The Artillery3D Sidewinder X1 3D Printer - A Must Have?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ย. 2019
- Evnovo / Artillery3D has the Sidewinder X1, a large format 3d printer that seems to tick all the right boxes. Great print quality, quiet, easy to setup and use, great support, great community - but, I had a problem...
Artillery3D Sidewinder X1 at Amazon:
geni.us/sidewinderx1
geni.us/sidewinderx12019
at Aliexpress (click link, click Product, click 3D Printer):
artillery3d.com
at Gearbest
www.gearbest.com/3d-printer/p...
LINKS FROM THE EPISODE:
Creality CR-10 - Is It The Best 3D Printer? My Review
• Creality CR-10 - Is It...
3D Printing 101: How To Fix Bad Bearings on a 3D Printer
• 3D Printing 101: How T...
3D Printing a Self Watering Planter and Getting Help from Anne Of All Trades
• 3D Printing a Self Wat...
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Am I the only one who couldn't help but smile seeing filament just "coming down from above"?
I've had my Sidewinder for over a year now and I love it! I went pretty much straight to an all metal hot end, and it has been fantastic! Im still learning all about 3d printing, but I love it! Ive been quite worried a couple times that is stopped printing when I was in another room. That goes to show how quiet it is!!!
Got my Sidewinder X1 last week, first thing i did was replace the tube in the hot end with the Cap. Tubing. Printer has been awesome .
Got a link for where you got the ptfe tubing?
Hug each other more? Oh the naïveté of 2019.
Joel you are awesome, and so its your editor. All your last videos have an amazing editing quaility. My congrats for you both
Finally! Hoped for long that youre gonna review this machine.
Yours is the third and most comprehensive video review of this machine I’ve watched. Every single user had a different issue that needed addressing. I wonder if troubleshooting would be beyond a beginner like me? Thanks for taking the time to go back and update before posting.
Joel, the production if your videos is evolving and is top notch, thank you
Thank YOU!
Thanks Joel, saved me today when the PTF tube clogged, thanks again.
I got one of these a couple months ago, and I was at first super impressed. I was printing PLA and PETG parts like a champ, and the setup seemed basically bulletproof for about 3 weeks. However, I am an engineer and I really wanted some durable functional parts, so I decided to try Nylon. This became a massive problem with the stock extruder, but not for the reason you might think. I was cautiously printing around 245-255 not wanting the PTFE to break down but I actually had the ribbon cable on the X axis fail not once, but twice. I've also had the vertical axis cable fail once though this was from the bed rubbing on it and can easily be fixed with some tape. I'm not new at all to 3D printing, but I am new to modifying my printers, and in my attempt to modify the extruder and replace the heatbrake I ended up snapping it off in the volcano style block in an attempt to clear a jam in a really cheap chinese heatbrake. This was entirely user error, but I will say it is a bit of a PITA to replace the extruder because of how little room there is to turn it and the wires are rather stiff, meaning I was constantly afraid I'd break them. In fact I did break the thermister by twisting the wires a bit too much, and the sensor came free of its casing.
Things I like: The AC heat bed heats up stupidly fast even to 90C or above. Super quiet. Direct drive is a big plus for me, I've had little to no stringing issues. Customer service is very nice and sent me free replacement parts like the cables. Thermal runaway enabled by default. Really reliably prints PLA/PETG. Bed surface worked awesome with just hairspray. Can print really fast, I default all my PLA prints to 90mm/s. Volcano heat block compatible with large nozzles to make better use of the huge volume.
Issues: Reliability of the cables. Occasionally I'd have a random thermal runaway error stop a print even with it working fine before (early sign of failing cable?). Short fragile wires to the board on the extruder. Annoying spoolholder. Firmware default will max out at 270C, if you replace with all metal you pretty much must modify that.
I'm sure once I have my all metal setup running and do some PID tuning it will become a workhorse again, save maybe for the cables. But they aren't too hard to replace and I probably got through 3kg of filament before my first failure. I've successfully done some 8 hour plus prints and had no issues with PLA and PETG. If all you print is below 230C on the nozzle then it is a beast of a machine. But if you want to print Nylon without mods and don't need the build volume or huge nozzles, a Prusa may be better. I've got a thermister, a microswiss all metal heatbrake, and a genuine E3d Volcano block on order. With those I bet I'll have a much better time with high temperature printing and be loving this thing again.
Thank you for your honest review! This printer is on my radar for awhile and now I'm convinced this is a proper buy.
Have you tried it out yet? If so, how is it?
Is it good?
I'm excited.. I bought one a few weeks back and waiting for it to show up
Thank You so much for this video! Great info about this printer. I just ordered mine and it should be here this coming Friday.
Of course. No wonder my car wrecking company called Bomb Parts failed.
Awesome job Joel and Sean... Keep up the great work! 🤚
Christopher Estelow thank you!
hello i'm from Portugal, i had the same problem with my first 3d printer, this in 2015, i was still noob in 3d printer, but i already knew a little about 3d printers i think i lost half a day to deal with the problem, but I had spare parts of all kinds, so it was easy to replace, this can be a big problem for those who buy for the first time and do not have spare parts
I really like your videos, keep up the good work
big hugs
from Portugal for you and your entire team
That wall is so beautiful that you just HAD to keep it in focus on the A roll. :P
Yoo been watching this guy for the last 3 days for 3d printer reviews cause he the realest.
Ok honestly you devin and makers muse are my top thee go to channels I learn the most from you guys I’m not just learning with every episode I’m also being entertained in the sense I’m having fun learning haha 😊😊😊
Thinking about getting this printer. good review, thank you! I saw your brother in Thailand on U-tube
Hi Joel, thank you for your review.
I recently received this printer. I purchased a refurbished one. I was blown away by the quality of the prints I am getting. Unfortunately it continually quits mid print due to thermal runaway being triggered. I have tried to contact the Artillery website, the Ali Express store, and the person that shipped it. The latter being the only one that responded. I changed the ribbon with the provided spare. (That connects the gantry to the base). It has failed twice with in a couples hours on the second print. Is there anything you can do to help? I really like this printer and just want to keep it running without errors. Thank you, Chris
@@chrisclair4951 I don't have this particular printer but if it keeps happening mid print have a look at the print fan speed settings in your slicer. It might be increasing the fan speed at a certain layer time which may be blowing on your hot end causing it to cool down and not be able to keep up. Try decreasing it by 30% and see if it happens again
@@tcw95NZ thank you! I'll give it a try. I've never had that problem on any of my other printers. I use Simplify 3d and haven't set up any incremental fan changes. I'll double check to see if they were in the x1 profile I downloaded.
@@chrisclair4951 It would also probably help to tune the PID for the hotend with the fan on. Assuming the printer runs Marlin firmware, you can send M106 S255 to turn the fan on. The number after the S is the fan speed. It is a PWM value though, not a percentage so 255 is 100%. I would set the fan to whatever percentage you most commonly use. After the fan is on send an M303 command. That would go something like this: M303 E0 C5 S200 U. This will autotune your E0 heater (the hotend) at 200C (S) for 5 cycles (C) and then enable the new PID settings (U). If those settings work you can send M500 to save them to the firmware. You would do this through a slicer or some other software that can send Gcode commands to the printer. You can also put all of these commands in a text file (each one on its own line and in the order I put them in) and save it as a .gcode file instead of a .txt file then run it from the SD card.
@@chrisclair4951 post in the official facebook group. Artillery are very active there and usually try to help
Thanks for the printer review! Great editing and info!
Daniel .Power thank you, and thanks for watching!
My Artillery Sidewinder has been working fantastic. Had only one fail when the print came of the bed. So far, I am very happy with it
Thanks for the additional information. I was considering this in addition to/replacement of my CR10S Pro because of all the trouble I've been having with mine. But I've had to tinker so much with my printer that I'm just about done with tinkering with printers for life and I don't care to tinker with yet another one. I still need to add mod to syncronize belts like this one has.
I had a similar problem with my Anycubic. formatting the Stick/SD Card solved the Problem. 😬👌
Lovely, got it a few days ago and i just love it !!!
i just recieved one for printing nhs visors and its been amazing, i just ordered a second one
Really nice to find my chainmail design in the video! I completely agree with you, there is room for improvement with the chainmail print quality, but I'm quite sure it's alls about the slicing settings. Hardware looks really good!
Do you know if I could make a custom size of it?
I prefer ptfe-lined hotends especially for PLA. Using a high temp PTFE like Capricorn is the way to go. It handles PETG like a champ as well. Great review but as others have mentioned, if you wait longer than a few months to review a printer, maybe consider exchanging it for a new production version or build both (if the first one is from early production) for a comparison (my preference). Early adopters benefit by seeing the improvements to implement by viewing a current production model, and prospective buyers see what they are actually receiving with a current production model.
Just a quick add-almost all the issues have been addressed in their updates. Spool holder adaptor for bridging the gap is already on Thingiverse FYI there are at least 2 versions out now so no need to make your own. One update that just isn't good, the flat ribbon no longer has a positive lock on the newer models (not sure why they did this) but the caveat is that now you need to print a cable stay to avoid it coming loose (on carriage) over time with use which can cause all types of issues. Great Video as always!
Wow. I had this exact type of nozzle blockage today on my original CR-10. Pain in the ass to fix.
Downside is the model you have is pretty old alot of the negative things you touched on have either been fixed already, or dont exist anymore. Anyways, you might want to double check the bore on the nozzle- earlier versions had a few that were shipped with 3mm nozzles instead of 1.75. As usual Joel, great video but the information (for the most part) is outdated now. Ive had machines now in the fixed v1 (post evnovo logo), v2's, and v3's and am glad to report they are the reason our Prusas are starting to collect dust. Reach out to the community (or me even) if you need anything brother.
Do you recommend this one over the creality CR's?
Tell me more.
Thu Nell Ⓥ V4 has the reset button just to the right of the LCD. I don't know of any way to determine the other versions.
I'd recommend to upgrade to Capricorn PTFE on any Boden extruder or wherever it might be used!
Thanks! Great and balance reviews as always.
Great review Joel, well done.
Joel,
I truly appreciate all opf the great work you do. As a newbie to 3D prionting, the information you offer is very helpful.
There are however so many printers to choose from, it's hard to decide which one may be best.
May I offer a suggestion? A car TH-camr called Doiug De Muro gives each car a Doug Score. He gives points for a variety of features etc. It's very helpful, as it seperates the wheat from the chaf.
I think it would be great if you printed the same standard file for each printer you test and rate the time taken, the quality of the results. Also value for money/cost, pros and cons, ease of assembly(if appropriate), build volume, before and after sales support and whatever other features you deem important. A standardized 'test', would make it much easier to hone in on which is the right printer for your application.
My Ender 3 Pro had problems to. Changed the heatsink cable with the Apricorn one and happy life since!
Thanks for all your great videos--big fan. I started all of a sudden getting clogging on all my prints with my Genius. Filament just stopped coming through anywhere from 10% to 50% of the job during EVERY print, and in prints that had worked fine many times before. Typically the printer was continuing, "printing" in thin air with no filament coming out. I found that I could often get the filament to start flowing again by pushing the filament through from the top by hand (although the print was already ruined).
So far this sounds like the situation I´ve seen in many videos on TH-cam, but wait...
1. I´m using an all metal heatbreak, so no PTFE anywhere down where the filament is molten, and I changed the heatbreak and the nozzle several times. Also, this happens with 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. I´ve also done several cold pulls, even with nylon as you suggested in another video.
2. Whenever this happened the extruder gear was just wearing away the filament as it turned in one place until I stopped it (that´s where all that ash-like dust comes from). I tried adjusting the spring tension on the extruder gear, but teeth marks on the filament could be very deep or hardly visible and it didn't make any difference.
3. I used filaments I had successfully used before (all PLA), even new ones still in their sealed plastic bags.
4. I reduced the retraction from 5mm to 2mm.
5. Of course, each time I checked that the filament spool was spinning freely.
So, anyone have any comments or suggestions?
I like the review and the set. I really feel like Joel has been coming into his own too.
I wish more of these reviews included basic information though. Like if it runs on 24V. If it has power failure saving. Etc. A lot of PC tech channels display what common features something has or doesn't have on screen so that you don't have to go over every one point to point, but people who are watching get the information quickly. I know we could look it up but... I'm watching youtube at 11pm with an adult beverage, that is work!
Good work and I like seeing honest videos like this.
Hey, that’s a fantastic idea! I’ll see what we can do.
It is 24v, It does have power resume, and yes it has filament runout protection. also the bltouch can be adapted to it easily and cleanly. been running mine for a month now and it is still printing beautifully.
Thanks for the info Joel! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Hey Joel, when the gcode is acting weird like that, it is usually the memory that is at fault. Try a different USB drive and I bet it will work. :)
I will probably get this printer. I like to tinker. I like the large build volume. Should be fun. Thank you for the video.
I just got my printer in the mail (369.00 US), and I'm waiting for my filament to arrive (should have ordered them BOTH at the same time)! I will have to check out that tube and see if I need to replace that after I start printing. P. S. This is the first printer I've ever had! Thanks for the great video!
My current and only machine is optimized for high speed, big parts, and ABS, but not surface quality.
I saw another prominent review of this one and thought it would be an ideal companion to the one I already have.
Now that I see the downsides of the X1, it doesn't look perfect any more, but looks like it still works for me very well.
Thanks, this is good stuff.
Awesome vid man
Also the "don't forget to hug each other more" comment cracked me up since of Covid
The Monoprice Mini select was designed like that. My first printer. It gave me problems too. Good for learning how to work on them though!
If I didn't already have a CR-10s modded with direct drive and tuned to high heaven I would get this printer in a heartbeat. The sturdier build, encased base and electronics and how insanely quiet it is makes it, probably, one of the best printers you can get for the money right now.
I am currently awating delivery of this printer, I have heard a lot of good stuff about it, and as you mentioned some not so good stuff, but the not so good stuff isn't that bad
Nice Sidewinder review! The newest version 4 is available from AliExpress only and only when you pick Shipping from the China warehouse. It has a reset button next to the LCD panel as well as other improvements. The version on Amazon is Version 3. They told me directly. I was thinking of adding this printer to my arsenal as well.
Looks like a great value proposition
I like the honest review.
Interessting conclusion about the teflon tube, i had the same problem but after a nozzle Switch its were gone, too.
The bigger problem for me is the hotend heater. After 3hours of printing, right after calibration, the heater did go south. And with the connector type they thoose for the transition pcb i hadnt the right one to crimp another heater to it! The choosen connector is the JST 3,96mm and as far as i know there is no manufacturer who is making thermistors or heaters with this kind of connector. The way better way for a plattform would have been to choose the same connectors as E3D (micro-fit 3.0) to have a easy swappable ecosystem!
The USB thing (I mean the motion during skirt layer you talk about) is something usual when you don't have CRC check while doing memory read. For example it should parse the g-code line like G1 X30.000 but due to read error from USB it sees G1 X(something unusable) so it interprets it as zero or something else that is incorrect so it goes to another position then reads the next line of g-code correctly and goes to correct place after that. to reduce the possibility of this issue you need to reformat the USB stick and recreate the file. I have had this issue many years ago when I was designing and making my own 3d printer.
Hi first of all I’d like to say fantastic video
Second I hope someone will be able to answer If you bought a 3D printer and the temperature maxed out at say 250 degrees would it be possible to increase the working temperature to that what is needed to print using a higher temperature filament just an honest question
Great Fuzzy Video good information , was thinking of getting this machine but decided not to, Reason cutting corners is a pain, not interested in rebuilding a machine, so I guess not for me.
The issues seem to have all been addressed with later revisions.. the sheet metal cutout, the odd movement at start with USB drive, and I just left one side of the spool holder slightly loose so you can just slide it to fit the other spool.
Hey man, I met you at maker faire and I was super nervous talking to you but I just wanted to say thanks for being cool. 😁
Thank YOU for finding me and meeting me! #highfive
Nice and fair review
Thanks for sharing :-)
great vid Joel
I've been printing with my cr-10 with abs at 355°c with no problems at all it's enclosed as well.
I just ordered one of these a few days ago
That’s funny I found that deadpool model a short while ago and the print came out really well. Printed it with a reflective copper color
For the spool holder just righting the half with the sensor. Then loosely tighten the other side. Then you should be able to slide it back and forth to fit different size spools and the holder not move. I have this machine and that is the solution that works for me.
@
3D Printing Nerd In regards to the spool holder. How about changing the hex bolts to Wing nut style bolts so you can just use your fingers to adjust it?
I just bought a dual z upgrade for my cr10 but now I'm thinking I might try and attach a belt to the top to connect the 2 threaded rods like this printer. Seems like a pretty useful idea
Great presentation. Got to love our Chinese friends and their mockery of mainstream components.
I like this machine and have to change Bowden tube out is no big deal but I would like to see more machines coming out with auto bed leveling.
Hey Joel you have a link for the Capricorn ptfe tubing? cheers
Captubes.com
hey I bought this printer shortly after your first video on it and I've noticed some differences, most notably that all of the 3d printed parts on Joel's machine are injected molded on mine, the fan that's mounted on the side of the aluminum body on Joel's printer is mounted on the bottom of mine, and the filament runout sensor is different. from what I can tell these changes were made to fix known problems, like broken printed parts, loud side fan, and a bad filament runout sensor. I hope this was helpful for anyone planning to buy this printer.
Wwwww this is the first printer I have seen! I wonder if they made them any better 😳
Love the disclaimers :D
Just bought one of these today.
Did we ever get a follow up video or message about this printer? I'm just now joining the 3d printing space and am heavily considering buying this one.
I have a question concerning the X1 V4. I have one of these and I am really happy with it for the most part. One thing that I found is that my extruder stepper motor is running at 70C which I am sure is too hot. However I also noted that the aluminum plate that holds the wheel on the x axis gets over 50C. This temperature delta by my calculations could cause the wheels to move over 1mm further appart which I am sure would cause some degradation in print quality along the Z axis. My question is what is the temperature that your extruder stepper motor is operating at? Yes I adjusted the roller tension. What I also found is that this unwanted excessive heat causes the cold end to get hot enough to deform the filament profile, cause jams and damage the PTFE as well.
An all metal hot end with bond tech extruder and bl touch would be great addition for this 3d printer .
Love your Videos huge fan! I was wondering if this was the sidewinder x1 v4 you reviewed? I know you stated that there are newer models but I figured id ask.
I really like the X and Z axis cable management on that machine. I wonder how long the ribbon cable will last though...?
I just ordered the new hermera for this printer and already fixed the holder this printer has been as quiet as the original prusa and same print quality and hopefully now much better on soft tpu filaments as well I dont ever use filament runout sensors as I feel if someone needs that they cant do basic math and I may switch over to a removable bed surface and this printer will be a large print volume that can handle it all
Spool mechanism in this is similar to Prusa’s first design. Good idea but bad execution. Love you Prusa and no hate on any of the printing companies
As always amazing video and your timing could not be better I just order one yesterday version 4. I'm hoping that most of the issues in the video have been addressed. I would love to see how difficult it was to replace the TPFT. If they gave you a spare then they knew this was an issue. Did it come with instruction on the procedure? Maybe before I start putting it together I should just replace it as well. FYI - I've seen forums that state they have changed the HotEnd already to the premiere version doesn't seem like it was a problem to do. Anyway, thank you for the review it was great!
Were they?
Can you elaborate on "what" you specifically changed to improve the mini Joel?
Focus damnit :) Your camera focus is on the back wall instead on Joel.. just saying.. a bit annoying. Otherwise thumbs up!
He really needs a camera man...
It's not like he has one...
We could continue this ;) I mean.. it's not like anyone is moving here.. put it on manual, focus on Joel.. set it and forget it.. what seems to be problem here??? Did the cat bump the tripod? jeeez :D
"Focus, ya fuck!" -ave
I check my streaming resolution thinking it hadn’t yet kicked up to 1080p but yep, it was, and out of focus.
Good review! I love this printer but have a problem with the height... is there any way to move the spool to one side?
At 4:49 you mention Filament Fremzy's Prusaslicer profile for this printer. Do you have a link to that? Thanks!
Hi
BlackDragonBE!
Did you find the profile by any chance?
also looking, haven't been able to find it either
Anyone find the profile? Family bought me this Sidewinder for Father's Day, woohoo !
Awesome video!
Hi Joel,
I have the same printer, but I have got the version 4 (at the time of writing, the latest version).
In this printer I have, there is no problem with the sheet metal anymore, the holes are just big enough to use the SD card or USB stick. Also, the USB stick GCODE behaves just the same as the SD card GCODE, I guess that problem is also fixed (or at least, I don't have that problem). When I bought the printer, I levelled the bed, I didn't do anything about it since and now, about 30 prints later, it is still a perfect level as it should be.
The spool holder at the top, yeah. That's a problem. I don't like it that much, but it's not a big thing. The cable restraint still is not good, you have to print your own part to make it better and the hot end still uses a low cost, crappy PTFE inner liner tube. That said, I print NGEN filament at 250C all the time with this printer and I don't believe at that temperature, on the nozzle, the PTFE tube is going to be exposed to a temperature above 230C. I can only tell what the outside of the heatbreak shows, but on the thermal camera, there is a difference of more than 30C between the hot and cold side, seen from the outside.
I don't know if I will make a video about this printer yet, as I am very limited in time lately, but I just wanted to tell you this.
Thanks for your great reviews and other video's. As always, greetings from the Netherlands.
Print this mod for the spool and you wont need to ever move it again. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850399
Hey Joel,
Can you do a review of the Two Trees Sapphire Pro CoreXY printer?
Tony
I need some advice .. been watching your channel for some time now and my Raise 3D printer has been having issues lately. It’s a 2016 model and I believe its a hardware issue. I need to purchase a new printer with the same print bed size ,. Roughly 12x12x12. What printer do you recommend ??
That's odd, because I just got mine and have never printed anything in my life before.. I set it up and in 40ish minutes I was printing. I now have 50+ hours and zero failures.
Thank you. I just bought one, how do I know what version it is? Any videos on how to replace the PTFE tubing?
Yah I'm getting mine in three days!
I have been trying to find something to use Garrett's Chaos Red filament for and I think dead pool is a perfect use for this, thank you for that inspiration.
Where did you get that model?
Hi Joel , can you tell about P-I-D temperature setting too ?
I really don't know how can I fix it to print better or perfect .
Thanks and I hope you always be okey 😁👍
I kinda want one of these. I love my CR10 but for it to do ABS it would need a bit of work. I have my i3 mega set up for ABS but it can't do large prints. This machine however could with an enclosure. Of course I would upgrade that hotend though.
Great Video! I'm going to buy a 3d printer after a month or so that's why I turned to no one but Joel the 3D printing nerd and I want to ask you for a recommendation because I'm stuck between ender 5 pro and SW X1 at the same price so which one would you recommend
My question I hoped you'd get to: given the similarities to the CR10, which is better? (Or even, what are the differences?)
Hey love the show great job also I have a question I'm having no luck connecting to my new creality cr-10s pro I'm trying to update the firmware I thought I downloaded the right driver but it's not working so I'm thinking it's not the right one so any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated thank you
Great review. How would you compare this X1 vs the Creality CR10S pro?
That back wall is in clear focus...
I cant find someone told you this before ... At the back of your Heatbet, the orange silicone/rubber like material is the important thing of the bed ... At your printer it doesnt stick to the bed, so it is useless... Just press ist to the Glass. I got mine today and it sticks perfect after a bit of pressure... Maybe you have to glue it otherwise