I did a similar swap on my bb Mopar 400 years ago and I'm still using it. I suggest bypassing the ammeter in the dash and going with a voltmeter. The factory idea of sending all that current through the bulkhead into the ammeter wasn't the best idea. Of course the factoy alternators were only around 40 to 50 amps in those days.
Hey man you don't happen to have the part number off that GM alternator you used do you? I know there are a few variations of it, looking to swap a 318 from my late fathers wrecked '83 Dodge to a later 91 that came with EFI, so I'm going HEI and GM alternator to just dodge all the different wiring. (pun intended)
Thanks for the info, MAA. If you get a chance, what's the welded bar action? Does the GM alt weigh less or feel easier to handle/ wieldy? I just threw away a rotor/half case/double pulley that wouldn't give up the pressed on pulleys - even with a 7-ton press/puller. ( Yes. I have the correct Chrysler tool and ripped the collar off the first time, so took to shop with monster.) The pulleys just folded and ripped off (broke), leaving the core on the shaft. We heated/cooled/repeated, using cryo spray on shaft. Not happening. 80-year old technique of hot pressing pulleys on cold shafts (WW2 planes) made me consider GM's with the nut and threads to allow putting new ones back on. I don't care about looks/points on my 60s driver. And, cost is cheaper. FYI, keep in mind the higher current alts may exceed the 60s-70s regulator flat-packs. U need a higher heavy duty version. Good luck.
Most of those 'OE' style regulators will only accept a 5A max field current, normal output is around 3. There is a 10A version you can get or, like they did with the 100A Mopar alternator of the '70's, use a field relay.
@Dartgame 340 There is an electronic version of that regulator cased exactly like the mechanical one. I don't even think you can buy a mechanical one anymore (new). It's way cheaper to manufacture it as an electronic part.
I just did this on my 360 easy too do and works great thanks so much for making this video
Excellent video. I was wondering how to do this. I have a w150 needing an alternator upgrade. Thank you for your taking the time to make this video.
So you don't use the triangle bracket that comes off the water pump?
I did a similar swap on my bb Mopar 400 years ago and I'm still using it. I suggest bypassing the ammeter in the dash and going with a voltmeter. The factory idea of sending all that current through the bulkhead into the ammeter wasn't the best idea. Of course the factoy alternators were only around 40 to 50 amps in those days.
What is the part # for that particular alternator? Also, what kind of amps does it put out?
Thanks.
Hey man you don't happen to have the part number off that GM alternator you used do you? I know there are a few variations of it, looking to swap a 318 from my late fathers wrecked '83 Dodge to a later 91 that came with EFI, so I'm going HEI and GM alternator to just dodge all the different wiring. (pun intended)
Thanks for the info, MAA. If you get a chance, what's the welded bar action? Does the GM alt weigh less or feel easier to handle/ wieldy? I just threw away a rotor/half case/double pulley that wouldn't give up the pressed on pulleys - even with a 7-ton press/puller. ( Yes. I have the correct Chrysler tool and ripped the collar off the first time, so took to shop with monster.) The pulleys just folded and ripped off (broke), leaving the core on the shaft. We heated/cooled/repeated, using cryo spray on shaft. Not happening. 80-year old technique of hot pressing pulleys on cold shafts (WW2 planes) made me consider GM's with the nut and threads to allow putting new ones back on. I don't care about looks/points on my 60s driver. And, cost is cheaper. FYI, keep in mind the higher current alts may exceed the 60s-70s regulator flat-packs. U need a higher heavy duty version. Good luck.
Most of those 'OE' style regulators will only accept a 5A max field current, normal output is around 3. There is a 10A version you can get or, like they did with the 100A Mopar alternator of the '70's, use a field relay.
Heck Ya!!
Do you know what the amp output is on those gm alternators?
GM... General Mess!
Blasphemy!!!!!
Just playing
Absolutely unnecessary.
Don’t use Chevy parts on mopar
@Dartgame 340 There is an electronic version of that regulator cased exactly like the mechanical one. I don't even think you can buy a mechanical one anymore (new). It's way cheaper to manufacture it as an electronic part.