When you've pushed the plunger all the way to the bottom, and there's still some sealant in the tube at the bottom, pull the plunger all the way out and then put it back in - that will create an air pocket between the plunger and the sealant at the other end, and hopefully allow you to plunge until the tube is empty, avoiding most of the mess when removing the injector tube afterwards - and I'd put a piece of shop towel around the base, just to soak up anything that might spill out.
That's what I do too. After I wait for couple seconds and turn the wheel half a turn(valve from bottom to top) - wait couple seconds and remove the syringe. all the excess sealant runs to the hose of the syringe.
I have a syringe whose straw is small enough to slide inside the valve stem. I insert the straw into the sealant bottle and draw back the plunger to fill it. There is no mess using this method and no sealant gets on the threads of the valve core. Of course, breaking the bead allows a more thorough and visual indication of the condition of your tire. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Clint for putting this video on her so I could insert Stans tubeless sealant by myself I love going to TH-cam to learn how to repair something in my home on my motorcycle & on my bicycle. Your instructional video was easy to understand and follow. I learn best by listening to verbal instructions while seeing it visually also. Your awesome!
Very helpful info here. I should've watched this video before adding sealant to my tubeless tires for the frist time this morning. I used Stan's injector, but knew no better than to fill it with sealant before plugging it into the valve and positioning it like you did. Took me a bit of time to clean up the mess on the garage floor...
Fantastic video! I've had my bike for 9 months and covered 1100km with numerous rim dings. I've never checked the sealant level and never had a flat! I'll be doing it imminently though as I will be getting a lot of riding in over the Christmas period!
You wait for a flat then …. It’s coming!!! OH …. Make sure you check each 3 months too lmfao 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 so you now have FOUR SCHEDULED “SERVICE FLATS” now with this IDIOTIC IDEA !!!!!
Only need to break the bead for 4 to 6 spokes worth on either side of the valve, you'll be able to see how much sealant is left easy enough, and the tire holds its shape more consistently avoiding spills. When adding from the big bottle just go direct to the tire and visually look for the puddle in the tire to be about 4 spokes wide. Also a great time to service the valve and clean out any sealant that may be coagulating on inside/bottom of the valve to keep inflating and adjusting pressure smooth and consistent. The injector/syringe seems like a good idea, but you loose the ability to visually inspect the quality of remaining sealant and amount, the remove the watery substance you mentioned, or service the valve (sticking a poky device into the valve with the core removed is a fool's errand and will only push your clog to the inside surface of the valve which in turn only builds a bigger clog faster).
Top tip. A small length of sram 1x 11 xx1 chain is the right size to use to remove a valve core. I don’t bother with the plunger in the syringe. Take out the valve core put on the syringe kink the tube fill syringe with sealant unkink and it flows on its own.
Mine lasts the life of the tire or if the tire needs to be removed for some reason . I also use an off brand sealant used for motos and atvs which doesnt dry out and is cheap which is half the cost of a product like stans . I do use a bit more sealant than normal . It has sealed a separating side wall which weeps a bit and some small punctures on the tread area . The front tire is newer and is still in good shape . The rear tire is 9 months old with a lot of miles . My sealant is goopy so it will not slosh around like the thinner stans . I ride mostly in a high desert location with lots of rocky sections .
I use the syringe method. It was hell to get the tire seated onto the bead the first time so I didn’t want to face that nightmare again. Also, have some spare valve cores handy. I broke a valve core because I was a little ham-fisted with screwing it back on.
I twisted my rear on my klr, stretched the stem, instant full flat.. I used what I had, basically food stuff. Used a hand sanitizer bottle to pump in my "recipe " (maybe 2 tbls) to get "home".. tire wouldn't hold air before I did it, it's now 1 year later & still fine. I'll use my recipe over ANY product sold (and I can eat it if I had to!)
when adding sealant the air passed out cuz you removed the core, i want to know if the bead of the tire still setted to the rim if i do the inject method
Because it has really large spheres, Stan's says that their Race Sealant (great stuff!) cannot be added through the valve with a syringe or bottle. They also say that Race Sealant needs to be renewed/replaced every 2 months. Another way to check sealant is to pull the valve core and use a small wire tie or an Orange Seal "dipstick" to see if any liquid is present.
Nice video's ! Just some lil advice if you want to fill with the injector spill free, you dont use the plunger, just lift the injector and let gravity do the filling, when you remove the injector after its all poured in, you wont spill... (almost nothing :-))
Very useful video thanks. I’ve tried using the syringe and ended up with as much sealant on the floor as in the tyre, think I’ll pop the tyre off next time as it looks a lot less hassle than I thought it might be.
I prefer not to break the bead and just inject sealant through the valve. Quicker and easier since you don't need to reseat the bead. Also you should consider drawing the sealant directly from the bottle using the syringe. It doesn't drip out due to air pressure. I do this all the time and it is a clean easy way to do it.
@@ClintGibbs I think re-seating the bead can be challenging for some of us. Any suggestions on a floor pump you prefer (as most of us lack a shop compressor)?
@@paulbigbee Many pump manufacturers have pumps with integrated high pressure air cylinders to help seat tubeless tires. Topeak Joeblow booster is one. Alternatively, you can buy a stand-alone high pressure pump cylinder that you can inflate using your existing floor pump. Airshot makes one.
Hey, thx for the video and Nice and clear instructions. And would like to add a little something, as i am from Belgium the weather is all different here(lots of Rain) and as long as i dont have a puncture i'm good for at least 6 months and only check every 3 months or before a big event or trip, i completely clean the tyre once every year. Only used 3 brands SO far (shwalbe, stans and cactus) the cactus one drys UP the fastest
My problem is that my tire valve is tiny, and i do mean tiny, so even tire sealant for bikes sprays everywhere sadly. Even the smaller of the 2 sizes included on mine, is to big. Are there perhaps special kinds of sealants that has like tiny tiny nozzles ? Would be awesome if there was such a thing, since my home village is littered with pieces of glass, thorns, sharp stones and very rough tarmac sadly, a tire fixers dream.
My sealant is Stanse and was added 14 months ago and I can still hear the splash. I ride once a week, not any week and it is cool and humid here. I guess I'll postpone until I can no longer hear the splash. I always carry an emergency spare tube in case it fails.
Thanks for the video. I haven't ever cleaned my sealant out and a shop set the tires up for me. IDK what kind they used and my front tire doesn't seem to be holding air. Is there a rule about mixing different kinds of sealant or is it ok to do that?
Thanks for the useful content but don't you need to pump up the tyre really quickly before adding the sealant to make sure it will sit on the rim properly?
The video mentions to soak up and replace sealant if it has become too watery. Should the stuff that has caked on to the tire be removed/cleaned off as well? Is this ever necessary? Also, with so many options, are there specific brands that are just better.
I’ve always used Stan’s and it has worked well for me so I have not tried other brands. As far as the caking around the tire, that actually helps better seal the tire. If it gets excessive you can scrape some off but I never do.
With an all Stans setup (tape + valve stems), what kind of leak rate do you experience day to day? I recently changed over from a factory tape job to a double wrap of Stan's tape, Stan's sealant, and Stan's valve stems, and still leak 3 to 5 psig per day. Kind of disappointing to have to keep adding pressure every day.
I would NEVER take the tyre off unless it was absolutely necessary because the sealant had failed to repair the puncture. I suck the sealant from the bottle with a measured syringe, remove the valve core and inject the sealant into the valve stem. Takes about 5 minutes to do both tyres. My wheels are 700x40 and I inject 30ml every 3 months. How can popping the bead and removing the tyre be ‘less messy’?
Just the simple fact that you can get a little bit of spillage when removing the syringe. Not a big deal but popping the beat off I typically get no spillage. And, like I said the video, I get to check the quality of the sealant and to see if any rubber balls are formed.
I agree that which method is less messy is debatable. However popping a bead off and looking at the inside of the tire is a good practice in my opinion and it really shouldn't be difficult to reseat a tire on a single bead. I will say that on tubeless road and tight fitting cyclocross tires I like to add sealant through the valve but it's circumstantial. Saying "I would NEVER" just shows you've had a very specific set of circumstances in your experience, one day you "might" have a massive amount of dried sealant built up in your tire if you never check.
Of course YMMV but I have had such struggles in the past getting a bead to seat b/c of super tight tire/wheel combinations that I am loath to pop the bead if I don't have too. I don't care about any excess weight from sealant build up, and have never been "infested" with the "Stanimals"... :)
@@mattkavanaugh5623 "your mileage may vary" is a very reasonable thing to say in this situation. I don't get why a tight bead is hard to seat, that should make it easier in my mind but thats just me. There have been many times I've unseated a customers tire to inspect a flat and found a ball of sealant because they just keep adding without checking. I think it's mostly people that travel a lot and let their tires cook in the sun but either way I'd rather know than not know. Now that I don't work in a shop my rule of thumb is that if you're going to run tubeless then you should set it up yourself and know the system. How you take care of it is up to you. As long as you're riding and having fun then that works for me.
When using a syringe to add sealant, turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the top before removing the syringe. That avoids the mess you show in the video.
Hi Clint! Thanks for the video! I just used your method of unseating one side, checking the inside and reseating it using a regular Lezyne floor pump! Just pump fast and rigorously to hear the "pop". My question is mixing different sealant brands (Stan's vs orange vs muc off) in a tire?
I had a question about compatability ... Bought the bike a year ago and have no idea what kind of sealant was in there . If it's dry then is there a problem changing brands ? If not dry I'm guessing I should clean it all out first ? Again great job on the video. Thanks.
How did you reseat the bead on that tire with a regular pump? I tried for over an hour with mine and was never so mad at bicycle tech in my 25 years of bike love haha finally got my buddy to use his air compressor on it to reseat the bead
If you only break one bead it’s a lot easier to reset. You can also use a CO2 cartridge but you need to be careful and make sure all the sealant is at the bottom and the valve stem is at the top.
Hello quick question. On a bike that has tubeless tires XC 29er would it be possible to switch to tubes? Just got a new bike and am going to give this bike to my nephew. Hopefully can swap to tubes for him. Less hassle. Thanks
Absolutely. You just need to take out the valve stem from the hole. It’s actually a good idea to carry a tube when you’re riding with tubeless tires in case you get a puncture that does not seal and you don’t have plugs.
Wait, wait, wait!!! You broke the bead but the video showed you pumping the tire back up with a standard hand pump. How did you make that happen? I always need to use the air compressor after breaking the bead. Sorry, I’m new to this tubeless thing (old school and getting back into biking). Thanks.
I had mine professionally installed over 1 year ago I bought all the tools to do it myself but my tire is so hard to take off any suggestions on what might have happened? I can't get the tire to pop off the rim.
Hey Clint - thanks for the great videos! They have helped me on more than many occasions! Had a weird flat after the end my last ride which I noticed while I was washing the bike and sure enough, all the sealant had dried up after only 2 months, and thanks to this video I saved myself some trouble and used a syringe to inject 2oz simple and done. BTW, next time you are in Pisgah you should organize a fan group ride!
@@ClintGibbs I just got an xcaliber 9 a few months ago and it was supposed to be "tubeless ready" (what the salesman told me), I've never had tubeless before but the front tire was going completely flat after 2 days of sitting inside. Rear tire holds pressure a little longer (about 4 days). I found that odd so I rode to the shop about 10 miles and they added sealant to the front tire only.. Do you think I need more sealant in the rear as well? I haven't done trail riding yet just some gravel and dirt road stuff with my nephew so I haven't done any crazy things on this bike yet lol 🤦♂️ Thanks
Oh so you remove the bead from the rim and then you install back without cleaning the bead??? I thought that was not a good practice. Can you explain a little bit more. Thanks for the help in advance.
If the sealant holds the first time then no, you don't need to patch it. But if air is leaking out slowly or the sealant intermittently seals the whole, then yes, I recommend using a glue-On inner tube patch and patching from inside the tire.
I just got a new bike and the dealership installed sealant in the tire before I took delivery. If the bike isnt ridden on a regular basis would it be of any benefit to spin the tires on occasion to keep an even coating of sealant on the inside or doesnt it matter ?
what is the purpose of the sealant because back in the day mountain bikes didnt need the sealant. I had a diamondback response 29er didnt need any sealant.
So I got my first flat today after having my bike for about 3 weeks. I want to go tubeless but have seen some videos where people put the sealant inside the tube and then run it that way. What is your opinion putting sealant in the tube as oppose to not having a tube and putting sealant inside the tire and rim>
Just undo one bead of the tire (you don’t even need to unseat the entire bead) and pull them out. This is also the best way to check the levels of current sealant
I tried the “break bead” method but the tire was glued to the carbon rim with sealant. Is this normal? What’s the Best way to unglue so that tire levers can be used?
I’ve never encountered a tire that was so stuck to the rim you could not push it off with both thumbs. If it’s that stuck I would leave it in the sun for an hour and then just try to push hard with both thumbs and then unseat it all the way around the rim.
@@ClintGibbs I'll try the heat (sun) method next time. Could it be that the hard sealant, on the inside of the rim, formed a hardened ridge, making it extremely difficult to push tire off the rim? Also, I checked my records and the sealant has been in the tire for 17 months. Could that be part of the problem? (This is my first ever tubules setup, so I'm learning.) Thanks for your very helpful video!
@@stevec.5273 I’m not saying that couldn’t happen but I’ve never seen that before. I have a feeling it’s just really dried your tire in to the channel of the bead.
Very helpful video. Thanks. I've noticed at least for me, when using the bottle or injector sometimes the sealant actually seals up before all the sealant has been injected into the tire. Any suggestions, other than breaking the tire bead? Thanks
@@ClintGibbs Using the race sealant. So that answers my question. If you happen to know, what is the difference between the two? Maybe I should just use the regular, I wasn't paying much attention when I purchased my 32oz bottle.
I had the same problem a few weeks back. I pulled the valve core to add more sealant and noticed the valve core had gummed up a bit with sealant. I used a valve core from a discarded tube to replace it and did not add sealant. I aired up to pressure and it has held with very small normal loss since. Problem was with the valve core being gummed up and not allowing a good seal when hand tightening after regular pressure topping off. That being said, I likely need to add a bit of sealant to that wheel now after 6 months of use.
I flip my bike to oil the fork seals about every three days and the stem always turn to six o'clock, is this a bad idea because of filling the stem with sealant, I've only been doing this for three months
You are awesome. I was just wondering this, I'm on about 3 months with my first tubeless and was noticing some liquid coming through the tire in certain areas. Thanks Clint.
I just decided that I would have an annual check of sealant on all tubeless tires because I flatted on a ride and discovered there was no sealant. Okay, maybe biannual....
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
When you've pushed the plunger all the way to the bottom, and there's still some sealant in the tube at the bottom, pull the plunger all the way out and then put it back in - that will create an air pocket between the plunger and the sealant at the other end, and hopefully allow you to plunge until the tube is empty, avoiding most of the mess when removing the injector tube afterwards - and I'd put a piece of shop towel around the base, just to soak up anything that might spill out.
That's what I do too. After I wait for couple seconds and turn the wheel half a turn(valve from bottom to top) - wait couple seconds and remove the syringe. all the excess sealant runs to the hose of the syringe.
I have a syringe whose straw is small enough to slide inside the valve stem. I insert the straw into the sealant bottle and draw back the plunger to fill it. There is no mess using this method and no sealant gets on the threads of the valve core. Of course, breaking the bead allows a more thorough and visual indication of the condition of your tire. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Clint for putting this video on her so I could insert Stans tubeless sealant by myself I love going to TH-cam to learn how to repair something in my home on my motorcycle & on my bicycle. Your instructional video was easy to understand and follow. I learn best by listening to verbal instructions while seeing it visually also. Your awesome!
Very helpful info here. I should've watched this video before adding sealant to my tubeless tires for the frist time this morning. I used Stan's injector, but knew no better than to fill it with sealant before plugging it into the valve and positioning it like you did. Took me a bit of time to clean up the mess on the garage floor...
Fantastic video! I've had my bike for 9 months and covered 1100km with numerous rim dings. I've never checked the sealant level and never had a flat! I'll be doing it imminently though as I will be getting a lot of riding in over the Christmas period!
You wait for a flat then …. It’s coming!!! OH …. Make sure you check each 3 months too lmfao 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 so you now have FOUR SCHEDULED “SERVICE FLATS” now with this IDIOTIC IDEA !!!!!
Only need to break the bead for 4 to 6 spokes worth on either side of the valve, you'll be able to see how much sealant is left easy enough, and the tire holds its shape more consistently avoiding spills. When adding from the big bottle just go direct to the tire and visually look for the puddle in the tire to be about 4 spokes wide. Also a great time to service the valve and clean out any sealant that may be coagulating on inside/bottom of the valve to keep inflating and adjusting pressure smooth and consistent. The injector/syringe seems like a good idea, but you loose the ability to visually inspect the quality of remaining sealant and amount, the remove the watery substance you mentioned, or service the valve (sticking a poky device into the valve with the core removed is a fool's errand and will only push your clog to the inside surface of the valve which in turn only builds a bigger clog faster).
To bring the tire off the rim in adding sealant it is easier to remove it along the entire rim
crankbrothers cobalt owner's trying to fill up to 4 spokes wide:
@@mateus-996 ... someone... someone is still using those....???
Top tip. A small length of sram 1x 11 xx1 chain is the right size to use to remove a valve core.
I don’t bother with the plunger in the syringe.
Take out the valve core put on the syringe kink the tube fill syringe with sealant unkink and it flows on its own.
Thanks, this was exactly what I was looking for. Great info with no fluf , ummms or stupidity. Excellent job.
Mine lasts the life of the tire or if the tire needs to be removed for some reason . I also use an off brand sealant used for motos and atvs which doesnt dry out and is cheap which is half the cost of a product like stans . I do use a bit more sealant than normal . It has sealed a separating side wall which weeps a bit and some small punctures on the tread area . The front tire is newer and is still in good shape . The rear tire is 9 months old with a lot of miles . My sealant is goopy so it will not slosh around like the thinner stans . I ride mostly in a high desert location with lots of rocky sections .
Any chance you can name the product?
@@michaelferguson7371 Bell tire sealant
I use the syringe method. It was hell to get the tire seated onto the bead the first time so I didn’t want to face that nightmare again. Also, have some spare valve cores handy. I broke a valve core because I was a little ham-fisted with screwing it back on.
I twisted my rear on my klr, stretched the stem, instant full flat.. I used what I had, basically food stuff. Used a hand sanitizer bottle to pump in my "recipe " (maybe 2 tbls) to get "home".. tire wouldn't hold air before I did it, it's now 1 year later & still fine. I'll use my recipe over ANY product sold (and I can eat it if I had to!)
The stans 2oz little bottle fits perfect with valve core removed. No hose needed.
when adding sealant the air passed out cuz you removed the core, i want to know if the bead of the tire still setted to the rim if i do the inject method
Because it has really large spheres, Stan's says that their Race Sealant (great stuff!) cannot be added through the valve with a syringe or bottle. They also say that Race Sealant needs to be renewed/replaced every 2 months. Another way to check sealant is to pull the valve core and use a small wire tie or an Orange Seal "dipstick" to see if any liquid is present.
Took me almost an hour to get my gravel tire bead to seal I would never pop the bead to check my sealant so I always use the plunger.
Nice video's !
Just some lil advice if you want to fill with the injector spill free, you dont use the plunger, just lift the injector and let gravity do the filling, when you remove the injector after its all poured in, you wont spill... (almost nothing :-))
Very useful video thanks. I’ve tried using the syringe and ended up with as much sealant on the floor as in the tyre, think I’ll pop the tyre off next time as it looks a lot less hassle than I thought it might be.
Just want to say thank you, your video helped me a lot! Cheers from Canada
I prefer not to break the bead and just inject sealant through the valve. Quicker and easier since you don't need to reseat the bead. Also you should consider drawing the sealant directly from the bottle using the syringe. It doesn't drip out due to air pressure. I do this all the time and it is a clean easy way to do it.
Thanks
@@ClintGibbs I think re-seating the bead can be challenging for some of us. Any suggestions on a floor pump you prefer (as most of us lack a shop compressor)?
Every time I've broken only one bead, I've been able to air up the tire with a normal floor pump.
@Nick - Me too.
@@paulbigbee Many pump manufacturers have pumps with integrated high pressure air cylinders to help seat tubeless tires. Topeak Joeblow booster is one. Alternatively, you can buy a stand-alone high pressure pump cylinder that you can inflate using your existing floor pump. Airshot makes one.
Hey, thx for the video and Nice and clear instructions.
And would like to add a little something, as i am from Belgium the weather is all different here(lots of Rain) and as long as i dont have a puncture i'm good for at least 6 months and only check every 3 months or before a big event or trip, i completely clean the tyre once every year. Only used 3 brands SO far (shwalbe, stans and cactus) the cactus one drys UP the fastest
Thanks for the info!
Checked my Stans after a year and a half and it still didn’t need topping up!
6:24 I'm looking for the video on how to pour seal into the valve using the little bottle.
My problem is that my tire valve is tiny, and i do mean tiny, so even tire sealant for bikes sprays everywhere sadly.
Even the smaller of the 2 sizes included on mine, is to big.
Are there perhaps special kinds of sealants that has like tiny tiny nozzles ?
Would be awesome if there was such a thing, since my home village is littered with pieces of glass, thorns, sharp stones and very rough tarmac sadly, a tire fixers dream.
If your tires are tubeless, just get some Stan’s valve stems.
Just take care not damaging the rim tape when using tire levers.
My sealant is Stanse and was added 14 months ago and I can still hear the splash. I ride once a week, not any week and it is cool and humid here. I guess I'll postpone until I can no longer hear the splash. I always carry an emergency spare tube in case it fails.
Thanks for the video. I haven't ever cleaned my sealant out and a shop set the tires up for me. IDK what kind they used and my front tire doesn't seem to be holding air. Is there a rule about mixing different kinds of sealant or is it ok to do that?
FYI- isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle is great to clean out valve cores.
Invert the be line type tread as extra interior next below new rubber
Thank you for a great and informative video. It cleared lot of my questions.
Thanks for the useful content but don't you need to pump up the tyre really quickly before adding the sealant to make sure it will sit on the rim properly?
There are different ways to do it. That is one way to do it if you are just going to remove the valve core and add sealant through the valve stem.
Thanks for telling us how much fluid to install.
Very helpful. I'm relatively new to MTB maintenance and don't own a bike stand. Any recommendations for good and inexpensive ones?
Another great video full of personal best-practice advice that coincides 100% with my own experience. That’s comforting! Thanks so much!
Have you seen the new park tool syringe to fill up tyres tsi-1
I just bought a tubless ready hardtail, need to add the sealant ,so can I insure beading of tire with a loor pump?
The video mentions to soak up and replace sealant if it has become too watery. Should the stuff that has caked on to the tire be removed/cleaned off as well? Is this ever necessary? Also, with so many options, are there specific brands that are just better.
I’ve always used Stan’s and it has worked well for me so I have not tried other brands. As far as the caking around the tire, that actually helps better seal the tire. If it gets excessive you can scrape some off but I never do.
With an all Stans setup (tape + valve stems), what kind of leak rate do you experience day to day? I recently changed over from a factory tape job to a double wrap of Stan's tape, Stan's sealant, and Stan's valve stems, and still leak 3 to 5 psig per day. Kind of disappointing to have to keep adding pressure every day.
Thats not good. I have Stans sealent and no or very very little pressure loss over 5 months time
Great vid Clint! And thanks for the reminder to check my sealant….
I would NEVER take the tyre off unless it was absolutely necessary because the sealant had failed to repair the puncture. I suck the sealant from the bottle with a measured syringe, remove the valve core and inject the sealant into the valve stem. Takes about 5 minutes to do both tyres. My wheels are 700x40 and I inject 30ml every 3 months. How can popping the bead and removing the tyre be ‘less messy’?
Just the simple fact that you can get a little bit of spillage when removing the syringe. Not a big deal but popping the beat off I typically get no spillage. And, like I said the video, I get to check the quality of the sealant and to see if any rubber balls are formed.
I agree that which method is less messy is debatable. However popping a bead off and looking at the inside of the tire is a good practice in my opinion and it really shouldn't be difficult to reseat a tire on a single bead. I will say that on tubeless road and tight fitting cyclocross tires I like to add sealant through the valve but it's circumstantial. Saying "I would NEVER" just shows you've had a very specific set of circumstances in your experience, one day you "might" have a massive amount of dried sealant built up in your tire if you never check.
Of course YMMV but I have had such struggles in the past getting a bead to seat b/c of super tight tire/wheel combinations that I am loath to pop the bead if I don't have too. I don't care about any excess weight from sealant build up, and have never been "infested" with the "Stanimals"... :)
@@mattkavanaugh5623 "your mileage may vary" is a very reasonable thing to say in this situation. I don't get why a tight bead is hard to seat, that should make it easier in my mind but thats just me. There have been many times I've unseated a customers tire to inspect a flat and found a ball of sealant because they just keep adding without checking. I think it's mostly people that travel a lot and let their tires cook in the sun but either way I'd rather know than not know. Now that I don't work in a shop my rule of thumb is that if you're going to run tubeless then you should set it up yourself and know the system. How you take care of it is up to you. As long as you're riding and having fun then that works for me.
When using a syringe to add sealant, turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the top before removing the syringe. That avoids the mess you show in the video.
Thanks for sharing. Good information and will check the sealant after the ride today.
Hi Clint! Thanks for the video! I just used your method of unseating one side, checking the inside and reseating it using a regular Lezyne floor pump! Just pump fast and rigorously to hear the "pop".
My question is mixing different sealant brands (Stan's vs orange vs muc off) in a tire?
I've not done this, but I've heard industry professionals recommend not mixing brands. But you can mix stans race sealant and regular stans sealant
Thanks dude I’m gonna buy some Stan’s and try this today. Appreciate it
What happened to the link showing how to use the bottle instead of the syringe?
It’s there now
I had a question about compatability ... Bought the bike a year ago and have no idea what kind of sealant was in there . If it's dry then is there a problem changing brands ? If not dry I'm guessing I should clean it all out first ?
Again great job on the video. Thanks.
Probably not a big deal but if the original sealant has dried up I think you can add whatever kind you want.
How did you reseat the bead on that tire with a regular pump? I tried for over an hour with mine and was never so mad at bicycle tech in my 25 years of bike love haha finally got my buddy to use his air compressor on it to reseat the bead
If you only break one bead it’s a lot easier to reset. You can also use a CO2 cartridge but you need to be careful and make sure all the sealant is at the bottom and the valve stem is at the top.
Hello quick question. On a bike that has tubeless tires XC 29er would it be possible to switch to tubes? Just got a new bike and am going to give this bike to my nephew. Hopefully can swap to tubes for him. Less hassle. Thanks
Absolutely. You just need to take out the valve stem from the hole. It’s actually a good idea to carry a tube when you’re riding with tubeless tires in case you get a puncture that does not seal and you don’t have plugs.
Will the Stans Darts react with Muc-off sealent properly or do I need to switch it out?
I honestly don’t know and I’ve not tried it. My gut feeling says yes.
How much sealant for a 20x2.40 tire ? Would it be too bad if I out more than recommended ? I know it will cause extra weight.
It’s just extra weight, no other negative issues.
Great video! Very clear info and right to the point! Thank you
Thanks for the video! Can you ever add too much sealant to a tire?
Perhaps. You're adding weight, and if you add way too much I would think you would affect the ride quality
Wait, wait, wait!!! You broke the bead but the video showed you pumping the tire back up with a standard hand pump. How did you make that happen? I always need to use the air compressor after breaking the bead. Sorry, I’m new to this tubeless thing (old school and getting back into biking). Thanks.
Often times if you only break one bead you can pump it back up with a standard floor pump. If that doesn’t work then it’s off to the air compressor.
@@ClintGibbs You can put tape around the tire and rim to hold the tire close and than pump removing the tape after your done of course.
I had mine professionally installed over 1 year ago I bought all the tools to do it myself but my tire is so hard to take off any suggestions on what might have happened? I can't get the tire to pop off the rim.
Are you able to at least break the bead? Once you do, make sure you hold the bead down in the middle of the rim as you get the rest of it off.
cushcore makes this so much more complex. the Race sealant won't fit thru the valve, so I can only go for the bead method...
What's the point of those little Stans bottles? Why not just get the big bottle?
Great video. Pretty much all you need to know.
Hey Clint - thanks for the great videos! They have helped me on more than many occasions! Had a weird flat after the end my last ride which I noticed while I was washing the bike and sure enough, all the sealant had dried up after only 2 months, and thanks to this video I saved myself some trouble and used a syringe to inject 2oz simple and done.
BTW, next time you are in Pisgah you should organize a fan group ride!
I'll actually be in Pisgah most likely Sunday and Monday.
@@ClintGibbs I just got an xcaliber 9 a few months ago and it was supposed to be "tubeless ready" (what the salesman told me), I've never had tubeless before but the front tire was going completely flat after 2 days of sitting inside. Rear tire holds pressure a little longer (about 4 days). I found that odd so I rode to the shop about 10 miles and they added sealant to the front tire only.. Do you think I need more sealant in the rear as well? I haven't done trail riding yet just some gravel and dirt road stuff with my nephew so I haven't done any crazy things on this bike yet lol 🤦♂️
Thanks
@@michaelrowe5896 you should have sealant in both tires
Quick question. Not sure what sealant was used initially on my bike, can you mix sealants? Thanks!
I think it’s best to not mix different brands. You can mix Stans race sealant with their regular sealant.
Oh so you remove the bead from the rim and then you install back without cleaning the bead??? I thought that was not a good practice. Can you explain a little bit more. Thanks for the help in advance.
I'll clean the bead from time to time if it looks bad but usually it's not necessary.
@@ClintGibbs Awesome! Appreciated man....
Do suggest patching the cut once you get home?
If the sealant holds the first time then no, you don't need to patch it. But if air is leaking out slowly or the sealant intermittently seals the whole, then yes, I recommend using a glue-On inner tube patch and patching from inside the tire.
My icycle stoor for 2 years. Sealant was still fine?
Great video, buddy!
Informative and clearly explained. Thank you.
I just got a new bike and the dealership installed sealant in the tire before I took delivery. If the bike isnt ridden on a regular basis would it be of any benefit to spin the tires on occasion to keep an even coating of sealant on the inside or doesnt it matter ?
Doesn’t really matter. Might actually help it last longer by pooling together in one spot. Sealant will dry out in a few months of use.
Doesn't the internal pressure of the tire blow back on the sealant?
what is the purpose of the sealant because back in the day mountain bikes didnt need the sealant.
I had a diamondback response 29er didnt need any sealant.
Seals up punctures. Can’t remember the last time I had a flat tire on the trail.
@@ClintGibbs thanks
Very helpful! Appreciate the video assist. :)
So I got my first flat today after having my bike for about 3 weeks. I want to go tubeless but have seen some videos where people put the sealant inside the tube and then run it that way. What is your opinion putting sealant in the tube as oppose to not having a tube and putting sealant inside the tire and rim>
You can do that but you are losing other benefits of tubeless as in better tire performance and lower weight.
is "stans" the same as schwalbe "doc blue?" the liquid looks the same and even the bottle
It could be. I know that Giant releases their own sealant but I think it's just a Stan's bottle with a different label
What should you do if you can hear rubber balls in the tire? My front wheel sounds like it has sand in it.
Just undo one bead of the tire (you don’t even need to unseat the entire bead) and pull them out. This is also the best way to check the levels of current sealant
@@ClintGibbs Thanks Clint, your video is excellent!
If there is a lot of old sealant is it better to get all of it off from the tire and rim?
No. Just let the wheel be still for 5 minutes and most of the old sealant will pool in the tire. Then get it out if it’s brown or watery.
Tubless adopters... saves weight bro!
Sealant... secretly coating tyres to more than an inner tubes thickness.
Thank you. Excellent video
I tried the “break bead” method but the tire was glued to the carbon rim with sealant. Is this normal? What’s the Best way to unglue so that tire levers can be used?
I’ve never encountered a tire that was so stuck to the rim you could not push it off with both thumbs. If it’s that stuck I would leave it in the sun for an hour and then just try to push hard with both thumbs and then unseat it all the way around the rim.
@@ClintGibbs I'll try the heat (sun) method next time. Could it be that the hard sealant, on the inside of the rim, formed a hardened ridge, making it extremely difficult to push tire off the rim? Also, I checked my records and the sealant has been in the tire for 17 months. Could that be part of the problem? (This is my first ever tubules setup, so I'm learning.) Thanks for your very helpful video!
@@stevec.5273 I’m not saying that couldn’t happen but I’ve never seen that before. I have a feeling it’s just really dried your tire in to the channel of the bead.
Casually breaks and reinstalls tire bead with the thumb strength of 1,000 men…
great video very helpful and imformative
why do i feel guilty now.....my sealant is over 1 1/2 old. never checked it. rhuh rho
2 years here 🤣. And I’ve had tire blow outs on hard turns... still no sealant top up. Maybe this weekend I’ll check it!
VERY helpful, thank you!
Very helpful video, thank you 😊
Best video. Thank you Sir!
Very helpful video. Thanks. I've noticed at least for me, when using the bottle or injector sometimes the sealant actually seals up before all the sealant has been injected into the tire. Any suggestions, other than breaking the tire bead? Thanks
Are you using the regular sealant or the race sealant? The race sealant cannot be used with the injector.
@@ClintGibbs Using the race sealant. So that answers my question. If you happen to know, what is the difference between the two? Maybe I should just use the regular, I wasn't paying much attention when I purchased my 32oz bottle.
@@jaysanzo3382 race sealant is much thicker. Seals better but is harder to work with.
@@ClintGibbs Thank you so much.
How much sealant do you add for 27.5" tires?
For tires around 2.3 I would use 2 scoops.
@@ClintGibbs each scoop was 2oz?
I see you didn't use a compressor to pump up the tire...so it is,'t always necessary....?
Not always necessary, especially if one bead is already seated.
Thank you.
When injecting the fluid, rotate your value to 4 or 8 o’clock and you don’t spill anything….and you don’t have to take your tire off….
does the injector work with the stans race sealant which is thicker
It does not, at least that’s what Stan’s says. Knowing how thick it is, I would go with what they say.
when you say to measure it properly and then proceed to measure it improperly in ounces. Properly you measure in ml.
My gravel bike is losing a fair amount of pressure in the rear tire after just a day lately, could this possibly be the reason?
Possibly, but I have a maxxis rambler on the front of my gravel bike that simply won't hold air. I need to shake it around but haven't made time yet.
I had the same problem a few weeks back. I pulled the valve core to add more sealant and noticed the valve core had gummed up a bit with sealant. I used a valve core from a discarded tube to replace it and did not add sealant. I aired up to pressure and it has held with very small normal loss since. Problem was with the valve core being gummed up and not allowing a good seal when hand tightening after regular pressure topping off. That being said, I likely need to add a bit of sealant to that wheel now after 6 months of use.
@@awesomexistence soak that gummed up valve core in a little WD-40 and that sealant will come right off.
@@michaelglidewell1524 excellent! Both great ideas thanks. My tires are ramblers too. Makes me wonder.
A friend of mine also has a rambler and has the same issue. Could be the first Maxxis tire I've had issues with!
Solid video man 🙏💯
I flip my bike to oil the fork seals about every three days and the stem always turn to six o'clock, is this a bad idea because of filling the stem with sealant, I've only been doing this for three months
I don't think so because the sealant is going to drop down in the tire and not go into the valve stem.
@@ClintGibbs I haven't talked to anyone about it and when this vid came out it reminded me. Thanks Clint, you're still the best
Thanks!
Watery sealant is why I try to avoid using soapy water to seal the tire.
Good video. Thanks!
Do I need a special tire ?
You will need a tubeless ready tire, which most of them today are.
Well done.
Don’t unseat your tire unless you have to. Just use the syringe.
Very useful video!!! 👌
You are awesome. I was just wondering this, I'm on about 3 months with my first tubeless and was noticing some liquid coming through the tire in certain areas. Thanks Clint.
How often do you ride?
@@GunSlingerCal Once a week usually and recently got back from a weekend MTB trip to Oregon.
I just decided that I would have an annual check of sealant on all tubeless tires because I flatted on a ride and discovered there was no sealant. Okay, maybe biannual....
Tubeless is over-rated. Just fit a good latex tube and be done... no checking, refilling, or mucking about with messy sealant.
The injectors sold on Amazon are junky..Any proven brand names?
The Stan’s one I use has worked well for years
When & How to Add Tire Sealant.
Never!
Tubes4Life!