5 Common Tubeless Setup Errors To Avoid
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- This clip is a section from episode 43 of the Wild Ones Podcast. You can view the full video here: • 5 Common Tubeless Mist...
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+1 for the Dynaplugs. Used to use the bacon strips and they were annoying, but the local shop put me onto the Dynaplugs a year or so back. They don't carry anything else now and neither do I. If the hole doesn't seal, stab it with the plug and be about your business. No fuss, no muss. Just works. :)
Been using dynaplugs for a good 20k miles to great success. I'm gonna try the new WTB system soon though.
You know what works, tubes for road. 🤙
and rim brakes!
@@edgerat who asked old man
@@RylHango your mom
Great episode.. good stuff and great tips! I've been running tubeless for 4 yrs now and love it and take care of my setups and general maintenance and I too tend to run higher pressure on road but have experienced a few situations where they have all sealed on road. I do a lot of what you've described here...thanks for the content! 👍🏾
Good information, always enjoyed! I have both road and mountain used a variety of sealants but never had problems did get flats yet road one for 5 years added sealant one flat.
I have used a tube once and a patch once, but not much trouble with tubeless sort of enjoyed the tubeless experience. Yet did have some struggles with getting then on..but when put in the center it would stretch on… with intensity
I can tell you from personal experience, I started road tubeless in 2021 and the old vittoria corsas in 25 and 28 were a nightmare but it worked if you had a shop compressor, and a lot of sealant. The new corsa pros I set up with a cylinder pump no problem 28 and 34 pro control no issues whatsever for at least a couple thousand miles so far. I think it's mainly the tires that have gotten a lot better.
for road bikes i only go tubeless on the front, rear tubeless is just too messy, and the relatively higher psi just makes it slower to seal and more chaotic. i just use a wider tire for more comfort and accept the tube. saddle, sp length and supple rear triangle also helps. front tubeless is a winner tho. 60 psi even on 25c, not as messy when punctured, fast sealing because of lower psi, comfort all day.
I’ve been using, and having excellent results with Muc-off sealant. In my third set of GP 5000S TRs and not a hint of a puncture. Of course I could just be really lucky.
I still ride tubes on my mountainbike. I haven't suffered many punctures (except for bikepark days) and therefor rather change / repair one tube per season instead of topping up sealant every 3 months.
But i guess this heavily depends on what kind of terrain you ride in. Most trails i ride are dirt/loam and roots. If it would be rocky (and i would enjoy working obthe bike more), the story would be different.
What I hate is that tubeless is now pretty much the only standard when it comes to tires and rims. I'm not converting to tubeless, but yet I just don't have options for non-tubeless items. And the difference is huge when it comes to install/uninstall of tires between tubeless and regular tires/rims. On my old tires/rims that aren't tubeless compatible, I can easily pull off the tire without even using a tire lever. Now, I have to wear out my thumbs trying to even unseat beads to start the process of removing a tire.
I'm glad tubeless is an option for those who need/want it, I just wish it wasn't the only standard now.
I’m not really sure there’s a meaningful difference between tubeless and tube tires/rims. Granted, tubeless products likely have tighter fit tolerances, but that doesn’t preclude them from being used with a butyl or PU tube.
My rims are tubeless ready and so are my tires, but I run tubes. No problems. And I mount my tires using an identical process (other than sealant and tubeless valves).
@@paulgrimshaw8334 What rims do you have? I guess I shouldn't discount all rim brands as being overly difficult since I haven't used everything. My main exposure has been to WTB rims. I've had to use plyers to get old tires off because the tire beads wouldn't come off the rim seating, and that was with 0 rim tape in the bead. I had the middle channel rim tape that just covers the spoke holes. I couldn't even imagine trying to unseat a tire that had rim tape under it.
As a full time mechanic that changes a lot of flats, I would argue it’s older stuff that’s often harder than new stuff. The last time I had a tire that was ridiculously hard to get on was an old rigida box section rim with a 14mm internal diameter, and a folding Panaracer Pasela 28mm. That’s a 30+ year old road rim with a non tubeless tire. I think better manufacturing tolerances and wider rims have actually made things much easier. There are still some combinations that are difficult with tubeless tires and rims, but I never ask myself “is this even possible?!?” The biggest difference between a tubeless and non tubeless rim is the bead seat, which requires you to really push the bead in the center all the way around. Tubeless tires were already the norm when I started wrenching so I was taught this from the beginning. Personally I’d like to see tubes disappear from performance and enthusiast level bikes. It’s a crime to sell a mid level bike in 2024 that isn’t at least tubeless ready if not tubeless out of the box.
I most recently replaced tires on one of my bikes with Bontranger aluminum rims and GR1 tires, both of which were tubeless ready. Switched to a narrower Conti TLR, which have a reputation for being extremely “tight”. The Conti bead had much stiffer steel bead reinforcement.
No real issues mounting either… cleaned the rims with a bit of soapy water, made sure the tires were warmed to room temperature, and used a trace of soapy water on the tire bead during mounting. Tubeless rim tape was used both times (because it’s generally tougher and sticks better).
The stiffer steel bead reinforcement of the Conti wasn't much of an issue at the end of the day. One doesn’t need much deflection to ease the bead over the last bit of rim.
Used tubes both times… Kenda for one, Continental for the other.
Tubeless or not, the mainstream tire manufacturers invest millions in the looms and presses to build tires to specification. Rim manufacturers less so, which is where I believe almost all the mounting problems lie.
Not using a proper drop centre rim can add to mounting challenges but many rim issues are dimensional inaccuracies related to carbon layup, vacuum curing, or just too much resin.
@@paulgrimshaw8334 Ah gotcha. Seating has never been my issue, it's generally been unseating the tire bead. WTB tires on WTB rims might be the worst combo for that maybe? That's what I found at least.
Hard to go wrong with silca, ever since the release , it has been the only sealant I have used across road mountain and gravel
Stans Race sealent works flawlessly on my gravelbike. I was using it for over a year and over 6000km without refilling anything and i had no flats at all, even after a year there was still enough sealent in the tire although Stans says to refill every 3 months :D. I am using Rene Herse tires, wich work super nice. Had some issues with Conti GP5000 on my roadbike, but that changed with using S-TR's now. I am curious how good that sealent will work with my MTB and Vittoria Mezcals.
I might buy into tubeless bike tires if/when they perform more like auto or moto tubeless tires.
Been running tubeless on hookless for a while now, always go through that 1st step of dry seating,
Issues i encounter; wrap twice with tape, 2 full revolutions otherwise it may lift. Clogged valve cores. The base of the tubeless valve not sitting into the rim bed well because of the shape not matching. Asymmetrical rims. Panaracer tires being weird.
I get that Silca is the absolute best for high pressure.
But what is your shop choice for gravel?
Try black ox sealant. Similar to silca.
What about tire liners for road and gravel?
I use Silca sealant and that stuff is brilliant! I have it in my gravel, MTB and road bike and I don't want anything else. All those negative reactions are really nonsense. A bit the same as with disc brakes in the beginning. Complain a lot and eventually switch
Yep, Silca is the best but somewhat also the most difficult to work with due to having to be poured (all that hole plugging carbon fibre thread) initially rather than injected. However, that initial pain is worth it. I didn't know about that when I first used (after like 15 years of stans on MTB). I totally gummed up my injectors and valves.... then ended with sealant sprayed all over the walls when it blew out of the syringe like shot gun wadding :) :) I have had one puncture in 13,000km. Again my fault as I forgot to top up with replenisher.
You've not touched on the related subject of whether it's better to use a pump or Co2 inflator pump - on tubeless set up, and why(?). What's your advice on this.
I've been running tubeless for over 5000 kms on 35mm gravel tyres - I've not experienced anything bad, from setting up to ridding, can't relate to people with tubeless probs. I did have 3 or 4 non-sealed punctures - schwalbe's g-one rs puncture resistant isn't great - they're fast racing tyres - but very low score on puncture resistant, unfortunately. I
use silca sealant - I've fixed the punctures easily with bacon 🥓 strips from muc-off - very sticky - but don't rate them high - there's a build up of excess rubber outside the tyre, despite cutting it off. Have to try different ones in future, and better puncture resistant tyres - may hv to sacrifice on speed.
I just sited my new ultradynamico tires on my hunt wheels and they wouldn’t sit without sealant. Turns out that the wheels needed to a tension adjustment and weren’t « round » at that point. Plain logical but it took me a week to realise that…
Has anyone experimented with using generic sealant, like stans or whatever and adding fibres to it? That seems like a simple and obvious solution to make all sealants better.
I have found that there is a maddening lack of consensus among reviewers regarding their sealant recommendations. That noted, after using tubes for over 40 years (and still using them on some of my bikes) I have gone tubeless with my gravel bikes and one of my road bikes with good results. I use Orange Seal Endurance for my gravel bikes and Stan's for my road bike
Well, people disagree on their preferred tires too and that's ok
I use Silca Ultimate on my race gravel bike.
If the price is a big issue w/ U, try DiYing liquid latex & RV antifreeze then add a bit of ground blk pepper. I just use a bit extra sealant than I would with high $$$ commercial ones.
PS I wouldn't try this on road unless U have a death wish
I've been using Effeto Mariposa since 2019 and never had any issues...yet
Their caffelatex?
what is the difference between Silca Sealant and Silca Sealant Replenish? Can I replenish with the normal Silca Sealant?
The Silca sealant with Fiberfoam (carbon fiber pieces) can only be poured into the tire. It cannot be injected via the valve as it will clog it up. The Silca sealant replenisher is what the name implies, it replenishes the Silca sealant already in your wheel, and it can be injected via the valve because it contains no carbon fiber pieces. You can replenish with the Silca sealant with Fiberfoam but you must unmount portion of the tire to pour in the sealant.
There is a difference. I use the Ultimate at mounting and Replenisher every three months. The Replenisher can be injected through the core.
Interesting that you think Silca is the best sealant. I have been using a tubeless setup for years. I was an early adopter. I recently heard how great the Silca sealant is so purchased some. I used it on three of my bikes. I have had nothing but trouble with it. I have had to re-tape all of my rims because the sealant seems to dissolve the tape adhesive. This resulted in air leaking at my valves and through the pressure relief holes. I had a small puncture on one of my road bikes with the Silca sealant installed and even after using a Dynaplug, it absolutely would not seal. I got spray all over my bike, my shoes and my shorts. I love most everything I have purchased from Silca but, not the tubeless sealant. I have always found regular Stan’s to be the most reliable. Weird, I know……
My issue with Silica has been that the valve cores get gummed up more frequently than other sealants I've used. If you're having issues with air coming out of the core, it could just be that the core is gummed up. I buy 100 cores from Amazon for $10 and keep them in my bike bag.
@@davidtt8372 - Not the cores. I tried that first. It was definitely the tape.
Intermarché Wanty put a sticker on each wheel with info on when and how much milk was usesd. Effetto btw.
My spares... Dyna plugs, 2x tpu tubes, 2x CO2, and a hand pump. If you can't fix it, its just not your day. Tip for players, remember to remove the dynaplugs if fitting tubes!
The maintenance load on bikes is becoming excessive, often due to immature tech or marginal engineering.
Bottom bracket bearing creak due to poor mounting point eccentricity, crank failures due to materials mismatch, fussy tire beads and hookless rims, etc. A great deal of this goes back to the profit engines driving companies. It’s sure as hell isn’t space age technological processes because there would be a lot of human bodies in orbit if space agencies operated this way.
Did Jimmy draw Nick's tattoos?
#5 is the killer for me. The recommendation I've gotten is to carry a tubeless plug kit with me, a mini pump or C02, and a spare tube in case all else fails. That is obviously more than I'm carrying with clinchers, so while the likelihood of a flat has gone down substantially, the amount of crap I need to stuff in my pockets or saddle bag has gone up. I know others will feel different but for me it makes it not worth it.
But the only difference is the plug kit, which is easily slotted into any saddle bag
I think the comfort of much lower pressure for riding and risk of a pinch flat going out the door outweighs carrying more stuff. I agree with you, but still carry a C02 cannister and spare tube. Basically if the sealant doesn't seal I'm up shit creek anyway so will just put the tube in and use the cannister on that.
I dunno what you are talking about. I do bike commuting with TPU tubes. I never leave my house without spare tube, tools and pump.
Where is the additional luggage due to tubeless, I can't see any (except for plugs, but maybe cut the spare tube).
Biggest issue: tubeless tires loose air way too fast. 0.5 bar per day most of the time. Converted 4 wheel sets in total. Tested 28mm up to 45mm tires. Have to pump up the tires before every ride. Gets annoying really fast! As far as punctures/ sealing goes it does work fine
Must be something else wrong if you're needing to pump up every day with 45mm tires. 28s are understandable. But I'm largely running 35s and check my tires every couple days and if I need to pump them up, it takes a single pump with those tires
My tubeless setup (zipp hookless w/goodyear 28mm) looses air way slower than any inner tube I had used before. I was once away from home for 2.5 months, my tires had only dropped from 68psi to around 45psi.
Come now. I ride every day rain or shine, snow or dry flat lands and mountain canyons putting in at least 400 mies a week and doing 100+ milers on the weekends. . I have three bikes all using tubeless :an older rim brake bike needing 700 x 25, a disk brake light weight mountain climber using 700 x 28 and my bad weather endurance frame using 700 x 32. All were switched to tubuless tires about the same time a few years ago. All now showing flattened tire caps especially in the rear with hardly one still showing the manufactures round wear indicators any more and I have NOT flatted in all that time and all those miles on any of the bikes. Every six months I'll add about 1.5 oz of fresh sealant throughout the valve stem buy temporarily removing the valve and squirting in the sealant using a small squeeze bottle that came with the sealant. Clean and easy. I still carry a spare tube and a canister of charged gas but only to give away for a biker found stranded along the road without a proper tube, gas or a pump. And I love riding at lower pressures that tubeless call for. I check and top up my tire pressure every few rides. Tubes are so yesterday. Try tubeless, you'll like it and will never go back to tubes.
3 months in UK? I call it BS... In UK since 2006, on tubeless since 2007 maybe 2008. Even with Stan's that is really bad for drying out 6-9 months without topping up. Easily...
Amount of rain and lack of high temperatures for weeks and months prolongs live of sealant.
Cheers!
I.
Some extra tips i have lesrnt from other channels about applyng the tape:
Tape needs to be warm when applying > got to do the job indoors if its winter.
Put the wheel on the bike to act like a wheel stand> makes it easier to apply ttension to the tape.
TESA tape lasts longer than other tape but has less stretch.> Hence you need good tension.
Check with your wheel manufacturer what width tape you need but experiment with other widths -1mm as it can make the tape fit easier, on the 2nd wrap.
Once youve got ilthe hang of it, you can get realky long reels of TESA tape which makes it much cheaper.
MucOff valves have different rubber bungs so you can get a better seal.
Dynaplug just works and lasts the life of the tire in my experience
This is not a paid comment: I have struggled with sealants on my gravel bike tires. Silca is the only thing that I have found that really works. It’s messy but works.
This is not a paid comment: That’s exactly what a paid commenter would say
I use Silca Ultimate on my gravel race bike. Bombproof. Messy.
Tubeless...I don't get it. However much it's pushed to me, I don't get it. It seems so much of a phaff. The craziest thing is people still having to carry a spare tube!
The first time you get home from a 6hr ride and realise your seat tube is sprayed with sealant, when you didn't even notice, makes it worth it. Plus running way lower pressures in the tyres so it's much more comfy. Definitely bit of a faff especially if you don't have a track pump or compressor, but the benefits outweigh the faff IMO.
@@mrwezbotubed sealants, best of both worlds lol. Then again, just as the video mentioned and from personal experience... tubeless on road dont really seal well unless you fill your tyre with like 50ml or more sealant, giving you a sloshing wheel and it'll loose so much pressure before it seals you may have to stop to pump it up only to have it squirt out again. For me, tubeless on road is just for that rolling resistance for race days with 30ml sealant just to seal the beads. It'll still be the same retirement with a normal puncture as tubes.
I want to know what The Blob recommends.
Buying them in the first place🤣🤣🤣🤣
Tip of the day: if you avoid tubeless you avoid all tubeless mistakes.
If you avoid riding bikes you avoid bike problems
@@letsgetbusychildthat is one stupid remark
Yup, and you get all the massive shortcomings of tubes instead😂
@@Tarmaccyclocrossgotta be extremely stupid to have problems with tubeless.
@@Tarmaccyclocross Just as stupid as the post about tubeless (hence my point)
The best mistake to avoid in road and gravel tubeless setup is to not use it!😂 Changing a tube on the roadside is not that hard.
Seriously Nic? You're recommending tubeless set ups for road and have no liability concerns? The hypocrisy is laughable at this point.
I believe you are confusing tubeless with hookless. The show has never spoken negatively about tubeless.
@@applenutt1 No offense but I think you're the confused one my friend. Hookless wheels are not used with tubed tires.
@@kevinlewis390 you make no sense. tubeless is common on road and there is no hypocrisy from Cade media.
@@applenutt1 Who's talking about Cade media? You aren't making any sense.
Lol. Drama queen
Tip of the day: just don’t. It’s overrated