on the outside to be able to take off the motor.
I know this comment is 2 years old but yes you do.
😊 thanks
Where is the other half of the mechanical seal?
At 8:40 is not a housing but a diffuser
After seal replacement is it supposed to seal 100%. I don't see water dripping, but if I feel with my hand after it runs for over 15 minutes I can feel some water seeping.
If you are talking about the large o-ring housing seal, then yes there shouldn't be any dripping. If there is I would first try tightening the band, if that doesn't work then take it apart, clean the ring and the trough it sits in, lubricate it with silicone then re-assemble.
@@sunshinetv2419 It was a slight weep from the area with the large clamp. A few more turns and all is dry. Thank you for your input.
Just an update. The area around the large clamp would still weep after about 2 hours of running. I ended up buying an OEM gasket with was squared off and thicker instead of rounded. This finally resolved the issue and I don’t even have to tighten the clamp down as much.
I keep having water leak from bottom but can't see why it is leaking
Could be the large seal under the stainless band. Be sure it is in working order, that there is no debris on it and there is silicone lubricant on it. It could also be the shaft seal gone bad or it could be the small drain valve at the bottom not sealing. Or it could be the 2" pipe connection not screwed in tight or not glued properly.
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?
i did all this today idk why im watching this....i was like dude why take the bolts off now...you're still going to have to take that compression clamp off
Please help....I replaced my old AO Smith with a Jacuzzi brand one from Leslie's Pool. Not my choice or decision as I am only an apartment building manager. I am having trouble as the new one when I turn it on it acts like it wants to fully pressurize and the dial climbs a little bit and air bubbles come out in the pool, but then something "gives out," the motor goes very quiet and the dial sinks back down. What did I do wrong? New gasket, seals and proper lube all done!
The system probably needs to be primed. When the motor is replaced all of the water goes out of the pipes and it has a difficult time creating a vacuum to suck the water. Try taking the cap off of the pump filter basket and filling it with water like I did at the end of the video. My lines took several gallons of water to fill to get the pump to prime and work again... good luck.
Now you just have to add about 700 gallons of water to your pool.
Nice, yeah those damm capacitor has scare me lots of time, i still dont get use to it, lol.
did you have to take the governor off the old motor and put in on the new one I didnt see it on the new one when you secured the shaft when putting on the impeller on the new motor
I didn't have to take anything off the old motor and put it on the new one... perhaps the electronics are just smaller on the new motor
Well, it wants to pressurize, it starts to pressurize but then the needle on the gauge slumps back down and the motor sounds like it's on some sort of standby mode. And I still get shocked if I touch any of that system even the PVC piping!
Sounds like its not properly grounded... have your installer come take a look at it... also you need to install the gasket between the two parts of the housing.
@@sunshinetv2419 I really appreciate you taking the time out on a Sunday to reply back and try to help me. The o-ring between the two halves I installed. The pressurization problem is the same. I actually am the installer. I removed the old one using your video.
Last year I replaced a motor at another complex but it was easier and came off without a hitch. It is also a smaller motor. This one was an old AO Smith. I've been manager here 6 years and never had a problem until recently. The old manager was manager 11 years and she said motor was never replaced during her tenure so I know the old one was at least 17 years old. I really wanted another AO Smith but Leslie's Pools of course sold me their Jacuzzi brand motor, i had no choice.
The old motor all three wires including ground went through the electrical port and tightened by a Romex. This one only the black and white wires go through the port and the ground, which is a bare copper wire, according to the diagram on motor gets tightened to a screw outside the motor on the motor body. This complicates things for me since the ground would not reach if a did this so I attached all three not going through the port but removing the cover and going under the cover. It's the only way all 3 would attach. Does the Romex act as some sort of ground also besides the bare copper wire?
@@lolaflores5388 Its difficult to understand what is happening without seeing it. If you are still getting shocked you may want to have an electrician come out and take a look. Be sure the wires wrapped around the screws don't have any loose or frayed wires touching the other screw. I have a ground on the unit and a three wired ground. Not sure if it needs both but I would say the more grounds the better... I am by no means an expert. You should talk to a licensed electrician.
Getting ready to do this myself. Same pump. Do you know what is the water based lubricant used for the inner shaft seal you mentioned at 6:23? Thanks for your video. It gave me the confidence to do this myself. It will save me a lot of money! Assuming I do it right.. ;)
I'll have to find out an post it
I have the exact same setup as this. Same motor #. Pump looks identical. I need a pump not a motor but I can't find any info on the pump anywhere. No nameplate, no model #.
There is a nameplate on top of mine... here is what it says- Model P4EA6G-188L Code 1F02U Sta-Rite Ind., Inc. Delavan, WI. I looked it up here is a website with parts: www.pumpagents.com/partpages/StaRitePumps/P4EA6G-188L.html
@@sunshinetv2419 Wonderful! Thank you very much
Bosss mines doesnt have a bolt inside impeller it has a white part im clueless i need help
Ok i got it it turns counter clock wise i unscrewed mines
Ha! I typed "water based lubricant" in google to search for the lubricant you mentioned at 6:23 and got quite a bit of education by the sex industry! Seriously though, would KY work for the inner shaft seal? :) Great Video! Very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
Ha! Even though it's known as the "shaft" seal I wouldn't recommend KY.... it breaks down very quickly in the presence of water... in my experience if you get the equipment warmed up enough you don't necessarily need KY. ; )
What seals where used? Do you have links to them?
I went to my local pool store and they hooked me up with the right ones. I took the housing down to them and they removed the old spring seal and installed the new one and added the lubrication. They also got me all of the other seals that were needed as well. I wanted to make sure I got the exact ones I needed so I went to the professionals.
What this pump model?
Very good video.👍 I'm trying to decide if I feel comfortable about replacing the motor on my Dura Glas PUMP, which looks very similar to your pump. I'm wondering if the DuraGlas has a left-handed threaded bolt as well- it was good that you pointed that out. Lastly, how many o-rings did you replace? I am wondering if I can just replace the shaft seal on mine, or if I need to replace another o-ring (s) as well.
PS is THAT the impeller @ 3:57 ?
Thanks... depending on which way your motor spins will determine if you have a left handed thread. I'm not certain if they are all the same but I would assume they are. I replaced the one o-ring around the impeller housing (the white plastic piece) and the I put a new one on the pump housing which was the 12" one. I would replace the seals while you have it apart, they are cheap and if they fail shortly in the future you'll have to tear it all down again. That is the impeller housing at 3:57 the impeller itself is at 5:40. Good luck
@@sunshinetv2419
Thanks for the info - I appreciate it. Your pump looks SO MUCH like my DuraGlas PUMP that it's scary!!😁
Thanks again.
Where and what motor did you replace with
I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great.
"Apr 20" hahaha excellent video :)
Thank you! At 7:10 you put a rubber gasket on. Where did you get that? What size?
The rubber gasket was on the original motor in the same place and I simply put it back on the new motor.... I'm not sure of its size- it may be possible to get one at a pool supply store if yours is missing
There is no need to discharge the capacitor. But its better to do it anyways.
I just put a motor on and when I flipped the switch it acted like it was in a bind. Grind like sound and then nothing . Any ideas
I would pop the stainless clamp and check the impeller to see if it spins freely... also double check your wiring to see if it is connected properly, and that there are no fray wires touching stuff... that's all I can think of from here.
Also check your diffuser's hub. Mine was quite rusty and rough. I had to sand off rust and applied grease. Before removing rusts, I turned motor by hand and I can hear grinding sound between diffuser and impeller. After sanding and lube, it was much better. I am in process of ordering a new diffuser (~$25). Second thing was obvious: you did prime the pump, right?
Hallo sir can i ge your contact noumbet? I want to ask something about pool pump machine.
Solid D+
i can see you are not a electrician the way you wrap the ground wire around the motor grounding screw .
I was called out on this in another comment so here's my reasoning.....It's not that I don't understand the way a wire should be wrapped around a screw- the wire was already shaped like that and was super difficult to rebend to wrap the other way. I was also afraid if I did try that, the end would snap off and make the wire too short then I'd have to recut and strip all 3 wires, and maybe even cut the conduit- which at the time I did not want to take the chance of and have to do all the extra work. So I simply put the wire back on the screw in the shape it was bent and tightened it up... and as anyone can see, even an electrician, that it worked just fine. I do appreciate your comment though... and thanks for watching with such attention to detail that you noticed this... I do hope the video helped and perhaps everyone watching should know the proper way to wrap a wire around a screw and tighten it but that's another video
Do you know where I can get the O-ring for that pump housing and do you have the Part number for that O-ring so I can order one