@@realstreetperformance thank you for this info! I have a newly rebuilt OEM 2JZ GTE 500WHP single turbo on 93 octane. What would you recommend for oil ?
All of this is widely known info to anybody who understands engines, how they're built, how to build them with particular parts, etc. You all should be so luck to have this dude, Jay, sharing this with you. Invaluable if you ask me!
This explanation is fantastic. Just keep in mind what you’re trying to achieve. If max horsepower is your main concern go for a lighter viscosity, but just be mindful that everything will wear much faster. High ZDDP isn’t the be all and end all - it’s great for protecting cams and gears, but comes at the cost of increased friction as the surface roughness of an anti wear film is higher than machined surfaces. One other thing - racing oils tend to be some of the few oils that are still truly 100% synthetic. PAO molecules have lower traction coefficients than even the most highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, helping to lower the internal friction. Also, not all PAOs are equal! mPAO has lower traction than cPAO!
Keep this in mind chief...this is agent "J"'s channel and you can keep your "think you know better" comments to a discrete knucklehead forum. He is not speaking on the arm chair. He lives it and as such "knows" what he is talking about. Not guessing, or educatedly guessing. "IF" you trolls would shut your pie holes, you may actually learn something...even if its how now to be a twatwaffle. (look it up)
@@tedhollister5814 Did you check out the guys chanel who you are ragging on??? He is a lubrication engineer. I think maybe it is your pie hole that is stuck wide open Ted
@@tedhollister5814 Maybe you should read and learn something about the commenter before you open your trap. He's an engineer that worked for ExxonMobil for quite a while.
@@chrisbradley3224 Oh, the humanity! Guess I'll stay in the truck... when I think of pao, its kung pao [and a cold beer]. I've only just begun to go down this rabbit hole of oil testing & standards, and complexities abound.
Hello Jay, you should consider on doing a podcast. Your recent videos explaining stuff is packed with knowledge. Hope you wouldn’t get tired on feeding people information! Much love from P.I.!
Hey Dell. If you go back through our channel, I started these types of videos around 2011. I haven’t gotten tired of it. But there have been gaps of inactivity when I get busy at work. The hardest part is making the time to maintain a steady posting schedule. Lately we added some great people to the team and have been able to maintain a listing schedule of every Friday. I enjoy it
Thanks for watching! We have a lot more videos like this, feel free to browse our channel and check them out. We have a series called “tech tips” and other videos that are helpful and free.
@@realstreetperformance made a stupid decision of buying a 04 forester 5MT 257 swap blew up right away. Here I am two years later just about to get the engine in the car
500hp+ stock engines is the question I have. Considering the clearances are small yet the loads are greater is it just a ticking time bomb or is there a way to combat that?
Follow the OEM instructions. They designed the engine to handle the rated power output. It's not "oh Greg eyeballed the schematics and thinks this design will do". They simulate the shit out of it, have tons of miles on test mules, etc.
True, but be CAREFUL about what viscosity to use in these "newer" engines. I have a '96 BMW with hydraulic lifters and the manual recommends 20w-50 summer, 10w-40 winter. But my friends newer 2014 BMW is saying to use thinner oils. Can they both be right? Nope, if you have a solid oil pump, thicker oil will lubricate better, not breakdown as easily, and create better compression - which also is important. Using 100% Synthetic oil (NOT Full Synthetic which is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil) will really help, as will oil additives which will also help the oil viscosity - i.e. get to all the parts the oil needs to. I'm a fan of Slick 50 (SAE 30 which blends great with the 15w-50 I use, and has yet to let me down ), but if you can afford it Archoil makes some really good additives. But most importantly is using 100% Synthetic oil, it has 3-4 times more lubrication than the "blended" oils and lasts 3-4 times longer before thermal breakdown. Slick 50 is 10X better lubricating than standard oil. Just don't buy into these new 0w-20 low viscosity oils , which I think are junk. Just my opinion, but I do consider myself a knowledgeable mechanic some 12 years experience.
If all your internals are factory spec...then stick to factory spec oils. You may need to increase your oil change intervals if you're hard on it. Cut them down to 2500miles if you drive like I do..
Just switched to vr1 in my 12 mustang 3.7. It's the only oil I have ever used where my dyno was consistently 5-6hp higher. My tuner asked did I change air filter or something. I know I sound crazy but 6800-7800rpm I can feel engine feels smother. I prefer it over ansoil,redline,ect..
@@simbanugz2906 have been using it for years and have sent oil samples out on motors that have used it, these motors see 6-7hp per cubic in 4cylinders.
Your videos are really informative! Have a built b18c1 with ACL extra oil clearance bearings, S2 PRO1 cams, supertech head package with dual springs and titanium retainers etc. Should we run vr1 20w50 or 10W40? In Northeast PA.
Yeah great video, very informative.i'm running a 2.0 tfsi vag turbo engine with stock clearances but with stronger valvesprings, the engine is running around double the horsepower on a hybrid turbo setup, on 5w30 i am thinking of switching to 5w40 which is still a stock viscosity for my engine, it's just switching from longlife to regular synthetic, so i think i will be good, never had any issues on the 5w30 but on cold start the valvetrain makes a bit of noise, not much but i rather be safe than sorry sonce i am running a rather expensive stage 1 cnc ported cilinderhead wich i don't want to brick in the long run, and also my high pressure fuel pump is driven off the camshaft so my best bet is up the viscosity for that longevity.👍
It’s amazing to know that this level of experience and expertise from a company exists locally to me. Its also amazing to know that I can can up Real Street and have people that know what there’re talking about answer these important questions. Thank you Jay and Real Street for these videos. It definitely opens up the floor for the right conversations surrounding building and managing modern street and race engines. 🤘🏼
Many buy a generic oil pump and call it good. No, stay oem. Buy a new oem oil pump then send it off to 4P Piston racing for a check up and porting to avoid cavitation. Very very important
Thanks a lot for the heaps of knowledge. The million dollars question is, if am on stock block and stock clearances and fully built head, and my engine is running 600whp boosted compared to 200whp NA, so should I keep using stock oil? Am talking about boosted F22C and 4b11T. Thanks again Jay
According to what he said, with stock clearances you should follow the oem oil recommendation. Engineering Explained did a video which concluded this as well.
Can you explain 'racing-engine' in the context of this video? The reason why I am watching this video is because I have a ZX6R motorcycle which I use only on the race-track. The ECU has a different mapping on it for more power and higher RPM-limit in all gears. However I haven't made any mechanical changes to the engine-block which might change any clearances. Since it's exclusively used on race-tracks, meaning high-load and high-rev environments, can I still consider it a race-engine? I guess the very end of the video kind of touches on it.
Any chance we can get video about how you determine what the right oil weight is, things you look for? math you do? I have bin going back n forth with my self or a while questioning if i need to step up the weight in my build more
Im new to JZ ownership, and was considering Valvoline VR1 for the high ZDDP. Would you make a vid more in depth about ZDDP & why more is not always better??
Short answer - the “P” in ZDDP (Phosphorous) poisons catalysts, which is why standard engine oils have been steadily reducing the amount of ZDDP in formulations. It’s mainly an emissions regulation thing. Secondly, ZDDP forms a sacrificial anti wear film on metal surfaces, but the film isn’t uniform and higher surface roughness than a typical machined surface. As a result, too much ZDDP can increase friction of internal sliding surfaces within the engine.
Would this 20w-50 hurt a 5.3 non race engine? Been running 15w-40 along with Lucas for the last 4-5 years. Super high miles daily driven. That 15-40 with Lucas was the only thing keeping the ticking quiet
Not trying to hijack this thread , , a 5.3 LS ? If so , they call for a much lighter weight. But after 4/5 years , and its still ok. , and it keeps it quite, go with it. Problem with the thick stuff, it doesn't drain back to sump as quickly. I run VR1 in my 427 sbc stroker, in the summer, and 30 or 40 in the cold months .
Hey bud what type of oil would u use for a 408 Cleveland Stroker ? Rated Around 500HP Aluminum Heads. ? Brand & Weight? I just finished the break in process
So i have a cupra stock and the oil raises to 113 degress celcius on the road when driving hard i want to put perfomance oil in it is this okay or jsut use regular oil bwt i drive hard all the time
Is there a place we can go to put our engine and it’s house power to find out what we should use... coz now I’m not sure I’m using the right oil... I’m using castrol edge 15-30
How about this one: I have a 2023 Toyota Supra A91 6MT. It runs BMWs famous B58 inline 6 turbo engine. I am stock at 400hp and the recommendation is 0w-20. If I tune my car and go from 400hp to say 475-550hp, would you then bump it up to 5W-30?
Pro mod build (our second, First was 1800whp 5.24 in the 1/8th..) Current 2500WHP 2450lbs line weight, methanol fuel twin turbo. What oil do you recommend?
Hi: I currently have a Vintage hydroplane race boat with Chev small block 389 CC 11.8 compression, run VP 112 feul engine puts out 659 HP currently using Amsoil 15 W 50 racining oil is this a good oil also preheat oil 10 minumtes berfore each race engine 7500 RPM rev limiter would valvolin VR 1 sythetic be as good or what other oil do you recomend. By way each races last only about 6 min. the first lap at mid speed till oil warms up. with the engine turning average 7000 rpm, Christopher ottawa canada
What about engines that are built. But maybe not make the horsepower levels of a boosted engine?. The build im doing on my engine is quite weird for the car im doing. All-motor with 272 cams, 12.5:1 pistons, on bc625 rods for a 3000gt. Its the only 1 ever attempted. So information on oil and clearances is pretty much non-existent. not sure whether to run stock clearances or a bit looser with thicker weight oil. Plan on running E-85.
I just bought new twin turbos for my 335i(N54). I was recommended by the guys that rebuilt my turbos to use Motul X-Cess Gen 2. From researching it seems like this is a good oil between race and street use. I have no modified internals, pretty much FBO. Was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions/thoughts for oils that would suit my needs?
Jeff, the more methanol you run, the more it will affect the oil. So yes running race oil with methanol would be a good idea. We use HPL Race oil with using methanol or ethanol. Shoot me an email at parts@realstreetperformance.com for more info
@@realstreetperformance I’m driving a stock a45 with stock turbo with snow performance wmi. Since it’s stock engine I’m still running 0w-40. That mesns i need to up it to 0w-50?
Jeff since you haven’t changed the bearing clearance and are on the stock turbo I wouldn’t worry about changing weights. I would just go to a race oil in your factory weight. Shoot me an email and we will get you all set up
Instead of buying racing oil that is high in zinc, can you buy full synthetic oil such as mobil 1, pennzoil, castrol etc that is the correct manufacturer specification and viscosity then add Zinc additive??? You can get zinc additive separately (zddp) then use it with full synthetic oil. Any issues with that compared to valvoline or amzoil race oil for example?
@@alouisschafer7212 I've been doing this on all my street cars and track car with no issues but maybe I could get a more expert opinion since I have no proof it is working or not. All I can say some of my cars have high mileage with no issues so something must be working.
@@realstreetperformance Thank you, I bought this car last year and dont drive it alot, It was built in 2016 and I plan to do an overhaul of the entire car. The old owner told me it was tuned on 94 octane. There are a few questionable things happening under the hood, slight bit of fuel in my oil catch can.. Head slightly smelling of fuel under cap..
Wouldn’t oil volume also be a consideration with clearances? I’ve seen a NA 10.5 engine with .003 on the mains and it ran the thinnest racing oil royal purple made.
i agree my friend james is right. I have a corolla tsport (2zzge engine 192hp 1.800cc and 8,350rpm) and some people had a problem with intake camshaft wear, Toyota recommends 5w30 oil, but the most people, like me, use 5w40 or 5w50, I use liqui moly molygen 5w40 because it also has anti-friction, what do you recommend for this engine if you want to tell me? the use is not on a track and extreme temperatures continuously but I often reach 8,350rpm.
I have a 2zzge engine 1.8 and its vortec v2 procharged with high speed bearings and i am running upto 350 hp with bone stock engine so whats the best engine oil for high speed bearings and the engine as well thanks
I liked this video. Me personally, I use mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. And a quart of Valvoline VR 10w30. My 2003 Cadillac CTS has gutted catts. Not worried about their safety
Been useing Millers CFS 10w50 NT+ TRIPLE ester race oil for years, in a high hp Evo, no oil consumption, oil changed atleast twice a year. Best stuff i've ever used. Millers oils is made in the uk.
Fantastic information! If there was ever a chance to become an apprentice, no matter the years or experience in the industry, it would be a honor to be mentored by Jay and Real Street team!
Good video. My Red sport calls out for 0w20, but we find that these VR30’s tend to burn some oil quite a bit. After some Blackstone lab analysis the viscosity is far from 0w20. I’ve now chosen to use 0w30 for the same cold start protection and the 30 weight helps with the viscosity break down especially with the heat here in Florida and the abuse my FBO engine gets at the track.
Thank you very much Jay for your time to share your knowledge about mechanisms of the engine running. Like it a lot most of your videos. Love and peace from Timor Leste
Wonderful information Jay!! Long time fan!!Thanks for taking the time out to make videos and informing us of very valuable information. Keep up the great work!!!
In my race engine 2.2L f20b I run Motul 300v 5w40 ester. I used to run Amsoil z-rod 10w30 high zinc race oil but it kept breaking down after a session of track usage. The 300v of what I seen so far resist alot against e85 and it lasted me for afew tracks days before changing. I do have also a infinite oil filter and I always open it and check for particulates. Best oil I've seen in over 20 years. Motul is my #1 for me.
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions I run e85 or M1 in my race engine. Because of my ring gap @.022" top ring and .024" secondary ring i do get alot of blow by. I check my oil at a local lab that tests all types of oil. They told me because if the fueling I'm running the base oil Amsoil is breaking down faster vs the Motul. The base oil property in Amsoil is what breaks done the fastest not the additives. So I was replacing my engine oil almost every track event. With motul I replace my oil every 1500 miles or so. Depending on how hard and hot was the day and driving.
b16a2 86mm darton mid sleeved 9-1 compression ratio builder is using acl hx bearing i don't understand why he would want smaller clearance ? he told me the engine would but much happier with a smaller clearance then standard clearances
The wisdom this Jay guys spews out of his mouth. Greatness.
Thanks Mitch
@@realstreetperformance thank you for this info! I have a newly rebuilt OEM 2JZ GTE 500WHP single turbo on 93 octane. What would you recommend for oil ?
@@realstreetperformance One should oblige every enthusiast to watch this video. Too many ignorant people gamble on what is right!
grtz
All of this is widely known info to anybody who understands engines, how they're built, how to build them with particular parts, etc.
You all should be so luck to have this dude, Jay, sharing this with you.
Invaluable if you ask me!
@@realstreetperformance It's agent "J"
This explanation is fantastic. Just keep in mind what you’re trying to achieve. If max horsepower is your main concern go for a lighter viscosity, but just be mindful that everything will wear much faster. High ZDDP isn’t the be all and end all - it’s great for protecting cams and gears, but comes at the cost of increased friction as the surface roughness of an anti wear film is higher than machined surfaces. One other thing - racing oils tend to be some of the few oils that are still truly 100% synthetic. PAO molecules have lower traction coefficients than even the most highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, helping to lower the internal friction. Also, not all PAOs are equal! mPAO has lower traction than cPAO!
Thanks for adding to the conversation!
Keep this in mind chief...this is agent "J"'s channel and you can keep your "think you know better" comments to a discrete knucklehead forum. He is not speaking on the arm chair. He lives it and as such "knows" what he is talking about. Not guessing, or educatedly guessing. "IF" you trolls would shut your pie holes, you may actually learn something...even if its how now to be a twatwaffle. (look it up)
@@tedhollister5814 Did you check out the guys chanel who you are ragging on??? He is a lubrication engineer. I think maybe it is your pie hole that is stuck wide open Ted
@@tedhollister5814 Maybe you should read and learn something about the commenter before you open your trap. He's an engineer that worked for ExxonMobil for quite a while.
@@chrisbradley3224 Oh, the humanity! Guess I'll stay in the truck... when I think of pao, its kung pao [and a cold beer].
I've only just begun to go down this rabbit hole of oil testing & standards, and complexities abound.
Awesome info jay ! , something that is easily overlooked by many
Thanks for joining the conversation Julian
Hello Jay, you should consider on doing a podcast. Your recent videos explaining stuff is packed with knowledge. Hope you wouldn’t get tired on feeding people information! Much love from P.I.!
Hey Dell. If you go back through our channel, I started these types of videos around 2011. I haven’t gotten tired of it. But there have been gaps of inactivity when I get busy at work. The hardest part is making the time to maintain a steady posting schedule. Lately we added some great people to the team and have been able to maintain a listing schedule of every Friday. I enjoy it
Jay’s that uncle with the bad ass car and shop willing to spoil (you) his nieces and nephew in all things fast and automotive lol
Man, I love these videos. So informative and easy to understand as a non native English speaker and not an expert with engines. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it
Jay always has the best info in a tight convenient and fluid package!
Thanks for the support!
Never thought about the bearing clearances being one of the reasons why race engines use such thick oil. Super cool info.
Thanks for the feedback Alex
Thanks for not having a massive intro - great videos
Yes sir. Thanks for the feedback
Just the video i needed to see, had some questions in my head and they were answered. Thx again Jay
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help
Great video Guys. Thanks for the tips Jay
Thanks Pedro!
Brilliant explanation and very informative.. Always learning new stuff while watching your videos
I love that you guys are doing educational videos now
Thanks for watching! We have a lot more videos like this, feel free to browse our channel and check them out. We have a series called “tech tips” and other videos that are helpful and free.
@@realstreetperformance made a stupid decision of buying a 04 forester 5MT 257 swap blew up right away. Here I am two years later just about to get the engine in the car
500hp+ stock engines is the question I have. Considering the clearances are small yet the loads are greater is it just a ticking time bomb or is there a way to combat that?
Follow the OEM instructions. They designed the engine to handle the rated power output. It's not "oh Greg eyeballed the schematics and thinks this design will do". They simulate the shit out of it, have tons of miles on test mules, etc.
True, but be CAREFUL about what viscosity to use in these "newer" engines. I have a '96 BMW with hydraulic lifters and the manual recommends 20w-50 summer, 10w-40 winter. But my friends newer 2014 BMW is saying to use thinner oils. Can they both be right? Nope, if you have a solid oil pump, thicker oil will lubricate better, not breakdown as easily, and create better compression - which also is important. Using 100% Synthetic oil (NOT Full Synthetic which is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil) will really help, as will oil additives which will also help the oil viscosity - i.e. get to all the parts the oil needs to. I'm a fan of Slick 50 (SAE 30 which blends great with the 15w-50 I use, and has yet to let me down ), but if you can afford it Archoil makes some really good additives. But most importantly is using 100% Synthetic oil, it has 3-4 times more lubrication than the "blended" oils and lasts 3-4 times longer before thermal breakdown. Slick 50 is 10X better lubricating than standard oil. Just don't buy into these new 0w-20 low viscosity oils , which I think are junk. Just my opinion, but I do consider myself a knowledgeable mechanic some 12 years experience.
If all your internals are factory spec...then stick to factory spec oils. You may need to increase your oil change intervals if you're hard on it. Cut them down to 2500miles if you drive like I do..
@@johannjohann6523 Archoil 9200 V2 is good shit 😉 WS2 and organic Molybdenum MoDTC oh that's a lubrication engineers dream.
Thanks Jay for all your god Tech Tip videos.
Thanks for the support
Youre my man crush Jay, just wanted you to know 🤣
Haha thanks Shelton
Good video. Been using valevoline VR1 in all the engines I build. Appears to be a good race oil.
Just switched to vr1 in my 12 mustang 3.7. It's the only oil I have ever used where my dyno was consistently 5-6hp higher. My tuner asked did I change air filter or something. I know I sound crazy but 6800-7800rpm I can feel engine feels smother. I prefer it over ansoil,redline,ect..
@@simbanugz2906 have been using it for years and have sent oil samples out on motors that have used it, these motors see 6-7hp per cubic in 4cylinders.
Great Video, Informative, Appreciated. Keep It Up.
Thanks Bjorn
Your videos are really informative!
Have a built b18c1 with ACL extra oil clearance bearings, S2 PRO1 cams, supertech head package with dual springs and titanium retainers etc.
Should we run vr1 20w50 or 10W40? In Northeast PA.
Have a good day everyone
You too!
Racing oil is great for small, air-cooled engines, especially in hot weather. 20w50 VR1 is tops.
Most dedicated racing oils have little to no detergents and will need to be changed a lot more often if run in a street car.
Yeah great video, very informative.i'm running a 2.0 tfsi vag turbo engine with stock clearances but with stronger valvesprings, the engine is running around double the horsepower on a hybrid turbo setup, on 5w30 i am thinking of switching to 5w40 which is still a stock viscosity for my engine, it's just switching from longlife to regular synthetic, so i think i will be good, never had any issues on the 5w30 but on cold start the valvetrain makes a bit of noise, not much but i rather be safe than sorry sonce i am running a rather expensive stage 1 cnc ported cilinderhead wich i don't want to brick in the long run, and also my high pressure fuel pump is driven off the camshaft so my best bet is up the viscosity for that longevity.👍
Useful tips. Thank you sir 😊😁
Thanks for watching Adrian
Is Amazon synthetic equivalent to expensive oil like say Mobil1? Looking at 5w30
It’s amazing to know that this level of experience and expertise from a company exists locally to me. Its also amazing to know that I can can up Real Street and have people that know what there’re talking about answer these important questions. Thank you Jay and Real Street for these videos. It definitely opens up the floor for the right conversations surrounding building and managing modern street and race engines. 🤘🏼
Many buy a generic oil pump and call it good. No, stay oem. Buy a new oem oil pump then send it off to 4P Piston racing for a check up and porting to avoid cavitation. Very very important
Thanks I like your input 😊
Jay is an absolute savant
Thanks Marcos
Thanks Jay!
Thank YOU for watching
Awesome content!
Thank you
what oil should be used when adapting a gasoline engine to LP gas, now it is hotter
Thanks a lot for the heaps of knowledge. The million dollars question is, if am on stock block and stock clearances and fully built head, and my engine is running 600whp boosted compared to 200whp NA, so should I keep using stock oil? Am talking about boosted F22C and 4b11T. Thanks again Jay
According to what he said, with stock clearances you should follow the oem oil recommendation. Engineering Explained did a video which concluded this as well.
Thanks for u knowledge ..
Thanks for watching
Wont thicker oil affect the cam journals seeing how those clearances stay tight?
one of my main bearing is 0.020 mm , 0.0008 inch clearance, which little bit on the limit and I worry that it will too tight
Very informative.
600whp 2jz build, i was going with king xp standard size bearings. aggrandize my clearances are too tight for that power.
Living Legend !!!!
Can you explain 'racing-engine' in the context of this video? The reason why I am watching this video is because I have a ZX6R motorcycle which I use only on the race-track. The ECU has a different mapping on it for more power and higher RPM-limit in all gears. However I haven't made any mechanical changes to the engine-block which might change any clearances. Since it's exclusively used on race-tracks, meaning high-load and high-rev environments, can I still consider it a race-engine? I guess the very end of the video kind of touches on it.
Any chance we can get video about how you determine what the right oil weight is, things you look for? math you do?
I have bin going back n forth with my self or a while questioning if i need to step up the weight in my build more
Sure will do. Have you increased the oil clearance in your bearings?
@@realstreetperformance Yes, I have a K series with ACL race bearings. Have bin running 5w30 mobile 1 and feeling like it's time to move up to a 40w
Im new to JZ ownership, and was considering Valvoline VR1 for the high ZDDP. Would you make a vid more in depth about ZDDP & why more is not always better??
Sure. Will do
Short answer - the “P” in ZDDP (Phosphorous) poisons catalysts, which is why standard engine oils have been steadily reducing the amount of ZDDP in formulations. It’s mainly an emissions regulation thing. Secondly, ZDDP forms a sacrificial anti wear film on metal surfaces, but the film isn’t uniform and higher surface roughness than a typical machined surface. As a result, too much ZDDP can increase friction of internal sliding surfaces within the engine.
Now how often do I change regular synthetic oil?
After every track days? Every other? What for it to turn black, maybe with a slight gold tinge?
Awesome ! Video
Thanks Caleb!
Would this 20w-50 hurt a 5.3 non race engine? Been running 15w-40 along with Lucas for the last 4-5 years. Super high miles daily driven. That 15-40 with Lucas was the only thing keeping the ticking quiet
Not trying to hijack this thread , , a 5.3 LS ? If so , they call for a much lighter weight. But after 4/5 years , and its still ok. , and it keeps it quite, go with it. Problem with the thick stuff, it doesn't drain back to sump as quickly. I run VR1 in my 427 sbc stroker, in the summer, and 30 or 40 in the cold months .
Oops 50 in the summer.
Hey bud what type of oil would u use for a 408 Cleveland Stroker ? Rated Around 500HP Aluminum Heads. ? Brand & Weight? I just finished the break in process
what should i run for 500hp? clearances and oil weight? summer/fall driven lowest temp ill see outside is like 35 lowest 100 highest
So i have a cupra stock and the oil raises to 113 degress celcius on the road when driving hard i want to put perfomance oil in it is this okay or jsut use regular oil bwt i drive hard all the time
Jay I’m putting gte pistons into a ge and I’m wondering what ring gap and rod to crank tolerance should it be? Thanks.
Is there a place we can go to put our engine and it’s house power to find out what we should use... coz now I’m not sure I’m using the right oil... I’m using castrol edge 15-30
How about this one: I have a 2023 Toyota Supra A91 6MT. It runs BMWs famous B58 inline 6 turbo engine. I am stock at 400hp and the recommendation is 0w-20. If I tune my car and go from 400hp to say 475-550hp, would you then bump it up to 5W-30?
Yeah why not
Btw they recommends thinner oil for better fuel milage use 0w30 5w30, Also the b58 runs hot
Pro mod build (our second, First was 1800whp 5.24 in the 1/8th..) Current 2500WHP 2450lbs line weight, methanol fuel twin turbo. What oil do you recommend?
Hi: I currently have a Vintage hydroplane race boat with Chev small block 389 CC 11.8 compression, run VP 112 feul engine puts out 659 HP currently using Amsoil 15 W 50 racining oil is this a good oil also preheat oil 10 minumtes berfore each race engine 7500 RPM rev limiter would valvolin VR 1 sythetic be as good or what other oil do you recomend. By way each races last only about 6 min. the first lap at mid speed till oil warms up. with the engine turning average 7000 rpm, Christopher ottawa canada
Good video.
Thank you!
Hi what oil is good for a honda d series vitara fully build
oem oil weight for stock engine? even it is track only car , run at redline all time.? i dont think so
amazing
What about engines that are built. But maybe not make the horsepower levels of a boosted engine?. The build im doing on my engine is quite weird for the car im doing. All-motor with 272 cams, 12.5:1 pistons, on bc625 rods for a 3000gt. Its the only 1 ever attempted. So information on oil and clearances is pretty much non-existent. not sure whether to run stock clearances or a bit looser with thicker weight oil. Plan on running E-85.
wow really know your stuff
Thanks mr.c
I have bmw m2 n55 cp piston carrillo connection rod, pure turbo, what oil I have to use?
Schaeffer oil is the only way to go!
I just bought new twin turbos for my 335i(N54). I was recommended by the guys that rebuilt my turbos to use Motul X-Cess Gen 2. From researching it seems like this is a good oil between race and street use. I have no modified internals, pretty much FBO. Was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions/thoughts for oils that would suit my needs?
Redline 5w40, trust! Motul is good tho, but redline despite the price is really the best for BMWs, when it comes to cost then liquid moly.
Great vid. Is water methanol injection a reason to use racing oil?
Jeff, the more methanol you run, the more it will affect the oil. So yes running race oil with methanol would be a good idea. We use HPL Race oil with using methanol or ethanol. Shoot me an email at parts@realstreetperformance.com for more info
@@realstreetperformance I’m driving a stock a45 with stock turbo with snow performance wmi. Since it’s stock engine I’m still running 0w-40. That mesns i need to up it to 0w-50?
Jeff since you haven’t changed the bearing clearance and are on the stock turbo I wouldn’t worry about changing weights. I would just go to a race oil in your factory weight. Shoot me an email and we will get you all set up
@@realstreetperformance thank you so much for your recommendations. Appreciate very much
Instead of buying racing oil that is high in zinc, can you buy full synthetic oil such as mobil 1, pennzoil, castrol etc that is the correct manufacturer specification and viscosity then add Zinc additive???
You can get zinc additive separately (zddp) then use it with full synthetic oil. Any issues with that compared to valvoline or amzoil race oil for example?
Of course you can do that.
I already do that for my street car.
@@alouisschafer7212 I've been doing this on all my street cars and track car with no issues but maybe I could get a more expert opinion since I have no proof it is working or not. All I can say some of my cars have high mileage with no issues so something must be working.
I have an is300 with a 2jzgte single turbo conversion, borg warner 9174. Stock bottom end and heads. 10.1 compression. Race oil or nah?
With 10.0:1 compression you should be using e85 so yes, you want to be using race oil because of your fuel
@@realstreetperformance Thank you, I bought this car last year and dont drive it alot, It was built in 2016 and I plan to do an overhaul of the entire car. The old owner told me it was tuned on 94 octane. There are a few questionable things happening under the hood, slight bit of fuel in my oil catch can.. Head slightly smelling of fuel under cap..
Wouldn’t oil volume also be a consideration with clearances? I’ve seen a NA 10.5 engine with .003 on the mains and it ran the thinnest racing oil royal purple made.
everything is ultimately a consideration
You confirmed I should be running racing oil.
Glad I could help Tim
You omitted hydrostatic lubrication!
All the oil i run in my pulling tractor's and race cars are high in zinc and phosphorus. I built all my engines. Just saying..
Thanks for joining the conversation Courtney
Racing oil is designed for engines running Methanol.
It’s that simple.
The clearances are not any tighter than they were 30 yrs ago, such a myth. The whole reason for thinner oil is EMISSIONS!!!
Tesla owners: do not watch.
First lol
🏁
@@realstreetperformance 🍾🍾🍾
Really made me think about this, such good information. Thanks fellas, another insane video for the car world
Thanks Cody
Jay's tech tips are the best always learn something watching these videos
Thank you James
i agree my friend james is right. I have a corolla tsport (2zzge engine 192hp 1.800cc and 8,350rpm) and some people had a problem with intake camshaft wear, Toyota recommends 5w30 oil, but the most people, like me, use 5w40 or 5w50, I use liqui moly molygen 5w40 because it also has anti-friction, what do you recommend for this engine if you want to tell me? the use is not on a track and extreme temperatures continuously but I often reach 8,350rpm.
If you want your 2j too run great listen to Jay. Actually any engine because he's a Master Builder.💯🌟😎🏁🏁🏁
Thank you! I appreciate your support
I have a 2zzge engine 1.8 and its vortec v2 procharged with high speed bearings and i am running upto 350 hp with bone stock engine so whats the best engine oil for high speed bearings and the engine as well thanks
I liked this video. Me personally, I use mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. And a quart of Valvoline VR 10w30. My 2003 Cadillac CTS has gutted catts. Not worried about their safety
Thanks for joining the conversation
Great info!
Send it papi!
Fancy seeing you hear buddy 🤙🏼🇺🇸🏎
Been useing Millers CFS 10w50 NT+ TRIPLE ester race oil for years, in a high hp Evo, no oil consumption, oil changed atleast twice a year. Best stuff i've ever used. Millers oils is made in the uk.
Fantastic information! If there was ever a chance to become an apprentice, no matter the years or experience in the industry, it would be a honor to be mentored by Jay and Real Street team!
Thank you for the kind words Rick
Thank you Jay; shedding knowledge into the aftermarket world, using engineering concepts and terms.
I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching
Good video. My Red sport calls out for 0w20, but we find that these VR30’s tend to burn some oil quite a bit.
After some Blackstone lab analysis the viscosity is far from 0w20. I’ve now chosen to use 0w30 for the same cold start protection and the 30 weight helps with the viscosity break down especially with the heat here in Florida and the abuse my FBO engine gets at the track.
Thanks For joining the conversation
did you notice any less oil consumption when you changed viscosity?
If you have a giant Fast/Furious wing on the back of your turbo'd 4 cylinder......YOU NEED RACE GAS.
Thanks for joining the conversation
This channel need more followers jay always got good info 🙏
Thanks Tyson. Help us out with a share!?
I hear what you are saying but how do you explain the fact that many engines today burn a quart of oil every thousand miles?
Rotella…zinc all day baby
Thank you very much Jay for your time to share your knowledge about mechanisms of the engine running. Like it a lot most of your videos. Love and peace from Timor Leste
Thanks for the support we appreciate it!
I bought pistons and rods from you guys for my stroker 3sgte celica alltrac build and wanted to say thank you. 💯
Man that’s awesome. Thanks for joining the conversation Tom
Wonderful information Jay!! Long time fan!!Thanks for taking the time out to make videos and informing us of very valuable information. Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you for commenting!
In my race engine 2.2L f20b I run Motul 300v 5w40 ester. I used to run Amsoil z-rod 10w30 high zinc race oil but it kept breaking down after a session of track usage. The 300v of what I seen so far resist alot against e85 and it lasted me for afew tracks days before changing. I do have also a infinite oil filter and I always open it and check for particulates. Best oil I've seen in over 20 years. Motul is my #1 for me.
How have you been verifying the oil is breaking down? How do you know when its done?
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions I run e85 or M1 in my race engine. Because of my ring gap @.022" top ring and .024" secondary ring i do get alot of blow by. I check my oil at a local lab that tests all types of oil. They told me because if the fueling I'm running the base oil Amsoil is breaking down faster vs the Motul. The base oil property in Amsoil is what breaks done the fastest not the additives. So I was replacing my engine oil almost every track event. With motul I replace my oil every 1500 miles or so. Depending on how hard and hot was the day and driving.
people are sick of burning 0w 20 so they go against the recommended weight using 5w30
and solve the problem. thin oil is for better mpg
My 2015 200 2.4 was burning oil so I switched to RoyalP, same weight of 0w20 and it stopped burning oil, and its super clean even after 5,000 miles.
I use Mobile 1 AFS 0W-40 in my 10th gen si. Thank you for this knowledgeable content!
Thnx so much for that Jay. Atleast i know ive been going with the right type of oil in my car all the years and thats why its lasting
what about modded stock engines running 600-800 hp like german engines with tight clearances, stage 3 audi with larger verything and stock engine
b16a2 86mm darton mid sleeved 9-1 compression ratio builder is using acl hx bearing i don't understand why he would want smaller clearance ? he told me the engine would but much happier with a smaller clearance then standard clearances
Hey John. HX is extra oil clearance. Not smaller.
@@realstreetperformance lol i asked this for a friend now i feel bad for the builder he choose ....
I always enjoy Jay's knowledge bombs, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for joining the convo Drake
Thank you for all great videos be safe and keep boosting
Thanks Leon you too
Thank you sir for share all the tips! Really enjoy this channel!
Thanks for watching
Brilliant vid guys so simple but very helpful 👍
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching