Very good explanation for a job I am getting ready to do, thanks. Back in 1975 when I was living in New Jersey, I removed the Hurst Competition Plus out of my 69 GTO and took it the Hurst factory in Warminster, PA. They had a window on the side of the building where a guy in a white smock took my shifter, held it over a trash can, knocked out the pins, and let everything fall in the can. In about two minutes he reassembled it with new parts and handed it back to me, free of charge. I don't believe they do that anymore but it convinced me to use their products ever since.
Fascinating stuff, and finally, someone who can explain how these shifters work. That rotary cam setup at the end got a laugh out of everybody in the room, too.
Samniss Arandeen Thanks. That funny shifter at the end was actually designed by the same man who came up with the vertigate shifter concept used by Mr. Gasket and licensed to Hurst. Bill Bieber.
Hey Paul, I can’t thank you enough for your detailed video. Me and my dad are rebuilding an A-833 4 speed and we also have your book. We have the transmission pretty much finished except for the shift linkage. I took my Hurst shifter apart and cleaned and lubed it. Your video gave me the confidence to do it. Thanks!
well i am glad they changed that crazy design ! LOL I got a 65 Corvette M21 with the Hurst shifter and did a clean out the way you demonstrated ! Came out very satisfactory ,was surprised this M21 is in really great shape as the cleaned out shifter ! Thx Paul almost at 100K Subscribers !!! Lets Go Guys He should have a Million Great detail
I appreciate you and your time and your great videography. Some videos I watch I'm looking at the dude's head or I'm forty feet away from the thing they're working on for most of the video. It's pretty frustrating but I know it can't be easy. Or maybe it is. I've never tried to record myself swearing and breaking things in the garage. I guess my point is, I'm happy you do it so well. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I've disassembled and cleaned my comp plus shifter and tomorrow i'm going to tackle changing the handle receiver. I bought the offset one I need for my Camaro project. Also, I ordered your bushings and clips. Can't wait to jerk the auto out and start banging gears again after 30 yrs!!
Customer was going to purchase new hurst for his mopar. This does not have the adjustable stops, identical though. Thank you! Great video! Subscribed! It's great to find people like yourself with the RIGHT info, and willing to share!!
Thank you so much for this video! I was afraid for a long time to touch my shifter. You encouraged me and today I made it without any problem. Great tutorial and so good to follow.My 66 Satellite race car will shift now way better. Greetings from Munich/Germany
You are correct Paul.....Taking the little spring for reverse out is pain and can ruin your day. I also don't suggest doing it. I made the mistake once and it took me a couple hours to get it back in. By the way, I bought your book and rebuilt my Muncie. Also watched all your videos to understand the tranny. A transmission was something I was afraid to tear apart. Even being the engineer I am. Now I understand how it works. THANKS for making it seem so simple and fun to work on. Keep posting the videos. I look forward to learning something new from your experience!
That is a very kind offer Paul, however i am in England and the shipping cost would be a killer ! . I have a '54 Chevy pick-up which has sat at the back of my shop for 10 yrs. ! , now i am retired i 'm starting to build it as an old Skool gasser to frighten all the local kid's in their "hot Hatches ", thank's again, John
I went through clean ups and inspections on 2 Hurst shifters a few years ago. They cleaned up nice, very minimal wear. However, after watching your video they could have went a lot easier!😕 Thanks for sharing, very professional. Just subscribed after watching the T5 series rebuild on ETCG1 channel. Now I'm thinking about putting a T5 in a Falcon Ranchero I'm working on for myself.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm trying to do a four speed conversion on a limited budget (really!) and the used Hurst shifter I bought barely moves! This really helped take away my anxiety over taking the shifter apart to clean it up. Excellent video and thanks again!
I asked because i am in Daytona every Feb. [ Big NASCAR fan ! ], In "09 i was at Sebring with some English pal's , racing historic stuff, visited Okeechobee, which is not far from you and in '12 spent a night in Fort Pierce, just up the coast !
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, everything was under control until the parts got shuffled on me! You really did a good job explaining how these shifters work. I mostly got it back right except for those two thicker shims not being in the right places in the correct orientation.
Im gonna try to clean mine up thanks for this cant do it without, found a guywho says he will rechrome my handle if I wrap the body with electrical tape, a whole roll $150 kind of pricey but what isnt these days, $75 for plywood at HD per sheet CDX
Cool tool but the punches worked great for me and I learned the punch trick from your video. Doing the shifter handle insert swap without the tool in your other video was definitely a be-och but I did it and still have two eyes.
Paul, I already subbed a while back. Those home labyrinth stores do have a way of making you rack up big bills. I can't say enough how much I enjoy the channel I've watched several videos more than once. Thanks.
Hey Paul, A cool song you might enjoy GOJIRA LENFANT SAUVAGE, Explosive on the drums!!! well you are working on a M22 with a V-vate shifter. For a cool 69 pro street Stroke or small block eighty eight in the rear. Afr 220 heads Nasty cam 108 lobe center 6"rod 13:1 Ross pistons 😮
By the way. Shifters should have the same size roll pin. It's possible that a slighty larger pin was used because of a manufacturing error and they had to compensate. Watch my other videos for full rebuild.
This video RoCkS! Lots of great information to do a job that would otherwise cost some coin, to farm out. My question is about the grease: Hurst does not recommend the use of grease, as they say that it "attracts dirt, promoting excessive wear in the system". Personally, I cant see a way around not using the grease. Not using any grease would "promote excessive wear in the system" even faster.
+GearBoxVideo it shifts alot smoother now... But when goin from 1-2 gate to the 3-4 gate i still gotta wiggle it in.... I think i might take it apart again and hit the gates with the wire wheel....at least try that before i buy a new one At least im not afraid to take it apart anymore!! Lol
Great video Paul. Just helped me take mine apart and inspect. I do have maybe 1/32nd slop in the plunger when placing the 3-4 gate over it. How much slop is acceptable? Not sure I want to invest in a new shifter at this point. Seemed to work OK before I took it all out, but will purchase if needed. Thanks.
Your video was very instructional. My problem is coming out of reverse it also engages in a forward gear locking the linkage. Any idea where my problem may be?
Paul rules! If he ever opened up shop in my 'hood', he'd put 99% of the clowns that have the nerve to call themselves technicians or even mechanics. Now all I have to do is watch this video five or four more times so I get the full understanding of the CORRECT procedure. Thanks Paul.
+GearBoxVideo This 'How to' video post is very comprehensive, as you lay out ALL the necessary steps as well as 'how to' avoid the pitfalls. Soup to nuts. I always thought that the Hurst shifters were a non-serviceable unit. Until now. Unfortunately for me, when I installed my new AutoGear Z ratio munie 4 speed, I purchased a new shifter as I wanted to treat the entire transmission as an everything new approach. Now I have a spare. Your other videos were a huge help as to getting everything done right the first time. The so called hired help here (shops/garages) just do a butcher hack job and give the ol' 3 feet or 3 seconds warranty. So the information you offer here is a lifeline to all of the gear-heads to gain perspective. Thanks Paul.
Thank! Any idea on the original finish of the steel parts? Mine are rust and will have to blast them. Paint or powder coating them add to much thickness?
Paul I need to get the reveres bias in and out. Actually just in. I had to change the handle holder to put the correct one in to fit my 72 Nova console shifter. What is the best way? I have tried to compress the spring with stainless steel tie wire. Almost works but not quite. Is there a spring compressor for this job?
Having trouble getting reverse to work on my Comp Plus shifter Paul. I've got 1-4 gears but pulling to the left and forward doesn't find revers. I pined the shifter to adjust the rods correctly, but to no avail. The Top loader has been gone through installing a new second gear due to teeth chewed up. Any ideas.
Hi Paul. do you know why the reverse shim looks different for Oldsmobiles in 1970? Hurst sells the same rebuild kit for all of them, but the reverse shim is different. I assume it functions the same?
Wheel bearing grease is too thick. Lucus Red works great and is designed for sliding parts and is water resistant ilas is Driven EPG grease and Amalie blue (which is what I use and available at www.5speeds.com/cart.
Paul, i have a mount which is same as one in your video, the holes in the mount line up with the holes in the g/box tail housing , but, the shifter mechanism need's to be approx 3ins further out for the rod's to line up with the shift arm's ! , your box is a Muncie, mine is an early T10 --is this the problem?
+john allen Usually I stay near the Charing Cross station which pretty much allows me to go anywhere. If I'm back in the UK I'd pay you a visit ( time permitting )
Great tutorial! Going to take my vintage Hurst Comp Plus shifter apart this weekend and freshen it up. I have a 55 belair with a bench seat and a muncie 4 spd. You said you use kit 3733163. I see that Summit suggests 57-132941-1. Is there much of a difference? Thank you.
Paul, do you remember the Chrysler pistol grip style shifters, that you could pull the handle and upper arm out of the lower half, with a couple of feeler gauges? steve
I wish they were still around. The Comp Plus on my Roadrunner, had longer gates, than the stock ones, to make up for the long shift handle. It was about 6 inches from 1-3, and a foot from 1-2. Dropped in a stock short Comp Plus handle, about 8 inches long, 2 inches 1-3, 4 inches 1-2. Oh, watching you and Eric rebuilding a T5, right now. Great channel! steve
Great video I used one of your Muncie rebuild videos and book to do my 4 speed rebuild, your videos are always so detailed thanks for doing them. I need a new back plate and dust plate (they were missing) for my comp plus shifter I have. Do you know of anywhere to get these parts for them?
The First Plate that you removed with your threaded coupling and bolt. The plate that holds the 3rd gear stop bolt (I think). I can take a picture tonight and send to you. I also may need some other parts for it. Let me take a look and see what I need.
Most likely with 95,100 subscribers already will be difficult to keep track of comments nor questions but I will try anyways. My Hurst 4 speed shifter on a Muncie 21 is very solid and works fine but one thing, it is fairly easy to engage the reverse. When getting out of reverse it does pops out positively from it as is supposed too. I wonder if this is the normal behavior (going fairly easy into reverse gear) and I just need to be careful or may need a stronger tension spring for the detent? Of course I have your book on transmissions and I was able to service both of the Muncie 21s that I own on my converted from automatic Buick Regal 1978 and my 1971 Corvette. Both my Muncie have the 1&2, 3&4 shifting levers with the possibility of using the upper or lower positions I guess to shorten the shift throw and they are using the upper one. Is it advisable to move the rods to the short throw positions?
The bias spring for reverse could be worn. Older OEM Pontiac shifters had a round plunger which didnt have a snap to it . Also I have seen the main plunger wear in the spot the rev plunger engages it.
Great video! I'll be darned, I thought that there (might) be some nylon\plastic bushings in there somewhere. I have a new shifter and linkage kit that I bought for a 1970's Ford Toplaoder. I heated the shift rod in an effort to bend it, and thought that I may have partially melted some bushings because it shifts a little mushy now (for lack of a better word). After watching this I guess that's not my issue. Now I'm a little concerned that the transmission rebuild may not have been done correctly. Any ideas on how I might narrow this problem down? thanks in advance everyone.
When you heat the shifter you collapse the springs inside. Basically you ruin the springs and ruin how it shifts. You can order new springs from us at www.5speeds.com/cart
Hi there, I brought a Hurst shifter long time ago I Mount to my Camaro with T10 and did not get the transmission to reverse Eather I didn't get the shift pattern or the reverse is not working, can point anything to help, or how to check it to find the problem. Thanks in advance.
+Mudder Fukker I like tube amps. Just something I like to mess with on my spare time. The circuits are fairly simple. I don't even play guitar. However this guy does... th-cam.com/video/9Ly53xx4Fj0/w-d-xo.html
GearBoxVideo Oh yeah, he certainly does. Thanks for the great vids. I'm looking forward to getting your book. Started my first gearbox rebuild today, a Ford 4 speed Top loader. Although I didn't find 'exact' match to 'Ford Toploader' in your vids, I learned a *lot* from your vids on the T-5, T10, Syncros, enough for confidence to tear it open and start it. Got it all apart today in about 3 hours, gonna clean and put together tomorrow. Thanks again, great job on the vids.
My book goes in great depth into the top loader. The only advice I can give you is clean up the rails because they tend to get dinged up. When I build a top loader I trial fit all the rails and detents in the case by themselves to make sure everything is working properly. Watch the video it's pretty funny he's a real motor head and had a great time with him. Also another tip is to leave the counter gear dropped down that way you could sneak the input in with the front bearing on it.
GearBoxVideo Thanks for tips. Watching it now, he does sound a bit like the 'Spinal Tap' guys. By the 'rails', those are the smaller shafts that the forks ride on, correct? Getting the 3-4 fork/rail out held me up, I didn't realize there was another detent/interlock involving the reverse on the underside, was driving me nuts for about 30 minutes.
+Mudder Fukker The three rails are the rails the forks go in. There are interlocks and detents. Detents are backed by springs and interlocks are between the rails.
I had my Hurst OEM shifter rebuilt by Hurst in the early 80's and they gave me an extra upper bolt kit and in this pic I took shows the orientation of the nut, bolt, plate, nylon washer, and wave washer. Most of the time those shims will be beyond being reusable. my1970z28.com/COPO/images/shifter_mount_nut_bolt_1.JPG Arrows point to where the washers go. Hurst also would not give me the torque for that nut. They said it was confidential. I thought WTF?
Usually torque specs are pretty universal based on the thread size and bolt grade. See this chart. www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
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Very good explanation for a job I am getting ready to do, thanks. Back in 1975 when I was living in New Jersey, I removed the Hurst Competition Plus out of my 69 GTO and took it the Hurst factory in Warminster, PA. They had a window on the side of the building where a guy in a white smock took my shifter, held it over a trash can, knocked out the pins, and let everything fall in the can. In about two minutes he reassembled it with new parts and handed it back to me, free of charge. I don't believe they do that anymore but it convinced me to use their products ever since.
Bill Cousins They still offer a rebuilding service, but obviously you have to pay for it now.
@@GearBoxVideo and it takes about 6 weeks
Fascinating stuff, and finally, someone who can explain how these shifters work. That rotary cam setup at the end got a laugh out of everybody in the room, too.
Samniss Arandeen Thanks. That funny shifter at the end was actually designed by the same man who came up with the vertigate shifter concept used by Mr. Gasket and licensed to Hurst. Bill Bieber.
With this video at my side I just finished my hurst shifter. It was dismantled, cleaned, lubed, and put back together. Great instructions! Thank you!
I like this video a lot. Walks the line with just the right amount of info, very nicely presented. Also enjoyed the walk down memory lane!
Hey Paul,
I can’t thank you enough for your detailed video. Me and my dad are rebuilding an A-833
4 speed and we also have your book. We have the transmission pretty much finished except for the shift linkage. I took my Hurst shifter apart and cleaned and lubed it. Your video gave me the confidence to do it. Thanks!
well i am glad they changed that crazy design ! LOL I got a 65 Corvette M21 with the Hurst shifter and did a clean out the way you demonstrated ! Came out very satisfactory ,was surprised this M21 is in really great shape as the cleaned out shifter ! Thx Paul almost at 100K Subscribers !!! Lets Go Guys He should have a Million Great detail
Looks a lot like what we used to do, both the clean-up & the make-do tools. Many thanks for the tips and good memories.
I lost my reverse bias this morning, which makes it a real pain in the ass to find 1st and 2nd. I'm glad you made this video, cuz I'm gonna need it.
I appreciate you and your time and your great videography. Some videos I watch I'm looking at the dude's head or I'm forty feet away from the thing they're working on for most of the video. It's pretty frustrating but I know it can't be easy. Or maybe it is. I've never tried to record myself swearing and breaking things in the garage. I guess my point is, I'm happy you do it so well. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I've disassembled and cleaned my comp plus shifter and tomorrow i'm going to tackle changing the handle receiver. I bought the offset one I need for my Camaro project. Also, I ordered your bushings and clips. Can't wait to jerk the auto out and start banging gears again after 30 yrs!!
Customer was going to purchase new hurst for his mopar. This does not have the adjustable stops, identical though. Thank you! Great video! Subscribed! It's great to find people like yourself with the RIGHT info, and willing to share!!
Thank you so much for this video! I was afraid for a long time to touch my shifter. You encouraged me and today I made it without any problem. Great tutorial and so good to follow.My 66 Satellite race car will shift now way better. Greetings from Munich/Germany
+paulinski2007 Thank you for watching.
You are correct Paul.....Taking the little spring for reverse out is pain and can ruin your day. I also don't suggest doing it. I made the mistake once and it took me a couple hours to get it back in.
By the way, I bought your book and rebuilt my Muncie. Also watched all your videos to understand the tranny.
A transmission was something I was afraid to tear apart. Even being the engineer I am. Now I understand how it works.
THANKS for making it seem so simple and fun to work on.
Keep posting the videos. I look forward to learning something new from your experience!
Thanks it's stories like this that make me want to make more videos and write books
That is a very kind offer Paul, however i am in England and the shipping cost would be a killer ! . I have a '54 Chevy pick-up which has sat at the back of my shop for 10 yrs. ! , now i am retired i 'm starting to build it as an old Skool gasser to frighten all the local kid's in their "hot Hatches ", thank's again, John
+john allen I go to england often. Drop me a line as where your at.
This video combines two of my favorite things, four speeds and Rrrrrrrrrrammstein!
Loved the peak at that old shifter. I am sure I have never seen that one before.
I went through clean ups and inspections on 2 Hurst shifters a few years ago. They cleaned up nice, very minimal wear. However, after watching your video they could have went a lot easier!😕 Thanks for sharing, very professional. Just subscribed after watching the T5 series rebuild on ETCG1 channel. Now I'm thinking about putting a T5 in a Falcon Ranchero I'm working on for myself.
Great video. In my '67 GM i got a Hurst shiftier working a Richmond Super T10
I need to get some of your hardened steel bushing put on it.
EMFT Thanks for watching. They can be ordered from my website at www.5speeds.com/cart
Thank you so much for this video! I'm trying to do a four speed conversion on a limited budget (really!) and the used Hurst shifter I bought barely moves! This really helped take away my anxiety over taking the shifter apart to clean it up. Excellent video and thanks again!
L Waddle Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
I asked because i am in Daytona every Feb. [ Big NASCAR fan ! ], In "09 i was at Sebring with some English pal's , racing historic stuff, visited Okeechobee, which is not far from you and in '12 spent a night in Fort Pierce, just up the coast !
+john allen I'm usually at Daytona as well.
You're the best man...Im gonna take my shifter apart and clean it, I might need some of your bushings when I bolt it back on the trans.
Paul I used your video to take my Hurst apart and clean it. I’m new to 4 speeds. Very nice video. Thanks for the help.
Thanks!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, everything was under control until the parts got shuffled on me! You really did a good job explaining how these shifters work. I mostly got it back right except for those two thicker shims not being in the right places in the correct orientation.
Grateful for his video. From the South of Argentina, thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hey Paul, hope you are doing well.
I am looking forward!! To how to adjust the 4 speed V-gate shifter for the 1/4 mile😊
Im gonna try to clean mine up thanks for this cant do it without, found a guywho says he will rechrome my handle if I wrap the body with electrical tape, a whole roll $150 kind of pricey but what isnt these days, $75 for plywood at HD per sheet CDX
Cool tool but the punches worked great for me and I learned the punch trick from your video. Doing the shifter handle insert swap without the tool in your other video was definitely a be-och but I did it and still have two eyes.
Paul,
I already subbed a while back.
Those home labyrinth stores do have a way of making you rack up big bills. I can't say enough how much I enjoy the channel I've watched several videos more than once. Thanks.
Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina, the videos explained very well, I have a 4th A833 Dodge overdrive box and a huster selector Thank you!
Thanks for sharing
i just found you on youtube and i was mesmerized. your a natural. thanks paul !! great great information..
Thanks for watching
thank you sir for this very interesting and informative how-to video
I watched this whole thing even though I've never had a Hurst shifter for a manual transmission.
Great video and thanks for sharing this info. Shifter works like a dream now.
Hi Paul, I have a old version with a spring with hooks. is there a video on how to install that spring? thanks. great Video!!!
The springs hooks to the body and carrier
Hey Paul, A cool song you might enjoy GOJIRA LENFANT SAUVAGE, Explosive on the drums!!! well you are working on a M22 with a V-vate shifter. For a cool 69 pro street Stroke or small block eighty eight in the rear. Afr 220 heads
Nasty cam 108 lobe center
6"rod 13:1 Ross pistons 😮
Many thank's Paul ! , i only have the shifter and the T10 box, need to locate the mount !
+john allen What kind of car? I may have a mount.
Yes I do like the Hurst shifter tutorials thanx!!!
be good to see you Paul, i'll probably have a load more question's for you !
By the way. Shifters should have the same size roll pin. It's possible that a slighty larger pin was used because of a manufacturing error and they had to compensate. Watch my other videos for full rebuild.
This video RoCkS! Lots of great information to do a job that would otherwise cost some coin, to farm out. My question is about the grease: Hurst does not recommend the use of grease, as they say that it "attracts dirt, promoting excessive wear in the system". Personally, I cant see a way around not using the grease. Not using any grease would "promote excessive wear in the system" even faster.
I always use grease. The shifter when purchased new has grease. I use Driven EPG grease. Another is the Lucas High tack grease
Thanx man!! Killer video.... Took my mopar shifter apart and it really wasnt that bad.... Did everything how u did, goin for a test run in a few min!!
Thanks. Hope ot worked out.
+GearBoxVideo it shifts alot smoother now... But when goin from 1-2 gate to the 3-4 gate i still gotta wiggle it in.... I think i might take it apart again and hit the gates with the wire wheel....at least try that before i buy a new one
At least im not afraid to take it apart anymore!! Lol
Love these videos thanks Paul
Great video Paul. Just helped me take mine apart and inspect. I do have maybe 1/32nd slop in the plunger when placing the 3-4 gate over it. How much slop is acceptable? Not sure I want to invest in a new shifter at this point. Seemed to work OK before I took it all out, but will purchase if needed. Thanks.
If it hasn't presented an issue for you than leave it alone.
As always, great video. Thanks for making an expert out of a novist.
Andy Bennett Thanks, I appreciate your comment.
Your video was very instructional. My problem is coming out of reverse it also engages in a forward gear locking the linkage. Any idea where my problem may be?
Type of transmission, make, model, car and shifter would be helpful
That was extremely useful ! , this is probably a dumb question but what stops the pivot shaft from falling out ?
+john allen There is a bolt with a washer that fastens the shifter body to the mount through the hole of the pivot.
Very informative! Thanks One question. Would it be wise to put some grease on the top pin that slides through the assembly? Nice vid. Thanks
You could. But when you install it, most would get pushed off the pin.
Paul rules! If he ever opened up shop in my 'hood', he'd put 99% of the clowns that have the nerve to call themselves technicians or even mechanics. Now all I have to do is watch this video five or four more times so I get the full understanding of the CORRECT procedure. Thanks Paul.
Thanks.. You made my day.
+GearBoxVideo This 'How to' video post is very comprehensive, as you lay out ALL the necessary steps as well as 'how to' avoid the pitfalls. Soup to nuts. I always thought that the Hurst shifters were a non-serviceable unit. Until now. Unfortunately for me, when I installed my new AutoGear Z ratio munie 4 speed, I purchased a new shifter as I wanted to treat the entire transmission as an everything new approach. Now I have a spare. Your other videos were a huge help as to getting everything done right the first time. The so called hired help here (shops/garages) just do a butcher hack job and give the ol' 3 feet or 3 seconds warranty. So the information you offer here is a lifeline to all of the gear-heads to gain perspective. Thanks Paul.
+Viking Mike Anytime.
Cool Vid! I love those old weird shifters also.
Ryan Madden I'm going to add weird shifters to the descriptions.
Thank! Any idea on the original finish of the steel parts? Mine are rust and will have to blast them. Paint or powder coating them add to much thickness?
I don't paint the internals. Full restoration would get plating. Earlier units were zinc plated, newer seem to be black oxide
2 gallons of Mineral
spirts for $20 ! those are the good ole days. lol. Great video.
Right!!
Can I change my 55/57 Chevy hurst leaver that’s welded not bolts to the later angled version I wanna center the shifter for a RHD application??
Yes you can. Look at my latest video on shifters. I show you how to take it apart and change the reviewer mechanism. I also stock the shifter parts
Paul I need to get the reveres bias in and out. Actually just in. I had to change the handle holder to put the correct one in to fit my 72 Nova console shifter. What is the best way? I have tried to compress the spring with stainless steel tie wire. Almost works but not quite. Is there a spring compressor for this job?
Us a C-clamp and slide it into position from the clamp
Having trouble getting reverse to work on my Comp Plus shifter Paul. I've got 1-4 gears but pulling to the left and forward doesn't find revers. I pined the shifter to adjust the rods correctly, but to no avail. The Top loader has been gone through installing a new second gear due to teeth chewed up. Any ideas.
Some linkages require a spacer between the shifter body and mount. Did you simply try and put it in reverse from underneath or try left and rearward?
Hi Paul. do you know why the reverse shim looks different for Oldsmobiles in 1970? Hurst sells the same rebuild kit for all of them, but the reverse shim is different. I assume it functions the same?
Functions the same just different design processes
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks very much! Your videos are awesome.
Loved the sequential shifter!! Great video!
+Robert Kohut Thank you
What kind of grease should i use to re-assemble ? Would wheel bearing grease be sufficient ?
Wheel bearing grease is too thick. Lucus Red works great and is designed for sliding parts and is water resistant ilas is Driven EPG grease and Amalie blue (which is what I use and available at www.5speeds.com/cart.
Paul, i have a mount which is same as one in your video, the holes in the mount line up with the holes in the g/box tail housing , but, the shifter mechanism need's to be approx 3ins further out for the rod's to line up with the shift arm's ! , your box is a Muncie, mine is an early T10 --is this the problem?
+john allen what make and model car?
Hi Paul , i am in Buckinghamshire, about 40 mins north of London
+john allen Usually I stay near the Charing Cross station which pretty much allows me to go anywhere. If I'm back in the UK I'd pay you a visit ( time permitting )
Great tutorial! Going to take my vintage Hurst Comp Plus shifter apart this weekend and freshen it up. I have a 55 belair with a bench seat and a muncie 4 spd. You said you use kit 3733163. I see that Summit suggests 57-132941-1. Is there much of a difference? Thank you.
I dont know what the summit number is since it is not a Hurst # According to Hurst the 373-3163 is correct for the stud type muncie
Thank you. You're videos are very helpful. Very well done.
The next time you rebuild one, could you make a video removing the reverse bias?
That video is in the works and being edited
Don't know if you still doing this shit but loved your video I like the way you put stuff together very well done
Still doing it.... Every day
Paul, do you remember the Chrysler
pistol grip style shifters, that you could
pull the handle and upper arm out of
the lower half, with a couple of feeler
gauges?
steve
Yes, I do. In fact most OEM shifters came like that
I wish they were still around.
The Comp Plus on my Roadrunner, had
longer gates, than the stock ones, to
make up for the long shift handle. It
was about 6 inches from 1-3, and a
foot from 1-2. Dropped in a stock short
Comp Plus handle, about 8 inches long,
2 inches 1-3, 4 inches 1-2.
Oh, watching you and Eric rebuilding a T5,
right now. Great channel!
steve
Great video I used one of your Muncie rebuild videos and book to do my 4 speed rebuild, your videos are always so detailed thanks for doing them.
I need a new back plate and dust plate (they were missing) for my comp plus shifter I have. Do you know of anywhere to get these parts for them?
***** what do you mean by back plate? What is the application? I have a fair amount of new parts
The First Plate that you removed with your threaded coupling and bolt. The plate that holds the 3rd gear stop bolt (I think). I can take a picture tonight and send to you. I also may need some other parts for it. Let me take a look and see what I need.
Email to support@5speeds.com
Most likely with 95,100 subscribers already will be difficult to keep track of comments nor questions but I will try anyways. My Hurst 4 speed shifter on a Muncie 21 is very solid and works fine but one thing, it is fairly easy to engage the reverse. When getting out of reverse it does pops out positively from it as is supposed too. I wonder if this is the normal behavior (going fairly easy into reverse gear) and I just need to be careful or may need a stronger tension spring for the detent? Of course I have your book on transmissions and I was able to service both of the Muncie 21s that I own on my converted from automatic Buick Regal 1978 and my 1971 Corvette. Both my Muncie have the 1&2, 3&4 shifting levers with the possibility of using the upper or lower positions I guess to shorten the shift throw and they are using the upper one. Is it advisable to move the rods to the short throw positions?
The bias spring for reverse could be worn. Older OEM Pontiac shifters had a round plunger which didnt have a snap to it . Also I have seen the main plunger wear in the spot the rev plunger engages it.
Alway's a warm welcome for our cousins across the " pond " !, where are you based Paul ?
+john allen South Florida, east coast in a town called Tequesta
Hey man... Your a really cool dude! I like this alot!
Thank you.
Nice video, Thank you!
Absolutely great video. Thank you!
Thank you
Great video! I'll be darned, I thought that there (might) be some nylon\plastic bushings in there somewhere. I have a new shifter and linkage kit that I bought for a 1970's Ford Toplaoder. I heated the shift rod in an effort to bend it, and thought that I may have partially melted some bushings because it shifts a little mushy now (for lack of a better word). After watching this I guess that's not my issue. Now I'm a little concerned that the transmission rebuild may not have been done correctly. Any ideas on how I might narrow this problem down? thanks in advance everyone.
When you heat the shifter you collapse the springs inside. Basically you ruin the springs and ruin how it shifts. You can order new springs from us at www.5speeds.com/cart
@@GearBoxVideo Wow, thx a ton! I've been driving it like it is for a couple of years now. I'll order that right now. regards, David Jones in NM
Awesome video thanks for doing this.
appreciate you watching
PS Paul what type of blue assembly lube do you use? Thanks
This stuff at this link. www.5speeds.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_78&product_id=67
In Canada a thing of mineral spirits is almost $20 lol
Hi there,
I brought a Hurst shifter long time ago I Mount to my Camaro with T10 and did not get the transmission to reverse Eather I didn't get the shift pattern or the reverse is not working, can point anything to help, or how to check it to find the problem.
Thanks in advance.
Without knowing what exact components you have I won't be much help. Best to send pictures to my email support@5speeds.com
@@GearBoxVideo thanks for replying, I send the pictures through the email.
Kind regards
Ahmad
Do you rebuild shifter for people
yes I do... see www.shifterfix.com
thanks, you always do a good job.
Thank You
Hi can I use Heim joint and rods for shift rods instead of the rods that the transmission come with.
@2:28 Spotted a Fender head and a nice woodgrain head, working on tube amps also?
+Mudder Fukker I like tube amps. Just something I like to mess with on my spare time. The circuits are fairly simple. I don't even play guitar. However this guy does... th-cam.com/video/9Ly53xx4Fj0/w-d-xo.html
GearBoxVideo Oh yeah, he certainly does. Thanks for the great vids. I'm looking forward to getting your book. Started my first gearbox rebuild today, a Ford 4 speed Top loader. Although I didn't find 'exact' match to 'Ford Toploader' in your vids, I learned a *lot* from your vids on the T-5, T10, Syncros, enough for confidence to tear it open and start it. Got it all apart today in about 3 hours, gonna clean and put together tomorrow. Thanks again, great job on the vids.
My book goes in great depth into the top loader. The only advice I can give you is clean up the rails because they tend to get dinged up. When I build a top loader I trial fit all the rails and detents in the case by themselves to make sure everything is working properly. Watch the video it's pretty funny he's a real motor head and had a great time with him. Also another tip is to leave the counter gear dropped down that way you could sneak the input in with the front bearing on it.
GearBoxVideo Thanks for tips. Watching it now, he does sound a bit like the 'Spinal Tap' guys.
By the 'rails', those are the smaller shafts that the forks ride on, correct? Getting the 3-4 fork/rail out held me up, I didn't realize there was another detent/interlock involving the reverse on the underside, was driving me nuts for about 30 minutes.
+Mudder Fukker The three rails are the rails the forks go in. There are interlocks and detents. Detents are backed by springs and interlocks are between the rails.
Nice sequential shifter! :))
Excellent.
I called you today. I think this is the vid you told me about. Do you sell linkage arms?
I sell everything
After you cleaned the shifter housing where the reverse bias spring goes....did you grease anything?
@@bobc.5698 of course!
RE borrowed pot from kitchen - yeah that'll make for some spicy meatballs.
I had my Hurst OEM shifter rebuilt by Hurst in the early 80's and they gave me an extra upper bolt kit and in this pic I took shows the orientation of the nut, bolt, plate, nylon washer, and wave washer. Most of the time those shims will be beyond being reusable. my1970z28.com/COPO/images/shifter_mount_nut_bolt_1.JPG Arrows point to where the washers go. Hurst also would not give me the torque for that nut. They said it was confidential. I thought WTF?
Usually torque specs are pretty universal based on the thread size and bolt grade. See this chart. www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
Thanks Paul. Great videos you put up too.
I rebuilt my comp plus shifter exactly as Paul . WORKS GREAT THANKS -- 57 3100
Woulderful
Awesome video thanks for doing this.
thank you
Awesome video thanks for doing this.