Thanks a million. I found several videos for the P1349 code but yours was by far the best. Great video to show the exact location and the details of the replacement. Great job!!
I have watched a lot of Lexus DIY repair vids. You are very detailed on how to take things out and what to watch out for BEFORE taking things out! That's great! I have an RX350 and taking out the radiator (easier access than the VVT soleniod) was enough of a pain! Small tip: A pocket red laser light can be used to point out the exact bolt/nut in hard to reach area.
I never got to comments on this, but this video saved me so much money last month. I learned so much and could have never followed this without your instructions, thank you thank you thank you!!!
Helped me out allot, thanks for your time. I changed both solenoids and cleaned both of the screens and the car now runs perfect. I had a total of 7 different codes from the defective Solenoid. I know have 0 codes and no check engine light. 2001 Toyota Avalon 3.0 v6 190,000 miles.
Good job bro. Very clear and descriptive. Gives me the confidence to tackle this issue myself instead of paying dealership/shop an arm and a leg to do the same thing. I’m having the same issue with my whip. Will replace these two guys as soon as I get a chance. Thanks.
Dude thank you so much!!!! I was firing off questions in my head that I didn’t think would be answered in the video but you never failed to thoroughly answer them all.
Thanks. This is helpful for someone unfamiliar with their engine. You make clear how to replace. For future videos it will be helpful if you explain your diagnosis. E.g. did you test for resistance? Apply power to see if solenoid functions. Sometimes that code is triggered because of gelled oil and cleaning the oil passages in the head is the only solution (spraying a little solvent followed by compressed air, repeating a few times). Of couse the valve itself is more likely the cause if the engine has been well maintained.
Video was very informing of the process, EXCEPT you did not show or tell how to remove the plastic connector housing for the wires! This was the only part I needed to see. Why not tell do you pinch the tang on the connect housing with screwdriver or needle nose? Especially if you cannot video it in the tight space. I'm trying to figure out do I "pinch the tang or pry it away from the plastic housing to get the connector out? You did say you man handled the other one with you index finger but that is a vague explanation of the proper process. Thanks, Frank
I believe I just used my fingers to pinch the tab down and managed to pull the connector off. It may be different for everyone depending on how corroded it is. If you cant get the connector off by hand, then try using a small flat head to gently help lift the tab up to free the connector. If you can get the tab lifted but are having trouble pulling the connector off, then just get a pair of needle nose and help assist the connector off, but be VERY gentle because the plastic can be pretty brittle. Usually the older the more weak it is. Hope this helps solve your problem. Thanks for watching.
@@VinnieT Appreciate the reply Vinnie. I got if off with the "manhandle" technique. Unfortunately, I pulled the entire connector away from the solenoid. Like you said it was old and brittle and snapped off. It doesn't really matter cause I am replacing both solenoids as I don't want to have to do this job again. The car has 190k miles on the 02 Lexus Es300 and I am hopeful to have another car in a year or so. If what I have read online is true, this job should last at least 10k miles. Hey, I got 190k miles and this is the 1st time I have had to do it. Overall, very informative video and you do a great job!
@@frankdeluca3398 Thank you I really appreciate that! And that's great, you're really getting your moneys worth out of the car, they run strong for a while!
I can't thank you enough for making this tutorial and being thorough about it. It's hard to find in depth instruction on a lot of these. Any tips on how to take off the filter for the rear solenoid?
Yes I would get a 14mm socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet and carefully fish it down onto the bolt and break the bolt loose. then from there I believe you can just use your fingers to unscrew it. *NOTE* as you unscrew the last few threads of the 14mm Bolt, Make sure you pull the bolt out strait from the hole (Because the little Filter inside actually clips into the bolt you are removing). So take the bolt out strait and slowly and you may save yourself time from having to work the filter out of the hole if it just so happens to fall out of the bolt.
Excellent video...funny thing ...I got code for the front one and replaced yesterday before seeing your video...my 2001 v6 highlander has the exact same engine...looks identical...I only changed the front....left...bank 2 vvt. Don't know how u did it without removing the airbox...my hands are too big I guess. The issue was resolved and I did not mess with the filter since I did not have the part. Later on the vsc light was flashing and then I remembered that every time I erase the fault codes with OBD tool it also erases the zero point calibration and I have to perform zp calibration again. Did you also clean the screen filters? If so, were they really clogged up?
Yes I always pull out the filters and clean them, you’ll see some stuff gunked up in the filters over time, you can always remove and clean them and reuse, but it’s not a bad idea to just buy new ones cause there cheap. I’ve heard that just cleaning the filters has also solved other people’s issues too.
Great vid. My car similar to yours 2000 es300 with 137k.. Been getting the lean bank 1 code, changed the AF sensor there. Now P0125 engine coolant temp too low for loop, I ordered a sensor. Also I will change the MAF since it is cheap. What puzzles me is the randon misfires, so it doesnt give me cylinders for that where 1349 is Bank 1 and 1350 is Bank 2. The car runs rough, about to die but rpm is not that low at idle, but gas mileage has dropped by 50% seriously, , does not go into overdrive on highway and top speed in 3rd is like 45 mph. And the car stinks, smells from front like burnt and smells from the back tailpipe stinky
So the lean bank 1 code could be an air leak in your intake hose. Make sure to really check it for cracks (these ones are known for rotting and cracking). Also check pretty much all of your hoses under the hood. A MAF is also a good idea to try. As for the coolant, it could be a few things. faulty Thermostat, faulty ECT Sensor, or a Low Coolant Level . For the stinky smell, it sounds like that could be an oil leak of some type that drips down the engine onto the exhaust and burns, also could be a clogged catalytic converter. Other things to try and freshen her up, new plugs they're also cheap and then you can check for bad coils. Check Air filter (replace if needed), also check the alternator and see what its charging the battery at while idling. Side Note: while the plugs are out you can do a cylinder leak down test if you have the tools. Hope this helps!
@@VinnieT Wow thanks for the quick response, I also checked my obd2 and saw misfires in 2 4 6, indicating bank 2, probably is the vvti on that side...... thats why I looked your video
Sam Sonn there you go! It probably is the VVT. Also don’t forget to check the VVT filter. Just that alone being too sludged up or dirty can set off codes and cause issues.
@@VinnieT Thanks for the response. yes I did check the vvti filter it is good. I am 85% sure is exhaust leak at header or coupling at Y pipe because I can hear it slightly and smell it also. . OverDrive came back after I disconnected battery and let computer reset though.
I have 2000 Lexus es300 119,000 mi. Gosh, this is a great video....I'm feeling like I might try this myself. My vvt bank 2 went a few months ago and the garage charged me $400 to change it out. Now the vvvt bank 1 is throwing a code P1349 and I'm getting the same 1, 3, 5 misfires. You are a scholar and a gentleman. One question, I would have to drive this to my daughter's home in order to have a place to work on it, would I damage it if I drove it about 15 miles in this condition?
Thank you for such a nice comment, it means a lot to me! You will be totally fine driving the car 15 miles with the P1349 code. Good luck on the job, let me know if you have any questions!
I’m a 61 year old grandma and I’ve never worked on a car before. But I did this with the help of my 18 year old grandson, who also never worked on a car before. It took us a few hours, but we did it and the car is running great. Thank you so much for the tutorial.
Thanks, Vinnie. I replaced the front vvt 6 months ago and now I'm assuming the back needs replacing. Exact same symptoms only this time no check engine light. Any suggestions before I start this project? Thanks again.
Hey Tony, I would suggest checking the filter plug bolt, it can get dirty and clogged and cause the same issue. Some people have cleaned that out and it fixed the issue, but honestly the parts are pretty cheap and if your going to be working on the car anyways its easier to just throw a new VVT Solenoid in while your working in that area anyways. Especially if its the original OEM one that may be pretty old.
@@tonyferro2496 I'm glad you found the issue! Sometimes ignition coils when they start to go bad, have intermittent issues and randomly misfire, also hard to catch these sometimes.
I got same car same problem I replace the rear vvt valve and problem goes away. Before I got misfire code for cylinder 3 so I replace 6 spark plugs ignition coil for cylinder 3. I ran car for less than 100 miles then misfire code for cylinder 1, 3, 5 came on. Now I got code p0330 come on. Maybe I should replace front vvt valve too take care of the problem.
I have 1350 bank 1 i replaced the vvt and filter cannot get code to clear and help ?I applied power to the old one and it worked put back in same issue with code ,have cleared it several times still there .put new one in and still check engine 1350
I would make sure you didn't damage the connector, and make sure the connector is fully plugged in. You can also disconnect the battery and leave it off for a little while to reset the codes. If you do it this way, you may lose your saved radio stations and settings.
Quick query I JUST LITERALLY CHANGED BOTH. VVTS THE CODE DIDNT COME BACK Like 2-3 weeks but the code Is back with random cylinder misfire BUT I JUST GOT TWO NEW FILTERS DO YOU THINK THAT WILL FIX IT
gary miller yes I actually replaced them completely but after doing this job, I would say if you can’t get new ones it’s not really a big deal as long as you don’t damage them taking them out you can just clean your old ones and put them back in, they will work perfectly fine.
This is a great video but I'm having difficulty reaching everything (connector for the solenoid and getting to the filter). I'm working on the exact same car; what hoses, wires, etc., do you suggest removing to get to Bank 1?
john anthony I don’t think I removed anything to get it out, there’s a few different ways of accessing it, you can also use a flat head screw drive to [GENTLY] push the connector tab down and then wedge either another flat head between the connector to get it to budge off, or a long pair of needle nose pliers might do the trick too, just be very careful not to bread your connector head when trying to remove it.
@@VinnieT I took out the air filter housing, un-clamped a couple hoses and was finally able to reach the solenoid and the filter below. This video helped me more than anything else. Thank you!
@@VinnieT Vinnie, I did removed all the things mentioned by John Anthony and can't get the solenoid off (see my individual post near top), HELP! Sorry John for posting here (desparate)
@@gmurray658 I did this once before but need to go back and check the filters. I plan on removing the intake tube and associated hoses this time (bank 1)
I can't get the rear solenoid off. I see where you were able to "man-handle" it loose BUT mine is not to be man-handled this way. We removed the air filter housing and part of the throttle body to give better access to the rear solenoid. Still, no prying it out. It will "rotate" easily BUT not come "up" as if being removed....Your removal looked very easy but video, I don't recall,showed the actual removal of it. HELP ANYONE, PLEASE GIVE SUGGESTIONS! !
Error Code P1349 - VVT System Malfunction Bank 1. Error Code P1350 - VVT System Malfunction Bank 2. Check the filters as shown in the video, that can cause hesitation.
@@VinnieT I've spent 2 days and $200 on plugs and camshaft position sensor and still have same exact issues and still same p1350 code that parts store tell me is camshaft position sensor
Lexus sellers think its worth gold. Even with 200k miles and so many repairs needed like brakes struts and CV joints and the entire front end. Craigs Ad should read like this: "Beater" Our great lexus is now just a 50s vw bug. Needs massive repairs after we let it go to hell. Selling cheap.
I replaced both vvt solenoid on my 1999 es 300 but I am still getting a p1346 and a p0171 do you think the p0171 code could be causing this ???? we even pulled them filters our for them and cleaned them still getting the p1346 and p0171
The P1346 means that the VVT Solinoid could be bad, or the Filter is not clean and it could be clogged up in there. The P0171 means there is a vacuum leak somewhere. You could do a smoke test to really figure out what is leaking. Otherwise I would check all the hoses and vacuum lines, as well as the clamps and just make sure there is nothing obviously broken. Even check the air intake tube.
Ight thx I think it is clogged on bank 1 too bec when when pulled the vvt out for bank 1 it was hard to come out like it was stuck in there how do yu think I can unclogg it ???
@@ssaglrious9685 You can use a pair of bent or strait needle nose pliers and try to pull it out that way. Also try to your best to get the gunk out of there the best you can, maybe with metal pic or something, just be careful not to damage anything. Also Brake Cleaner could help out a bit too.
@@VinnieT okay thx that's what it gotta be bec the other vvt sensor on bank 2 is doing good that's the sensor that came out easy it slid right out I know the sensor isn't bad we just bought both brand new the same ones yu have in this video so either it is clogged or it isn't getting power
@@ssaglrious9685 Yeah your right, it’s most likely it’s just clogged, and they can be tough to take them out sometimes too. You could get a multi meter to test and see if it’s getting power but either way if it’s dirty in there that’s gonna always cause an issue.
Quick query I JUST LITERALLY CHANGED BOTH. VVTS THE CODE DIDNT COME BACK Like 2-3 weeks but the code Is back with random cylinder misfire BUT I JUST GOT TWO NEW FILTERS DO YOU THINK THAT WILL FIX IT
Hey, I believe it could help, its worth a try. If it doesn't work then at least the filters are really cheap. I would scan your car for codes and write them down, then clear them and see which codes come back. Then go from there. Let me know how it goes!
@@VinnieT gratitudes! Ok so thus far I’ve successfully changed out both filters! BUT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DID ILLUMINATE TODAY? But also the VSC LIGHT IS ON Simultaneously. BUT I HAVE MY OWN PERSONAL SCAN TOOL AND I INSERTED THE TOOL INTO MY CAR AN THE IM BUTTON CAME BACK GOOD??? Meaning NOTHING BUT GREEN CHECKS THATS WHATS BAFFLES ME? And I also try to scan it for any codes but NO CODES CAME BACK. And CHECK LIGHT IS OFF NOW!
@@VinnieT to be frank THE VSC LIGHT HAS BEEN ILLUMINATING EVERY SO OFTEN BUT I WAS ABLE TO CHANGE OUT BOTH VVT FILTERS! ALSO THE VERY STRANGE PART IS CHECK LIGHT WOULD FLASH WITH VSC LIGHT WHICH WOULD PROMPT ME TO INSERT MY CODE READER BUT ODDLY NOOOO CODES WOULD COME BACK???? AND I/M button on THE READER WOULD BE ALL GREEN? LIKE LITERALLY FIVE SECONDS FOLLOWING A FLASHING CHECK LIGHT. I DON’T know bro. PARDON THE ELONGATED MESSSGE!
Thanks a million. I found several videos for the P1349 code but yours was by far the best. Great video to show the exact location and the details of the replacement. Great job!!
JimG1959 Goldfarb thanks man I really appreciate that!
Thank you so much Vinnie T for the easy installation of the Front and Rear VVT on Lexus ES300.
I have watched a lot of Lexus DIY repair vids. You are very detailed on how to take things out and what to watch out for BEFORE taking things out! That's great! I have an RX350 and taking out the radiator (easier access than the VVT soleniod) was enough of a pain!
Small tip: A pocket red laser light can be used to point out the exact bolt/nut in hard to reach area.
unebonnevie that is a very smart idea, I’ll have to give that a try in future videos! Thanks and glad to help!
I never got to comments on this, but this video saved me so much money last month. I learned so much and could have never followed this without your instructions, thank you thank you thank you!!!
jenna121394 Thanks glad I could help!
Helped me out allot, thanks for your time. I changed both solenoids and cleaned both of the screens and the car now runs perfect. I had a total of 7 different codes from the defective Solenoid. I know have 0 codes and no check engine light. 2001 Toyota Avalon 3.0 v6 190,000 miles.
Paul bouverette thanks man I appreciate the comment, and glad I could help!
Was your car hesitating if you accelerated gas pedal quickly? I had code p1350 come up and already changed camshaft position sensor
Good job bro. Very clear and descriptive. Gives me the confidence to tackle this issue myself instead of paying dealership/shop an arm and a leg to do the same thing. I’m having the same issue with my whip. Will replace these two guys as soon as I get a chance. Thanks.
Bakari Lodge Great to hear! Good luck with everything 👍🏽
Dude thank you so much!!!! I was firing off questions in my head that I didn’t think would be answered in the video but you never failed to thoroughly answer them all.
Great I'm glad to help man!
Thanks. This is helpful for someone unfamiliar with their engine. You make clear how to replace. For future videos it will be helpful if you explain your diagnosis. E.g. did you test for resistance? Apply power to see if solenoid functions. Sometimes that code is triggered because of gelled oil and cleaning the oil passages in the head is the only solution (spraying a little solvent followed by compressed air, repeating a few times). Of couse the valve itself is more likely the cause if the engine has been well maintained.
Video was very informing of the process, EXCEPT you did not show or tell how to remove the plastic connector housing for the wires! This was the only part I needed to see. Why not tell do you pinch the tang on the connect housing with screwdriver or needle nose? Especially if you cannot video it in the tight space. I'm trying to figure out do I "pinch the tang or pry it away from the plastic housing to get the connector out? You did say you man handled the other one with you index finger but that is a vague explanation of the proper process. Thanks, Frank
I believe I just used my fingers to pinch the tab down and managed to pull the connector off. It may be different for everyone depending on how corroded it is. If you cant get the connector off by hand, then try using a small flat head to gently help lift the tab up to free the connector. If you can get the tab lifted but are having trouble pulling the connector off, then just get a pair of needle nose and help assist the connector off, but be VERY gentle because the plastic can be pretty brittle. Usually the older the more weak it is. Hope this helps solve your problem.
Thanks for watching.
@@VinnieT Appreciate the reply Vinnie. I got if off with the "manhandle" technique. Unfortunately, I pulled the entire connector away from the solenoid. Like you said it was old and brittle and snapped off. It doesn't really matter cause I am replacing both solenoids as I don't want to have to do this job again. The car has 190k miles on the 02 Lexus Es300 and I am hopeful to have another car in a year or so. If what I have read online is true, this job should last at least 10k miles. Hey, I got 190k miles and this is the 1st time I have had to do it. Overall, very informative video and you do a great job!
@@frankdeluca3398 Thank you I really appreciate that! And that's great, you're really getting your moneys worth out of the car, they run strong for a while!
I can't thank you enough for making this tutorial and being thorough about it. It's hard to find in depth instruction on a lot of these. Any tips on how to take off the filter for the rear solenoid?
Yes I would get a 14mm socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet and carefully fish it down onto the bolt and break the bolt loose. then from there I believe you can just use your fingers to unscrew it. *NOTE* as you unscrew the last few threads of the 14mm Bolt, Make sure you pull the bolt out strait from the hole (Because the little Filter inside actually clips into the bolt you are removing). So take the bolt out strait and slowly and you may save yourself time from having to work the filter out of the hole if it just so happens to fall out of the bolt.
Thanks, man! This was a big help with my 2002 Avalon
Glad to help man!
super great video NO music , just to the point !!! make more GOOD JOB Thanks
Thank you! There will be more videos to come soon!
What a Great Detailed Video.. Thank you sir..
Happy this helped, Thank you for watching!
Thank you- clearly show locations !!
Glad this helped!
Thank you so much. Your video helped me tremendously. I had this issue for a while until I found your video. Thank you again
Jun glad to help!
Great video! Thanks for doing this!
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
Great video, ive got the same codes, gonna check my oilcontrol valves tomorrow
Yo needed this I can do alot under a car u just made me look good in my home girl eyes 👀 she might just give me sum 😆🤣
Hahaha great work man, keep it up! lol
Excellent video...funny thing ...I got code for the front one and replaced yesterday before seeing your video...my 2001 v6 highlander has the exact same engine...looks identical...I only changed the front....left...bank 2 vvt.
Don't know how u did it without removing the airbox...my hands are too big I guess.
The issue was resolved and I did not mess with the filter since I did not have the part.
Later on the vsc light was flashing and then I remembered that every time I erase the fault codes with OBD tool it also erases the zero point calibration and I have to perform zp calibration again.
Did you also clean the screen filters?
If so, were they really clogged up?
Yes I always pull out the filters and clean them, you’ll see some stuff gunked up in the filters over time, you can always remove and clean them and reuse, but it’s not a bad idea to just buy new ones cause there cheap. I’ve heard that just cleaning the filters has also solved other people’s issues too.
I concour great video, got it done, thx for the well made video
Glad it all worked out for you! Thanks for the support!
how are the Dorman solenoids doing after 4 years??? how about a vid on thoses filter screens..
They are holding up great, No issues yet!
Great vid. My car similar to yours 2000 es300 with 137k.. Been getting the lean bank 1 code, changed the AF sensor there. Now P0125 engine coolant temp too low for loop, I ordered a sensor. Also I will change the MAF since it is cheap. What puzzles me is the randon misfires, so it doesnt give me cylinders for that where 1349 is Bank 1 and 1350 is Bank 2. The car runs rough, about to die but rpm is not that low at idle, but gas mileage has dropped by 50% seriously, , does not go into overdrive on highway and top speed in 3rd is like 45 mph. And the car stinks, smells from front like burnt and smells from the back tailpipe stinky
So the lean bank 1 code could be an air leak in your intake hose. Make sure to really check it for cracks (these ones are known for rotting and cracking). Also check pretty much all of your hoses under the hood. A MAF is also a good idea to try. As for the coolant, it could be a few things. faulty Thermostat, faulty ECT Sensor, or a Low Coolant Level
. For the stinky smell, it sounds like that could be an oil leak of some type that drips down the engine onto the exhaust and burns, also could be a clogged catalytic converter.
Other things to try and freshen her up, new plugs they're also cheap and then you can check for bad coils. Check Air filter (replace if needed), also check the alternator and see what its charging the battery at while idling. Side Note: while the plugs are out you can do a cylinder leak down test if you have the tools.
Hope this helps!
@@VinnieT Wow thanks for the quick response, I also checked my obd2 and saw misfires in 2 4 6, indicating bank 2, probably is the vvti on that side...... thats why I looked your video
Sam Sonn there you go! It probably is the VVT. Also don’t forget to check the VVT filter. Just that alone being too sludged up or dirty can set off codes and cause issues.
I got code p1350 on my 02 Lexus Es300 and already changed camshaft position sensor...im having a hesitation issue and cannot figure it out
@@VinnieT Thanks for the response. yes I did check the vvti filter it is good. I am 85% sure is exhaust leak at header or coupling at Y pipe because I can hear it slightly and smell it also. . OverDrive came back after I disconnected battery and let computer reset though.
I have 2000 Lexus es300 119,000 mi. Gosh, this is a great video....I'm feeling like I might try this myself. My vvt bank 2 went a few months ago and the garage charged me $400 to change it out. Now the vvvt bank 1 is throwing a code P1349 and I'm getting the same 1, 3, 5 misfires. You are a scholar and a gentleman. One question, I would have to drive this to my daughter's home in order to have a place to work on it, would I damage it if I drove it about 15 miles in this condition?
Thank you for such a nice comment, it means a lot to me! You will be totally fine driving the car 15 miles with the P1349 code. Good luck on the job, let me know if you have any questions!
I’m a 61 year old grandma and I’ve never worked on a car before. But I did this with the help of my 18 year old grandson, who also never worked on a car before. It took us a few hours, but we did it and the car is running great. Thank you so much for the tutorial.
@@MoonChildMedia Wow I'm very impressed! I love to hear this, thank you for watching and great job on fixing your own car!
@@VinnieT Thank you.....I feel pretty good about it too!
Thanks, Vinnie. I replaced the front vvt 6 months ago and now I'm assuming the back needs replacing. Exact same symptoms only this time no check engine light. Any suggestions before I start this project? Thanks again.
Hey Tony, I would suggest checking the filter plug bolt, it can get dirty and clogged and cause the same issue. Some people have cleaned that out and it fixed the issue, but honestly the parts are pretty cheap and if your going to be working on the car anyways its easier to just throw a new VVT Solenoid in while your working in that area anyways. Especially if its the original OEM one that may be pretty old.
@@VinnieT It turned out to be a bad ignition coil causing very random misfiring. Never triggered a CEL.
@@tonyferro2496 I'm glad you found the issue! Sometimes ignition coils when they start to go bad, have intermittent issues and randomly misfire, also hard to catch these sometimes.
Good video. Thanks!
Thanks! very helpful
chosen one glad to help!
I got same car same problem I replace the rear vvt valve and problem goes away. Before I got misfire code for cylinder 3 so I replace 6 spark plugs ignition coil for cylinder 3. I ran car for less than 100 miles then misfire code for cylinder 1, 3, 5 came on. Now I got code p0330 come on. Maybe I should replace front vvt valve too take care of the problem.
Yes I would probably replace the front VVT to fix this issue.
Excellent thanks a lot .....
I have 1350 bank 1 i replaced the vvt and filter cannot get code to clear and help ?I applied power to the old one and it worked put back in same issue with code ,have cleared it several times still there .put new one in and still check engine 1350
I would make sure you didn't damage the connector, and make sure the connector is fully plugged in. You can also disconnect the battery and leave it off for a little while to reset the codes. If you do it this way, you may lose your saved radio stations and settings.
Quick query I JUST LITERALLY CHANGED BOTH. VVTS THE CODE DIDNT COME BACK Like 2-3 weeks but the code Is back with random cylinder misfire BUT I JUST GOT TWO NEW FILTERS DO YOU THINK THAT WILL FIX IT
Did you remove and clean the filters as well?
gary miller yes I actually replaced them completely but after doing this job, I would say if you can’t get new ones it’s not really a big deal as long as you don’t damage them taking them out you can just clean your old ones and put them back in, they will work perfectly fine.
This is a great video but I'm having difficulty reaching everything (connector for the solenoid and getting to the filter). I'm working on the exact same car; what hoses, wires, etc., do you suggest removing to get to Bank 1?
john anthony I don’t think I removed anything to get it out, there’s a few different ways of accessing it, you can also use a flat head screw drive to [GENTLY] push the connector tab down and then wedge either another flat head between the connector to get it to budge off, or a long pair of needle nose pliers might do the trick too, just be very careful not to bread your connector head when trying to remove it.
@@VinnieT I took out the air filter housing, un-clamped a couple hoses and was finally able to reach the solenoid and the filter below. This video helped me more than anything else. Thank you!
@@johnanthony8653 Awesome job man, glad to hear this helped thank you!
@@VinnieT Vinnie, I did removed all the things mentioned by John Anthony and can't get the solenoid off (see my individual post near top), HELP! Sorry John for posting here (desparate)
@@gmurray658 I did this once before but need to go back and check the filters. I plan on removing the intake tube and associated hoses this time (bank 1)
Thanks need this for my 00. That motor sounds like shit though lol
I can't get the rear solenoid off. I see where you were able to "man-handle" it loose BUT mine is not to be man-handled this way. We removed the air filter housing and part of the throttle body to give better access to the rear solenoid. Still, no prying it out. It will "rotate" easily BUT not come "up" as if being removed....Your removal looked very easy but video, I don't recall,showed the actual removal of it. HELP ANYONE, PLEASE GIVE SUGGESTIONS! !
Its probably seized up in there, try maybe some power lube around it, and even maybe some taps with a rubber mallet if its not budging.
How to fix P1153 code on lexus rx 300 1999 ? thank you
Excuse my ignorance, but what kind of oil did you use to lubricate the new solenoids?
Jose Labrador I used just normal engine oil, I believe it was 5w30 oil.
Is code p1350 on a reader same as p1349 or Lexus cause I've already changed camshaft position sensor, idc why my car is hesitating.
Error Code P1349 - VVT System Malfunction Bank 1.
Error Code P1350 - VVT System Malfunction Bank 2.
Check the filters as shown in the video, that can cause hesitation.
@@VinnieT
I've spent 2 days and $200 on plugs and camshaft position sensor and still have same exact issues and still same p1350 code that parts store tell me is camshaft position sensor
Thanks bro!
Xx2ndAmendmentxX glad to help
Lexus sellers think its worth gold. Even with 200k miles and so many repairs needed like brakes struts and CV joints and the entire front end. Craigs Ad should read like this:
"Beater" Our great lexus is now just a 50s vw bug. Needs massive repairs after we let it go to hell. Selling cheap.
that means bmw mercedes and audi are worth like bronze. LOL
I replaced both vvt solenoid on my 1999 es 300 but I am still getting a p1346 and a p0171 do you think the p0171 code could be causing this ???? we even pulled them filters our for them and cleaned them still getting the p1346 and p0171
The P1346 means that the VVT Solinoid could be bad, or the Filter is not clean and it could be clogged up in there.
The P0171 means there is a vacuum leak somewhere. You could do a smoke test to really figure out what is leaking. Otherwise I would check all the hoses and vacuum lines, as well as the clamps and just make sure there is nothing obviously broken. Even check the air intake tube.
Ight thx I think it is clogged on bank 1 too bec when when pulled the vvt out for bank 1 it was hard to come out like it was stuck in there how do yu think I can unclogg it ???
@@ssaglrious9685 You can use a pair of bent or strait needle nose pliers and try to pull it out that way. Also try to your best to get the gunk out of there the best you can, maybe with metal pic or something, just be careful not to damage anything. Also Brake Cleaner could help out a bit too.
@@VinnieT okay thx that's what it gotta be bec the other vvt sensor on bank 2 is doing good that's the sensor that came out easy it slid right out I know the sensor isn't bad we just bought both brand new the same ones yu have in this video so either it is clogged or it isn't getting power
@@ssaglrious9685 Yeah your right, it’s most likely it’s just clogged, and they can be tough to take them out sometimes too. You could get a multi meter to test and see if it’s getting power but either way if it’s dirty in there that’s gonna always cause an issue.
I changed the OCV and filter and I still get p1349 and a cel and flashing track light even after erasing code any ideas?
You may have a bad VVT Solenoid
VinnieT8 where is that located? Fixable?
@@mikejamieson6802 Watch the video, I explain the whole procedure in there.
I got a used one at junkyard it works now
@@mikejamieson6802 Great glad to hear!
Different for a 1997
Quick query I JUST LITERALLY CHANGED BOTH. VVTS THE CODE DIDNT COME BACK Like 2-3 weeks but the code Is back with random cylinder misfire BUT I JUST GOT TWO NEW FILTERS DO YOU THINK THAT WILL FIX IT
Hey, I believe it could help, its worth a try. If it doesn't work then at least the filters are really cheap. I would scan your car for codes and write them down, then clear them and see which codes come back. Then go from there. Let me know how it goes!
@@VinnieT gratitudes! Ok so thus far I’ve successfully changed out both filters! BUT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DID ILLUMINATE TODAY? But also the VSC LIGHT IS ON Simultaneously. BUT I HAVE MY OWN PERSONAL SCAN TOOL AND I INSERTED THE TOOL INTO MY CAR AN THE IM BUTTON CAME BACK GOOD??? Meaning NOTHING BUT GREEN CHECKS THATS WHATS BAFFLES ME? And I also try to scan it for any codes but NO CODES CAME BACK. And CHECK LIGHT IS OFF NOW!
@@youngdeity666 ok great so you don't have any codes present or warning lights correct?
@@VinnieT to be frank THE VSC LIGHT HAS BEEN ILLUMINATING EVERY SO OFTEN BUT I WAS ABLE TO CHANGE OUT BOTH VVT FILTERS! ALSO THE VERY STRANGE PART IS CHECK LIGHT WOULD FLASH WITH VSC LIGHT WHICH WOULD PROMPT ME TO INSERT MY CODE READER BUT ODDLY NOOOO CODES WOULD COME BACK???? AND I/M button on THE READER WOULD BE ALL GREEN? LIKE LITERALLY FIVE SECONDS FOLLOWING A FLASHING CHECK LIGHT.
I DON’T know bro. PARDON THE ELONGATED MESSSGE!