There are a lot of pros who watch this channel so I realize this may be very basic to you. But there are a lot of DIY and entry level people who watch as well. For that reason I have been trying to cover the basics lately and get all of these questions answered! Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any question!
Ive use easy patch and painters putty, which is like a spackel, dries quick, im sure we all have a go to product once we know it works like a champ. Great videos!
I appreciate that you provide information like this so that DIYers like me, can tackle minor repairs. Not everyone has money to hire a professional and a little knowledge goes a long way. I love your channel. Thank you for all that you share! ♡
I'm a 70 year old widow who is trying to learn all kinds of home improvement info so I can do needed maintenance myself, as much as possible. You did a great job of explaining the product and demonstrating how to use it. Now, once the tub of it gets here from Amazon, I have nail holes to fill! Thank you!!
I can't tell you how rad these videos actually are. If you're a pro watching, I'm sure it's basic and even intuitive. But if you are learning, and this work isn't your primary job, these are worth as much as gold. Thank you brother, the way you teach these skills is amazing.
I use the drydex and always leave excess and sand it off later. It never even occurred to me to wipe it off while wet. This video has increased my earning potential doing base by no less than 10-15% and didn't cost me a penny. Now that's a deal. Thanks Richard.
My husband and I are building a new home. The concrete, framing, siding, and roof we hired out, all the rest we are doing. So, as a 63 yo DIYer I appreciate the professional expertise and knowledge you provide on your channel. Thanks for sharing your favorite materials and tips. Keep those videos coming, I'll be watching! KUDOS! from the building site in Omaha AR.
Wow. this is the best video I've ever seen for filling small nail holes. I've been filling nail holes every time I move and I never do a really good job so, as soon as I watched this video I tried this technique and the method worked so well I made nail holes in a scrap piece of wood to practice on. It's almost impossible to believe how simple and effective this method is for filling nail holes. Sanding with your bare finger really works, it's almost like magic. Thanks a million. I've already told a friend about this video.
I gave my 11yr old daughter drydex in the tube to fill holes. She said she wanted to help. Now she spots nail holes wherever we are from across the room. Lol
I like the drydex as well. I’ve found that if I do need to sand it once it’s dry, a damp rag works better than sandpaper. It’s too “rubbery” to sand well, but a damp rag smooths it out perfectly.
I'm a DIY guy. You are a great teacher. You take your time explaining things. I know time is hard to come by. I wanted to say Thanks!! I have learned a lot by watching your video.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. I am a very experienced diy’er with over 40 years of experience and still love learning about new products and ways of doing things differently. Your videos always provide me with other ways of looking at the issues we all deal with and a fresh perspective. I cannot thank you enough for producing such informative content. Cheers from Canada. 🥰
Old days we always used Dap 33 glazing compound. Always kept a ball of it in your shirt pocket. Now I use Patch-n-paint. Even if the tub dries out you can add water and mix it up with a putty knife and it's good to go again.
I did this last weekend after installing baseboards for the first time in one of the kids rooms. I used a putty knife and it was so fast and easy. I went back with a sanding block but it wasn’t needed. Thank you so much for the tip!
Nailed it on the application. I'm not a trim guy but I've been painting cars for over 10 years. I've seen guys putty rock chips on cars the same way and it ends up making more work and causing more issues later. Tight clean skim coats are all that's needed. Same principle.
Finally the video I was waiting for. Such a mundane topic but so important in the process. A lot of great follow up comments on the subject too. Thanks!
I am a professional painter and I've been using this stuff or stuff like it for years. It's the best way to fill nail holes and it doesn't require primer and it wont "flash" when painted.
I usually do hvac and electrical but recently have had a job to build a couple of book shelves. I used that pink stuff and was amazed by it! I enjoyed working on the shelves. Ima get some more finish work!
Big tip with the drydex: BEWARE OF FLASHING!! Especially if using higher sheen paints. Must either prime or do a couple under layers of paint before finishing coat
Thank you for this video. I just asked this on your last video about caulking and got a few answers but was pleasantly surprised to see you put out a video addressing this exact question. You do excellent work and I appreciate you passing your knowledge and tips on. Thanks again!
Excellent products. Can I throw in two other "greats" I find myself going back to over & over? One is lightweight Fast-n-Final (this stuff is so light you'll think you're buying air!) - it's great because it dries fast & really light so that you can use it on a punch list day on your way out the door and maybe not even have to paint over it. The second is Ready Patch. This stuff is AWESOME. Interior or exterior. An amazing filler that really stands up.
Quick tip if you haven’t figured it out two years down the road. Buy the tubes of that pink dap. It doesn’t get crusty inside and you just squeeze out a perfect amount for a nail hole on your finger. So fast, handy, and easy. Love the videos. Thanks for this product idea two years ago.
I like your method. It is simple and basic. I have used the pink product for some time and I find that if you discover you have inadvertently left a small amount of excess filler after it dries, a damp terry cloth rag will easily and quickly take it off and no sanding is required. Great channel. I have been watching for a while and especially like your technique for gluing mitered corners. I am going to look for the name of the glue you used now. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Richard- we just went through this exact process with some custom shiplap- a lot of high end painter threads recommend MH Ready Patch, yet I like your products- You also might note if it's important to prime patched nail heads before finish coating as I've heard stories of bleeding due to certain patching compounds whether alcohol based or otherwise
Jon Dunn i use all three, ready patch/drydex/plastic wood (just started using plastic) a flex version of drydex. They all have slightly diff applications. Though I love having an assortment of versatile fillers. “Level5” compound/painters have a crazy assortment of diff spackles!? Why shouldn’t I? 😃 We did a huge kitchen ceiling (maybe around 30’ x 15’) w/ MDF panels. (Using something around 18” x 3/4” x 12’ mdf w/ 3/4” gap between each panel...Took us well over a week from start to finish) we sanded & patched every butt joint with ready patch! Works great for those larger applications where u buy in a gallon & put it on w/ a 6”knife. We don’t paint usually but I still like to fill any obnoxious or excessive nail holes with drydex & just in general set up my fellow contractors w/ an easier job! There is only 1 more guy after in the “finish” trade. Then I will pull out the flex spackle (lighter, & has a little flex to it) if the wood is gunna be somewhere I predict extra movement (maybe a casing miter around a window) I’ve witnessed many painters using plastic wood that’s why I bought it recently & ALL have a gallon of ready patch on hand. Last would be bondo & that’s the big guns! But your not patching nail holes with that lol she’s for the extra big holes/gaps/splices! Polyester based chemical product, very hard no shrinking nearly unbreakable (of course u can break anything) hardest filler product I’ve experienced with many applications! Smells nasty...
Thanks for this great information. Not redundant for us new DIYers. I am applying bead board panels and used silicone caulk to fill the nail holes, and after drying, just spent a lot of time scraping it off since it wouldn't sand successfully. I am on my way to the store to buy the Drydex.. Your video was helpful.
I just figured this out this morning, so glad to see you are sharing with other DIY folks. A rabbit chewed up the front of my daughter's drawer, and I've been nervous about doing this, afraid I'd do it wrong. I started last night and used a putty knife, but this morning saw there were still several holes. I decided to use my finger and it was perfect! Wasn't even sure if this was the "right" way, so again I say thank you!
Great video and very simplistic.I know even the most basic job can cause addition work if not done correctly. I like that you reach a broad spectrum of people. Keep up the good work Bro'.
My favorite product on all my trim. Personally I use a damp rag just as its turning paler pink and it takes off the excess WITHOUT removing your fill PLUS it wont flash. If you leave ANY excess without wiping or sanding and then paint, it will definitely flash even with a paint conditioner like Flood
@@josephd2059 I have personally used this in many ways. For example. Bondo is another product in my tool arsenal but there are certain situations where I really would rather not use Bondo. So I have used this product when filling smaller cracks and voids up to 1/8" to 3/16". I would fill, allow drytime, and fill again. One situation I use the drydex for a lot is when I'm doing touch up work or adding additional trim to an existing door frame/jamb and it's quite obvious that at some point during the doors usage; paint had chipped and/or peeled and was painted over several times. Rather than removing, stripping, sanding and refinishing; I would use the drydex with a 3-4" putty knife (depending on size of chip/peeling/blemish) and fill the chip to level out the surface, then lightly sand, re-paint, and you're golden. You've resurfaced a crappy looking spot and leveled years of paint over. It's VERY versatile product due to its lack of shrink and pliable texture
Great video you really simplified how quick and easy this task is. I’m currently doing baseboard and door casing in the bedrooms and there will be many nail holes to cover. Thanks
My tip is wipe the excess with a plastic or Bondo (metal car filler) flexible spreader. Smother than your finger and won't leave a dimple that your finger sometimes does. and its faster because you don't have to wipe your finger as often and easier on your fingers.
I mix Elmers Interior Carpenters putty 50/50 with Sherman Williams lightweight spackle. Always make a plastic little "ghost" bag and poke a hole in it like a cake decorator so your tray doesn't dry out. Thanks for the content Richard.
@@the_family_man_clan3378 the putty has a little too thick of a consistency in my experience especially if you get Sherwin-Williams version of the Elmer's Carpenter putty. also the putty alone is very difficult to hand sand. I could probably use putty alone at this point I have a DTS 400 sander I hook up to a vacuum which I highly recommend if you can justify the purchase. I still prefer the consistency of the 50/50 mixture and how it looks when it is finish sanded. I always do a second coat with Bondo glazing putty that is red so you can see where it is and not miss it when sanding
38 yr.paint contractor. I use Crawford painters putty. Doesn't need priming like spackle or 2cts of finish. Spackle will flash if it doesn't have 2cts.on top. Wit b that said another of people don't use it correctly.. must press into hole well and knock down with sanding sponge
Thanks for making this video that answers my question on screw holes as well I seen other videos but they just cover the hole and not fill it in and I would prefer to fill it in
Hi over here in the uk a trick I learnt when working in sensitive places in hospitals where larger areas were needing filler, we used a Damp cellulose decorating sponge to wipe excess of so as not to get any dust in the wards or sensitive rooms, Our nail hole filler was Red Devil , used to use polyfilla made by Polycell , though they changed formula , especially the exterior type. Now needs an alkaline primer
Thank you ! I tried many products including Dap Alex flex which is great to fill space between trims and walls but not for hiding nail holes, lucky for me I already have dap dry dex :)
My wife, who's never done woodwork, will watch your videos for hours LOL. Thanks for all the great tips. I love how you bring it down to my level & don't assume I know the little stuff. For example spending time showing me exactly how to line up a measuring mark, or explain exactly what "setting a corner" means. Question: Another TH-cam video said to use DAP Painter's Putty, and not spackle as it requires sanding. Do you think I'd see any difference between the DAP Spackle you recommend vs. DAP Painter's Putty? I like the sound of not painting later, but I'd really like to not see even a trace of nail holes, even if it's just a texture difference. I pre-paint my trim then touchup later, in case that matters.
Mine concaved and can still see the nail holes. I just started on trim in my house, never done it before which brought me to your channel. Thank you got me excited to do it and you definitely make it look easy which it is not.
I force the Drydex into the hole and give it a wipe with finger. Then I put a spot more on making a little "volcano" pushing right over the hole and lifting straight up. When dry sand flush.
You need to follow up with possible sanding and then prime and paint the nail holes. Also when to caulk trim to the wall. And the difference when you do nail holes in paint grade versus stain grade. Thanks for your videos, pal!
Thanks for the nail hole filling tips. I’ve been using Dap Simple Seal silicone in my projects. I haven’t had any shrinkage issues yet, but I’ll take your word that silicone fillers eventually shrink.
This was awesome. Thank you!! I am not sure if you mentioned this but I just painted my trim white, installed it, and now am looking to filled the nail holes so this is perfect timing. After I fill the nail holes, do I go over this spots with a little white paint again? Thanks again for the help!!
Great information and I had actually already bought some of that sparkling. At sparkling. I was so relieved when I saw it and had to go to the store I already had it but it's only a small container so I might still have to go to the store thank you
Drydex spackle and CA glue for the win on my remodel! I even used spackle for baseboard to wall gaps and not caulking. Took longer of course but results in a nice clean corner for paint transition between wall and base.
I like to use spackle too. One time, no shrink, no sand. Dap33 window glaze works really good too. Just make sure it's cured before you paint so it doesn't bleed...
QUESTION: Which finger on which hand shall we use? (On a serious note, I appreciate knowing the pink stuff works. I've used caulking before, and you're right, I can now see all the holes.) I always love your videos. Thank you!
I used the pink on a few inside miters...not too bad a joint, but just enough to catch the eye. (Came with the house). Anyway, I have a small assortment of artist's spatulas that I used to clean and smooth out the joints after applying the filler. I'd recommend having a couple in your mixed bag of tricks. You can find them at most craft and hobby stores.
I've been away from the contractor field for over 15 years. I used DAP oil base filler that works great. For basic nail hole. I would make a prune size ball and press firmly into the nail hole and swipe in one direction and after swipe in the opposite direction. Having the same results as yours with no need to sand and no shrinkage.anything bigger I would use late filler, like your product. Have you ever use this product and your opinion. Thanks. George
8:10 I was wondering about whether you do a quick touch sanding with a sponge or flat sander on flat trim after the Drydex dries. It just seems like SOME residue would be left behind with just the finger technique, like you typically see when an amateur tries to "spackle" a small nail hole in a wall and leaves a mess because they don't sand after it dries. This seems especially so, that on trim, which is going to have some degree of gloss to the paint, is going to clearly show off any imperfections. Otherwise, I've always used Dap glazing compound and even it seems to shrink just a little over time, enough to leave a small dimple. So I decided to search out something else. I will try this. I have used Drydex only once, but not for this type of application, it was for a small emergency sheetrock repair. A related question - what type of caulk do you use at the trim-wall interface? I've used various Dap products (their so-called fast dry is the absolute worst) and invariably have not been happy with the results for one reason or another, with shrinkage being the biggest problem. btw, when you mentioned to not use caulk for nail holes, you mentioned silicone caulk, which generally isn't paintable anyway. Although I have never tried siliconized latex cault. Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
@@TheJaymzie62 It's only curved in the vertical plane, but is straight in the horizontal direction, so you can wipe up or down. I was doing just that a half hour ago.
This is the comment I was going to add but you beat me to it Incognito! 😎 A sharp putty knife physically CAN'T remove too much putty like even a little too much finger pressure can. Best, Matt
I've always called the DryDex "pink stuff", although if you don't prime it by brush before spraying, all those filled holes will stick out like a sore thumb.
huh, I've done TONS of DIY renovations and those two products are the ones I've landed on also. I'm confident if you try enough of them, you'll end up with those two.
Drydex rocks. Once dry the excess can be wiped off with a barely damp rag. There’s a flooring wood putty that also works well that I’m experimenting with.
At least that product is also used for drywall holes, so it's relatively easy to sand. When I did my house years ago, I was quite new at this. I used wood filler from those squeezable tubes. I intentionally left too much on, thinking it would be easy to sand flat. Nope! It dried quite hard and took a ton of sanding on every nail, because the sandpaper would just roll over it leaving a smooth bump that was a nightmare to flatten. Drove me insane! Now, I still use wood filler, but I also smooth it immediately with my finger like you do, and I also carry a damp rag so if there's too much residue smeared over the trim, I can wipe it clean before it dries.
Thanks. Not sure if you mentioned this in any of your video but do you touch up paint the filled holes or paint the whole molding afterwards? thanks. I think you mentioned you prepaint the molding first..
What would you use on wood trim that's stained? I recently took dark wood paneling down and drywalled. Now it's time to put the trim back up but I need to fill all the old nail holes first. Thoughts?
QUESTION? Have you ever installed prefinished crown. I recently had to install 5 1/2" prefinished crown. I found it was not possible to get the miters perfect and I ended up buying a gallon of conversion varnish, masking everything and spraying all the crown. I do a lot of prefinished crown over kitchen cabinets but 5 1/2" was beyond my skill level for doing prefinished crown. In the end it turned out great but it's the first and last time I will ever do it.
As you said, 'simple process', so I don't want to over complicate it. However, what do think about filling several holes, maybe over two or three feet, then lightly wiping with a damp natural sponge? One of those sponges that looks like a real sponge from the ocean. I don't get it too wet or press too hard as you don't want to push the filler out of the holes.
There are a lot of pros who watch this channel so I realize this may be very basic to you. But there are a lot of DIY and entry level people who watch as well. For that reason I have been trying to cover the basics lately and get all of these questions answered! Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any question!
Finish Carpentry TV do you ever use DAP painters putty?
How about using a wet cloth to remove excess after it drys. It works but it seems like it may pull some out of the hole.
Ive use easy patch and painters putty, which is like a spackel, dries quick, im sure we all have a go to product once we know it works like a champ. Great videos!
window glazing.
I’ve used the same pink sparkle for years and it’s awesome. I curious to understand in which applications you use the plastic wood.
I appreciate that you provide information like this so that DIYers like me, can tackle minor repairs. Not everyone has money to hire a professional and a little knowledge goes a long way. I love your channel. Thank you for all that you share! ♡
I'm a 70 year old widow who is trying to learn all kinds of home improvement info so I can do needed maintenance myself, as much as possible. You did a great job of explaining the product and demonstrating how to use it. Now, once the tub of it gets here from Amazon, I have nail holes to fill! Thank you!!
Sandy, where do you live? Any chance you're in Denver or Grand Junction?
I can't tell you how rad these videos actually are. If you're a pro watching, I'm sure it's basic and even intuitive. But if you are learning, and this work isn't your primary job, these are worth as much as gold. Thank you brother, the way you teach these skills is amazing.
I use the drydex and always leave excess and sand it off later. It never even occurred to me to wipe it off while wet. This video has increased my earning potential doing base by no less than 10-15% and didn't cost me a penny. Now that's a deal. Thanks Richard.
No matter how much i think I know anything, I always learn something (or confirm something) by watching your channel. Thanks
My husband and I are building a new home. The concrete, framing, siding, and roof we hired out, all the rest we are doing. So, as a 63 yo DIYer I appreciate the professional expertise and knowledge you provide on your channel. Thanks for sharing your favorite materials and tips. Keep those videos coming, I'll be watching! KUDOS! from the building site in Omaha AR.
Wow. this is the best video I've ever seen for filling small nail holes. I've been filling nail holes every time I move and I never do a really good job so, as soon as I watched this video I tried this technique and the method worked so well I made nail holes in a scrap piece of wood to practice on. It's almost impossible to believe how simple and effective this method is for filling nail holes. Sanding with your bare finger really works, it's almost like magic. Thanks a million. I've already told a friend about this video.
I gave my 11yr old daughter drydex in the tube to fill holes. She said she wanted to help. Now she spots nail holes wherever we are from across the room. Lol
Haha that’s awesome!
@@Pens4Life85 or u make you own sandwiches if your daughters a badass that wants to actually work..
AHAHAAAA!!! Great job dad! My daughter is the same!
the level a new mind can learn at is astonishing
I like the drydex as well. I’ve found that if I do need to sand it once it’s dry, a damp rag works better than sandpaper. It’s too “rubbery” to sand well, but a damp rag smooths it out perfectly.
I'm a DIY guy. You are a great teacher. You take your time explaining things. I know time is hard to come by.
I wanted to say Thanks!! I have learned a lot by watching your video.
Used this for years! You can also smooth it out once it’s dried, if you leave too much, with a damp rag. It smooths right out.
You really need to work on your sentence structure.
you are a real craftsman and class act and make it look so easy. Keep the videos coming particularly when the kids can get in the act
Such a tease with the plastic wood filler mention!
This channel, and others like it, are changing my life. Thank you.
You are an extremely good teacher love this channel!
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. I am a very experienced diy’er with over 40 years of experience and still love learning about new products and ways of doing things differently. Your videos always provide me with other ways of looking at the issues we all deal with and a fresh perspective. I cannot thank you enough for producing such informative content.
Cheers from Canada. 🥰
Journeyman Painter,
Been using these products since they came out, prior was Crawford's. This man is 💯 correct.
Old days we always used Dap 33 glazing compound. Always kept a ball of it in your shirt pocket. Now I use Patch-n-paint. Even if the tub dries out you can add water and mix it up with a putty knife and it's good to go again.
I did this last weekend after installing baseboards for the first time in one of the kids rooms. I used a putty knife and it was so fast and easy. I went back with a sanding block but it wasn’t needed. Thank you so much for the tip!
Nailed it on the application. I'm not a trim guy but I've been painting cars for over 10 years. I've seen guys putty rock chips on cars the same way and it ends up making more work and causing more issues later. Tight clean skim coats are all that's needed. Same principle.
Finally the video I was waiting for. Such a mundane topic but so important in the process. A lot of great follow up comments on the subject too. Thanks!
I used to use Dap's Painters Putty. Easy to use and doesn't shrink. Haven't been able to find it for years though.
My man. I love the dap drydex. It has so many uses around the house. Love your videos bro, keep up the great work. I learn so much from you.
I am a professional painter and I've been using this stuff or stuff like it for years. It's the best way to fill nail holes and it doesn't require primer and it wont "flash" when painted.
this is good to know. I've seen what happens when people paint joint compound without priming.
I usually do hvac and electrical but recently have had a job to build a couple of book shelves. I used that pink stuff and was amazed by it! I enjoyed working on the shelves. Ima get some more finish work!
👍Thank you so much for sharing with us all! As a painter for 20+ years it's easier to have them watch your videos to explain!
I like to use kraft singles. It won't crack, and cleanup is delicious.
You're the 1st person ive ever heard, actually say that plastic garbage is delicious
Big tip with the drydex: BEWARE OF FLASHING!! Especially if using higher sheen paints. Must either prime or do a couple under layers of paint before finishing coat
I've only noticed this with spraying. I always prime new trim by hand, then spray the top coat
I'm a painter by trade, and I don't really do much trim, but I love watching your channel. You do amazing work.
Thank you for this video. I just asked this on your last video about caulking and got a few answers but was pleasantly surprised to see you put out a video addressing this exact question. You do excellent work and I appreciate you passing your knowledge and tips on. Thanks again!
Excellent products. Can I throw in two other "greats" I find myself going back to over & over? One is lightweight Fast-n-Final (this stuff is so light you'll think you're buying air!) - it's great because it dries fast & really light so that you can use it on a punch list day on your way out the door and maybe not even have to paint over it. The second is Ready Patch. This stuff is AWESOME. Interior or exterior. An amazing filler that really stands up.
I use drydex and love the results.
Quick tip if you haven’t figured it out two years down the road. Buy the tubes of that pink dap. It doesn’t get crusty inside and you just squeeze out a perfect amount for a nail hole on your finger. So fast, handy, and easy. Love the videos. Thanks for this product idea two years ago.
I like your method. It is simple and basic.
I have used the pink product for some time and I find that if you discover you have inadvertently left a small amount of excess filler after it dries, a damp terry cloth rag will easily and quickly take it off and no sanding is required.
Great channel. I have been watching for a while and especially like your technique for gluing mitered corners. I am going to look for the name of the glue you used now. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thanks for taking the time for this. Im about to take on a fill in project and this is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks again.
I love using drydex pink wood filler! I always keep a tube handy around the house
Richard- we just went through this exact process with some custom shiplap- a lot of high end painter threads recommend MH Ready Patch, yet I like your products- You also might note if it's important to prime patched nail heads before finish coating as I've heard stories of bleeding due to certain patching compounds whether alcohol based or otherwise
Jon Dunn i use all three, ready patch/drydex/plastic wood (just started using plastic) a flex version of drydex. They all have slightly diff applications. Though I love having an assortment of versatile fillers. “Level5” compound/painters have a crazy assortment of diff spackles!? Why shouldn’t I? 😃 We did a huge kitchen ceiling (maybe around 30’ x 15’) w/ MDF panels. (Using something around 18” x 3/4” x 12’ mdf w/ 3/4” gap between each panel...Took us well over a week from start to finish) we sanded & patched every butt joint with ready patch! Works great for those larger applications where u buy in a gallon & put it on w/ a 6”knife. We don’t paint usually but I still like to fill any obnoxious or excessive nail holes with drydex & just in general set up my fellow contractors w/ an easier job! There is only 1 more guy after in the “finish” trade. Then I will pull out the flex spackle (lighter, & has a little flex to it) if the wood is gunna be somewhere I predict extra movement (maybe a casing miter around a window) I’ve witnessed many painters using plastic wood that’s why I bought it recently & ALL have a gallon of ready patch on hand. Last would be bondo & that’s the big guns! But your not patching nail holes with that lol she’s for the extra big holes/gaps/splices! Polyester based chemical product, very hard no shrinking nearly unbreakable (of course u can break anything) hardest filler product I’ve experienced with many applications! Smells nasty...
Thanks for this great information. Not redundant for us new DIYers. I am applying bead board panels and used silicone caulk to fill the nail holes, and after drying, just spent a lot of time scraping it off since it wouldn't sand successfully. I am on my way to the store to buy the Drydex.. Your video was helpful.
They make the drydex in a tube too. I just carry the tube around with me and put it on my finger as I go.
I’ve been doing hardwood floors for 25 years those two products are really good for filling nail holes also wood wise floor filler works really good
Why don’t you use bondo?
I just figured this out this morning, so glad to see you are sharing with other DIY folks. A rabbit chewed up the front of my daughter's drawer, and I've been nervous about doing this, afraid I'd do it wrong. I started last night and used a putty knife, but this morning saw there were still several holes. I decided to use my finger and it was perfect! Wasn't even sure if this was the "right" way, so again I say thank you!
Great video and very simplistic.I know even the most basic job can cause addition work if not done correctly. I like that you reach a broad spectrum of people. Keep up the good work Bro'.
My favorite product on all my trim. Personally I use a damp rag just as its turning paler pink and it takes off the excess WITHOUT removing your fill PLUS it wont flash. If you leave ANY excess without wiping or sanding and then paint, it will definitely flash even with a paint conditioner like Flood
Mike what do you mean by "flash"?
@Summit X correct you are friend! That is a good explanation.
@@josephd2059 I have personally used this in many ways. For example. Bondo is another product in my tool arsenal but there are certain situations where I really would rather not use Bondo. So I have used this product when filling smaller cracks and voids up to 1/8" to 3/16". I would fill, allow drytime, and fill again. One situation I use the drydex for a lot is when I'm doing touch up work or adding additional trim to an existing door frame/jamb and it's quite obvious that at some point during the doors usage; paint had chipped and/or peeled and was painted over several times. Rather than removing, stripping, sanding and refinishing; I would use the drydex with a 3-4" putty knife (depending on size of chip/peeling/blemish) and fill the chip to level out the surface, then lightly sand, re-paint, and you're golden. You've resurfaced a crappy looking spot and leveled years of paint over. It's VERY versatile product due to its lack of shrink and pliable texture
@Summit X Thanks for the reply.
Great video you really simplified how quick and easy this task is. I’m currently doing baseboard and door casing in the bedrooms and there will be many nail holes to cover.
Thanks
My tip is wipe the excess with a plastic or Bondo (metal car filler) flexible spreader. Smother than your finger and won't leave a dimple that your finger sometimes does. and its faster because you don't have to wipe your finger as often and easier on your fingers.
I’ve found that you can actually “sand” excess sparkle with a damp sponge even after it has dried.
Thank you!! Have tried a few other methods that did not go so well, this is great, thank you!
I mix Elmers Interior Carpenters putty 50/50 with Sherman Williams lightweight spackle. Always make a plastic little "ghost" bag and poke a hole in it like a cake decorator so your tray doesn't dry out.
Thanks for the content Richard.
Can i ask why you mix them together? Better results?
@@the_family_man_clan3378 the putty has a little too thick of a consistency in my experience especially if you get Sherwin-Williams version of the Elmer's Carpenter putty. also the putty alone is very difficult to hand sand. I could probably use putty alone at this point I have a DTS 400 sander I hook up to a vacuum which I highly recommend if you can justify the purchase. I still prefer the consistency of the 50/50 mixture and how it looks when it is finish sanded. I always do a second coat with Bondo glazing putty that is red so you can see where it is and not miss it when sanding
@@NexusCapital im trying to get richard to use the bondo puddy! Maybe he will listen to you! 🤣
Im going to try your 50/50 mix! Thanks
@Rylie J its bondo glaze puddy. There is a ready to use option in a small tube
@Rylie J no it's pretty much the same lol
38 yr.paint contractor. I use Crawford painters putty. Doesn't need priming like spackle or 2cts of finish. Spackle will flash if it doesn't have 2cts.on top. Wit b that said another of people don't use it correctly.. must press into hole well and knock down with sanding sponge
Thanks for making this video that answers my question on screw holes as well I seen other videos but they just cover the hole and not fill it in and I would prefer to fill it in
Hi over here in the uk a trick I learnt when working in sensitive places in hospitals where larger areas were needing filler, we used a Damp cellulose decorating sponge to wipe excess of so as not to get any dust in the wards or sensitive rooms,
Our nail hole filler was Red Devil , used to use polyfilla made by Polycell , though they changed formula , especially the exterior type. Now needs an alkaline primer
Thank you ! I tried many products including Dap Alex flex which is great to fill space between trims and walls but not for hiding nail holes, lucky for me I already have dap dry dex :)
Thanks for the tip regarding the nail filler. I use the same stuff around the house and can really appreciate how well it works.
You are a very good teacher, thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge
My wife, who's never done woodwork, will watch your videos for hours LOL. Thanks for all the great tips. I love how you bring it down to my level & don't assume I know the little stuff. For example spending time showing me exactly how to line up a measuring mark, or explain exactly what "setting a corner" means.
Question: Another TH-cam video said to use DAP Painter's Putty, and not spackle as it requires sanding. Do you think I'd see any difference between the DAP Spackle you recommend vs. DAP Painter's Putty? I like the sound of not painting later, but I'd really like to not see even a trace of nail holes, even if it's just a texture difference. I pre-paint my trim then touchup later, in case that matters.
when do you use the other Dap product?
Nail filler sounds like a beauty application
Mine concaved and can still see the nail holes. I just started on trim in my house, never done it before which brought me to your channel. Thank you got me excited to do it and you definitely make it look easy which it is not.
I force the Drydex into the hole and give it a wipe with finger. Then I put a spot more on making a little "volcano" pushing right over the hole and lifting straight up. When dry sand flush.
Watching from Ireland 🇮🇪 fantastic channel 👏
You need to follow up with possible sanding and then prime and paint the nail holes. Also when to caulk trim to the wall. And the difference when you do nail holes in paint grade versus stain grade. Thanks for your videos, pal!
I really appreciate your videos. Great job in everything you’re doing. Quality workmanship! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks for the nail hole filling tips. I’ve been using Dap Simple Seal silicone in my projects. I haven’t had any shrinkage issues yet, but I’ll take your word that silicone fillers eventually shrink.
Yes they will,they're made to be flexible and not crack in extreme temperatures and or movement
Bought some of that plastic wood filler the pink stuff, you were right on it works great. Thanks for the tip
I have tried every product out there to fill holes, I’ve found and only use MH ready patch…IMO best product out there.
This was awesome. Thank you!! I am not sure if you mentioned this but I just painted my trim white, installed it, and now am looking to filled the nail holes so this is perfect timing. After I fill the nail holes, do I go over this spots with a little white paint again? Thanks again for the help!!
Great information and I had actually already bought some of that sparkling. At sparkling. I was so relieved when I saw it and had to go to the store I already had it but it's only a small container so I might still have to go to the store thank you
I use the Dap pink with a 1” knife. Works a treat
Drydex spackle and CA glue for the win on my remodel!
I even used spackle for baseboard to wall gaps and not caulking. Took longer of course but results in a nice clean corner for paint transition between wall and base.
Great tip bud but I personally prefer to use a putty knife to get the filler flush to the surface of the work plane
I like to use spackle too. One time, no shrink, no sand. Dap33 window glaze works really good too. Just make sure it's cured before you paint so it doesn't bleed...
QUESTION: Which finger on which hand shall we use? (On a serious note, I appreciate knowing the pink stuff works. I've used caulking before, and you're right, I can now see all the holes.) I always love your videos. Thank you!
I used the pink on a few inside miters...not too bad a joint, but just enough to catch the eye. (Came with the house). Anyway, I have a small assortment of artist's spatulas that I used to clean and smooth out the joints after applying the filler. I'd recommend having a couple in your mixed bag of tricks. You can find them at most craft and hobby stores.
I've been away from the contractor field for over 15 years. I used DAP oil base filler that works great. For basic nail hole. I would make a prune size ball and press firmly into the nail hole and swipe in one direction and after swipe in the opposite direction. Having the same results as yours with no need to sand and no shrinkage.anything bigger I would use late filler, like your product. Have you ever use this product and your opinion.
Thanks.
George
8:10 I was wondering about whether you do a quick touch sanding with a sponge or flat sander on flat trim after the Drydex dries. It just seems like SOME residue would be left behind with just the finger technique, like you typically see when an amateur tries to "spackle" a small nail hole in a wall and leaves a mess because they don't sand after it dries. This seems especially so, that on trim, which is going to have some degree of gloss to the paint, is going to clearly show off any imperfections.
Otherwise, I've always used Dap glazing compound and even it seems to shrink just a little over time, enough to leave a small dimple. So I decided to search out something else. I will try this. I have used Drydex only once, but not for this type of application, it was for a small emergency sheetrock repair.
A related question - what type of caulk do you use at the trim-wall interface? I've used various Dap products (their so-called fast dry is the absolute worst) and invariably have not been happy with the results for one reason or another, with shrinkage being the biggest problem. btw, when you mentioned to not use caulk for nail holes, you mentioned silicone caulk, which generally isn't paintable anyway. Although I have never tried siliconized latex cault.
Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
I have use Dap Patch-N-Paint for years and it works great. Give it a try some time
As always I THROUGHLY enjoy learning from you
Instead of wiping with my finger, I like to use a 2" flexible knife. It's quick and clean. Particularly helpful for larger holes.
What about for curved surfaces, like this crown?
@@TheJaymzie62 I assume that is why he uses a flexible knife.
@@TheJaymzie62 It's only curved in the vertical plane, but is straight in the horizontal direction, so you can wipe up or down. I was doing just that a half hour ago.
This is the comment I was going to add but you beat me to it Incognito! 😎 A sharp putty knife physically CAN'T remove too much putty like even a little too much finger pressure can. Best, Matt
@@TheJaymzie62 you can still use a putty knife I use 1" but for bigger holes you may need a bigger knife
I've always called the DryDex "pink stuff", although if you don't prime it by brush before spraying, all those filled holes will stick out like a sore thumb.
huh, I've done TONS of DIY renovations and those two products are the ones I've landed on also. I'm confident if you try enough of them, you'll end up with those two.
Thank yo u for pointers! I love doing this kind of work! But want to do it correctly and efficiently!
I came here for your expert opinion and found out that you and I agree on the same filler! Thanks for the video! DD
This was a real useful I’ve been using caulking all this time thanks
Drydex rocks. Once dry the excess can be wiped off with a barely damp rag. There’s a flooring wood putty that also works well that I’m experimenting with.
Richard, your awesome. Bob Vila has a poster of you on his bedroom all.
That's some funny shit man!
carpenter for over 40 years thats the painters job
God forbid you learn how to make your work look better - he’s a contractor not just a finish carpenter.
At least that product is also used for drywall holes, so it's relatively easy to sand. When I did my house years ago, I was quite new at this. I used wood filler from those squeezable tubes. I intentionally left too much on, thinking it would be easy to sand flat. Nope! It dried quite hard and took a ton of sanding on every nail, because the sandpaper would just roll over it leaving a smooth bump that was a nightmare to flatten. Drove me insane! Now, I still use wood filler, but I also smooth it immediately with my finger like you do, and I also carry a damp rag so if there's too much residue smeared over the trim, I can wipe it clean before it dries.
If you need to sand use a sanding sponge instead of paper or try a damp regular sponge and wipe gently
I love everything about what you do brother! Keep up the awesome work!
So simple but important!
Awesome!
I HAVE BEEN IN THE PAINTING TRADE FOR 45 YRS AND USE CRAWFORDS PAINTERS PUTTY
I appreciate you making this video. Very helpful.
I worked at a trim carpentry company and we used the pink spackle too.
Do you have to prime the nail hole and then paint it? I've seen nail holes looking a different color under the paint.
Thank you for making this video. The people that I work with wanted me to use 45 quick dry.
Thanks. Not sure if you mentioned this in any of your video but do you touch up paint the filled holes or paint the whole molding afterwards? thanks. I think you mentioned you prepaint the molding first..
I'm switching to DryDex. Might also get a navy blue shirt too whenever you can restock larger sizes.
This is my go to filler. I keep a small just lightly damp sponge and wipe it. No sanding or extremely little afterwards. Just don't over wipe
What would you use on wood trim that's stained? I recently took dark wood paneling down and drywalled. Now it's time to put the trim back up but I need to fill all the old nail holes first. Thoughts?
I go over the fill hole with damp stiff kitchen sponge to remove excess fill, no sanding necessary and no flashing coming threw paint.
Except that it will leave a halo.
QUESTION? Have you ever installed prefinished crown. I recently had to install 5 1/2" prefinished crown. I found it was not possible to get the miters perfect and I ended up buying a gallon of conversion varnish, masking everything and spraying all the crown. I do a lot of prefinished crown over kitchen cabinets but 5 1/2" was beyond my skill level for doing prefinished crown. In the end it turned out great but it's the first and last time I will ever do it.
As you said, 'simple process', so I don't want to over complicate it. However, what do think about filling several holes, maybe over two or three feet, then lightly wiping with a damp natural sponge? One of those sponges that looks like a real sponge from the ocean. I don't get it too wet or press too hard as you don't want to push the filler out of the holes.
Some high quality content my Guy. Keep it up 👌👌👌🔥