Home-built CNC - Step 2 improvement - Full range Z axis and limit switches installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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#3018CNC
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In my last video, I built a new CNC using a 3018:
• 3018 CNC - The only up...
The limitations in working area of the 3018 CNC didn't allow me to make a bigger plate for the X axis. For that reason, the Z axis can only have the range about 30mm above the waste board. The working area in the X and Y axis directions is now about 280mm and 400mm. This allow me to lift the Z axis higher with the new range is 80mm.
The upgrade was done in 2 steps. First step is to remake the spindle holding plate so I can adjust the angle of the spindle to make the flat end of the bit parallel to movement of the X and Y axis plane. After the angle of the spindle is adjusted, I did all the calibrations that I showed in this video:
• 3 Axis CNC - Calibrati...
Second step, after calibrated the machine, I re-milled the side plates for the X axis to lift the Z axis up. I also redesigned the gantry plate for the Z axis and the spindle holding plate to take full range advantage of the Z axis movement.
I modified the original design so you only need to re-mill 2 plates for the side of the X axis in the "Upgrade step 2" folder.
Here's the link to the 3D design of the machine:
grabcad.com/li...
After increasing the Z axis range, I installed the limit switches on all axis to insure the safety of the machine. The limit switches stop the stepper motors from pushing the axis beyond the end of the linear rails and break the machine.
Lastly, I took advice from a viewer to test the rigidity and precision of the machine. I tried to push the axis manually and couldn't move the axis in any direction. For the precision, with the right speed, the accuracy is more than acceptable for a hobbyist machine (0.02mm tolerance).
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I've seen that method of cutting at 17:48 with the circular patterns to cut the profile in aluminum done by others. Very cool
The tool path type called "adaptive clearing", it's generated by Fusion 360. That type of tool path is very efficient to remove Aluminum because it reduce the load on the bit (only a small part of the bit is in contact with the aluminum stock when cutting). I was recommended to use that tool path by other viewers that are more experienced than me.
Why not use a self locking NUT instead of the NUT you are using...The router produces vibration and the Nut you used may loosen and wreck Havoc during operation. Just a thought.
Because I'm not perfect and need people 's input like yours to improve things
(FR) Le test d'immobilité est quelque peu empirique... mais on te croit! Cette machine bouge à peine et on s'en aperçoit lors de l'accéléré video qui ne laisse passer aucune vibration, aussi petite fût-elle. De l'excellent travail comme d'hab Minh!
Very nice ideas! One of these days I need to make some changes to mine also. Have great week! Stay safe! Thanks for sharing it with all of us!
Gee Batman, he said a water cooled spindle......won't it actually take off and attain escape velocity?........I don't know Robin, just keep your fingers crossed.
A late video but good work though this thing can't be considered a 3018 anymore after all of your work.
edit: Btw, I would redo the mount so you could use a bolt at the top and one below (opposite corners) that would make centering the bit so much easier and so much more precise. Something similar could be done for the forward and backward (Y) position in the first part of the video instead of shimming with aluminum foil.
Surely that solution will ease the adjustment of the spindle, it just gonna take a bit more time to design a holder and also with the screw pushing plywood, it won't be as accurate. If I have the holder made of steel or aluminum, I'll do that.
Yes, but if wood it would take some way to hold the nut.
Super
Nice video,
I build cnc machine too,and not yet try cut aluminium
Lot of people like to mill aluminum because it's more durable than wood or plywood and also can be considered soft. You should try it out and find the limitation of your machine if there's any (most likely will be the rails are fully supported or not).
I like your ingenuity Minh, you do good work.
Thank you for your support my friend
Your machine CNC can cutting aluminum. Do you have plane remake all of plate to aluminum for stronger?
Already did, please check my other video about it
Nice vid mate, but it cripples me, when people use the hot glue, for fixing the important components..
I'll make proper fixture soon
Hi Minh! Accuracy deserves adjustments. You made it! (FR) En route pour la perfection! Salut Minh! Tu sembles bien sorti du confinement. C'est très bien! La course verticale à 8cm et aussi bas de quelques millimètres, est simplement appréciable. Des modifications qu'il fallait faire avant de commencer une utilisation sans souci du CNC. On ne peut pas les faire en cours de route. Sinon pour l'ajustement dans le plan Y, je repète une question que j'ai déjà posée pour ta video sur la calibration: Cette feuille d'alu pliée ne va-t-elle pas s'écraser au cours du temps? ce qui nécessiterait une recalibration de temps à autre.
Salut, comment va chez toi? ici, on est toujour en quarantine. Je suis assez content avec cette machine, surtout comment elle coupe de lAlum. Pour couper le plywood, je peut aller vraiment vite avec 5 a 7mm stepdown, 1200mm/min feed rate sans probleme.
Seulement le spindle fait beaucoup de bruit et je pense de le changer bien tot. Pour les feuille d'Alum, pour l'instant je ne vois pas trop de probleme. Il faut juste bien serrer les ecrous pour compresser les feuille. Peut etre il faut le re-calibrer dans le future, j'en suis pas sur. C'est juste une " quick and dirty" solution.
@@minhsmancave9448 merci à toi. Tout va bien ici à Strasbourg. J'ignorais que vous étiez encore en quarantaine dans le Maryland... Pour revenir à la machine. Je la trouve de plus en plus efficace, solide et sans vibrations. De très loin, une des diy CNC les plus abouties. Ça donne vraiment l'envie de s'y lancer. Et sans mentir, elle devient de plus en plus "belle" aussi. Comment dit-on chez vous? GREAT JOB!
J'ai vu que tu utilisais de la hot glue pour bloquer la feuille d'alu... je ne pensais pas que ça tiendrait à la friction du forêt... étonnant.
can you share what type of end mill you are using? and where to purchase? thx
Single flute flat end mill, I bought them from AliExpress for about $15 for 10 bits:
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000090731411.html
3.175x12mm
What made you decide on choosing the moving gantry design? Also, for the dust solution, came across "Passive Dust Shoe for CNC Router" design, where the turbine is fixed on the rotor of the spindle, eliminating the need of a separate vacuum sucker .. Might be a bit harder to implement on the wood trimmer motor, but, I think, it's doable ...
First, I'm as amateur as anyone learning cnc routing. I haven't had chance to use many type of CNC machines. My reasoning is simple and might not cover all the cons of the design. I think that moving gantry will give me larger working area. When it comes to cut pieces longer than the bed of the machine, I think moving gantry have more advantages since the stock might be heavy and I usually only mill soft material like wood and aluminum so moving gantry will be enough. In the future, if I were to build a metal mill for cutting small precision parts from steel or thick aluminum, I'll consider the moving table design. Let me know if you have other thought. For the dust separator or collector, thank you for your suggestion, I'm still trying to make a design that is light weight and less noisy. But still far from finishing.
@@minhsmancave9448 Same here man, I'm still waiting for my 3018 to arrive, but I'm planning to start modding it right away. Already ordered 500w spindle (good deal on Banggood). Planning to reuse some of the kit parts, but will add SBR16 rail/block to the middle of the X and Y axis. Will also replace the 2020 profile with 2060.
"Passive Dust Shoe for CNC Router" I mentioned, is exactly the low noise option, as it doesn't use any additional motor, as the sucker turbine is powered by the spindle.
(FR) les trous à plusieurs angles sur la plaque du spindle... une intelligence pratique certaine. Bravo.
Salut, j'ai supprimme la video sur le badminton car les gen ont commence a parler politiques. Ce n'est pas ma these, la mienne est celle-la: theses.fr/2013LYO10284
@@minhsmancave9448 Désolé pour la confusion! Minh est donc un prénom je suppose... Tu as raison de lever tout de suite les doutes sur ce que tu veux faire de ton channel qui est avant tout partage de bonnes choses. D'où le danger des livestreams quand des gens commencent à parler politique, ça risque de tourner mal... Bein, continue sur du technique! C'est le plus sûr moyen de retenir aussi ton audience. Salut!
Have you ever tried to mill some styrofoam with your CNC? twitter.com/joetke/status/1267882748284469250?s=20
(FR) Pour ta gouverne, tu es pratiquement le seul à insister sur l'ajustement le plus précis à l'horizontal et dans les 2 directions XY. J'ai regardé aujourd'hui un de mes préférés reviewers en electronique, qui a construit une CNC plus que pro, superbe, du lourd, tout en acier, mais dont l'horizontalité faisait défaut à cause d'une petite négligence d'ajustements. On voyait des vaguelettes sur sa finition plane... ça fait amateur...
I haven't tried milling Styrofoam yet since I haven't thought about any application for it. I saw people do it. I think that It should be easy enough since Styrofoam is soft. With a fast speed spindle and a sharp bit and a good dust collector, It should be a piece of cake.
(FR) Pour moi, l'adjustement horizontal est important surtout quand je faire des trous a travers une plaque epaisse (3/4 inch ~ 19mm). Si le spindle n'est pas perpendiculaire au plan XY, les trous non plus. T'imagine d'attacher une bar d'alum 1m longueur sur la surface de cetter plaque avec une visse, l'erreur de 1 degree faire l'erreur autour de 17mm de l'autre cote du bar (c'est enorme). Pour cette raison la, je fais bcp d'attention a l'adjustement d'horizontalite du spindle.
@@minhsmancave9448 très pertinent! "a good dust collector"... really amusing...
great job!!! What are the bits you use? Where do you buy them? Thank you for your answer.
- For plywood, these are the bit that I got: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3LGSS7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- For Aluminum: I got a pack of 10 bit - 3.175mm diameter and 15mm cutting length from here: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000090731411.html
Hi Minh, that's another cool video of yours I've watched, so useful bud 👍 I've got my 3018 pro fitted with a 500 watt spindle now and I am really now only planning one small addition, a spoil board so I can cut pieces out. I figure the machine is now accurate enough to cut out gantry plates etc from 18mm ply to build a much stronger machine that can upgrade the ply parts to aluminium. Thanks for the inspiration bro!
Baby steps will take you far my friends. But if you are planning on doing aluminum, my recommendation will be changing the linear rods on the X axis with fully supported rails. You will be amazed how much difference those rails can make when it comes to cutting aluminum.
@@minhsmancave9448 The point I was trying to get across was that I'll use the 3018 to make the pieces out of ply and use the new machine to remake them out off aluminium. And probably sell the 3018 at that point with the 500 watt upgrade fitted. I was inspired by another of your videos where you did just that. Was also shocked how quiet those water cooled spindles from China are, new machine will have one. 3018 builds 5232 which will build the big one, I won't stop now until I have half a sheet capacity. I would do a video of the new machine build, but I'm so shit at that sort of thing 🤪
Also a good plan, just like renting a 3018 to build a better cnc. 👍
Exactly bud, and educate myself along the way, attempt to at least!
Minh, I went to find my parts now before the second wave hits and hmph. 100 USD for 2x250,2x450,2x500 plus 2 blocks and 80 dollars for shipping and 20 dollars for tax. Total was over 200 USD as that shipping is outrageous so I give I can't find the 15H rails, and blocks, at a decent price anymore as they are a good price but the shipping is murder. This was on AliExpress. Banggood had a good price on one with shipping the cost like the old AliExpress but only had 1 for sale (sold out I guess).
How about eBay, search Hsr15 1500mm, I found set of 2 rails with 4 block for around 80usd. You can trim them to the lengths you need. I think that's a lot cheaper.
@@minhsmancave9448 Is it though in my case? 450x2+500x2+250x2 plus two blocks each plus 2 more each for X. HSR15 vs MGN15H blocks differ how? A bit tight in X and Y for the blocks.
The Hsr15 rails and blocks thicker compare to mgn15. You the set of 2 rails 1500mm you have more than enough length to cut to 2x450,2x500,2x250 total of 2x1200mm. Just need to buy the extra blocks in additional of the 4 already included. I think it's cheaper than mgn15 or Hgh15.
My bad actually, search Hgh15 1500mm, it's even cheaper, 76usd for set of 2 and the bearing blocks are easier to buy
@@minhsmancave9448 I had read that anything MGN is more expensive and the first you gave is almost 90 USD now. I will see about the HGH15.