@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne This is precisely my dilemma when I go about choosing a model, ESPECIALLY if it's 1:18. Sharp details or the same childhood wonder of getting to open parts of the car.
@@ragereset2795 Opening parts are for adults who appreciate the engine details and the history and want to live it. Sealed resins are for pretentious collectors who just want to keep these models on shelves
I've seen some beautiful resin models, but personally I always go with diecast. The reason why, I love engines, I love being able to pop open a model's hood and see a scale detailed engine. I plan to pick up a resin sometime in the future however.
Yes, diecast metal has the advantage of offering opening panels so you can see the internal details. Resin is superior on the sharpness of the surface details but lacks the strength to allow for opening parts. Both have their advantages.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Paint rash doesn't happen with models and can be avoided if you keep models with little humidity and moderate to cold temperature. The resin tend to have issues with the windows and windshields since most of the brands use a really thin plastic which is a mistake IMO.
@@doctorcollector8676 If you wax your diecast models regularly, and with proper climate control, Diecast will outlast the Plastic Resin stuff all day long.
Great video. We want to do miniature car shows, parking lots, car lots, etc: so our question is, can we put a resin car right next to a metal car and they will look compatible? Especially as regards to paint finish. For example, as all aficionados know, you can't put a plastic car or car model next to a diecast; makes the plastic look cheap. So that's the kind of info we are looking for; resin next to metal compatible. Thanks in advance!!
Very good question Margaret. It depends for the quality of the models, there is really good Die-cast as well as lower quality resin. To answer the question really is the matter of really putting the models in question side by side. This said we are producing some of the accessories to complement a scene. We will have them as part of the Hearns Workshop brand, check it out on our website. Thanks
What do the resin cars feel like because I just found them and collected diecast but resin looks way cooler but does it have a plastic type feel and great video btw
Thank you! The Resin cars have a good weight which gives a good feel given the value as well. The finishing is superb and the general accuracy is very good. In particular the gloss finish is very consistent also over clear parts and different materials. The windscreen and in general al clear parts are really thin which gives a very realistic look. In general they are a quire fragile due to much higher level of detail however this is normally not a problem as they are not to be used for playing. Let us know what you think, and if you join our live every Friday at 2pm AEST we are presenting a model each week.
Resin look fantastic on display. But if you are the kind of collector that is attracted to the kinetic quality of things, and likes the 'feel' of them, then die cast/white metal are preferable. Also, as mentioned, you only get opening parts with die cast, which is a huge part of the attraction for many (especially re: engine detail).
Most of the metal die-cast cars are made with a metal body that gives it a good feeling of weight of the model. But also, most die-casts available to buy these days have plastic suspension, wheel struts, wheels and so on. My concern is that if an owner of these die-casts takes them out of the box and just sits them on a shelf as they are (which is the most fun part), will time and the heavy weight of the body of the model wear down and warp the plastic components fore-mentioned?
It is true that diecast metal models have a nice bulk to them from the material. There is always a chance that the plastic components can sag or deform over time. This is dependent on brand, temperature of the environment, and specific models. After many years in the industry, I haven't heard of any major problems.
Resin cars are actually quite heavy, possibly heavier than some diecast. The level of details such as spoilers, mirrors, antennas etc are however quite delicate. This said you would not be playing with most of those cars.. :)
I have bought 2 of the Mad Max 1:64 pursuit cars, they have not arrived yet, I may customize them if the wheels do not move as I open all my models and I like the wheels to turn, but I will make the decision when I have them, thanks for the answer though.
Thanks, I did get the set and I had to make them move, as they were a bit tight, after a little tlc, they move OK, but your right it will never be a track star, but I am glad they move. I dont play with my cars as such, I do however like them to operate.
Hi!:) I need some help,i want some resin cars but i heard its starts to rot/erodes because sunlight or oxigen.its a fake info or the resin models needs special storage method? Sorry for my terrible english
Jerry, The resin has some pros and cons as well as the die cast does. Everyone is free to decide what is they value; could be a cheaper model in die cast with opening doors or a more detailed model in resing. They respond to different expectations and needs.
Plastic and resin have more opportunity for detail than metal. In addition to being more durable since the metal deteriorates over the years, I prefer to pay $ 200 for a model that lasts than for a model that after a few years has rash and peels off the paint. They are not Tonkas, they are scale models and must be handled as such.
I really must offer an alternative opinion. Diecast models are far more durable than resin (look at the Corgi and Dinky Toys of the 1950s which have not deteriorated). Yes, the metal alloy of early pre-war Dinky, like Tootsietoys, did deteriorate but this was eliminated quite quickly. Nowadays the only models which have 'rash' or 'peel' are cheap 'toys' (such as Tonka) rather than models 'for adults'. For many years resin models were vastly inferior to diecast, as the models were prone to warping (known as 'banana-ing') eg Provence Moulage. However, in the last 10-15 years resin technology has improved. A note of warning, however: resin models only a few years old are already showing problems, as many of the fine, photo-etched parts (such as windscreen wipers, mascots, chrome work etc) are falling off due to the glue drying out. Only time will tell how our resin models fare.
@@janknuckey But that is what I say, I invest in scale models and I hope that the time factor does not deteriorate them, since a scale model in resin offers more detail in terms of mold, paint, and details, all of which require care when handling. Many people like to diecast because they have weight, solid and they like to play with them. In my opinion, they are not toys, if treated with care, they last much longer than a diecast. I have Exoto, Autoart, Kyosho, Minichamps, all excellent models, but with paint rash.Thats not happen with plastic or resin.
@@thecsr2944 But you say that 'metal deteriorates over the years' when this is not true. If you are seeing rash/peel on your models that is a problem with the paint application, not the metal. Yes, it may be a bonding reaction between paint/polymer and surface, but it is not because the alloy of the metal is deteriorating. I have 30 different brands of models (diecast MAZAK, white metal and resin) and none of them exhibit 'paint rash' or peel. I keep them on display in cabinets, where the rooms are monitored at a constant temperature. However, if models are in an environment where there are temperature fluctuations then yes, you may see paint rash.
@@janknuckey I understand your point, which is correct, but I mean more that if it is a paint application problem, then why have the plastic and resin models never had paint problems? They have been around for 10 years, and I have only experimented with metal ones, the resin ones are intact, but metal the same problem, also in climate controlled room. Ask yourself why the resin ones are always more expensive than the metal ones. They know. But it is a matter of preference.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne for the price, I dont think they are half bad. I have a shelf at my work and I have 5 of them. They look good from a distance and have good quality. I dont feel I need to spend 200 dollars on a model when I dont collect and buy for decoration.
There's nothing wrong with that. I pick up maisto and bburago for the bulk of my collection, don't have the money to buy a 100$ + car every time. If it's a car I really love however, I don't mind paying the price for an autoart or GMP model.
I prefer diecast over resin..my complaints for resin is the cheap film-like plastic that they used on the car model's windshield and windows, no opening parts, and they're priced on the expensive side. I only buy resin because they offer certain model's that diecast doesn't offer.
Yes, they are different; the film used for the windshield is very fine and much more to scale compared to the die cast model. Once again it is matter of scale and detail rather than functionality for the resin model.
Personally I go with Diecast Metal, resin do offer crisp details, but diecast offers more parts that can be moved, giving much more details to explore (ie engine bay, trunk, and the interior itself), if I am going for a sealed body, I might as well go for 1:43 or smaller scales
The collectors of CMC, Autoart, and Exoto, et al might differ regarding "collectibility." Not all diecasts are created equally, and the same applies to resin as well. But the comparison, while still being elucidating, hinges on two vastly different products. Good video, crisp, and nicely done nonetheless.
Yes, you are very correct in that aspect actually. As in all products there are different level of quality. Our main point was to show the fact that there are alternative products to the the more traditional die cast and explain in theory why someone would spend more for a resin model. You are actually giving us some good input for the next video, we can actually compare the same car by a range of manufacturers. Once again thank you!
If there were two models of the same car at the same scale: with one being diecast and the other being resin; which of the two would be the more collectible car? Considering the resin can produce crisp, cleaner detail and a lot more detail than the diecast.
Exoto and CMC diecasts have amazing details especially Exoto, I think Exoto XS series can rival most resin models. However when it comes to the finer details resin usually wins. And the best resin model I own is just an MR. The difference between a high end diecast and amalgam is going to be even bigger.
It is quite substantial often however you can find 1:18 scale die cast model for less than 80aud when a resin model wont be much less than 600aud pushing often close to 1000aud. Clearly the cheap diecast models are done huge volumes where the resin in less than 100, often 10-20 units👌
While I would agree in general - nowadays supercars more and more are produced utilizing as much carbon fiber as possible. For instance Lamborghini Centinario is fully made of carbon (most versions are simply painted over it). Therefore resin/composite models are more true to life these days in terms of trends.
I just ordered a 1 of 300, a blue - 1982 Cadillac fleetwood d’elegance BOS best of show model it is reslin 1:18 scale & my FIRST reslin model EVER !!! hopefully I love it just as I do all my other diecast models by Danbury and franklin mint.
Dear Hearns hobbies, I'm a beginner in the hobby and it can be rather confusing at times with all the brands and different scale sizes I've been watching quite a bit of youtube just recently and always thought that all models were diecast as for resin I didn't even know what resin was or why it was used I've just watched your video explaining this and found it to be very helpful especially to a beginner such as my self ? I personally quite like the 1/43 it's easier to display it comes with its own protective clear casing and most brands I feel are reasonably priced so please is it possible for you both to do some reviews on SPARK 1/43 F1 MODEL CARS as this I feel would help me when deciding which to buy I have just liked your video and have also subscribed regards, Paul
Hello Paul. Glad you enjoyed our video. 1/43 is a much easier scale to collect as you can fit so many more models in a given space. Most 1/43 are diecast metal with some complicated resin kits available to build. Unfortunately, we specialise in 1/18 with occasional 1/43 cars appearing from time to time. Sorry, we are not an agent for Spark models so I cannot comment on them. Good luck with your collecting and hope our future videos educate and entertain you.
As a collector I must agree with the very high detail of the resin models. But sure this move towards resin will render the high quality diecast models more valuable over time. Like say the full opening AutoArt Koenigsegg model among a lot of others. What do you guys think?
Yes very good point, the latest AutoArt and also BBR in resin with opening panels are the ultimate solution. We are looking forward to review many more of those.
This is a nice video about highlighting the pros of resin in terms of quality in details and the pros of diecast in terms of playability, but I really need to ask an important question. I've been collecting diecast from good brands like AUTOart, Schuco, Minichamps, Norev and it bothers me how they develop paint rash or paint bubbling after several years and in the worse case making the paint dull and rough, as controlling air humidity is difficult and it seems like a common problem with other diecast collectors. My question is do resin models actually have longer lasting paint finish since they are not metal and of course stored in cool place away from the sun ? I would be interested to buy resin from now if they don't develop the same sickness as diecast as I want models that actually last more years, thank you.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed our video. Rash or bubbling in paint on diecast is one of those things that can occur. Resin shouldn't have this problem but there are many kinds of resin, so long term it is difficult to say how they will hold up. The main advantage is the level of detail they have over a diecast metal model.
My like was 200# :Didn't know resin car models cost that much over die casted ones until I fell in love with this hobby and start collecting cars for myself. 75$ for a 1:64 is pretty common sign but I don't know if I I still have rational thinking.
For me, tactility also plays a big part of a model's quality. I collect designer statues as well, and in that world resin models are almost always superior to vinyl ones to me. The 'touch' of resin models always feels more premium. And it doesn't just stop there, there's also a difference of the surface texture and how they reflect lights and colours. With car models, it's between diecast and resin models, though I would say the difference is more forgiving because high quality resin looks and feels quite good already. I still vastly prefer metal when it comes to the tactile experience (and look sometimes), so it's a tradeoff and there's no clear superior or better choice between the two.
I have to disagree with the collectabilty aspect of die cast versus resin. Companies like BBR produce way too many models in terms of both colours and versions of the same car. The numbers produced may be low but the versions are high. Look at CMC for example. A 250 GTO on the second hand market sells for many times more than an equivalent BBR model. Exoto is even higher. So comparing apples with apples high quality die cast will out perform a similar resin model many times over plus you get the benefit of opening parts and engine detail, etc.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Pleasure, but actually most of my statement is irrefutable fact. A 250GTO die cast CMC on the second hand market is more collectable and thus commands a much higher price than a resin 250 GTO BBR model.
The thing that pisses me off about the resin models is that fine detailing (such as photo etched parts) are coming unstuck and falling off, even with models only 2 or 3 years old. This is especially annoyed on 1/43 scale models. I worry about the longevity of these models; will they have deteriorated badly over the years? Time will tell.
It often depends form the manufacturer and their overall quality. The quality brands such as BBR should not have any problem however occasional can happen that one small part could come off due to very fine detail and limited glue that can actually be applied without spillage. Very fine balance. We suggest to keep them in their case for more protection.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I keep them in their cases for protection, inside display cabinets, but the problem persists. For example, the chrome side strips on the 1963 Chevy Impalas by KESS have all peeled off. Also my 1959 Chevy El Caminos by NEO. Collectors will be put off if they find their collections falling apart before their eyes.
I kind of disagree, when you compare cars such as Autoart, Cmc, some Kyoshos, BBRs, etc , especially in the price point of good resin models you will see that it's usually the diecast or composite cars that have better detail. The interior of many resin cars are a bit mediocre and if you ever open one you would see they have a much lower number of pieces. A strong point of the resin models usually is the paint finish and the stance of the car.
Thank you for you opinion. I still think in general that resin models have sharper and superior details to diecast. For me parts count does not influence my appreciation of detail.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne What would be an example of those superior details? The for example the F40 , the car has pretty visible engine and the High End Kyosho has the most detailed engine compared with the BBR, TopSpeed, GT spirit, etc. They made the engine with lots of cables, photo etch parts, also has the deept while in most of the n models is a plate with some detail over it.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne You can't say a resin has superior details when there is minimal to no engine detail in a typical resin car and incredible detail in something like a CMC die cast. Yes the door gaps are sharper on resin but that's just because the lines are scribed instead of being proper panel gaps.
The only thing stopping me from buying a 1:18 amalgam collection Ferrari F1 f208 from 2008 is that i just cant pay $1,000 for a resin model, id do it if it was die-cast, to me it looks too much like a plastic decorative toy instead of a metallic collective piece, does anyone see any advantage for resin over diecast?
I'll never understand the reason of buying a 1/18 if you can't even open it. 1/18 are born for being opened!!!
Yep, i guess everyone like different things. The same argument would by why buying a super detailed 1/18 scale if some of details are not to scale? 😃
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne This is precisely my dilemma when I go about choosing a model, ESPECIALLY if it's 1:18. Sharp details or the same childhood wonder of getting to open parts of the car.
For real! I mean, for the price, why not have opening doors? Why not just buy plastic model car kits, or some 1/43 scale model cars?
What’s to not understand? The reason is very simple. Resin is for people who prefer accuracy and die cast is for people who like playing with toys.
@@ragereset2795 Opening parts are for adults who appreciate the engine details and the history and want to live it. Sealed resins are for pretentious collectors who just want to keep these models on shelves
I've seen some beautiful resin models, but personally I always go with diecast. The reason why, I love engines, I love being able to pop open a model's hood and see a scale detailed engine. I plan to pick up a resin sometime in the future however.
Yes, diecast metal has the advantage of offering opening panels so you can see the internal details. Resin is superior on the sharpness of the surface details but lacks the strength to allow for opening parts. Both have their advantages.
But, resin has durable paint quality, no rash / bubble issue. Unlike diecast, the paint rash tends to appear over time
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Paint rash doesn't happen with models and can be avoided if you keep models with little humidity and moderate to cold temperature.
The resin tend to have issues with the windows and windshields since most of the brands use a really thin plastic which is a mistake IMO.
@@doctorcollector8676 If you wax your diecast models regularly, and with proper climate control, Diecast will outlast the Plastic Resin stuff all day long.
I prefer diecast but also have resin model cars. The quality have to be good.
Yes, the quality is key however it does always come at a cost😃
I take risen over a composite models
Great video. We want to do miniature car shows, parking lots, car lots, etc: so our question is, can we put a resin car right next to a metal car and they will look compatible? Especially as regards to paint finish. For example, as all aficionados know, you can't put a plastic car or car model next to a diecast; makes the plastic look cheap. So that's the kind of info we are looking for; resin next to metal compatible. Thanks in advance!!
Very good question Margaret. It depends for the quality of the models, there is really good Die-cast as well as lower quality resin. To answer the question really is the matter of really putting the models in question side by side. This said we are producing some of the accessories to complement a scene. We will have them as part of the Hearns Workshop brand, check it out on our website. Thanks
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Thanks, we'll keep checking you out!
0:44 One of the most popular Lamborghini and a specialist has no idea and struggles to identify it.
Shocking!
Thank you for your feedback. We are hobby specialists, not Lamborghini specialists.
What do the resin cars feel like because I just found them and collected diecast but resin looks way cooler but does it have a plastic type feel and great video btw
Thank you! The Resin cars have a good weight which gives a good feel given the value as well. The finishing is superb and the general accuracy is very good. In particular the gloss finish is very consistent also over clear parts and different materials. The windscreen and in general al clear parts are really thin which gives a very realistic look. In general they are a quire fragile due to much higher level of detail however this is normally not a problem as they are not to be used for playing. Let us know what you think, and if you join our live every Friday at 2pm AEST we are presenting a model each week.
Resin look fantastic on display. But if you are the kind of collector that is attracted to the kinetic quality of things, and likes the 'feel' of them, then die cast/white metal are preferable. Also, as mentioned, you only get opening parts with die cast, which is a huge part of the attraction for many (especially re: engine detail).
Most of the metal die-cast cars are made with a metal body that gives it a good feeling of weight of the model. But also, most die-casts available to buy these days have plastic suspension, wheel struts, wheels and so on. My concern is that if an owner of these die-casts takes them out of the box and just sits them on a shelf as they are (which is the most fun part), will time and the heavy weight of the body of the model wear down and warp the plastic components fore-mentioned?
It is true that diecast metal models have a nice bulk to them from the material. There is always a chance that the plastic components can sag or deform over time. This is dependent on brand, temperature of the environment, and specific models. After many years in the industry, I haven't heard of any major problems.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Thanks guys.
i mean on one hand the resin is more detailed but the diecast is freaking metal wich make for a heavier car, better touch sensation and more durable.
Resin cars are actually quite heavy, possibly heavier than some diecast. The level of details such as spoilers, mirrors, antennas etc are however quite delicate. This said you would not be playing with most of those cars.. :)
Do resin cars have moving wheels?
This varies. Resin cars are delicate that you would not want to play with the wheels..:)
I have bought 2 of the Mad Max 1:64 pursuit cars, they have not arrived yet, I may customize them if the wheels do not move as I open all my models and I like the wheels to turn, but I will make the decision when I have them, thanks for the answer though.
It varies. Most wheels will turn, but they could never be classed as 'moving', like Hot Wheels/Whizzwheels/Superfast etc.
Thanks, I did get the set and I had to make them move, as they were a bit tight, after a little tlc, they move OK, but your right it will never be a track star, but I am glad they move. I dont play with my cars as such, I do however like them to operate.
Does 3D Print Resin model feels the same as that one?
The 3D print material can feel different. There are many kinds of 3D print resin from soft to rigid.
Hi!:)
I need some help,i want some resin cars but i heard its starts to rot/erodes because sunlight or oxigen.its a fake info or the resin models needs special storage method?
Sorry for my terrible english
Resin will deteriorate over a long time if exposed to sunlight and heat. It is no different to the plastic details on diecast metal models.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thanks:)
Resin is JUNK, overpriced cheap plastic with no openings! Hope you go back to heavy duty Diacast Metal
Jerry, The resin has some pros and cons as well as the die cast does. Everyone is free to decide what is they value; could be a cheaper model in die cast with opening doors or a more detailed model in resing. They respond to different expectations and needs.
I totally agree, I collect both and prefer diecast over resin, and btw real cars are made of metal, not resin!
Just found you. Great channel!
Thank you for visiting!
Plastic and resin have more opportunity for detail than metal. In addition to being more durable since the metal deteriorates over the years, I prefer to pay $ 200 for a model that lasts than for a model that after a few years has rash and peels off the paint. They are not Tonkas, they are scale models and must be handled as such.
Yes! thank you for adding this info!
I really must offer an alternative opinion. Diecast models are far more durable than resin (look at the Corgi and Dinky Toys of the 1950s which have not deteriorated). Yes, the metal alloy of early pre-war Dinky, like Tootsietoys, did deteriorate but this was eliminated quite quickly. Nowadays the only models which have 'rash' or 'peel' are cheap 'toys' (such as Tonka) rather than models 'for adults'. For many years resin models were vastly inferior to diecast, as the models were prone to warping (known as 'banana-ing') eg Provence Moulage. However, in the last 10-15 years resin technology has improved. A note of warning, however: resin models only a few years old are already showing problems, as many of the fine, photo-etched parts (such as windscreen wipers, mascots, chrome work etc) are falling off due to the glue drying out. Only time will tell how our resin models fare.
@@janknuckey But that is what I say, I invest in scale models and I hope that the time factor does not deteriorate them, since a scale model in resin offers more detail in terms of mold, paint, and details, all of which require care when handling. Many people like to diecast because they have weight, solid and they like to play with them. In my opinion, they are not toys, if treated with care, they last much longer than a diecast. I have Exoto, Autoart, Kyosho, Minichamps, all excellent models, but with paint rash.Thats not happen with plastic or resin.
@@thecsr2944 But you say that 'metal deteriorates over the years' when this is not true. If you are seeing rash/peel on your models that is a problem with the paint application, not the metal. Yes, it may be a bonding reaction between paint/polymer and surface, but it is not because the alloy of the metal is deteriorating. I have 30 different brands of models (diecast MAZAK, white metal and resin) and none of them exhibit 'paint rash' or peel. I keep them on display in cabinets, where the rooms are monitored at a constant temperature. However, if models are in an environment where there are temperature fluctuations then yes, you may see paint rash.
@@janknuckey I understand your point, which is correct, but I mean more that if it is a paint application problem, then why have the plastic and resin models never had paint problems? They have been around for 10 years, and I have only experimented with metal ones, the resin ones are intact, but metal the same problem, also in climate controlled room. Ask yourself why the resin ones are always more expensive than the metal ones. They know. But it is a matter of preference.
I think I will stick with the 15 dollar maisto models at Costco. Hahaha
$15 dollar Maisto look like a $15 dollar model...
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne for the price, I dont think they are half bad. I have a shelf at my work and I have 5 of them. They look good from a distance and have good quality. I dont feel I need to spend 200 dollars on a model when I dont collect and buy for decoration.
There's nothing wrong with that. I pick up maisto and bburago for the bulk of my collection, don't have the money to buy a 100$ + car every time. If it's a car I really love however, I don't mind paying the price for an autoart or GMP model.
Would love to see somebody make a video of a sealed resin going through a shredder lol
What a waste of perfectly good resin.
I'd be down to see these, lol! 😜
Diecast
Cheers!
Diecast anyday, everyday 365 days
Thank you for your opinion!
I prefer diecast over resin..my complaints for resin is the cheap film-like plastic that they used on the car model's windshield and windows, no opening parts, and they're priced on the expensive side. I only buy resin because they offer certain model's that diecast doesn't offer.
Yes, they are different; the film used for the windshield is very fine and much more to scale compared to the die cast model. Once again it is matter of scale and detail rather than functionality for the resin model.
Personally I go with Diecast Metal, resin do offer crisp details, but diecast offers more parts that can be moved, giving much more details to explore (ie engine bay, trunk, and the interior itself), if I am going for a sealed body, I might as well go for 1:43 or smaller scales
Yes, great point of view!😀👌
100% agreed
I only collect 1:18 scale diecast
Nice work
Diecast is better due to moving parts
Yes, that is a plus.
The collectors of CMC, Autoart, and Exoto, et al might differ regarding "collectibility." Not all diecasts are created equally, and the same applies to resin as well. But the comparison, while still being elucidating, hinges on two vastly different products. Good video, crisp, and nicely done nonetheless.
Yes, you are very correct in that aspect actually. As in all products there are different level of quality. Our main point was to show the fact that there are alternative products to the the more traditional die cast and explain in theory why someone would spend more for a resin model. You are actually giving us some good input for the next video, we can actually compare the same car by a range of manufacturers. Once again thank you!
If there were two models of the same car at the same scale: with one being diecast and the other being resin; which of the two would be the more collectible car? Considering the resin can produce crisp, cleaner detail and a lot more detail than the diecast.
Well the resin would have a much higher level of detail and realic finishes. So resin model i would say.
I'd choose the diecast in a heartbeat, it's a no brainer. I don't like resin at all cause you can't play with them, they don't have any moving parts.
Generally speaking, the answer is the model made with the smallest production run.
@@michaeltrumph121 yea i agree resin models doesnt allow u to admire the craft of the real thing in smaller scale.
Exoto and CMC diecasts have amazing details especially Exoto, I think Exoto XS series can rival most resin models. However when it comes to the finer details resin usually wins. And the best resin model I own is just an MR. The difference between a high end diecast and amalgam is going to be even bigger.
Thank you Ray, great feedback. And yes.. the MR are very very fine. We received some recently.
What is the average price difference between Diecast and Resin models?
It is quite substantial often however you can find 1:18 scale die cast model for less than 80aud when a resin model wont be much less than 600aud pushing often close to 1000aud. Clearly the cheap diecast models are done huge volumes where the resin in less than 100, often 10-20 units👌
I prefer diecast over resin because, well, real cars are made of metal not plastic!
Thank you for sharing your preference!
While I would agree in general - nowadays supercars more and more are produced utilizing as much carbon fiber as possible. For instance Lamborghini Centinario is fully made of carbon (most versions are simply painted over it). Therefore resin/composite models are more true to life these days in terms of trends.
I just ordered a 1 of 300, a blue - 1982 Cadillac fleetwood d’elegance BOS best of show model it is reslin 1:18 scale & my FIRST reslin model EVER !!! hopefully I love it just as I do all my other diecast models by Danbury and franklin mint.
Sounds good!
good info
Thank you
Dear Hearns hobbies, I'm a beginner in the hobby and it can be rather confusing at times with all the brands and different scale sizes I've been watching quite a bit of youtube just recently and always thought that all models were diecast as for resin I didn't even know what resin was or why it was used I've just watched your video explaining this and found it to be very helpful especially to a beginner such as my self ? I personally quite like the 1/43 it's easier to display it comes with its own protective clear casing and most brands I feel are reasonably priced so please is it possible for you both to do some reviews on SPARK 1/43 F1 MODEL CARS as this I feel would help me when deciding which to buy I have just liked your video and have also subscribed regards, Paul
Hello Paul. Glad you enjoyed our video. 1/43 is a much easier scale to collect as you can fit so many more models in a given space. Most 1/43 are diecast metal with some complicated resin kits available to build. Unfortunately, we specialise in 1/18 with occasional 1/43 cars appearing from time to time. Sorry, we are not an agent for Spark models so I cannot comment on them. Good luck with your collecting and hope our future videos educate and entertain you.
As a collector I must agree with the very high detail of the resin models. But sure this move towards resin will render the high quality diecast models more valuable over time. Like say the full opening AutoArt Koenigsegg model among a lot of others. What do you guys think?
Yes very good point, the latest AutoArt and also BBR in resin with opening panels are the ultimate solution. We are looking forward to review many more of those.
This is a nice video about highlighting the pros of resin in terms of quality in details and the pros of diecast in terms of playability, but I really need to ask an important question. I've been collecting diecast from good brands like AUTOart, Schuco, Minichamps, Norev and it bothers me how they develop paint rash or paint bubbling after several years and in the worse case making the paint dull and rough, as controlling air humidity is difficult and it seems like a common problem with other diecast collectors. My question is do resin models actually have longer lasting paint finish since they are not metal and of course stored in cool place away from the sun ? I would be interested to buy resin from now if they don't develop the same sickness as diecast as I want models that actually last more years, thank you.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed our video. Rash or bubbling in paint on diecast is one of those things that can occur. Resin shouldn't have this problem but there are many kinds of resin, so long term it is difficult to say how they will hold up. The main advantage is the level of detail they have over a diecast metal model.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I see, thank you for your insight.
Thanks for the info - just what I wanted to know
Great!
cool video
Thank you!
My like was 200# :Didn't know resin car models cost that much over die casted ones until I fell in love with this hobby and start collecting cars for myself. 75$ for a 1:64 is pretty common sign but I don't know if I I still have rational thinking.
As you become a collector, your definition of expensive changes after you can appreciate the differences. Perfectly normal thinking.
For me, tactility also plays a big part of a model's quality. I collect designer statues as well, and in that world resin models are almost always superior to vinyl ones to me. The 'touch' of resin models always feels more premium. And it doesn't just stop there, there's also a difference of the surface texture and how they reflect lights and colours. With car models, it's between diecast and resin models, though I would say the difference is more forgiving because high quality resin looks and feels quite good already. I still vastly prefer metal when it comes to the tactile experience (and look sometimes), so it's a tradeoff and there's no clear superior or better choice between the two.
Yes, I agree with your opinion. Both types have their advantages and disadvantages.
I have to disagree with the collectabilty aspect of die cast versus resin. Companies like BBR produce way too many models in terms of both colours and versions of the same car. The numbers produced may be low but the versions are high. Look at CMC for example. A 250 GTO on the second hand market sells for many times more than an equivalent BBR model. Exoto is even higher.
So comparing apples with apples high quality die cast will out perform a similar resin model many times over plus you get the benefit of opening parts and engine detail, etc.
Thank you for your point of view.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Pleasure, but actually most of my statement is irrefutable fact. A 250GTO die cast CMC on the second hand market is more collectable and thus commands a much higher price than a resin 250 GTO BBR model.
Great explanation ♥️ next time please turn off your phone 😊
Thank you, I will next time.
The thing that pisses me off about the resin models is that fine detailing (such as photo etched parts) are coming unstuck and falling off, even with models only 2 or 3 years old. This is especially annoyed on 1/43 scale models. I worry about the longevity of these models; will they have deteriorated badly over the years? Time will tell.
It often depends form the manufacturer and their overall quality. The quality brands such as BBR should not have any problem however occasional can happen that one small part could come off due to very fine detail and limited glue that can actually be applied without spillage. Very fine balance. We suggest to keep them in their case for more protection.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I keep them in their cases for protection, inside display cabinets, but the problem persists. For example, the chrome side strips on the 1963 Chevy Impalas by KESS have all peeled off. Also my 1959 Chevy El Caminos by NEO. Collectors will be put off if they find their collections falling apart before their eyes.
Now that makes sense
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for watching!
I kind of disagree, when you compare cars such as Autoart, Cmc, some Kyoshos, BBRs, etc , especially in the price point of good resin models you will see that it's usually the diecast or composite cars that have better detail.
The interior of many resin cars are a bit mediocre and if you ever open one you would see they have a much lower number of pieces.
A strong point of the resin models usually is the paint finish and the stance of the car.
Thank you for you opinion. I still think in general that resin models have sharper and superior details to diecast. For me parts count does not influence my appreciation of detail.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne What would be an example of those superior details? The for example the F40 , the car has pretty visible engine and the High End Kyosho has the most detailed engine compared with the BBR, TopSpeed, GT spirit, etc.
They made the engine with lots of cables, photo etch parts, also has the deept while in most of the n models is a plate with some detail over it.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne You can't say a resin has superior details when there is minimal to no engine detail in a typical resin car and incredible detail in something like a CMC die cast. Yes the door gaps are sharper on resin but that's just because the lines are scribed instead of being proper panel gaps.
The only thing stopping me from buying a 1:18 amalgam collection Ferrari F1 f208 from 2008 is that i just cant pay $1,000 for a resin model, id do it if it was die-cast, to me it looks too much like a plastic decorative toy instead of a metallic collective piece, does anyone see any advantage for resin over diecast?