Every 3018 cnc i have seen and had, the limit switches are disabled and always the spindle wire in the connector are around the wrong way i was cutting Alluminium on mine 5 years ago, it was fun and a learning curve before i brought a much bigger and powerfull machine, so for the a first cnc machine to learn from these are great, and once learnt how to use one then you just sell it, and go bigger to the job size your require.
i got the same model a few months ago and its been awsome. 10x better than my saintsmart 3018 prover 2 ( it was half plastic!) this is so much more solid ,all metal, and came with a 5.5w laser that actually works pretty good also. . i did turn up all the max speeds and accelerations and now it runs about 15 X faster with no noticable loss of performance. . i mill aluminum often you can go faster than in the video but id suggest small step downs and using a vacuume brush attatchment , or like me just 3d print a spindle fan to blow away the chips as it goes, and use just a bit of cutting fluid or lubricant to get rid of any chatter .
I agree, I was just too lazy to install the spraying nozzle and compressed air tubing line. But being able to cut Aluminum without upgrading is a big step up for this type of machine
I bought the same 3018 last week. Starting to replace some of the frame with steel flat bars. Will move onto an all steel z axis next. I hope to see your mods to this one!
interesting that they've provided that much more heavy duty pieces, but at $500, you're getting almost to the point of a "decent" $1000 one that is larger in size. Starts to become a balancing act on what you need for sure, but nice to see they've upgraded the kit. I still like my $200 one for what I do with it.
@@sambirkwood2725 aluminum cans, yeah should as that is very thin, but not sure what speeds and feeds to do on something like that to make sure it doesn't just rip thru it and cuts it instead.
Good to see another video from you. I've still not done the ugrades to my own 3018 but have most of the parts I'll need, so this was really helpful. Thanks!
Nope....not impressed, for that price I would have expected at least to have fully supported linear rails, ball screws and a 500 watt BLDC motor........very interesting video well done. I just can't imagine how that tool path is more efficient than a plain straight cut all around the periphery.....this one has 2 to 3 times the cutter wear.
Thank you so much for all the information. Watching you produce the toolpath in Fusion was very useful. It is good to know a clean and precise result is possible if you have a good idea of what you are doing :) How long did that bracket take to cut out? Thanks again for your time.
@@minhsmancave9448 im looking for a cnc milling machine that can handle between 1 too 2.5mm cut depths. The only metals im going too use is copper and aliminium. What is your recommendation?
Hi, thanks for all the information. I just got one of these machines and am wondering if the manual knob next to the spindle motor, should move as easy as all the other axis knobs move.. it is hard to turn it to move the spindle up/down.. is that normal? Thanks!
@@minhsmancave9448 Hi, thanks very much for your reply. I bought this machine 2nd hand at half price so I figured there may be some problems. Yes, the up/down on the z axis is very hard to move, for now I am not sure if it is the motor or possibly the brass ring around the threaded rod.. nothing in this area seems bent or broke and I do hear power going to the z axis motor, but it will not turn obviously... so something is causing it not to turn with the electricity and very difficult to turn by hand... Possibly the last user did something with the spindle turning in the wrong direction and messed up something? I am just guessing at that, but right now, how I received the machine, the spindle + (on the main board) is connected to the black wire from the spindle.. I believe this is also reversed like on your machine when you first tested it (it is turning to the right). I probably have to reverse these wires like you had to. Thanks again for all your information, I bought this machine after looking at your review of it, the only work I will do with it is to rout 999 fine silver plate..Cutting designs into the silver about .5 to 1.5 mm depth... after seeing you cut the aluminum (about the same hardness as silver) I decided to get the machine.. once I get the z axis up/down figured out and fixed (if its the z axis stepping motor, I am not sure what one to get yet) I will probably update to 500w spindle. Thanks again!
@@minhsmancave9448 thanks, I tried that but no luck. I took off the motor and checked it disconnected... The motor is bad, freezes up and is still hard to turn... still not bad for 1/2 off the price.. Once I get a new motor, if it can rout silver all will be good :)
Just curious how your 200w spindle is holding up and how long they usually last... I was milling some copper and all was going well until the spindle got slower and slower until having very little power at all.. I can stop it with my finger. I did reverse the wires for the spindle direction like you did. I noticed that when the spindle was off it did not spin smooth by hand, it had a bit of resistance every 1/2 turn, not sure if that is normal or not. The stepper motors dont do that. Anyway I am waiting now for a 500w to come in. BTW, I talked to someone selling these machines and the red connection on the motherboard is for the laser, over a bit on the other side is the 48v connection for a bigger spindle (the 4 little blue connectors).. I still need to see if there is a switch to change for that, I didnt see anything on the motherboard. Thanks again
Thank you for offering help. I'm starting my business trying to launch my aquaponic filter system. As an engineer, I've never known that launching a product requires so many steps. I've done protyping, and successfully testing my filter system. It has many clear advantages comparing to any filter on the market. Right now, I'm trying to work with a design company to convert it to a industrial design that can be mass produced. There are still many things to do afterward. If you know any source of funding or any person, organization that wanted to partner with me to launch this product, please let me know. Your help surely is greatly appreciated.
Sir I have watched a lot of your videos I purchased a 3040 system I got it all together but my y-axis doesn’t run now it did it first but now it doesn’t I know that it’s in the board because I’ve changed the plug from the other motors to the Y axis and they won’t run and I plug the white access motor into the other one than that it runs OK so I know the problems in the Y axis is there a way for me to convert it over to the AXS would appreciate your help
I think it's a bit misleading to say 'miling aluminum without any upgrade' on a 3018. This is a $400 machine which is more than double what most 3018s cost. So an upgraded 3018 is exactly what this is...
Hi, nice work. I just have one observation. Your version of cycloidal machining is very inefficient, there is no reason to cut a 1/2” ( I’m guessing )wide path. The idea is to not bury half the tool in the work. Let’s look at what we really need. Let’s say a 2 flute tool with an .003 tooth load. That’s .006 per revolution. So if the tool moves .010 to .015 away from the workpiece, we aren’t using more contact than your 1/2” is and we are saving time and tool wear by not cutting all that extra material.
Was für ein Spielzeug für viel zu viel Geld. Egal was für eine Maschine man aufbaut, muss diese auch immer erst ausgerichtet werden, und das geschied mechanisch.
As a newcomer to CAM I found this practical and helpful
Cannot get enough of your content. Thank you for everything you do. All inspiring.
IKR!!!
This channels videos I watch to feel better when I'm down.
Every 3018 cnc i have seen and had, the limit switches are disabled and always the spindle wire in the connector are around the wrong way
i was cutting Alluminium on mine 5 years ago, it was fun and a learning curve before i brought a much bigger and powerfull machine,
so for the a first cnc machine to learn from these are great, and once learnt how to use one then you just sell it, and go bigger to the job size your require.
Thank you for this great new video. I have not bought my cnc router yet waiting for the right one to show up. This one may be it!
i got the same model a few months ago and its been awsome. 10x better than my saintsmart 3018 prover 2 ( it was half plastic!) this is so much more solid ,all metal, and came with a 5.5w laser that actually works pretty good also. . i did turn up all the max speeds and accelerations and now it runs about 15 X faster with no noticable loss of performance. . i mill aluminum often you can go faster than in the video but id suggest small step downs and using a vacuume brush attatchment , or like me just 3d print a spindle fan to blow away the chips as it goes, and use just a bit of cutting fluid or lubricant to get rid of any chatter .
Looks good. You might get a better finish by getting all the chips out of there when machining
I agree, I was just too lazy to install the spraying nozzle and compressed air tubing line. But being able to cut Aluminum without upgrading is a big step up for this type of machine
Great video, I'll probably pick one up to do small and slow aluminum cuts.
I bought the same 3018 last week. Starting to replace some of the frame with steel flat bars. Will move onto an all steel z axis next. I hope to see your mods to this one!
Did it improve anything?
Thank you Minh! Another informative video!!
Incredible! Like Gary Chasse said - I can't get enough of your content!
Awesome info and demonstration!, Much appreciated man!!
interesting that they've provided that much more heavy duty pieces, but at $500, you're getting almost to the point of a "decent" $1000 one that is larger in size. Starts to become a balancing act on what you need for sure, but nice to see they've upgraded the kit. I still like my $200 one for what I do with it.
Hey! Do you think your original model could cut soft metal with a thickness of a coke can? Cheers :)
@@sambirkwood2725 aluminum cans, yeah should as that is very thin, but not sure what speeds and feeds to do on something like that to make sure it doesn't just rip thru it and cuts it instead.
for your holes, you should use calipers or a gauge pin to check the dimension!
Good to see another video from you. I've still not done the ugrades to my own 3018 but have most of the parts I'll need, so this was really helpful. Thanks!
Nope....not impressed, for that price I would have expected at least to have fully supported linear rails, ball screws and a 500 watt BLDC motor........very interesting video well done.
I just can't imagine how that tool path is more efficient than a plain straight cut all around the periphery.....this one has 2 to 3 times the cutter wear.
Thank you so much for all the information. Watching you produce the toolpath in Fusion was very useful. It is good to know a clean and precise result is possible if you have a good idea of what you are doing :) How long did that bracket take to cut out? Thanks again for your time.
saludos y felicitaciones por tan educativos videos, gran trabajo
Lâu rồi mới thấy anh ra video về cnc. Thank anh 😍
I always enjoy your videos and sharing your experience and wisdom, thanks mate, good job again and very interesting, thank you 😎👍
Awesome channel man!
These little machines are great and they can do this but they are painfully slow....
nice video & Very beutiful Maschine thank you
What is the biggest size material you can use, cut sizes, drilling depth and accuracy of the machine?
Pretty much like standard 3018cnc: 300x180x45 mm3
@@minhsmancave9448 im looking for a cnc milling machine that can handle between 1 too 2.5mm cut depths. The only metals im going too use is copper and aliminium. What is your recommendation?
Love it man. Keep it up.
Hi, thanks for all the information. I just got one of these machines and am wondering if the manual knob next to the spindle motor, should move as easy as all the other axis knobs move.. it is hard to turn it to move the spindle up/down.. is that normal? Thanks!
All axis should move smoothly. The Z axis on this machine is not very heavy, should also move easily with the knob
@@minhsmancave9448 Hi, thanks very much for your reply. I bought this machine 2nd hand at half price so I figured there may be some problems. Yes, the up/down on the z axis is very hard to move, for now I am not sure if it is the motor or possibly the brass ring around the threaded rod.. nothing in this area seems bent or broke and I do hear power going to the z axis motor, but it will not turn obviously... so something is causing it not to turn with the electricity and very difficult to turn by hand... Possibly the last user did something with the spindle turning in the wrong direction and messed up something? I am just guessing at that, but right now, how I received the machine, the spindle + (on the main board) is connected to the black wire from the spindle.. I believe this is also reversed like on your machine when you first tested it (it is turning to the right). I probably have to reverse these wires like you had to. Thanks again for all your information, I bought this machine after looking at your review of it, the only work I will do with it is to rout 999 fine silver plate..Cutting designs into the silver about .5 to 1.5 mm depth... after seeing you cut the aluminum (about the same hardness as silver) I decided to get the machine.. once I get the z axis up/down figured out and fixed (if its the z axis stepping motor, I am not sure what one to get yet) I will probably update to 500w spindle. Thanks again!
Putting some lubricant grease on the leadscrew also help sometimes
@@minhsmancave9448 thanks, I tried that but no luck. I took off the motor and checked it disconnected... The motor is bad, freezes up and is still hard to turn... still not bad for 1/2 off the price.. Once I get a new motor, if it can rout silver all will be good :)
Just curious how your 200w spindle is holding up and how long they usually last... I was milling some copper and all was going well until the spindle got slower and slower until having very little power at all.. I can stop it with my finger. I did reverse the wires for the spindle direction like you did. I noticed that when the spindle was off it did not spin smooth by hand, it had a bit of resistance every 1/2 turn, not sure if that is normal or not. The stepper motors dont do that. Anyway I am waiting now for a 500w to come in. BTW, I talked to someone selling these machines and the red connection on the motherboard is for the laser, over a bit on the other side is the 48v connection for a bigger spindle (the 4 little blue connectors).. I still need to see if there is a switch to change for that, I didnt see anything on the motherboard. Thanks again
Can the machine process stainless steel?
No, it's a very weak machine, only for wood and plastics. Aluminum is the limit, can cut roughly
@@minhsmancave9448 Thank you very much for the answer!
nice review
sounds like a haas running
Thanks for the vid
A while? Seems like a lifetime. WB. :)
Be back soon with another cnc build. Much easier and better than the last one. Trying to mill steel this time
@@minhsmancave9448 STEEL?!? This I have to see. :)
Love your videos! You mentioned you’re looking for some funding, would like to know if I can help
Thank you for offering help. I'm starting my business trying to launch my aquaponic filter system. As an engineer, I've never known that launching a product requires so many steps. I've done protyping, and successfully testing my filter system. It has many clear advantages comparing to any filter on the market. Right now, I'm trying to work with a design company to convert it to a industrial design that can be mass produced. There are still many things to do afterward. If you know any source of funding or any person, organization that wanted to partner with me to launch this product, please let me know. Your help surely is greatly appreciated.
Sir I have watched a lot of your videos I purchased a 3040 system I got it all together but my y-axis doesn’t run now it did it first but now it doesn’t I know that it’s in the board because I’ve changed the plug from the other motors to the Y axis and they won’t run and I plug the white access motor into the other one than that it runs OK so I know the problems in the Y axis is there a way for me to convert it over to the AXS would appreciate your help
Not sure what controller board you have and which software you are using? Mach3 or grbl?
@@minhsmancave9448
I can’t find the number on the board but it uses Goebel if I had your address I would send you a picture of the board
GRBL. THAT CAME OUT WRONG
Look at velocity, acceraration and pulses for stepper motor vids
@@kaleenvanzile342 You can edit posts. In a message, mouse over the top-right and see three dots menu.
Why are you doing climb cuts? That creates alot of chatter.
Thank you for another wonderful video.
I think it's a bit misleading to say 'miling aluminum without any upgrade' on a 3018. This is a $400 machine which is more than double what most 3018s cost. So an upgraded 3018 is exactly what this is...
You need to serious education about Cutting ALU. That last tool path was cringe and I was just waiting for that tool to break. 😂
Hi, nice work. I just have one observation. Your version of cycloidal machining is very inefficient, there is no reason to cut a 1/2” ( I’m guessing )wide path. The idea is to not bury half the tool in the work. Let’s look at what we really need.
Let’s say a 2 flute tool with an .003 tooth load. That’s .006 per revolution. So if the tool moves .010 to .015 away from the workpiece, we aren’t using more contact than your 1/2” is and we are saving time and tool wear by not cutting all that extra material.
Was für ein Spielzeug für viel zu viel Geld. Egal was für eine Maschine man aufbaut, muss diese auch immer erst ausgerichtet werden, und das geschied mechanisch.
Your fish tank look like a sewer
OK