Considering a lift and trying to justify a couple extra grand for either an advantage or bendpak. Really appreciate your common-sense, facts-based, approach to your assessment of the Advantage. Cheers!
Advantage is safe less expensive it’s a full tube post vs a C-channel that bendpak uses also the inner tubing on advantage is 5x5 inches vs 4x4 inches from bendpak.
I got the xlt version and I agree 100% with everything you mentioned. Mine isn’t bolted down either. I like the ability to move it in my shop plus it’s so sturdy that it’s a non issue. I had the same issue with the front flaps but I took there advice and took them off. Your idea seems to work good but I was starting to notice the lip on the ramps was starting to bend and I liked the idea of hanging the ramps on the end of the lift. My shop is 40’ deep so I don’t have the same issue you would with your garage door. Thanks for sharing the great info!
I have the same lift and I removed the flappers/chocks on my ramp loading side and hook the ramps in the slot. It assures perfect ramp alignment anytime driving on or off and of course it won't go shooting rearward as it did in your case. I do keep them in storage if I ever want to put them back on, but I always make sure to chock my vehicle anyway so it's not going to roll off. The lift itself is really nice and as you say, overbuilt and strong. I don't bolt mine to the floor either and it's not required per Advantage. Only issue I ever had was when I went to lower a vehicle one of the locks didn't completely disengage with the unlock lever (user error) and I started to descend unevenly. I noticed it though and raised it back up and started over. Now I always do a quick visual check to make sure all the locks are out of the slot (you can see them all from one corner if you know where to look).
I love the lynch pin idea as the ramp would most definitely be a concern. My lift is on the way and I will be adding that mod immediately. Thanks for the great review
I have this lift , but the earlier version that doesn't have those flappers/stoppers , but instead it has some drop-in diamond plates just like the ramps. I was thinking about upgrading to the newer ones , but once I saw that you can't drop lock the ramps with them, I changed my mind for that specific reason. I know you already have a solution for yours , but that's something that can also be done. They're as thick as the ramps and not heavy.
Thank you for your video! I am trying to figure out which brand of lift to buy and put in my 40' X 32 garage. Thanks for pointing out the issues concerning width of most lifts. I am strongly considering a 9,000 pound capacity lift.
I have been an Advantage Lift biggot for years (and own the DX9000 lift). FYI: Advantage copied the Backyard Buddy design pioneered more than 20 years ago, then bought the company (Shell Valley?) which was a family owned steel mill. The outside slider design was an engineering breakthrough when introduced and is just a better/safer design. It's more expensive than the C-Channel lifts but is worth it. The resettles / recalibrates itself every time you send it all the way down. The standard ramps are too steep for the GT350R's front splitter; I had to use my RaceRamps to get it on top. But I usually put my 1970 Boss 302 on top and my 2019GT350R on the bottom.
Maybe I'm just too biased having a repair shop, but mechanical locks on a four post lift are more trouble than they are worth. Pneumatic for the win there always. You don't even need that much of an air supply because the lift has its only supply tank. Any 3-6 gallon compressor can keep it filled for you during use. They only really work when you deactivate them.
After researching for 3 months (and visiting warehouses / showrooms all over the Mid West) I was sold on the outside slider design, I bought the (older version) Advantage SS 9000 XLT (>5 Years now) I chose it over Backyard Buddy due to having holes in the base plates (in case I ever decided to bolt it down) Besides working on my vehicles: My new (to me) pole barn has 18 foot ceilings, I also use the lift as mobile scaffolding to get to those lights and wiring overhead.
What are the dimensions of the angle iron used in your widening kit? If all you want is a visual queue you could go cheap with caution tape. For the cable style movable lifts hands down this Advantage design is the best for all the reasons you give. They ask for a pretty hefty profit margin unfortunately but it is a lifetime tool that will always have resale value and it is way cheaper than a garage addition.
Great video! I have the same lift and the same cars. I have yet to put either on the lift due to concerns over he width of the rails, so i ordered the rail widening kit. You mentioned that you added two additional bolts to the widening rails. Did you drill through, and run a bolt through the inner rail reinforcement for the center bolt? Did you have any issue with the hoses and rods that run on the inside of the rail when adding the additional bolts? Does your 350R get on the lift okay with the 3' ramps? Thanks!
drilled all the way through. just had to be careful around the hoses and lock rod, made sure the bolts weren't to long. the cars get on and off with no scrap issues. th-cam.com/video/6sOCG3LRPUM/w-d-xo.html
@@EnthusiastsGarage Thanks for the info. I just received my widening kit. What did you use to drill through the 1/4" steel?. I was thinking about using a 3/4" Milwaukee Hole Dozer with my impact drill?
Considering a lift and trying to justify a couple extra grand for either an advantage or bendpak. Really appreciate your common-sense, facts-based, approach to your assessment of the Advantage. Cheers!
Advantage is safe less expensive it’s a full tube post vs a C-channel that bendpak uses also the inner tubing on advantage is 5x5 inches vs 4x4 inches from bendpak.
thank you for the video. I’m contemplating buying one of these. I really like your pinning the ramp mod.
I got the xlt version and I agree 100% with everything you mentioned. Mine isn’t bolted down either. I like the ability to move it in my shop plus it’s so sturdy that it’s a non issue. I had the same issue with the front flaps but I took there advice and took them off. Your idea seems to work good but I was starting to notice the lip on the ramps was starting to bend and I liked the idea of hanging the ramps on the end of the lift. My shop is 40’ deep so I don’t have the same issue you would with your garage door. Thanks for sharing the great info!
Thanks for the info on the adjustment on the XLT width from 75" to 79".
I have the same lift and I removed the flappers/chocks on my ramp loading side and hook the ramps in the slot. It assures perfect ramp alignment anytime driving on or off and of course it won't go shooting rearward as it did in your case. I do keep them in storage if I ever want to put them back on, but I always make sure to chock my vehicle anyway so it's not going to roll off. The lift itself is really nice and as you say, overbuilt and strong. I don't bolt mine to the floor either and it's not required per Advantage. Only issue I ever had was when I went to lower a vehicle one of the locks didn't completely disengage with the unlock lever (user error) and I started to descend unevenly. I noticed it though and raised it back up and started over. Now I always do a quick visual check to make sure all the locks are out of the slot (you can see them all from one corner if you know where to look).
WOW! Great review thank you!
I love the lynch pin idea as the ramp would most definitely be a concern. My lift is on the way and I will be adding that mod immediately. Thanks for the great review
Great video and thanks for doing it
I have this lift , but the earlier version that doesn't have those flappers/stoppers , but instead it has some drop-in diamond plates just like the ramps. I was thinking about upgrading to the newer ones , but once I saw that you can't drop lock the ramps with them, I changed my mind for that specific reason.
I know you already have a solution for yours , but that's something that can also be done. They're as thick as the ramps and not heavy.
Thank you for your video! I am trying to figure out which brand of lift to buy and put in my 40' X 32 garage. Thanks for pointing out the issues concerning width of most lifts. I am strongly considering a 9,000 pound capacity lift.
I have been an Advantage Lift biggot for years (and own the DX9000 lift). FYI: Advantage copied the Backyard Buddy design pioneered more than 20 years ago, then bought the company (Shell Valley?) which was a family owned steel mill. The outside slider design was an engineering breakthrough when introduced and is just a better/safer design. It's more expensive than the C-Channel lifts but is worth it. The resettles / recalibrates itself every time you send it all the way down. The standard ramps are too steep for the GT350R's front splitter; I had to use my RaceRamps to get it on top. But I usually put my 1970 Boss 302 on top and my 2019GT350R on the bottom.
Great video, thank you!
Great review. Thanks
Maybe I'm just too biased having a repair shop, but mechanical locks on a four post lift are more trouble than they are worth. Pneumatic for the win there always. You don't even need that much of an air supply because the lift has its only supply tank. Any 3-6 gallon compressor can keep it filled for you during use. They only really work when you deactivate them.
After researching for 3 months (and visiting warehouses / showrooms all over the Mid West)
I was sold on the outside slider design,
I bought the (older version) Advantage SS 9000 XLT (>5 Years now)
I chose it over Backyard Buddy due to having holes in the base plates (in case I ever decided to bolt it down)
Besides working on my vehicles:
My new (to me) pole barn has 18 foot ceilings, I also use the lift as mobile scaffolding to get to those lights and wiring overhead.
What are the dimensions of the angle iron used in your widening kit? If all you want is a visual queue you could go cheap with caution tape.
For the cable style movable lifts hands down this Advantage design is the best for all the reasons you give. They ask for a pretty hefty profit margin unfortunately but it is a lifetime tool that will always have resale value and it is way cheaper than a garage addition.
Great review…. Someone may have asked already: How high is your ceiling? Thanks!
10’9”
@@EnthusiastsGarage Great! I’m gonna get the deck widening kit for my ‘07 GT500. Thanks!
Great video. Thank you for putting together. What type of wax are you using on the 4 posts? And what time of grease have you used on your hoist?
basic paste wax. red and tacky grease on the pulleys.
Hello..is it possible to tell what the installation costs was? Thanks
$1200
Great video! I have the same lift and the same cars. I have yet to put either on the lift due to concerns over he width of the rails, so i ordered the rail widening kit. You mentioned that you added two additional bolts to the widening rails. Did you drill through, and run a bolt through the inner rail reinforcement for the center bolt? Did you have any issue with the hoses and rods that run on the inside of the rail when adding the additional bolts? Does your 350R get on the lift okay with the 3' ramps? Thanks!
drilled all the way through. just had to be careful around the hoses and lock rod, made sure the bolts weren't to long. the cars get on and off with no scrap issues. th-cam.com/video/6sOCG3LRPUM/w-d-xo.html
@@EnthusiastsGarage Thanks for the info. I just received my widening kit. What did you use to drill through the 1/4" steel?. I was thinking about using a 3/4" Milwaukee Hole Dozer with my impact drill?
What is your drive thru clearance (tires) on this lift? I have a 2024 Z06 and my old lift doesn't work for the car.
84 1/2 inches. Any wider and you would hit the covers for the pulleys.
are those CF wheels ?
Yep
almost 30 min video on a lift? How much did they pay you.
duh…ya 24’ x 24”. There are smaller condos