3 Point Hitch MISMATCH! John Deere 4075R 3 Point Cat 2 Upgrade, Compact Tractor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2023
- The new model John Deere 4075R comes with a Category 1 3 point hitch. Tractor Time with Tim switches the standard hitch for a category 2 hitch and new top link so he can put the 4075R to the test with a roll over plow!
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Anxious to see what you come up with Tim, pushing the 4075R to the max for sure with the 3 bottom.
It looks like Deere took a page out of Kubota's playbook for that top link connection point..."we want this space just a wee bit too tight...you have a grinder, right?" I fought that same issue with the AgriStore top link on my LX. Also, that's a pretty impressive exercise regime Tim. "Plow Lifting", soon to be an Olympic sport! 👍😁
The quick hitch that I bought is Cat 1 on the tractor mounting points and Cat 2 for the attachment. Seems to work OK. Still need to have some bushings handy sometimes depending on attachment. Appreciate the info on the lift arms,
Thank you, Tim! I don't have Cat. 2 issues with my smaller tractor, but you gave me an education, and now Feature Envy! I never knew a tractor has electrically controlled reverse to ease implement connection. I want that!! 😆
Some brands will let you add certain features. All it takes is 💰 money. 😆 LOL
This feature is standard on the Deere.
Thanks Tim! This is very intriguing to me. I have the 4066R and I have issues with it lifting from the cab too. It's kind weird but I can reach out the back glass and turn the lifting nob and it lift way higher than inside the cab. I look forward to watching the up coming videos with this tractor. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the base education on hitch implements.
Great information on the cat 1 and 2 and how to adapt!
Thank You Tim! Always infomative.
Another great video Tim. I would of thought that tractor would of had enough lift capacity. Hopefully you can make it work.
That plow is a beast and heavily built. So, you’ve hooked me on the cliff hangar to see what happens….so reel me in! 😉 Blessings.
My 5100e has the adjustable links and makes a big difference when hooking up. I have a 85” bucket and use 1200lbs of counter weight plus weighted wheels.
Wow!! I had no clue that a 4000 series only utilized a Cat 1 3pt!! How on earth would Deere have not put at Cat 2 on that model is baffling to me. 🤯
That’s crazy those lift arms should be at least an option if not standard hope you can lift that plow would love to see it in action
Awesome information and totally agree with the lower arms ... JD are you listening?
Tim I see your still waiting on your right hand door kit from
Bolt on hooks ?
I mentioned $20 shipping was a little high for that little shock in those two brackets so Ken or someone they're both on hooks cut the price in half !!
Only $10 for shipping !
That was super cool of them !!
I told the parts manager at Ag Pro that Bolton hooks had come out with this door kit for the 3 and 4 series John Deere cabs, and he was really impressed. He still doesn't understand why John Deere never did add that shock from the factory ?
I absolutely love my hydraulic top link and the I-Match for my tractor. In fact, the hydraulic top link is a necessity.
I don't even have to get out of the cab to hook up any of my attachments with the I-Match and the hydraulic top link. I can open my rear window and literally just reach back in either open the levers or lock them down from the seat of my cab.
I have a category, 2 Bush Hog rear blade, 7002 ?without the hydraulic top link I wouldn't be able to use it. I need the tilt to lift it high enough !
That's where the category-1 and category-2 is a huge difference is because the category-2
the tractor larger and taller and will lift much higher !
In a category 1 of course the tractors are smaller and lower to the ground like the 1-series and 2-series even the 3-series isn't that tall with the small tire size option so you need that tilt in order to lift the implement or attachment high enough if that makes since ??
The 4-series is the tallest in the compact tractor size because of the larger tires of course, and John Deere even adds a second step as you can see in the 4-series.
God bless you and Christy. Hopefully we get some rain soon the corn and beans need it !!
I'm not including my lawn ....lol
I haven't had to mow in two weeks !!
And now, of course, I have to water my garden every other day !!
I didn't know a tractor had a hook up assist feature. That is so awesome! My grandad would have loved that! Thanks for the videos.
This feature is incredible! First time I have ever had a tractor with it. Of course, this one is only a short term loaner.
My 4066r came with the hydraulic pressure set at 2100 psi but it's supposed to be 2600 might want to check. If it's set to low and. U adjust it to the proper setting it might actually be enough to lift the plow
I guess I'll wait for the follow up video to see what happens, but I'm guessing this tractor and attachment pair aren't a match made in heaven. Good luck tim.
Thank you Tim for helping me figure out something. I have a swing type stump grinder that came with these inline manual hydraulic flow controls on it. The flow control body is aluminum with an adapter screwed in it to give us a JIC fitting. The hole in the adapter is pretty large for the thread size and it broke off leaving the thread portion in the hole. It was easy to get out but I couldn’t figure out what the thread size was to get a new adapter. I was a machinist for 12 years and I couldn’t figure out what it was. When you were talking about the top link you mentioned BSPP thread. I went and looked that up and I think that is what it is. It is not an ORB or UNO thread so I will try the BSPP.
Something insignificant sometimes can help a person.
Thanks!
Thanks Jeff.
DisocuntHydraulicHose.com has a set of thread guide templates that can make this easier. Use code TTWT as always :-)
Looks like that hydraulic top link would be useful Tim , maybe you could wind in the levelling links to give you more height as well
It seems short sighted by JD not to just include the deluxe arms on a deluxe tractor of this size and price.
So i guess now you have 11 tractors in TTWT land. Lol, At least for a while.😂 A lot more than a few years. LOL
Im sold on the lift arms upgrade just for the extendable end links.
Great video. I agree with Straight Arrow that you should have mentioned the possibility of using a quick hitch to adapt the cat 2 to your cat 1, even if your plow is not quick hitch compatible.
That tractor is a big diddappointment for a 75 horse tractor.
I disagree, yet I see your point.
This tractor fits a need. Excellent for PTO work like we showed last episode.
As you will see in the next episode, it is competent as a ‘pulling’ type tractor. This is its ‘weak spot’, but it is still competent.
If ground engaging pulling power is your primary usage, get a 5e. If only occasional, then the hydrostatic transmission of the 4R may be right right machine for you.
Thanks Tim. Great to see the TA12470 and TA12471 lift arms. Would love to get some for my 4066M since I have some cat 2 implements and hate changing pins. My Mahindra is cat 2 so I have to be select on what tractor to use. This arm change option may minimize that. Hope they will work on the 4066M. Will research this option. Nice plow and look fwd to seeing it in action.
Yep. Will work fine on the M.
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Great information Tim! Curious if moving the attach point of the three point arm to the tractor may help with the leverage? Would moving from the top hole to the middle or bottom help? Probably the wrong direction. Very disappointing it doesn't have more lift capacity...
Nice cliffhanger to the next episode. I'll bet AHW will be talking with the Deere to make the link arms an option. I found it interesting when you mentioned about these arms in regards to the 4052/4066M HD. Makes me curious about how this applies when using an iMatch quick hitch setup.
Looks to me that Christy gets to drive while you walk behind lifting the plow up at each turn. Seems a little old fashion to me.
Dang I’m late . Let’s get started !
@Tim just lower the bucket down enough to raise the front to lift the plow higher.
My Kubota L5740 has cat 2 3pt I use the bushings with it most of my implements are cat 1 so I can use the with my Kubota L2650 cat 1 3pt I do like the telescopic links on my Kubota L5740 it makes hooking up implements so much faster
Our Leyland tractor had replaceable balls in the ends of the draft arms and we had a set of catagory 1 and catagory 2 balls that we could easily pop in and out. Can you buy the two way balls separately that came with the new draft arms and have them installed in your original draft arms by a shop?
I would make it a 2-bottom plow. It will be less stress on the category 1 too.
Are the PATS quick connects available for CAT 1 that provide a CAT 2 connection?
whats better 3 series or 4 series also would you ever consider a jcb 1cxt instead of a tractor and backhoe
You can buy replacement weld on ball joints.
Hydraulic top link is the bomb. Also a cat 2 quick would be better
Great video. What is the tractor rated for. Two plows or three. I guess if it was not a roll over plow it would pick it up.
I looking forward to you trying to plow normal depth with that setup. I'll say that if it can't lift it, it can't pull it, especially with those tires and a hydro tranny.
Massie Fergusons come standard with Cat I/II lift arms on their 1800 series (39HP) and up I believe. The reason why JD doesn’t offer them is because if you have enough green to buy a JD, you likely have enough green to buy new lift arms and a center link for an upgrade. Its just more money for them. Don’t get me wrong… I still like JD’s… but little things like this are notable when comparing tractors. Thank you for the videos Folks!!! Stay Safe!!!
I would be curious to get your thoughts on eely
Lol tim how did you know I had a cat 1 landscape rake for my 5075E I use it tho because I don't see how I could hurt it for the things I do. All my other implements are cat1 and cat2
I don't know what you did in the end, but I would check the hydraulic pressure relief valve.
Typically the spec in the shop manual allows for a tolerance on the pressure of something like 10%. For example it might be 2500 psi plus or minus 250 psi. That 10% would probably be enough to get this to work especially if it's already on the low side.
Also all of the individual components are typically rated for continuous duty at a higher pressure plus there is additional safety margin even on top of that. Many people increase their pressure somewhat above the allowable spec without any issues.
With my 1025R for example, it came set to below 1800 psi and I adjusted it to 2200 psi. That resulted in a huge improvement to how much my loader could lift and how much my 3-point hitch could lift.
Yep. Right on!
I'm puzzled why one would attempt mounting a 3-bottom rollover plow onto a 60 PTO HP compact utility tractor that weighs less than 5000 lbs. This plow is designed for a tractor with twice (or more) the weight and much more hitch lift capacity. The 4075R doesn't have any more hitch lift capacity, hydraulic capacity, or physical size than the 4044R which only has 34 hp at the PTO. Growing up we used to plow with 3-bottom rollovers and never put them on anything smaller than a Deere 4020.
Spot on
Deere sure has some strange quirks. That's why I run a TYM.
Would a quick hitch solve the problem of category 1 to 2 ? are there quick hitches that would solve the size problem? In this case it would add length adding to the lifting difficulty. Back in the day the only 3pt thing I had was a couple hundred pound block of concrete with the correct size rods coming out to balance the two stage snowblower out front.
Just make sure if using a cat 1 on larger cat 2 tractor that if the tractor has sway blocks you remove them. A small frame 6R deere will hook to a cat 1 implement with just the lower blocks removed but if you raise it up without removing the uppers it will break something. Don’t ask me how I know.
Hi Tim, I’ve bought a 4044R JD just the other day. It comes with a self levelling loader. I was wondering whether I can take the brackets off, and change it to a none self levelling loader. Would you know. Cheers Jeff Australia. Ps keep up the fantastic TH-cam.
I don’t think so.
And if they wanted only 1 size - the sliding end might be cat 1 and another cat 2 and another cat 3. Get one and buy an option. That works for me.
Another thing to consider is most 2 way plows you need to have the tread width of your tractor set to a certain width so your front bottom takes the correct width cut. I doubt that tractor is wide enough. Unless it has adjustment for that but the older plows did not. I used a 110 hp tractor on a 3 bottom 2 way plow and it was about enough plow
This one has amazing adjustments. Come back for next episode on Wednesday!
@Tractor Time with Tim it's more of a Cadillac then the ones I'm familiar with. I think it's unfortunate 2 way plows never took off real good in the USA, but plowing is almost a thing of the past anymore with the exception of organic farmers.
Hi Tim !!
I was wondering the kubota equivalent to the 4 series John Deere . Also do the kubota equivalent come with the cat 1 cat 2 lift arms? The two I could think that are close are the grand L or MX.
Grand L.
My first instinct as to why there is no cat 2 hitch options for that tractor is health and safety. Isn't the main reason for category differences due to weight differences between attachments and tractors? To use a plough you will need extra front weight to balance the plough even with a cat 2 tractor. Most likely that tractor those optional hitches are meant for is probably heavier than your tractor to the point that cat 2 implements are within the tolerance range of that tractor.
Is that plow Imatch compatible. Then you don't need new arms if you already have the imatch.
No.
Can’t you use a quick hitch and forego the bushings?
Hey Tim, I'm from Belgium and I Like your channel. They are full of information and funny moments. I have a question: I have a hydraulic toplink now, but are there some action that a regular toplink is better? Or can I always use the hydraulic toplink.
You can always use hydraulic toplink. Sometimes you might wish you had more minute adjustments for consistency. But you’ll be fine.
top link might just seem shorter because its adjusted all the way down
My 4066MHD has cat 1 and 2 3 point. Bad on deere dropped capability on 4075r
Mentioned this in the video.
if the lift pin was removable in a lathe trim down surface repaint off to the races.
Get a harbor freight quick hitch which takes cat 2. Cheap and real easy plus you probably have one.
What you could do is cut and weld some new pins to the plow.
It has always bothered me a LOT that Deere doesn't include the telescoping lower 3PH links as standard on the 4 series tractors. It is an expensive option (CAT 1 only ) on 4R (M?) tractors. The CAT 1 only "choice" on the new 4075R makes no logical sense, especially since the 4M HD series has the CAT 1/2 setup as standard. Spock would not approve! 😉
Tim I have a 5065E and my 3 point is CAT2….. I also purchased a cat2 imatch from Deere. My issue now is that all my implements are cat 1… can I get long CAT2 lift pins??? My imatch is way too wide for the cat1 Implements… if so Where? Not sure what to look for. Thanks for your videos!
Get a cat1 I match. All of your problems will be solved :-). That is what I use on my 5e.
Thank you!
That’s what I had originally but didn’t think it would work with Cat2…. Surely I will need bushings.
Just bushings.
All these 4 series videos are making me want to trade in for a 4r tractor 😂
Just bought 4052 R cab love it
That’s disappointing from Deere that a tractor that size doesn’t have a cat1/2 three point hitch. They also recognize that it’s a issue since the sell the upgrade kit. The other features of that tractor are very nice though! What does that plow weigh? It has a lot of weight quite a bit behind the tractor.
Why not add a Pat’s quick hitch that converts it to cat 2? They are cheaper than the lift arms.
It’s not about horsepower, it’s about size & weight. You can get a 70ish HP tractor that is a glorified lawn mower. And you can get a 70ish HP tractor that tips the scales at 11,000lbs.
The first will have cat 1 connections, arms and lift capacity. The second will have much larger cat2 hardware and corresponding power back there.
A Implement over weights the tractor, you end up with this. Tractor over weights the implement, you easily can end up with a damaged or folded up (destroyed) implement by something as benign as a big divot or gopher hole.
Only in very limited & specific situations would this we advisable.
Also keep in mind for all you cat1 folks, getting used implements is so much easier and cheaper. Don’t be in a hurry to get into cat2 stuff. A 70hp tractor that size with cat1 means you can do just about any cat1 implement with capacity to spare. The grass isn’t always greener.
Finally…nobody who is familiar with cat2 implements would EVER look at the little JD and think, “Yeah, that needs cat2”.
My guess is Tim is about to take delivery of a much larger tractor.
Regards,
Marky
I'll start by saying I'm not trying to bash one side or the other but my 2010 Kubota L3940 has those expandable links and my buddies newer Kubota L6060 has the catagory 2 expandable links, I'm with Tim, a 75 HP tractor should have catagory 2 when your getting into 6ft and over attachments. I understand the tractor width is a consideration but as importantly to me would be the lift capabilities. Getting into attachments 1000lbs and over the larger catagory 2 seems like a no brainier. Maybe deere thinks with their rear end controller of creeping back and forward makes up for needing the expandable links I dunno, just seems for the money tractors cost today small things like expandable top link are a non factor. You said the new expandable links were almost $350 a piece, I'm sure the factory non expandable catagory 1 replacement arms aren't but $50-$75 cheaper to replace so what's the cost difference really when a tractor that size can be $60,000-$70,000 .
For what that tractor cost it should come with Cat 1/2 draft arms and hydraulic top link
this question has nothing to do with this show. i sold my 1025r i need a larger tractor 2-series witch one do u perfure its for around the small farm i need one that will lift the most [1000] lbs will do also want with backhole i dont pull a plow keep shows coming god bless
Can’t lift 1000lbs to full height with a 2 series: 3033r is the minimum. 3R’s are very nice.
I miss seeing the old Oliver plow in business
Still have it. When Maschio offered this one, we couldn’t turn it down. Never used a rollover plow before.
@@TractorTimewithTim absolutely
Did you buy the 4075R tractor!
Doesn't much matter which company, theyre sure proud of their 3 point parts, seems like.
The john deere forty sixty six h d has them
Are you gonna keep the 4R longterm? Around a 1000 bucks for parts that you only need 2 or 3 times is a little confusing...that´s why iam asking.:)
They are supposed to reimburse me for the 3 point arms.
I do not know how long I will have it. Kinda surprised I still do!
@@TractorTimewithTim ahh ok iam glad that deere will do that.:) Lets hope they forget about them(I forgot the MY24 3046R you have) and you´ll have them forever.😆
why didnt you just use a cat 2 quick hitch and bushings to adapt on to the tractor?
Plow didn’t fit quick hitch.
I guess Christy can drive the tractor while you go to each turn around and lift the plow. 😂 I know you will figure something out or maybe get a bigger tractor. I mean you cant have too much power 🤣🤣
long time viewer first time keyboard warrior. id like to take this moment in time to thank the CHEESEBURGER ASSASSIN for all the fine tractor videos and ask at least one question. i have a 2022 TYM T494 (tractor loader and tire ballast approaching 7000lbs with 48hp) i have mostly new attachments but i nabbed a hydraulic SSQA snowplow on the cheap , my question is should i drain the hydraulic fluid from the snowplow as to not introduce an unknown hydraulic fluid to my system or should i just flip the SSQA levers and giver hell???? the previous owner of the plow had it on a bobcat wheel loader (skid steer) he owns a small body shop for side work and his shop was neat and clean so he did not dig this plow out from under a pile of brush on the back 40. my guess is i will die with this TYM T494 so i want to take care of the ole girl. then again my dream tractor is a KU-BOATER L6060 anniversary edition with the burnt orange metallic paint. i know the chance of me nabbing one of these fine KU-BOATERs is slim to none so i may as well keep my T494 with virgin hydraulic fluid. ps maybe at the next tractor show you can have a cheeseburger competition? what is your secret? do you cook old school with charcoal?(if so what charcoal do you prefer?) also on the cheeseburger competition do you use a handicap system? ie you may enter as pro light heavyweight but lets face it stony ridge is a true heavyweight at 6'5'' . what is the line on this competition? i may put my money on the CHEESEBURGER ASSASSIN and take the handicap points! peace my friend, Canadarago rick over and out! (edge of cooperstown ny ,canadarago lake ny)🍔
Remember the old pennzoil commercial making fun of the guy saying ‘motor oil is motor oil!? We that is me with hydraulic fluid.
I don’t worry about it. Mix and match!
Time for the 4075R "X" ver.? LOL
I miss running our olivers. They had jaws that Open up or you can just change the balls out
Yep! They adopted this approach in Europe….still to this day! Works great!
Couldn't u use a quick hitch for a cat 1. With the oversize hookup where u half to normally use bushings
If the 4075r barely picks up the plow, I'd be surprised if it weighs enough to pull the plow as shown.
We’ll see :-)
I think I would be hooking that to Johnny 5 in the first place, but it's still intriguing enough to try. That'll be a lot of wrenching to move those shares forward. I'm just as curious to see if it can pull it. It may run out of tractive power due to the weight or lack thereof of the tractor. I think there's enough ponies though.
Seems like this is a major mistake on Deere’s part to not already have this on an R series tractor. Just re-emphasizing what you said Tim because I truly believe this is a mistake
Time for a 5R tractor.. 🤫🤔
remember you are trying to lift basically 2 plows, the tractor should lift a normal 3 furrow plow easily
What about a quick hitch
First 😁
There's nothing confusion... JD obviously made it that way for reason's shown in this video.. not enough lift capacity for cat 2
The cat3 bar on the plow looks like it will unbolt. You could have a job shop make another one with cat2 outer pins for less than the $1100.00 these parts cost. Just sayin'.
You must have skipped through the video…
As much as that tractor cost it should it
Couldn't you have just used a quick hitch that accepted cat 2?
Did your Deere dealership tell you that the ball ends of the lift arm aren't replaceable? Most can be replaced by spinning the ball to align a slot and it falls out. The balls are about 20 bucks each. No need to drill or spend a grand.
Its engineered so you can not do that so you do not break the the tractor or the implement.
Looks like the smartest thing to do would be to hook a cat 2 tractor like the 5075e to the cat 2 plow.
It's category 2 for a reason , ie lifting as well as SAFE operating.
But I understand the method of your madness , a lot of wasted MONEY 💰
LOL that's why a cat 2 implement doesn't fit on a cat 1 tractor... I was thinking why a cat 1 on a 75 hp tractor
Deere really needs to widen the cab on the 4R tractors. It's too small like a phone booth. I bleed green 100%, but I believe the company that developed the sound gaurd cab in the early 70's can do a hell of a lot better on the 4r's. Also, the yanmar engines are not the greatest in cold weather startups
I find the Yanmars start better than the Kubotas in cold weather .
Perhaps Deere doesn’t want people hooking up big implements that this little tractor can’t handle…
Pretty comical that for 80k John Deere didn’t put combination cat 1 and 2 balls in the ends of the 3 point hitch and top link. What’s even more comical is thy don’t include telescoping 3 pt arms. Things like this for the price Deere charges is why I’m more than happy with my Massey and it’s 10 year powertrain warranty, both those options would be included in the 2860M.
Also Deere has the lift capacity in that hitch at 2500 lbs 24” back. For a tractor of that horsepower offering that’s very low. 2860M is 3300 lbs for reference. Nice to have a 75hp hydro tractor but if all you gain is a little PTO horsepower and you fall short in almost every other category then what’s the point.
At first, I had this thinking…but after using it for both mowing and the upcoming plowing episode, I am thinking differently.
If you want to focus on ground engaging all the time, get a 5e. However, if you typically do loader and PTO work with only occasional ground engaging pulling applications, then this tractor is a good fit. Nice to have options.
Yea Tim I agree that the PTO HP is nice and the hydro is great for loader work, not sure what Deere offers in its 5 series machines for Transmission but for the money of that 4075R you could buy a 4700 series Massey and have a much more capable machine with the power and also the Dyna 2 transmission which makes that power shuttle completely clutches between gears and ranges and almost infinite adjustability with how quickly the transmission responds to direction changes.
🟢⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐🟢
I mean; they use Cat 1 on 20 hp sub compacts.. why would they even attempt to put that on a 75 hp tractor is beyond me..
You have enough hp but not enough tractor for a 3 bottom….. 2 bottom would be better suited for this size tractor.