Upgrading the artillery sidewinder X1 and they announced something big!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- This is what i consider essential upgrades for the sidewinder X1.
Ow yeah artillery shared some big news for the future!
IF you wan't to support me then subscribe and like the video.
Buy me a beer 🤟www.paypal.com/paypalme/ogNoi...
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Timeline:
00:00 Big news and intro
00:38 Bed adhesion
02:10 Revisit of the heated bed
02:47 Z-brace
03:29 Spoolholder
03:48 Free fixes
04:16 Lapping/keeping out the heat
04:58 Bi metal vs PTFE
06:28 Nozzles
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Things to buy (no affiliate)
PEI sheet:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Bi metal heatbreak:
www.aliexpress.com/item/40006...
Nozzles:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32839...
Music used in this video:
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Music promoted by Audio Library • Tropics - tubebackr (N...
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Creative Commons - Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported - CC BY-ND 3.0
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#sidewinder #upgrade #3dprinting
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Great information here. I wish I had see this video before I even received my Sidewinder X1 v4. I would like to add that for the PEI sheet ( I use the GizmoDorks one), that I was able to print on it after only a wipe down with IPA, for a glossy bottom finish on my parts, and it worked fine for PLA and PETG. I also did the same on my Genius. On the SWX1, after a few times of using a tool to remove parts that (some stuck down really good!), the glossy finish got slight scratches on it that showed on the parts. So then I followed the GizmoDorks instruction (that would normally be if adhesion begins to fade, but mine didn't just looks), and used 600 grit sanding, which I did with an random orbital sander. Then went to 800 grit, then 1500 grit. surface has a very fine, matte finish that adhesion works great, bottom of parts look great, and the slight scratches of removing the parts are not seen.
Also, if you bed has a dip in the middle, when installing the PEI sheet, just add a 1 to 2" circular disk of regular aluminum foil to the center when applying the sheet. The aluminum conducts the heat, and also shims up the middle. Thanks again for the great info here!
Thanks buddy for the added info!
For the Z support rods use the ones designed for the Creality CR-10S. They're black, smooth and don't make your printer look like it's a cheap piece of crap.
Mine will be arriving next week, really great finding your channel!
Can you please make a video on your printing process from preparing the file to printing it? Thanks!
Have fun with it buddy! Take your time to tinker with it and join the official facebook group where you can find al sorts of troubleshooting. Can't promise anything cause i'm kinda into some projects but it's fairly easy
Great video, i've ordered the bimetal heatbreak and was just wondering if I still need a PTFE tube and if so, how long should it be?
Should the PTFE tube also be tapered like the one in the Prusa Mk3s?
Thanks! It still needs a few centimeters of ptfe tube and you don't have to cut it tapered. Can be a bit tricky to insert filament. Don't forget to adjust the retraction a bit(lower) an use a tiny drop of oil on the filament in the beginning. My powerbank video is done with the bimetal and petg filament.
Can u tell us which filament is the dark blue one u used for the upgrades? Thanks
That will be prusament gentleman's grey pla. For the fan duct i printed a new one in petg as it started to droop down.
Hello, i have juste a simple question : For parts to stabilize of Z-brace you fill the parts 100% or 50%, 20 % for rigidity ? Thank You for you help, i'm novice ;-)
Hi dude, 100% is almost always overkill. If you print petg then i use 25 to 30% cause it doesn't bridge as well and for pla 20%. If you want it to be rock solid i would use 4 to 5 wall lines and 35%. Happy printing!
Thanks for video & Love the music 🎶
I'm deftly in the market for 3-D printer looking at the Sidewinder X1 all set to go but Breaking News Sidewinder X2 need some Specifications 🖖✌👌
Thanks dude! I already pushed artillery a few times 🤷♂️
@@NoizieWorks Yeah I'm gonna wait on Sidewinder X2
The petg doesn't stick too much at the pei sheet? I've seen in some video that the petg sticks a lot to the pei and when you try to retire a print it ends up breaking the pei
You can pull chunks off the printed part if you print with a lot of squish. Pro tip, use some windex ish cleaner that leaves a film. Makes it a lot easier to remove
@@NoizieWorks thanks for the quick response, another question at what temperature can you print with the bi metal heatbreak?
There is no limit with bi-metal the printer however is limited to 270 wich can be adjusted with a firmware update BUT the mosfet on the stock board is the weak link. Can be changed but i have no experience with that
Hey! What kind of tube did you use for the cable which goes to your bed? After seeing Thomas Sanladerer's video about this printer I'm worried my printer will catch fire.
It's actualy one for watercooling but i'm running te cable without a sleeve now. Tape a few spots with electrical tape and good to go. I had a wire break fyi so i replaced them
@@NoizieWorks Have you seen Thomas' Video? He says the wires break because the sleeve makes the cable kink in two spots, and if they break it could cause a fire. I feel like if I tape the spots where it kinks, it would just kink somewhere else and the tube you have in the video looks like it would make the wires bend evenly and still protect the wires. I'm very new to 3dprinting (I own the genius, but it's the same) and I'm kind of scared. Thanks for the advice anyways!
Yup i did and i even commented on it with some advice. Good honest video, the points he made are applicable on all chinese printers in that price range. The real question however is it repairable without to much cost and yes that's why the sidewinder is so good. About the cable, yes the sleeve make's it kink so just cutting it off and replacing it with the sleeve from like a psu would do the trick. I tried with the watercooling tube but it's a bit to hard so i just run it without sleeve at the moment. The electrical tape is just to keep the wires in a nice bundle, taped it every 10 ish cm to avoid kinking and it works great. I plan to do a firmware upgrade with linear advance video so you will see what i did and i will adress some issue i encountered till that day.
I just need time! 😅 I'm slammed at work and working on something i might sell in my country next year 🤫 and cause youtube doesn't pay me i had to adjust my time spent on it 🤷♂️. I have a few weeks off time in December so i'll try to do some vids then.
Thanks for the questions, love to answer them!
@@NoizieWorks Thank you I will defenitely do that! I did upgrade my firmware with 3dprinterbeginner's tutourial, but I don't think I've used it's full potential because I never really used the new features. I've owned my Genius for about 3 months now and I really like it. I'm looking foward to new videos about artillery printers, I'm sure I will learn alot, especially because I often run into issues and this video already helped me with one of them, but please don't burn yourself out with work! Just another question (my overhangs are really bad on all the 3 sides the shroud doesnt blow to): Do I need petg for a new fanshroud or is pla enough? And how did you remove the stock shroud, with heat? Thanks for the help, greetings from Austira!
Thanks buddy, won't happen that's why i'm not doing much for YT right now. I tried PLA but that started drooping after 3 months so petg is the way to go. I gave it a tap with the back of a screwdriver to release the glue put you can use plyers and a bit of force. You can find that fanshroud on thingiverse under sidewinder.
Arrived yesterday my bi-metal heatbreak, but, before mounting it, I would like to know if really works with pla. Before I had an all-metal and I when Everytime under extrusion and heatbreak clog with pla..
I only use it for the hot stuff like prusament petg, i would avoid it if you plan to only print pla and buy 1 or 2 meters of capricorn which is fairly cheap. Just a bit of a pain to replace it with all that thermal paste😅
@@NoizieWorks exactly what I thought 😂 so haven't you tryed the bi-metal with pla?
Nope, most stuff i print is petg. That's why i give a little warning in the vid.
@@chazy10 if you google, there is a chart that shows 250C is about 32C heatbreak which is fine for PLA
Which stl did you use for the z brace ??
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3900714 here you go
Hi thanks for your upgrades. I did't manage to find the z-brace fixing you use in this videos on thingiverse. Can you post the link please ? Tx
Most if not all can be found under "sidewinder" search but here is the link:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3900714
@@NoizieWorks Tx I did search a long time (page 16) but didn't find this one. Tx a lot !
Auto Levelling Bed and I'll buy one, that's the only thing missing for me
Let's cross fingers for the X2 next year!
Are these mods available for the Genius?
The complete extruder should be the same so that's a direct change but the rest has other dimensions but there is a facebook forum for the genius. I bet you can find all the mods on thingiverse
I’m about to invest in an X1 now I’m unsure if I should wait and invest in the X2 any info on this?
The only info we got is that facebook post so if you want it now i wouldn't wait. Could take another year and i'm fairly sure that the X2 will have some growing pains in the beginning.
Noizie Works thats a fair point, and the X1 is a capable machine as it is from what I’ve been seeing in your video and many others, any changes wouldn’t be drastically different I would imagine. Thanks for the response!
can you link the heatbed holder file ?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3721087 there you go, need something else just type in sidewinder.
@@NoizieWorks thanks
I know next to nothing. Is a bi metal necessary if I intend to stick with PLA exclusively?
No, for pla stock ptfe heatbreak is great. This is more ment for hot materials like abs,petg...
@@NoizieWorks Thank you for the info!
Part of me wants to wait for the Sidewinder x2, but I know it is a while off and will probably have some kinks to it.
I asked a few questions but they politely declined to answer 🤷♂️ gonna try again in a few months. But yes i think there will be a few kinks but i don't expect to see huge upgrades. I'm hoping for alu bed instead of the glass, that would solve a lot.
So is this new 3d printer better than the sidewinder x4
The x4 isn't out yet so this is the last version but they made a small updat like the heater wire that has a better wrap around it.
Hoi, ik zag dat je ook Nederlands sprak in de comments en ik vraag me af of jij ook problemen hebt gehad met dat je filament van kleur verandert in sommige stukken van de print.
Hey! Yup, kan meerdere dingen zijn maar nummer 1 is dat deze te warm kreeg door waarschijnlijk te hoge print temperaturen of deze heeft te lang blijven zitten door een gedeeltelijke verstopping die zijn eigen oplost tijdens het printen. Gebruik je hoge retractions of te hoge temps? Kan zijn dat de PTFE in de heatbreak gesmolten zit en moet vervangen worden. In de "review" van de x1 toon ik hoe je de extruder volledig van 0 opbouwt.
@@NoizieWorks ok thanks, ik zal het gaan nakijken.
Ender CR6 SE or Artillery Sidewinder X1 V4?
I would need to get my hands on a cr6 to know 🤷♂️ sorry dude
@@NoizieWorks Thanks.
Hi , thank you for your Sidewinder X1 videos, I was about to buy an Ender 5 Pro, but in the end I'm going for the Sidewinder. Hope it's a good choice, seems better than Ender 5 Pro. Great job, thank you for your work.
It's not perfect but for the price a great starter with a lot of upgrade potent. Thanks for watching and the kind words dude!
I just got mine set up a couple days as my first printer. Still getting things tuned in and figuring this whole thing out but gotten some promising results so far.
Did you buy it and are you happy with your sidewinder ?
At the moment i think it's one of the best budget machines you can get with a huge community to help if there is a problem
A strong recommendation I would add in here is removing the cable sleeve on the heated bed, as you can see clearly at 3:53 it kinks in specific places and this WILL destroy the cables at those points. Carefully cut and remove that sleeve and either replace with something braided or just leave them open with some cable ties to keep them together.
Yup! Thanks for the info
@@NoizieWorks Some people cable tie a piece of filament or PTFE tube to the cables so they make a good arc, i recommend a long and flat cable tie instead (so cable tie the cable tie to the cables lol)
I was going to mention it on the next vid as i did it with a bit of electrical tape here and there buuuut i'm working on a little workshop so 🤤🤤
I keep getting clogs once I switched to bimetal heatbreak
How much retraction?
None of your Aliexpress links work anymore. What actual part name or search text would work instead?
🙄 they keep making new listings, you can find most under volcano hotend/nozzle or v6 hotend for the heatbreak.
You can look for trianglelab on ali, they make cheap and high quality stuff
would be nice if the x2 was bigger and had 2 direct drive extruders
Dual drive, alu bed and auto bed leveling would be the cream🤞🤞🤞
@@NoizieWorks meh, I level my bed once in a blue moon and adding an auto leveler would just add to the cost. I'm really not looking to spend more than $500 for a new one.
Yup me to but if you look in the facebook forum then you see it 3 times a day that people still don't learn to level there bed properly 🤷♂️ for them it would be a nice upgrade. I'm in contact with them to see if they could hook me up with the new x2 for review but i'm afraid that i'm to small of a channel for that stuff ☹
Oh your good, competition on youtube....
Why is the pei sheet and upgrade? I have one on my ender 3 and find the ultra base type coating on the swx1 to be just as good if not better.
Cause the bed on the swx1 starts to loose it's magic over time. I had to many first layer problems at the end and had to babysit every print on first layer. Also the uneven heated bed can make your prints warp, the pei helps to grab it and prevent it. If you go to the forum on facebook then you will see that the biggest problems are prints not sticking or sticking to much(most of them are new printers) and ripping out chunks of glass but there are people that have good results with the stock bed. It's cheap and it works every print with all the types of filament without hairspray,glue sticks or painters tape.
6:20 Narrator: "Please note that your results may vary on this very subject."
6:23 Background music lyrics: "Never make promises..."
I see what you did there! Nice!
Nee maar effe serieus. Heb je express gedaan, of niet?
Totaal niet 🤫 was mij zelfs niet opgevallen maar kijk het is lekker toepasselijk 👍
... or you could just get a Prusa and not have to upgrade anything... 😅
Yes you could but it's still bigger and cheaper then a prusa after the mods. I am however tempted in buying a clone 🤔
@@NoizieWorks true that. For people like us it's also fun to tinker, tweak, and troubleshoot, hehe. Prusa is darn nice, though.
Z-Brace and 2.5kg PLA on Top of the printer......priceless!!!😂😂😂😂😂
The crazy part is it works😅
Noizie Works it will work even better without 2.5kg on the top! Maybe without Z-Brace!! !!
Sure but not everybody has the option for another spool mounting solution. It's good to have options 😉
Great video for us poor unfortunate souls who already own one of these junk printers. If you're in the market for a machine like this, do yourself a favor and buy a CR-10 v3 that comes with an authentic Titan extruder. My Sidewinder has been an absolute pile of garbage in comparison to my Creality machines.