Good video! I have been searching like a madman for a video like this. My ring around the rear window is cracked and leaks as well. Thank you. I am sure I'll be watching this video several more times.
Clarified LOTS of information that I was searching for , as knowing that the trim piece doest really do any sealing. Mine was leaking from the window. And perfect camera angles.
Sure save me a ton of time guessing at it and breaking things. The glass seal was a challenge to remove. Some guys use a putty knife, which to me was going to take forever. So I used an oscillating tool with a cutter blade and as steady a hand as possible, and cut through the old sealant a lot quicker, and the glass popped right out; very easy. Nice video.
I believe it’s attached and all one part. That part number is 3L3Z-1542430-AAB for the solid back window on a regular cab, and 3L3Z-1842430-AAB for the sliding window and super cabs. They’re discontinued though, so finding a replacement may be tough. eBay or a local pick and pull place would probably be your best bet.
I never did actually. It got damaged twice. A large rock from a dump truck, and a tree branch. I repaired it both times, but after the second time the clear coat reacted with the resin and started to wrinkle up. The truck is in storage right now due to a cracked piston, but when I jump back on it I will get the roof sorted and hopefully not have any weird accidents again!
I have a 2001 Ford f150 and during the winter, the inside part of the front windshield builds up a lot of condensation. Do you think i should reseal the back window as a first step of fixing the condensation? Thanks
You could certainly take a look, but you might want to investigate more around the other windows as well. Also look for other areas water could be coming in like between the cowl and firewall. Lastly, while it’s not a long term solution you can fill a tube sock with cat litter and put it under one of your seats to absorb excess moisture in the air.
That’s like what is used on most windshields and rear windows. If I were to do it all over again I probably would use it. I just wanted to use what was there for simplicity. The only thing I’m not sure about is the primer you’d have to put on the plastic trim. Typically that primer brushes on the glass and the metal surface the glass is bonding to. I don’t have any reason to think you wouldn’t get good adhesion on the plastic, but it’s something I would verify before doing it.
Kinda a long story. Before I could get footage of the final product a rock hit it and damaged a section of it. I fixed it, but that area had a chemical reaction with the new clear coat I used. Then I cracked a piston in the engine so it’s been in storage until I can just do a bumper to bumper restoration on it. Maybe start sometime after the new year.
Hey! I’ve got a video I’m trying to wrap up to show how to do it. My schedule has been all over the place lol. I’m actually working on some finishing touches today. I hope to have the video up within the next 2 weeks or so. Stay tuned!
@slv9662 I did not. Before I could film a proper outro for it, a large rock hit it and damaged it a bit. I started getting it fixed, but cracked a piston so the truck has been in storage ever since. I have a donor lined up to do a drivetrain swap and some other creature comforts. Just hasn’t been high on the priority list at the moment.
Mine already had it. I looked on tascaparts.com for you, but I only see a part number for the plastic molding, not the gasket trim. The good news though is other than cosmetics it doesn’t do a lot for the actual leak. That’s going to be from the sealant around the window itself.
There may be minor differences with the interior trim removal, but the rear glass and the concept of the repair should be the same. Be mindful of defroster connections if you have them.
Maybe, but I don’t think so. Since it’s the housing the glass is attached to that’s actually making the seal, and that housing is further in than the outer edge of the glass, you would probably have a hard time getting all the way around, on top of potentially making a mess. And going around just the outside of the trim won’t really do anything. The trim isn’t responsible for any real sealing to speak of.
Where did you get the seal that you used what’s it called and also what seal do you have under the beauty ring I’ve been trying to find it but haven’t been able to
I mean that should fix it lol, but unless the plastic surround where the sealant attaches is cracked you should just have to replace the old, cracked sealant.
What weather stripping did you use between then plastic "beauty ring" and the top of the cab? (noticed it on your leak test shot). I've re-sealed the window and have water coming in on the leak test. Noticed there is a machined hole in the cab above the sealed window, behind the rear accent light.
I just used a butyl rubber window sealant from Amazon. I added extra around each stud on the back of the window and followed the recessed channel that goes all the way around. There should be a grommet or something for that hole. The wires for your high mount light feed through it and the grommet plus the hole
After reading your comment again, the piece I think you're referring to was just on the surrounding trim piece already. It was not something I added, sorry.
Straight to the point I like. Its hard to find "how to" videos these days without a bunch of rambling on in the beginning! Subscriber earned.
Haha, I appreciate it!
Here I was about to load mine with silicone. Glad you tested that for me first. Great video, and thank you.
Haha no problem. Good luck!
Great video. I’ve just purchased everything I need plus some acoustic insulation to put on the ceiling and at back of the seats.
Nice work my friend. I wish I still had my beautiful 1999 red Ford F150 manual transmission truck!
Thanks 👍
Good video! I have been searching like a madman for a video like this. My ring around the rear window is cracked and leaks as well. Thank you. I am sure I'll be watching this video several more times.
Thanks, glad to hear it!
My roof just started leaking and I love how strait forward this video is ill be using it for ill let you know how the new seal works!
Clarified LOTS of information that I was searching for , as knowing that the trim piece doest really do any sealing. Mine was leaking from the window. And perfect camera angles.
1 question, Mine was missing the rubber between the trim and the Body. Where can I find that ?
I’m glad you found it helpful!
I think it comes as part of the reveal molding (3L3Z-1542430-AAB). The molding is expensive though. Best bet is checking eBay or a junk yard.
Sure save me a ton of time guessing at it and breaking things. The glass seal was a challenge to remove. Some guys use a putty knife, which to me was going to take forever. So I used an oscillating tool with a cutter blade and as steady a hand as possible, and cut through the old sealant a lot quicker, and the glass popped right out; very easy. Nice video.
Thank you! I'm glad it helped.
Good video! Well done!
now I KNOW what to do! thanks!!
Sure thing! Good luck!
I have a comment as to if you know the part number for that rubber grommet on the beauty ring.. where it touches your carbon fiber roof?
I believe it’s attached and all one part. That part number is 3L3Z-1542430-AAB for the solid back window on a regular cab, and 3L3Z-1842430-AAB for the sliding window and super cabs. They’re discontinued though, so finding a replacement may be tough. eBay or a local pick and pull place would probably be your best bet.
@@GooseAutoWorks I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly!! I was really shooting in the dark asking on an old video. Ty ty
I have the same rusty roof on my f150. Did you upload the carbon top install? I can't seem to find it. Thanks!
I never did actually. It got damaged twice. A large rock from a dump truck, and a tree branch. I repaired it both times, but after the second time the clear coat reacted with the resin and started to wrinkle up. The truck is in storage right now due to a cracked piston, but when I jump back on it I will get the roof sorted and hopefully not have any weird accidents again!
I have a 2001 Ford f150 and during the winter, the inside part of the front windshield builds up a lot of condensation. Do you think i should reseal the back window as a first step of fixing the condensation? Thanks
You could certainly take a look, but you might want to investigate more around the other windows as well. Also look for other areas water could be coming in like between the cowl and firewall. Lastly, while it’s not a long term solution you can fill a tube sock with cat litter and put it under one of your seats to absorb excess moisture in the air.
Recently bought one of these trucks and ended up with a soaked seat and puddle on the floor after a rainy day..I’ll be doing this tomorrow.
Yeah I had a tiny mushroom growing out of one of my subs before I got it all fixed lol. Were you able to get it knocked out?
Would you recommend using 3M Windo-Weld Fast Urethane Epoxy Compound?
That’s like what is used on most windshields and rear windows. If I were to do it all over again I probably would use it. I just wanted to use what was there for simplicity. The only thing I’m not sure about is the primer you’d have to put on the plastic trim. Typically that primer brushes on the glass and the metal surface the glass is bonding to. I don’t have any reason to think you wouldn’t get good adhesion on the plastic, but it’s something I would verify before doing it.
what happend to the vod of carbon fibering the top
Kinda a long story. Before I could get footage of the final product a rock hit it and damaged a section of it. I fixed it, but that area had a chemical reaction with the new clear coat I used. Then I cracked a piston in the engine so it’s been in storage until I can just do a bumper to bumper restoration on it. Maybe start sometime after the new year.
Would you know if the disassembly steps also applies to F150s with the rear power window? I have the power sliding window on a supercrew.
I would imagine they would for the most part, but obviously you’ll have mechanisms and wires to potentially contend with as well.
How did you make the carbon fiber roof ?? I’d like to know I have the same truck would like to do this to my truck ! 💯
Hey! I’ve got a video I’m trying to wrap up to show how to do it. My schedule has been all over the place lol. I’m actually working on some finishing touches today. I hope to have the video up within the next 2 weeks or so. Stay tuned!
@@GooseAutoWorks did you upload the video ? I can’t find it 😭
@slv9662 I did not. Before I could film a proper outro for it, a large rock hit it and damaged it a bit. I started getting it fixed, but cracked a piston so the truck has been in storage ever since. I have a donor lined up to do a drivetrain swap and some other creature comforts. Just hasn’t been high on the priority list at the moment.
Where did you get the rubber piece that goes across your rear window trim (moulding, beauty ring) ? You can see it when you water test your work.
Mine already had it. I looked on tascaparts.com for you, but I only see a part number for the plastic molding, not the gasket trim. The good news though is other than cosmetics it doesn’t do a lot for the actual leak. That’s going to be from the sealant around the window itself.
Thanks so much! Can you take off the beauty ring and leave the glass in?
No, the glass overlaps the inner lip. Wish you could though
I think at the end you answered my question. Glass comes out first and then the ring comes off, correct?
Yes. And then ring back on, then glass
@@GooseAutoWorks I really appreciate your help. I could see it overlapped but was told wrong by a service technician. Thanks again!!!!
Is this similar to the back window on a crew cab?
There may be minor differences with the interior trim removal, but the rear glass and the concept of the repair should be the same. Be mindful of defroster connections if you have them.
Can't you just pull the outside trim off and seal it with silicone?
Maybe, but I don’t think so. Since it’s the housing the glass is attached to that’s actually making the seal, and that housing is further in than the outer edge of the glass, you would probably have a hard time getting all the way around, on top of potentially making a mess. And going around just the outside of the trim won’t really do anything. The trim isn’t responsible for any real sealing to speak of.
Where did you get the seal that you used what’s it called and also what seal do you have under the beauty ring I’ve been trying to find it but haven’t been able to
I got it on Amazon. It’s butyl rubber window sealant
What kind of seal was that
Butyl rubber. Here's what I used: amzn.to/3zBnimQ 2 years so far and zero issues.
I have to do this to my lightning
Yeah it’s sucks it’s so common and has to be fixed, but it’s nice not having water hit you in the back of the neck when you’re braking lol
I called for a quote at a place locally. I was told they have to replace the entire window, and want over a thousand dollars for that. 😳
I mean that should fix it lol, but unless the plastic surround where the sealant attaches is cracked you should just have to replace the old, cracked sealant.
@@GooseAutoWorks They claimed the seal wasn't replaceable, the entire window has to be done.
What weather stripping did you use between then plastic "beauty ring" and the top of the cab? (noticed it on your leak test shot).
I've re-sealed the window and have water coming in on the leak test. Noticed there is a machined hole in the cab above the sealed window, behind the rear accent light.
I just used a butyl rubber window sealant from Amazon. I added extra around each stud on the back of the window and followed the recessed channel that goes all the way around. There should be a grommet or something for that hole. The wires for your high mount light feed through it and the grommet plus the hole
After reading your comment again, the piece I think you're referring to was just on the surrounding trim piece already. It was not something I added, sorry.
But good video otherwise