Good to see “Neighbor Engineer Chris” helping analyze and solve issues. He has a wealth of knowedge and interesting insights. “Cool” project and yes, I’m sure my AC condenser needs a good cleaning. Blessings.
Do not block off the fresh air intake or change the % of recirculate vs fresh air. There is a lot of testing that goes into this as the only way to pressurize the cab is to bring in fresh air. a cab that is only recirculating air will not be pressurized and will actually bring dust into the cab.
You forgot the most important thing, paint the top white! Years ago I had an AL roof on my 33' Class A motorhome. The inside used to get quite hot and the AC struggled to keep up. I then painted the roof white (RV roof paint) and it was amazing how it cooled down the RV. I also installed white reflective shingles on my house, again amazing difference in the attic & how much cooler the attic is now. I notice CT school buses have the roof area where the kids are painted white but over the motor it's painted flat black, I gather for easier starts in the winter. So... I suggest to paint one roof white, let them cook in the sun & see how much cooler the cab with the white paint is, my guess 30 deg cooler!
I am amazed that you had to do so much work to get your air working cooler. My LS has a recirculate button and when you put it in recirculate you can be so cold in a hot sun day that once you have it cold go back to fresh air and you stay nice and cool all day. And as far as the heater in the winter goes, I have spent 4 hours clearing snow on a 10 degrees below zero F wearing only a shirt. Had to ditch the coat once it warms up, about 15 minutes, and you're warm as toast.
It is only an issue in the Deep South and on crazy hot days. We are being ‘perfectionists’. You’ll see that a lot in JD owners. We expect the best. If something is just ‘ok’ or ‘marginal’, we’ll see what we can do to make it better.
Tim you need to consider Ceramic tints if you don't want the dark hard to see tint. Ceramic tint comes where it blocks all the uv you don't want but is virtually invisible or slightly darker than the windows themselves..you don't have to get the really dark stuff to work anymore
A slight overcharge of the AC system will drastically improve the temperature of the air from the vents. Ensuring the condenser and evaporator coils are clean is very critical when doing this because you don't wat to have excessive head pressure. I found that adding a few extra ounces over the total factory charge weight will lower vent temperatures approximately 6 degrees making a significant difference especially here in the deep south. There is no danger when doing this if done correctly. You need to recover the factory charge and weigh in the new charge adding the extra ounces when doing so. As Chris stated you are looking for a designed subcooling and with any system that uses a refrigerant there is a + or - tolerance. Doing this is simply adding a degree or two inside the allowable tolerance of subcooling.
Ceramic Tint is the way to go on the windows. I have put ceramic tint on all of the windows of my last 2 trucks (including the windshield). The amazing part is that I have not had to clean my windshield of the off-gasses from the dashboard in years. Ceramic tint is amazing and you can get it light enough that it does not hinder visibility in the cab.
One thing that needs to be addressed, at least on our 3046r, is how so much dust gets around the filter. After a shredding, even for just a little bit in a dustier environment, my evaporator coil has dirt and dust in it because it gets around the bottom of the filter. It seems to have to do with the filter cover not pushing it down evenly to form a good seal to the back of the cab. I think that would help with maintenance of cleaning that extremely thick evaporator more often than necessary. Thank you for this video. The struggle is real. The Lord Bless you and your family!
Hi Tim! Great idea with the foil insulation if there is an air gap below it. I wouldn't give 2 cents for it's R value though...Foil works great to stop radiant heat and the greater the temperature difference between the two sides, the better it works. Stopping heat from radiating down works best. We checked the temperature in the attics of two identical houses in the same subdivision on a hot summer day - one house had regular OSB on the roof and the other was foil faced on the bottom side. The attic of the foil faced OSB house was about 20 degrees cooler... I think most of your heat gain that you will feel in a tractor on a hot summer day will be radiant heat to your head. The increased R-value for the conductive heat will be primarily from the air in the bubble pack part of the insulation - not much... I really appreciate your videos! Very informative! Thanks for all you do to help others. Love the Bible verse at the end too - great reminder of the source of all truth!
When I’m done with the machine for the day I hose the cooling pack out with a garden hose, and let it sit all night so it will be dry in the morning. Works great on the excavators at work!
Just picked up a new 3039R. Dry excited but one thing we purchased for was the ac and dust reduction in the summer which we haven’t experienced with this tractor yet obviously. Might make some of the things you did a winter project just to stay ahead of the issues.
I did the same seals and added insulation (not the same as yours) about two weeks ago. Next time you are out tractoring for a couple hours on a hot day, reach down and touch the metal by your seat, the floor mat, and the steel under that mat. Very hot and a huge source of cab heat IMO.
@@TractorTimewithTim sounds good I'll look to see what you did. I covered mine about 10 months ago and I will be curious if there are any similarities.
Do current model cab tractor air conditioner systems not cool as good as current pick up trucks if the filters are clean? To compare on a recent day I checked my 3500 black exterior color crew cab diesel. Conditions full sun 2:30 EDT, air temperature 91 F three feet above the weathered "light black" asphalt my truck after a 30 minute drive and stopping in the parking lot had a center AC discharge air temperature of 46 f after 5 minutes on max cooling. When put on automatic HVAC setting at 74 F the front seat temperature was able to maintain 74 F. I was happy with the truck AC. Will a modern cab tractor AC system not be similar?
Hey Tim: As to your window film on the tractor, Id suggest Ceramic tints. How they differ from normal tints is that they reflect up to 95% of the heat, while keeping a clear unshaded window. Yes you do have the option to dim it down, but as you mentioned, that makes to tough to film thru a darkened window. I own a Transit 350 and it has a hugh heat sink for a front window. We found that the surface temp stays lower which in turn allows the a/c to work alot better.
Your custom air tool, seal the end, not bent, take tube and drill small holes in it. about 1/2" apart. about 4 holes total, start small enlarge holes as needed.
I got the windows tinted on my 3039r (I’m in central FL) and it made an amazing improvement. I also use spray no-rinse evaporator foam cleaner on the evaporator coils and fins and suck the excess out with my shop vac. This helps if I don’t want to take the roof off.
Look into a tool called an air comb. It is the same idea as the tool you have except it is a straight piece of tubing that is capped at the end that has several holes drilled in the side of the tube. It’s very compact and effective.
All great ideas, Tim and Chris. Hopefully, someone at Deere is watching so Deere can do all those upgrades at the factory. The price you pay for a new tractor you shouldn't have to re-engineer to improve it. Just saying 😅.
Tim my Kioti does have recirculate switch which works well. I have no problem keeping cool even on hottest day here. I’m obviously in Michigan so we don’t get the heat at like south but still get some really hot and humid days. I do use the radiator Genie after every time I do any field work and think that is key as you mentioned to help keeping air flow. I also gonna tint windows also but never had any problem keeping cool so far. Great video a lot of talk on this subject right now. 👍
A/C on my 3033R has always worked great in the heat of Summer. Most important , keep Freon properly charged, and filter , evaporator, and condenser clean. cheers!
Tim, 2 things..... 1) They make a clear "tint" that blocks 85% of the heat and UV !!!! I have it installed on the huge (6" x 8' ) windshield on my RV. 2) Back in the 80's, I worked for a custom harvester and we ran JD equipment. We were in the JD House one day getting some service work done and we thought we kept the condenser coil clean up in the roofs, The old man JD mechanic took a bottle of Windex with Ammonia-D and poured it over the coils and then poured cold water over the coil. The blackest nastiest water came out of the drains and it was the coldest combine AC out of 6 machines. Needless to say, the next rain day all machines got the same treatment.
In my opinion using recirculate air would make the biggest bang for the buck. Just like in a vehicle, when it's really hot it'll either automatically (or manually in older vehicles) switch thus making a drastic difference in cooling. You're basically making the whole AC system more efficient by not trying to continuously cool 100+ degree air. The cooler the cabin air becomes, the more efficient your AC will operate. I'm surprised they don't build this into the design from the factory. It's really auto AC 101.
A thermal camera for testing would both ease your project with visual representation for you and give a much easier to understand picture for the viewers. With all things involving temperature control, it can be divided into two categories; insulation and efficiency. Make the a/c more efficient and insulate from outside influences. The easiest way to increase efficiency is insulating the system itself as you have, decreasing refrigerant cooling loss like insulation on the lines and increasing air flow through the condensor. I would be quite curious how much of a difference swapping the mechanical fan altogether to a high cfm electric would be. As it wouldn't vary air flow by rpm it would maximize it at low speed. Just an idea.
if you want to not allow outside air in....... put syran wrap from the kitchen aroud the cab air filter.... if you change your mind it only cost you the cheap wrap.
@@larrybecker9645 is better than blocking passage indefinitely first off..... secondly..... when it's not warm enough to run the a/c..... you can run that tractor endlessly .... and not check out....... I've lived in day cab trucks with air-tight cabs and no a/c.... haven't checked out yet
The condenser is larger in the new tractor because the new refregerant (R1234yf) needs a larger cooling area to provide the same cooling performance as the older (R134a) systems.
Absolutely excellent video Tim. Really a lot of great information packed into this video. I see those Larsen lights on the old 3520. I ordered a set of those lights from Larsen yesterday as well as a rear camera setup from them for my 3046R. I have a couple threads on GTT all about the different exhaust which includes several pics of my vertical exhaust on my 3046R and 4066R. I had my windows tinted with a ceramic 80% film meaning I have something like 90% UV and heat rejection but only 20% darker then clear or stock glass. That has helped a bit with my AC cooling. I think when I have the top off my 3046 to install my wired HD rear camera setup, after seeing this video, I think I will get some of that insulation as well as check all my foam seals. Very good info all around for cab 3 and 4 series owners.
On our forklifts that were diesel and cabs most were we had maintenance install shutoff valves in heater lines to keep heat from going into the heaters in the summer time. And once installed we drivers could open and close them when needed. Nothing like burning your leg in the summertime. We also would remove the doors, unless it would rain all day.
I finally got a little Kabota tractor! I’m part of the tractor gang now. Haha. When buying the tractor I brought your name up and he watches you also. I got it with a bush hog for my landscaping business. That little tractor worked perfectly for my new 11 acre property I got this year. Now I need a finish mower too. And a grapple bucket, stump grinder, box blade. I got a lot of catching up to get where you are.
@@TractorTimewithTim it’s bx2670 A older gentleman owned it but hardly used it. 2014 with 124 hours on it. Haha thanks for the correct spelling I had just used voice txt and that’s what it spelled for me. She’s tiny but perfect for what I needed it for.
I would love to have a before and after video on how the modifications performed. Can you undo everything that you did and test the before, and then redo all of your hard work for the after? 😁. Nice work gentlemen. Stay Safe!!!
Great information! Great video! Suggestion: With Chris's body/paint skills, lay up a very simple curved fiberglass shell approximately the size of the cab roof. (Nothing pretty, but painted green. This is just an experiment after all.) Mount the shell to the roof using adequate short - maybe one inch - stand-offs and rubber gaskets. In effect, the shield will absorb most of the solar gain The air-space between the roof and the shell will not only shield the roof from direct solar gain, but it could/will provide additional protection for the roof and additional mounting points for accessories if designed accordingly (eventually). (For an even more aggressive experiment, cover the shell with a mirror reflective wrap. Or, how about solar panels to be ESG/DEI-correct?! No?? Save some green paint.) If it works, and if production is contemplated, final design could include a variety of enhancements, refinements, and capabilities.
Hi, my idea , is to paint the roof White or at least the center and leave the margin John Deere Green. If you could get it to stick, you could even use that white ceramic roof coating. This might not be practical but we're just throwing ideas out there, right? Im positive your insulation probably made a couple degrees difference. If a little is good, more is more gooder. Nice video🌬️
Tim I think that deer designed it the way they did to keep those relays cool and not blowing and putting the tractor down for hours a relay puts off a lot of heat and need the airflow to keep cool
One other thing to check is the sealing surface between the cabin air filter and the intake itself to make sure there isn't something that could cause a gap between the 2 mating surfaces because any gap could allow more dust to get past the filter. Another thing that might help to keep the dust out from the internal stuff is to cut a heppa filter and place it behind the main filter to help filter out even more of the fine particles.
Added that roof insulation and it does help out big time in this tractor cab. This is a must do Next thing that we will do tent the windows.@TractorTimewithTim
Good ideas there Tim on extra cooling. Having trouble with my 2019 4066r AC, lost freon, appears to be under roof, will trouble shoot for leak. Another problem is Deere tech manual and also parts list doesn't cover an extra line added to the control head of the TXV (H block expansion valve). Can't get any info. about the modification from Deere or dealership, tried many times, very frustrating. Think I figured out what they are doing, but would like confirmation from Deere. Nobody else, truck, car, tractor does this with a H block expansion valve that I can find, appears to be a Deere thing???
done a lot of this previous one of the ways i checked the roof seal was to use smoke to see if i had any air leaks .....next step is have 70% tint in hand to install when i get around to it .....did the roof insulation but only where it wasnt factory insulated....blocked off 2/3 of fresh air intake....installed hot water shut off at engine area....insulated under floor mat....plan on insulating under seat area ...of course did all the cleaning .....will look into insulating low pressure line and more air flow thru condensor ...all ready added some supplemental screening to front of radiatior pack to facilitate cleaning.........each step has helped a bit but still need more i have high hopes for the tint as objects in cab get hot in the sun
Great video. Our workmaster 65 is designed similar. All the roof mount units are gonna have trouble keeping up with the sun baking the unit. Also, the external air is supposed to pressurize the cab with clean air. The problem is that the filters on the wm are poor and dont seal well. Should have done a before and after.
Well, we have both of these machines…we might do a radiant heat test. Take em both outside at the same time. Measure inside ceiling temp on both after an hour or something.
Great video. I have done a few of these mods to my 4520. I have been waiting for you to do a video on this ever since i read that post with the numerous mods that guy did.
The biggest thing is to verify you are getting air cooling that is within JD spec. Or even more basic is making sure your ac compressor is running or your system charge is correct. Lastly it’s confusing on the ac controls. One switch turns on and off the ac compressor, but the cool knob does the same thing if you don’t have it on full cool it will kick out the compressor. Suggest doing another video on the mechanical side of the ac system about charging the system, evac of the system etc. using a real system not the Autozone cans.
Great video, Deere should offer a Recirculation mode, Max AC like on Autos, my 4720 open station rad is a pain to clean even with the wands you have, couldn’t imagine even dealing with another core squeezed in there, I know they offer tints now that look clear but repel the UV Rays and help keep it cool, so you get the best of both worlds
Hey Tim, an idea for vent improvements, might be to engineer something that is 3d printed for duct work. Just an idea that came to my mind when you were mocking up the ducting. You could go as far as adding a layer that increases the cabin height some but allows for insulation and ducting while maintaining the seal. It's something where you could share the plans or manufacture for sale. Just thinking aloud. I enjoy your videos and adventures. Keep up the great work.
Tim just fyi, I did a little checking on my 2019 cab 3046R this evening. My condenser coils has the same measurements you described on the 2024. Not sure what year Deere made that coil change, maybe when they switched from 3-20 to 3Rs ? There was talk on GTT about Dear stating improved AC on 2024. I thought that larger coil was probably it. I guess now I am wondering if they actually changed anything from say the likes of my 2019 model to the new 2024???
I know it's a different application, but we had the windows tinted in our sunroom. Blocks around 90% of UV light but when it's all done you can't actually tell a difference inside the house between the look of the tinted windows and the untinted windows. It made a noticeable difference on the amount of heat from the sunlight. So I don't think it would impact your view if you used a product like that. If the cab glass has any curves, I think it would make tinting much more difficult.
What were your plans for the 3520 when you bought it? Did you envision using it as a tractor for hire or as a video series on repair and upgrade of a used tractor?
Please watch the video(s) of and just after the auction. I had no vision. Did not intend to buy it. Having said that, I’ve been having fun with the rehab process, so all is good.
one other issues needs addressed the floor of the tractor. your sitting on top of the hydro trans which we all know gets hot, with only sheetmetal and a floor mat separating the cab from heat, use dyna mat or such pull the seat out and install a thermal barrier ( dyna mat) on all metal surfaces.. it has worked for me...
I put on ear muffs and turn the radio on. I would have the grass broke in just a short time. I go into the woods. I have a video of 1 hill I brush hog.
I got the ceramic nano super expensive tint on my truck in all windows and windshield. Made absolutely no difference and cost $500. Dashboard still got super hot. Waste of money.
As much as these tractors cost John deere being the most expensive it is ridiculous that anyone has to deal with this and no offer from jd to fix this I have a 2014 4520 the a/c has never been adequate to the point that on very hot days I leave it parked and use another tractor I will never buy john deere again!
Good to see “Neighbor Engineer Chris” helping analyze and solve issues. He has a wealth of knowedge and interesting insights. “Cool” project and yes, I’m sure my AC condenser needs a good cleaning. Blessings.
Do not block off the fresh air intake or change the % of recirculate vs fresh air. There is a lot of testing that goes into this as the only way to pressurize the cab is to bring in fresh air. a cab that is only recirculating air will not be pressurized and will actually bring dust into the cab.
Yes, but I'm cool
You forgot the most important thing, paint the top white! Years ago I had an AL roof on my 33' Class A motorhome. The inside used to get quite hot and the AC struggled to keep up. I then painted the roof white (RV roof paint) and it was amazing how it cooled down the RV.
I also installed white reflective shingles on my house, again amazing difference in the attic & how much cooler the attic is now. I notice CT school buses have the roof area where the kids are painted white but over the motor it's painted flat black, I gather for easier starts in the winter. So... I suggest to paint one roof white, let them cook in the sun & see how much cooler the cab with the white paint is, my guess 30 deg cooler!
Tim, A lot of big trucks have the shut in the heater hose for the same purpose of taking heat out of cab.
I am amazed that you had to do so much work to get your air working cooler. My LS has a recirculate button and when you put it in recirculate you can be so cold in a hot sun day that once you have it cold go back to fresh air and you stay nice and cool all day. And as far as the heater in the winter goes, I have spent 4 hours clearing snow on a 10 degrees below zero F wearing only a shirt. Had to ditch the coat once it warms up, about 15 minutes, and you're warm as toast.
It is only an issue in the Deep South and on crazy hot days.
We are being ‘perfectionists’. You’ll see that a lot in JD owners. We expect the best. If something is just ‘ok’ or ‘marginal’, we’ll see what we can do to make it better.
Tim you need to consider Ceramic tints if you don't want the dark hard to see tint. Ceramic tint comes where it blocks all the uv you don't want but is virtually invisible or slightly darker than the windows themselves..you don't have to get the really dark stuff to work anymore
Yes, works extremely well.
If they get 70% ceramic tint would improve it a lot without losing much visible
Did you mean to say infrared radiation? not UV
A slight overcharge of the AC system will drastically improve the temperature of the air from the vents. Ensuring the condenser and evaporator coils are clean is very critical when doing this because you don't wat to have excessive head pressure. I found that adding a few extra ounces over the total factory charge weight will lower vent temperatures approximately 6 degrees making a significant difference especially here in the deep south. There is no danger when doing this if done correctly. You need to recover the factory charge and weigh in the new charge adding the extra ounces when doing so. As Chris stated you are looking for a designed subcooling and with any system that uses a refrigerant there is a + or - tolerance. Doing this is simply adding a degree or two inside the allowable tolerance of subcooling.
Ceramic Tint is the way to go on the windows. I have put ceramic tint on all of the windows of my last 2 trucks (including the windshield). The amazing part is that I have not had to clean my windshield of the off-gasses from the dashboard in years. Ceramic tint is amazing and you can get it light enough that it does not hinder visibility in the cab.
One thing that needs to be addressed, at least on our 3046r, is how so much dust gets around the filter. After a shredding, even for just a little bit in a dustier environment, my evaporator coil has dirt and dust in it because it gets around the bottom of the filter. It seems to have to do with the filter cover not pushing it down evenly to form a good seal to the back of the cab. I think that would help with maintenance of cleaning that extremely thick evaporator more often than necessary. Thank you for this video. The struggle is real. The Lord Bless you and your family!
Your struggle is over with patent pending ChaffX!!
@@rollingretreatsrvsales5962 is this a new product? Google doesn't know it exists.
Hi Tim! Great idea with the foil insulation if there is an air gap below it. I wouldn't give 2 cents for it's R value though...Foil works great to stop radiant heat and the greater the temperature difference between the two sides, the better it works. Stopping heat from radiating down works best. We checked the temperature in the attics of two identical houses in the same subdivision on a hot summer day - one house had regular OSB on the roof and the other was foil faced on the bottom side. The attic of the foil faced OSB house was about 20 degrees cooler... I think most of your heat gain that you will feel in a tractor on a hot summer day will be radiant heat to your head. The increased R-value for the conductive heat will be primarily from the air in the bubble pack part of the insulation - not much... I really appreciate your videos! Very informative! Thanks for all you do to help others. Love the Bible verse at the end too - great reminder of the source of all truth!
There is clear ceramic tint and ceramic tint is the heat reflection tint that you would want.
When I’m done with the machine for the day I hose the cooling pack out with a garden hose, and let it sit all night so it will be dry in the morning. Works great on the excavators at work!
Just picked up a new 3039R. Dry excited but one thing we purchased for was the ac and dust reduction in the summer which we haven’t experienced with this tractor yet obviously. Might make some of the things you did a winter project just to stay ahead of the issues.
Yep. You’ll likely want to do some ‘optimization’. Congratulations!!
I did the same seals and added insulation (not the same as yours) about two weeks ago.
Next time you are out tractoring for a couple hours on a hot day, reach down and touch the metal by your seat, the floor mat, and the steel under that mat. Very hot and a huge source of cab heat IMO.
Ah, that ‘steel’ has been covered in my machine. I’ll show you in the next 3520 video.
@@TractorTimewithTim sounds good I'll look to see what you did. I covered mine about 10 months ago and I will be curious if there are any similarities.
Do current model cab tractor air conditioner systems not cool as good as current pick up trucks if the filters are clean?
To compare on a recent day I checked my 3500 black exterior color crew cab diesel. Conditions full sun 2:30 EDT, air temperature 91 F three feet above the weathered "light black" asphalt my truck after a 30 minute drive and stopping in the parking lot had a center AC discharge air temperature of 46 f after 5 minutes on max cooling. When put on automatic HVAC setting at 74 F the front seat temperature was able to maintain 74 F. I was happy with the truck AC. Will a modern cab tractor AC system not be similar?
Hey Tim: As to your window film on the tractor, Id suggest Ceramic tints. How they differ from normal tints is that they reflect up to 95% of the heat, while keeping a clear unshaded window. Yes you do have the option to dim it down, but as you mentioned, that makes to tough to film thru a darkened window. I own a Transit 350 and it has a hugh heat sink for a front window. We found that the surface temp stays lower which in turn allows the a/c to work alot better.
Your custom air tool, seal the end, not bent, take tube and drill small holes in it. about 1/2" apart. about 4 holes total, start small enlarge holes as needed.
I got the windows tinted on my 3039r (I’m in central FL) and it made an amazing improvement. I also use spray no-rinse evaporator foam cleaner on the evaporator coils and fins and suck the excess out with my shop vac. This helps if I don’t want to take the roof off.
I don’t even own a tractor with a cab but always something to learn . Let’s get started thanks Tim
Thanks for watching. Hope it was indeed informative.
@@TractorTimewithTim Yes sir always is especially the radiator maintenance
Look into a tool called an air comb. It is the same idea as the tool you have except it is a straight piece of tubing that is capped at the end that has several holes drilled in the side of the tube. It’s very compact and effective.
All great ideas, Tim and Chris. Hopefully, someone at Deere is watching so Deere can do all those upgrades at the factory. The price you pay for a new tractor you shouldn't have to re-engineer to improve it. Just saying 😅.
Tim my Kioti does have recirculate switch which works well. I have no problem keeping cool even on hottest day here. I’m obviously in Michigan so we don’t get the heat at like south but still get some really hot and humid days. I do use the radiator Genie after every time I do any field work and think that is key as you mentioned to help keeping air flow. I also gonna tint windows also but never had any problem keeping cool so far. Great video a lot of talk on this subject right now. 👍
A/C on my 3033R has always worked great in the heat of Summer. Most important , keep Freon properly charged, and filter , evaporator, and condenser clean. cheers!
Tim, 2 things.....
1) They make a clear "tint" that blocks 85% of the heat and UV !!!! I have it installed on the huge (6" x 8' ) windshield on my RV.
2) Back in the 80's, I worked for a custom harvester and we ran JD equipment. We were in the JD House one day getting some service work done and we thought we kept the condenser coil clean up in the roofs, The old man JD mechanic took a bottle of Windex with Ammonia-D and poured it over the coils and then poured cold water over the coil. The blackest nastiest water came out of the drains and it was the coldest combine AC out of 6 machines. Needless to say, the next rain day all machines got the same treatment.
In my opinion using recirculate air would make the biggest bang for the buck. Just like in a vehicle, when it's really hot it'll either automatically (or manually in older vehicles) switch thus making a drastic difference in cooling. You're basically making the whole AC system more efficient by not trying to continuously cool 100+ degree air. The cooler the cabin air becomes, the more efficient your AC will operate. I'm surprised they don't build this into the design from the factory. It's really auto AC 101.
A thermal camera for testing would both ease your project with visual representation for you and give a much easier to understand picture for the viewers.
With all things involving temperature control, it can be divided into two categories; insulation and efficiency. Make the a/c more efficient and insulate from outside influences. The easiest way to increase efficiency is insulating the system itself as you have, decreasing refrigerant cooling loss like insulation on the lines and increasing air flow through the condensor. I would be quite curious how much of a difference swapping the mechanical fan altogether to a high cfm electric would be. As it wouldn't vary air flow by rpm it would maximize it at low speed. Just an idea.
we used the ceramic window tend. its clear and really knocks out the heat. you cannot even tell its on the window.
Also check the coolant valve under the roof if it is wore or adjusted wrong hot coolant gets into the heater core lowering cab cooling performance
if you want to not allow outside air in....... put syran wrap from the kitchen aroud the cab air filter.... if you change your mind it only cost you the cheap wrap.
Bad Idea. Eventually you will run out of oxygen and check out.
@@larrybecker9645 is better than blocking passage indefinitely first off..... secondly..... when it's not warm enough to run the a/c..... you can run that tractor endlessly .... and not check out....... I've lived in day cab trucks with air-tight cabs and no a/c.... haven't checked out yet
The condenser is larger in the new tractor because the new refregerant (R1234yf) needs a larger cooling area to provide the same cooling performance as the older (R134a) systems.
Absolutely excellent video Tim. Really a lot of great information packed into this video.
I see those Larsen lights on the old 3520.
I ordered a set of those lights from Larsen yesterday as well as a rear camera setup from them for my 3046R.
I have a couple threads on GTT all about the different exhaust which includes several pics of my vertical exhaust on my 3046R and 4066R.
I had my windows tinted with a ceramic 80% film meaning I have something like 90% UV and heat rejection but only 20% darker then clear or stock glass. That has helped a bit with my AC cooling.
I think when I have the top off my 3046 to install my wired HD rear camera setup, after seeing this video, I think I will get some of that insulation as well as check all my foam seals. Very good info all around for cab 3 and 4 series owners.
On our forklifts that were diesel and cabs most were we had maintenance install shutoff valves in heater lines to keep heat from going into the heaters in the summer time. And once installed we drivers could open and close them when needed. Nothing like burning your leg in the summertime. We also would remove the doors, unless it would rain all day.
I finally got a little Kabota tractor! I’m part of the tractor gang now. Haha. When buying the tractor I brought your name up and he watches you also. I got it with a bush hog for my landscaping business. That little tractor worked perfectly for my new 11 acre property I got this year. Now I need a finish mower too. And a grapple bucket, stump grinder, box blade. I got a lot of catching up to get where you are.
Congratulations! Which model did you get? (Oh, and it is spelled Kubota :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim it’s bx2670
A older gentleman owned it but hardly used it. 2014 with 124 hours on it. Haha thanks for the correct spelling I had just used voice txt and that’s what it spelled for me. She’s tiny but perfect for what I needed it for.
I would love to have a before and after video on how the modifications performed. Can you undo everything that you did and test the before, and then redo all of your hard work for the after? 😁. Nice work gentlemen. Stay Safe!!!
Well, we have the 2024 3046r right beside it. We can test some things that way.
@@TractorTimewithTim That would be neat to watch. TY Sir! Stay Safe!!!
Great information! Great video! Suggestion: With Chris's body/paint skills, lay up a very simple curved fiberglass shell approximately the size of the cab roof. (Nothing pretty, but painted green. This is just an experiment after all.) Mount the shell to the roof using adequate short - maybe one inch - stand-offs and rubber gaskets. In effect, the shield will absorb most of the solar gain The air-space between the roof and the shell will not only shield the roof from direct solar gain, but it could/will provide additional protection for the roof and additional mounting points for accessories if designed accordingly (eventually). (For an even more aggressive experiment, cover the shell with a mirror reflective wrap. Or, how about solar panels to be ESG/DEI-correct?! No?? Save some green paint.) If it works, and if production is contemplated, final design could include a variety of enhancements, refinements, and capabilities.
Videos like this are always interesting
Hi, my idea , is to paint the roof White or at least the center and leave the margin John Deere Green. If you could get it to stick, you could even use that white ceramic roof coating. This might not be practical but we're just throwing ideas out there, right? Im positive your insulation probably made a couple degrees difference. If a little is good, more is more gooder. Nice video🌬️
Tim I think that deer designed it the way they did to keep those relays cool and not blowing and putting the tractor down for hours a relay puts off a lot of heat and need the airflow to keep cool
Allot of trucks have shut off valves on the coolant lines going to the heater core. It makes allot of different if your ac is borderline
One other thing to check is the sealing surface between the cabin air filter and the intake itself to make sure there isn't something that could cause a gap between the 2 mating surfaces because any gap could allow more dust to get past the filter. Another thing that might help to keep the dust out from the internal stuff is to cut a heppa filter and place it behind the main filter to help filter out even more of the fine particles.
Great video I have a 4520 2013 a/c never work's good when 90 or hoter was told by jd only to keep cooler by 20 degrees what the outside temperature is
I think you'll find these changes will dramatically help.
Added that roof insulation and it does help out big time in this tractor cab. This is a must do Next thing that we will do tent the windows.@TractorTimewithTim
Good ideas there Tim on extra cooling.
Having trouble with my 2019 4066r AC, lost freon, appears to be under roof, will trouble shoot for leak.
Another problem is Deere tech manual and also parts list doesn't cover an extra line added to the control
head of the TXV (H block expansion valve).
Can't get any info. about the modification from Deere or dealership, tried many times, very frustrating.
Think I figured out what they are doing, but would like confirmation from Deere.
Nobody else, truck, car, tractor does this with a H block expansion valve that I can find, appears
to be a Deere thing???
done a lot of this previous one of the ways i checked the roof seal was to use smoke to see if i had any air leaks .....next step is have 70% tint in hand to install when i get around to it .....did the roof insulation but only where it wasnt factory insulated....blocked off 2/3 of fresh air intake....installed hot water shut off at engine area....insulated under floor mat....plan on insulating under seat area ...of course did all the cleaning .....will look into insulating low pressure line and more air flow thru condensor ...all ready added some supplemental screening to front of radiatior pack to facilitate cleaning.........each step has helped a bit but still need more i have high hopes for the tint as objects in cab get hot in the sun
I like the suggestions about keeping heat out of the cab…insulation below the seat.
And wrap between engine exhaust and cab.
Great video. Our workmaster 65 is designed similar. All the roof mount units are gonna have trouble keeping up with the sun baking the unit. Also, the external air is supposed to pressurize the cab with clean air. The problem is that the filters on the wm are poor and dont seal well. Should have done a before and after.
Well, we have both of these machines…we might do a radiant heat test. Take em both outside at the same time. Measure inside ceiling temp on both after an hour or something.
Great video. I have done a few of these mods to my 4520. I have been waiting for you to do a video on this ever since i read that post with the numerous mods that guy did.
The biggest thing is to verify you are getting air cooling that is within JD spec. Or even more basic is making sure your ac compressor is running or your system charge is correct. Lastly it’s confusing on the ac controls. One switch turns on and off the ac compressor, but the cool knob does the same thing if you don’t have it on full cool it will kick out the compressor. Suggest doing another video on the mechanical side of the ac system about charging the system, evac of the system etc. using a real system not the Autozone cans.
Great video, Deere should offer a Recirculation mode, Max AC like on Autos, my 4720 open station rad is a pain to clean even with the wands you have, couldn’t imagine even dealing with another core squeezed in there, I know they offer tints now that look clear but repel the UV Rays and help keep it cool, so you get the best of both worlds
Hey Tim, an idea for vent improvements, might be to engineer something that is 3d printed for duct work. Just an idea that came to my mind when you were mocking up the ducting. You could go as far as adding a layer that increases the cabin height some but allows for insulation and ducting while maintaining the seal. It's something where you could share the plans or manufacture for sale. Just thinking aloud. I enjoy your videos and adventures. Keep up the great work.
Good Video... This is away to improve the air conditioning in the small tractors..... 🙏😊😄🚜
i need a neighbor like Chris 😄😄😄
Tim just fyi, I did a little checking on my 2019 cab 3046R this evening.
My condenser coils has the same measurements you described on the 2024.
Not sure what year Deere made that coil change, maybe when they switched from 3-20 to 3Rs ?
There was talk on GTT about Dear stating improved AC on 2024. I thought that larger coil was probably it.
I guess now I am wondering if they actually changed anything from say the likes of my 2019 model to the new 2024???
I don’t think there were any A/C changes for ‘24.
I know it's a different application, but we had the windows tinted in our sunroom. Blocks around 90% of UV light but when it's all done you can't actually tell a difference inside the house between the look of the tinted windows and the untinted windows. It made a noticeable difference on the amount of heat from the sunlight. So I don't think it would impact your view if you used a product like that. If the cab glass has any curves, I think it would make tinting much more difficult.
Basically undersized ac strange for the price point of the machine
Tim would the 2019 4066R be the same as what you are working on?
Yep.
What were your plans for the 3520 when you bought it? Did you envision using it as a tractor for hire or as a video series on repair and upgrade of a used tractor?
Please watch the video(s) of and just after the auction. I had no vision. Did not intend to buy it.
Having said that, I’ve been having fun with the rehab process, so all is good.
Tim, would a coil cleaner work? $20 spray can and rinse with water after letting it sit for a few minutes. There are good videos for it on YT
The size of the condenser could be related to different refrigerants. The latest refrigerants require larger condenser coils.
one other issues needs addressed the floor of the tractor. your sitting on top of the hydro trans which we all know gets hot, with only sheetmetal and a floor mat separating the cab from heat, use dyna mat or such pull the seat out and install a thermal barrier ( dyna mat) on all metal
surfaces.. it has worked for me...
Ok. We discussed this just after the video.
Also, we put cab foam on the inside under seat and back panel. We’ll show that in another video.
Please do something like this for the 5 series my new 5E AC is very poor
Hmm. I thought mine was ok. But admittedly, I don’t use it much.
@@TractorTimewithTim I would assume that a lot would be the same but you know where that gets you sometimes.
good ideas!
I just keep it to all natural air flow. Lol. Never have to clean the windows either. But that's my choice.
My uncle used to say he “likes to hear the birds sing…”
Never really explained how he could hear that over the sound of the engine :-)
I put on ear muffs and turn the radio on. I would have the grass broke in just a short time. I go into the woods. I have a video of 1 hill I brush hog.
Looks like the roof wore holes in the evaporator. Won't hold much freon in that tim.
Uh, no. Incorrect.
@Tractor Time with Tim My bad just thought it looked that way. Love the videos
The Good Lord provides my AC, as I've no cab on Joan.
I got the ceramic nano super expensive tint on my truck in all windows and windshield. Made absolutely no difference and cost $500. Dashboard still got super hot. Waste of money.
looked at this as looking for ideas
Not sure I understand.
Wait....... what? A 2024 3046R? Did I miss something?
Yes. We have had several videos about the 2024 3046r and 4075r. Make sure you are keeping up :-)
As much as these tractors cost John deere being the most expensive it is ridiculous that anyone has to deal with this and no offer from jd to fix this I have a 2014 4520 the a/c has never been adequate to the point that on very hot days I leave it parked and use another tractor I will never buy john deere again!
I hate to be a negative Nellie,but I’m not a fan of cabs on compact tractors. Let alone A/C. It’s not the space shuttle!
Understandable.
It definitely complicates things.
…but VERY nice when mowing or for snow removal :-)