I don't yet know how true it is, but I am told the notch on the base of the governor engages with the distributor, so as long as the notches align and the distributor has not been moved, retiming shouldn't be necessary if the governor is pulled out. On my own I am noticing the 'rocker shaft' when not aligned with the tabs on the bottom has about 3/8" of left to right play. I have no idea if that is normal or not as none of the manuals I found talk about that, but I do note that if the rocker arm does slide sideways it would jam the throttle in the wide open position. Pondering...
My super A throttle won't rev as I raise the rpm switch. But on the throttle by the carb doesn't move unless I push it in with my hand and it revs. Is there any way to tighten the throttle switch so that it can rev??
You said the spring, while not broken, was very weak? That may be the main issue. Just plain wore out. Also, source the bearings from a bearing specialty shop in a major city near you. Take your old ones to match up, take your housing too if you can. That $41 bearing should be less than $10 I would think.
Nothing looked bad inside. I'd do like you said and replace those parts while it is apart and put it back together. I think the problem is in the linkage adjustment between the carb. and governor. If you go through the procedure for adjusting that I'll bet the problem might go away.
+Chip Wright I followed the Manual and made all those adjustments first. Nothing was out of adjustment or hung up with the linkage, I am positive of that. A few of the guys on the forums said the weights were hung up, I don't see how that could happen but maybe it was as simple as that. It did sit for newly 3 years, so something may of froze up that I freed when I opened it up.... who knows.
Hmm, your gov. looks fine inside and out. Your gov. weights are working as they should. I wonder if the idle adjustment screw on the carb is holding the throttle open too much causing it to run too fast?
+Tiller 1940 No Need to Retime anything, as I did NOT have to actually REMOVE the Governor Gears , no need to do so.. please watch Part 2... I replaced the Spring & Bearing and reassembled it all and it worked out great. Tractor is running perfect now.
Seems to me it is way out of adjustment. With engine stopped you should hold the rod arm in one direction and adjust the yoke on the rod going to carb till there is 1/8 inch gap between the wide open stop pin on carb
I have a question for y’all farmall people...when you push the middle magnet in it makes the 2 weights push out, the bottom one looks like it goes normal but the top does not go out as far as the bottom weight, could that be the problem? I was adjusting my carb on my super a and got it just right and when I increased throttle it did this “waaaWAAMwaaaWAM” (you get the point) 100% sure it’s the governor because I applied even throttle and the linkage from governor to carb did not work even. not sure if it’s the weights but that’s the only thing I could find. Thanks!
+transammike Hey Ol' Buddy, Yea it's been a while... Life Does Get in the Way of Our Fun! You're Right, the Ol' Girl is Pissed Off at Me and so I as Otis Redding would say, would say I .. "Have to shoe Her a Little Tenderness"
I don't really see anything in bad shape. Nothing that would cause your problems. Might try putting it back together before you buy parts just to seel if something was hung up and you loosened it when you took the cover off
I don't yet know how true it is, but I am told the notch on the base of the governor engages with the distributor, so as long as the notches align and the distributor has not been moved, retiming shouldn't be necessary if the governor is pulled out. On my own I am noticing the 'rocker shaft' when not aligned with the tabs on the bottom has about 3/8" of left to right play. I have no idea if that is normal or not as none of the manuals I found talk about that, but I do note that if the rocker arm does slide sideways it would jam the throttle in the wide open position. Pondering...
My super A throttle won't rev as I raise the rpm switch. But on the throttle by the carb doesn't move unless I push it in with my hand and it revs. Is there any way to tighten the throttle switch so that it can rev??
You said the spring, while not broken, was very weak? That may be the main issue. Just plain wore out. Also, source the bearings from a bearing specialty shop in a major city near you. Take your old ones to match up, take your housing too if you can. That $41 bearing should be less than $10 I would think.
Nothing looked bad inside. I'd do like you said and replace those parts while it is apart and put it back together. I think the problem is in the linkage adjustment between the carb. and governor. If you go through the procedure for adjusting that I'll bet the problem might go away.
+Chip Wright I followed the Manual and made all those adjustments first. Nothing was out of adjustment or hung up with the linkage, I am positive of that. A few of the guys on the forums said the weights were hung up, I don't see how that could happen but maybe it was as simple as that. It did sit for newly 3 years, so something may of froze up that I freed when I opened it up.... who knows.
Hmm, your gov. looks fine inside and out. Your gov. weights are working as they should. I wonder if the idle adjustment screw on the carb is holding the throttle open too much causing it to run too fast?
+MrDanoconnor did you have to retime anything after tearing it down that far?
+Tiller 1940 No Need to Retime anything, as I did NOT have to actually REMOVE the Governor Gears , no need to do so.. please watch Part 2... I replaced the Spring & Bearing and reassembled it all and it worked out great. Tractor is running perfect now.
Would this be the same as my 1941 B? Great video thank you.
I Believe so. The B was Basically the same as the A except for the Tricycle Front end. Good Luck.
Seems to me it is way out of adjustment. With engine stopped you should hold the rod arm in one direction and adjust the yoke on the rod going to carb till there is 1/8 inch gap between the wide open stop pin on carb
Update???
th-cam.com/video/vzfddgeUDdc/w-d-xo.html
I have a question for y’all farmall people...when you push the middle magnet in it makes the 2 weights push out, the bottom one looks like it goes normal but the top does not go out as far as the bottom weight, could that be the problem? I was adjusting my carb on my super a and got it just right and when I increased throttle it did this “waaaWAAMwaaaWAM” (you get the point) 100% sure it’s the governor because I applied even throttle and the linkage from governor to carb did not work even. not sure if it’s the weights but that’s the only thing I could find. Thanks!
I think gravity would have a play in keeping the top from going up higher but also it looks like they should be spreading even.
3 years? She's only acting up because your not showing her the attention she deserves! lol Good video, Dan.
+transammike Hey Ol' Buddy, Yea it's been a while... Life Does Get in the Way of Our Fun! You're Right, the Ol' Girl is Pissed Off at Me and so I as Otis Redding would say, would say I .. "Have to shoe Her a Little Tenderness"
I don't really see anything in bad shape. Nothing that would cause your problems. Might try putting it back together before you buy parts just to seel if something was hung up and you loosened it when you took the cover off
+Rdrake1413 Anything is possible... Strange things happens sometimes to mechanical things when they sit so long..