⬇️ If you want to support me. You can find affiliate links below. ⬇️ 🔎 eSUN Filament on Amazon:🔎 *eSUN PLA+ (Amazon GER 🇩🇪 ): amzn.to/34fLmx1 *eSUN PLA (Amazon US 🇺🇸 ): amzn.to/3mdgrrp *eSUN PLA+ (Amazon UK 🇬🇧 ): amzn.to/2FRtYoY 🔎 Get Prusa printers and Prusament:🔎 *shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=WF3D 🛒My prop stores:🛒 ETSY Store: www.etsy.com/shop/wf3d/ Cults3D Page: cults3d.com/en/users/WF3D/creations 🌐My social media:🌐 Twitter: twitter.com/WF3Dprinting Instagram: instagram.com/WF3Dprinting/ Website: www.WF3D.de You can find the bed leveling file here on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614
Thank you so much! I just purchased a Sidewinder X1 and absolutely love the machine, however am dealing with a bed issue. After watching your excellent video it appears this could be the problem I’m experiencing. Thank you again for sharing!
@@WF3D Das TH-cam Kanal HeimWerke hat schöne Alu Guss Betten installiert gehabt. Das letzte Video von vor einer Woche hat einen Alu Guss Bett mit integrierten Magneten. Sieht sehr gut aus. Das Heizbett kostet aber ~ 85 Euro, dazu kommt natürlich noch ein magnetisches Dauerdruckfolien von circa 35 Euro.
Hello sir Yes I did fix the problem. It was a failure with the factory glass bed, there was a significant negative recess in glass bed. To put it simply, it wasn’t flat. I purchased a new glass bed and replaced.
@wf3d 9:00 hehe, du hast ja einige Benchys gedruckt, wie man im Hintergrund auf dem Regal sehen kann. Ich habe auch die 2 mittleren Rollen entfernt, so lassen sich alle Rollen (nun 4) viel einfacher justieren und der Wagen wackelt nicht mehr. Zusätzlich habe ich von Federn auf Silikonzylinder umgestellt. Das war damals alles sehr nervenaufreibend als Anfänger bis die Ergebnisse zufriedenstellender wurden.
This is my first 3d printer. I've had it for over a year, but have not used it a ton because I felt like no matter what I did I couldn't get could quality from it. Plus even with a bltouch I had issues with it not being leveled, filament being higher or lower on parts of the first layer. Layer lines have been uneven for me for a while. I'm now going to try upgrading to polycarbonate wheels, I hope it solves my issue.
What I would have done to check for bed flatness first would have been to use a straightedge on the bed. If the bed is warped you'd see light between the straightedge and the bed in certain orientations. If the bed was flat then it would have been some other issue. I'm wondering why printer manufacturers have moved away from the old method of using cylindrical bearings running on steel rods (like you see on the Prusa i3 and on my Wanhao i3) - are the cylindrical bearings and rods that much more expensive, or are the rods more flimsy, especially when you have a large bed like this?
Yeah I did that, but as no bed is perfectly flat you always see some gaps (light). But it's hard to tell if you do not measure it if this is the issue or not. Yeah V rollers + extrusion are cheaper and in my opinion much more forgiving if you have very high tolerances in your manufacturing process.
1:45 One look at the gaps in the lower surface tells me the nozzle was way too far from the bed. Of course adhesion will be bad. With a small surface like this it does not matter whether the bed is straight. Just level your bed so that the nozzle is close enough and there are NO GAPS on the first layer.
@@WF3D Hi, yes that was my solution when the original bed of my x1 was curved and the replacement took ages to arrive from china during the height of the first corona wave. Of course this is only possible for smaller prints, such as the one you show here. The first layer clearly has gaps. You should always watch the first layer and if it has gaps like this, you need to do proper leveling and start again or else it will not stick.
@@fishbong Yeah I know what you are pointing at. But the fact is that the bad already was leveled. I know leveling locally is a temporary solution but that's not what should be done. In fact I leveled the bed before that print (before knowing that specific error otherwise I would have watched the first layer ofc). So naturally you would assume that you can print now. E.g. I never watch the first layer on my prusas except I am switching materials where I adjust Z live. The Artillery doesn't even have that feature, you always have to rotate the knobs, which is a pain to use. :(
Thank you. Was the issue right out of the box or did it develop later. I've had mine for three weeks and it started having issues in the center like it warped away from the nozzle.
Hey man, I am also working on making the printer really working nicely and I already got rid of some junk, which didnt make any sense. So I replaced the drivers after the burned out after 3 days of use -_-, installed a cooling system underneath the printer to keep these really cool and threw out the filament sensor aswell as fix the filament somewhere else than the top. But I still have some issues. My Bed is also non planar and the wheels have rings in them too. So the bed will be swapped for an aluminium one. I also dont like the extruder, so Im gonna probably swap it out completely, still looking for a suitable drop in replacement... but the most important issue to me is, that the z Axis, after letting the printer alone for a bit and then trying to move the axis‘ , if I press the 10mm up Button for the z axis it makes a horrible noise and somewhere the axis jams. Ive lubricated it plenty and checked the rods but it seems like there is some overall issues with the mechanics. Do you know about these Issues aswell? And have you fixed them perhaps? Let me know and Ill be waiting for your next videos. Greetings from Germany :)
Hm I never had heard of that issue and didn't have it myself. But if you swapped out the drivers I think this has something to do with them. I guess acceleration or speed on the 10mm is pretty high and the drivers you used might not be suitable or set incorrectly. Did you use original replacement parts?
@@WF3D i use tmc 2208‘s in legacy mode so Just a drop in replacement. They didn‘t work flawlessly on 1V Rms so I put it up to around 1.15-1.2V. I know that this might be giving the motors too much current and therefore burn the flatcables, but I monitored the head dissipation and all seemed good sith a peek of 32 degrees C. I think the Problem relies on the way the rods are attached to the tool carrier. If they don‘t move for a couple of minutes they maybe roll down a bit on the rod, or maybe it sets itself in an uneven position and so it jams a bit when its being moved again. Still have to find out for sure, bit thanks for the response! :)
It would be good to point a FLIR camera at the plate to see the temps and their evenness of distribution on the topside rather than at the thermistor location.
On visual examination, my plate doesnt go up and down along the y axis, but my print has constant, regular horizontal lines . Not sure if a flat roller would cause that. ..Any thoughts. ?
So it appears there is no need to buy a new heater when replacing your bed? I am upgrading to an aluminum bed, and assumed the heater would be destroyed when peeling it off, or if you you did get it off-- the adhesive would not stick well a second time. But your video suggests otherwise
No, because I wouldn't too. I am not sure if you got the message of the video right. This video should help to resolve issues for owners of the printer. The issues with the rollers could come at any time, if you rollers are too tight. And then you might need to fix them, it's a spare part. On other printers over time your steel rods might to wear out and you need to replace them, so thats kind of the same thing. I didn't buy this one and I also do not give any buying recommendation here. There will be a full review about the printer in the future after I have made more prints summing that all up.
@@WF3D Do not get me wrong. Not a criticism of you but if the video starts with you replacing the printer bed the first thing I think is that I have no intention of doing the same on a NEW printer.
Yeah, definitely right. That's nothing you want on a new machine. Kept my friend from using it. A real show stopper for someone who is new to 3D printing
@@WF3D i bought this printer a week ago (still havent recived it). Does it come with the even bed that you have used to replaced the uneven one already now? Or will i have to do the replacement too?
⬇️ If you want to support me. You can find affiliate links below. ⬇️
🔎 eSUN Filament on Amazon:🔎
*eSUN PLA+ (Amazon GER 🇩🇪 ): amzn.to/34fLmx1
*eSUN PLA (Amazon US 🇺🇸 ): amzn.to/3mdgrrp
*eSUN PLA+ (Amazon UK 🇬🇧 ): amzn.to/2FRtYoY
🔎 Get Prusa printers and Prusament:🔎
*shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=WF3D
🛒My prop stores:🛒
ETSY Store: www.etsy.com/shop/wf3d/
Cults3D Page: cults3d.com/en/users/WF3D/creations
🌐My social media:🌐
Twitter: twitter.com/WF3Dprinting
Instagram: instagram.com/WF3Dprinting/
Website: www.WF3D.de
You can find the bed leveling file here on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614
Thank you so much! I just purchased a Sidewinder X1 and absolutely love the machine, however am dealing with a bed issue. After watching your excellent video it appears this could be the problem I’m experiencing.
Thank you again for sharing!
Hopefully it can be resolved!
Did you fix it?
@@WF3D Das TH-cam Kanal HeimWerke hat schöne Alu Guss Betten installiert gehabt. Das letzte Video von vor einer Woche hat einen Alu Guss Bett mit integrierten Magneten. Sieht sehr gut aus. Das Heizbett kostet aber ~ 85 Euro, dazu kommt natürlich noch ein magnetisches Dauerdruckfolien von circa 35 Euro.
Hello sir
Yes I did fix the problem. It was a failure with the factory glass bed, there was a significant negative recess in glass bed. To put it simply, it wasn’t flat. I purchased a new glass bed and replaced.
@@joshuameldru4004 Interesting. Yes I'll he getting an aluminium bed with integrated magnets :)
@wf3d 9:00 hehe, du hast ja einige Benchys gedruckt, wie man im Hintergrund auf dem Regal sehen kann. Ich habe auch die 2 mittleren Rollen entfernt, so lassen sich alle Rollen (nun 4) viel einfacher justieren und der Wagen wackelt nicht mehr.
Zusätzlich habe ich von Federn auf Silikonzylinder umgestellt. Das war damals alles sehr nervenaufreibend als Anfänger bis die Ergebnisse zufriedenstellender wurden.
I have to use a brim for articulated objects. Someone suggested using Z Hop when retracted.
This is my first 3d printer. I've had it for over a year, but have not used it a ton because I felt like no matter what I did I couldn't get could quality from it. Plus even with a bltouch I had issues with it not being leveled, filament being higher or lower on parts of the first layer. Layer lines have been uneven for me for a while. I'm now going to try upgrading to polycarbonate wheels, I hope it solves my issue.
Did it help? I was thinking of doing the same thing.
Looking forward too your next X1 video
Thank you!
Excellent discussion and much appreciated 👍 Which replacement poly V-rollers would you recommend?
What I would have done to check for bed flatness first would have been to use a straightedge on the bed. If the bed is warped you'd see light between the straightedge and the bed in certain orientations. If the bed was flat then it would have been some other issue. I'm wondering why printer manufacturers have moved away from the old method of using cylindrical bearings running on steel rods (like you see on the Prusa i3 and on my Wanhao i3) - are the cylindrical bearings and rods that much more expensive, or are the rods more flimsy, especially when you have a large bed like this?
Yeah I did that, but as no bed is perfectly flat you always see some gaps (light). But it's hard to tell if you do not measure it if this is the issue or not.
Yeah V rollers + extrusion are cheaper and in my opinion much more forgiving if you have very high tolerances in your manufacturing process.
Nice vid. Clear. Question : Where do u buy the NEW V-rollers ?
Depends where you are from: 3Djake, amazon, ebay. There are plenty of options
what is the stl for the test you did in red around the 2:40 mark?
You can find the bed leveling file here on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614
FYI the new build plate heater pads have a different location for the cable, so every cable brace I found did not fit for this.
Thank you for this video! Would it be possible to have a link/reference for polycarbonate V-rollers?
Hey check out this blog. He has a link to the polycarbonate ones :) 3dprintbeginner.com/sidewinder-x1-upgrades/#Polycarbonate_V-Slot_Wheels
@@WF3D Thanks buddy :)
Hey, thanks for sharing this. What cooling settings are you using with PLA?
100% after 2 layers :D
2:38 can share .stl file or gcode print test ?
it is in the pinned comment: You can find the bed leveling file here on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614
1:45 One look at the gaps in the lower surface tells me the nozzle was way too far from the bed. Of course adhesion will be bad. With a small surface like this it does not matter whether the bed is straight. Just level your bed so that the nozzle is close enough and there are NO GAPS on the first layer.
So your solution would be to level the bed only for the area you are actually printing on? And when you go with a bigger print then what?
@@WF3D Hi, yes that was my solution when the original bed of my x1 was curved and the replacement took ages to arrive from china during the height of the first corona wave. Of course this is only possible for smaller prints, such as the one you show here. The first layer clearly has gaps. You should always watch the first layer and if it has gaps like this, you need to do proper leveling and start again or else it will not stick.
I recommend live leveling btw.
@@fishbong Yeah I know what you are pointing at. But the fact is that the bad already was leveled. I know leveling locally is a temporary solution but that's not what should be done. In fact I leveled the bed before that print (before knowing that specific error otherwise I would have watched the first layer ofc). So naturally you would assume that you can print now. E.g. I never watch the first layer on my prusas except I am switching materials where I adjust Z live. The Artillery doesn't even have that feature, you always have to rotate the knobs, which is a pain to use. :(
Please help me, this is my first printer (the X2) and it will not print anything other than a cube. Everything is levelled. I’ve had enough
Thank you. Was the issue right out of the box or did it develop later. I've had mine for three weeks and it started having issues in the center like it warped away from the nozzle.
Yes it was right from the beginning
Hey man,
I am also working on making the printer really working nicely and I already got rid of some junk, which didnt make any sense. So I replaced the drivers after the burned out after 3 days of use -_-, installed a cooling system underneath the printer to keep these really cool and threw out the filament sensor aswell as fix the filament somewhere else than the top. But I still have some issues. My Bed is also non planar and the wheels have rings in them too. So the bed will be swapped for an aluminium one. I also dont like the extruder, so Im gonna probably swap it out completely, still looking for a suitable drop in replacement... but the most important issue to me is, that the z Axis, after letting the printer alone for a bit and then trying to move the axis‘ , if I press the 10mm up Button for the z axis it makes a horrible noise and somewhere the axis jams. Ive lubricated it plenty and checked the rods but it seems like there is some overall issues with the mechanics. Do you know about these Issues aswell? And have you fixed them perhaps? Let me know and Ill be waiting for your next videos.
Greetings from Germany :)
Hm I never had heard of that issue and didn't have it myself. But if you swapped out the drivers I think this has something to do with them. I guess acceleration or speed on the 10mm is pretty high and the drivers you used might not be suitable or set incorrectly. Did you use original replacement parts?
@@WF3D i use tmc 2208‘s in legacy mode so Just a drop in replacement. They didn‘t work flawlessly on 1V Rms so I put it up to around 1.15-1.2V. I know that this might be giving the motors too much current and therefore burn the flatcables, but I monitored the head dissipation and all seemed good sith a peek of 32 degrees C. I think the Problem relies on the way the rods are attached to the tool carrier. If they don‘t move for a couple of minutes they maybe roll down a bit on the rod, or maybe it sets itself in an uneven position and so it jams a bit when its being moved again. Still have to find out for sure, bit thanks for the response! :)
It would be good to point a FLIR camera at the plate to see the temps and their evenness of distribution on the topside rather than at the thermistor location.
Thank you!!!! I know now what problem i have!!!
Cool! Glad it helped!
On visual examination, my plate doesnt go up and down along the y axis, but my print has constant, regular horizontal lines . Not sure if a flat roller would cause that. ..Any thoughts. ?
What do you mean by horizontal flat lines? Like squishe layers along the hole part ? Then it could be more likely an issue on the Z axis
I bought 1 hoping to print it does not work 😕
Genius!! 🙌🙌👍👉
That would be the other printer by artillery 🤣
@@FuriousImp 🤦🏻♂️😂
So it appears there is no need to buy a new heater when replacing your bed? I am upgrading to an aluminum bed, and assumed the heater would be destroyed when peeling it off, or if you you did get it off-- the adhesive would not stick well a second time. But your video suggests otherwise
It worked perfectly fine for me. I think you need to make sure it is perfectly cleaned and also the material is a similar as the original
Thank you very much, had the exact same issue.
Glad it helped
Do you think that after spending over € 300 for the printer I am willing to take it apart and replace some parts with new ones?
No, because I wouldn't too. I am not sure if you got the message of the video right. This video should help to resolve issues for owners of the printer. The issues with the rollers could come at any time, if you rollers are too tight. And then you might need to fix them, it's a spare part. On other printers over time your steel rods might to wear out and you need to replace them, so thats kind of the same thing. I didn't buy this one and I also do not give any buying recommendation here. There will be a full review about the printer in the future after I have made more prints summing that all up.
@@WF3D Do not get me wrong. Not a criticism of you but if the video starts with you replacing the printer bed the first thing I think is that I have no intention of doing the same on a NEW printer.
Yeah, definitely right. That's nothing you want on a new machine. Kept my friend from using it. A real show stopper for someone who is new to 3D printing
Tolles Video
Danke!
So you replaced the bed with the same type of bed, no upgrade??
Yeah that was under warranty of Artillery. Did not want to spend $$ on this one.
What does it mean if it prints the first layer hood but on the second and third it starts going back down and hits the bed
Would goes that something is wrong with your z axis, maybe your couplers or motors? But that's really a hard guess
Could you share the profile?
What file did you use for the bed level test?
I made that myself. Do you need it?
@@WF3D well If you can share it? I have also A sidewinder.
Same here. I’m very new to 3D printing and would very much appreciate it
@@benjamindekker2305 Hey, I uploaded it to Thingiverse! www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614 Have fun!
@@seanklein Hey, I uploaded it to Thingiverse! www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653614 Have fun!
Very helpful!!
THANK YOU
but why did you replace the bed?
Because the bed was a bit uneven. Artillery also sent a replacement for the bed. That was before i discovered the issue with these rollers
@@WF3D i bought this printer a week ago (still havent recived it). Does it come with the even bed that you have used to replaced the uneven one already now? Or will i have to do the replacement too?
@@bestiarara I don't know :D but this was an old version. Just check it when it arrives
@@WF3D the one you used to replace the old one is made out of glass?
@@bestiarara both are made of glass
I enjoyed your video +1 Subs
Thank you!
I think it's only yours who has these issues. Bad luck. I got several of these and zero issues.
Quite a lot of work and money for an inferior solution. MBL anyone ?