You are welcome. I’m glad it made sense for you and you are able to do your own stuff. Be careful though, it’s addictive and you will want to mould everything in sight and you will waste a lot of rubber which is not cheap. The way I look at it, is the part I want to copy readily available and a reasonable price? If so , don’t waste the rubber. If it is a hard to get piece and you think you will use a lot of them, them go for it. The body I did in this video is extremely rare and o use a lot of them. I have about 6 different bodies I cast and had built over 40 last year and currently have 8 builds on the go, so we’ll worth the investment for me. Good luck with it all.
If you don’t need an LJ urgently, check out Fulbore Models, he is just about to release a full detail 3D printed LJ kit. I have built some of his utes and nearly finished a wagon, they are beautifully detailed, much better than just a resin body.
@@petermartin4691 it is a silicone rubber called Vario by Barnes here in Australia. It has a slow cure rate, can take up to 24 hours before you can remove your original part and start casting but the big benefit is you can degas it, remove all the bubbles in a vacuum chamber.
3D printing is great for most things but still has its downside, I sell a lot of my resin bodies to drag slotcar guys and they stand up pretty well, whereas the 3D resin printed bodies are way too brittle, I’m sure they are working on improving this but at the moment they don’t last real long. I’m to simple to get into 3D printing, haha, don’t have the computer skills so I’ll stick with what I know, there is still a place for it.
I bought this same resin but I can't get that much time like you did before it "kicks". Maybe temperature related? It's about 28c here in Thailand and I only get about 2 minutes when it's advertised as 5 minutes, but other than that I like the resin.
Hi! How are you?? Your work its amazing, I cant find you ok Facebook now, you change your page name? I made one mold Following your tutorial vídeos, and it came out pretty good but im having troubles with really small dots, micro bubbles on the bodies after casting. You can give me any tip with that? Thanks in advance!!
Hey, No, Facebook page is the same as this page. Depends on the resin you use, if you use a fast set resin like I do, you just have to mix it very carefully to minimise the bubbles. If you use a slow set then you could use a pressure pot, which squashes the bubbles.
That was so satisfying to watch for some reason 🤣. Turned out perfect. Your a pro!👍
Haha, thanks Monique. Yes it is satisfying when it comes out right.
Love seeing this Kirk! It’s a lot more work than a lot of people realise. Love my Monaro 😉👍
And this is only the start of the process.
Great job Kirk, thanks for sharing your process
Thank you for this series, I learned so much and am now able to cast my own bodies and parts. It's a lot more involved than people realize.
You are welcome. I’m glad it made sense for you and you are able to do your own stuff. Be careful though, it’s addictive and you will want to mould everything in sight and you will waste a lot of rubber which is not cheap.
The way I look at it, is the part I want to copy readily available and a reasonable price? If so , don’t waste the rubber. If it is a hard to get piece and you think you will use a lot of them, them go for it.
The body I did in this video is extremely rare and o use a lot of them. I have about 6 different bodies I cast and had built over 40 last year and currently have 8 builds on the go, so we’ll worth the investment for me.
Good luck with it all.
@@hktgcustommodelcars5706 you wouldn't by chance have a Holden Torana LJ body would you?
No I don’t sorry. There is a guy on eBay that has them, Resinblob is his name.
@@hktgcustommodelcars5706 thanks, I'll look into him, and I must say you are 100 percent right, this casting is very addicting! 😆
If you don’t need an LJ urgently, check out Fulbore Models, he is just about to release a full detail 3D printed LJ kit. I have built some of his utes and nearly finished a wagon, they are beautifully detailed, much better than just a resin body.
That’s pretty cool
Beautiful finish straight out of the mold !
As you stated, not much to clean up there.
Thanks mate, appreciate it.
That’s the plan,I hate nothing more than spending time cleaning bodies up before I get to the painting stage.
10/10 clean
Hi..it is great proces inspiration...i want only,what material did you used...name...what is it?resin..and what material for form?
@@petermartin4691 it is a silicone rubber called Vario by Barnes here in Australia. It has a slow cure rate, can take up to 24 hours before you can remove your original part and start casting but the big benefit is you can degas it, remove all the bubbles in a vacuum chamber.
Came out nice to use no degasser. Everyone 3d prints everything but nothing beats this if you have an original to cast from.
3D printing is great for most things but still has its downside, I sell a lot of my resin bodies to drag slotcar guys and they stand up pretty well, whereas the 3D resin printed bodies are way too brittle, I’m sure they are working on improving this but at the moment they don’t last real long. I’m to simple to get into 3D printing, haha, don’t have the computer skills so I’ll stick with what I know, there is still a place for it.
What kind of resin did you use
I use Procast from Barnes here in Australia. It’s fast cure and is nice and flexible.
I bought this same resin but I can't get that much time like you did before it "kicks". Maybe temperature related? It's about 28c here in Thailand and I only get about 2 minutes when it's advertised as 5 minutes, but other than that I like the resin.
Great!
Could you show us how to cast a Tamiya 1/35 soldier?
I don’t do that kind of stuff sorry, only cars but it would be a very similar process.
Hi! How are you?? Your work its amazing, I cant find you ok Facebook now, you change your page name? I made one mold Following your tutorial vídeos, and it came out pretty good but im having troubles with really small dots, micro bubbles on the bodies after casting. You can give me any tip with that? Thanks in advance!!
Hey,
No, Facebook page is the same as this page.
Depends on the resin you use, if you use a fast set resin like I do, you just have to mix it very carefully to minimise the bubbles. If you use a slow set then you could use a pressure pot, which squashes the bubbles.
great tutorial, watched all of them! You have said "in the next video" but never uploaded again after this. Hope you are doing well!
Thank you, glad you liked them. Yes all well, just life gets in the way. Planning on doing some build up videos but not sure when.
@@hktgcustommodelcars5706That' s good to hear! I' ve turnt on the bell for the notification as well
Which type of resin did you use?
I used Barnes Procast.
No problem