Should You Put Tire Sealant in Tubes?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2022
- Should you add tire sealant to bike tubes to seal punctures? That's what we will discuss in this video.
Check out my blog: www.everyday-explorer.com/
Follow me on Instagram: @clintg37
To support the channel: / clintg
People often ask me how I ship bikes. I use Bikeflights. Click here for a link:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
Video gear I use
Cameras
Sony A7iv: amzn.to/3IYvSPy
Canon EOS-R: amzn.to/3oXPid0
Sony ZV-1: amzn.to/3aJwFnL
GoPro Hero 9: amzn.to/3jDEi3v
GoPro Hero 10: amzn.to/3lRlH5b
GoPro Media Mod for Hero 9: amzn.to/39ZrlNS
Mics
Rode SmartLav+: amzn.to/3jrIvqI
Rode SmartLav TRS Adaper: amzn.to/3p54mpi
Rode Wireless Go: amzn.to/36S8hiH
Edutige ETM-001: amzn.to/36NztPG
Edutige ETM-001 windscreen: amzn.to/3cPjFQh
Edutige ETM-001 90 adapter: amzn.to/3tvmyvD
Mounts & Tripods
K-Edge GoPro Mount: amzn.to/3tDVlqo
GoPro Chesty: amzn.to/3oYZsKr
Ulanzi selfie stick/tripod: amzn.to/2MHNEis
GoPro Shorty selfie stick/tripod: amzn.to/2OgWWm0
Velbon EX-630 tripod: amzn.to/3tDts1Z
Lights
Neewer Lights: amzn.to/36QaqM3
Accessories
Alloy GoPro thumb screws: amzn.to/3tCAKTC
LowePro Tahoe BP150 camera bag: amzn.to/3aHrK6P
Sony ZV-1 extra batties:amzn.to/3cRlz30
Anker SD card reader: amzn.to/3cP13jm
Peak Design camera strap: amzn.to/3Hps5Kz - กีฬา
![เจ้าผู้เดียว - ดิด คิตตี้ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q0NLCYKBOTo/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been putting Orange Seal Endurance sealant, in the innertubes of my 6 bikes for the last 7 years and I haven't had a single puncture since. I can get my tyres on and off easily anywhere. Sealant inside tubes is the best move I've made in 50 years of cycling.
Did you meet goatheads?
I was on a group ride today, and mentioned that I use Mr Tuffy and tubes then put the sealant inside the tubes. They told me it was stupid, further on in the ride 3 of the members got flats, I suggested that maybe the idea was not so stupid after all.
I as well have not had a flat in years.
I tried that before going to tubeless due to moving somewhere with tons of goatheads. They barely made a difference. I ride a ton(1200-1500 miles a month) so I expect flats. But I went from 3-4 flats a week to meetings 2.9-3.9 flats a week with sealant in tubes😅 Since going tubeless, I get about a flat a month that needs plugged. No idea how many flats get sealed without me noticing but I regularly stop to pull goatheads out of my tires
@magnumllama400 no kidding. Iam in West Texas and the local bikes stores have shown me the sealant goes off quickly and doesn't work
Hi. how many ml of sealant do you put in each tube? For example for 27.5 size or 29er.
Hello Clint, for my style of riding (74 YO), I think running tubeless is more hassle than it's worth! I do run Slime sealant in my tubes to eliminate sand spur flats. Thanks for pointing out that tubeless systems improve traction and ride quality. That I didn't realize. I think I'll try tubeless on my next bike!
74, still cycling, still trying new things. I hope I’m you 30 years from now.
Tubeless really isn't messy if you're smart about your install.
Update: I converted my HT to tubeless just after commenting here, and, it really does improve traction as well as the "feel" of the ground! I'm sold, my new bike, a Giant TranceX Advanced +0 is tubeless right from the LBS and I wouldn't have it any other way now.
Nice that opinion has changed however with the quality of modern tires. Non UST. Light and sieve like it's indeed in many cases more probablems than use. Especially for high torque ebikes. Until tires and rims, spoke count etc are made properly it's just very troublesome.
A little bit of sealant inside tubular road/cx tires works, too.
Good video Clint. This advice is great for MTB. eBikes really benefit from a good quality sealant like Flat-Out. Rear wheel flats are costly to fix for my customers so I always try and sell them on sealant.
i run full tubeless on my road bike for few years now but for my MTB which I will ride only for 2-3 friendly competitions a year, I don't want to deal with the full tubeless hassle (clean the shit, refill and so on). But I will give it a go with sealant inside the tube and hope I don't get a puncture. I'll carry a spare tube next weekend on the first competition and see how it goes.
As for less pressure, better ride quality, i don't care. All I care is about no puncture for 2-3 hours during the event.
Thanks for the great video!
When I competed 10 years ago, using tubes with sealent inside was the best thing that I did to not get a flat tire.
It is easy to solve if you happen to have a puncture that isn't solved by the sealent and it is a lot easier to fix.
Good vid Clint, just my 2cents, I’ve been on tubeless for 10 yrs. With the wider inner rim widths on modern disc road wheels, I went back to inner tubes with (drumroll please) orange sealant. Note this is in context of roadbike on tarmac, not mtb which definitely need tubeless setup due to off road riding.
I've been riding for about 20 years now, most of the time with tubes, and I can count the flats I've had with my fingers and still have some left... Recently I moved my MTB to tubeless and I can't really see the difference, just more hassle... I can't change my tires as easy, the valve gets stuck very often, and the sealant will dry up, ending with clogs rolling inside my tires... My new bike will continue with tubes, maybe with sealant inside... But a few years ago I tried some tubes sold with sealant for my road bike, one flat with a tiny wire and did not seal, what a mess if sealant, not no mention that I couldn't repair the tube. I hope new sealant is way better... Quite a long history!
I use tannus armour inserts also
I do this all the time, way more puncture resistance (especially with thorns) and nowhere near as finicky as tubeless on road wheels.
Ive had sealant puke out between rim and tire running tubeless,and was not thrilled...............what a frikken mess to put a tube in.
What I don't get is why these questions are still open/up to each rider, of tubed/tubeless, and sealant: whether to add, and if so how much. Clint prefers tubeless, but tubeless comes with a recommendation of 4oz of sealant within each tire, from what I understand, which slows you down. It just seems like there should be a simple formula people can use, describing the amount of sealant to add, based on the tubed vs tubeless set-ups and the likelihood of puncture flats.
I was debating either adding sealant to tubes or going tubeless - however - this video has helped me decide to go tubeless!!! THANK YOU!!! Yesterday I went to the bike shop and returned with all items necessary to make this transition to all four of my mountain bike tires. I've watched some videos on how to convert to tubeless - I think I can do this. Thanks again!!! 👍
Tubeless has some disavantages too.
Durable tubeless tires will weigh more than non-tubeless tires, so in the end I don't know which is heavier. I said "durable" tubeless tires because there are some light tubeless tires that are quite light but they are very expensive, they don't last long and they're a lot more prone to be punctured or to have snake bites.
Also, if you happen to get a small dent on your rim, your tubeless system might get useless or you can lose some air through that dent, even when it is very small.
It happened to me twice and I never used very low pressure, but hitting rocks is a good way to dent your rims.
That's not a problem with non tubeless tires, I don't compete anymore and I prefer to go non-tubeless because it is a more durable system and tires are a lot cheaper.
Facts
The difference in weight of a tubeless vs a 'standard tube' wheel is about 145 grams...(thanks Seth) but wait (or should i say weight)...
A tubeless runs all that weight at the extreme outer limit of the tyre where a tube runs its mass centre tube, or about 40mm closer to the axle... this fairly much negates any weight/mass advantage of a tubeless to the point that I would challenge any rider to be able to tell the difference in weight or rotational mass between any wheel... and an inflated tube is about 0.75 - 1mm of fairly soft rubber vs a reinforced tyre.... I'm not sure the average rider again would notice the difference.
So really the only advantage (albeit quite a good advantage) is tyre pressure and punctures (although a couple of decent burps will most likely ruin a run as much as a puncture...
Having said that, I just got a flat on a gravel track at jogging pace at the local golf course (watching Frisbee Golf)
then again... I've had fun trying to get a tubeless to bead in a workshop... Never had that issue with a tube in the middle of the night on a muddy firebreak...
A designated tubeless tire is heavier than a non tubeless tire,tubeless on a roadbike often ends up heavier than running a tubed tire..........and the tubeless tires cost a lot of money.....but of course money is no object. My Mt bike is tubeless,and even the roadbike is tubeless now with 32mm panaracer semi slicks......real hard core roadbike tubeless tires can easily run 75.00 each,and I always end up cutting them and tossing them,.........................if you dont have tube with you and tubeless takes a dump during a ride................start hoofing it and stick your thumb out.............be prepared................I know people who take their bike to shop to have tubeless tires put on roadbike rims.......they are simply too tight a fit for some to get on rim........tires vary this way.
If you care that little about weight, then ditch the tube and run inserts. No burping at low psi, better rim protection, wider tire footprint, and if you somehow manage to rip a giant hole in your tire that you can't plug, you can still limp out at a half decent speed with no air in your tire.
Watching this on a Tuesday ✔️
I will add one negative to Stan’s in tubes. With higher pressure tires, like gravel and road bikes, the sealant will just shoot out. I found more often I have to remove the tube and the tire will fill with sealant. Messy. Though I do have a couple bikes that won’t run tubeless, so I still use sealant in tubes. Thanks for the video
I'm convinced! I'll start putting sealant in my tubes to prevent small punctures from glass, spikes etc, and if I get something more major, I'll be able to change the tyre without much of a mess on the road
I have successfully been using repaired inner tubes with Stans sealant now for over a year and more.
First I ride MTB on 26in wheels and use only quality Presta valve inner tubes which are around 0.9mm thick. After testing I’ve found BBB to be a good inner tube, however on 26in their range is now limited, so I suggest Continental, or Specialized or Hutchinsons 0.9mm inner tubes because I think they all use the same Chinese manufacturer where the tubes are better quality. Never use the cheap supermarket tubes.
I prefer to use the best inner tubes and repair them, and they can be repaired many times if done correctly, then discard when they fail around the valve if old. Eventually the rubber will get weak but I expect by then you will have your money’s worth.
Best practice is to carry spares and change the inner tube and repair at home.
Schrader valve cores can easily be removed however most or all Presta valves I have tested the valve core is all one, so Presta cores cannot be removed.
If using Schrader valve remove the core and inject the sealant.
If using Presta valve when you repair a puncture inject the sealant through the puncture hole and then patch with the sealant inside.
I’ve found the Stans sealant still fluid over a year later. Some did dry up but still noticeably liquid. Be careful to pump with the valve at the top.
After a year without a puncture I got a flat due to the valve damaged. The tube otherwise was sealed. Checking the tyre I found 2 small thorns plus a small sharp stone in the tread. There was no apparent sealant on the inside of the tyre. So I’d say it was a success and worth continuing to test if you have to use inner tubes. I tested with Stans ordinary but haven’t tested anything else. I did notice less punctures.
I didn’t put in huge amounts and not as much as would go in a tubeless tyre, so I didn’t notice any difference in rolling or weight in either the front or back tyre.
For those that have to use inner tubes then I would give this a go. For those unskilled to go tubeless then this is an ease step towards it.
I’d suggest giving this a try and do so when repairing already damage inner tubes.
The drawbacks.
The inner tube in time may get dry and gummed up inside and there is no way to clean it. However depending on sealant I think this will take a couple of years before disposal.
The valve core can get clogged but with Stans didn’t stop it’s use.
You are rolling the extra weight of the sealant with an inner tube.
You are also carrying extra weight of the sealant in any spare inner tubes.
Inner tubes containing sealant cannot be rolled tightly flat so take up more space in your pack. Plus if one leaks then you could get sealant in your kit.
If you don’t want to do this yourself ‘Slime’ sell them, however you could also consider the thorn proof thicker inner tubes with a thicker tread.
All Schrader valve core can be remove. Even your car have does. Im an Auto Mechanic by trade
That's good to know! :-) I had done a tubeless conversion on my MTB, however since I don't use it all that often, most of the time when I get it out to ride, the rear tyre has deflated and come unseated, despite using a tubeless conversion rim strip, tubeless tyre, a "pool noodle" style tyre liner, and tubeless sealant... Choice is to either try sealant in tubes (the stuff I have, says you can use it in tubes), or go with heavy Schwalbe Smart Sam Plus (or similar) tyres, which have the added puncture protection strip under the tread.
Good write-up. Tnx for the shared experience.
I use the green slime in my tubes.
I run a higher presure because my riding is a good mix of off road and relatively smooth tracks and the weight is compensated by the reduced rolling resistance.
I have only had to fix one puncture in 2 years, the rest fixed themselves with only needing a top of of air when I got home.
I'd like to try timeless sometime but feel like it seems fidly .
What gives the reduced rolling resistance?
@@bradsanders6954 high presure in the tyres reduces the amount the tyre reforms al it rolls which reduces resistance.
The green slime increases the resistance due to weight but it's not that bad.
What puncture what about goatheads
@@magnumllama400 thorns, rusty staples, small nails etc all ok.
Not sure about goatheads, what would be the equivalent here in the UK ?
Had a couple of pictures lately, but I think it was due to not enough slime in the tyre ( I bought bike second hand and guy said he already put in slime but I think wrong sort and not enough ).
I hate punctures ....
I've successfully put sealant into non-removeable valves. You need to attach a syringe using a tight plastic tube to the valve, depress the plunger lightly and wiggle the open valve core as you do this. The sealant should drip in no problem. One concern is blocking the valve with dry sealant because I don't think you'll be able to ever get it out.
hey, any issues with the dry sealent, one year later?
@@riveteye93 In lightweight Tubolite tubes the sealant dried out very quickly even before it was able to block up the valve. Definitely wouldn't try it with Tibolites. Have since gone full tubeless and would swear by it.
But you can inflate a repaired or replaced inner tube with any crappy pump.
I heard it can be very hard to inflate a patched tire.
Worth adding that a cheap inner tube has a cheap removable valve core, I had them failing over time, I think because of tight fit of the pump and the threads would not hold anymore.
If you run tubes in a road bike it's definitely worth adding sealant to the tubes, since doing this I've had no punctures whatsoever - whereas before punctures in my tyres where a regular occurrence.
Not tried tubeless yet but I am in the process of doing so on my recent gravel bike build.
So what are your thoughts on riding tubeless on a front hub ebike kit that is built onto a single speed 700x38c tires with tubes? Please let me know in detail your thoughts. Thank you
Super informative video, thanks for mentioning our DART Tool!
3 years so far no flats with sealant in tubes, orange seal says sealant lasts longer in tubes. I appreciate the knowledge being dispensed but sealant in tubes works great................Continental tubes have removable presta valves........................................this "rides better with no tubes" is really open to opinion...............a tube is an air chamber....a tire is an air chamber.....psi is what matters............some stuff on youtube is hocum.
I used Slime inside tubes in the past with mixed results. I converted some of my bikes to tubeless and it's the way to go especially for gravel and mountain trails. Important to check sealant levels regularly as sealant will dry out. Also my rear tire will get more cuts than front tire and needs sealant more often as it's being used up to seal the cuts. I find myself adding sealant every couple of months.
Hi. As I know that Slime will be dried out after 2 years. My question is after 2 years can we put Slime in Inner Tube again, or we have to throw away old Inner Tube and put a new one?
@@dttub Slime will likely dry out before 2 years. No harm in adding fresh Slime when necessary.
If your going to do that I would suggest using sealant that is designed for use with tubes. As I recall back in the day that sealant we used with tubes was much thicker than the sealant we use in a tubeless setup today.
Orange seal says the same sealant goes in either. Lasts longer in tubes.
@@bradsanders6954 well when I was still running tubes on my road bike I tried putting orange sealant in the tubes because that's what I was using with my mountain bike. Yeah it lasts long but it really didn't work with tubes. My experience is that orange sealant won't seal up a tube that's been punctured.
@@michaelglidewell1524 Even orange seal states on the bottle it works in tubes,and Ive had it work in tubes great for 3 years now on 3 bikes..........but Im sure your right.
@@bradsanders6954 I'm just telling you my personal experience, "your mileage may vary." I've found it to work great for tubeless setups (MTB, road, gravel) but putting it in the tubes on a road bike never really worked well for me. I switched from Stans to Orange Sealant about 6 years ago for my MTB. Tried it in the tubes on my road bike for about 3 years, then switched to road tubeless setup 3 years ago and have had much better performance since. If the setup you have is working for you then stick with it until it doesn't. My setup wasn't working for me so I changed to one that does.
I add Stans Sealant (original, not race) to my tubes. After 6 months I add more sealant to the tubes if I haven't already replaced the tubes and tires. The other day I had to replace two presta valve cores after the sealant clogged the valves. It was impossible to put air in the tire. The removable valve cores are inexpensive. The only thing the sealant will not protect against is a sidewall tire failure which is rare but can happen. And in that case a new tube would not help. Thus, I carry nothing with me in case of a flat.
"I carry nothing"...........a trusting soul. A sidewall failure you boot it and stick a tube in,boot it with what ever can be found that works. Dollar bill can work........trusting to the universe to save you can be a long old wait. People carry a tube running tubeless for a reason.
Hi, would you recommend TPU tubes, and if so, which brand for MTB? Thanks
Yes, full-on tubeless is better, but it's a PITA for a fat bike. I wasn't worried about sealing flats until fat biking around Las Vegas, where thorns ensure you'll be fixing flats constantly. I'm going to try the tube w/sealant route and live with the weight penalty.
If your riding application requires the use of tubes, e.g. commuting, and you are THAT prone to punctures, then you should consider getting a tyre w a tougher casing.. Like gatorskin or marathons
My experience, it’s the heaviest way to go with mixed results, and ride characteristics were miserable. Early on I found it would prevent a flat, but ended up with slow leakers as the friction between the tube/tire would not let it seal completely. Full tubeless is far superior, although not as easy for the novice.
My experience is no flats in 3 years,on 3 different bikes...........running sealant in tubes.........it was obvious the sealant had worked on various punctures when I pulled the tube out..........so the far superior angle is also a theory...........Ive seen tubeless go bad and it sucks when it cant be fixed inside of an hour or more. .............any tire in any use can have problems at times.
Full tubeless is fantastic the bike seems snappier and more nimble, BUTTTTT, it’s a huge pain in the ass and generally not worth it for your average rec riders. I ride MTB 2-3 times per week 10-15 miles a ride. I have NEVER had a flat with my durable 45 North Mud snow tires but my son has very light Maxxis Xc tires on his Kona Hei Hei full sus Xc race bike and we’ve had two flats with tubes I had two bikes set up tubeless but went back because of the constant need for maintenance. I’m going to try the sealant tubes on his bike now.
Geesh, came here to see the pluses and minuses of tire sealant, not to hear your opinion on going tubeless.
Yes
When a tire sealant will last over a year in a tire I may switch. I've no desire to upkeep something else on a bi monthly/quarterly schedule. That's the biggest concern for me.
Green slime I think lasts a year
Now depends on what temperature you riding in
People say if you put more stans in it will last longer
Im going to go tubeless, I’m very new. I’ve noticed that most, at least it seems, use Stan’s sealant. I have Flatout for an e-bike, not sure if I should use that on my tubeless gravel bike?
Problem I have is I’m changing tyres a lot for conditions. E Mtb on road, schwalbe marathons. Of road back to stock maxxis dissector and the relevant rear. Winter in mud dissector on the rear, Vitoria Mazza up front. Back to road ride and road tyres. Messing around with sealant in that scenario? Doesn’t work for me.
Walmart sells tubes already with sealant inside, they work good
ok i understand but wouldn't a tire with tube help you on berms , because , on full tubeless , you might leak sealant and air , but on tubed with sealant , you get this bonus and the auto repair of small puctures? , the only downside is the weight. tire and sealand will give some rotational weight , but it could help you at manualing , wheelieing, bunny hopping , and hitting jumps?
Can I go tubeless on my hey bike cityscape?
Use it inside my latex tubes fitted in Vittoria Corsa. Make them hold airpressure a bit better so I don't have to pump them up so often.
what sealant exactly is it u're using in ur latex tubes??
ty sir
I was thinking of putting sealant in my road tubes for my road bike. That's how I found this video.
In tests performed exactly for that purpose it was determined that "static weight" vs "rotational weight" isn't an issue 2:35 . As for weight, remember that sealant has weight so the difference between tubes and sealant isn't as much as one would think otherwise.
Having stated the above, tubeless is better for traction, reduction of flats, cornering, and ride quality.
I don't want the mess and burping of tubeless, plus at the back I'm going to run an insert anyway, because yes, 90% of flats on my DH Bike are all pinchflats. So tyre plus insert plus sealant = weight anyway, particularly if I use DH casing tyres front & rear..
So I'm going to run a Tannus Armour Tyre Insert at the rear, that's designed for a tube & can be run at near tubeless tyre pressures, & enables even slashes of the tyre itself to be ridden on.. Then at the front where I don't get any pinchflats, I'll just run a Maxxis welterweight with sealant, in a DH casing wire bead tyre.. At the rear with the insert & smaller tube, I can just run an Exo casing to drop the weight..
I think that will be better than the hassle of tubeless in both tyres, with the added weight of a Cush Core at rear.. Sound like a solid plan?
hello, tnx for the videos. Nice to listen to guy who not a knob and condescends to their audience. Is it advisable to run a 26 x4.0 ebike wheel tubeless?
As long as you can find tubeless ready tires and tubeless rims, I would recommend it. I’ve never personally owned a fat bike so I haven’t looked into whether or not tubeless ready tires are common, but I would think they would be.
Just found your site. Thanks for the tips. Those of us that have old school bikes with tubes and rim brakes would pay more for a tubeless setup than we paid for our bikes! Have you ever reviewed Tannus Liners? Would be interested in your opinion. Thank you.
Have not used those yet. Welcome to the channel!
I have a radrunner plus ebike and i put green slime 2in1 sealant in my tubes. they do jack squat. two punctures (one was metal shard, other was a screw) in the past 7 days. Can you recommend a tube sealant that would actually work? or should I just carry a patch kit with me?
I’ve always used Stan’s sealant, and very happy with it. If for some reason, it does not seal the way you want it, you could try their race formula. It’s a little more difficult to work with but can seal larger punctures better.
@@ClintGibbs stans sealant...in tubes? the tubeless sealant? i got that stuff laying around.
@@slugzkea yes
This is a timely video, should have thought of this.. Here's some additional info....
Slime makes a tube specific sealant. It's important to distinguish between sealant for tubeless tires and sealant for tubes. Also consider people who ride fat bikes. The sealant necessary to go tubeless is significant. Giant recommend 4 bottles of Stans sealant for each of the Maxxis Colossus tires that are OEM Yukon 1 for the 27.5 x 4.5" tires... Significant and expensive. The Slime only requires 4 oz for the tubes & I have tested it with a thorn to the front tire, it works!!! Also consider the issue of sealant freezing, what's the temperature rating??
Choosing to ride tubeless on a modern mountain bike even with + sized tires is always better than with tubes in most normal riding conditions. However, if you choose or have to stick with tubes, make sure you select the correct sealant type.
Stress less, ride more. Stay safe.
I have a fat tire bike that I run tubeless. A single tube is a pound of weight. I use 4 to 6 oz of Orange sealant per tire and works fine. Buy it in bulk because that's what I use for all my bikes. I currently have multiple thorns in each tire. I just clip the end of the thorns on the outside and let the sealant gel around the thorns on the inside. Works great.
I don't care about a better quality ride, I want reliability - I dont want to fix flats while on a ride. I've been putting Orange Seal or Stans sealant, in the tubes of my 6 bikes for the last 10 years. 100% success rate sealing pinch/snake bites, goat head and metal causing punctures
DECENT VIDEO DO I AGREE going tubeless no tried it been there middle of a night on some distant village street from home . finding that puncture in the dark with smart phone na . even in daylight i find it tricky i like my sealant normally it pushes a dye out of the hole or some were and i really like slime tubed tires very easy repair re inflate spin that tire around inflate a bit more maybe feeling your tire marking were you saw the slime on the tire and rim give u a idea how far from the stem the hole might be . when i ran tubeless it was a night mare i should just gave up bike riding I spent more time walking home . muc off orange sealant for tubeless never stopped anything . still sitting in my car collecting road dust on the bottles . tubes are easier to fix more perm ant with green slime they stand out were leak is they give you a predictable slow air loss normally i clear the obstruction and ride on to my home or car then i can look over the tire see if i need bigger repair. i like that little stans flat repair gadget that might made my feeling going back to tube tires a longer pause i had tried tubeless riding on two of my bikes and gave it up each time after about a month the bikes came tubeless ready figured i paid extra for it i should give it a shot each time i went back to tubes . i ride alone a lot my warden she tracks me and takes garden hose to me when i do not report in on time lol when i return home cover ed in mud she is awaiting with her hose with huge smile she gets hot and testy when i'd called her about tire flats during the tubeless testing phase nice short video look forward to more
I have been looking for a video to show others why it is good to put sealant in tubed tires, so I did a search and came across your video. Sadly, you spend more time talking about tubeless tires and why riders should switch to them instead of the pros and cons of using sealant in tubes with removable cores. I appreciate the information, but you should change the title to "Why riders should switch to tubeless tires".
Just saying braddah.
Sorry didn’t find the video useful for what you’re looking for. However, I do like that subject of “pros and cons of sealant”. Every once in a while I do it Tech Tip Tuesday video and that would be a good one. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks braddah. Looking forward to it.
The simplest and most straightforward method for applying sealant to a non-removable valve is to puncture the tube, apply sealant, seal it with a tire patch, and then inflate.
Tubes with sealant way more practical than tubeless
Does using sealant throw off tire balance? Having a liquid spinning inside the tire. I will try double tubing using old tube split on the inside and remove the valve of course.
Not at all
So what about running tubeless but also having some sealant in your spare tube so that if you do have to use it, there is less risk of getting another flat during the remainder of the ride?
Yeah, good idea. But keep in mind that sealant doesn't last forever. So if your spare sits idle for a long time, especially if it is subject to a lot of temperature changes, the sealant could dry up. Worth a try though!
@@ClintGibbs Good point. I already carry a small bottle of stans on long rides anyway. I might consider adding some to the spare tube in the field after I’ve installed it.
Clint, thx for taking time to make the video but yiu didn't actually answer...yiu definitely gave your opinion on tubes vs tubeless.
I pretty much answered it about 30 seconds into the video but it was also designed to make people consider the options and make an informed decision for themselves. Bottom line is if you are running tubes, I would recommend putting sealant inside if it does have a removable valve core. Sorry if that wasn’t clear.
So in short, without all the tubeless talk, yes you can put tire seal on tubes.
Nice. You can't put tubeless tires on any wheel? Also, do you have to use sealant with the Stans Dart?
The wheels have to have a rim strip for tubeless tires. Rims designed for tubeless also lock the tire bead into place. But you can convert most rims to tubeless, even if they aren't designed to be tubeless. The stans dart is designed to react with sealant but perhaps could work without it. I haven't tried to see if it would.
sealant will clog the tube, so you won't be able to clean it. butt yes sealant in the tube can work as a short term solution, but not great, tubeless is better. for some reason I've never seen anyone mention this. but results might vary depending on sealant. if you use Orange seal it's hopeless.
If your tyre comes off the rim you are walking
Tyre plugs don't last long
Nothing wrong with inner tubes at all
I've done more than 40,000 miles
Believe it or not without a puncture
I ride 38 miles a day five days a week
40 on a Saturday and 12 on a Sunday
Using oko off-road 120ml in each wheel
There is a tyre stab video on my channel if you want to look
Not everyone can afford new tubeless tires and new tubeless wheels, not are all hardcore riders. Some still just ride for fun. Sorry It didn't help at all.
All cores are removable it just requires 2 different tools the sadder valve can be remove them. But it at Walmart.
Should change the title of the Vid to " Benifits of a Tubeless ready setup/tire"
What about buying puncture-proof tires?
I don’t have a lot of experience with those but I know they can be pretty heavy and sluggish.
Seams like something that will save you from replacing the tube on the road
YES - having less rotational weight is more effective when pedaling a bike than having a full water bottle.
It is really not that straightforward. Its depends on your use case, and for someone that have a gravel bike or road bike, using tubeless liquid in a tube is perfectly fine because you not gonna run such low pressures and pitch flates are less likely. On gravel bikes and road bikes your flats are usually smaller holes, so provided that you use the correct inner tube and liquid combination you should have great success. Also if you are running light weight latex inner tubes, the extra weight is minimal. You also do not need so much liquid, you can run lower amounts to save weight. What might make a bigger difference is rim width and tyre size when it comes to ride quality and comfort. Tubeless setups are generally very messy to work on while out on trail, and if the plug doesn't work you need to put a inner tube into a wheel full of liquid, not to mention the struggle of seating a tyre beed on some tyres and rim setups. A tube containing liquid is less messy to deal with. For longer rides, id rather go for inner tube. Its really easy to change out the tube, and fiddling with tubeless setups can be tricky, not to mention filling air regularly and if the individual is not that tech savvy, it will be a big fuss out on the trail.
This never made any sense to me. When you puncture your tube, the sealant is not going to seal the tube. You're just running "tubeless" now as the sealant has hopefully sealed the tire but the tube still has a hole in it. Why not just get rid of the tube altogether? Keep the tube in your repair kit so you can use it to limp home if something bad happens to your tire. If it's in your tire it's already punctured and useless.
The only time I had sealant in my tubes was a rental bike, and it was a disaster. I pinch flatted, the tube didn't seal, and either the tire was never able to hold air to begin with or the sealant couldn't make its way to where it needed to be due to the tube. Still had a sealant mess to deal with even though I was running tubes. I probably would have been fine if I was just setup straight tubeless.
IMO tubeless with inserts are the way to go as long as you aren't racing.
Is the term "Downhill Bike" a BS term?
Not really. It's a very specific kind of racing, but it's not as popular since Enduro racing has grown so much. Enduro is just so much more accessible for the average trail rider. Most of us don't have access to lifts.
@@ClintGibbs ok thanks 👍
Why dont someone just make bike tires thick enough so goathead thorns cant puncture tire
On my ebike 20×3 inch rims i put scooter tires on n way less flats
That would add a lot of rotational weight.
@ClintGibbs ya more weight on tire, but way less flats, I ride ebikes so to me it don't matter extra weight cause it's motorized
On my expedition electric ebike, the tires that's came with it wasn't that good, I put Scooter tires on it n it rides way better, plus it holds weight way better, n it lifted the bike up some which helped cause Derailleur was way to close to ground
Plus it rides better off road with Scooter tires
Plus I put tannus armour inserts in
Can’t you just have a tubeless setup with no sealant?
It depends on the tire. If it’s made really well and doesn’t have little pores in it then yes you can. But you lose the major benefit of sealing a puncture while you ride.
I don't if I get flat who cares it perform lot better .but tubeless is pain and the freaking ass .and clinchers suck I'm really thinking about selling my Campagnolo WTO and by the Campagnolo Bora one tubular wheels there pain and ass but not as much tubular .
No way I'm gonna go touring on tubeless tires.. Like, I wont be able to set them back once the bead is broken with my hand pump and tubes are easy to patch right after replacing it - once you get another puncture, even 10 kilometers down the same road, your spare tube will be patched already
You can get a battery air pump, but I like tubed in my tires also
I’ll save you 414… “no”
Well done uploader video full of unskippable ads, greedy
I have no control over ads.
In fact, going tubeless adds weight. Tubolito tubes run between 40g and 80g, whereas sealant will be > 100g.
Run with low pressure is stupid idea
Lower pressure is relative. But you’re actually faster running the lower pressure as long as it’s not too low to damage the rim. The old-school mentality of pumping mountain bike tires up to 50 psi is now replaced by lower pressures. I run about 20 psi in the front of my cross country bike and 22 in the back. Trailbike I increased by about 2.
Lower pressure improves cornering grip and actually allows the bike to roll faster because the tire is deforming over objects versus being bounced up and slowing down.
all i am hearing is .. "blaa blaa blaa blaa... tubeless is the best." ... really?
I make my videos to help people enjoy cycling more. For me, riding tuneless means less time on the side of the road or trail patching a tube and more time riding. It’s not for everyone, but for many riders the ride quality is better and it’s less hassle. It’s been years since I’ve gotten a flat on a ride. Riding tubes I’ll be patching a tube every month. Just fine what works best for you.
@@ClintGibbs the problem is how you presented about inner tube which is bad, bad and bad.. I visited here to understand tube sealant effect on bicycle, and looking for method to adopt that into a motorcycle - bike with tube ... I love technology and advancement, plus innovation - FYI I used to work for technology front end corp... however, there is something I begin to aware which is speed not always reliable in long run, you can't fix it yourself. You can fix a carburetor and hell no way fixing a fuel injector..in-term of reliability, hrmm you know how good are electronics ... so, have little sympathy for old tech used by nerds, we stuck with old tech because we know new tech gone cost hell when your $$$ runs low. ... am retired.
@@opcom64 Tubes are not bad at all. I ran them for 15 years in bike tires. But after running tubeless for 15 years I can confidently say that the ride quality is better and you spend much less time patching and replacing tubes on a ride. For me the benefits far outweigh the hassle. But the good thing is we have choices and what’s good for me isn’t necessarily good for someone else.
@@ClintGibbs love your input/reply ...
Bra-less doesn’t like bumps🤔🫨🫨🫨