@@realstreetperformance thank you for this info! I have a newly rebuilt OEM 2JZ GTE 500WHP single turbo on 93 octane. What would you recommend for oil ?
All of this is widely known info to anybody who understands engines, how they're built, how to build them with particular parts, etc. You all should be so luck to have this dude, Jay, sharing this with you. Invaluable if you ask me!
This explanation is fantastic. Just keep in mind what you’re trying to achieve. If max horsepower is your main concern go for a lighter viscosity, but just be mindful that everything will wear much faster. High ZDDP isn’t the be all and end all - it’s great for protecting cams and gears, but comes at the cost of increased friction as the surface roughness of an anti wear film is higher than machined surfaces. One other thing - racing oils tend to be some of the few oils that are still truly 100% synthetic. PAO molecules have lower traction coefficients than even the most highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, helping to lower the internal friction. Also, not all PAOs are equal! mPAO has lower traction than cPAO!
Keep this in mind chief...this is agent "J"'s channel and you can keep your "think you know better" comments to a discrete knucklehead forum. He is not speaking on the arm chair. He lives it and as such "knows" what he is talking about. Not guessing, or educatedly guessing. "IF" you trolls would shut your pie holes, you may actually learn something...even if its how now to be a twatwaffle. (look it up)
@@tedhollister5814 Did you check out the guys chanel who you are ragging on??? He is a lubrication engineer. I think maybe it is your pie hole that is stuck wide open Ted
@@tedhollister5814 Maybe you should read and learn something about the commenter before you open your trap. He's an engineer that worked for ExxonMobil for quite a while.
@@chrisbradley3224 Oh, the humanity! Guess I'll stay in the truck... when I think of pao, its kung pao [and a cold beer]. I've only just begun to go down this rabbit hole of oil testing & standards, and complexities abound.
i agree my friend james is right. I have a corolla tsport (2zzge engine 192hp 1.800cc and 8,350rpm) and some people had a problem with intake camshaft wear, Toyota recommends 5w30 oil, but the most people, like me, use 5w40 or 5w50, I use liqui moly molygen 5w40 because it also has anti-friction, what do you recommend for this engine if you want to tell me? the use is not on a track and extreme temperatures continuously but I often reach 8,350rpm.
Been useing Millers CFS 10w50 NT+ TRIPLE ester race oil for years, in a high hp Evo, no oil consumption, oil changed atleast twice a year. Best stuff i've ever used. Millers oils is made in the uk.
Hello Jay, you should consider on doing a podcast. Your recent videos explaining stuff is packed with knowledge. Hope you wouldn’t get tired on feeding people information! Much love from P.I.!
Hey Dell. If you go back through our channel, I started these types of videos around 2011. I haven’t gotten tired of it. But there have been gaps of inactivity when I get busy at work. The hardest part is making the time to maintain a steady posting schedule. Lately we added some great people to the team and have been able to maintain a listing schedule of every Friday. I enjoy it
Thank you very much Jay for your time to share your knowledge about mechanisms of the engine running. Like it a lot most of your videos. Love and peace from Timor Leste
I liked this video. Me personally, I use mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. And a quart of Valvoline VR 10w30. My 2003 Cadillac CTS has gutted catts. Not worried about their safety
Fantastic information! If there was ever a chance to become an apprentice, no matter the years or experience in the industry, it would be a honor to be mentored by Jay and Real Street team!
Your videos are really informative! Have a built b18c1 with ACL extra oil clearance bearings, S2 PRO1 cams, supertech head package with dual springs and titanium retainers etc. Should we run vr1 20w50 or 10W40? In Northeast PA.
In my race engine 2.2L f20b I run Motul 300v 5w40 ester. I used to run Amsoil z-rod 10w30 high zinc race oil but it kept breaking down after a session of track usage. The 300v of what I seen so far resist alot against e85 and it lasted me for afew tracks days before changing. I do have also a infinite oil filter and I always open it and check for particulates. Best oil I've seen in over 20 years. Motul is my #1 for me.
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions I run e85 or M1 in my race engine. Because of my ring gap @.022" top ring and .024" secondary ring i do get alot of blow by. I check my oil at a local lab that tests all types of oil. They told me because if the fueling I'm running the base oil Amsoil is breaking down faster vs the Motul. The base oil property in Amsoil is what breaks done the fastest not the additives. So I was replacing my engine oil almost every track event. With motul I replace my oil every 1500 miles or so. Depending on how hard and hot was the day and driving.
I have a 2zzge engine 1.8 and its vortec v2 procharged with high speed bearings and i am running upto 350 hp with bone stock engine so whats the best engine oil for high speed bearings and the engine as well thanks
Thanks for watching! We have a lot more videos like this, feel free to browse our channel and check them out. We have a series called “tech tips” and other videos that are helpful and free.
@@realstreetperformance made a stupid decision of buying a 04 forester 5MT 257 swap blew up right away. Here I am two years later just about to get the engine in the car
500hp+ stock engines is the question I have. Considering the clearances are small yet the loads are greater is it just a ticking time bomb or is there a way to combat that?
Follow the OEM instructions. They designed the engine to handle the rated power output. It's not "oh Greg eyeballed the schematics and thinks this design will do". They simulate the shit out of it, have tons of miles on test mules, etc.
True, but be CAREFUL about what viscosity to use in these "newer" engines. I have a '96 BMW with hydraulic lifters and the manual recommends 20w-50 summer, 10w-40 winter. But my friends newer 2014 BMW is saying to use thinner oils. Can they both be right? Nope, if you have a solid oil pump, thicker oil will lubricate better, not breakdown as easily, and create better compression - which also is important. Using 100% Synthetic oil (NOT Full Synthetic which is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil) will really help, as will oil additives which will also help the oil viscosity - i.e. get to all the parts the oil needs to. I'm a fan of Slick 50 (SAE 30 which blends great with the 15w-50 I use, and has yet to let me down ), but if you can afford it Archoil makes some really good additives. But most importantly is using 100% Synthetic oil, it has 3-4 times more lubrication than the "blended" oils and lasts 3-4 times longer before thermal breakdown. Slick 50 is 10X better lubricating than standard oil. Just don't buy into these new 0w-20 low viscosity oils , which I think are junk. Just my opinion, but I do consider myself a knowledgeable mechanic some 12 years experience.
If all your internals are factory spec...then stick to factory spec oils. You may need to increase your oil change intervals if you're hard on it. Cut them down to 2500miles if you drive like I do..
b16a2 86mm darton mid sleeved 9-1 compression ratio builder is using acl hx bearing i don't understand why he would want smaller clearance ? he told me the engine would but much happier with a smaller clearance then standard clearances
Wonderful information Jay!! Long time fan!!Thanks for taking the time out to make videos and informing us of very valuable information. Keep up the great work!!!
Summed up well. Only thing I would add is maybe explain the relationship of pressure and flow. Many people seem to confuse the two specifically when oil pumps and changing oil weight are being considered.
Good video. My Red sport calls out for 0w20, but we find that these VR30’s tend to burn some oil quite a bit. After some Blackstone lab analysis the viscosity is far from 0w20. I’ve now chosen to use 0w30 for the same cold start protection and the 30 weight helps with the viscosity break down especially with the heat here in Florida and the abuse my FBO engine gets at the track.
Thanks a lot for the heaps of knowledge. The million dollars question is, if am on stock block and stock clearances and fully built head, and my engine is running 600whp boosted compared to 200whp NA, so should I keep using stock oil? Am talking about boosted F22C and 4b11T. Thanks again Jay
According to what he said, with stock clearances you should follow the oem oil recommendation. Engineering Explained did a video which concluded this as well.
Any chance we can get video about how you determine what the right oil weight is, things you look for? math you do? I have bin going back n forth with my self or a while questioning if i need to step up the weight in my build more
Just switched to vr1 in my 12 mustang 3.7. It's the only oil I have ever used where my dyno was consistently 5-6hp higher. My tuner asked did I change air filter or something. I know I sound crazy but 6800-7800rpm I can feel engine feels smother. I prefer it over ansoil,redline,ect..
@@simbanugz2906 have been using it for years and have sent oil samples out on motors that have used it, these motors see 6-7hp per cubic in 4cylinders.
So i have a cupra stock and the oil raises to 113 degress celcius on the road when driving hard i want to put perfomance oil in it is this okay or jsut use regular oil bwt i drive hard all the time
How about this one: I have a 2023 Toyota Supra A91 6MT. It runs BMWs famous B58 inline 6 turbo engine. I am stock at 400hp and the recommendation is 0w-20. If I tune my car and go from 400hp to say 475-550hp, would you then bump it up to 5W-30?
Depends on what you’re trying to achieve! Just remember that the engine had to push against the higher viscosity - thicker oil will mean you lose a couple of hp, but will protect your engine better.
Hey bud what type of oil would u use for a 408 Cleveland Stroker ? Rated Around 500HP Aluminum Heads. ? Brand & Weight? I just finished the break in process
You’ve just touched break in oil for cams subjected. Shall we consider using the same brake in procedure as for the engine when replaced the cams only?
Awesome vid, I watch every single one. You guys always answer questions well when we reach out. Can you make a vid on how to store blocks prior to install. Some of us work in steps, and we dont want to ruin block before we can even play with it.
great general overview.. was surprised that you didn't go into the fact that alot of 'dedicated' race oils lack the detergent package or TBM number present in PCMO
Jeff, the more methanol you run, the more it will affect the oil. So yes running race oil with methanol would be a good idea. We use HPL Race oil with using methanol or ethanol. Shoot me an email at parts@realstreetperformance.com for more info
@@realstreetperformance I’m driving a stock a45 with stock turbo with snow performance wmi. Since it’s stock engine I’m still running 0w-40. That mesns i need to up it to 0w-50?
Jeff since you haven’t changed the bearing clearance and are on the stock turbo I wouldn’t worry about changing weights. I would just go to a race oil in your factory weight. Shoot me an email and we will get you all set up
Would this 20w-50 hurt a 5.3 non race engine? Been running 15w-40 along with Lucas for the last 4-5 years. Super high miles daily driven. That 15-40 with Lucas was the only thing keeping the ticking quiet
Not trying to hijack this thread , , a 5.3 LS ? If so , they call for a much lighter weight. But after 4/5 years , and its still ok. , and it keeps it quite, go with it. Problem with the thick stuff, it doesn't drain back to sump as quickly. I run VR1 in my 427 sbc stroker, in the summer, and 30 or 40 in the cold months .
Im new to JZ ownership, and was considering Valvoline VR1 for the high ZDDP. Would you make a vid more in depth about ZDDP & why more is not always better??
Short answer - the “P” in ZDDP (Phosphorous) poisons catalysts, which is why standard engine oils have been steadily reducing the amount of ZDDP in formulations. It’s mainly an emissions regulation thing. Secondly, ZDDP forms a sacrificial anti wear film on metal surfaces, but the film isn’t uniform and higher surface roughness than a typical machined surface. As a result, too much ZDDP can increase friction of internal sliding surfaces within the engine.
Thank you for your insight and time explaining Tech Tips. My question is: at what horsepower is it a good idea to change from a wet oil sump to dry oild sump?
Is there a place we can go to put our engine and it’s house power to find out what we should use... coz now I’m not sure I’m using the right oil... I’m using castrol edge 15-30
Solid question: The oil weight explanation makes complete sense to me... So why do some aftermarket parts manufacturers recommend heavier weights on OE bearings if you have certain upgrades? Example, I have a 2020 F150 with a 2.9 Whipple. Only internal upgrade is billet oil pump gears... OE oil weight is 5w20, Whipple recommends going to 5w50... any insight?
Hello Jay, i was wondering if i could get your opinion. I've a 2013 fiesta st 1.6 ecoboost with 140k kms, i always runned the 5w20 that the manufacter recomended, but i live in portugal where temperatures are considerabily higher than germany or england where this cars were mostly sold. I had induction kit, stage 2 intercooler, decat, exast and a 240bhp map. I used to run that car a lot fast. One day there was like 34°C and i broke it. Crankshaft got scratched, had to make full engine rebuild. Added bafled sump, new forged pistons (0.5mm larger) and rods, new crankshaft, worked engine head, king bearing and etc. I'm about to mount it on the car and i'm think of running a 5w30 motul specific with break-in additive for like 2000km and later switch to motul 300v 5w40 (wich my fiesta st coellegues use on theirs when they do trackdays. If i could get your opinion would be nice
What about if you use a thicker oil on a clapped out engine to prevent oil burning etc. I know the answer is to tear down the engine but I'm just asking not that I'm currently in this situation but I just figured it would be a good question to ask
Pro mod build (our second, First was 1800whp 5.24 in the 1/8th..) Current 2500WHP 2450lbs line weight, methanol fuel twin turbo. What oil do you recommend?
Jay i know you mainly a 2j guy but can you maybe do a video on the bmw s65 and s85 engine that normally runs rod bearings. Too much mis information on this and if you help this community at to what makes them prone to bearing failure. Is it oil or tolerances or improper warm up. Your knowledge will help alot of us
The wisdom this Jay guys spews out of his mouth. Greatness.
Thanks Mitch
@@realstreetperformance thank you for this info! I have a newly rebuilt OEM 2JZ GTE 500WHP single turbo on 93 octane. What would you recommend for oil ?
@@realstreetperformance One should oblige every enthusiast to watch this video. Too many ignorant people gamble on what is right!
grtz
All of this is widely known info to anybody who understands engines, how they're built, how to build them with particular parts, etc.
You all should be so luck to have this dude, Jay, sharing this with you.
Invaluable if you ask me!
@@realstreetperformance It's agent "J"
This explanation is fantastic. Just keep in mind what you’re trying to achieve. If max horsepower is your main concern go for a lighter viscosity, but just be mindful that everything will wear much faster. High ZDDP isn’t the be all and end all - it’s great for protecting cams and gears, but comes at the cost of increased friction as the surface roughness of an anti wear film is higher than machined surfaces. One other thing - racing oils tend to be some of the few oils that are still truly 100% synthetic. PAO molecules have lower traction coefficients than even the most highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, helping to lower the internal friction. Also, not all PAOs are equal! mPAO has lower traction than cPAO!
Thanks for adding to the conversation!
Keep this in mind chief...this is agent "J"'s channel and you can keep your "think you know better" comments to a discrete knucklehead forum. He is not speaking on the arm chair. He lives it and as such "knows" what he is talking about. Not guessing, or educatedly guessing. "IF" you trolls would shut your pie holes, you may actually learn something...even if its how now to be a twatwaffle. (look it up)
@@tedhollister5814 Did you check out the guys chanel who you are ragging on??? He is a lubrication engineer. I think maybe it is your pie hole that is stuck wide open Ted
@@tedhollister5814 Maybe you should read and learn something about the commenter before you open your trap. He's an engineer that worked for ExxonMobil for quite a while.
@@chrisbradley3224 Oh, the humanity! Guess I'll stay in the truck... when I think of pao, its kung pao [and a cold beer].
I've only just begun to go down this rabbit hole of oil testing & standards, and complexities abound.
Jay's tech tips are the best always learn something watching these videos
Thank you James
i agree my friend james is right. I have a corolla tsport (2zzge engine 192hp 1.800cc and 8,350rpm) and some people had a problem with intake camshaft wear, Toyota recommends 5w30 oil, but the most people, like me, use 5w40 or 5w50, I use liqui moly molygen 5w40 because it also has anti-friction, what do you recommend for this engine if you want to tell me? the use is not on a track and extreme temperatures continuously but I often reach 8,350rpm.
Been useing Millers CFS 10w50 NT+ TRIPLE ester race oil for years, in a high hp Evo, no oil consumption, oil changed atleast twice a year. Best stuff i've ever used. Millers oils is made in the uk.
Jay’s that uncle with the bad ass car and shop willing to spoil (you) his nieces and nephew in all things fast and automotive lol
Really made me think about this, such good information. Thanks fellas, another insane video for the car world
Thanks Cody
No disrespect to any other youtuber, but this man has all the hands on experience needed.
Awesome info jay ! , something that is easily overlooked by many
Thanks for joining the conversation Julian
Could listen to Jay talk all day.
Man, I love these videos. So informative and easy to understand as a non native English speaker and not an expert with engines. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it
Hello Jay, you should consider on doing a podcast. Your recent videos explaining stuff is packed with knowledge. Hope you wouldn’t get tired on feeding people information! Much love from P.I.!
Hey Dell. If you go back through our channel, I started these types of videos around 2011. I haven’t gotten tired of it. But there have been gaps of inactivity when I get busy at work. The hardest part is making the time to maintain a steady posting schedule. Lately we added some great people to the team and have been able to maintain a listing schedule of every Friday. I enjoy it
I bought pistons and rods from you guys for my stroker 3sgte celica alltrac build and wanted to say thank you. 💯
Man that’s awesome. Thanks for joining the conversation Tom
Thank you very much Jay for your time to share your knowledge about mechanisms of the engine running. Like it a lot most of your videos. Love and peace from Timor Leste
Thanks for the support we appreciate it!
If you want your 2j too run great listen to Jay. Actually any engine because he's a Master Builder.💯🌟😎🏁🏁🏁
Thank you! I appreciate your support
Brilliant explanation and very informative.. Always learning new stuff while watching your videos
I liked this video. Me personally, I use mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. And a quart of Valvoline VR 10w30. My 2003 Cadillac CTS has gutted catts. Not worried about their safety
Thanks for joining the conversation
Jay always has the best info in a tight convenient and fluid package!
Thanks for the support!
This channel need more followers jay always got good info 🙏
Thanks Tyson. Help us out with a share!?
Fantastic information! If there was ever a chance to become an apprentice, no matter the years or experience in the industry, it would be a honor to be mentored by Jay and Real Street team!
Thank you for the kind words Rick
Your videos are really informative!
Have a built b18c1 with ACL extra oil clearance bearings, S2 PRO1 cams, supertech head package with dual springs and titanium retainers etc.
Should we run vr1 20w50 or 10W40? In Northeast PA.
Thank you for all great videos be safe and keep boosting
Thanks Leon you too
Just the video i needed to see, had some questions in my head and they were answered. Thx again Jay
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help
In my race engine 2.2L f20b I run Motul 300v 5w40 ester. I used to run Amsoil z-rod 10w30 high zinc race oil but it kept breaking down after a session of track usage. The 300v of what I seen so far resist alot against e85 and it lasted me for afew tracks days before changing. I do have also a infinite oil filter and I always open it and check for particulates. Best oil I've seen in over 20 years. Motul is my #1 for me.
How have you been verifying the oil is breaking down? How do you know when its done?
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions I run e85 or M1 in my race engine. Because of my ring gap @.022" top ring and .024" secondary ring i do get alot of blow by. I check my oil at a local lab that tests all types of oil. They told me because if the fueling I'm running the base oil Amsoil is breaking down faster vs the Motul. The base oil property in Amsoil is what breaks done the fastest not the additives. So I was replacing my engine oil almost every track event. With motul I replace my oil every 1500 miles or so. Depending on how hard and hot was the day and driving.
Great info!
Send it papi!
Fancy seeing you hear buddy 🤙🏼🇺🇸🏎
I have a 2zzge engine 1.8 and its vortec v2 procharged with high speed bearings and i am running upto 350 hp with bone stock engine so whats the best engine oil for high speed bearings and the engine as well thanks
I love that you guys are doing educational videos now
Thanks for watching! We have a lot more videos like this, feel free to browse our channel and check them out. We have a series called “tech tips” and other videos that are helpful and free.
@@realstreetperformance made a stupid decision of buying a 04 forester 5MT 257 swap blew up right away. Here I am two years later just about to get the engine in the car
500hp+ stock engines is the question I have. Considering the clearances are small yet the loads are greater is it just a ticking time bomb or is there a way to combat that?
Follow the OEM instructions. They designed the engine to handle the rated power output. It's not "oh Greg eyeballed the schematics and thinks this design will do". They simulate the shit out of it, have tons of miles on test mules, etc.
True, but be CAREFUL about what viscosity to use in these "newer" engines. I have a '96 BMW with hydraulic lifters and the manual recommends 20w-50 summer, 10w-40 winter. But my friends newer 2014 BMW is saying to use thinner oils. Can they both be right? Nope, if you have a solid oil pump, thicker oil will lubricate better, not breakdown as easily, and create better compression - which also is important. Using 100% Synthetic oil (NOT Full Synthetic which is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil) will really help, as will oil additives which will also help the oil viscosity - i.e. get to all the parts the oil needs to. I'm a fan of Slick 50 (SAE 30 which blends great with the 15w-50 I use, and has yet to let me down ), but if you can afford it Archoil makes some really good additives. But most importantly is using 100% Synthetic oil, it has 3-4 times more lubrication than the "blended" oils and lasts 3-4 times longer before thermal breakdown. Slick 50 is 10X better lubricating than standard oil. Just don't buy into these new 0w-20 low viscosity oils , which I think are junk. Just my opinion, but I do consider myself a knowledgeable mechanic some 12 years experience.
If all your internals are factory spec...then stick to factory spec oils. You may need to increase your oil change intervals if you're hard on it. Cut them down to 2500miles if you drive like I do..
@@johannjohann6523 Archoil 9200 V2 is good shit 😉 WS2 and organic Molybdenum MoDTC oh that's a lubrication engineers dream.
Great video Guys. Thanks for the tips Jay
Thanks Pedro!
Wont thicker oil affect the cam journals seeing how those clearances stay tight?
Thnx so much for that Jay. Atleast i know ive been going with the right type of oil in my car all the years and thats why its lasting
Thank you sir for share all the tips! Really enjoy this channel!
Thanks for watching
Is Amazon synthetic equivalent to expensive oil like say Mobil1? Looking at 5w30
I use Mobile 1 AFS 0W-40 in my 10th gen si. Thank you for this knowledgeable content!
b16a2 86mm darton mid sleeved 9-1 compression ratio builder is using acl hx bearing i don't understand why he would want smaller clearance ? he told me the engine would but much happier with a smaller clearance then standard clearances
Hey John. HX is extra oil clearance. Not smaller.
@@realstreetperformance lol i asked this for a friend now i feel bad for the builder he choose ....
Brilliant vid guys so simple but very helpful 👍
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
Never thought about the bearing clearances being one of the reasons why race engines use such thick oil. Super cool info.
Thanks for the feedback Alex
Thank you Jay; shedding knowledge into the aftermarket world, using engineering concepts and terms.
I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching
Good stuff. 👏 👏👏
Thanks for watching Randall
With air cooled engine should mineral oil only be used thanks
Thanks Jay for all your god Tech Tip videos.
Thanks for the support
Thanks for not having a massive intro - great videos
Yes sir. Thanks for the feedback
Wonderful information Jay!! Long time fan!!Thanks for taking the time out to make videos and informing us of very valuable information. Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you for commenting!
what oil should be used when adapting a gasoline engine to LP gas, now it is hotter
Sound crazy but i used valvoline vr1 20/50 on my b series lsv turbo and the car performance very well at idle its on 55 psi
Summed up well. Only thing I would add is maybe explain the relationship of pressure and flow. Many people seem to confuse the two specifically when oil pumps and changing oil weight are being considered.
Yes 100% correct. So stock engine turbo B58 stage2 should use 0w30.
I always enjoy Jay's knowledge bombs, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for joining the convo Drake
Have a good day everyone
You too!
Good video. My Red sport calls out for 0w20, but we find that these VR30’s tend to burn some oil quite a bit.
After some Blackstone lab analysis the viscosity is far from 0w20. I’ve now chosen to use 0w30 for the same cold start protection and the 30 weight helps with the viscosity break down especially with the heat here in Florida and the abuse my FBO engine gets at the track.
Thanks For joining the conversation
did you notice any less oil consumption when you changed viscosity?
Thanks I like your input 😊
Love the detailed explanations!!! Thanks
Thanks for watching Ken
Thanks a lot for the heaps of knowledge. The million dollars question is, if am on stock block and stock clearances and fully built head, and my engine is running 600whp boosted compared to 200whp NA, so should I keep using stock oil? Am talking about boosted F22C and 4b11T. Thanks again Jay
According to what he said, with stock clearances you should follow the oem oil recommendation. Engineering Explained did a video which concluded this as well.
Jay is the best
Thank you 🙏🏻
Real fantastic explanation.
Any chance we can get video about how you determine what the right oil weight is, things you look for? math you do?
I have bin going back n forth with my self or a while questioning if i need to step up the weight in my build more
Sure will do. Have you increased the oil clearance in your bearings?
@@realstreetperformance Yes, I have a K series with ACL race bearings. Have bin running 5w30 mobile 1 and feeling like it's time to move up to a 40w
Good video. Been using valevoline VR1 in all the engines I build. Appears to be a good race oil.
Just switched to vr1 in my 12 mustang 3.7. It's the only oil I have ever used where my dyno was consistently 5-6hp higher. My tuner asked did I change air filter or something. I know I sound crazy but 6800-7800rpm I can feel engine feels smother. I prefer it over ansoil,redline,ect..
@@simbanugz2906 have been using it for years and have sent oil samples out on motors that have used it, these motors see 6-7hp per cubic in 4cylinders.
Can you use morotkot in combination with motor oil to lower the friction in your engine??
So i have a cupra stock and the oil raises to 113 degress celcius on the road when driving hard i want to put perfomance oil in it is this okay or jsut use regular oil bwt i drive hard all the time
Awsome content and explained well. All parts need to work together more than ever with as easy as hp is to make these days
Thanks for joining the conversation Nathan
How about this one: I have a 2023 Toyota Supra A91 6MT. It runs BMWs famous B58 inline 6 turbo engine. I am stock at 400hp and the recommendation is 0w-20. If I tune my car and go from 400hp to say 475-550hp, would you then bump it up to 5W-30?
Yeah why not
Btw they recommends thinner oil for better fuel milage use 0w30 5w30, Also the b58 runs hot
Useful tips. Thank you sir 😊😁
Thanks for watching Adrian
My engine stock clearances but double the power putting thicker oil is better…?
0w40. change every 3k maximum
Depends on what you’re trying to achieve! Just remember that the engine had to push against the higher viscosity - thicker oil will mean you lose a couple of hp, but will protect your engine better.
@@LubricationExplained my engine is turbo charged not quite sure if thicker oil always good idea for turbo bearing
@@TheXOoftheRO thanks
Many thanks to you man 👍🏻
Now how often do I change regular synthetic oil?
After every track days? Every other? What for it to turn black, maybe with a slight gold tinge?
Shell rotella T6 10w30 vs VR1 10-30w conventional
Can you use that Racing oil as a substitute for lucas oil stabilizer
Hey bud what type of oil would u use for a 408 Cleveland Stroker ? Rated Around 500HP Aluminum Heads. ? Brand & Weight? I just finished the break in process
Hi what oil is good for a honda d series vitara fully build
Racing oil is great for small, air-cooled engines, especially in hot weather. 20w50 VR1 is tops.
You’ve just touched break in oil for cams subjected. Shall we consider using the same brake in procedure as for the engine when replaced the cams only?
Great Video, Informative, Appreciated. Keep It Up.
Thanks Bjorn
Awesome vid, I watch every single one. You guys always answer questions well when we reach out. Can you make a vid on how to store blocks prior to install. Some of us work in steps, and we dont want to ruin block before we can even play with it.
great general overview.. was surprised that you didn't go into the fact that alot of 'dedicated' race oils lack the detergent package or TBM number present in PCMO
Great vid. Is water methanol injection a reason to use racing oil?
Jeff, the more methanol you run, the more it will affect the oil. So yes running race oil with methanol would be a good idea. We use HPL Race oil with using methanol or ethanol. Shoot me an email at parts@realstreetperformance.com for more info
@@realstreetperformance I’m driving a stock a45 with stock turbo with snow performance wmi. Since it’s stock engine I’m still running 0w-40. That mesns i need to up it to 0w-50?
Jeff since you haven’t changed the bearing clearance and are on the stock turbo I wouldn’t worry about changing weights. I would just go to a race oil in your factory weight. Shoot me an email and we will get you all set up
@@realstreetperformance thank you so much for your recommendations. Appreciate very much
When I was racing the only oil I found that didn't foam was Pennzoil racing oil
what about modded stock engines running 600-800 hp like german engines with tight clearances, stage 3 audi with larger verything and stock engine
Great info beside the K series oil weight for the good Ks. It’ll be 5w 30.
Would this 20w-50 hurt a 5.3 non race engine? Been running 15w-40 along with Lucas for the last 4-5 years. Super high miles daily driven. That 15-40 with Lucas was the only thing keeping the ticking quiet
Not trying to hijack this thread , , a 5.3 LS ? If so , they call for a much lighter weight. But after 4/5 years , and its still ok. , and it keeps it quite, go with it. Problem with the thick stuff, it doesn't drain back to sump as quickly. I run VR1 in my 427 sbc stroker, in the summer, and 30 or 40 in the cold months .
Oops 50 in the summer.
Do a video on PCV vent to air vs sealed.
There are TONS of pcv videos out there
Im new to JZ ownership, and was considering Valvoline VR1 for the high ZDDP. Would you make a vid more in depth about ZDDP & why more is not always better??
Sure. Will do
Short answer - the “P” in ZDDP (Phosphorous) poisons catalysts, which is why standard engine oils have been steadily reducing the amount of ZDDP in formulations. It’s mainly an emissions regulation thing. Secondly, ZDDP forms a sacrificial anti wear film on metal surfaces, but the film isn’t uniform and higher surface roughness than a typical machined surface. As a result, too much ZDDP can increase friction of internal sliding surfaces within the engine.
Thank you for your insight and time explaining Tech Tips. My question is: at what horsepower is it a good idea to change from a wet oil sump to dry oild sump?
Basically, when the wet sump system can't keep up from G forces is when id switch.
20/50 all the way👍
Awesome as always.
Thanks for the support
Awesome content!
Thank you
Is there a place we can go to put our engine and it’s house power to find out what we should use... coz now I’m not sure I’m using the right oil... I’m using castrol edge 15-30
Solid question: The oil weight explanation makes complete sense to me... So why do some aftermarket parts manufacturers recommend heavier weights on OE bearings if you have certain upgrades? Example, I have a 2020 F150 with a 2.9 Whipple. Only internal upgrade is billet oil pump gears... OE oil weight is 5w20, Whipple recommends going to 5w50... any insight?
Jay I’m putting gte pistons into a ge and I’m wondering what ring gap and rod to crank tolerance should it be? Thanks.
Thanks Jay!
Thank YOU for watching
im in Adelaide South Australia, every jz i build is 20w50 due to climate
oem oil weight for stock engine? even it is track only car , run at redline all time.? i dont think so
Thanks for u knowledge ..
Thanks for watching
Hello Jay, i was wondering if i could get your opinion.
I've a 2013 fiesta st 1.6 ecoboost with 140k kms, i always runned the 5w20 that the manufacter recomended, but i live in portugal where temperatures are considerabily higher than germany or england where this cars were mostly sold. I had induction kit, stage 2 intercooler, decat, exast and a 240bhp map. I used to run that car a lot fast. One day there was like 34°C and i broke it. Crankshaft got scratched, had to make full engine rebuild. Added bafled sump, new forged pistons (0.5mm larger) and rods, new crankshaft, worked engine head, king bearing and etc. I'm about to mount it on the car and i'm think of running a 5w30 motul specific with break-in additive for like 2000km and later switch to motul 300v 5w40 (wich my fiesta st coellegues use on theirs when they do trackdays. If i could get your opinion would be nice
what should i run for 500hp? clearances and oil weight? summer/fall driven lowest temp ill see outside is like 35 lowest 100 highest
Can I use this vr1 20w50 on my wrx
@jaymaeger how do you feel about Lucas Engine oil stabilizer?
Anthony I usually just use a dedicated race oil instead
The god of 2jz 😎 . Mine is full stock but simple bpu , I can put full synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 ?
its STILL stock regardless of Bolt-ons ...
A synthetic oil in the factory weight would be appropriate
What about if you use a thicker oil on a clapped out engine to prevent oil burning etc. I know the answer is to tear down the engine but I'm just asking not that I'm currently in this situation but I just figured it would be a good question to ask
I have bmw m2 n55 cp piston carrillo connection rod, pure turbo, what oil I have to use?
Pro mod build (our second, First was 1800whp 5.24 in the 1/8th..) Current 2500WHP 2450lbs line weight, methanol fuel twin turbo. What oil do you recommend?
Jay i know you mainly a 2j guy but can you maybe do a video on the bmw s65 and s85 engine that normally runs rod bearings. Too much mis information on this and if you help this community at to what makes them prone to bearing failure. Is it oil or tolerances or improper warm up. Your knowledge will help alot of us