when you finally get both doors set and operating in the opening without binding, drill a small hole, 1/8" right in the middle of the bolt pattern on the door side through both inner door skin and the hinge. when you take it apart to paint it , it will help re-align it perfectly when you re-assemble.
Wonderful work!! When I grow up I want to be just like you!! To set my door gaps I always start by rebuilding the hinge pins. Very easy job and after 70 years I've never seen one that didn't need it. Next thing is check the cab mounts. Especially the rears.... It helps lift the cab which helps the gap an 1/8 inch. Last hint and I'm sure you're aware of this. It's a standard trick on the advance design doors panels. If you switch the door handle mechanisms between pas and driver (this turn them upside down) it will lower the actuating bar to the horizontal position and fit exactly in that groove which gives you more clearance thus avoids rubbing the door panel.on the inside. Great videos Vr, Robert mason El paso , TX
i had a similar issue. my 51 came with a 52-55 driver door and i needed to replace that same cowl piece as you did., which i tried to convert the door it came with to a 51 door , terrible idea, i found a correct 51 door and had to adjust the door opening to fit the door. Driver door opening ,i found was 1/4"-3/8" different from the passenger side door opening. I had to cut the door seal area on the cab and beat it back to the correct opening ,and reweld. Your door needs to go down to match the beltline , go from there....AND actual fitment, the front edge of the door is supposed to be 1/16" proud of the cab . adjust the hinges as necessary. might even have to resort to wallowing out the hinge at the cab side for adjustment. and even tweak the door a bit with a 2x4 placed and brute force applied to twist the door to fit the cab. happens a lot.
..very interesting resolve to get your doors lined up. Will the rubber installation cause any issues? I'm only asking, because I am a complete amateur. Thanks.
Really wish you would of shown how you were able to get your gap on top of the door and in the top left corner, that's where I am stuck at .. great video otherwise..
The top gap was good, didn't do anything. There is up and down adjustment on your hinges...if you can't get what you need, you can ream out the holes a touch...hope that helps!
when you finally get both doors set and operating in the opening without binding, drill a small hole, 1/8" right in the middle of the bolt pattern on the door side through both inner door skin and the hinge. when you take it apart to paint it , it will help re-align it perfectly when you re-assemble.
It's like watching an artist at work. Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful work!! When I grow up I want to be just like you!!
To set my door gaps I always start by rebuilding the hinge pins. Very easy job and after 70 years I've never seen one that didn't need it.
Next thing is check the cab mounts. Especially the rears.... It helps lift the cab which helps the gap an 1/8 inch.
Last hint and I'm sure you're aware of this. It's a standard trick on the advance design doors panels. If you switch the door handle mechanisms between pas and driver (this turn them upside down) it will lower the actuating bar to the horizontal position and fit exactly in that groove which gives you more clearance thus avoids rubbing the door panel.on the inside.
Great videos
Vr,
Robert mason
El paso , TX
All good stuff...thanks for watching!
Awesome work, master craftsman
Thank you sir!
That is a cool method to get your edge, I've not seen that method before, looking good as always.
old bodyman's trick I picked up years ago...oddly enough, from an old bodyman! lol
I have never though about that surgery had to be done in the body work word, great to know about it, very impressive Dan 👌💪👍
Thanks! Apparently, it's a common issue with these trucks.
Good stuff !!!! i was dealing with some of this today on my 49
Thanks...yeah, these trucks are notorious for this...especially when fitting doors that didn't come with the cab!
Interesting method for a gap! I was thinking that you were gonna grind the doors edge!
The outer door skin is folded over the inner door panel, if you were to grind the edge of the door the outer skin would separate. Thanks for watching!
@@dirtydansrodncycle Thank you! I didn't know that either!
Doing it the right way, thanks!
I'm trying, thanks!
Great job thank you
Thank you for watching!
i had a similar issue. my 51 came with a 52-55 driver door and i needed to replace that same cowl piece as you did., which i tried to convert the door it came with to a 51 door , terrible idea, i found a correct 51 door and had to adjust the door opening to fit the door. Driver door opening ,i found was 1/4"-3/8" different from the passenger side door opening. I had to cut the door seal area on the cab and beat it back to the correct opening ,and reweld. Your door needs to go down to match the beltline , go from there....AND actual fitment, the front edge of the door is supposed to be 1/16" proud of the cab . adjust the hinges as necessary. might even have to resort to wallowing out the hinge at the cab side for adjustment. and even tweak the door a bit with a 2x4 placed and brute force applied to twist the door to fit the cab. happens a lot.
Thanks! I'm all done on both sides now and happy with the result. Judging from the feedback, it's a very common issue with these trucks!
@@dirtydansrodncycle probably 75% or more . lookin good Dan.
..very interesting resolve to get your doors lined up. Will the rubber installation cause any issues?
I'm only asking, because I am a complete amateur. Thanks.
Not at all...the door sizes never changed so the rubbers should fit fine...thanks for watching!
What kind of door gap in size 1/8 , 3/16 1/4 ????
I use a paint stir stick to set my gaps...about 3/16
I am a long way from being a body man but have a question. On the passenger door how do you know if the door is tweaked or the cab is ?
I don't know for sure...could be both. Cab is a '48 from Canada, doors are '52 from the US...maybe has something to do with it, I don't know!
Your very good body man Rick good Work
Thanks! Who's Rick?...I'm Dan...lol
I am sorry I mean Dan
@@charleslacasse3548 lol...no worries, thank you for watching!
Are you building this one for a customer.It’s going to look good
@@charleslacasse3548 yes I am
Great work, did you have to rebuild your hinges?
Thanks! No, hinges are good...nice and,tight, no play at all!
Does body have a twist in i?
I'm not really sure whether it's cab, doors or both...cab is a '48 Canadian built, doors are '52 USA built...maybe something there? I don't know.
Really wish you would of shown how you were able to get your gap on top of the door and in the top left corner, that's where I am stuck at .. great video otherwise..
The top gap was good, didn't do anything. There is up and down adjustment on your hinges...if you can't get what you need, you can ream out the holes a touch...hope that helps!
👍🏻🍺
hope I don't have to do this surgical procedure.
lol...I hope you don't have to either...poor gaps are a common thing with these trucks!