I just resealed my rear window and replaced both cab seal/strips while the window was out. Thank you for the video! My cab corner strips were just old and dry rotted so i wanted to replace them but after reading more I am glad I did because some people said the rivets caused their leak.
Thank you. Going to replace my rear window on the F150 limited. Defrost line is broken in the base of the window. Slider works. Your video showed me what I wanted to know about removing the rear window.
I have the 2013 extended cab. Water would just pour in through the brake light (even the one I got from Amazon recommended by youtubers) and the upper corners of the back window, where the roof channel with the black plastic cover and rivet meets the glass. I also have a leak in the passenger cab vent between the cab and the truck bed. I've had it with leaking, and so I just used black high temp RTV to seal the whole roof channel, and a thin bead of clear RTV on the top of the glass and read brake light. Now I need to fix the leak in the vent (plastic piece between the cab and the bed).
Hell yeah. If it wasn't the 3rd brake light leaking then I'll definitely be doing this for my 2010. Is running silicone a bad substitute for this method? I'm concerned about the looks I guess. Thanks!
Use a piece of making tape to get make a border around the meticulously cleaned repair area. Use 3m window weld ($25), and peel off the tape quickly before it dries. The window weld may last as long as the truck. If budget constraints force you to use silicone, there's No telling how long it will last.
My 2009 has been leaking since it was under warranty, the kept claiming it was the third brake light, it was not. This is exactly what i was trying to tell them, its out of warranty and i have mold throughout my ride. Still pissed about it, at this point i'm just hoping the truck burst into flames.
Right after he removes the tape from the new 3m seal on the glass he shows the back of the cab and there is a lot of residue left from the OEM seal. Will the 3M window weld tape seal to that residue? If it all needs to be removed what works the best?
I just replaced mine last weekend. I used a 3/8 bead. Maybe that was too big because I can see some of the new strip got squeezed out of the window once I tightened it down. Is this normal?
@@Theautobodyguy well, if it holds I'll live with it. If it leaks...I'll take it to a glass shop. This was a miserable experience I never want to relive.
@@bretlinden8248how did the thicker bead hold up? I'm about to do this repair on my truck and I'm about to order the windoweld and I don't mind a little squeeze out as long as it is 100% leak free
Great video but ? On the application of the new seal to the window. I was able to get the old seal out but both upper corners seam to not have a groove for the seal to sit in, is this correct?
@@Theautobodyguy that's what I did thank you. My roof leak was not from the window it was from the wrap over corner moldings at the top of the cab but to replace them I needed to remove the window.
The plastic corner moldings just lead to the upper corners of the glass -- it is pouring water into the area behind the glass. And if the window seal is compromised, water will get in. So it is the same issue as the window gasget. I got so fed up with water that I just caulked the hell out of the corner moldings and carried it to the rear window. Black RTV. Then I used a thin bead of clear RTV along the top of the window and down part of the sides (used masking tape for a cleaner line). My rear brake light also leaked badly, even with a replacement. I clear RTVed that also. AND my cab vent leaks too. The small plastic vent between the cab and bed. Gotta fix that too.
@@secretarysmith3307 not in this case. It was the rivets on both mouldings at the top of the cab. The plastic coating of the rivet itself had worn out and allowed water to leak in from the top of the cab.
@@epicsave635 well maybe I had that issue too. Amazing how many ways Ford has allowed water to get into their trucks! I drilled the rivets, slopped in some black Rtv, re-riveted the hole, and slopped more rtv on top. Desperate times called for desperate measures.
It’s called Butyl tape and we get it from the local auto parts store like NAPA. They all should carry it in a couple different sizes. I wouldn’t worry about the brand.
I just resealed my rear window and replaced both cab seal/strips while the window was out. Thank you for the video! My cab corner strips were just old and dry rotted so i wanted to replace them but after reading more I am glad I did because some people said the rivets caused their leak.
Thank you. Going to replace my rear window on the F150 limited. Defrost line is broken in the base of the window. Slider works. Your video showed me what I wanted to know about removing the rear window.
Mine was leaking. The 9mm bolts were pretty loose. Torqued them down and no leaks. Thanks for the video got me where I needed to be.
Super helpfu video, exact;y what I was looking for so I liked and subscribed!
I have the 2013 extended cab.
Water would just pour in through the brake light (even the one I got from Amazon recommended by youtubers) and the upper corners of the back window, where the roof channel with the black plastic cover and rivet meets the glass. I also have a leak in the passenger cab vent between the cab and the truck bed.
I've had it with leaking, and so I just used black high temp RTV to seal the whole roof channel, and a thin bead of clear RTV on the top of the glass and read brake light.
Now I need to fix the leak in the vent (plastic piece between the cab and the bed).
How did it go, I’m working on it today. I put silicone along the top of window but when I pour water there it still manages to get in somehow
What about avoiding the work of taking the back apart and just adding some silicone caulk around the window trim?
Did mine today. Nowhere near as painful as I thought. Hopefully it holes up.
What are the torque specs for the bolts holding the window in? Thanks for the video!
I'm not sure, I just make sure to go around to each nut a couple times to snug them down as the new seal bead takes a bit to compress.
Hell yeah. If it wasn't the 3rd brake light leaking then I'll definitely be doing this for my 2010. Is running silicone a bad substitute for this method? I'm concerned about the looks I guess. Thanks!
Nicholas Davis Nice! Silicone will likely seal the leak, but you will definitely take a hit in the cosmetics dept.😂
Use a piece of making tape to get make a border around the meticulously cleaned repair area. Use 3m window weld ($25), and peel off the tape quickly before it dries. The window weld may last as long as the truck. If budget constraints force you to use silicone, there's No telling how long it will last.
My 2009 has been leaking since it was under warranty, the kept claiming it was the third brake light, it was not. This is exactly what i was trying to tell them, its out of warranty and i have mold throughout my ride. Still pissed about it, at this point i'm just hoping the truck burst into flames.
Dang!
Right after he removes the tape from the new 3m seal on the glass he shows the back of the cab and there is a lot of residue left from the OEM seal. Will the 3M window weld tape seal to that residue? If it all needs to be removed what works the best?
Remove it all is the safest play.
I just replaced mine last weekend. I used a 3/8 bead. Maybe that was too big because I can see some of the new strip got squeezed out of the window once I tightened it down. Is this normal?
Sounds like your probably right, use a smaller bead and it won’t be visible
@@Theautobodyguy well, if it holds I'll live with it. If it leaks...I'll take it to a glass shop. This was a miserable experience I never want to relive.
@@bretlinden8248how did the thicker bead hold up? I'm about to do this repair on my truck and I'm about to order the windoweld and I don't mind a little squeeze out as long as it is 100% leak free
Did you clean the sealing surfaces completely or install as shown with the residual adhesive? I’m not sure how clean the surfaces need to be.
That's what I'm wondering.
Could you just use caulking?
Turn off the noise!!
David Parker sorry about that man, working on getting better with it.
Great video but ? On the application of the new seal to the window. I was able to get the old seal out but both upper corners seam to not have a groove for the seal to sit in, is this correct?
epic save that sounds right, I just make sure to have a continuous bead regardless of the channel.
@@Theautobodyguy that's what I did thank you. My roof leak was not from the window it was from the wrap over corner moldings at the top of the cab but to replace them I needed to remove the window.
The plastic corner moldings just lead to the upper corners of the glass -- it is pouring water into the area behind the glass. And if the window seal is compromised, water will get in. So it is the same issue as the window gasget.
I got so fed up with water that I just caulked the hell out of the corner moldings and carried it to the rear window. Black RTV. Then I used a thin bead of clear RTV along the top of the window and down part of the sides (used masking tape for a cleaner line).
My rear brake light also leaked badly, even with a replacement. I clear RTVed that also.
AND my cab vent leaks too. The small plastic vent between the cab and bed. Gotta fix that too.
@@secretarysmith3307 not in this case. It was the rivets on both mouldings at the top of the cab. The plastic coating of the rivet itself had worn out and allowed water to leak in from the top of the cab.
@@epicsave635 well maybe I had that issue too. Amazing how many ways Ford has allowed water to get into their trucks! I drilled the rivets, slopped in some black Rtv, re-riveted the hole, and slopped more rtv on top. Desperate times called for desperate measures.
Where could I find the weather strip? Most of the stores here do not carry it and which brand would you recommend?
It’s called Butyl tape and we get it from the local auto parts store like NAPA. They all should carry it in a couple different sizes. I wouldn’t worry about the brand.