Man, I replace my main jets and cleaned everything and polished my slides- I have two shims under my needles per dynatek and HMF standards, put everything on, now it just cranks without starting. I only took off the carbs I can see the the fuel in the in-line fuel filter
ok ill try my best to help. lets start from the beginning. before taking the carbs out to rejet, everything ran fine? then you got a pipe, tuner, and jets. put everything on and now it doesnt fire?
@@Simpsons.R.Syes correct it took a minute to start/ turn over and acting weak when covering the snorkel (to kill it) but the boots were split. I replaced the boots under the carbs, the upper stack boots were (good), plugged everything back in- to make sure slides were working as should- not pinched or ripped. I was told on the 650i and 750 there is a prime setting on the fuel tank under the 4wd box (under seat). Apparently everything taken apart for awhile dried up- so I’m supposed to prime it on startup. (Something I overlooked hopefully).
so a lot of the newer bikes/atvs have a petcock that has a prime and on. the on runs off vacuum once the engine is running.... the prime is like a normal ON setting. so itll constantly let fuel pass. if the carbs were removed they will definitely need primed. luckily thats a very easy thing to switch haha
Hey man I got a brute force 650 08 I’ve clean carb a few time but it been like a year but every time I’ve clean it and put new jet in it run like it’s got a cam in it drive good but idle sucks it’ll shut off if you let it sit there the choke doesn’t shut off the fourwheeler like the one you did very hard to start I’ve done the valve like less the 6 months ago but when it warm up out side I can pull start but someone got to barely hold the throttle then it will start and if you turn the chock off it pop loud in carburetor and sound like it got a cam at the exhaust i don’t know if I got wrong jets or what going on?
definitely got an issue with it haha. if the valves are all in spec, i would look back into the carbs. are you using factory jets? or jets off ebay/amazon?
so if it's all stock(intake/exhaust).I'd definitely start back with the stock jetting (main-152 front 158 rear.. 38 pilot) and get a fresh set of spark plugs and read them once you've done that.
I have rebuilt CV carbs for years. You should kit them. At least new needle and seats and bowl gaskets. Those carbs, at least the rear one has been flooding. Sounds good, maybe the needles will hold for awhile.
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Man, I replace my main jets and cleaned everything and polished my slides- I have two shims under my needles per dynatek and HMF standards, put everything on, now it just cranks without starting. I only took off the carbs I can see the the fuel in the in-line fuel filter
ok ill try my best to help. lets start from the beginning. before taking the carbs out to rejet, everything ran fine? then you got a pipe, tuner, and jets. put everything on and now it doesnt fire?
@@Simpsons.R.Syes correct it took a minute to start/ turn over and acting weak when covering the snorkel (to kill it) but the boots were split. I replaced the boots under the carbs, the upper stack boots were (good), plugged everything back in- to make sure slides were working as should- not pinched or ripped.
I was told on the 650i and 750 there is a prime setting on the fuel tank under the 4wd box (under seat). Apparently everything taken apart for awhile dried up- so I’m supposed to prime it on startup. (Something I overlooked hopefully).
so a lot of the newer bikes/atvs have a petcock that has a prime and on. the on runs off vacuum once the engine is running.... the prime is like a normal ON setting. so itll constantly let fuel pass. if the carbs were removed they will definitely need primed. luckily thats a very easy thing to switch haha
Tell me you adjusted the valve lash with all that out of the way? lol. doing one next week, was wondering a good way to get those out, ty bud.
😂😂 only way to do them comfortably is to remove it all. Once you've done it a couple times it's really easy.
Hey man I got a brute force 650 08 I’ve clean carb a few time but it been like a year but every time I’ve clean it and put new jet in it run like it’s got a cam in it drive good but idle sucks it’ll shut off if you let it sit there the choke doesn’t shut off the fourwheeler like the one you did very hard to start I’ve done the valve like less the 6 months ago but when it warm up out side I can pull start but someone got to barely hold the throttle then it will start and if you turn the chock off it pop loud in carburetor and sound like it got a cam at the exhaust i don’t know if I got wrong jets or what going on?
definitely got an issue with it haha. if the valves are all in spec, i would look back into the carbs. are you using factory jets? or jets off ebay/amazon?
Hey man! I have a 2005 750. Stock pipe. Dynatek ecu. Stock main jets but 40 pilots. Runs very rich! Should I go to a 38 pilot?
so if it's all stock(intake/exhaust).I'd definitely start back with the stock jetting (main-152 front 158 rear.. 38 pilot) and get a fresh set of spark plugs and read them once you've done that.
@@Simpsons.R.S thank you!
no problem. let me know how it works out for you.... it also depends on where you live, in relation to sea level. that can cause your tuning to be off
What was the cause of the oil all over the engine?
it had some blow by and the line from the crankcase to the air box wasnt on 😂
@@Simpsons.R.S My KVF engine looks like that. I'll check it out. Thanks, bud.
I have rebuilt CV carbs for years. You should kit them. At least new needle and seats and bowl gaskets. Those carbs, at least the rear one has been flooding. Sounds good, maybe the needles will hold for awhile.