I really like these videos! I’m tired of the “will it starts” so many other channels are doing. This is more realistic to a lot of us I think, buying a used tractor and fixing it up. Thank you for your time I hope you keep doing videos like this.
I am really loving this video series. I was fighting that terrible squeak in my 3046R steering wheel. Now after a Deere tech advised I spray a lubricants' down that steering shaft, I was able to get it to not squeak but I have more of a groaning sound now, that same tech was telling me about the busing being the likely culprit, this video really helped illustrate where those bushing are located and what is involved to fix this. This video series is simply incredibly helpful. I ordered a rear camera setup and was going to need to access the roof, the last video in this series showed me how to do remove the roof cap, as well as some good AC tips. IE. I ordered that insulation from your Amazon link in the that last video, which I plan to insulate my roof like you did, before putting my lid back on the roof. Just a fantastic video series. It has been super helpful. I am also looking to upgrade my seat to an air seat on my 2025R, this is all good very relative stuff.
@@TractorTimewithTim Very nice! I found an Air seat base for an open station 3 or 4 series in the Deere parts pages that seems to cross over with a spring base the at fits 1-4 series, so I was thinking that might mean that the air seat upgrade might also fit the 1-2 series. I would love to have a simple air seat base and reuses my factory seat.
That style siphon was a game changer for me. Also called a jiggler siphon. Just jiggle it with short and quick, up and down until you see the fluid gets well over the bend in the tube. Watch out for the cheaper ones that have a softer tube that collapses. That valve option is nice. You can attach an extension tube also. These work great emptying those new style safety fuel cans.
the first generation of those tilt steering mechanisms were junk, especially on open cab models because you actually used the steering wheel as a handle to get on them. I am glad to see that they have upgraded that design
Happy birthday Christy, we know who makes the magic happen. The valve is an interesting twist. I have used those syphons for years. I first used it to fill my Seadoos on the lift. I have accumulated 2 other diameters. My larger one is supposed to be Russian military surplus.
I got a shake siphon like that when my normal one froze and broke, and a replacement was too many days away. TSC had it on the shelf. It works, but that tube is a pita to position when cold.
why do tractors have studs instead of lugs? i hate pulling my wheel on my 1026R. its so hard for me to get back on. little things add up. great job. thanks for sharing.
You need one of those cheap portable sand blast tanks to do small areas. Glass beads and rust converting primer works great for me in those small areas.
Great video series. I think the 3x20 and 4x20 are the best compact tractors ever made. This shows how long they can last and showcases the parts availability with john deere!!
That comment about the diesel leaking soaked the bolts so they should be lubricated enough to loosen up... Boy thats a great 'glass half full' attitude:)
I like following along on your “project” journey, especially since I have a 4 series which has a lot of similarities. It’s a good thing that we can learn from other people’s experiences. So, thanks for sharing yours. Blessings.
Nice work! It's too late now but a simple fix for the hole in the fuel tank would have been a rubber plug. A tire plug would work. Even a golf tee if need be. Best Regards, Jay
The 3520 is coming along nicely. On the tank, plastic welding might have been an option. Let us know how the patch holds up. For the cab window cleaning, my new favorite way is soapy water and a shower squeegee, fast and mostly streak free! Also great on cars.
That’s impressive great job. The TLC that machine has gotten is awesome. In a video a couple months back you had a plastic canopy that I believe you didn’t know what to do with. Would you be willing to sell it by chance
On my LS tractor i needed a new hydraulic line and first time going to a new dealer we ordered a new line. Next week it came in and we drove to get it. Well we knew there were two pipes running together and this wasn't the one we wanted. So after getting home my wife sent them all the information on the tractor. Then the dealer had to contact the manufacturer to work and get the right piece. Next week we came back and they had 4 different pipes and out of them we needed one of them. They packaged them to where if the other pipe went bad, we had to buy all 4. They were packaged in pairs as in the different sides to where one pipe fits the other. So using the one we needed, we now have 3 we don't need at the moment. But online i can see the diagram for each part. Naturally they don't produce this tractor anymore but as long as I can buy parts I'm okay with that!
There is a reason for the different appearance of the replacement steering shaft. There was a standards update about 5 or 6 years ago relating to zinc plating. Manufacturers adopted the convention of using silver dye instead of the traditional yellow as a visual indication of compliance to the updated standard.
For your floor liner install perhaps you can use velcro (the thin 3M stuff) strips to help hold it tight to the side panels and it would still be easy to remove
Here is a couple ideas that I am also wanting to do to my 3046R. Honestly all these fixes you have presented in this series have convinced me not to trade my 3046R off on a new one, I am going to keep going trying to perfect mine too. The next task on my list is to try and get some of the slop out of the hydraulic joystick. My Deere tech says it can be done, Kenny says good luck. LOL Also wanting to look into adding a Summit hydraulic kit like I have on my 2025R, I am really beginning to hate this Deere 4th and 5th diverter setup I have now, where everything is joystick controlled including my rear SCVs. I am thinking I can put those Summit switches right into those knockouts in the right hand control panel, and have it all look really nice and factory. Would love to see your take on something like that as well. Again just a very inspiring and educational series. Your purchase of that old machine at auction has made for a really great series. Love it.
Yep, the summit kit will work fine. They have a specific one for 3R. Yes, you can put the switches in the knockouts. However, you may have to rewire. Mine on the 1025r hardly has long enough wires between the switches.
@@TractorTimewithTim I saw a kit on the summit website, it was not clear rather I would need to add a power beyond like I did to my 2025R or if it tied in somewhere else? Also didn't know if the brackets were for cab model like mine or an open station? I have the Deere diverted 4th and 5th on the back along with the 3rd function is routed out back then it routs up to the front for the loader. Really need or rather want to get an independent setup for the back, the Deere diverter setup is starting to drive me crazy. LOL
@@TractorTimewithTim Hey Tim I spoke with Summit today about those Kits for the 3Rs shown on their website. It sounds like they could use some of your help coming up with a 3R kit for the cab models. The only 3R kits they currently have been all for OOS. It did sound like they could sell me some universal parts to try and custom build something. Not sure if I am ready to take that on or not.
Question for you, did that fuel tank have to come down to swap that fender or would that fender been able to be removed with the fuel tank remaining in place?
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks Tim. Looking at doing a fender swap with my 23 3046R and the new 25' 3046R model project. I want my big extensions on the new 25 that is getting a monster tire setup along with the ESCV loader controls and I want to put the smaller fender extensions on the 23. Cheapest way to accomplish that is to simply swap the fender on them.
Hey Tim, I have a 3520 that needs new sleeves and I have the head off and I was wondering how to drop the oil pan and do I need to remove the 18 mm bolts that goes through the torque converter or pump and then remove bell housing bolts, the adapter plate appears to be bolted to the oil pan . Would appreciate any advice. Thank you
Good afternoon, I just watched a video of a gentleman with a John Deere tractor with a shredder and he stated that he had to push the clutch in slightly to get the tractor to go slow enough for the implement to work properly. I want to warn the people to never ride the clutch like that.The clutch needs to be engaged or not and nothing in the middle. You will burn the clutch and put hot spots on it and it’s over and you will be installing a new clutch , pressure plate and probably the throw out bearing and it’s a very expensive repair. If you need to control your speed use the lowest speed gear and the throttle and don’t ride the clutch. You will notice that you have a slower speed gear in forward than reverse and that’s due to forward is the direction the tractor is designed to work not reverse. I assume you don’t want to scratch the paint on the underside of your tractor.? Would much rather have that than a bent 3 point linkage and damage to the hydraulic pump and riding the clutch burning it up. Put your loader bucket one foot high and put your tractor in the lowest gear possible and use enough throttle to keep your pto speed in the 540 range and use your throttle to control your ground speed or will have a clutch that slips then chatters and then it no longer works. Drive forward with your chipper shredder grinder and don’t look back unless you want a lose an eye or get a stick stuck in your face. Look at your progress on the next pass around your area and run over it again but I think you will find enough rpms you will get your desired results from your cutter. I noticed your push bar is all the way up??? Lower it to a foot above the ground and use it as the pushing mechanism as designed and not the sheet metal housing of your cutter. I’m sorry guys but I have a old F & F cutter built in Waco Texas and I have shredded much larger brush than you are grinding with your expensive shredder and I use a 30 hp Ferguson TO 30 to do it with and if I do my job of getting the tractor over the brush the F&F cutter will do it’s job to and the little stumps you speak of are pulled out of the ground and become mulch like the rest of it. The cutter uses a straight blade and not stump jumper and will mow grass like a zero turn if I keep the blade sharp. I suggest you look on utube at the videos where large brush is cut and ground up with a simple 5 foot rotary cutter and used by someone who knows what he is doing. I no longer have a tractor but if I did I would show videos of it doing its job and has been almost a hundred years. F&F cutter, Waco Texas and still in business today! Thank you, but don’t ride your clutch and don’t worry about the belly of your tractor. It will make it I promise.
@@TractorTimewithTimspeaking of attachments, it would be fun if you could get Ventrac to let you have the new loader they've developed and see how it compares to Johnny 1 regular.
Hmm. Hadn’t even heard of that! Now, Chris and I are thinking about some sort of material for under the cab…can we reduce heat coming up from the tranny?
I'm curious, as well! I've seen the Dynamat online, and that is NOT cheap! There are other products, but I'm not sure how well they actually work. Some require layering, and it's been confusing deciphering how to properly install them.
Where do you get a loader control stick like that? I want one for my 2038R and I can not find it anywhere. Might be non-compatible with the 2038R. That looks like it would be more comfortable to use all day over a knob stuck to a stick. lol
What about this episode shows ANYTHING negative about Deere. 12 year old tractor with 3650 hours, out of production for 10 years now. ALL parts still available from the manufacturer. Takes incredible bias against a company to have this sort of reaction.
i found the 1750 hst kubota and have had it on all my implements and it does great on all it has the same hyd 3 point hitch control as the 1025 deere that was 1 the main must haves as 99% of my work is with the bush hog and makes it super easy to set up
Drilling through the gas tank by accident is not as bad as reaching under a board and making sure the circular saw is cutting through while running. So look on the bright side!
That was a slick political statement by the "Appropriations Committee" stating after an "Inquiry" by the "Finance Committee" ...... "See I brought you an air ride seat." That was slick, Tim.
@@TractorTimewithTim good it’s not a huge expense but if it were built with either it able to be lubricated and or nylon inserts would seem to be an upgrade , rather than needing the steering shaft replacement as well , For got this was a used tractor before you acquired it
I dunno what happened. Christy found a kit which DOES include the patch. Maybe I got messed up in my thinking/ordering. I'm not sure. Again, not sponsored. Just relaying my experience.
Yep. We bought one. Loaned it to my brother Tom and nephew Randall to put on my dad’s 3320. For now, we don’t need it since we have a matching one for our 3046r.
Probably not. But the low auction purchase price ($14,000) leaves room for the repair costs. Once fully re-habbed, this tractor should be worth much more than my investment. Christy's birthday...not mine.
Get your credit card out, and then you'll have to get a rubber light gasket for the missing one. Maybe get two. That is after you get Kristy a birthday 🎂 present.
Tim, don't you know that you have no right to repair your own JD tractor? Congrats, your warranty has been voided and JD shut down you tractor with it's last over the air update.
I really like these videos! I’m tired of the “will it starts” so many other channels are doing. This is more realistic to a lot of us I think, buying a used tractor and fixing it up. Thank you for your time I hope you keep doing videos like this.
I am really loving this video series. I was fighting that terrible squeak in my 3046R steering wheel. Now after a Deere tech advised I spray a lubricants' down that steering shaft, I was able to get it to not squeak but I have more of a groaning sound now, that same tech was telling me about the busing being the likely culprit, this video really helped illustrate where those bushing are located and what is involved to fix this.
This video series is simply incredibly helpful. I ordered a rear camera setup and was going to need to access the roof, the last video in this series showed me how to do remove the roof cap, as well as some good AC tips. IE. I ordered that insulation from your Amazon link in the that last video, which I plan to insulate my roof like you did, before putting my lid back on the roof. Just a fantastic video series. It has been super helpful. I am also looking to upgrade my seat to an air seat on my 2025R, this is all good very relative stuff.
I’m working on seat solution for 1025r/2025r…but not progressing as fast as I would like.
@@TractorTimewithTim
Very nice!
I found an Air seat base for an open station 3 or 4 series in the Deere parts pages that seems to cross over with a spring base the at fits 1-4 series, so I was thinking that might mean that the air seat upgrade might also fit the 1-2 series.
I would love to have a simple air seat base and reuses my factory seat.
@@jdfleetguy28 of course! That is what we all want!
That style siphon was a game changer for me. Also called a jiggler siphon. Just jiggle it with short and quick, up and down until you see the fluid gets well over the bend in the tube. Watch out for the cheaper ones that have a softer tube that collapses. That valve option is nice. You can attach an extension tube also. These work great emptying those new style safety fuel cans.
the first generation of those tilt steering mechanisms were junk, especially on open cab models because you actually used the steering wheel as a handle to get on them. I am glad to see that they have upgraded that design
Happy birthday Christy, we know who makes the magic happen.
The valve is an interesting twist.
I have used those syphons for years. I first used it to fill my Seadoos on the lift. I have accumulated 2 other diameters. My larger one is supposed to be Russian military surplus.
🎉 Happy Birthday Kristie.
Thank you!
I like the hands-on approach Tim. It’s nice to see self repairs. Lots of folks just bring it to the dealer. Well done guys!
As a former 3520 owner, it was interesting to see all your projects. I avoid salt at all costs!
I got a shake siphon like that when my normal one froze and broke, and a replacement was too many days away. TSC had it on the shelf. It works, but that tube is a pita to position when cold.
Good job Tim and remember the old saying if Mama's not happy nobody's happy😂 and happy birthday Christy.🎉
why do tractors have studs instead of lugs? i hate pulling my wheel on my 1026R. its so hard for me to get back on. little things add up. great job. thanks for sharing.
You need one of those cheap portable sand blast tanks to do small areas. Glass beads and rust converting primer works great for me in those small areas.
Great video series. I think the 3x20 and 4x20 are the best compact tractors ever made. This shows how long they can last and showcases the parts availability with john deere!!
That comment about the diesel leaking soaked the bolts so they should be lubricated enough to loosen up... Boy thats a great 'glass half full' attitude:)
I like following along on your “project” journey, especially since I have a 4 series which has a lot of similarities. It’s a good thing that we can learn from other people’s experiences. So, thanks for sharing yours. Blessings.
Nice job old boy looking good. And a Happy Birthday to Christie.🎉🎉
Can't wait to see the 3520 in action again.... 😊😅😮🍔🍔🍔.,.. Have a GREAT day Christie...🎂🎂
Nice work! It's too late now but a simple fix for the hole in the fuel tank would have been a rubber plug. A tire plug would work. Even a golf tee if need be. Best Regards, Jay
I have 2 of those siphon hoses. One large size and one regular size. Had them for years, love them.
The 3520 is coming along nicely. On the tank, plastic welding might have been an option. Let us know how the patch holds up. For the cab window cleaning, my new favorite way is soapy water and a shower squeegee, fast and mostly streak free! Also great on cars.
That’s impressive great job. The TLC that machine has gotten is awesome.
In a video a couple months back you had a plastic canopy that I believe you didn’t know what to do with. Would you be willing to sell it by chance
On my LS tractor i needed a new hydraulic line and first time going to a new dealer we ordered a new line. Next week it came in and we drove to get it. Well we knew there were two pipes running together and this wasn't the one we wanted. So after getting home my wife sent them all the information on the tractor. Then the dealer had to contact the manufacturer to work and get the right piece. Next week we came back and they had 4 different pipes and out of them we needed one of them. They packaged them to where if the other pipe went bad, we had to buy all 4. They were packaged in pairs as in the different sides to where one pipe fits the other. So using the one we needed, we now have 3 we don't need at the moment. But online i can see the diagram for each part. Naturally they don't produce this tractor anymore but as long as I can buy parts I'm okay with that!
There is a reason for the different appearance of the replacement steering shaft. There was a standards update about 5 or 6 years ago relating to zinc plating. Manufacturers adopted the convention of using silver dye instead of the traditional yellow as a visual indication of compliance to the updated standard.
Wow! What a project you had. Get her the gift to show your love for her.
For your floor liner install perhaps you can use velcro (the thin 3M stuff) strips to help hold it tight to the side panels and it would still be easy to remove
Excellent detailing and restoring!
Nice video Tim! Looking forward to seeing other improvements to the tractor. Happy birthday 🎂🎉🎊 Christy! Hope you have a great birthday!!!
i loved how this matches 'real life' . Every one of my projects seem to be like this. A 5 min job turns into 2 hours or more.
And at least 3 trips to Lowe’s or Home Depot.
Tim I truly enjoy watching you spend your money and fixing things. lol That will be a very nice looking tractor when your done.
Here is a couple ideas that I am also wanting to do to my 3046R.
Honestly all these fixes you have presented in this series have convinced me not to trade my 3046R off on a new one, I am going to keep going trying to perfect mine too.
The next task on my list is to try and get some of the slop out of the hydraulic joystick.
My Deere tech says it can be done, Kenny says good luck. LOL
Also wanting to look into adding a Summit hydraulic kit like I have on my 2025R, I am really beginning to hate this Deere 4th and 5th diverter setup I have now, where everything is joystick controlled including my rear SCVs.
I am thinking I can put those Summit switches right into those knockouts in the right hand control panel, and have it all look really nice and factory.
Would love to see your take on something like that as well.
Again just a very inspiring and educational series. Your purchase of that old machine at auction has made for a really great series. Love it.
Yep, the summit kit will work fine. They have a specific one for 3R.
Yes, you can put the switches in the knockouts. However, you may have to rewire. Mine on the 1025r hardly has long enough wires between the switches.
@@TractorTimewithTim I saw a kit on the summit website, it was not clear rather I would need to add a power beyond like I did to my 2025R or if it tied in somewhere else?
Also didn't know if the brackets were for cab model like mine or an open station?
I have the Deere diverted 4th and 5th on the back along with the 3rd function is routed out back then it routs up to the front for the loader. Really need or rather want to get an independent setup for the back, the Deere diverter setup is starting to drive me crazy. LOL
@@TractorTimewithTim Hey Tim I spoke with Summit today about those Kits for the 3Rs shown on their website. It sounds like they could use some of your help coming up with a 3R kit for the cab models.
The only 3R kits they currently have been all for OOS.
It did sound like they could sell me some universal parts to try and custom build something.
Not sure if I am ready to take that on or not.
@@jdfleetguy28 good idea. I suppose I could work on it. So many things on my plate right now!
Great job with the repairs and improvements on the 3520! That's unfortunate the rubber taillight gasket may have been tossed with the old fender.
Another $100 mistake! Had to buy the whole taillight to get the grommet!
@@TractorTimewithTim Ouch!
@@photocontrol even worse! Late yesterday, I found the old fender under something else in the shop! Grommet fully intact. $100 totally wasted!
@@TractorTimewithTim Oh wow! At least it wasn't thrown out and you have a spare.
Great video, and very good making lemonade out of the situation...situations!
Great video, happy birthday Christy 🎉🎉😊
Question for you, did that fuel tank have to come down to swap that fender or would that fender been able to be removed with the fuel tank remaining in place?
Fuel tank had to come down.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks Tim. Looking at doing a fender swap with my 23 3046R and the new 25' 3046R model project. I want my big extensions on the new 25 that is getting a monster tire setup along with the ESCV loader controls and I want to put the smaller fender extensions on the 23. Cheapest way to accomplish that is to simply swap the fender on them.
Hey Tim, I have a 3520 that needs new sleeves and I have the head off and I was wondering how to drop the oil pan and do I need to remove the 18 mm bolts that goes through the torque converter or pump and then remove bell housing bolts, the adapter plate appears to be bolted to the oil pan . Would appreciate any advice. Thank you
Well, you are way above my head. I’ve never had one of these engines torn down. Sorry.
Thanks. Great video. You almost have a new tractor.
Happy birthday Christy!
Good afternoon, I just watched a video of a gentleman with a John Deere tractor with a shredder and he stated that he had to push the clutch in slightly to get the tractor to go slow enough for the implement to work properly.
I want to warn the people to never ride the clutch like that.The clutch needs to be engaged or not and nothing in the middle. You will burn the clutch and put hot spots on it and it’s over and you will be installing a new clutch , pressure plate and probably the throw out bearing and it’s a very expensive repair. If you need to control your speed use the lowest speed gear and the throttle and don’t ride the clutch. You will notice that you have a slower speed gear in forward than reverse and that’s due to forward is the direction the tractor is designed to work not reverse. I assume you don’t want to scratch the paint on the underside of your tractor.? Would much rather have that than a bent 3 point linkage and damage to the hydraulic pump and riding the clutch burning it up. Put your loader bucket one foot high and put your tractor in the lowest gear possible and use enough throttle to keep your pto speed in the 540 range and use your throttle to control your ground speed or will have a clutch that slips then chatters and then it no longer works.
Drive forward with your chipper shredder grinder and don’t look back unless you want a lose an eye or get a stick stuck in your face. Look at your progress on the next pass around your area and run over it again but I think you will find enough rpms you will get your desired results from your cutter.
I noticed your push bar is all the way up???
Lower it to a foot above the ground and use it as the pushing mechanism as designed and not the sheet metal housing of your cutter.
I’m sorry guys but I have a old F & F cutter built in Waco Texas and I have shredded much larger brush than you are grinding with your expensive shredder and I use a 30 hp Ferguson TO 30 to do it with and if I do my job of getting the tractor over the brush the F&F cutter will do it’s job to and the little stumps you speak of are pulled out of the ground and become mulch like the rest of it.
The cutter uses a straight blade and not stump jumper and will mow grass like a zero turn if I keep the blade sharp.
I suggest you look on utube at the videos where large brush is cut and ground up with a simple 5 foot rotary cutter and used by someone who knows what he is doing.
I no longer have a tractor but if I did I would show videos of it doing its job and has been almost a hundred years.
F&F cutter, Waco Texas and still in business today!
Thank you, but don’t ride your clutch and don’t worry about the belly of your tractor. It will make it I promise.
These small hydrostatic tractors don’t even have clutches.
Not sure how your comment even applies to this video.
Thinking about a new mower if you lost your ventrac today would you replace it with another one or would you go with a zero turn
We love Vinny! Great mower. The real value is the other attachments.
@@TractorTimewithTimspeaking of attachments, it would be fun if you could get Ventrac to let you have the new loader they've developed and see how it compares to Johnny 1 regular.
@@jimmcknight3021 working on it.
@@TractorTimewithTim 🥳
Curious to see if the cab foam will make a difference, a Dynomat like material may have been a better option?
Hmm. Hadn’t even heard of that!
Now, Chris and I are thinking about some sort of material for under the cab…can we reduce heat coming up from the tranny?
@@TractorTimewithTim Look at Dynomat products, I'm sure Chris is familiar with it from his car expertise.
I'm curious, as well! I've seen the Dynamat online, and that is NOT cheap! There are other products, but I'm not sure how well they actually work. Some require layering, and it's been confusing deciphering how to properly install them.
Great episode guys. Good work. Enjoy!
Good to hear from you!
@@TractorTimewithTim Been crazy busy but a forever fan! Ya'll have a blessed week.
The first rule of restoration projects is never throw anything any til your absolutely sure it’s finished
Very nice video presentation.
Great video, thank you for sharing 😀
Where do you get a loader control stick like that? I want one for my 2038R and I can not find it anywhere. Might be non-compatible with the 2038R. That looks like it would be more comfortable to use all day over a knob stuck to a stick. lol
Answer was in video :-)
Use the parts diagram for the 3R tractors :-). Order from GreenPartStore.com and use code ttwt.
Happy Birthday 🎂 🍪 🍰 🧁 🍨 🎊
Happy birthday Christy
Happy early birthday Christy.🎂
Nothing craps like a Deere!
What about this episode shows ANYTHING negative about Deere. 12 year old tractor with 3650 hours, out of production for 10 years now. ALL parts still available from the manufacturer. Takes incredible bias against a company to have this sort of reaction.
@@TractorTimewithTim lol… I only speak from experience young man! It’s nice and well your tractor is still around!
Nice job, Tim! Have you noticed any difference after adding the cab foam? Also, where did you find the cab foam? Take care, and stay safe!
Yes, significantly quieter! Cab interiors I think.
JB Weld would plug that hole quite easily.
you still have the kubota would be neat to have a parts site to get parts for us kubota folks
i found the 1750 hst kubota and have had it on all my implements and it does great on all it has the same hyd 3 point hitch control as the 1025 deere that was 1 the main must haves as 99% of my work is with the bush hog and makes it super easy to set up
Happy birthday Christy
Thank you!
What was that part number for the seat? Cost?
suspension only. I re-used the seat. Here is a link to buy the suspension kit. bit.ly/DeereAirSuspension
Ordered last night thanks
Happy Birthday 🎂🥳
nice job, good expirience, nice cat :)
Happy birthday 🎉
Happy Birthday Ma'am!
Thank you so much 😀
LETS GET STARTED
Drilling through the gas tank by accident is not as bad as reaching under a board and making sure the circular saw is cutting through while running. So look on the bright side!
I hope that isn't the voice of experience. I would have used a rubber washer and a screw to seal that hole.
The old steering shaft has a cadmium coating while the new one is zinc coated.
Cost savings.
That was a slick political statement by the "Appropriations Committee" stating after an "Inquiry" by the "Finance Committee" ...... "See I brought you an air ride seat." That was slick, Tim.
Happy Birthday
Tim could you share the part number for the air ride?
Link in the description.
happy birthday Christy
was the air seat a factory replacment or an after market unit?
Factory suspension. I re used the seat.
Happy birthday hopefully you enjoy
That would be my luck with the tank
happy birthday to Christie
Happy birthday tomorrow.
Thank you!
Tim once you took off the wheel, was it easy to install the seat bolts from below?
Yes, easy enough. Two person job.
One person job to remove…but two to get it put back on …to start the nuts.
Thanks, I have rim guard in mine
@@dennisward5665 the industrial tires will ‘stand’ on their own, so you can handle the Rimguard fairly easily.
Good job Tim and Christie
When you got into the steering wheel were you able to get the fore aft slop out? That has been annoying for me.
How many hours do you have on that tractor?
3650 or so.
@@TractorTimewithTim I think he meant hours that you put on it
@@erik_dk842 10 or so. Been sitting here in the shed with the wheel off for months!
Yellow zinc-oxide coating
How many hours on this tractor , is there anyway to prevent the damage ?
3650 Hours. It is simply wear. No big deal.
@@TractorTimewithTim good it’s not a huge expense but if it were built with either it able to be lubricated and or nylon inserts would seem to be an upgrade , rather than needing the steering shaft replacement as well ,
For got this was a used tractor before you acquired it
That could be the best product in the world and I wouldn’t use it again if I “patch kit” didn’t include the patch. What a joke.
I dunno what happened. Christy found a kit which DOES include the patch. Maybe I got messed up in my thinking/ordering. I'm not sure. Again, not sponsored. Just relaying my experience.
Are you guys gonna put a front and loader on it in the future?
Yep. We bought one. Loaned it to my brother Tom and nephew Randall to put on my dad’s 3320.
For now, we don’t need it since we have a matching one for our 3046r.
Finance committee approves jewelry store purchases...
Happy Birthday young man! Are the revenues from the TH-cam videos going to pay for the repairs? I doubt it given they number of repairs you are doing.
Probably not. But the low auction purchase price ($14,000) leaves room for the repair costs. Once fully re-habbed, this tractor should be worth much more than my investment.
Christy's birthday...not mine.
Happy birthday young lady! Have a great day!
Get your credit card out, and then you'll have to get a rubber light gasket for the missing one. Maybe get two. That is after you get Kristy a birthday 🎂 present.
Go ahead and blame the wife for missing pieses. It works for me to help me loose weight. Hahaha. Sorry Christy. Hahaha.
👍👍
Why is your diesel fuel pink?
Off road fuel. Cheaper because road use tax is not charged.
Have you named the cats yet? If not how about "Catbota" for one of them
🇨🇦
Kittens!!!!
Hopefully you greased up the parts 😮
Tim, don't you know that you have no right to repair your own JD tractor? Congrats, your warranty has been voided and JD shut down you tractor with it's last over the air update.
Hmm. Another fallacy. Not only does Deere not inhibit my repair, they actually provide many helpful resources to make it easier.
JB WELD works wonders $8.00