Great video. I just walked in after replacing a caliper on 02 avalanche. Felt the steel brake line to left rear blow during bleeding that caliper. Thought my god that must be impossible to replace, but your concise video gave me hope I can make and route my own cable from the abs unit.
Great video with clear to the point narration without the constant " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," every other sentence. Really appreciated the links to the products. I bought them both and replaced the three piece brake line from the ABS to the rear differential splitter block with one piece of tubing on my '96 Silverado. As you said, very easy to form and route. The first two flares I have ever made in my life turned out perfect! Thanks again.
excellent video! just what i was looking for, now to read the old comments from the highly skilled old men on here with any tips and tricks! thank you!
Have to say of the videos out there this is exactly what I was looking for! There is the right way to do something and the way it gets done. I have been putting off doing a set on my project and this gave me the motivation to do it I honestly appreciate it!
When running the pointy anvil (2nd operation) into the double flare, it's important to not crush it. You want the outside of the flare to be soft and rounded. If it's thin and sharp, you've overdone it and it won't seal well. Personally, I bought the Eastwood flare tool when redoing all the lines on my '85 Parisienne ... and cursed every minute I spent worrying over the $200 price tag. Worth every penny. It's intended to be used in a vice, but you can trap the bottom of it with a large adjustable and use it under the vehicle easily. Perfect flares every time, and no teeth marks to trap crud under the flarenut. My 10 year old cranked out perfect flares first try.
This was the most helpful video I've seen, simple tools and I like the way you work, great video for us average Joe's who don't have all the fancy tools.
Great video! I just replaced the 3/16 inch line from the front to the rear of my Dakota. 29 bends later and two bubble flares with M10 by 1.0 thread tube nuts only to find the 4Lifetime tubing is magnetic. I bought AGS brand copper nickel from a local parts store and re-bent the line two more times. I bent and flared by copying the line I removed from the truck, then snaked the new line in. The quarter inch line with that ABS unit looks far more complicated.
I ordered two new front lines from dealer for my car - but dealer said they can't ship to me because they arrive un-bent...(so I paid insane price for straight line?!), If they have some mechanic bend it to original shape, how hard was the snaking for you to get lines into original positions? I'm looking down through engine bay and in theory I see space, but I see this being a nightmare if the line has all final bends before placement.
The file is good, find a pointed reamer that will remove the burrs from inside the line. If needed you can cut the old tube and reuse the old fittings if they didn't get wrecked when taking them out. On the caliper bleeder rusted in, I have had fantastic luck getting a good socket on there all the way and try tightening it first, just enough to get it to move then loosen it a small amount and work it back and forth a bunch, then back it all the way out. For some reason going tighter first then loose works better than just loosening... also any rub points that are unavoidable put some rubber hose slit down the side and wrap around the brake line then secure it to prevent rubbing through.
Great video was going to use copper for my truck but ended up finding out Canada doesn't allow for copper lines as a fix. Doesn't meet standards I guess and won't pass any inspections down the road. Seen the napa website shows the kit but it's unavailable to buy now. Have to go with the pre bent stainless lines now. Quick note on the tubing just need a pencil reamer for the inside for smooth flow when cutting copper as the tubing cutter leaves a bit of a burr behind. Work as a plumber and we have to ream everything.
i have a 1999 silverado and I'm doing this to mine. but i bought the pre bent stainless steel lines. the whole kit was under 100$ and don't have to flare nothing. yes, it is going to be more difficult this way.
Not a brake job topic, but if you take Off bug spray and paper towel to your headlight lens its will get rid of all that discoloration and yellowing and make them brighter.
Not master cylinder right or front as stated incorrectly at 2:30. Should been stated as proportion valve right or left. Please use correct terminology. These lines run to the ABS pump located under the trucks cabin on the drivers side of the truck. Thanks for your effort posting this video.
Those trucks have horrible problems with brake lines. It is best to replace all the brake lines at once. This is such a problem for 99-07 Chevy/GMC trucks/Avalanche/Tahoes that the dealer makes a pre-bent brake line kit with all the hard lines for your truck and they are coated with a rubberized type coating to prevent this from happening again. The kit is only like $75-$100. I’m an auto technician and I’ve done more of these kits than I can count. But it’s the only way to go because what happens is the minute you replace a line, the pressure just goes to the next weakest link and you end up doing them all anyway.
For sure man, I did 2 at first then 2 more blew and then this one. I think there might be 1 left that I will be doing soon! I am not sure about the pre-bent lines without having a lift, seems like it would be hard to get them installed
@@SSLFamilyDad this brings back nightmares from my shop days. I have a nice cushy desk job now but did a pile of these lines and also the above mentioned kits. Dorman makes some nice stainless kits but you are right the pre bent kits on these avalanches are not fun to route.
@@SSLFamilyDad The right front is the hardest one to install if you use the pre bent kit. I can't even remember what all I ended up loosening and wiggling out of the way to do mine. But it can be done without a lift. I did them in my driveway on an 06 Z71 Suburban. Biggest thing I did was loosen the body mounts and radiator mounts and wedge pieces of 2x4 between them and the frame to give me room to work.
Hi I know this video is old but I wanted to ask I had to replace the front right to abs and one of the reservoir to abs lines how do I bleed all the air out? All four tires and the abs unit? If so how do I bleed the abs unit?
I did all of mine on my 06 Suburban. Used a pre bent Stainless Steel kit. Absolute bear getting them in place. Ya can't lift the bed on the Burb like you can on the Silverado or Sierra.
i am wondering if i could just buy a front line that is already bent ? since i don't have fittings ,flare tool or line... line is really rusty.... first time ever i had this happen... thanks again for sharing.
You can buy pre bent but it is expensive and almost impossible to install. Get the flex line and the tool and do it yourself and save a ton. Links in description
@@SSLFamilyDad flex line??? who sells it...do you mean braided... i saw one that was 60'' all finished with fittings for $22...not sure thats long enough though... i need to replace one line that connects at master and goes about half way under cab a screws into abs box... thanks...Yes a flex line would be way faster /easier to install for sure..
The right front is the hardest one to install if you use the pre bent kit. I can't even remember what all I ended up loosening and wiggling out of the way to do mine. But it can be done. I did them on an 06 Z71 Suburban
So i have to do this job on my 04 silverado ss and its very similar... but right before it goes into the proportioning valve near master cylinder there is a braided section on both lines... i cant find those ones..?
What’s the solution? I’m looking at the same question now. Is that braided part needed or can I just cut it out and use copper nickel line from master to abs?
@Michoacan517 hey man i just ran them from the master without braided. I gave it alittle extra line in case it shifts or anything though. Seems to be fine
so the diameter of a 2001 silverado brake line is the same ??? i think it should be..just asking...i actually never did this before...thanks for sharing.
All was cool except you said left and right as opposed to driver and passenger. I have no idea which one you call left or right. Real bummer. Makes this video, otherwise very informative, useless to me.
Thank you , I busted a line avoiding a deer and was not confident in doing myself until I got a 1200.00 price tag on job. I’ll enter final results ~ later🦾🦾🦾
Great video. I just walked in after replacing a caliper on 02 avalanche. Felt the steel brake line to left rear blow during bleeding that caliper. Thought my god that must be impossible to replace, but your concise video gave me hope I can make and route my own cable from the abs unit.
Great video with clear to the point narration without the constant " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," " GO AHEAD AND," every other sentence. Really appreciated the links to the products. I bought them both and replaced the three piece brake line from the ABS to the rear differential splitter block with one piece of tubing on my '96 Silverado. As you said, very easy to form and route. The first two flares I have ever made in my life turned out perfect! Thanks again.
excellent video! just what i was looking for, now to read the old comments from the highly skilled old men on here with any tips and tricks! thank you!
Have to say of the videos out there this is exactly what I was looking for! There is the right way to do something and the way it gets done. I have been putting off doing a set on my project and this gave me the motivation to do it I honestly appreciate it!
When running the pointy anvil (2nd operation) into the double flare, it's important to not crush it. You want the outside of the flare to be soft and rounded. If it's thin and sharp, you've overdone it and it won't seal well. Personally, I bought the Eastwood flare tool when redoing all the lines on my '85 Parisienne ... and cursed every minute I spent worrying over the $200 price tag. Worth every penny. It's intended to be used in a vice, but you can trap the bottom of it with a large adjustable and use it under the vehicle easily. Perfect flares every time, and no teeth marks to trap crud under the flarenut. My 10 year old cranked out perfect flares first try.
This was the most helpful video I've seen, simple tools and I like the way you work, great video for us average Joe's who don't have all the fancy tools.
That copper nickle brake line is the way to go. Bends and flares easy and you will never replace another rotted line.
It's what the europeans use on all their cars .. no idea why north america is still wasting our time with steel.
@@hydewhyte4364 here in the south we've got 70 year old brake lines that look like new lol
Great video! I just replaced the 3/16 inch line from the front to the rear of my Dakota. 29 bends later and two bubble flares with M10 by 1.0 thread tube nuts only to find the 4Lifetime tubing is magnetic. I bought AGS brand copper nickel from a local parts store and re-bent the line two more times. I bent and flared by copying the line I removed from the truck, then snaked the new line in. The quarter inch line with that ABS unit looks far more complicated.
I ordered two new front lines from dealer for my car - but dealer said they can't ship to me because they arrive un-bent...(so I paid insane price for straight line?!), If they have some mechanic bend it to original shape, how hard was the snaking for you to get lines into original positions? I'm looking down through engine bay and in theory I see space, but I see this being a nightmare if the line has all final bends before placement.
Appreciate you taking the time to make this video! Having this same issue on a 2005 GMC sierra and this information was very useful!
Nice video! Haven't needed to do this yet, but good info. It's basically a smaller version of a lineset for the Condenser unit.
The file is good, find a pointed reamer that will remove the burrs from inside the line. If needed you can cut the old tube and reuse the old fittings if they didn't get wrecked when taking them out. On the caliper bleeder rusted in, I have had fantastic luck getting a good socket on there all the way and try tightening it first, just enough to get it to move then loosen it a small amount and work it back and forth a bunch, then back it all the way out. For some reason going tighter first then loose works better than just loosening... also any rub points that are unavoidable put some rubber hose slit down the side and wrap around the brake line then secure it to prevent rubbing through.
Great tips!
Great video was going to use copper for my truck but ended up finding out Canada doesn't allow for copper lines as a fix. Doesn't meet standards I guess and won't pass any inspections down the road. Seen the napa website shows the kit but it's unavailable to buy now. Have to go with the pre bent stainless lines now. Quick note on the tubing just need a pencil reamer for the inside for smooth flow when cutting copper as the tubing cutter leaves a bit of a burr behind. Work as a plumber and we have to ream everything.
Copper brake lines are illegal in most countries. Copper-nickle is legal in most countries, including Canada.
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
I like you got yourself a disinterested helper. Ready to drive when her age allows😀
Glad to see the avalanche is still alive and workin!
Hi, your link for the Flare tool goes to Led String Lights. Cheers from England.
good job... hope all is well
Es un video muy bueno muy bien esplicado para los que no sabemos como hacerlo muchas hracias.
Great video, short and to the point.
i have a 1999 silverado and I'm doing this to mine. but i bought the pre bent stainless steel lines. the whole kit was under 100$ and don't have to flare nothing. yes, it is going to be more difficult this way.
I know its a farm truck brother, but you need some new tires ASAP! Great job on the video.
lol, for sure, I have put that off long enough I think
Especially after the trailer tire blew up
@@kylancook3477 how’d I forget that? 🤪
Thank you for this video!
Not a brake job topic, but if you take Off bug spray and paper towel to your headlight lens its will get rid of all that discoloration and yellowing and make them brighter.
wow, really, will have to try that because nothing else short of replacing the whole assembly works
Good Stuff!!! CHEERS from westcoast Canada!!!
Really good video thanks!
After the snow and cold this is another reason I'm glad we left Michigan.
It really destroys vehicles!
Salty rust belt , winter is hell on ferrous metals... 🤔✌️💪🙏☝️
Not master cylinder right or front as stated incorrectly at 2:30. Should been stated as proportion valve right or left. Please use correct terminology. These lines run to the ABS pump located under the trucks cabin on the drivers side of the truck. Thanks for your effort posting this video.
Love the video you helped me out so much!
Those trucks have horrible problems with brake lines. It is best to replace all the brake lines at once. This is such a problem for 99-07 Chevy/GMC trucks/Avalanche/Tahoes that the dealer makes a pre-bent brake line kit with all the hard lines for your truck and they are coated with a rubberized type coating to prevent this from happening again. The kit is only like $75-$100. I’m an auto technician and I’ve done more of these kits than I can count. But it’s the only way to go because what happens is the minute you replace a line, the pressure just goes to the next weakest link and you end up doing them all anyway.
bingo! doing brake lines is one of my least favorite jobs as a tech...
For sure man, I did 2 at first then 2 more blew and then this one. I think there might be 1 left that I will be doing soon! I am not sure about the pre-bent lines without having a lift, seems like it would be hard to get them installed
@@SSLFamilyDad this brings back nightmares from my shop days. I have a nice cushy desk job now but did a pile of these lines and also the above mentioned kits. Dorman makes some nice stainless kits but you are right the pre bent kits on these avalanches are not fun to route.
@@SSLFamilyDad The right front is the hardest one to install if you use the pre bent kit.
I can't even remember what all I ended up loosening and wiggling out of the way to do mine.
But it can be done without a lift.
I did them in my driveway on an 06 Z71 Suburban.
Biggest thing I did was loosen the body mounts and radiator mounts and wedge pieces of 2x4 between them and the frame to give me room to work.
I'm having this problem rn 😢😢😢I called like 4 shops they all told me 1100 or so
Good vid well done!
Hi I know this video is old but I wanted to ask I had to replace the front right to abs and one of the reservoir to abs lines how do I bleed all the air out? All four tires and the abs unit? If so how do I bleed the abs unit?
Just crack the fitting at each caliper and have someone press the pedal a few times then tighten it while the pedal is pressed
Thank you so much very helpfull
did you use 9/16 or 1/2 fitting?
I did all of mine on my 06 Suburban.
Used a pre bent Stainless Steel kit.
Absolute bear getting them in place.
Ya can't lift the bed on the Burb like you can on the Silverado or Sierra.
i am wondering if i could just buy a front line that is already bent ? since i don't have fittings ,flare tool or line... line is really rusty.... first time ever i had this happen... thanks again for sharing.
You can buy pre bent but it is expensive and almost impossible to install. Get the flex line and the tool and do it yourself and save a ton. Links in description
@@SSLFamilyDad flex line??? who sells it...do you mean braided... i saw one that was 60'' all finished with fittings for $22...not sure thats long enough though... i need to replace one line that connects at master and goes about half way under cab a screws into abs box... thanks...Yes a flex line would be way faster /easier to install for sure..
@@roadstar499 He is referring to nickel copper line as "flex line". It;s flexible enough.
The right front is the hardest one to install if you use the pre bent kit.
I can't even remember what all I ended up loosening and wiggling out of the way to do mine.
But it can be done.
I did them on an 06 Z71 Suburban
Great Video
So i have to do this job on my 04 silverado ss and its very similar... but right before it goes into the proportioning valve near master cylinder there is a braided section on both lines... i cant find those ones..?
What’s the solution? I’m looking at the same question now. Is that braided part needed or can I just cut it out and use copper nickel line from master to abs?
@Michoacan517 hey man i just ran them from the master without braided. I gave it alittle extra line in case it shifts or anything though. Seems to be fine
you should start with rear pasger
Are the brake line size the same on all Silverado‘s regardless of cab size etc
I believe so, for the 1500 models anyway
Yes.
You can buy them all as a kit.
Is bezos-mart the only place you shop?
Almost
so the diameter of a 2001 silverado brake line is the same ??? i think it should be..just asking...i actually never did this before...thanks for sharing.
I believe it is, yes
All was cool except you said left and right as opposed to driver and passenger. I have no idea which one you call left or right. Real bummer. Makes this video, otherwise very informative, useless to me.
Make America putins again with your trump support 👍🏼
Thank you , I busted a line avoiding a deer and was not confident in doing myself until I got a 1200.00 price tag on job. I’ll enter final results ~ later🦾🦾🦾
I'm old, arthritic, slow and hate doing brake work, but saving money is a very motivating factor!
Great video , thank you !