When and How to Add Tire Sealant
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2021
- How often should you check the sealant in your bike tires, and how do you do it? Watch and find out!
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When you've pushed the plunger all the way to the bottom, and there's still some sealant in the tube at the bottom, pull the plunger all the way out and then put it back in - that will create an air pocket between the plunger and the sealant at the other end, and hopefully allow you to plunge until the tube is empty, avoiding most of the mess when removing the injector tube afterwards - and I'd put a piece of shop towel around the base, just to soak up anything that might spill out.
That's what I do too. After I wait for couple seconds and turn the wheel half a turn(valve from bottom to top) - wait couple seconds and remove the syringe. all the excess sealant runs to the hose of the syringe.
Thanks, this was exactly what I was looking for. Great info with no fluf , ummms or stupidity. Excellent job.
Another great video full of personal best-practice advice that coincides 100% with my own experience. That’s comforting! Thanks so much!
I have a syringe whose straw is small enough to slide inside the valve stem. I insert the straw into the sealant bottle and draw back the plunger to fill it. There is no mess using this method and no sealant gets on the threads of the valve core. Of course, breaking the bead allows a more thorough and visual indication of the condition of your tire. Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful info here. I should've watched this video before adding sealant to my tubeless tires for the frist time this morning. I used Stan's injector, but knew no better than to fill it with sealant before plugging it into the valve and positioning it like you did. Took me a bit of time to clean up the mess on the garage floor...
Just want to say thank you, your video helped me a lot! Cheers from Canada
Thanks for sharing. Good information and will check the sealant after the ride today.
Great video! Very clear info and right to the point! Thank you
Thanks dude I’m gonna buy some Stan’s and try this today. Appreciate it
Informative and clearly explained. Thank you.
Great vid Clint! And thanks for the reminder to check my sealant….
Thanks for telling us how much fluid to install.
I use the syringe method. It was hell to get the tire seated onto the bead the first time so I didn’t want to face that nightmare again. Also, have some spare valve cores handy. I broke a valve core because I was a little ham-fisted with screwing it back on.
Fantastic video! I've had my bike for 9 months and covered 1100km with numerous rim dings. I've never checked the sealant level and never had a flat! I'll be doing it imminently though as I will be getting a lot of riding in over the Christmas period!
You wait for a flat then …. It’s coming!!! OH …. Make sure you check each 3 months too lmfao 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 so you now have FOUR SCHEDULED “SERVICE FLATS” now with this IDIOTIC IDEA !!!!!
Very helpful video, thank you 😊
Thank you. Excellent video
Top tip. A small length of sram 1x 11 xx1 chain is the right size to use to remove a valve core.
I don’t bother with the plunger in the syringe.
Take out the valve core put on the syringe kink the tube fill syringe with sealant unkink and it flows on its own.
Best video. Thank you Sir!
VERY helpful, thank you!
great video very helpful and imformative
Very useful video thanks. I’ve tried using the syringe and ended up with as much sealant on the floor as in the tyre, think I’ll pop the tyre off next time as it looks a lot less hassle than I thought it might be.
Great video, buddy!
Solid video man 🙏💯
Very useful video!!! 👌
Good video. Thanks!
Nice video's !
Just some lil advice if you want to fill with the injector spill free, you dont use the plunger, just lift the injector and let gravity do the filling, when you remove the injector after its all poured in, you wont spill... (almost nothing :-))
Hey, thx for the video and Nice and clear instructions.
And would like to add a little something, as i am from Belgium the weather is all different here(lots of Rain) and as long as i dont have a puncture i'm good for at least 6 months and only check every 3 months or before a big event or trip, i completely clean the tyre once every year. Only used 3 brands SO far (shwalbe, stans and cactus) the cactus one drys UP the fastest
Thanks for the info!
Well done.
Thank you.
Hey Clint - thanks for the great videos! They have helped me on more than many occasions! Had a weird flat after the end my last ride which I noticed while I was washing the bike and sure enough, all the sealant had dried up after only 2 months, and thanks to this video I saved myself some trouble and used a syringe to inject 2oz simple and done.
BTW, next time you are in Pisgah you should organize a fan group ride!
I'll actually be in Pisgah most likely Sunday and Monday.
@@ClintGibbs I just got an xcaliber 9 a few months ago and it was supposed to be "tubeless ready" (what the salesman told me), I've never had tubeless before but the front tire was going completely flat after 2 days of sitting inside. Rear tire holds pressure a little longer (about 4 days). I found that odd so I rode to the shop about 10 miles and they added sealant to the front tire only.. Do you think I need more sealant in the rear as well? I haven't done trail riding yet just some gravel and dirt road stuff with my nephew so I haven't done any crazy things on this bike yet lol 🤦♂️
Thanks
@@michaelrowe5896 you should have sealant in both tires
Only need to break the bead for 4 to 6 spokes worth on either side of the valve, you'll be able to see how much sealant is left easy enough, and the tire holds its shape more consistently avoiding spills. When adding from the big bottle just go direct to the tire and visually look for the puddle in the tire to be about 4 spokes wide. Also a great time to service the valve and clean out any sealant that may be coagulating on inside/bottom of the valve to keep inflating and adjusting pressure smooth and consistent. The injector/syringe seems like a good idea, but you loose the ability to visually inspect the quality of remaining sealant and amount, the remove the watery substance you mentioned, or service the valve (sticking a poky device into the valve with the core removed is a fool's errand and will only push your clog to the inside surface of the valve which in turn only builds a bigger clog faster).
To bring the tire off the rim in adding sealant it is easier to remove it along the entire rim
crankbrothers cobalt owner's trying to fill up to 4 spokes wide:
@@mateusramos1992 ... someone... someone is still using those....???
Hi Clint! Thanks for the video! I just used your method of unseating one side, checking the inside and reseating it using a regular Lezyne floor pump! Just pump fast and rigorously to hear the "pop".
My question is mixing different sealant brands (Stan's vs orange vs muc off) in a tire?
I've not done this, but I've heard industry professionals recommend not mixing brands. But you can mix stans race sealant and regular stans sealant
Very helpful. I'm relatively new to MTB maintenance and don't own a bike stand. Any recommendations for good and inexpensive ones?
Mine lasts the life of the tire or if the tire needs to be removed for some reason . I also use an off brand sealant used for motos and atvs which doesnt dry out and is cheap which is half the cost of a product like stans . I do use a bit more sealant than normal . It has sealed a separating side wall which weeps a bit and some small punctures on the tread area . The front tire is newer and is still in good shape . The rear tire is 9 months old with a lot of miles . My sealant is goopy so it will not slosh around like the thinner stans . I ride mostly in a high desert location with lots of rocky sections .
Any chance you can name the product?
@@michaelferguson7371 Bell tire sealant
Cool video
Have you seen the new park tool syringe to fill up tyres tsi-1
Because it has really large spheres, Stan's says that their Race Sealant (great stuff!) cannot be added through the valve with a syringe or bottle. They also say that Race Sealant needs to be renewed/replaced every 2 months. Another way to check sealant is to pull the valve core and use a small wire tie or an Orange Seal "dipstick" to see if any liquid is present.
Thanks for the video. I haven't ever cleaned my sealant out and a shop set the tires up for me. IDK what kind they used and my front tire doesn't seem to be holding air. Is there a rule about mixing different kinds of sealant or is it ok to do that?
I twisted my rear on my klr, stretched the stem, instant full flat.. I used what I had, basically food stuff. Used a hand sanitizer bottle to pump in my "recipe " (maybe 2 tbls) to get "home".. tire wouldn't hold air before I did it, it's now 1 year later & still fine. I'll use my recipe over ANY product sold (and I can eat it if I had to!)
FYI- isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle is great to clean out valve cores.
Invert the be line type tread as extra interior next below new rubber
Took me almost an hour to get my gravel tire bead to seal I would never pop the bead to check my sealant so I always use the plunger.
My sealant is Stanse and was added 14 months ago and I can still hear the splash. I ride once a week, not any week and it is cool and humid here. I guess I'll postpone until I can no longer hear the splash. I always carry an emergency spare tube in case it fails.
6:24 I'm looking for the video on how to pour seal into the valve using the little bottle.
I just bought a tubless ready hardtail, need to add the sealant ,so can I insure beading of tire with a loor pump?
You are awesome. I was just wondering this, I'm on about 3 months with my first tubeless and was noticing some liquid coming through the tire in certain areas. Thanks Clint.
How often do you ride?
@@GunSlingerCal Once a week usually and recently got back from a weekend MTB trip to Oregon.
Just take care not damaging the rim tape when using tire levers.
Thanks for the video! Can you ever add too much sealant to a tire?
Perhaps. You're adding weight, and if you add way too much I would think you would affect the ride quality
Checked my Stans after a year and a half and it still didn’t need topping up!
My icycle stoor for 2 years. Sealant was still fine?
With an all Stans setup (tape + valve stems), what kind of leak rate do you experience day to day? I recently changed over from a factory tape job to a double wrap of Stan's tape, Stan's sealant, and Stan's valve stems, and still leak 3 to 5 psig per day. Kind of disappointing to have to keep adding pressure every day.
Thats not good. I have Stans sealent and no or very very little pressure loss over 5 months time
I had a question about compatability ... Bought the bike a year ago and have no idea what kind of sealant was in there . If it's dry then is there a problem changing brands ? If not dry I'm guessing I should clean it all out first ?
Again great job on the video. Thanks.
Probably not a big deal but if the original sealant has dried up I think you can add whatever kind you want.
My problem is that my tire valve is tiny, and i do mean tiny, so even tire sealant for bikes sprays everywhere sadly.
Even the smaller of the 2 sizes included on mine, is to big.
Are there perhaps special kinds of sealants that has like tiny tiny nozzles ?
Would be awesome if there was such a thing, since my home village is littered with pieces of glass, thorns, sharp stones and very rough tarmac sadly, a tire fixers dream.
If your tires are tubeless, just get some Stan’s valve stems.
Doesn't the internal pressure of the tire blow back on the sealant?
So I got my first flat today after having my bike for about 3 weeks. I want to go tubeless but have seen some videos where people put the sealant inside the tube and then run it that way. What is your opinion putting sealant in the tube as oppose to not having a tube and putting sealant inside the tire and rim>
You can do that but you are losing other benefits of tubeless as in better tire performance and lower weight.
Thanks for the useful content but don't you need to pump up the tyre really quickly before adding the sealant to make sure it will sit on the rim properly?
There are different ways to do it. That is one way to do it if you are just going to remove the valve core and add sealant through the valve stem.
I prefer not to break the bead and just inject sealant through the valve. Quicker and easier since you don't need to reseat the bead. Also you should consider drawing the sealant directly from the bottle using the syringe. It doesn't drip out due to air pressure. I do this all the time and it is a clean easy way to do it.
Thanks
@@ClintGibbs I think re-seating the bead can be challenging for some of us. Any suggestions on a floor pump you prefer (as most of us lack a shop compressor)?
Every time I've broken only one bead, I've been able to air up the tire with a normal floor pump.
@Nick - Me too.
@@paulbigbee Many pump manufacturers have pumps with integrated high pressure air cylinders to help seat tubeless tires. Topeak Joeblow booster is one. Alternatively, you can buy a stand-alone high pressure pump cylinder that you can inflate using your existing floor pump. Airshot makes one.
The video mentions to soak up and replace sealant if it has become too watery. Should the stuff that has caked on to the tire be removed/cleaned off as well? Is this ever necessary? Also, with so many options, are there specific brands that are just better.
I’ve always used Stan’s and it has worked well for me so I have not tried other brands. As far as the caking around the tire, that actually helps better seal the tire. If it gets excessive you can scrape some off but I never do.
Quick question. Not sure what sealant was used initially on my bike, can you mix sealants? Thanks!
I think it’s best to not mix different brands. You can mix Stans race sealant with their regular sealant.
cushcore makes this so much more complex. the Race sealant won't fit thru the valve, so I can only go for the bead method...
What's the point of those little Stans bottles? Why not just get the big bottle?
How did you reseat the bead on that tire with a regular pump? I tried for over an hour with mine and was never so mad at bicycle tech in my 25 years of bike love haha finally got my buddy to use his air compressor on it to reseat the bead
If you only break one bead it’s a lot easier to reset. You can also use a CO2 cartridge but you need to be careful and make sure all the sealant is at the bottom and the valve stem is at the top.
I just got a new bike and the dealership installed sealant in the tire before I took delivery. If the bike isnt ridden on a regular basis would it be of any benefit to spin the tires on occasion to keep an even coating of sealant on the inside or doesnt it matter ?
Doesn’t really matter. Might actually help it last longer by pooling together in one spot. Sealant will dry out in a few months of use.
Do suggest patching the cut once you get home?
If the sealant holds the first time then no, you don't need to patch it. But if air is leaking out slowly or the sealant intermittently seals the whole, then yes, I recommend using a glue-On inner tube patch and patching from inside the tire.
Hello quick question. On a bike that has tubeless tires XC 29er would it be possible to switch to tubes? Just got a new bike and am going to give this bike to my nephew. Hopefully can swap to tubes for him. Less hassle. Thanks
Absolutely. You just need to take out the valve stem from the hole. It’s actually a good idea to carry a tube when you’re riding with tubeless tires in case you get a puncture that does not seal and you don’t have plugs.
Wait, wait, wait!!! You broke the bead but the video showed you pumping the tire back up with a standard hand pump. How did you make that happen? I always need to use the air compressor after breaking the bead. Sorry, I’m new to this tubeless thing (old school and getting back into biking). Thanks.
Often times if you only break one bead you can pump it back up with a standard floor pump. If that doesn’t work then it’s off to the air compressor.
Very helpful video. Thanks. I've noticed at least for me, when using the bottle or injector sometimes the sealant actually seals up before all the sealant has been injected into the tire. Any suggestions, other than breaking the tire bead? Thanks
Are you using the regular sealant or the race sealant? The race sealant cannot be used with the injector.
@@ClintGibbs Using the race sealant. So that answers my question. If you happen to know, what is the difference between the two? Maybe I should just use the regular, I wasn't paying much attention when I purchased my 32oz bottle.
@@jaysanzo3382 race sealant is much thicker. Seals better but is harder to work with.
@@ClintGibbs Thank you so much.
How much sealant for a 20x2.40 tire ? Would it be too bad if I out more than recommended ? I know it will cause extra weight.
It’s just extra weight, no other negative issues.
I had mine professionally installed over 1 year ago I bought all the tools to do it myself but my tire is so hard to take off any suggestions on what might have happened? I can't get the tire to pop off the rim.
Are you able to at least break the bead? Once you do, make sure you hold the bead down in the middle of the rim as you get the rest of it off.
If there is a lot of old sealant is it better to get all of it off from the tire and rim?
No. Just let the wheel be still for 5 minutes and most of the old sealant will pool in the tire. Then get it out if it’s brown or watery.
is "stans" the same as schwalbe "doc blue?" the liquid looks the same and even the bottle
It could be. I know that Giant releases their own sealant but I think it's just a Stan's bottle with a different label
Oh so you remove the bead from the rim and then you install back without cleaning the bead??? I thought that was not a good practice. Can you explain a little bit more. Thanks for the help in advance.
I'll clean the bead from time to time if it looks bad but usually it's not necessary.
@@ClintGibbs Awesome! Appreciated man....
does the injector work with the stans race sealant which is thicker
It does not, at least that’s what Stan’s says. Knowing how thick it is, I would go with what they say.
I would NEVER take the tyre off unless it was absolutely necessary because the sealant had failed to repair the puncture. I suck the sealant from the bottle with a measured syringe, remove the valve core and inject the sealant into the valve stem. Takes about 5 minutes to do both tyres. My wheels are 700x40 and I inject 30ml every 3 months. How can popping the bead and removing the tyre be ‘less messy’?
Just the simple fact that you can get a little bit of spillage when removing the syringe. Not a big deal but popping the beat off I typically get no spillage. And, like I said the video, I get to check the quality of the sealant and to see if any rubber balls are formed.
I agree that which method is less messy is debatable. However popping a bead off and looking at the inside of the tire is a good practice in my opinion and it really shouldn't be difficult to reseat a tire on a single bead. I will say that on tubeless road and tight fitting cyclocross tires I like to add sealant through the valve but it's circumstantial. Saying "I would NEVER" just shows you've had a very specific set of circumstances in your experience, one day you "might" have a massive amount of dried sealant built up in your tire if you never check.
Of course YMMV but I have had such struggles in the past getting a bead to seat b/c of super tight tire/wheel combinations that I am loath to pop the bead if I don't have too. I don't care about any excess weight from sealant build up, and have never been "infested" with the "Stanimals"... :)
@@mattkavanaugh5623 "your mileage may vary" is a very reasonable thing to say in this situation. I don't get why a tight bead is hard to seat, that should make it easier in my mind but thats just me. There have been many times I've unseated a customers tire to inspect a flat and found a ball of sealant because they just keep adding without checking. I think it's mostly people that travel a lot and let their tires cook in the sun but either way I'd rather know than not know. Now that I don't work in a shop my rule of thumb is that if you're going to run tubeless then you should set it up yourself and know the system. How you take care of it is up to you. As long as you're riding and having fun then that works for me.
When using a syringe to add sealant, turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the top before removing the syringe. That avoids the mess you show in the video.
I flip my bike to oil the fork seals about every three days and the stem always turn to six o'clock, is this a bad idea because of filling the stem with sealant, I've only been doing this for three months
I don't think so because the sealant is going to drop down in the tire and not go into the valve stem.
@@ClintGibbs I haven't talked to anyone about it and when this vid came out it reminded me. Thanks Clint, you're still the best
I tried the “break bead” method but the tire was glued to the carbon rim with sealant. Is this normal? What’s the Best way to unglue so that tire levers can be used?
I’ve never encountered a tire that was so stuck to the rim you could not push it off with both thumbs. If it’s that stuck I would leave it in the sun for an hour and then just try to push hard with both thumbs and then unseat it all the way around the rim.
@@ClintGibbs I'll try the heat (sun) method next time. Could it be that the hard sealant, on the inside of the rim, formed a hardened ridge, making it extremely difficult to push tire off the rim? Also, I checked my records and the sealant has been in the tire for 17 months. Could that be part of the problem? (This is my first ever tubules setup, so I'm learning.) Thanks for your very helpful video!
@@stevec.5273 I’m not saying that couldn’t happen but I’ve never seen that before. I have a feeling it’s just really dried your tire in to the channel of the bead.
why do i feel guilty now.....my sealant is over 1 1/2 old. never checked it. rhuh rho
2 years here 🤣. And I’ve had tire blow outs on hard turns... still no sealant top up. Maybe this weekend I’ll check it!
What should you do if you can hear rubber balls in the tire? My front wheel sounds like it has sand in it.
Just undo one bead of the tire (you don’t even need to unseat the entire bead) and pull them out. This is also the best way to check the levels of current sealant
@@ClintGibbs Thanks Clint, your video is excellent!
Tubless adopters... saves weight bro!
Sealant... secretly coating tyres to more than an inner tubes thickness.
My gravel bike is losing a fair amount of pressure in the rear tire after just a day lately, could this possibly be the reason?
Possibly, but I have a maxxis rambler on the front of my gravel bike that simply won't hold air. I need to shake it around but haven't made time yet.
I had the same problem a few weeks back. I pulled the valve core to add more sealant and noticed the valve core had gummed up a bit with sealant. I used a valve core from a discarded tube to replace it and did not add sealant. I aired up to pressure and it has held with very small normal loss since. Problem was with the valve core being gummed up and not allowing a good seal when hand tightening after regular pressure topping off. That being said, I likely need to add a bit of sealant to that wheel now after 6 months of use.
@@awesomexistence soak that gummed up valve core in a little WD-40 and that sealant will come right off.
@@michaelglidewell1524 excellent! Both great ideas thanks. My tires are ramblers too. Makes me wonder.
A friend of mine also has a rambler and has the same issue. Could be the first Maxxis tire I've had issues with!
Do I need a special tire ?
You will need a tubeless ready tire, which most of them today are.
How much sealant do you add for 27.5" tires?
For tires around 2.3 I would use 2 scoops.
@@ClintGibbs each scoop was 2oz?
I see you didn't use a compressor to pump up the tire...so it is,'t always necessary....?
Not always necessary, especially if one bead is already seated.
When injecting the fluid, rotate your value to 4 or 8 o’clock and you don’t spill anything….and you don’t have to take your tire off….
Watery sealant is why I try to avoid using soapy water to seal the tire.
Casually breaks and reinstalls tire bead with the thumb strength of 1,000 men…
Oh shit I haven’t added sealant to mine for 3 years
The injectors sold on Amazon are junky..Any proven brand names?
The Stan’s one I use has worked well for years
When & How to Add Tire Sealant.
Never!
Tubes4Life!
I just decided that I would have an annual check of sealant on all tubeless tires because I flatted on a ride and discovered there was no sealant. Okay, maybe biannual....
unless you have a specialized bike like me and there is no ability to do these things
Your channel is getting pretty robust Clint. Got a lot of stuff covered.
Having a quick scan of the comments, I am the only person who finds the sealant will seal the syringe as I try to push it in? I would love to use this method but with me, it will not push into the tyre via the valve. Yes the valve core has been removed 🙄 and the sealant is Stans Race.
Stans says that you cannot use their race formula in the syringe. It has to be put in by opening the bead.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks, thought it was just me. 😁👍
Good video and super experienced guy but... DO NOT 3:32 remove the bead just to add Stan's (you can see where he edited the resetting of the bead part out of the video, probably for good reason). It can be SUPER SUPER difficult to set the bead again and so unnecessary. DO 6:19 get a $8 core remover and squeeze Stan's it in through the valve. Takes seconds instead of a potential trip the bike shop and using of a compressor to reset the bead.
The main reason to unseat the bead is to check the condition of the sealant, and also make sure you don’t have any of those rubber balls that can form inside. But yes, you do need to make sure that you have a way to inflate in case the pump does not work. A compressor is best, you can also use a CO2 cartridge or there are pumps that are made to blast air inside. I have not tried them on but they seem to work very well from what I’ve seen.
Still on the fence. I'm a roadie.
Slight learning curve but for mountain biking save so much time repairing tires in bug infested woods. Totally worth it.
Know what you mean. I waited a while to convert my road bike to tubeless and my first try at it did not go well. Things have gotten better since then. Key is to get the right combination of tires and wheels. I'm running Stan's wheels with Schwalbe Pro One tires. Put the last set on by hand, pumped them up with floor pump. They are labelled TLE meaning tubeless easy and they really are. Convert and one day you'll be washing your bike and realize the gunk on the seat tube is sealant and say to yourself I don't know when that happened and realize that was the whole point of going tubeless.
Go tubeless. I did for my MTB bikes years ago and it worked so well I converted by road bikes. Get a floor pump with an air reservoir and it makes installing the tires much easier on a road bike.
Tubeless on mountain bikes is a no brainer at this point but not so much on road tires. Tubeless sealant has a much better chance sealing at 30 psi than 90 psi. I personally run tubeless on my road bike but I feel comfortable handling flats as they come. Road tubeless tires are incredibly tight so if you need to add a tube on the side of the road it can be a pretty difficult task. If you like your tubes and aren't flat prone I'd say stick with it. Ive replaced two $80 tubeless road tires that weren't worn out in the past year because the wouldn't seal without a plug which I'm not leaving in long term at high pressures. If I were buying similar tubed tires I would've saved $40-$50. Another tire I replaced after being worn had three punctures I never even worried about because the sealant did it's job so it really just depends.
Tubeless is over-rated. Just fit a good latex tube and be done... no checking, refilling, or mucking about with messy sealant.
LOL, 2-6 mo. I thought initially when he said that he was gonna say 2 yr. (which I know it doesn't last that long) but I've had sealant in my tire for 2 years, never checked it, never flat, all good!
Time to add sealant bro. If you get a puncture you'll be putting in a tube or taking the Nike express.
You can get a flat from the bead separating from the wheel when the sealant is all dried up. Been there, done that. Sealant needs to be recharged/refreshed periodically.
Check your sealant or you’ll regret it!
This does not help. I have tubeless tires with a presta valve that does not have the removable core thing. Bike is losing 20 lbs every 2 days. I can’t find anyone with the answer, and I don’t have any punctures.
Absolutely useless
I’ve actually never seen tubless valves stands without removable valve core. But one thing I would recommend is to pump the tire up with sealant inside and then shake it back-and-forth, rotating it a few inches every time until you go all the way around. Then lay the tire on its side on something like a trashcan so that the rotor or cassette can dip down inside. Leave it for a few hours on each side to seal the side walls.
@@ClintGibbs I just talked to my bike tech. He said to remove the bead on one part, dump it in there, seal it up, and hit it with co2. My brother (also a mechanic) said the same thing. That’s what I’m going to do. Their directions seem much simpler than what you offer
That’s exactly what I show starting at 3:30 of this video. That’s why I showed both methods so you could pick the one that works best for you.
@@ClintGibbs your video is 9 minutes long.
My brother “get a lever. Open the bead slightly. Pour it in. Close it up. Hit it with C02. Bye” (20 seconds at best)
@@ClintGibbs I don’t want to be a jerk- I’m too sober for that. But, I’m stuck somewhere in NY and I have never had to do this. I didn’t know you were showing different ways- For all I knew it was all one step after another. And I don’t have time for that. I’m 3k miles from home and about 25 miles from a bike shop. I need to know now how to do it. Not in 9 minutes. Now.
And my brother told me. So, thank you for the video.
Sealant is stupid, it's a result of a poor design.