A couple of checks before removing carbs. The vent hole on the fuel filler cap can be blocked. Causing a vacuum in the tank and starve the fuel to carbs. The fuel tap needs checking too. Put the tap on reserve have the fat pipe dangling free into a catch cup / bottle. take the small vacuum line off the carb and suck to create vacuum on the fuel tap. You can see if the tap is operating on vacuum correctly and not flowing free with the engine off. Is the clutch ok? You mentioned revs but doesnt move? Could be clutch slipping. Brake pads worn? or a leak ? Fluid will get low as the pads wear. I found they run too lean on aftermarket exhausts. Always had better running on oem exhaust and jetting. Finally after checking carbs and float heights they will definately need to be balanced. Ps dont leave the tap on prime its just for empty carbs . You are doing really well , be happy with the little victories. They can be a bit tricky to dial in but remember there's nothing bad going on mechanically its just tuning. 👍✌️❤️
Thanks for this. I don't think the clutch is slipping, as it moves, it just doesn't seem to deliver any power once going, it wont accelerate and cuts out. The things you mentioned I'm on with, but not checked the fuel/vent hole so will do that shortly.
As you intend changing the silencer, do it before setting up the carbs, or you may need to set the (at least) pilot mixture all over again. As already mentioned, temporarily take the fuel filter off and manually check operations of the fuel taps and petrol cap breather hole before getting into taking the carbs off again.
The fuel tap is a vacuum type, so you shouldn't have e any issues with the carbs overflowing. The prime position is only to be used to prime the carbs after either running out of fuel or having rebuilt the carbs. I had a 1200s bandit back in 2022. My battery failed just like yours. The tank breather became blocked along with the breather hole in the fuel cap. This led to the bike running rough, and when I opened the petrol cap, fuel errupted from the tank. Low brake fluid could indicate leaking/weeping calliper/piston seals. Led indicators flashing fast are a mot failure. You can either replace the flashing unit or use inline resistors. No power, stalling, check the tank breather and petrol cap.
Actually even with vac tap, they can still overfuel, as long as bike is running the valve will be open allow the fuel to continuely flow, the time the carb wont be able to overfuel is when the engine stops, shutting the tap off creating the vac lock on feed. However, you need to make sure your tap is working as it should as these are notorious for the vac taps to fail and not shut the fuel off correctly. On my bandit, i actually fitted a new diaphram with a stiffer spring to prevent failure from happening. ❤
It took me about many tries to find a fuel filter that I could put on my ‘98 bandit that met 2 very important criteria. 1: it had to fit. (Space is tight under the tank.) 2: it had to allow sufficient fuel flow. Most are either too big to fit and/or also expect a fuel pump. This is a gravity fed fuel system. If I remember correctly 6 to 12 inches of petrol has about 0.1 to 0.2 PSI of fuel pressure. that is the height, roughly, from the top a gsf600 fuel tank to the carbs. It is almost zero pressure. A paper filter is not a filter, it is a blockage I eventually found a Micro filter, about the size of my thumb, that uses a sintered filter element and I can fit it in under the tank, on eBay.
just had a quick read through the comments and didn't see anyone else mention this so maybe im wrong... But... I think you put the fuel filter in backwards. The arrow points in the direction of fuel flow not to the tank to show how to plug it in. Maybe you just misspoke but the other reason i think its in backwards is incomming fuel normally goes into the larger area that you can see, not the smaller area that's hidden. That way there's more area to fill with crud, more surface area to filter the crud and you can see how cruddy your fuel is which is the point of the see through part of a see through filter. Btw respect for posting the part about the brake light switch. This is the 1st of your videos i'v seen, will sub and watch more of them.
Thanks for this, ill check the filter and correct it if needed. The fuel filter is needed as the tank isn't the best despite cleaning it. Its an easy solution for now, but i think a newer tank and good condition is needed.
@@newmotorcycleguy After watching some of your other vids i found the one where you show the inside of the tank.. To be honest i dont think its that bad. Looks like someone has done a bad job of putting a coating inside it at some point so i wouldn't advise trying to coat over it. Not without getting all that red paint out first which would be a hassle. I'd just carry on using it, keep it full of petrol, don't use reserve and keep an eye on the inline filter. If it starts to get muck in it then clean or replace it, give the tank and float bowls a swill out and carry on. The cost of a new tank would be more than i'd want to spend, a second hand one will probably have its own set of problems so yeah id just carry on and clean as needed. As long as it's not leaking i don't see a problem. You have filters in the tank and inline. Just make checking the filter part of your regular maintenance and none of the muck should ever find its way to the carbs.
The long black tap that goes below the frame rail unscrews from the fuel tap, this is meant to be removed from the fuel tap before you lift the tank, makes it so much easier, as for the running issue it sounds like fuel starvation, perhaps the fuel line is or vent hose is kinked?
Thank you, they were not kinked, but im having hard time on getting the black part off i think that part is well seized on, though i did strip and clean the rest of it!
The flasher unit is not under the seat, it is under the left hand side panel, half-way along the seat. It is a two pin relay unit and is one of the rearmost units under there. LED appropriate replacements are readily available on Amazon. The pulling away issue you describe is indicative of a lack of fuel, and or, air. If your air filter/inlets are clear, then you may need to look to your pilot jets/circuit being blocked. If the bike is running well over 1/4-1/3 throttle, this would be a good indication of that being the case.
Well done, you're making good progress even if it doesn't feel like it. That round tube thing in the engine case is a dowel. They are used to accurately position the case is all. Sounds like it needs more fuel if it wouldn't restart without choke when hot. Do as others have suggested and try it without ghe filter and or strip and clean the carbs again. I know - its a ball ache. 😅
yea, I'm going to have to get a better tank for no filter as i cannot get all the liner in this one out, there's a ton still floating about, I'm hoping to pick one from Wigan tomorrow night.
Undo the 2 bolts so you can rotate the front brake reservoir on the handlebar and turn your steering, Should be able to get the fluid level to top it up.
fuel fiter is upside down, move the mastercylinder so you can top it up proper.floats height 17mm ,the petrol pipe looks kinked as well ,take the fiter off 600,s dont go well according to forum with them.
21mm is quite rare on a Japanese bike. Tend to be 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22 The bit on the side cover is a locating dowel. They are normally not that tightly in place (and if stuck, use heat as the alloy will expand differently to the steel of the dowel) A 4>1 exhaust is standard. But they commonly rust under the engine where the 4>1 section joins the silencer pipe.
I can't help you but watch your video to support you. I'm thinking of getting a bike again and do a fixer upper, so I can learn and do some riding next year. looking forward to your next video.
I fitted the same fuel filter to my new bike. Under heavy acceleration, I'm getting fuel starvation. There are specific inline fuel filters for motorcycles that come apart for cleaning though they are a tad bit more expensive.
The fuel system has a vacuum pump attached to it I believe take that fuel filter off and see if it makes a difference also drain the carbs at the bowl check for water or any fuel contamination
Air mixture screws are another issue. The change of silencer might mean someone's messed with them. On my bandit, they were set between 1/2, 1/3/4, 2 turns out. The plugs should be between grey and biscuit colour, and the four into one exhaust system is standard
Thank you for answering these. I'm trying to get a standard tail pipe, the plugs are black and I'm taking the carbs off again to go through them with the screw and floats heights this time.
Reckon the carbs are ok,fuel in the oil probably from before you rebuilt them.plus it starts & revs ok could be the clutch slipping due to wear or your front brakes are binding,both will restrict the movement even when on throttle..Ian
Hard to tell without riding the bike but it could be fuel starvation. I would take that inline fuel filter back off, fit a normal fuel pipe in place and give it a run. If still the same pull over and put fuel tap to prime position and try again. Then I would turn fuel off, fit a pipe between fuel tap to a container, turn tap to prime to make sure I had good fuel delivery to the carbs.
@@chrissyb5447 i did mention this before about the filter restricting the fuel flow, the only filter he should fit is the suzuki branded one for mk2 bandits (but bear in they use different carbs) Issue with the bandits in general, is one hose feeding 4 carbs although i have seen a mod where someone made 2 feeds for each pair of carbs, each fuel seat in the carbs has a 2.2mm hole for feeding the bowls
Get the fuel filter out it dont need one and its the wrong way And then re try before you do any thing else at high rpm its not feeding enough fuel in To the carbs If you want turn the filter around and try and see what crap you do get in it and then bin it Just check you have no cracks or breaks in your spark plug leads My 1200 when it got over a rpm would loss power as it was shorting out and i only noticed as it was dark and saw it arching across The exhaust is standard 4 in to 1 and the end can just slips on I would not put lock tight on any bolt and never on engine covers these get hot and expand so as long as its tight and the gasket is good you will not have issues Keep going videos are great 👍 wish i could have spoken to you when you had the front brake switch off 😂 gave us a laff Then i got thinking of all the things i have done so your not the only one we have all done it buddy
thanks for all this. that filter is going, ill check the leads, and lessons learnt! Its just trying to get things done and in order and in the right way. But I'm learning loads!!
Your doing well mate keep it up . Your learning on the go which is great to see. keep it up. Your doing a good job. 👍👍👍Your problem is def carbs . Just keep at it your will get there .
Before stripping the carbs again did it accelerate OK before you put the inline filter on? Could just take it off again and try. The filter tubes on the fuel tap should keep the crap out. But at least it will give you an answer if it is just a fueling issue. As gravity fed make sure your fuel pipes have no kinks now that you have added extra hose. Good luck.
I actually didn't ride it before the filter, so don't know, But i think I'm going to have to try it to be sure. however the tank will not come perfectly clean. I have refurbed the fuel tap and that has new filers on. the fuel tap does run freely, i have checked the plugs and they are black with deposits.
Yea, i' ve checked this, it is in the right way. but ill remove it for now to see if it makes any difference! i think the bike needs a stock or close to stock exhaust.
I have had a look at the plugs, they are black. I've taken the carbs and cleaned and ready to go back on. they didn't need it! lol . I'm looking for a standard exhaust.
Fuel filter could be on backwards also there’s a pipe that is under the engine if I remember with a plug in it every now and then take the plug out and see if there’s any water in it. It’s been a lot of years since I had a bandit so my memory isn’t brilliant and maybe someone else can verify it.
It's easy to overthink everything, most systems work just ok, if it's not broken don't try to fix it 😅 i would remove the fuel filter, bad experience with that things 😮
This sounds like a cutch issue to me? Could your clutch be slipping? I had this issue recently with my bike. Easy to spot, if you are riding the bike, accelerate and if the engine revs but the bike isn’t pulling accordingly, then it will be your clutch. Doesn’t necessarily smell and you won’t necessarily notice with the bite of the clutch. Just a suggestion. Great content, I’m learning a ton from your vids mate, keep it up.
you should recoat the inside of the fuel tank if that is where the crap is comming from i believe you can buy liquid online that you pour into the tank swill it around then leave to dry to coat the tank inside.
I have looked in to this, It would seem many do not work and cause further issues. Plus they are expensive and it might be easier to find a rust free tank.
Thank, this being the mixture screws? just one and three quarters for each? i have seen three and half on a tube vid, and cant seem to find it in the manual?
@@newmotorcycleguy yes in tunnel underneath at front of carbs, can be done on bike ,use a narrow flathead screwdriver bit in a small socket awkward but go gently screwing in till seated dont force em, then back out the number of turns .u got a manual its in the specs at the begining of chapter on fuel and exaust. 2 turns even is ok, u got new filter and cleaned the fk out of tank .should be ok, take inline filter off tho as said and shorten fuel pipe if needed so its not kinked up if needed. u doin well mate the old bandits like tlc and will give back what u put in in spades if u keep up maintainance, easy to work on youself ,u have made a good choice fella.
If your changing exhaust, you must rejet carbs otherwise it will be too lean and risk burning valves out. As much as i advise against the inline, be cautious with bends cause that can cause issue also. You need to balance the carbs as well. Denso are the better sparks for these, wouldnt touch the iridiums! These engines dont like them very well. If you shorten your fuel hose on carb side, then use a longer hose on tap side, you can loop the tank hose on top of box to run through the filter without major issues. You also need to make sure your float height is around 17mm give or take 1mm difference. Make sure you test your carbs before fitting them to ensure the float needles are stopping excessive fuel cause these are notorious for overfueling and then contaminating your engine oil. If your ever after spares, i know an amazing person from Pontypridd who has hundreds of spare bits just for these bandits! Right now I understand ypur proberly frustrated with the bike, but all thata happened is this bike been neglected, get onto facebook groups! Loads of folks will guide you in the right direction. Be warned though, on the standard carb setup by suzuki, these do have a flat spot around 4 to 5k revs. Once you hit 7k they wake up! 😂❤
Thank you for this. i have had the plugs out, and they look blackened. I'm taking the carbs off again and redoing everything, making sure no debit has got back in, doing the floats and mixture screws. I plan to get an oem exhaust asap when i can source a decent tail end.
@@newmotorcycleguy if the plugs are black, that suggest too rich or not burning correctly, replace spark plugs to eliminate these be faulty. You just need OEM slip on can as your headers are standard pipes. The carbs on these are really sensitive, once you sort them out they will be grand.
Before you go taking the carbs off & opening them up, go back to basics. Sounds like it’s extremely low on fuel, so get some petrol in it. Others have commented on checking for fuel flow with vacuum petrol taps, so disconnect the fuel line from the carbs & follow their instructions to confirm petrol is flowing from the tank. Ensure the inline filter is facing the correct direction. Reconnect fuel pipe to carb & try restarting the bike. See how that goes.
22:41 if you had high engine revs but you don't have the speed you expected it could be the clutch is buggered, basically if you accelerate and revs rise but road speed doesn't or does but slowly in comparison to the revs, it's toast 😮
@@newmotorcycleguy it's generally easy to spot, if you ride up a slight hill in 2nd or 3rd and crack open the throttle and the bike only slowly increases speed but the engine revs go soaring up in a disproportionate way the clutch plates are shot 🤷🏻♂️ of course the engine operation has to be OK and running normally, not bogging down or anything
@@kevindarkstar this makes a lot of sense to me. Judging by the bars, end can, it's a bandit and last owner like to jump it off speed bumps i'm guessing this bike has a few wheelies and burnouts in its past. Bet he sold it when wouldn't lift the front wheel anymore. EDIT: Forgot to say this so hence the edit. Dunno if this is a bad way to do it but the way i test a clutch is pull upto a wall, with the front tyre snug to the wall i put both brakes fully on, rev the engine a teeny tiny bit and slowly SLOWLY let the clutch out. A bike with a good clutch will bog and stall or need more throttle to keep running. If the clutch is totally shot you can let it out and keep the engine running with bike not moving. You can also just use a wall and no brakes or just front brake. Good clutch will spin the tyre, bad will just rev. It can stress stuff so if you do this and break something or fall off don't blame me.
@@newmotorcycleguy have a look at SF parts ,but u will find origional silencer on line ebay tho what u have is fine lol. sf got Lextek with removable baffles ,i got bolt on one on my 1200 bandit.
Did you check how much oil you should put in on a refill as it's not the bikes total capacity usually somewhere around 500mil less hope you didn't over fill
Mate thinking your an idiot is nothing new to those of us that mess around with bikes the amount of things ive done wrong is ridiculous buuuuut its the best way to learn
A couple of checks before removing carbs. The vent hole on the fuel filler cap can be blocked. Causing a vacuum in the tank and starve the fuel to carbs. The fuel tap needs checking too. Put the tap on reserve have the fat pipe dangling free into a catch cup / bottle. take the small vacuum line off the carb and suck to create vacuum on the fuel tap. You can see if the tap is operating on vacuum correctly and not flowing free with the engine off.
Is the clutch ok? You mentioned revs but doesnt move? Could be clutch slipping.
Brake pads worn? or a leak ? Fluid will get low as the pads wear. I found they run too lean on aftermarket exhausts. Always had better running on oem exhaust and jetting. Finally after checking carbs and float heights they will definately need to be balanced. Ps dont leave the tap on prime its just for empty carbs .
You are doing really well , be happy with the little victories. They can be a bit tricky to dial in but remember there's nothing bad going on mechanically its just tuning. 👍✌️❤️
Thanks for this. I don't think the clutch is slipping, as it moves, it just doesn't seem to deliver any power once going, it wont accelerate and cuts out. The things you mentioned I'm on with, but not checked the fuel/vent hole so will do that shortly.
As you intend changing the silencer, do it before setting up the carbs, or you may need to set the (at least) pilot mixture all over again. As already mentioned, temporarily take the fuel filter off and manually check operations of the fuel taps and petrol cap breather hole before getting into taking the carbs off again.
yes thank you, this has been mentioned a few times. Who knew how much these could change them to performing poorly!
The fuel tap is a vacuum type, so you shouldn't have e any issues with the carbs overflowing. The prime position is only to be used to prime the carbs after either running out of fuel or having rebuilt the carbs. I had a 1200s bandit back in 2022. My battery failed just like yours. The tank breather became blocked along with the breather hole in the fuel cap. This led to the bike running rough, and when I opened the petrol cap, fuel errupted from the tank. Low brake fluid could indicate leaking/weeping calliper/piston seals. Led indicators flashing fast are a mot failure. You can either replace the flashing unit or use inline resistors. No power, stalling, check the tank breather and petrol cap.
thanks for all this, I'll go through it. i think i need to put OEM indicators on when i can get the bike running well.
Actually even with vac tap, they can still overfuel, as long as bike is running the valve will be open allow the fuel to continuely flow, the time the carb wont be able to overfuel is when the engine stops, shutting the tap off creating the vac lock on feed.
However, you need to make sure your tap is working as it should as these are notorious for the vac taps to fail and not shut the fuel off correctly. On my bandit, i actually fitted a new diaphram with a stiffer spring to prevent failure from happening. ❤
@@newmotorcycleguyyou can purchase the led relay for around £15 which is a simple fitment to install.
It took me about many tries to find a fuel filter that I could put on my ‘98 bandit that met 2 very important criteria.
1: it had to fit. (Space is tight under the tank.)
2: it had to allow sufficient fuel flow.
Most are either too big to fit and/or also expect a fuel pump.
This is a gravity fed fuel system.
If I remember correctly 6 to 12 inches of petrol has about 0.1 to 0.2 PSI of fuel pressure.
that is the height, roughly, from the top a gsf600 fuel tank to the carbs.
It is almost zero pressure.
A paper filter is not a filter, it is a blockage
I eventually found a Micro filter, about the size of my thumb, that uses a sintered filter element and I can fit it in under the tank, on eBay.
Thank you for this, i did manage to get a small filter but not put it on, and yes the space is very limited!
just had a quick read through the comments and didn't see anyone else mention this so maybe im wrong... But... I think you put the fuel filter in backwards. The arrow points in the direction of fuel flow not to the tank to show how to plug it in. Maybe you just misspoke but the other reason i think its in backwards is incomming fuel normally goes into the larger area that you can see, not the smaller area that's hidden. That way there's more area to fill with crud, more surface area to filter the crud and you can see how cruddy your fuel is which is the point of the see through part of a see through filter.
Btw respect for posting the part about the brake light switch. This is the 1st of your videos i'v seen, will sub and watch more of them.
Thanks for this, ill check the filter and correct it if needed. The fuel filter is needed as the tank isn't the best despite cleaning it. Its an easy solution for now, but i think a newer tank and good condition is needed.
@@newmotorcycleguy After watching some of your other vids i found the one where you show the inside of the tank..
To be honest i dont think its that bad. Looks like someone has done a bad job of putting a coating inside it at some point so i wouldn't advise trying to coat over it. Not without getting all that red paint out first which would be a hassle. I'd just carry on using it, keep it full of petrol, don't use reserve and keep an eye on the inline filter. If it starts to get muck in it then clean or replace it, give the tank and float bowls a swill out and carry on.
The cost of a new tank would be more than i'd want to spend, a second hand one will probably have its own set of problems so yeah id just carry on and clean as needed. As long as it's not leaking i don't see a problem. You have filters in the tank and inline. Just make checking the filter part of your regular maintenance and none of the muck should ever find its way to the carbs.
The long black tap that goes below the frame rail unscrews from the fuel tap, this is meant to be removed from the fuel tap before you lift the tank, makes it so much easier, as for the running issue it sounds like fuel starvation, perhaps the fuel line is or vent hose is kinked?
Thank you, they were not kinked, but im having hard time on getting the black part off i think that part is well seized on, though i did strip and clean the rest of it!
May sound daft@ but are you using JIS screwdrivers? A bit of plus gas and the right screwdriver and that should come straight off
The relay is under the seat, get it changed for a L.E.D relay and the indicators will flash at right speed.
Ahh perfect, this might the best option rather than trying to get new old one OEM ones
The flasher unit is not under the seat, it is under the left hand side panel, half-way along the seat. It is a two pin relay unit and is one of the rearmost units under there. LED appropriate replacements are readily available on Amazon.
The pulling away issue you describe is indicative of a lack of fuel, and or, air. If your air filter/inlets are clear, then you may need to look to your pilot jets/circuit being blocked. If the bike is running well over 1/4-1/3 throttle, this would be a good indication of that being the case.
thank you for this. im going to locate that relay.
Im loving these videos being a fellow bandit owner, well done mate
thanks man, i'd rather be a fellow bandit rider! lol
Tiniest drop of oil for the hoses makes it at lot easier LUBRICANT I mean to attach
thanks, ill do that!
Well done, you're making good progress even if it doesn't feel like it.
That round tube thing in the engine case is a dowel. They are used to accurately position the case is all.
Sounds like it needs more fuel if it wouldn't restart without choke when hot. Do as others have suggested and try it without ghe filter and or strip and clean the carbs again.
I know - its a ball ache. 😅
yea, I'm going to have to get a better tank for no filter as i cannot get all the liner in this one out, there's a ton still floating about, I'm hoping to pick one from Wigan tomorrow night.
Undo the 2 bolts so you can rotate the front brake reservoir on the handlebar and turn your steering, Should be able to get the fluid level to top it up.
Perfect, thank you.
fuel fiter is upside down, move the mastercylinder so you can top it up proper.floats height 17mm ,the petrol pipe looks kinked as well ,take the fiter off 600,s dont go well according to forum with them.
yea ill be taking it off, the pipe wasn't kinked, i did check this. and float has been checked at 17mm, thank you
Your not an idiot, it's all learning mate
Cheers man, not the first time and certainly wont be the last!
if you leave the fuel tap on prime then fuel will flow all the time and not only when the engine is running ,check you fuel pipes are now not kinked
thank you, done!
21mm is quite rare on a Japanese bike. Tend to be 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22
The bit on the side cover is a locating dowel. They are normally not that tightly in place (and if stuck, use heat as the alloy will expand differently to the steel of the dowel)
A 4>1 exhaust is standard. But they commonly rust under the engine where the 4>1 section joins the silencer pipe.
Thank you for this. Turns out this was 17 and they were correct. Im now looking for a standard exhaust or one that runs well with the bike.
I can't help you but watch your video to support you. I'm thinking of getting a bike again and do a fixer upper, so I can learn and do some riding next year. looking forward to your next video.
You can do it!
I fitted the same fuel filter to my new bike. Under heavy acceleration, I'm getting fuel starvation. There are specific inline fuel filters for motorcycles that come apart for cleaning though they are a tad bit more expensive.
AHHH so did you change it? and have you a link please?
The fuel system has a vacuum pump attached to it I believe take that fuel filter off and see if it makes a difference also drain the carbs at the bowl check for water or any fuel contamination
thank you, I shall do that.
Air mixture screws are another issue. The change of silencer might mean someone's messed with them. On my bandit, they were set between 1/2, 1/3/4, 2 turns out. The plugs should be between grey and biscuit colour, and the four into one exhaust system is standard
Thank you for answering these. I'm trying to get a standard tail pipe, the plugs are black and I'm taking the carbs off again to go through them with the screw and floats heights this time.
Reckon the carbs are ok,fuel in the oil probably from before you rebuilt them.plus it starts & revs ok could be the clutch slipping due to wear or your front brakes are binding,both will restrict the movement even when on throttle..Ian
Thank you, the front brake seems good, but i need to check that clutch!
Hard to tell without riding the bike but it could be fuel starvation. I would take that inline fuel filter back off, fit a normal fuel pipe in place and give it a run. If still the same pull over and put fuel tap to prime position and try again. Then I would turn fuel off, fit a pipe between fuel tap to a container, turn tap to prime to make sure I had good fuel delivery to the carbs.
@@chrissyb5447 i did mention this before about the filter restricting the fuel flow, the only filter he should fit is the suzuki branded one for mk2 bandits (but bear in they use different carbs)
Issue with the bandits in general, is one hose feeding 4 carbs although i have seen a mod where someone made 2 feeds for each pair of carbs, each fuel seat in the carbs has a 2.2mm hole for feeding the bowls
yea, i think im going to have to take the filter off.
@@newmotorcycleguy do you have insta or another social platform, I can help you miles better! Ashame youtube doesnt have a DM system!
the brake switch is fine just fit it.
Yea, This was like a carry on film!!
Get the fuel filter out it dont need one and its the wrong way
And then re try before you do any thing else at high rpm its not feeding enough fuel in
To the carbs
If you want turn the filter around and try and see what crap you do get in it and then bin it
Just check you have no cracks or breaks in your spark plug leads
My 1200 when it got over a rpm would loss power as it was shorting out and i only noticed as it was dark and saw it arching across
The exhaust is standard 4 in to 1 and the end can just slips on
I would not put lock tight on any bolt and never on engine covers these get hot and expand so as long as its tight and the gasket is good you will not have issues
Keep going
videos are great 👍 wish i could have spoken to you when you had the front brake switch off 😂 gave us a laff
Then i got thinking of all the things i have done so your not the only one we have all done it buddy
thanks for all this. that filter is going, ill check the leads, and lessons learnt! Its just trying to get things done and in order and in the right way. But I'm learning loads!!
Your doing well mate keep it up . Your learning on the go which is great to see. keep it up. Your doing a good job. 👍👍👍Your problem is def carbs . Just keep at it your will get there .
Thanks, im hoping sooner rather than later! lol
The oil can smell of petrol if someone has been trying to start it unsuccessfully and the petrol passes the rings it’s all dead on don’t worry
ok, thank you.
Before stripping the carbs again did it accelerate OK before you put the inline filter on? Could just take it off again and try. The filter tubes on the fuel tap should keep the crap out. But at least it will give you an answer if it is just a fueling issue. As gravity fed make sure your fuel pipes have no kinks now that you have added extra hose. Good luck.
I actually didn't ride it before the filter, so don't know, But i think I'm going to have to try it to be sure. however the tank will not come perfectly clean. I have refurbed the fuel tap and that has new filers on. the fuel tap does run freely, i have checked the plugs and they are black with deposits.
Check the inline fuel filter the arrow should point into the direction of the carbs.
Yea, i' ve checked this, it is in the right way. but ill remove it for now to see if it makes any difference! i think the bike needs a stock or close to stock exhaust.
Sometimes brake fluid gets held up in the brake lines, calipers etc. I would bleed the brakes for peace of mind but it's your bike your call.
Thank you, and i appreciate every bit of advice. At the moment it functions well, but this is a high priority once its running ok.
i'd say plugs will be white/grey, from what you describe it's running lean, dont take the carbs off...tune carbs in situ bolted to the bike
I have had a look at the plugs, they are black. I've taken the carbs and cleaned and ready to go back on. they didn't need it! lol . I'm looking for a standard exhaust.
Fuel filter could be on backwards also there’s a pipe that is under the engine if I remember with a plug in it every now and then take the plug out and see if there’s any water in it. It’s been a lot of years since I had a bandit so my memory isn’t brilliant and maybe someone else can verify it.
Thanks, ill look.
It's easy to overthink everything, most systems work just ok, if it's not broken don't try to fix it 😅 i would remove the fuel filter, bad experience with that things 😮
noted, a few seem to think this. so ill try it.
Vacuum pet tap will not take inline fuel filter.there is only one fuel hose the other is a vacuum hose.
Thank you. I will try it without.
This sounds like a cutch issue to me? Could your clutch be slipping? I had this issue recently with my bike. Easy to spot, if you are riding the bike, accelerate and if the engine revs but the bike isn’t pulling accordingly, then it will be your clutch. Doesn’t necessarily smell and you won’t necessarily notice with the bite of the clutch. Just a suggestion. Great content, I’m learning a ton from your vids mate, keep it up.
Thanks, I have a had few mention the clutch, so im going to get looked at it.
you should recoat the inside of the fuel tank if that is where the crap is comming from i believe you can buy liquid online that you pour into the tank swill it around then leave to dry to coat the tank inside.
I have looked in to this, It would seem many do not work and cause further issues. Plus they are expensive and it might be easier to find a rust free tank.
if you have carbs off again set the airscrews 1and 3/4 turns out from LIGHTLY seated fully in ,easier off the bike.
Thank, this being the mixture screws? just one and three quarters for each? i have seen three and half on a tube vid, and cant seem to find it in the manual?
@@newmotorcycleguy yes in tunnel underneath at front of carbs, can be done on bike ,use a narrow flathead screwdriver bit in a small socket awkward but go gently screwing in till seated dont force em, then back out the number of turns .u got a manual its in the specs at the begining of chapter on fuel and exaust. 2 turns even is ok, u got new filter and cleaned the fk out of tank .should be ok, take inline filter off tho as said and shorten fuel pipe if needed so its not kinked up if needed. u doin well mate the old bandits like tlc and will give back what u put in in spades if u keep up maintainance, easy to work on youself ,u have made a good choice fella.
all the specs are at front of each chapter, i got same one.
Check to see if your clutch is ok (read the manual). the reving and not pulling away could be clutch slip. its hard to say without riding it.
Ok thanks!
If your changing exhaust, you must rejet carbs otherwise it will be too lean and risk burning valves out.
As much as i advise against the inline, be cautious with bends cause that can cause issue also.
You need to balance the carbs as well.
Denso are the better sparks for these, wouldnt touch the iridiums! These engines dont like them very well.
If you shorten your fuel hose on carb side, then use a longer hose on tap side, you can loop the tank hose on top of box to run through the filter without major issues.
You also need to make sure your float height is around 17mm give or take 1mm difference.
Make sure you test your carbs before fitting them to ensure the float needles are stopping excessive fuel cause these are notorious for overfueling and then contaminating your engine oil.
If your ever after spares, i know an amazing person from Pontypridd who has hundreds of spare bits just for these bandits!
Right now I understand ypur proberly frustrated with the bike, but all thata happened is this bike been neglected, get onto facebook groups! Loads of folks will guide you in the right direction.
Be warned though, on the standard carb setup by suzuki, these do have a flat spot around 4 to 5k revs. Once you hit 7k they wake up! 😂❤
Thank you for this. i have had the plugs out, and they look blackened. I'm taking the carbs off again and redoing everything, making sure no debit has got back in, doing the floats and mixture screws. I plan to get an oem exhaust asap when i can source a decent tail end.
@@newmotorcycleguy if the plugs are black, that suggest too rich or not burning correctly, replace spark plugs to eliminate these be faulty.
You just need OEM slip on can as your headers are standard pipes.
The carbs on these are really sensitive, once you sort them out they will be grand.
All that's a part of learning process
haha, i cant believe that break switch!! lol
Check the manifolds for cracks and leaks Pete.
ok. I'm working on the bike now. so that will be first job when i get back in the garage.
@@newmotorcycleguy 👍
Before you go taking the carbs off & opening them up, go back to basics. Sounds like it’s extremely low on fuel, so get some petrol in it. Others have commented on checking for fuel flow with vacuum petrol taps, so disconnect the fuel line from the carbs & follow their instructions to confirm petrol is flowing from the tank. Ensure the inline filter is facing the correct direction. Reconnect fuel pipe to carb & try restarting the bike. See how that goes.
Thank you, ill do all this.the filter may even come off for now. Im looking for a standard or very close to standard exhaust too.
Do yourself a massive favour,,go to Halford and buy one of their Advanced socket sets...seriously good kit that has a lifetime warranty..
Yea, i Need to get something like that. i have looked at them.
22:41 if you had high engine revs but you don't have the speed you expected it could be the clutch is buggered, basically if you accelerate and revs rise but road speed doesn't or does but slowly in comparison to the revs, it's toast 😮
I would need help to diagnose this. It has no issues with gear changes or smells, and lever feels fine.
@@newmotorcycleguy it's generally easy to spot, if you ride up a slight hill in 2nd or 3rd and crack open the throttle and the bike only slowly increases speed but the engine revs go soaring up in a disproportionate way the clutch plates are shot 🤷🏻♂️ of course the engine operation has to be OK and running normally, not bogging down or anything
@@kevindarkstar this makes a lot of sense to me. Judging by the bars, end can, it's a bandit and last owner like to jump it off speed bumps i'm guessing this bike has a few wheelies and burnouts in its past. Bet he sold it when wouldn't lift the front wheel anymore.
EDIT: Forgot to say this so hence the edit.
Dunno if this is a bad way to do it but the way i test a clutch is pull upto a wall, with the front tyre snug to the wall i put both brakes fully on, rev the engine a teeny tiny bit and slowly SLOWLY let the clutch out. A bike with a good clutch will bog and stall or need more throttle to keep running. If the clutch is totally shot you can let it out and keep the engine running with bike not moving.
You can also just use a wall and no brakes or just front brake. Good clutch will spin the tyre, bad will just rev.
It can stress stuff so if you do this and break something or fall off don't blame me.
Making great progress 💪
Thank you!
Also SF PARTS online good for lots of bandit parts and CARBTEC for carb parts if that helps.
Thank you, im trying to get tock exhaust, or close to one.
@@newmotorcycleguy have a look at SF parts ,but u will find origional silencer on line ebay tho what u have is fine lol. sf got Lextek with removable baffles ,i got bolt on one on my 1200 bandit.
@@newmotorcycleguy and ur 4 into 1 on there is standard just silencer isnt, btw
Did you try the bike without the fuel filter to see if there is any change in the running.
thank for the comment. Not on a ride no. but i have checked the filter has fuel running through it, and that its full.
You put fuel filter the wrong way round.the arrow on filter is the flow of fuel to carbs.
Thnk you
Did you check how much oil you should put in on a refill as it's not the bikes total capacity usually somewhere around 500mil less hope you didn't over fill
Yes, i checked the type and volume, plus i changed the filter so it required 3.5L.
Sounds like you have a slipping clutch ?
Im going to investigate this, thank you
give the cyliders a compreaure test to see if it down on comprasion sounds like it to me
I have no equipment to do this, so ill do what i can at home, if not working well it'll be to a gargage
You will have to strip down the carburettors again😅 see what’s happening
done, thank you
Sounds like your clutch is slipping to me
Ill check this.
How much fuel is in the tank ? If low put the tap on to reserve
Not much, but i did have it on reserve. so i think that is ok.
@@newmotorcycleguy if it was on reserve you'll have pulled all the crap out of the bottom of the tank. Possibility blocking the filter?
@@muttznutts7465 that possible, although the tank isn't perfect, I looks good enough for now and the inline filter doesn't look bad.
NEVER EVER PUT THREAD LOCK on ANY engine case bolts OR ANY bolts or nuts on engine.
Thank you. noted!
Mate thinking your an idiot is nothing new to those of us that mess around with bikes the amount of things ive done wrong is ridiculous buuuuut its the best way to learn
haha, yea, cheers man. Had to leave it in though!
Just a quick one, what oil did you use?
it was motul 10/40.
@@newmotorcycleguy not trying to be harsh here, but it was actually for motorcycles, just that there are a few people putting car oil in bikes 😉
il take the noisey exhaust for my bike 🤣🤣
haha welcome to it once i have a stock one!
So what do you think the owners did to keep it running for you to buy it ?
I think they didn't! there is no way this bike ran for a prolonged period without issues. They saw me coming, i blivet the phrase is!
@@newmotorcycleguy Bright side, at least you will know what's been done now.
I don't think it's a carb issue. Id look into your coils or just see if the woodruff key hasn't moved on the flywheel. It maybe a timing issue.
Thia is a little tech for me, ill research this.
Is it me, or does it look like the in-line fuel filter is on wrong way around........
it is the right way around, so it must look wrong on film. but its coming off for now
Replace plugs
They are black, so i think ill need too.