Overview and operation of Challenger 4-post residential auto lift. If you enjoy this video and find it helpful, subscribe to the channel for more car content! / @autopilotgogogo
I just ordered the CL4P7 and the rolling jack based on your excellent video! I almost went with the Bend Pak but the space between the columns would have been an issue with my Viper TA
Congrats. I think you’ll like it. See if the arms of the bridge jack extend wide enough to reach the jacking points of your Viper. If not, consider extension pieces from SVI International-much more economical than the extensions from Challenger: th-cam.com/video/FwbbID2WtUg/w-d-xo.html
excellent i brought a townhouse i rent out the single garage is 15 feet high 12 feet wide 25 feet long concrete floor its the tallest single brick garage i have ever seen i was thinking one of these would be a great addition .
Can someone help me please? 1) Can you suggest any proven methods of installing such a lift in a garage that has a slope of at least 4-5 inches? 2) Also, would the lift shift if I don’t bolt it to the ground? (I would rather not anchor it as my concrete slab is only 4 inches thick.) Last question: 3) Is 4 inch thick concrete floor even enough to to support the lift with the vehicles? I would appreciate if you could please answer all or at least some of my questions🙏
Will try to answer as best I can, Peter. But absolutely confirm with a professional installer prior to having the work done. It's well worth the additional few hundred bucks to have a local lift dealer/pro plan out and perform the installation. Safety is paramount with this kind of project. 1 and 2) My garage floor has a decent amount of slope to it, but probably not as much as you're describing. The installer may have a method to place shims under the lift's posts at the lower/garage-door side to even it out. But then they would likely insist on bolting the lift to the floor so it doesn't shift on the shims. 3) From what I understand, 4" reinforced concrete is considered the minimum thickness to safely support a lift. But again, consult with an installer to confirm. Good that you're asking the right questions for planning--it's worth it in the long run.
So, if the bridge jack lifts up off the runway rollers when the lift is in the down position, there is less clearance between the jack and your vehicle than when it was in the up position during your illustration of the clearance. So, my question: how much does it lift up off the rollers? Also, do the rollers lock when it's lifting your vehicle or could your vehicle have the potential of rolling down the runway while on the lifted jacks?
Excellent point. I will officially measure next time I have the lift in the bottom position, but my estimate is that the bridge jacks only pop up 1/4 to 1/2 inch when the lift is fully down against the ground. The GT4 doesn't scrape along them when I drive it onto the lift ramps, and the car sits pretty low--it's been lowered a bit on its adjustable suspension, and since it's on 19" wheels/tires rather than the stock 20" setup, yet the tires have the same aspect ratio as stock, the overall diameter of the wheel/tire combo is 1 inch less than stock. So the car sits 1/2 inch lower than stock just due to the 19" wheels, and a bit more than that due to the suspension adjustment. As for the bridge jacks rolling or moving when supporting the car, it hasn't been an issue for me with any of the cars I've had on the jacks. The bridge jacks themselves are really heavy, so moving them by themselves (unloaded with no car on them) takes some effort. Trying to slide them with a car on them would likely be close to impossible.
Looks pretty sweet, just wondering about the posts shaking @5:34, is that normal/acceptable/expected? HUGE oversight of them not making wide enough jack arms, what were they thinking, did they even test with modern cars? Found a solution yet? Otherwise, it is a great all-in-one system.
Yes--that certainly can appear disconcerting. But that occurs as the lift reaches its lowest point and the weight rests on the inside edges of each post's plinth. It pulls the posts in a bit. It's not really a safety concern in that lowest setting on the ground. My posts are not bolted into the concrete slab, because I have radiant heat in the floor and didn't want to risk hitting the radiant tubing. But operating the lift without the posts being bolted to the floor is perfectly acceptable as per Challenger. In fact, there are accessory legs/wheels that you can attach to move the entire thing around in the garage if you need to. Now that I have Swisstrax flooring installed, this movement of the posts doesn't occur anymore. I cut the tiles around the edges of the posts so that the posts themselves are still resting directly on the concrete slab, but the runways of the lift now come to rest on the Swisstrax floor in the lowest setting. So the weight of the lift and car now rests on the Swisstrax rather than the edges of the post plinths when it's fully lowered.
@@AutoPilotgogogo Oic, they weren't even bolted, but still works great. Nice the posts don't shift anymore. Awesome side benefit getting the Swisstrax!
Hi, thanks for the video it is very helpful. I am also on Long Island in eastern suffolk and I have just reached out to Ace Service and Installation about a doing an install on the challenger lift. I also have a call out to Bendpak as well. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind lettning me know what you paid for the installation of the lift. Im looking at the 7000lbs lift in my 2 car garage as well, and i'm also probably going to have to add a high lift kit to the garage door so i'm trying to get an idea of what the total with all the additional stuff added is going to cost me. Thanks
Steve T Some of the additional costs were rolled into the total expense of a house renovation/expansion that we did at the time, so I’m not sure off the top of my head how much the LiftMaster jack shaft garage door opener and elevated tracks were. Becker Garage Door did the installation and did a very nice job. They bent/pieced together track sections so that the door follows the pitch of the ceiling nicely for max clearance. The cost of the 9000lb Challenger lift plus installation was around $3500, and the two rolling bridge jacks added another $1500 or so. Also factor in having an electrician place a 220v outlet for the lift-it allows the 220v motor option which raises the lift twice as fast. Definitely worth it.
Will you post another video covering the Jackshafts in detail? Did you install both the shafts and the door extended railing? And is it wide enough for a C7 Corvette Grand Sport which is the widebody? Many thanks…. Mr DJ…
I can post a followup video detailing the jackshaft openers. I didn't do the install myself--it was done by a garage door installer. Might be doable as a DIY, but it looks like there are a lot of components involved--sensors, locks, etc.--and you would need to know how to set the tension on the cables, etc. A friend of mine at work almost lost an eye when a spring and bracket broke and released on his garage door, so I'm happy to leave that kind of thing to the experts. The extended railing was pieced together from various sections of track to follow the pitch of the garage interior roofline. Again, I can put together a video to show in more detail. As for the Corvette GS, it would be a good idea to measure the rear track width of the car from outside edge of tire to outside edge of tire to make sure it wouldn't be too wide for the lift. Challenger has very detailed measurements on their website for their various lifts. My GT4 and M2C each have about 2" to spare on either side when they're centered on the lift runways, and I'm sure the C7 GS is wider. I believe Challenger makes a wider version of the lift if necessary.
Kool Beans, Sir. Appreciate your speedy response. I did check my car’s width and the challenger and it will fit but barely. Also looking at the BendPac. What’s your take on them? Other: I’ve a YT channel, check it if you get a chance. Many thanks. Mr DJ.
BendPak lifts have been very popular over the years, but after a lot of research, I decided it was important to go with something that was truly American made of quality American steel and parts--and that means Challenger (or its sister company Quality Lifts), Mohawk, or Rotary. Too many stories of bad things happening with cheap Chinese-made lifts. It's just not worth the few hundred bucks saved during the purchase. Also, the Challenger lifts don't require connection to an air tank to operate. BendPak lifts need an air connection in order to release the locks to lower the lift. I'll check out your channel!
Definitely planned for it. The GT4 is very low, especially since I’m running a 19” track wheel setup instead of the stock 20” wheels. So it sits 1/2” lower than stock. Based on my research, Corvettes, etc., require the optional extended aluminum ramps, so I ordered them from the start.
You can do either. The lift is stable while free standing. I chose to leave it free standing because we have hydronic radiant heat in the garage floor and I didn’t want to risk drilling into the tubing.
It is close. The rear rocker panels just clear, but the front spoiler does scrape a bit. I’ve been placing the small metal wheel stops from the ends of the runways under the leading edge of the ramps. This lifts the front of the ramps maybe 1/4”, which is enough to allow the front spoiler to clear. My car sits 1/2” lower than stock because I’m using 19” wheels instead of the stock 20” wheels, with the same aspect ratio as the stock tires. A stock-height GT4 would likely clear its front spoiler without an issue.
What did this cost with the install and delivery. I'm looking to buy the 7000 lb unit from ace and wanted to know a ballpark since your model is higher.
My installation was 3 yrs ago, so prices may have increased a bit since then, but I found the quote they gave me for the 7000lb rated CL4P7 that you're interested in (I initially planned on that one before I decided on the uprated 9S): $3650 for the lift, $125 for the 220V motor (totally worth it), $385 for the extended aluminum ramps = $4160 total which includes freight, delivery and installation. Overall more reasonable than I would have expected. Three years later I'm still very happy with it and would do it again.
Approx 106" x 175"--add a couple of inches on each end to account for the extra width of the base plates underneath each column. Rolling bridge jacks have held up well.
Thanks for the information I actually work for challenger lifts 11 years now. We are owned by snap-on finally got my lift installed did it myself with my wife’s help was a lot of work took a few days to complete. This lift is actually a cross dock unit and only had the measurements in the manual to go by. Thanks for the actual specs minus the base plates helped my decision on the 7 or 9k. I got the rolling jacks RJ 4.5 so am going to look into the ext pieces as I haven’t seen them at challenger before. If you have anymore information or the specs on the ext maybe could get them custom made at my work would be great.
@@DEE-io9li That's great! The extensions by SVI Intnl are 1.5" x 4" x 10 5/8" (outer dimensions of the steel tubing). If you want to post your email, I can send you some pics. Did you see my video featuring the extensions? th-cam.com/video/FwbbID2WtUg/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoPilotgogogo My email is stowe.daniel@ymail.com Yep I seen your video they look like good quality and design and definitely need them. Other wise you have to find other spots to pickup on then what’s intended. I appreciate the response and pictures thanks again.
Absolutely. There are optional casters on arms that attach to the bottom of each post. When the lift is raised, it then levers itself up off the ground so you can wheel it around.
I used Ace in Farmingdale. They did a nice job with installation and were priced reasonably. I found that they weren't very responsive, though, when it came to follow-up for routine maintenance (it's a good idea to have the cables/locks checked every year or two, and have parts lubricated)--couldn't get them to return my calls or emails to set up an appointment. So I had a maintenance check done instead by Accurate Automotive Equipment (owner is Howard Mansdorf, 516 941-7887). His tech was very friendly and knowledgable.
AutoPilot thanks for the response. Does accurate sell and install as well? What lift do you have? I have my eye on the CL4P7, my concern is the lift runway height. I am 5’9”and will be using the lift to work and and store my 2 cars. Once again, my concern is the head room while.
I think they do sell and install--give them a call. I have the CL4P9S. It has a slightly higher weight rating, which wasn't so important to me, but it's also a bit longer and wider, with a higher overall lift height. I wanted to make sure I could get a sedan easily underneath, and maybe even something like a Porsche Macan SUV, which does clear under my lift (had one as a service loaner). If you're going to be doing work underneath the cars, you may want to consider doing the 9S for its higher lift height to make things easier, as long as your garage dimensions allow it. Specs are on the website: www.challengerlifts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SpecSheets_2017_FINAL_HomeStorage.pdf
Marek Quesnel I considered Bendpak, Backyard Buddy, Mohawk and Rotary, but ended up with Challenger for a few reasons: good reputation, American made with U.S. parts, American Lift Institute safety certified, does not require compressed air for operation, right size, moderate cost, and has a dealer/installer close to me for service.
@@AutoPilotgogogo I believe that Challenger lifts are also made in China, but the Snap-On parent company owns the factory and controls management there. Challenger USA are in Louisville, but not the factory.
220v. You specify whether you want a 110 or 220v motor when you order the lift. The 220v cuts the rise time in half. I had an electrician hardwire the 220v connection to a junction box on the wall. All they need to do is run a 220v line from your subpanel to a junction box close to the motor location of the lift, and then hardwire the connection.
AutoPilot ok, thanks...If you have time could you email me a picture of the connection at the wall and the motor 1320str8liner@gmail.com thanks in advance
Roughly standard 2-car, 21’ wide x 19.5’ deep, but with ceiling over lift following the exterior roof line, 12’ high at the front and back, extending to 14’ high in the middle.
Thanks--hope it was helpful. The ceiling above the lift is extended to 12.5 feet (It's only 9.5 feet for the other bay). Because there is no second floor above the lift bay, we extended the interior of the garage bay on that side to follow the roof line. Glad I did, because it would be a tight fit with a 9.5-10 foot ceiling. I would not be able to leave it at its highest setting like it is now.
Thanks for the reply. I need to measure mine and compare. Im going to be fitting my daily (getting an e300 soon) and possibly looking for a 6mt 5.2 R8 next year which would like your porsche sit above. if i need to raise the roof i should be ok as above the garage is the attic which we dont use at all.
No--that's optional. The structure of the lift itself and the weight of the car keep it stable. I have hydronic radiant heat tubing in the garage floor, so I didn't want to run the risk of drilling into the tubing.
@@AutoPilotgogogo great video, I'm also on Long Island and considering the same setup. I'm building a new garage and about to run hydronic radiant and pour the slab. Did you have to use a higher PSI foamular/styrofoam insulation board? The standard seems to be 25psi and I'm concerned it may not be strong enough under the 6" slab. Thanks!
Wish I could answer that--I'm not sure. Our contractor took care of it. I'm sure if you ask a couple of contractors, or even the company that installs the lift, they will have the answer. It is absolutely fantastic once it's installed, though. One of my favorite features of the house! My wife was actually laughing about it just yesterday--at one point during the interior renovation of our house, with workers coming and going through the front door all day, and the garage floor already completed with radiant heat, the garage was the warmest and quietest room in the house. She did some work and phone calls from the garage at times until the construction was done!
@@AutoPilotgogogo Thanks for the quick reply. The lift company was no help on foam psi, will try a few others. That's a great endorsement of radiant! It's a last minute addition to this project, but after hearing stories like yours we had to go for it. BTW I was quoted almost double for the CLP49X version! I know prices are up, but wow.
Adding the mirrors in front of the lift is a great idea.
Thanks--really helps me stay centered
Very helpful thanks! Getting this done soon, answered all my concerns.
Great--glad it helped!
I just ordered the CL4P7 and the rolling jack based on your excellent video! I almost went with the Bend Pak but the space between the columns would have been an issue with my Viper TA
Congrats. I think you’ll like it. See if the arms of the bridge jack extend wide enough to reach the jacking points of your Viper. If not, consider extension pieces from SVI International-much more economical than the extensions from Challenger: th-cam.com/video/FwbbID2WtUg/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoPilotgogogo Thanks for the tip!
@@mT_atvF5KCVHlk Absolutely. I'm paradocs98 on rennlist.
@@AutoPilotgogogo BTW, do you have the CL4P7?
@@mT_atvF5KCVHlk CL4P9S, just slightly higher weight rating
excellent i brought a townhouse i rent out the single garage is 15 feet high 12 feet wide 25 feet long concrete floor its the tallest single brick garage i have ever seen i was thinking one of these would be a great addition .
Good vid. Very informative. Thank you
Can someone help me please? 1) Can you suggest any proven methods of installing such a lift in a garage that has a slope of at least 4-5 inches? 2) Also, would the lift shift if I don’t bolt it to the ground? (I would rather not anchor it as my concrete slab is only 4 inches thick.) Last question: 3) Is 4 inch thick concrete floor even enough to to support the lift with the vehicles? I would appreciate if you could please answer all or at least some of my questions🙏
Will try to answer as best I can, Peter. But absolutely confirm with a professional installer prior to having the work done. It's well worth the additional few hundred bucks to have a local lift dealer/pro plan out and perform the installation. Safety is paramount with this kind of project. 1 and 2) My garage floor has a decent amount of slope to it, but probably not as much as you're describing. The installer may have a method to place shims under the lift's posts at the lower/garage-door side to even it out. But then they would likely insist on bolting the lift to the floor so it doesn't shift on the shims. 3) From what I understand, 4" reinforced concrete is considered the minimum thickness to safely support a lift. But again, consult with an installer to confirm. Good that you're asking the right questions for planning--it's worth it in the long run.
American made too. Pretty high qaulity stuff
So, if the bridge jack lifts up off the runway rollers when the lift is in the down position, there is less clearance between the jack and your vehicle than when it was in the up position during your illustration of the clearance. So, my question: how much does it lift up off the rollers? Also, do the rollers lock when it's lifting your vehicle or could your vehicle have the potential of rolling down the runway while on the lifted jacks?
Excellent point. I will officially measure next time I have the lift in the bottom position, but my estimate is that the bridge jacks only pop up 1/4 to 1/2 inch when the lift is fully down against the ground. The GT4 doesn't scrape along them when I drive it onto the lift ramps, and the car sits pretty low--it's been lowered a bit on its adjustable suspension, and since it's on 19" wheels/tires rather than the stock 20" setup, yet the tires have the same aspect ratio as stock, the overall diameter of the wheel/tire combo is 1 inch less than stock. So the car sits 1/2 inch lower than stock just due to the 19" wheels, and a bit more than that due to the suspension adjustment. As for the bridge jacks rolling or moving when supporting the car, it hasn't been an issue for me with any of the cars I've had on the jacks. The bridge jacks themselves are really heavy, so moving them by themselves (unloaded with no car on them) takes some effort. Trying to slide them with a car on them would likely be close to impossible.
Looks pretty sweet, just wondering about the posts shaking @5:34, is that normal/acceptable/expected? HUGE oversight of them not making wide enough jack arms, what were they thinking, did they even test with modern cars? Found a solution yet? Otherwise, it is a great all-in-one system.
Yes--that certainly can appear disconcerting. But that occurs as the lift reaches its lowest point and the weight rests on the inside edges of each post's plinth. It pulls the posts in a bit. It's not really a safety concern in that lowest setting on the ground. My posts are not bolted into the concrete slab, because I have radiant heat in the floor and didn't want to risk hitting the radiant tubing. But operating the lift without the posts being bolted to the floor is perfectly acceptable as per Challenger. In fact, there are accessory legs/wheels that you can attach to move the entire thing around in the garage if you need to. Now that I have Swisstrax flooring installed, this movement of the posts doesn't occur anymore. I cut the tiles around the edges of the posts so that the posts themselves are still resting directly on the concrete slab, but the runways of the lift now come to rest on the Swisstrax floor in the lowest setting. So the weight of the lift and car now rests on the Swisstrax rather than the edges of the post plinths when it's fully lowered.
@@AutoPilotgogogo Oic, they weren't even bolted, but still works great. Nice the posts don't shift anymore. Awesome side benefit getting the Swisstrax!
Hi, thanks for the video it is very helpful. I am also on Long Island in eastern suffolk and I have just reached out to Ace Service and Installation about a doing an install on the challenger lift. I also have a call out to Bendpak as well. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind lettning me know what you paid for the installation of the lift. Im looking at the 7000lbs lift in my 2 car garage as well, and i'm also probably going to have to add a high lift kit to the garage door so i'm trying to get an idea of what the total with all the additional stuff added is going to cost me. Thanks
Steve T Some of the additional costs were rolled into the total expense of a house renovation/expansion that we did at the time, so I’m not sure off the top of my head how much the LiftMaster jack shaft garage door opener and elevated tracks were. Becker Garage Door did the installation and did a very nice job. They bent/pieced together track sections so that the door follows the pitch of the ceiling nicely for max clearance. The cost of the 9000lb Challenger lift plus installation was around $3500, and the two rolling bridge jacks added another $1500 or so. Also factor in having an electrician place a 220v outlet for the lift-it allows the 220v motor option which raises the lift twice as fast. Definitely worth it.
I have a 10ft ceiling. GT4 on top and Audi A6 Allroad underneath. Would this fit?
Will you post another video covering the Jackshafts in detail? Did you install both the shafts and the door extended railing? And is it wide enough for a C7 Corvette Grand Sport which is the widebody? Many thanks…. Mr DJ…
I can post a followup video detailing the jackshaft openers. I didn't do the install myself--it was done by a garage door installer. Might be doable as a DIY, but it looks like there are a lot of components involved--sensors, locks, etc.--and you would need to know how to set the tension on the cables, etc. A friend of mine at work almost lost an eye when a spring and bracket broke and released on his garage door, so I'm happy to leave that kind of thing to the experts. The extended railing was pieced together from various sections of track to follow the pitch of the garage interior roofline. Again, I can put together a video to show in more detail. As for the Corvette GS, it would be a good idea to measure the rear track width of the car from outside edge of tire to outside edge of tire to make sure it wouldn't be too wide for the lift. Challenger has very detailed measurements on their website for their various lifts. My GT4 and M2C each have about 2" to spare on either side when they're centered on the lift runways, and I'm sure the C7 GS is wider. I believe Challenger makes a wider version of the lift if necessary.
Kool Beans, Sir. Appreciate your speedy response. I did check my car’s width and the challenger and it will fit but barely. Also looking at the BendPac. What’s your take on them? Other: I’ve a YT channel, check it if you get a chance. Many thanks. Mr DJ.
BendPak lifts have been very popular over the years, but after a lot of research, I decided it was important to go with something that was truly American made of quality American steel and parts--and that means Challenger (or its sister company Quality Lifts), Mohawk, or Rotary. Too many stories of bad things happening with cheap Chinese-made lifts. It's just not worth the few hundred bucks saved during the purchase. Also, the Challenger lifts don't require connection to an air tank to operate. BendPak lifts need an air connection in order to release the locks to lower the lift. I'll check out your channel!
Did you foresee the lack of ground clearance for the Porsche and buy the optional longer ramps or did you find out the hard way?
Definitely planned for it. The GT4 is very low, especially since I’m running a 19” track wheel setup instead of the stock 20” wheels. So it sits 1/2” lower than stock. Based on my research, Corvettes, etc., require the optional extended aluminum ramps, so I ordered them from the start.
@@AutoPilotgogogo OK, thanks.
Thank you for making this video. It was very helpful to see it in action. Did you bolt the columns to the floor or are they free standing?
You can do either. The lift is stable while free standing. I chose to leave it free standing because we have hydronic radiant heat in the garage floor and I didn’t want to risk drilling into the tubing.
great review, thanks. did you ever find a solution to widen the rolling hydro jacks?
Yes indeed. I found a company that makes extension pieces for a reasonable price. See the followup video on my channel. 👍
WE know it goes down. Wanted to see operation of lever control !
PERIODT!!!!!
With the longer ramps it appears you are still scraping at the rear of the rocker panels and the front spoiler.
It is close. The rear rocker panels just clear, but the front spoiler does scrape a bit. I’ve been placing the small metal wheel stops from the ends of the runways under the leading edge of the ramps. This lifts the front of the ramps maybe 1/4”, which is enough to allow the front spoiler to clear. My car sits 1/2” lower than stock because I’m using 19” wheels instead of the stock 20” wheels, with the same aspect ratio as the stock tires. A stock-height GT4 would likely clear its front spoiler without an issue.
What did this cost with the install and delivery. I'm looking to buy the 7000 lb unit from ace and wanted to know a ballpark since your model is higher.
My installation was 3 yrs ago, so prices may have increased a bit since then, but I found the quote they gave me for the 7000lb rated CL4P7 that you're interested in (I initially planned on that one before I decided on the uprated 9S): $3650 for the lift, $125 for the 220V motor (totally worth it), $385 for the extended aluminum ramps = $4160 total which includes freight, delivery and installation. Overall more reasonable than I would have expected. Three years later I'm still very happy with it and would do it again.
What are the measurements for the outside of the columns on this model. And how have the jack ext held up when used. Thanks
Approx 106" x 175"--add a couple of inches on each end to account for the extra width of the base plates underneath each column. Rolling bridge jacks have held up well.
Thanks for the information I actually work for challenger lifts 11 years now. We are owned by snap-on finally got my lift installed did it myself with my wife’s help was a lot of work took a few days to complete. This lift is actually a cross dock unit and only had the measurements in the manual to go by. Thanks for the actual specs minus the base plates helped my decision on the 7 or 9k. I got the rolling jacks RJ 4.5 so am going to look into the ext pieces as I haven’t seen them at challenger before. If you have anymore information or the specs on the ext maybe could get them custom made at my work would be great.
@@DEE-io9li That's great! The extensions by SVI Intnl are 1.5" x 4" x 10 5/8" (outer dimensions of the steel tubing). If you want to post your email, I can send you some pics. Did you see my video featuring the extensions? th-cam.com/video/FwbbID2WtUg/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoPilotgogogo My email is stowe.daniel@ymail.com
Yep I seen your video they look like good quality and design and definitely need them. Other wise you have to find other spots to pickup on then what’s intended. I appreciate the response and pictures thanks again.
Is it possible to move the lift? I have a 30’ by 60’ garage and deciding where to put the lift is proving a challenge.
Absolutely. There are optional casters on arms that attach to the bottom of each post. When the lift is raised, it then levers itself up off the ground so you can wheel it around.
What's the depth of the bay you have it installed in?
Depth is about 19.5 ft
Who did you use to install? I’m on Long Island and are considering using ACE in Farmingdale.
I used Ace in Farmingdale. They did a nice job with installation and were priced reasonably. I found that they weren't very responsive, though, when it came to follow-up for routine maintenance (it's a good idea to have the cables/locks checked every year or two, and have parts lubricated)--couldn't get them to return my calls or emails to set up an appointment. So I had a maintenance check done instead by Accurate Automotive Equipment (owner is Howard Mansdorf, 516 941-7887). His tech was very friendly and knowledgable.
AutoPilot thanks for the response. Does accurate sell and install as well?
What lift do you have? I have my eye on the CL4P7, my concern is the lift runway height. I am 5’9”and will be using the lift to work and and store my 2 cars. Once again, my concern is the head room while.
I think they do sell and install--give them a call. I have the CL4P9S. It has a slightly higher weight rating, which wasn't so important to me, but it's also a bit longer and wider, with a higher overall lift height. I wanted to make sure I could get a sedan easily underneath, and maybe even something like a Porsche Macan SUV, which does clear under my lift (had one as a service loaner). If you're going to be doing work underneath the cars, you may want to consider doing the 9S for its higher lift height to make things easier, as long as your garage dimensions allow it. Specs are on the website: www.challengerlifts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SpecSheets_2017_FINAL_HomeStorage.pdf
Autopilot, what was the deciding factor for you to purchase a Challenger versus some of the other companies that are out on the market?
Marek Quesnel I considered Bendpak, Backyard Buddy, Mohawk and Rotary, but ended up with Challenger for a few reasons: good reputation, American made with U.S. parts, American Lift Institute safety certified, does not require compressed air for operation, right size, moderate cost, and has a dealer/installer close to me for service.
@@AutoPilotgogogo I believe that Challenger lifts are also made in China, but the Snap-On parent company owns the factory and controls management there. Challenger USA are in Louisville, but not the factory.
Is your connection 110v or 220v do you have any pictures of how it’s plugged in?
220v. You specify whether you want a 110 or 220v motor when you order the lift. The 220v cuts the rise time in half. I had an electrician hardwire the 220v connection to a junction box on the wall. All they need to do is run a 220v line from your subpanel to a junction box close to the motor location of the lift, and then hardwire the connection.
AutoPilot ok, thanks...If you have time could you email me a picture of the connection at the wall and the motor
1320str8liner@gmail.com thanks in advance
What size is the garage, including ceiling height
Roughly standard 2-car, 21’ wide x 19.5’ deep, but with ceiling over lift following the exterior roof line, 12’ high at the front and back, extending to 14’ high in the middle.
Hey Bud, Great Video! How many feet do you have from the floor to the ceiling?
Thanks--hope it was helpful. The ceiling above the lift is extended to 12.5 feet (It's only 9.5 feet for the other bay). Because there is no second floor above the lift bay, we extended the interior of the garage bay on that side to follow the roof line. Glad I did, because it would be a tight fit with a 9.5-10 foot ceiling. I would not be able to leave it at its highest setting like it is now.
Thanks for the reply. I need to measure mine and compare. Im going to be fitting my daily (getting an e300 soon) and possibly looking for a 6mt 5.2 R8 next year which would like your porsche sit above. if i need to raise the roof i should be ok as above the garage is the attic which we dont use at all.
Nice video. Did you have the lifted bolted to the floor?
No--that's optional. The structure of the lift itself and the weight of the car keep it stable. I have hydronic radiant heat tubing in the garage floor, so I didn't want to run the risk of drilling into the tubing.
@@AutoPilotgogogo great video, I'm also on Long Island and considering the same setup. I'm building a new garage and about to run hydronic radiant and pour the slab. Did you have to use a higher PSI foamular/styrofoam insulation board? The standard seems to be 25psi and I'm concerned it may not be strong enough under the 6" slab. Thanks!
Wish I could answer that--I'm not sure. Our contractor took care of it. I'm sure if you ask a couple of contractors, or even the company that installs the lift, they will have the answer. It is absolutely fantastic once it's installed, though. One of my favorite features of the house! My wife was actually laughing about it just yesterday--at one point during the interior renovation of our house, with workers coming and going through the front door all day, and the garage floor already completed with radiant heat, the garage was the warmest and quietest room in the house. She did some work and phone calls from the garage at times until the construction was done!
@@AutoPilotgogogo Thanks for the quick reply. The lift company was no help on foam psi, will try a few others. That's a great endorsement of radiant! It's a last minute addition to this project, but after hearing stories like yours we had to go for it. BTW I was quoted almost double for the CLP49X version! I know prices are up, but wow.
You’ll love radiant heat. I didn’t realize lift prices had increased so much-must be raw material costs.
How do you convince the wife on the purchase?
She was on board. This is how I spend my extra time and money, instead of golf or gambling. :)
ManUP Grow a pair. While she is out of town.
Did you get this from Costco?
WestUCoog No, I purchased it through my local Challenger dealer/installer. But it looks like Costco is a Challenger dealer/reseller as well.
Do you mind sharing who your installer is? I'm in Houston.
Look what I have!!sad