"I Can't Back Up!" Lexus No Reverse (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Time to jack up the car, drain the ATF, and inspect the solenoids in the valve body.
Will we find the problem, or is it bad news for the owner?
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Enjoy!
Ivan
I had this problem on first generation LS400. It was due to a flat o-ring on the shift solenoid. It is clearly visible in your video that they are flat as well. Solenoid tries to block the hole it is stuck in but as the o-ring is flat it can't. Try just replace o-rings on all solenoids you pulled out; it may help. Thanks for the video.
Very interesting!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Would some kind of pressure test show this up?
I had this happened to a BMW. It was the valve body one way check balls. They are plastic and wear out with time, then they get stuck, causing intermittent issue of no reverse. I would open the valve body. The dealer wanted 8k to change the transmission, i fixed it for 200 by replacing the one way check balls in the valve body.
I have work on transmissions for years. Since 2000. Never a Lexus but I been saying to the screen that it most like the forward clutch that is bad. Because it is not releasing.
I'm thinking those little solenoids probably don't directly operate the clutch band pistons. They probably move "spools" or "shuttles" somewhere in the transmission that in turn perform the heavy lifting. It's possible you're on the right solenoid, but ahead of the inoperable spool. If the spools are worn, the additional flow caused by the leakage may exceed what the solenoid can provide. Or a spool could just be stuck.
I've never purchased a vehicle for myself with an automatic, but I've purchased them for my wife and then crossed my fingers. I'm really looking forward to seeing this one thru!
In ZF gearboxes the hydraulic valves operate almost like a darlington array with tranzistors. By switching the current you operate a small valve/solenoid which reroutes high pressure oil to a bigger/stiffer valve which then operates the clutch. And there are 2 types of valves - normally closed and normally open i.e. two different types of logic.
Yep, reliability is a solid reason to buy a manual car. Unfortunately, apart from basic vehicles, manuals are seldom found these days. Shame, but such are market trends.
As a rule of thumb just about every automatic transmission I have seen will give you one forward gear and reverse as a default. I’m sure that Aisan transmission gives you test ports you can use for diagnosis. Another point is let your customer know when the fluid is black like that. Changing fluid can either improve the transmission with a shift concern but it can also cause a transmission which is working okay to fail. Clutches on their last leg when you introduce a slippery fluid then failure shortly thereafter. A valve body overhaul might fix this issue. Also with valve body removed you can use air pressure to check clutch pack pistons. I have rebuilt transmissions in the past for my own junk but there are too many details for each design which if you are not aware can give your customer a poor rebuild.
Looking forward for the next part Ivan! Quite interesting is when you put it in reverse and try to accelerate that the trans actually wants to move backwards but can't.. seems like a fluid passage in the valve body is not getting enough line pressure to actuate the reverse gear.. not sure, but a valve body cleaning and or rebuild may fix it. Thanks for taking us along. Cheers!
If it were jumping in and out of gear or had lazy shifting of some gears, I might agree with bad solenoids. Now I'm certainly no automatic transmission expert. Nore, do I want to be. I was really hoping that you were on to something there, but that 4th gear solenoid that you went after is basically an overdrive gear solenoid. But in this case, with the issues this transmission is showing, the problem seems much deeper than a simple valve body repair would remedy. I hope I am wrong but it's looking like this job just got a whole lot more complicated. I have a little request though if you do wind up swapping out the transmission. If you are able, would you be willing to do a tear down of the bad trans for us?
I'm like you, I do mechanic work for a living, but not a transmission specialist. I can tell you that the last Aisin transmission I tore apart, never got put back together. Just got replaced. And after a full teardown of the old one, could never find anything wrong with it. It should have went in D and driven fine. It was clean, well maintainted, the clutches looked great for 200k miles. The valve body was fine, all the valves moved fine in their bores, with the exception of one torque converter lockup valve was a tiny bit sticky. It would go in R just fine, well it would shift into any gear fine, but every few seconds the trans would lock up and stall the engine, violently, then unlock.
Even if this car was taken to a transmission specialist, i think with 179k miles they probably would want to build it anyway. Low mileage used transmission sounds like a good plan.
..like eric o says..transmissions are magical things...good job...
I had a very similar symptom with my 94' Ford Aerostar with A4LD transmission. In Park the parking pawls would engage and it would hold the vehicle but you could feel the engine stay under load. In Reverse it would load up but not move in either direction. It almost felt like it was in reverse and drive at the same time. Neutral would act the same as drive and would shift through all the forward gears normally. It seems almost exactly the same as this failure. The ATF looked clean and unburnt. It ended up being an internal failure with the forward clutch pack being permanently engaged I believe.
i've seen this same failure in three different chevy transmissions, 2 were the 4L80E and 1 was a 4L60E, all three were caused by physical damage to the parts in the transmission. In 2 of them one or more clutch plates had welded themselves to the steels in the forward clutch pack, just like you had mentioned. i know this A650E transmission isn't the same as those chevy's, but how it operates is very similar. I'll put a link to a service manual for the A650E in a comment below this one if anybody's interested.
Looks more and more like a Fluid pressure issue, caused by the pump or blockage. That also explains why the solenoids are not going to the correct position when de-energized and hence throwing a code intermittently. Hopefully you’ll find the definitive answer!
Maybe just needs a valve body but only a professional could verify that. I’d take it to a transmission shop.. have them rebuild and get a decent warranty for 3 grand.
What did you find???
Remember the solinods operate valves which direct a volume of fluid. It is probably a valve problem, or valve body internal leak where pressure is going to the wrong place. Most transmissions failures (in unmodified cars) start as a valve body issue which then goes on damage the rest.
Except it self-fixes after 20-30 min of driving.
@@additudeobx probably the hot fluid softens the seals which reduces the leaking
The forward friction plates have become welded to the forward steel plates. That's why it drives forward in neutral and locks up in reverse because it's trying to go forward and reverse at the same time. Transmission needs a rebuild!
Take it to Scotty Kilmer. It can't be broken because it's a Toyota product. 😂
Ivan I had the same issue with an older Ford AOD transmission RWD. I accidentally shifted into reverse at 60 MPH (stupid teenage me). After that it was never the same… The engine was always loaded down, tried to go forward in park until the parking pawl engagement, reverse instantly locked the wheels, neutral drove forward and otherwise drove forward perfectly. As a DIYer I rebuilt, successfully, 2 transmissions in my life. I would assume it’s a valve body problem and would almost put money on a stuck check ball. GM transmissions in the 1990s and 2000s were famously loosing 3rd & 4th gear due to a stuck check ball in the separator plate between the valve body and the transmission. Great case study! Thanks for the video!
Junkyard transmission?
Aka box of chocolates you never know what you're going to get.
Agreed.
That’s crazy I just finished the part 1 video when you posted this one. Keep up the good work!
So sad to see that happened to ls430. Never heard anything like that before in the ls430 model. I am so lucky my ls430 is going strong at 335,000 miles.
Can you discuss this transmission with these folks:
Precision Transmission
214K subscribers•510 videos
Just a family owned business in Amarillo, Tx trying to show the world what we are made of!!! My Dad Richard Crich, my mom ...
Richard of Precision Transmission could rip it apart and tell you what’s up with it….
Someone else alluded to this in the comments. I would try draining and flushing the fluid a couple more times. Maybe add some kind of additive also. Did this with my 1997 Celica, 230,000 miles, initially very dark fluid obviously never been changed. Transmission gear shifts were a bit vague. After a couple of drains and replenish now shifting as smooth as butter. I used the Valvoline stuff also, good stuff and cheap in Walmart.
According to Toyota if you do 3 drain and fills it gets 90% of fluid exchanged. I'd do 2 more drain and fills
Good point, worth a try before a rebuild.
"WE CAN TEAR THIS WHOLE THING APART AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER " thats the ivan i know !!good job !!
I would just fix the taillamp failure and ship it.😂
Hook up an air hose with a clean air tank and blast air throough the solenoid's galley to possibly get out a clog
That transmission pan has been off before. They use grey silicon on the pan from the factory.
Id be interested to see a teardown of the old transmission to see if there is some obvious failure. Considering its a junkyard they probably wont care if you've taken it apart for the core charge.
Precision Transmission in Amarillo TX would know what it is...They are on TH-cam. Richard is so knowledgeable
Like I said yesterday - front clutch burnt together....
We’ve seen a couple of these do it, low oil causes burnt clutch
The car is probably long since done and gone I think these are filmed way in advance but you're 100% correct I put $100 bill on the front clutch being burnt together!
Very interesting! Not sure of the history of the car. Perhaps a trans coolant hose burst, leaked the fluid out, and caused delayed problems for the future owner haha
I’ve seen this happen on both a Tundra and a Corolla. Both times they were run extremely low on ATF. Both times due to poor workmanship from other shops.
Death trap Toyotas. Unintended acceleration and vehicles driving in neutral and fighting park! I love what you do for me, Toyota!
Ivan, feeling your frustration, or at least mine. A multitude of possible scenarios were running through my mind. I had to just sit back and let the Master work it out. Looking forward to Part 3. Thanks for Sharing! P.S. Don't think I'll be owning a Lexus anytime soon!
Yeah it was a bit frustrating haha
Needle in a haystack these transmissions are usually bulletproof change the fluid and you solid some take the abuse but not all parts are made the same
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Any history of service/rep/repairs on the transmission during its lifetime to date.?
Ivan has to be nuts to try and change the transmission on that particular car without a lift. You have to be a masochist to want to do that.
Hate to say it but call Richard at precision transmission in yeah it is in Amarillo Texas and see what he suggests it could be the wiring harness maybe there's fluid in the wiring connection
Ivan I start by check valve body plate for steel ball stuck to the plate or one could have punch it way thru, other than that forward clutches assy could have welded itself together from extreme heat
now i can confirm new fluid can be very cleaning but also bad had to change the fluid in my t350 trans on my old chevy truck after gas thieves punched a hole in the pan looking for gas (which they also stole) but the new fluid loosened up dirt grime bits of junk an jammed a pressure relief valve closed which caused the pump to bomb thus i needed a new (rebuilt) trans just a few days after getting my truck back going yes very old truck the trans shop basically said change the filter minimal fluid change in older units that you dont know their history for that very reason
Wow, haven’t heard Fubar in a very long time.?😀
Automatic transmissions on modern cars are crazy complicated. And to add to the madness, manufacturers are telling customers that fluid is good for the life of the car !!! Which is total BS and ruins valve bodies and torque converters.
more than likely internal mechanical failure causing the first gear clutch pack to be stuck
I'm thinking demon possession.
If it goes forward and neutral a clutch pack is welded together that clutch pack needs to release 4 reverse
Was thinking the same thing a clutch pack is welded together.....
Yeah i totally agree. We had a Chevy 4L60 do that just a few weeks back. It was bound up in multi gears because of a welded/galled clutch.
That's a new one, forward in all positions!! Even if it's time for transmission swap,but i would like to see that transmission torn down, I cant wait to see the fix.
Gm 4L60e- you get park and all neutrals
Lexus- you get all the drives 😂
This is a very tire A340. First, the solenoids only allow oil to act in a shift valve, high is what accomplished the shift.
The difference between neutral and low is the low/reverse clutch cutting engine braking.
The problem with this is what it’s always been: the forward clutch is welded together (possibly by running with low fluid), and the binding you’re feeling is exactly that: the forward clutch is physically stuck on when it should be off in reverse.
Time for a rebuild.
Most likely a worn out reverse band or clutch pack, whichever it has. Or worn out valve body causing line pressure issues. I would put a pressure gauge in and check the line pressure to make sure is within spec's on each gear and park.
It looks as if Drive is not disengaging . If it is not releasing then neutral and reverse can’t override it so it still goes forward. Solenoid, oil pressure. Who knows. Ah Precision Transmissions……they’ll know.
Edit….. a quick google gives possible problems and remedy’s for the B solenoid fault code. Maybe worth a look. Could even be low fluid.
check balls gradually widen their seats, sometimes to the point they stick in the hole. When it gets hot, it changes the sizes and it may run different. My my transmission has 8 check balls.
Some of the older GM front wheel drive transmissions are ridiculous with check balls. The first transmission I ever tore apart was from an '87 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. Boy I was in for a surprise when I started taking layers of the valve body apart. There must have been 50 or 60 check balls in the floor when I gave up and said, this transmission ain't getting fixed.
I don’t work on cars just my own simple 4cyl stick shift. I think a gasket is compromised somewhere, maybe in the value body. Just by watching the problem and how Ivan describes it’s fighting itself. But then again what do I know, I fix laptop boards. 😆 Maybe Ivan will take the valve body out before pulling the trigger on a junker. I hope so it’s great content and maybe Ivan will find the problem. I ❤️ seeing the exact point of failure and go full circle explaining symptoms. Being able to solve these tough problems gives such a great feeling. However I completely understand, one has to justify if its economically viable to go down a rabbit hole. 😬 But come on Ivan do it for us pleeeaaase.🤣
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Can’t wait to see what happens next. It’s the next day and I have been thinking about this case. Maybe because I had a pretty easy week at my work. Lots of very familiar older model boards I have lots of experience with already.
I do have an interesting 2018 model with one of those weird unhonest clients if you care to read about it. Not unhonest like cheating me off a repair or diagnosis, just unhonest with the history of the machine. The machine turns on and almost boots, it just crashes at a certain point. 100% reproducible and happens identical each time at the exact same point. I am already thinking corrupt OS. I open the machine and see somebody has been there before. They say the board was reworked by apple. Lol Apple does not do much rework on boards. Even less leave lots of flux and uneven amounts of solder on the pins but somebody reworked cpu mosfets. No idea why but it did work so they did an ok job I guess. 🤷🏽♂️ It just doesn’t make sense why go for the mosfets considering the symptoms. Cpu is working fine and diagnostic mode (shows error codes similar to cars) shows nothing. Then I see there are signs of old liquid damage by a clock signal. That’s the real ‘durp’ moment that guy had. He already fixed the board by cleaning the clock signal area. When it got wet the interruption of a clock signal while the machine is running is a great way to corrupt data. It probably just needs a fresh install of the OS. Just waiting on client to ok the wipe. The mosfets didn’t need to be touched in the first place but I fixed the mess they left anyways. And that was my most interesting case.
Every time I went with a used transmission I have been sorry. Transmissions only last so long. The money I spent on used transmission was wasted money. Do the job right, get professional rebuilt unit.
Not my car, and owner wanted it to drive to sell it... ;)
It would be cool to see the tear down of the bad transmission just to see the failure if possible. The only reason I say that is because it seems to be a common issue and I would hate to see 6 months down the road warranties up and it fails. Atleast if you find the problem maybe it can be prevented or even fixed.
*Yikes. Putting aftermarket ATF fluid. I would never take that chance. OEM for my cars*
Would be a waste of good OEM fluid haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Now that's funny !
While your test driving it MAYBE you should drive it to a pick and pull,and see if there's a car there with that solenoid in it for 20 bucks.And give that try.haha All of your latest video's have been great in that they were so tricky to fix,the more trouble you have fixing a car the MORE US{YOUR VIEWERS LEARN}from your process tree that's inside your head.This one is good because the SCANNER may not be able to SEE THE ISSUE.IT SEES the solenoids working electrically by not the FLOW OF FLUID???OR even a valve-body piston that may be GUMMED UP>i watch a lot of PRECISION TRANSMISSION video''s but they do mostly American stuff,but automatics.RICHARD and his son do most of the work,they might be in Texas.They would say that fluid's fried.thanks IVAN
Start the car, unplug the netural safety switch, then road test,
Please pull apart the old one you pull out and get a diagnosis of the failure, we *HAVE TO KNOW!*
I had this exact problem on a 1980s European ford. The transmission specialist diagnosed a stuck 1st gear clutch which necessitated a transmission rebuild.
wonder if the guys at Precision Transmission have seen this. The old guy is pretty sharp
I've had real good luck with CRC transmission tune up for undocking stuck check balls or solenoids. Lucas transmission treatment is also good. Rislone transmission treatment is good too.
Anyone have p2757 lexus LS430 I changed the solenoid code keeps coming back all lexus parts solenoid filter and fluid
I would pull the valve body and give it a good inspection I am betting there is some shit in there sticking a valve allowing it to bleed off pressures.
Can you imagine letting Somone borrow the car and you tell the person Reverse is Drive so is Neutral and Park dose not hold the car so use the handbrake and to Reverse turn the engine off lol.
Maybe 500 ml of LUCAS transmission fluid would help. At this point what have you to lose?
Time lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics When God created time, gave us infinite amount of it.
@@mikefoehr235it’s most definitely a finite resource. Time won’t last forever and none of us are guaranteed anything from one moment to the next.
It's the forward clutch not disengaging. So you still have first second third gear. In neutral it just stays locked in forward. When you put it in reverse it's applying the reverse clutch and forward at the same time.. like a trans brake for drag racing..
It definitely needs rebuild
Don`t think so, if that was the case the transmission would of locked and the engine would of stall
@@pk6336158 Won't stall the engine unless the torque converter lockup is engaged.
@@RobertHancock1 sorry I meant like torque converter stall, where you mash the gas pedal, engine revs to 1500 rpm an won't move because multiple gears are engaged at once
This. Might be a shuttle in the valve body or might be a defective/stuck clutch piston. Either way, probably more cost effective to find a good used unit or a reman.
I have an '06 is250 with the A960e trans. My DTC is p0761.
Those TCM codes can be misleading and bench tests or bidirectional tests of the solenoids tell very little unless they have completely failed.
I have had my VB apart and tested each solenoid for ohm and V and they all worked.
I have tried fresh fluid, a Sonnax zipkit - which cleaned up my N-D, and even a S3 solenoid. Still P0761. Still won't go beyond 3rd.
One TH-camr suggests that the SLT and S3 are to blame. Sonnax claims the bore plug for the SR failure is at fault. I wonder.
You've showed me some very cool tests that I am keen to try.
When I inspect the solenoids again I'll be sure to observe movement instead of just listening for clicks.
I wonder if I can set my scan tool to live data and use it as a scope in order to observe the Pintle hump?
Very interesting comment below about the o'rings.
It is a project car. I am determined to find the root problem
Fantastic videos.
Thank you.
Edit: Tore down the entire transmission. The c2 and b2 clutches were completely burnt. Cellulose had worn all the way and steel was rubbing on steel.Replaced them and that fixed it. Also had to replace the SLU solenoid to fix P2757. Runs like a clock now.
I had same problem I fixed it by adding the proper level of fluid. Seems if you over fill the fluid transmission acts up. I was having problems going into drive and reverse. I drained about 3 quarts also which was quart and a half over when I but fluid back. I added little by little and kept making sure fluid was warm when checking on dip stick. I heard these transmissions are bulletproof I have 260k going strong. You’re probably wondering why my transmission fluid was over it’s because I didn’t wait till the fluid was hot when checking so I kept adding after I did this my transmission start acting up yeah and I thought I was going crazy.
This sounds like the issues with the 2001 es300 200k that I had. In R just revs no grabbing. In D soft grinding. Sounds like transmission ecm.
Warning, ths following comment is dripping with sarcasm, Ship it to the numero uno Toyota fanboy in Tennessee, he'll plug in his fancy scan tool and fix it in one second flat because Toyotas never break and only he knows how to deal with them, PS. I'll bet that seat will come back looking like new too.
I'd check if Toyota carries it cheaper lmao
Stop fiddling with transmissions as you don't know what you are doing. Putting into reverse while going forward does damage.
Those trannys are bullet proof and work for 100's of thousands of miles. Also check the sensors or solenoids and 4 quarts of the right recommended fluid and change the filter do not flush tranny.
this deserves a call precision transmission on you tub
Thought Toyota’s didn’t break😂! Think it hilarious for all the Toyota lovers! Only 179,000 miles and can’t decide which way to go! Good thing I didn’t buy Toyota. Cost more to buy and cost more to repair
Amen! I had an 01 Avalon lose the first transmission at 98k miles on the clock, and the replacement transmission i bought from Spitzer Toyota in monroeville Pa failed with 126k miles on the odometer, amongst the rear cylinder head cracking, the entire knock sensor circuit (both sensors, the under intake wiring harness, and the wires to the ECM) replaced twice and was acting up the 3rd time when i had that pig properly disposed of by the fire department who used it for extraction training purposes via jaws of life and chop saws! The pig ate rear struts, the rear subframe mounting point to the body rotted away (oddly the only rust on that pig of a car!)
Hello i have toyota wish zne10g no reverse no forward im stressed help me im a mechanic but this win me
it is a very common problem in toyota i have seen it many kisses that same symptom conclusion a new transmission
Good luck. just saying
I'd go to a junkyard & get a solenoid from there at least it won't cost as much
Bro some are on and off and some are based on duty cycle I thought that be obvious.
Ivan when you have a transmission reverse problem the first place you check is the manual valve. The manual valve the Rex transmission fluid to the appropriate hydraulic circuit based upon the position of the
Ivan when you have a transmission reverse problem the first place you check is the manual valve the manual directs transmission fluid to the appropriate hydraulic circuit in the transmission based upon the position of the shift lever you went the wrong direction and your troubleshooting
Dirty fluid can cause many silly problems.
If i was doing it i would send the transmission to a transmission specialist and let him sort it out, them all you have to do is take it out and put it back...
Is the TCM telling the solenoids to activate / deactivate at the wrong time such as when in park? The TCM might be "seeing" that the transmission is in gear due to a bad input, and applying power to solenoids at the wrong time. You said the transmission works well on the highway, why does it shift correctly in drive but acts up in other gears. I'd think something stuck would cause driveability issues. Also a long drive would heat soak the TCM possibly restoring an internal connection.
That will only be a problem when shifting gears while driving. When manually selecting a gear with the shifter the manual valve has full control of the gear selected, not the shift solenoids and computer.
@@deerhunter8533 Got it.
Sorry. Almost like power braking
put some Lucas in that bad boy 🥰
guy should have taken it to a trans specialist. u wasted a lot of time from lack of knowledge in this area. cannot be a hero every time
He did, they told him it needs a transmission and that they couldn't get one haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics a real trans specialist would have offered to rebuild it. imagine it would have been too pricey to be worth it though. overall you usually are impressive in your ability to narrow down the problem and fix it with minimal parts.
Maybe a temp getting a used valve body and see if anything changes?
Never clicked a video so fast! Loved your diagnosis in the first video.
Yo man i got the lexus v8 1uz it catches reverse but doesnt want to reverse
I have the same car same issue please let me know how you solved it
I kept looking all day for Part 2. And now-- it's looking like there's simply not going to be a typical Ivan elctronics fix.
Can't win them all lol
Check and replace the neutral safety switch.
Sounds like a valve in the valve body sticking
Thank you Ivan for a very interesting case! This one is very interesting!
Hey what's with this safely switch on the transmission
Probably too late, but I would have driven for 15-20 minutes and did another spill and fill. I would do this 3-4 times driving between each to mix old and new fluid. Especially since customer said symptoms cleared after driven. You difficult par is the symptoms changed after you changed 3 quarts. Max life is only $20 gallon and get 3 gallons. Tried this on 2 VW Jetta Tiptronic with their "Lifetime Fluid" and cured their ailments. One even only had 1st and 2nd with harsh knocking shift and it smoothed out. I have put another 100K on one of the transmissions since.
No trouble codes at all! Must be fixed!
Rpm issue is Sprague bearing operation ?
Great video,
At least Toyota you can change out a single solenoid. Nissan Re4f04b you have to change the entire wire harness and the attached solenoid block with all of the solenoids at once and have to take out valve body to do it per Service bulletin
I could say, "Whatever - and it doesn't matter"
There's no one "Miracle Transmission Guru" here that can say exactly what this issue is.
This is not that cut and dry.
Maybe the factory transmission installer quality test engineer can make the call. And I promise that even that prognosis on a problem like this is just a more likely than not symbolism.
This is a tough position to be in.
Everything else heard here is just pure speculation.
That means, it's time to restart. You already know that you got the first "Symptoms" wrong.
Now you know more. Give up the initial thoughts and revaluate and diagnose.
It always wants to move forward.
Does that include when in PARK?
You have three fault modules.
Transmission
Torque Converter
Shift Selector
Start calculating, start theorizing, start eliminating.
So close but yet so far. You have access to the valve body hydraulic circuit diagram for A761E transmissions and could've traced back which hydraulic circuit controls which function. If not transtar is your friend. The DTC's are basically telling you which hydraulic circuit has failed, not failing solenoids.The failure, imo is a stuck pressure regulator valve, typical of neglected transmissions. I would've dropped the valve body and free'd any stuck regulator valves and/or update the valves using a update kit. This works 99% of the time.
I'd tear down valve body . Something is not keeping opposing shift pressures . 85 VW Golf had similar issue , "D" and "R" were engaged at the same time . Car would not move . Big seal was torn . This may not be the issue but for case study maybe it would be a good Idea ..... "Go Go Ivan" !!! ..... ..... ....
Have to ask. Why is S4, the TCC solenoid being commanded on in reverse when the shifting chart says iT shouldn't. If it's locking the tranny gears to a 1:1 ratio, there's not enough start up torque to begin with. Almosy like oiwer braking the tranny. See what happens with S4 disconnected.
I wrote this yesterday but didn't end up posting because I figured that it's not really going to help. As you have already done what ever you are going to do if your posting the video.
But, in case it helps in the future. . .
The industry old wives tale is that changing the fluid on an old transmission will kill it. It can be a 50/50 bet, BUT I have personally only found it to be true on a car that is already exhibiting clutch slip or tolerance issues. It's not so much from the new fluid, as losing the old fluid that was littered with worn clutch material. The sum of the old clutch ridden fluid and the worn clutch pack was just enough to have the trans slipping. With clean fluid and worn clutch = dead!
For everything else. If the solenoids test ok. I will follow these same steps with a very high success rate.
Dump the oil from the pan. Remove all the solenoids.
#Key part 1 = Demagnetise them which aids in removing any swarf stuck due to solenoid magnetism during the next stage.
Transmission shops have dedicated solenoid flushing machines that pump cleaner through while being pulsed at varying duty cycles (shifts are on/off but the regulating ones are PWM). Then they test them and fit new o-rings = cheap insurance for a transmission shop to confirm they're clean and fully functioning.
Refit solenoids with brand new filter. Clean pan and magnet to perfection (or replace magnet with a Neodymium magnet which is much stronger). Refill with brand new fluid. Fit pan with new gasket.
#key part 2 = If you just drop the fluid and refill the fluid. Everything else was a waste of time! You will only ever get a few liters when I guarantee that Lexus has a transmission fluid capacity of about 10L. Find the oil cooler return line to the trans and carry out a full fluid flush until you see 100% brand new fluid coming through. Minimal old fluid will have run through anything because the pump pulls straight from the fresh oil in the pan. Of which you are constantly replenishing as the old crude is pushed out.
It goes without saying, Follow at your own risk. I'm just someone on the internet. For more detailed info, there are heaps of great youtube videos covering all these steps but few from start to finish.
I have a lot of respect for transmission shops but they tend to be a little guilty of the old saying . . . Go to a surgeon, they'll recommend surgery!
Directly applicable to this issue. The first videos it appeared that a forward gear was stuck engaged (2nd/3rd). I've experienced first (have to jamb ob the brakes to stop the car lurching) and torque convertor clutch lock up (will stall).
The not going anywhere in reverse would back this up because it is how they make trans brakes for street driven drag cars. Most launch in 2nd to get traction and simultaneously engage reverse to lock the car in place. Then release reverse to launch. this mean you can sit on launch limiter and no brake for ultimate reaction and 60ft times.
Hope that helps someone.
You always have to wonder about the history of how a car has been driven, repaired, and maintained. The inside looks like they carried concrete blocks and bricks to job sites. Looking forward to part three.
Most all Lexus cars of that era and vintage, the seats and interior look like that. If the car was not garage kept. If it's been parked outside most of it's life, forget about it. Something about that era of Lexus leather does not mix well with sunlight.
@@jtjones4727 I did not know that. The few I've looked at were very well maintained and now I'm guessing garaged because they were beautiful inside.
Try "Precision Transmission "... he's in Texas....he's good!!...I hope this helps 👍😎