Thank you for this video! Extremely helpful and one of the better explanations on YT! I am curious, you don't mention the striker installation or adjustment. At what point in the process do you deal with the striker? I see that the striker is removed during adjustments. Assuming this happens after all other adjustments? Would love to hear your approach.
Just brought home a '64 Catalina 2+2 from resto/body shop. The gap to front fender is fair, probably should have been wider. I installed new door weatherstrip, but haven't closed the door all the way with the resistance and concern about that fender gap. It looks like it's even closer now. I'm concerned with it rubbing my new paint. Is that accurate, the weatherstrip will push the door toward the fender meaning I need to readjust? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the very clear explanations. The issue I have with my 1968 Camaro passenger side door is that the body shop inserted shims between the upper hinge and the cowl. I am not sure why they put them there (maybe they did not understand the principles you explained). Fact is, if I remove them and fasten the top hinge to the cowl, the lower rear corner of the door comes far out about 7/16". Put the shims back in it still leaves the corner come out about 1/4". Appreciate any advice you can give.
It is possible the door was skinned and with a twist in it . It is possible to twist by rolling window down and placing a wood block in top of rear jamb and putting pressure on the lower part of the door ,but you can also damage worse if not carfull
@@Americansupercar thanks, I was considering this. There seems to be some tension in the lower left part of the pass. door. The glass is coming out before I attempt to reverse the twist. Hope it works, if carefully done.
@Americansupercar I've been looking for this kind of explanation, thanks. But that principle applies for all car doors? I don't have a super car but it's for my cargo van. There is a gap on the top rear end corner that causes loud wind noise. Looking forward for your helpful thoughts. TIA
My door/fender gaps were perfect after painting. One problem is the inner fender wells weren’t installed then. I re-installed them and have struggled with getting the door gaps correct since then. I’m certain the inner fender wells are preloading the fenders and changing the arc slightly. I’m thinking that I will loosen the IFW fasteners, adjust door/fender gaps, then tighten. Thoughts?
Thank you for the video. I have a problem of the door still not sitting right. Placing shims on the hinge to door, does not make any difference. There's a slight difference between hinge to door, which makes me think that either the a-pillar is warped or the doo, worse scenario both. Is ot possible to determine which is the warped part without special equipment? I hope you will be able to help.
The whole door or just the back? You need to look at all the gaps to know what is wrong for example if the back of the door is low the top front will have a larger gap
What kind of car are we talking about ,assuming with Phillips head bolts its a Nova ,if there tight it is difficult to get to the cowl bolts with out removing the fender and you will probably need and inpact screw driver .
First thing I'm the dumbest person on earth mechanical, so. My pt cruiser got hit lightly the bottom door where Mark is ,is in and the top is out a bit . So do I loosten the bottom ?
I want to make the bottom of go in, whilst bringing the top out (i.e. rotate the door slightly clockwise). Would this mean tightening the top hinge, and loosening the bottom?
Just seen this. The rear of the door towards the back wheel arch is sticking out too far at the bottom. The rest of the bottom of the door aligns okay as you move towards the front of the door by the front wheels
@Americansupercar hi the gap is on the rear left door it's like 1 cm and sticks out a bit but the door closes. If I loosen the bolts and push the car door to make it smaller and flush, as soon as I tighten the bolts it goes back to the gap and sticking out. This is a junkyard replacement but compatible years it should fit lol
Im sorry i guess i wasent clear where is it sticking out the whole back of door from top to bottom or lower or upper part of back of door a pick or video would be helpful@herbbot8241
@Americansupercar the whole thing is like sticking out from top to bottom it's not flush and there's like a cm gap it's annoying when ever I tighten bolts it goes back to that position
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Thanks quick clear and to the point didnt have to learn your dogs and aunties names and ancestery . !! good job .
That was the clear explanation i needed for my own project.
Too the point and short and sweet... That is what we like
to the point..good info..a refresher is what I needed
Thank you so much! This Video Saved me a ton of time and frustration. I was getting a terrible whistling noise; now its gone. Thank you Thank you!
Very useful explanation!
Thank you for making this simple explanation!
Thank you. Very helpful. Great explanation. Best I have found, clear precise and understandable.
Thank you for this video! Extremely helpful and one of the better explanations on YT! I am curious, you don't mention the striker installation or adjustment. At what point in the process do you deal with the striker? I see that the striker is removed during adjustments. Assuming this happens after all other adjustments? Would love to hear your approach.
This is the best DIY auto video. Superb
Thanks for this video it helps a lot.
Awesome simple video! Thanks.
Great video. My door is outboard at the top rear and inboard at the bottom rear. I'll try the hinge to door adjustment.
Amazing explication! Thanks for sharing from Brazil!
Just brought home a '64 Catalina 2+2 from resto/body shop. The gap to front fender is fair, probably should have been wider. I installed new door weatherstrip, but haven't closed the door all the way with the resistance and concern about that fender gap. It looks like it's even closer now. I'm concerned with it rubbing my new paint. Is that accurate, the weatherstrip will push the door toward the fender meaning I need to readjust? Thanks in advance.
Good explanation thanks for your help.
Thank you very very much!
Thanks for the very clear explanations.
The issue I have with my 1968 Camaro passenger side door is that the body shop inserted shims between the upper hinge and the cowl.
I am not sure why they put them there (maybe they did not understand the principles you explained).
Fact is, if I remove them and fasten the top hinge to the cowl, the lower rear corner of the door comes far out about 7/16". Put the shims back in it still leaves the corner come out about 1/4".
Appreciate any advice you can give.
It is possible the door was skinned and with a twist in it . It is possible to twist by rolling window down and placing a wood block in top of rear jamb and putting pressure on the lower part of the door ,but you can also damage worse if not carfull
@@Americansupercar thanks, I was considering this. There seems to be some tension in the lower left part of the pass. door. The glass is coming out before I attempt to reverse the twist. Hope it works, if carefully done.
@Americansupercar I've been looking for this kind of explanation, thanks. But that principle applies for all car doors? I don't have a super car but it's for my cargo van. There is a gap on the top rear end corner that causes loud wind noise.
Looking forward for your helpful thoughts. TIA
My door/fender gaps were perfect after painting. One problem is the inner fender wells weren’t installed then. I re-installed them and have struggled with getting the door gaps correct since then. I’m certain the inner fender wells are preloading the fenders and changing the arc slightly. I’m thinking that I will loosen the IFW fasteners, adjust door/fender gaps, then tighten. Thoughts?
👍🏻👍🏻
I have a 67 Fairlane with movable door plates
Thank you for the video. I have a problem of the door still not sitting right. Placing shims on the hinge to door, does not make any difference. There's a slight difference between hinge to door, which makes me think that either the a-pillar is warped or the doo, worse scenario both. Is ot possible to determine which is the warped part without special equipment? I hope you will be able to help.
I have a cargo van that making a lot of noise. Driver side door top has a gap towards the back corner.
I need to raise my left door on my 73 El Comino. Please reply. Thank you.
The whole door or just the back? You need to look at all the gaps to know what is wrong for example if the back of the door is low the top front will have a larger gap
How do ypu adjust the bottom door side hinge being they are Phillips head and half the hinge is in the way
What kind of car are we talking about ,assuming with Phillips head bolts its a Nova ,if there tight it is difficult to get to the cowl bolts with out removing the fender and you will probably need and inpact screw driver .
@@philsomers1772 67 Firebird
First thing I'm the dumbest person on earth mechanical, so. My pt cruiser got hit lightly the bottom door where Mark is ,is in and the top is out a bit . So do I loosten the bottom ?
Awesome man thank you
I want to make the bottom of go in, whilst bringing the top out (i.e. rotate the door slightly clockwise). Would this mean tightening the top hinge, and loosening the bottom?
Need more info are we talking about front bottom rear bottom or whole bottom?
Just seen this. The rear of the door towards the back wheel arch is sticking out too far at the bottom. The rest of the bottom of the door aligns okay as you move towards the front of the door by the front wheels
What if you were replacing the quarter panel? How would you know where to set the door the align the fender and quarter panels?
Change the 1/4 first it will dictate the door location
How about got a big gap and sticks out a little i tried adjusting doesnt work
Where is the gap and where is it sticking out
@Americansupercar hi the gap is on the rear left door it's like 1 cm and sticks out a bit but the door closes. If I loosen the bolts and push the car door to make it smaller and flush, as soon as I tighten the bolts it goes back to the gap and sticking out. This is a junkyard replacement but compatible years it should fit lol
Im sorry i guess i wasent clear where is it sticking out the whole back of door from top to bottom or lower or upper part of back of door a pick or video would be helpful@herbbot8241
@Americansupercar the whole thing is like sticking out from top to bottom it's not flush and there's like a cm gap it's annoying when ever I tighten bolts it goes back to that position
@@Americansupercar if its the whole back of the door you need to loosen the striker pin and move it in ,that should pull the door in
👍👏
Thanks, for the idiot proof explanation...let me see how I screw my project up.😂
The imaginary X thanks!!!
Post some videos of your build 💯
So i Guess is out losing
Joke what policies did they mention that will actually help? JOKE