I think that this project tractor will be great for your channel. I’m surprised the city let this tractor go with no more problems than what you found. Some employee there loved this tractor. Showing how you make these repairs, costs, and how it changes it’s value will help others as they too repair their own used tractors. The uncomfortable Tim is coming more confident again. Looking forward to the farm videos.
I like that your using a second hand tractor to show how much value can be in a used machine. Your videos are awesome and this will help to show another side of tractor ownership. Some people cannot afford brand new and this can help to draw in new viewers and to also help show long term use issues. Good luck keep up the good content!!!!
My personal opinion is for someone like you with multiple tractors, having a tractor without a loader might be convenient. For jobs that you don't need or want a loader it is easier to jump on that tractor instead of removing the loader from another tractor. However for a 1 tractor owner I fully agree with your advice to get a loader.
I have to agree with this one 100% And also tractor with front PTO and 3-point hitch, I would take those in use. Front mounted snow blower would be perfect match with cab. Maybe rotary broom if there is need for it. So take benefit of different options you have.
You probably have almost all that is needed for 3520 roof. You have green paint i would think. That roof is fixable with an angle grinder, a sander, fiberglass repair kit, good filter breathing mask, safety glasses, in 15-20 hours and warm dry place to work it will look good and be weather tight again. Save those old fenders and with the leftover fiberglass kit fix them too. The fiberglass grinding and sanding is quite dusty dirty work, so beware. Enjoy the channel, learn lots, thank you and bless you.
Tim, With regards to your steering issue, there’s a bolt with a jam nut the center of the front axle that locates the axle in the front end of the tractor. If you loosen the jam nut, tighten the bolt down down until it stops and tighten the jam nut it should take the slop out to the front axle. (Unless something else is worn) You mentioned the tractor came from a city. It was probably maintained well but used hard. The tractor was probably used for trails, sidewalk and ice rink maintenance in the winter, probably softball field maintenance, pulling a drag, box blade and a batwing finish mower or rough cut mower in the summer. I think it’s cool for the channel to have an older used tractor on it. It adds a dynamic, about the trials and tribulations of buying used, to the channel for those that can’t afford or don’t want to spend for a new tractor. Thank you for putting out the good content!!
Hey Tim, I started watching your channel several years ago when you guys were still in Carmel. You're actually the reason that I decided to get a tractor. And my financial advisor wasn't crazy about it either so I did the right thing and bought one anyway. 😊 Two of the things that I remember most was you saying "never buy a used tractor without a loader" and "Rule #1 on tillers is something like(I can't remember word for word but) any tiller is a great tiller". When in doubt refer to rule #1. When you started this video and you said that you bought it without a loader that I was hearing things and I was going to comment about that but when you brought it up later I just started laughing. Another great video in a long line. God bless you guys and God bless America!
Before you replace that seal, if you have a heat gun, try doing some gentle heat on it to see if it has any resiliency and its original memory comes back. I've done that on various similar materials with good luck. Worse case you melt it and have to replace anyhow. Otherwise you might not need it.
We have a 2008 3720. It’s a great tractor. The setup you have on the front is for a snowblower. We use ours every winter for blowing snow. In the summer it gets a mid mount mower and spends its life doing that in summer on the airport I operate. Great tractor.
Wow, so many comments to read through and learn from. I’ve made a hobby/habit of purchasing the “wrong” tractor. I have few regrets to date, paying for my education as it were! Online auctions, really a risk/gamble but I enjoy tinkering. Still some value in most units if they are bought right, just have realistic expectations. If you are actually trying to make a living with a unit probably not the way to go. At 76 I’m past trying to make my fortune. Thanks Tim for all you provide us armchair farmers.
I believe that you can't overstate the value of a pre-DPF engine. This was a good purchase if for no other reason than being pre-emissions. Also, working air conditioning is very valuable. You could spend $500 to ??? fixing if it was broken. Time to pressure wash it, pull off the left rear wheel and do some sanding (or blasting) and painting. Overall I give it a thumbs up.
That's exactly what I do with my two 3720s. One has the cab and the other is an open station - the mount part numbers are different so be aware of that. I found new old stock mounts for the open station for $400 on eBay including tax and shipping. They are more costly than you might expect
I've been waiting for this video since the auction!! I'd have a snow blower hanging on the front! I have a 1025r I snow blow with I'm jealous of anything with a cab!
You got a great buy! I bought a one owner 2010 Case DX40 cab tractor without a loader several years ago it was a one owner machine an was used to feed cows with a 3 pt hitch hay spear an to mow with. It had only 700 hours on it ad had some issues very similar to yours. I love it and use it to mow and bush hog with on fence rows. And cut the banks on my lakes with a hydraulic sickle bar cutter. I paid $14,000 for it an 1,200 additional hours later I wouldn’t take $25,000 for it.. it’s totally dependable and always starts and is ready for any chore I want to do with it. Yellow jackets caused me to buy it and really glad it did! You will have that JD for a long long time…. Without all the EMISSION sensors it will be trouble free….
I feel you did okay Tim. A tractor without a loader will come in really handy in your inventory. You have all the other units with loaders and now if you need one without a loader. When the task needs a tractor without a loader there will be no need to fiddle around taking one off another unit. It will make an excellent cutting platform ( finish or flail mower and even rotary cutter).
Hey Tim, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the fact that there is a nail and a screw in the hinges has a lot to do with the seal being folded like that.
Been watching your videos for a long time and was reminded how small our world can be at times. I moved to Mendota IL a little over a year ago. Looking forward to eventually being able to afford to have my own tractor eventually.
One thing to consider with this tractor is it is nice to have a rougher machine for those jobs where you might bang up the tractor a bit, you wont sweat so hard if your cracked fender gets a big mark in it or another crack. My dad's advice to me was always get a bit rough looking, but good running work truck for the same reason (he has never taken his own advice as he backed in his new work truck into a stump last month)
I agree with pre scratched/scrap/dent if bought right. These are tools and stuff happens. Maintaining is where the personal value is. If your purchase was to impress, you need not have bought. JMO.
Do you need the shirt my wife has that says "In my defense i was left unsupervised"? Fiberglass repair is super simple indeed, you and the neighbor will be able to patch that up no problem. I loaned out my sailboat to a co-worker who had 4 boys and they damaged it slightly on the dock. He was all worried about it. It happened on Saturday, I had it fixed at the end of Sunday and sent him a picture. He felt a lot better. 🙂
The damage on the roof and fender are on a similar vertical line, I would suspect a sliding collision with a pole or building corner(since you think it was a salt spreader/snow blower). The door is probably new, but they lost the hitch pins from the original that was broken in the collision. You might want to put it on a lift to see if the frame is bent. That salt damage to the inside of those rims looked bad. That is one of the problems with painted metal and salt, by the time the paint bubles & flakes outward, the salt has corroded the metal inward A LOT. Auction fever gets even the best now and then. If you get your "money's worth" will be the determiner of whether it was a good or bad buy, that could be a long or short time. Your openness makes your channel great.
I was thinking the same as you about the door. They may have used the old door seal possibly explaining the bulge in the seal. I further think the loader valve handle was possibly damaged at the same time. The handle is an unusual item to break and that they replaced it with a different handle.
Sounds like you got a great tractor deal with years of work left in it. I started watching you and you were the reason I purchased a 1025R in 2019. I since up graded to the 2038R which suite my needs much better. Thanks for all the videos of instruction and how to use your equipment safely. Keep them coming. Thanks Tim. r
I don’t know if you got a good deal or not but I would love to have a cab on my kubota L3200. Except I do have a backhoe attachment on mine. Only because I’m older and at 69, I’m not getting any younger. God bless you Tim and your family!
If I were in your shoes, I would get the front 3 point arms and use the blower in the winter in a heated cab with a radio and hot cocoa. My blue mule has a cab and loader. Without the loader in the front, that front 3 point has a lot of possibilities that you may not have given much thought. It's a great buy Tim, even though it is green. Cheers.
Perhaps an aftermarket loader, both the choosing of, the installation, the performance and power of it, might be a great learning experience for us all. I think i would find it interesting and the other viewers might as well. Heck you might find the process fun and interesting as well. Just a thought, take care.
I was worried when I bought my tractor without a loader. However, I have not needed one yet. The 3pt attachment market is insanely awesome. I can even get a 3pt fast hitch that triples the raise height of the rear end via linkages if needed. I would then be able to stack round bales. Not that I use round bales or will even need that. Your tractor should be a good one for video material for your channel… and is very much a tool for Freedom in the right hands.
You have had sometime to evaluate your purchase and it turns out to not be the disaster you thought it to be. I am looking forward to the video repairs/cleanup on this tractor. You have a very understanding wife!
thanks for the video and pointing out some things to look for when purchasing a used tractor. lots of hours but as you said well taken care of and maintained. i have a little 1026R that is barely used at 176 hours. i've used the front end loader quite a bit for firewood and other stuff so i agree with having a loader. I've thought about trading it in but not sure what to get. i only have 3 acres and use box blade for my gravel drive, a rake to maintain it too or clean up the woods and a brush hog i use to keep the briars and saplings down in woods. ine thing i think i could use is a backhoe. not sure if adding it would be the best option or just get another machine with both. i have a few projects that could use one but it might be easier to rent.
Back in my day, a metal coat hanger worked really good for radio antenna... and THAT"S NO JOKE (uncle Joe B. said) LOL That configuration may have been a standard item on a state municipal contract bid. After hearing your explanation & seeing the condition tour, I think you did OK on the price! Good video thanks.
I think most people have some second thoughts about auction purchases at times. I bought my 955 with a loader from an auction and while driving it over to load it I knew there were problems with the front axle gears. After getting those fixed up it has been a great tractor.
Hi Tim, you can pick up a 50 pound sand blaster for around 40 bucks from Harbor freight, I love mine. As far as the interior a Mr. clean eraser or if you have a steamer, I’ve got one that I bought from Amazon for 40 bucks works real good for cleaning that stuff and then I have a brush set that I bought for a drill that I use with a degreaser, and you can clean just about anything with that. I personally think you have a really good deal there, and knowing you, you’ll fix it up real nice.
I get the feeling you regret the purchase, but have found out that it may not be as bad as you originally thought. Besides, it now gives you an opportunity for a bunch of new videos!
That would have been a good deal with a loader! It’s situations like your auction tractor is what made me buy new! Looked at a few older tractors ( within 10 years old) I found the ones with low hours weren’t far off a new price and the higher hour tractors needed a bunch of work! Not including unknown issues! I’ve had a couple 20 and 30 year old tractors in the past and seemed like I worked on them more than I used! I don’t mind maintenance and minor repairs or upgrades but when it breaks n down in the middle of a job is frustrating !
Thank you Tim very much for this video! I really like you and your videos. You are courageous. Anyone can make a bad perchase at an auction.With deep respect; what I personally came away from this video was I am so so glad I bought a new Kioti.
We have several more videos showing repairs/rehab on this tractor. We have had an enormous amount of fun with the rehab. Not sure why it has been so much fun, but it has!
You make a good point about hours not really mattering if the maintenance was performed correctly I just recently bought a Fendt with just about 10,000 hours on it. This tractor is in great condition and is in better condition compared to some of the other Fendt's I've seen in my area which don't even have 4,000 hours on them and already have severe issues. Great video!
hay Tim great video as always!!...about your rust there is a product made by a company call "rust check" called "rust converter" and it works!! you just clean off the loose stuff with a scraper and wire brush and spray it like paint and let dry and paint over it! it does what you want it to do!! thanks for all your effort with the videos I have learned a lot from you and just trying to pay it forward!!
thanks for sharing the video Tim, from a person that has bought two tractors at auction that I did not need I think you did fine, but I would seriously buy that loader now because the prices on it are only going to go up in time
It sounds like you did OK on the money side of the tractor. For me if I were using the tractor for myself or planning to sell it makes a difference in how I look at the problems. The question is does it work or affect how it works? To sell, it needs to look nice as well. I would fix the crack in the roof and hood: for personnel use I would not have worried about the fenders. The steering needs looking into. When you clean up the hydraulic lines you can decide if the rust is surface or if it is better to replace. Getting the third function mounted correctly is a must. Clean real good and spray rust conversion stuff on. Rust conversion helped my truck last a bit longer. I think that salt rust is likely your biggest problem and may show up in odd ways. Clean the pockets inside. I do not think you have any problem engine hour wise. You say the tractor looks well cared for, so that means that it likely got oil and grease at the right times. Putting the mowing hours on this tractor is a good idea. Looking forward to your other ideas that need low cost hours.
I would recommend sanding and repairing. I would not replace the fenders cause it’s a tractor. I would trim it up or patch it up. Or would get some rubber belts or something. But plastic fenders are impractical in my mind. You might check with Titan Tire if they have a big float tire for small tractors. But the tires are great for yard work. I love for you to test wheel spacers. Or dual if you could find used tires and rims like what you have. Have fun.
I bought a Kubota l4630 with cab a few years ago. I bought it for mowing duties only and it was my first cab tractor. First, mowing fields on open platform tractor in the Oklahoma heat and dust required a break about every 2 hours. With the cab and AC, I can bring my coffee, wear shorts and tennis shoes, eat a sandwich...or cheeseburger on the go and I dont have to worry about hornets or bees!
Hi Tim, our 3720 has about 1700 hours on it now and we occasionally notice the same squeak in the steering you notice. About a year ago we replaced the steering ball joints because they were sloppy. It sounds like you might be having the same issue. I think a front broom would be an awesome addition to this tractor.
@@TractorTimewithTim yes, it should be easy to see the movement in the steering components if you look at the back of the front axle while someone turns the wheel side to side. That is just our experience, but I always recommend doing a proper diagnosis before purchasing parts! We have not dug into the steering squeak on our machine as it happens uncommonly.
This is an awesome tractor for TTWT, it's going to give a lot of content for us to enjoy! Many issues you've pointed out haven't been shown in previous videos. Very interested in seeing how you do the fenders with the cab....
Hi Tim, Even though I live up by the Wisconsin/Illinois state line, I will in my travels occasionally go through Mendota, so at one time or another I might have seen your 3520. It looks like the Dealer sticker says it was bought from Holland and Sons, Mendota, which is now Prairie State Tractor.
I love that tractor for that value. 10 hours of dusty work inside that comfy cab would have made me bond with it. And with the the 3 point on the front, it looks like you already have a heated plow machine for the winter by just adding a rear blade to the front, right?
Good morning Sir, Another great video, just a quick suggestion if you haven't cleaned the headliner in the tractor yet don't use any liquid it will stain the headliner. All that is required is a lint brush. Hope it helps
Most all used tractors bought at auction need work. 99% of the time that's why they are at the auction. Buy some good tools and get after it :) If you like turning a wrench like I do it's a lot of fun actually.
Hi Tim, I have a 2005 3520 and just purchased a 3039. The 3039r didn't come with the loader so I took the loader off the 3520 and it went flawlessly onto the 3039r. I just had to change two hose ends for the snow blade rotation. My point is that if they stop making the loader for that machine, you can just buy the loader for that fits a 3039r and I would be it would fit right on the 3520. I use my 3520 now just as a mower and sand/salt spreader.
Hey Tim, I wouldn’t worry so much about the Cosmetics of the Tractor, look’s like it could use a good power washing first and deal with the roof and the steering, that’s important, then take care of the cosmetics on the tractor.
Hello I've been watching your channel for a while I may not be a help with all the parts on your tractor but I know I can help with the rest get a product called chorusal it converts the rust back into metal and it dries on black painting if you want to you don't really have to I've done a couple of my trailers in this stuff and I can tell you I love it and I guarantee it 100%
If the tires are original, you should consider replacing them. They could be 11 years old. Before my retirement, I was a safety director for a very large national construction company. We suffered a fatality when a tire failed from dry rot, and rolled over, crushing our driver. After extensive conversations with several large tire companies, we were told by all of them that after 10 years, REGARDLESS OF VISIBLE CRACKING OR NOT, tires can fail from dry rot. We did several things. We started checking dates on all tires we purchased, we stopped buying tires for "stock" and storing them until needed, and we also checked or fleet and replaced all tires 10 years old or older. It was very expensive to replace thousands of tires nationwide. However, our ignorance of dry rot issues after 10 years was also expensive, as it cost us a valued employee, a father and husband, and a friend of many. Please check your tire dates and don't dismiss dry rot risks based on the tires "looking worn but 'sensing' they are probably fine for use". Better to check dates stamped in the sidewall. They are coded as follows - 2311 would mean they were manufactured in the 23rd week of 2011, etc. When buying tires, check dates and demand fresh stock. You'll more likely to get your money's worth, and it just might save your life.
Tim If you ever visit europe again feel free to visit me , I have a Lovol 504 50 horse and an Iseki 1500 both tractors I dont see featured alot in America. and ofcourse some interesting implements that would make for a good video or two
Yes I agree. To go to the expense and trouble of replacing fenders, and then do the same damage! Ugh. Depends on where and how it is used of course. Wide open Wyoming ver Michigan woods.
Tim when you’re replacing fenders you should unbolt the rusted mounts for the cab/ROPS. My 4410 was used in a similar capacity as this tractor. While doing some other work we realized the salt had actually corroded the aluminum outer axle housing underneath the ROPS. Most likely from the salt and the Union of dissimilar metals. It was letting moisture into the hydraulics.
1200 hrs. I figured it out because I kept having moisture in the hydraulic fluid and I park inside. The tops of the housing were gone under those cab/rops mounts. The moisture was from the a/c drain lines. The major problem is if you look inside the rops mount in the center of the plate that sits on the axle housing you will see a hole. It is for an alignment pin on the axle housing. Salt and water can get down in that cavity and it is game over. I welded a cap on that hole. Then used a rubberized gasket maker to put between the aluminum housing and the steel rops/cab mount before reassembly. I never thought I would have this problem. I do plow snow here in PA but I wash my rig after every storm. I hopefully you don’t have this problem
Great video, my 1st get grand dr just a small rant canbe deep in a nap I start my jd2210 and up she comes Papa I'm coming to to help. & yes we gonna work
Steering I think is the o ring in the steering block because my dad owns a john deere 3130 and the wheels have a mind of there own but I wouldn’t know what the squeaking
On the front plastic crack by the grill, drill a tiny hole and the end of the crack so it will stop from spreading. I think you did fine on that tractor :)
I wonder if the seal on the RH door is damaged because the nail/machine screw hinge pins allow the seal to drag, thus damaging it. If you’re putting an $80 seal on the door, you may wanna replace the hinge pins
Having worked for a local government organization, I can tell you they buy equipment direct from manufactures at a SIGNIFICANT discount. You probably paid about what they bought it for new, or close to it. Thus they tend to buy decent machines and maintain them well. Typically though machines are self maintained and not by the dealer. The down side is many different operators and no sense of ownership, so care and concern for the equipment suffers. Some TLC and a few parts and you’ll be good.
Power wash it then change the oil and save the used oil. Put the used oil in a spray bottle and coat the rust areas! Great info on your purchase! Best Regards, Jay
The cab alone is worth many thousands. In 2005 I bought new, a 3120. It is an excellent, trouble-free tractor. I have never been disappointed. Although, I do have cab envy!
Thanks for the comprehensive review of of “your” purchase ;-) Interesting to see the “good the bad and the ugly” of the purchase, and your plans. Looks like there will be some repair videos coming up, and I’m guessing we’ll see some front three point hitch applications??? I’m sure we’ll see a Christy appearance with it soon….Blessings.
When you replace the door seal, just use some silicone spray on them to keep them pliable. I use it on my pickup and I don't have them sticking when it's really cold.
That door seal could be bad due to slight misalignment resulting from those hinge pin substitutions. Might want to rethink repair/replacement of those door hinges.
LOL I bid and thought someone outbid me but I found out I was the winner to my 3320 tractor. I didn't even go to the auction. Only see it through pictures but it has what I needed, the loader. My tractor have 1669hrs and I paid $13K plus buyer premium fee.
My question on the trade in value is when the dealer sees the broken fenders, top, and dinged up grill, are they gonna revise how much money they will allow for trade in? Or was that made clear to the dealer for the trade in quote? My thoughts are if you’re going to replace the fenders and repair the top, you may as well go whole hog, and replace any bad plastic and make wit look like a new one. It would drive me nuts driving around with shiny fenders and a faded hood! I bet when the snow falls that the Finance Chair will love being all toasty in the cab pushing snow all while watching you freeze on the platform tractor! Then again, I guess you could always jump in Johnny 5.
Steering wheel noise I can relate I purchased my 3320 in 07 and from day one it has had the noise, twice they have tried to fix it and finally said live with it. Poor plastic casting is my guess.
I'm surprised that they didn't run different tires on it for snow removal. At auctions sometimes they have people in there to get the price up and so you have to out bid them and you will pay more if you want it. Our first tractor we bought at an auction there were many people going at it. Then when the price got up high they backed off and we got it more than we expected to.
Yeah I’ve got the exact tires on my 3520, and they work beautifully in the snow, and I’m in Ottawa Canada, mind you I’ve got a lot more tread and they’re loaded with rim guard!
this is the same way i found the kubota i bought just nit pick stuff to fix tires no books and seat do want to put some bolt on hooks on the loader bucket but that is all i see right now on the tractor
Two things come to my mind, one, buy the loader now, it will never be cheaper than today, Two, I’m guessing the window seal problem on the right hand door has something to do with the improper hinge pins, jmo!
I think that this project tractor will be great for your channel. I’m surprised the city let this tractor go with no more problems than what you found. Some employee there loved this tractor. Showing how you make these repairs, costs, and how it changes it’s value will help others as they too repair their own used tractors. The uncomfortable Tim is coming more confident again. Looking forward to the farm videos.
I’ve worked in Municipalities and it’s very common for them to run a 10 year life cycle on equipment thats used regularly like this machine was.
Really appreciate your honesty. I’ve been there and done that at an auction. It’s easy to get carried away lol.
💥 No more unsupervised auctions for you Tim. Sorry Christy.
*Keep on tractoring!*
I like that your using a second hand tractor to show how much value can be in a used machine. Your videos are awesome and this will help to show another side of tractor ownership. Some people cannot afford brand new and this can help to draw in new viewers and to also help show long term use issues. Good luck keep up the good content!!!!
My personal opinion is for someone like you with multiple tractors, having a tractor without a loader might be convenient. For jobs that you don't need or want a loader it is easier to jump on that tractor instead of removing the loader from another tractor. However for a 1 tractor owner I fully agree with your advice to get a loader.
I have to agree with this one 100% And also tractor with front PTO and 3-point hitch, I would take those in use. Front mounted snow blower would be perfect match with cab. Maybe rotary broom if there is need for it.
So take benefit of different options you have.
You probably have almost all that is needed for 3520 roof. You have green paint i would think. That roof is fixable with an angle grinder, a sander, fiberglass repair kit, good filter breathing mask, safety glasses, in 15-20 hours and warm dry place to work it will look good and be weather tight again. Save those old fenders and with the leftover fiberglass kit fix them too. The fiberglass grinding and sanding is quite dusty dirty work, so beware. Enjoy the channel, learn lots, thank you and bless you.
Tim, With regards to your steering issue, there’s a bolt with a jam nut the center of the front axle that locates the axle in the front end of the tractor. If you loosen the jam nut, tighten the bolt down down until it stops and tighten the jam nut it should take the slop out to the front axle. (Unless something else is worn) You mentioned the tractor came from a city. It was probably maintained well but used hard. The tractor was probably used for trails, sidewalk and ice rink maintenance in the winter, probably softball field maintenance, pulling a drag, box blade and a batwing finish mower or rough cut mower in the summer. I think it’s cool for the channel to have an older used tractor on it. It adds a dynamic, about the trials and tribulations of buying used, to the channel for those that can’t afford or don’t want to spend for a new tractor. Thank you for putting out the good content!!
Hey Tim, I started watching your channel several years ago when you guys were still in Carmel. You're actually the reason that I decided to get a tractor. And my financial advisor wasn't crazy about it either so I did the right thing and bought one anyway. 😊 Two of the things that I remember most was you saying "never buy a used tractor without a loader" and "Rule #1 on tillers is something like(I can't remember word for word but) any tiller is a great tiller". When in doubt refer to rule #1. When you started this video and you said that you bought it without a loader that I was hearing things and I was going to comment about that but when you brought it up later I just started laughing. Another great video in a long line. God bless you guys and God bless America!
Before you replace that seal, if you have a heat gun, try doing some gentle heat on it to see if it has any resiliency and its original memory comes back. I've done that on various similar materials with good luck. Worse case you melt it and have to replace anyhow. Otherwise you might not need it.
And, get some weather strip adhesive from NAPA, or any parts house, that services the body shop market.
We have a 2008 3720. It’s a great tractor. The setup you have on the front is for a snowblower. We use ours every winter for blowing snow. In the summer it gets a mid mount mower and spends its life doing that in summer on the airport I operate. Great tractor.
Someone is fixin' to have their credit card taken away!
Wow, so many comments to read through and learn from. I’ve made a hobby/habit of purchasing the “wrong” tractor. I have few regrets to date, paying for my education as it were! Online auctions, really a risk/gamble but I enjoy tinkering. Still some value in most units if they are bought right, just have realistic expectations. If you are actually trying to make a living with a unit probably not the way to go. At 76 I’m past trying to make my fortune. Thanks Tim for all you provide us armchair farmers.
Buy the things you want Tim! In an earlier video I saw you worked 30 years. You have done your time Get out there and enjoy yourself no regrets!
Thx. 30 yrs in software, and the last 3-4 full time TH-cam. More hours than the software job! …but more fun too!
I believe that you can't overstate the value of a pre-DPF engine. This was a good purchase if for no other reason than being pre-emissions. Also, working air conditioning is very valuable. You could spend $500 to ??? fixing if it was broken. Time to pressure wash it, pull off the left rear wheel and do some sanding (or blasting) and painting. Overall I give it a thumbs up.
Tim, consider looking to see if you can buy loader mounts only and share your loader between the 3046R and this cabbed machine!
That's exactly what I do with my two 3720s. One has the cab and the other is an open station - the mount part numbers are different so be aware of that. I found new old stock mounts for the open station for $400 on eBay including tax and shipping. They are more costly than you might expect
I've been waiting for this video since the auction!! I'd have a snow blower hanging on the front! I have a 1025r I snow blow with I'm jealous of anything with a cab!
You got a great buy! I bought a one owner 2010 Case DX40 cab tractor without a loader several years ago it was a one owner machine an was used to feed cows with a 3 pt hitch hay spear an to mow with. It had only 700 hours on it ad had some issues very similar to yours. I love it and use it to mow and bush hog with on fence rows. And cut the banks on my lakes with a hydraulic sickle bar cutter. I paid $14,000 for it an 1,200 additional hours later I wouldn’t take $25,000 for it.. it’s totally dependable and always starts and is ready for any chore I want to do with it. Yellow jackets caused me to buy it and really glad it did! You will have that JD for a long long time…. Without all the EMISSION sensors it will be trouble free….
I feel you did okay Tim. A tractor without a loader will come in really handy in your inventory. You have all the other units with loaders and now if you need one without a loader. When the task needs a tractor without a loader there will be no need to fiddle around taking one off another unit. It will make an excellent cutting platform ( finish or flail mower and even rotary cutter).
Hey Tim, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the fact that there is a nail and a screw in the hinges has a lot to do with the seal being folded like that.
My thoughts is the door was pulled for open cab feel in off season
Been watching your videos for a long time and was reminded how small our world can be at times. I moved to Mendota IL a little over a year ago. Looking forward to eventually being able to afford to have my own tractor eventually.
One thing to consider with this tractor is it is nice to have a rougher machine for those jobs where you might bang up the tractor a bit, you wont sweat so hard if your cracked fender gets a big mark in it or another crack. My dad's advice to me was always get a bit rough looking, but good running work truck for the same reason (he has never taken his own advice as he backed in his new work truck into a stump last month)
I agree with pre scratched/scrap/dent if bought right. These are tools and stuff happens. Maintaining is where the personal value is. If your purchase was to impress, you need not have bought. JMO.
I'm sure they make duct tape in john deere green, it'll fix that roof crack in seconds 😆 🤣
Do you need the shirt my wife has that says "In my defense i was left unsupervised"? Fiberglass repair is super simple indeed, you and the neighbor will be able to patch that up no problem. I loaned out my sailboat to a co-worker who had 4 boys and they damaged it slightly on the dock. He was all worried about it. It happened on Saturday, I had it fixed at the end of Sunday and sent him a picture. He felt a lot better. 🙂
The damage on the roof and fender are on a similar vertical line, I would suspect a sliding collision with a pole or building corner(since you think it was a salt spreader/snow blower). The door is probably new, but they lost the hitch pins from the original that was broken in the collision. You might want to put it on a lift to see if the frame is bent. That salt damage to the inside of those rims looked bad. That is one of the problems with painted metal and salt, by the time the paint bubles & flakes outward, the salt has corroded the metal inward A LOT.
Auction fever gets even the best now and then. If you get your "money's worth" will be the determiner of whether it was a good or bad buy, that could be a long or short time.
Your openness makes your channel great.
I was thinking the same as you about the door. They may have used the old door seal possibly explaining the bulge in the seal. I further think the loader valve handle was possibly damaged at the same time. The handle is an unusual item to break and that they replaced it with a different handle.
Sounds like you got a great tractor deal with years of work left in it. I started watching you and you were the reason I purchased a 1025R in 2019. I since up graded to the 2038R which suite my needs much better. Thanks for all the videos of instruction and how to use your equipment safely. Keep them coming. Thanks Tim.
r
I don’t know if you got a good deal or not but I would love to have a cab on my kubota L3200. Except I do have a backhoe attachment on mine. Only because I’m older and at 69, I’m not getting any younger. God bless you Tim and your family!
Looks like you have a good project tractor, Tim. Can’t wait to see some future videos of it.
If I were in your shoes, I would get the front 3 point arms and use the blower in the winter in a heated cab with a radio and hot cocoa. My blue mule has a cab and loader. Without the loader in the front, that front 3 point has a lot of possibilities that you may not have given much thought. It's a great buy Tim, even though it is green. Cheers.
I have a 2008 3520 with a cab 300cx loader, front mount blower I've put 800 hours on it previous owner was a state college. I absolutely love it
I just love Christy and her self control. Bless her! She is going to have a lot of jewels in her crown. Hello from NC.
Perhaps an aftermarket loader, both the choosing of, the installation, the performance and power of it, might be a great learning experience for us all. I think i would find it interesting and the other viewers might as well. Heck you might find the process fun and interesting as well. Just a thought, take care.
I was worried when I bought my tractor without a loader.
However, I have not needed one yet.
The 3pt attachment market is insanely awesome. I can even get a 3pt fast hitch that triples the raise height of the rear end via linkages if needed.
I would then be able to stack round bales. Not that I use round bales or will even need that.
Your tractor should be a good one for video material for your channel… and is very much a tool for Freedom in the right hands.
You have had sometime to evaluate your purchase and it turns out to not be the disaster you thought it to be. I am looking forward to the video repairs/cleanup on this tractor. You have a very understanding wife!
thanks for the video and pointing out some things to look for when purchasing a used tractor. lots of hours but as you said well taken care of and maintained. i have a little 1026R that is barely used at 176 hours. i've used the front end loader quite a bit for firewood and other stuff so i agree with having a loader. I've thought about trading it in but not sure what to get. i only have 3 acres and use box blade for my gravel drive, a rake to maintain it too or clean up the woods and a brush hog i use to keep the briars and saplings down in woods. ine thing i think i could use is a backhoe. not sure if adding it would be the best option or just get another machine with both. i have a few projects that could use one but it might be easier to rent.
Back in my day, a metal coat hanger worked really good for radio antenna... and THAT"S NO JOKE (uncle Joe B. said) LOL That configuration may have been a standard item on a state municipal contract bid. After hearing your explanation & seeing the condition tour, I think you did OK on the price! Good video thanks.
I think most people have some second thoughts about auction purchases at times. I bought my 955 with a loader from an auction and while driving it over to load it I knew there were problems with the front axle gears. After getting those fixed up it has been a great tractor.
I appreciate the honesty. It looks like it'll be a fun project and great content for the channel.
Hi Tim, you can pick up a 50 pound sand blaster for around 40 bucks from Harbor freight, I love mine. As far as the interior a Mr. clean eraser or if you have a steamer, I’ve got one that I bought from Amazon for 40 bucks works real good for cleaning that stuff and then I have a brush set that I bought for a drill that I use with a degreaser, and you can clean just about anything with that. I personally think you have a really good deal there, and knowing you, you’ll fix it up real nice.
I get the feeling you regret the purchase, but have found out that it may not be as bad as you originally thought. Besides, it now gives you an opportunity for a bunch of new videos!
I regret sleeping in the barn!
@@TractorTimewithTim I have been married 38 years. You showed some balls buying that without asking first. Either way, it is a cool tractor,
@@TractorTimewithTim Kitties are also good friends in the barn so no big harm sleeping there once in a while "rofl"
That would have been a good deal with a loader!
It’s situations like your auction tractor is what made me buy new! Looked at a few older tractors ( within 10 years old) I found the ones with low hours weren’t far off a new price and the higher hour tractors needed a bunch of work! Not including unknown issues!
I’ve had a couple 20 and 30 year old tractors in the past and seemed like I worked on them more than I used! I don’t mind maintenance and minor repairs or upgrades but when it breaks n down in the middle of a job is frustrating !
Thank you Tim very much for this video! I really like you and your videos. You are courageous. Anyone can make a bad perchase at an auction.With deep respect; what I personally came away from this video was I am so so glad I bought a new Kioti.
We have several more videos showing repairs/rehab on this tractor.
We have had an enormous amount of fun with the rehab. Not sure why it has been so much fun, but it has!
You make a good point about hours not really mattering if the maintenance was performed correctly I just recently bought a Fendt with just about 10,000 hours on it. This tractor is in great condition and is in better condition compared to some of the other Fendt's I've seen in my area which don't even have 4,000 hours on them and already have severe issues. Great video!
Tim you mentioned mowing if that’s your goal then you have no use for a loader. Enjoy your purchase.
hay Tim great video as always!!...about your rust there is a product made by a company call "rust check" called "rust converter"
and it works!! you just clean off the loose stuff with a scraper and wire brush and spray it like paint and let dry and paint over it! it does what you want it to do!!
thanks for all your effort with the videos I have learned a lot from you and just trying to pay it forward!!
Sounds good!
I bought a military HMMWV on an online auction. Had a great experience. I plan to do it again.🍻🇺🇸
thanks for sharing the video Tim, from a person that has bought two tractors at auction that I did not need I think you did fine, but I would seriously buy that loader now because the prices on it are only going to go up in time
It sounds like you did OK on the money side of the tractor. For me if I were using the tractor for myself or planning to sell it makes a difference in how I look at the problems. The question is does it work or affect how it works? To sell, it needs to look nice as well. I would fix the crack in the roof and hood: for personnel use I would not have worried about the fenders. The steering needs looking into. When you clean up the hydraulic lines you can decide if the rust is surface or if it is better to replace. Getting the third function mounted correctly is a must. Clean real good and spray rust conversion stuff on. Rust conversion helped my truck last a bit longer. I think that salt rust is likely your biggest problem and may show up in odd ways. Clean the pockets inside. I do not think you have any problem engine hour wise. You say the tractor looks well cared for, so that means that it likely got oil and grease at the right times. Putting the mowing hours on this tractor is a good idea. Looking forward to your other ideas that need low cost hours.
I would recommend sanding and repairing. I would not replace the fenders cause it’s a tractor. I would trim it up or patch it up. Or would get some rubber belts or something. But plastic fenders are impractical in my mind.
You might check with Titan Tire if they have a big float tire for small tractors. But the tires are great for yard work.
I love for you to test wheel spacers. Or dual if you could find used tires and rims like what you have.
Have fun.
I bought a Kubota l4630 with cab a few years ago. I bought it for mowing duties only and it was my first cab tractor. First, mowing fields on open platform tractor in the Oklahoma heat and dust required a break about every 2 hours. With the cab and AC, I can bring my coffee, wear shorts and tennis shoes, eat a sandwich...or cheeseburger on the go and I dont have to worry about hornets or bees!
Hi Tim, our 3720 has about 1700 hours on it now and we occasionally notice the same squeak in the steering you notice. About a year ago we replaced the steering ball joints because they were sloppy. It sounds like you might be having the same issue. I think a front broom would be an awesome addition to this tractor.
Ok, so the ball joints will fix the sloppy steering, but will NOT fix the squeak…correct?
@@TractorTimewithTim yes, it should be easy to see the movement in the steering components if you look at the back of the front axle while someone turns the wheel side to side. That is just our experience, but I always recommend doing a proper diagnosis before purchasing parts! We have not dug into the steering squeak on our machine as it happens uncommonly.
This is an awesome tractor for TTWT, it's going to give a lot of content for us to enjoy!
Many issues you've pointed out haven't been shown in previous videos. Very interested in seeing how you do the fenders with the cab....
Hi Tim,
Even though I live up by the Wisconsin/Illinois state line, I will in my travels occasionally go through Mendota, so at one time or another I might have seen your 3520.
It looks like the Dealer sticker says it was bought from Holland and Sons, Mendota, which is now Prairie State Tractor.
Very nice video. Enjoy your knowledge.
Great vid. Appreciate both you and Christy being honest...how refreshing!
Tim. Sold today at farm auction. 3520 cab with loader 935 hrs. 20 k. It was in really good shape. No rust in texas. FYI
Uhoh!
I love that tractor for that value. 10 hours of dusty work inside that comfy cab would have made me bond with it. And with the the 3 point on the front, it looks like you already have a heated plow machine for the winter by just adding a rear blade to the front, right?
Not positive that the front 3 pt is truly compatible.
@@TractorTimewithTim That's a good point. The front 3 pt is still a cool option, so I look forward to seeing what it will work with.
Good morning Sir,
Another great video, just a quick suggestion if you haven't cleaned the headliner in the tractor yet don't use any liquid it will stain the headliner. All that is required is a lint brush. Hope it helps
Seems like a great content creator. I like fixing up old stuff. For insrance my car has 407k miles.
Most all used tractors bought at auction need work. 99% of the time that's why they are at the auction. Buy some good tools and get after it :) If you like turning a wrench like I do it's a lot of fun actually.
Properly Functioning, Factory cab, John Deere, minor improvements needed for $14k , seems like a perfectly fine buy to me.
I would check the rear axle under cab mount, Salt eats away the aluminum housing and water leaks into the rear end.
Hi Tim, I have a 2005 3520 and just purchased a 3039. The 3039r didn't come with the loader so I took the loader off the 3520 and it went flawlessly onto the 3039r. I just had to change two hose ends for the snow blade rotation. My point is that if they stop making the loader for that machine, you can just buy the loader for that fits a 3039r and I would be it would fit right on the 3520. I use my 3520 now just as a mower and sand/salt spreader.
That is the loader I priced (320R).
It's like buying a house. Not everything is perfect, but how much can you live with before improvements are needed or wanted...
Hey Tim, I wouldn’t worry so much about the Cosmetics of the Tractor, look’s like it could use a good power washing first and deal with the roof and the steering, that’s important, then take care of the cosmetics on the tractor.
Hello I've been watching your channel for a while I may not be a help with all the parts on your tractor but I know I can help with the rest get a product called chorusal it converts the rust back into metal and it dries on black painting if you want to you don't really have to I've done a couple of my trailers in this stuff and I can tell you I love it and I guarantee it 100%
If the tires are original, you should consider replacing them. They could be 11 years old. Before my retirement, I was a safety director for a very large national construction company. We suffered a fatality when a tire failed from dry rot, and rolled over, crushing our driver. After extensive conversations with several large tire companies, we were told by all of them that after 10 years, REGARDLESS OF VISIBLE CRACKING OR NOT, tires can fail from dry rot. We did several things. We started checking dates on all tires we purchased, we stopped buying tires for "stock" and storing them until needed, and we also checked or fleet and replaced all tires 10 years old or older. It was very expensive to replace thousands of tires nationwide. However, our ignorance of dry rot issues after 10 years was also expensive, as it cost us a valued employee, a father and husband, and a friend of many. Please check your tire dates and don't dismiss dry rot risks based on the tires "looking worn but 'sensing' they are probably fine for use". Better to check dates stamped in the sidewall. They are coded as follows - 2311 would mean they were manufactured in the 23rd week of 2011, etc. When buying tires, check dates and demand fresh stock. You'll more likely to get your money's worth, and it just might save your life.
Pretty sure these are not original tires.
I think you have a good start to a fun project.....
Just loved the off camera comments.
Tim If you ever visit europe again feel free to visit me , I have a Lovol 504 50 horse and an Iseki 1500 both tractors I dont see featured alot in America. and ofcourse some interesting implements that would make for a good video or two
Interesting video. I would probably just run with the broken fenders. Heck, I might break the new ones by accident!
Yes I agree. To go to the expense and trouble of replacing fenders, and then do the same damage! Ugh. Depends on where and how it is used of course. Wide open Wyoming ver Michigan woods.
Yea, I get it. For whatever reason, the broken fenders bother me!
@@TractorTimewithTim Understood. Being cheap and lazy I’m not sure if I would. I agree you should, why not?
Nice tractor, looking forward to watching the videos as you work on the items you identified.
Check the bushings in the steering system and that squeak in the steering is plastic rubbing
What about just adding the brackets and sharing the loader between the 3r and the 3x20? Same with the mower deck
Entirely possible.
Tim when you’re replacing fenders you should unbolt the rusted mounts for the cab/ROPS. My 4410 was used in a similar capacity as this tractor. While doing some other work we realized the salt had actually corroded the aluminum outer axle housing underneath the ROPS. Most likely from the salt and the Union of dissimilar metals. It was letting moisture into the hydraulics.
How did you fix?
I had the same problem on my 3720. I had to buy new axle housing for both sides.
Ugh. How many hours on your 3720 when this happened?
1200 hrs. I figured it out because I kept having moisture in the hydraulic fluid and I park inside. The tops of the housing were gone under those cab/rops mounts. The moisture was from the a/c drain lines. The major problem is if you look inside the rops mount in the center of the plate that sits on the axle housing you will see a hole. It is for an alignment pin on the axle housing. Salt and water can get down in that cavity and it is game over. I welded a cap on that hole. Then used a rubberized gasket maker to put between the aluminum housing and the steel rops/cab mount before reassembly. I never thought I would have this problem. I do plow snow here in PA but I wash my rig after every storm. I hopefully you don’t have this problem
Great video, my 1st get grand dr just a small rant canbe deep in a nap I start my jd2210 and up she comes Papa I'm coming to to help. & yes we gonna work
Steering I think is the o ring in the steering block because my dad owns a john deere 3130 and the wheels have a mind of there own but I wouldn’t know what the squeaking
On the front plastic crack by the grill, drill a tiny hole and the end of the crack so it will stop from spreading. I think you did fine on that tractor :)
May have paid a little to much for a that machine. But, hey you have a pretty decent tractor. Especially with a cab.
The tractor was a good purchase, once the fenders replaced it will look like new. It will make a great mowing and tilling tractor for sure!
Christy... Tim was weak and momentarily was caught up in (Tractor (cab) time with Tim)
I'm sure there will be a really nice anniversary gift coming!!
I've got a 3520 open station that I use quite often on my channel. I love that little tractor!
I wonder if the seal on the RH door is damaged because the nail/machine screw hinge pins allow the seal to drag, thus damaging it. If you’re putting an $80 seal on the door, you may wanna replace the hinge pins
Having worked for a local government organization, I can tell you they buy equipment direct from manufactures at a SIGNIFICANT discount. You probably paid about what they bought it for new, or close to it. Thus they tend to buy decent machines and maintain them well. Typically though machines are self maintained and not by the dealer. The down side is many different operators and no sense of ownership, so care and concern for the equipment suffers. Some TLC and a few parts and you’ll be good.
Caffeine jitters can make a hand go up past plan.. I need to re watch auction video to see if Tim was drinking coffee.
Power wash it then change the oil and save the used oil. Put the used oil in a spray bottle and coat the rust areas! Great info on your purchase! Best Regards, Jay
The cab alone is worth many thousands. In 2005 I bought new, a 3120. It is an excellent, trouble-free tractor. I have never been disappointed. Although, I do have cab envy!
Thanks for the comprehensive review of of “your” purchase ;-) Interesting to see the “good the bad and the ugly” of the purchase, and your plans. Looks like there will be some repair videos coming up, and I’m guessing we’ll see some front three point hitch applications??? I’m sure we’ll see a Christy appearance with it soon….Blessings.
When you replace the door seal, just use some silicone spray on them to keep them pliable. I use it on my pickup and I don't have them sticking when it's really cold.
That door seal could be bad due to slight misalignment resulting from those hinge pin substitutions. Might want to rethink repair/replacement of those door hinges.
Ok.
Ok.
LOL I bid and thought someone outbid me but I found out I was the winner to my 3320 tractor. I didn't even go to the auction. Only see it through pictures but it has what I needed, the loader. My tractor have 1669hrs and I paid $13K plus buyer premium fee.
Good buy!
My question on the trade in value is when the dealer sees the broken fenders, top, and dinged up grill, are they gonna revise how much money they will allow for trade in? Or was that made clear to the dealer for the trade in quote?
My thoughts are if you’re going to replace the fenders and repair the top, you may as well go whole hog, and replace any bad plastic and make wit look like a new one. It would drive me nuts driving around with shiny fenders and a faded hood! I bet when the snow falls that the Finance Chair will love being all toasty in the cab pushing snow all while watching you freeze on the platform tractor! Then again, I guess you could always jump in Johnny 5.
Westendorf also offers a loader for the 3520. It's the Model TA-170 and I believe they offer it in matching Deere green.
I have a open cab 3520 and wish I had the cab. I would get more seat time in the summer if I had a cab. ❤
Steering wheel noise I can relate I purchased my 3320 in 07 and from day one it has had the noise, twice they have tried to fix it and finally said live with it. Poor plastic casting is my guess.
Use Dawn Powerwash on those side panels, you will be amazed how well that stuff works
I'm surprised that they didn't run different tires on it for snow removal. At auctions sometimes they have people in there to get the price up and so you have to out bid them and you will pay more if you want it. Our first tractor we bought at an auction there were many people going at it. Then when the price got up high they backed off and we got it more than we expected to.
Turf tires are far superior to industrials on snow.
Yeah I’ve got the exact tires on my 3520, and they work beautifully in the snow, and I’m in Ottawa Canada, mind you I’ve got a lot more tread and they’re loaded with rim guard!
this is the same way i found the kubota i bought just nit pick stuff to fix tires no books and seat do want to put some bolt on hooks on the loader bucket but that is all i see right now on the tractor
I think this will be an interesting project. Keep us informed. 👍
It has been lots of fun..we show LOTs of improvements and fixes in later videos. Check em out!
Two things come to my mind, one, buy the loader now, it will never be cheaper than today,
Two, I’m guessing the window seal problem on the right hand door has something to do with the improper hinge pins, jmo!
Love the "new" tractor! I say keep it. Will make for very interesting videos!