Its Alive! Following your lead(s) I got a GM ignition module (part #CBE4 Advance Auto $28) an Accel coil (part #8104 Autozone $31) and a new vacuum advance distributor (Cardone part #30-3690, Summit Racing, $84 (+$10 core)) After noting where the rotor was pointed, pulled the old ignition distributor, cleaned the surfaces and hold down bracket, dropped the new distributor in place and lightly seated it with the hold down bracket. Ran a spare two-lead plug to the new distributor's wiring harness. Pulled old coil, installed new coil, replaced the leads (+ & -) and added two wires using 14ga and ring terminals. Wired in the module exactly as you said / showed, grounded it using a 12ga wire and a thru bolt (temporary) Threw a jump box on it, shot it with a bit of starter fluid, and it fired! Immediately! Thank you for your video. It really was thorough and concise. I have a heat sink from an old CPU out of a Dell pc that I'm going to mount the module to before attaching it to the fenderwell. Thanks again.
love yur understandible instruction. I'm an old Pontiac man but I also had a Dodge Ram Charger 440 and now I own a 77 motorhome with a 440. so I'm getting back into Mopars and you now have a new subscriber because I love your videos!
7 people do not know how to follow your easy instructions apparently. I have a 76 cordoba, 44k miles, im replacing the Lean Burn with Proform and an MSD Blaster II. I was wondering about bypassing the ballast, the coil can run at 12v. Your video saved me from hooking it up direct however, so thank you! Subscribed and I will try to make some videos of the ways I am ruining my car haha. Winter 2018 project is a blow through turbo setup, I have my shoe laces crossed!!!!
@@MaverickTangent I have read and seen hundreds of articles that are saying that I need to remove it, with none of them saying how until I found yours... thanks again...
Thanks for putting the time in for this. Very good explanation and example, especially the " firewall chat" 🙂 Just a nit: go get thermal grease if u need. 'Pretty sure dielectric diff properties. I'll dbl check. Cheers! (I wished I had seen this before I replaced my fried Mopar module.)
Just to note, the GM HEI module can use a low resistance coil like .5 ohm or something close. It will not hurt it to use a higher ohm coil but the lower the resistance the bigger the spark. That is why the GM coils are .3 to .5 ohm. If you want the old coil look Pertronix makes one that is .6 ohms that works perfect.
You have a part number or model recommendation for a coil. Parts shop keeps trying to give me the grey one with the 'requires external resistor' label.
@@MazzifLOL no. If you want to get one locally, "i think" some ford coils will work. Google will help. If you want to get one from jegs or summit then they will say "internally resisted"
Look for aftermarket part numbers, like from Accel or Petrinox. They will list on their website whether its internally or externally resisted, and get one of those. Its easier than trying to decide if the coil from a 78 Ford will work etc. And they aren't that much more expensive
440 is a rb block as is the 413 and 426 which uses a different distributor than the 383 and smaller big blocks. The 400 basically replaced the 383 and is also a b block motor.
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
Great video! I had previously converted a 74 Scamp to GM HEI but used an HEI kit that used this same module with heat sink and HEI coil - but found it to be costly and time consuming to get right. This solution seems much more straightforward to me. I sold that car earlier this year and bought a 440 truck and decided not to go with the GM HEI as a result - but rather used the 4secondslfat Mopar-style electronic ignition. I wish I had seen this before doing that just due to cost. At least I was able to bypass the ballast resisto with their kit.
conradklahn that's why I made the video. the ppl on the forums have some ok "diagrams" but it doesn't help ppl if wiring doesn't come naturally. and there are some pretty big differences between pre69 and post69 mopar wiring. some of the things Mopars did with their engine bay wiring doesn't make sense....
I noticed that Dorman 14-16 ga male .157" bullet connectors fit exactly perfect into 4-5 pin mopar ECU plug. You can swap HEI module without cutting original wires. That way, if you ever want to go back, just plug back in
I did this to my Satellite step by step and it fried ignition wire to the switch so today I plan to run all new wires change voltage regulator an try again any advice would be helpful???
Hi i have a mopar small block in a 49 chevy pick up it wasnt wired up when i got it ive tried to start it but ive no spark im just using a coil ive no balast resister or ignition moduel What will i need to get it to fire
Any car with that magnetic distributor would use a Mopar ignition box as well as a ballast resistor. This is "getting rid of the Mopar ignition module". And replacing it with an equivalent GM module. Except you need a heat sink for the GM module. So you were better off with the Mopar box. Which comes with a heat sink. And a better plug. Also, why would you jumper the 5 ohm resistor on a dual ballast? That resistor supplies low voltage to the Mopar ignition modules that require it.Roughly 1972-77. But you've wired in the GM module and won't have the Mopar ignition box. Good description of the wires and the function of each one.
ballast resistor. resistor wire in a duraspark ford. cannot stress how much better your ride will run when eliminating them. Thinking of doing this to my 76 dodge sportsman. I converted 2 duraspark fords to a proform distributor but they were daily drivers. hei 4 pin modules be can be bought at any auto parts store and that is a huge bonus. Good video.
forrest stump do you have the 360 engine? I have a 79 Sportsman with crank no start I’m really needing help with , I’m not getting spark until when I go to turn the key off 😳 weird ... it cranks cranks cranks no spark I turn the key to off and I have a small orange spark, replaced the battery starter, coil and plugs, ... still same result, no spark all I did was run out of gas , towed it to the nearest gas station filled it up and it hasn’t started now in 5 months
@@lostcloud2362 I do have the 360. You should have a big fat blue spark. It could be the ballast resitor, ignition coil or ignition module. If it doesnt produce spark when cranking in start position, but will produce a small spark when returning key to run position...I would check the start circuit between ignition switch and ballast resistor. I have not had the Dodge long enough to dive into the electrical system yet. But I did replace the ballast resistor and ignition switch cuz it would crank intermittently. I replaced the ballast resistor cuz it was orange and black around the connections. May want to also check the magnetic pickup in the distributor under the cap. You will have to google specs to check as I do not know the resistance specs. Another quick test is to use a test light on the ignition coil. Probe the positive side with key on and should have power(test light on) then while cranking engine, probe negative side and test light should blink. If not, you may have a bad pickup in distributor. Those older ignition modules tho, can fail without any warning. Run fine and park truck, come back out and no start. If you have any other questions let me know. Im no expert but I always figure out my own non computer vehicles with no-start. A new proform distributor would eliminate the old dis, ballast resistor, ignition coil and module.
forrest stump everything under the hood is literally New, ... distributor, coil, ballast resistor, spark plugs, fuel pump, starter, battery, .... I’m not sure how to check the start circuit between the ignition switch and ballast resistor , I hate to sound dumb but this just isn’t my year I’m used to newer models, this is just a RV I bought 6mnths ago after a guy had the motor completely rebuilt, I have all receipts he put a ton of money into this motor and parts
It has fuel pressure I removed the line to the bottom of the carb and cranked it over it sprayed crazy when I cranked it, does that mean it’s going into the carb? We poured gas directly into the carb still the same, crank no start , I believe the issue is spark
i have a tip to check if the electronic distributor coil is working. get an analog VOM. set the meter to the lowest AC setting. put the meter wires in to the connector from the distributor. when you spin the distributor the meter will bounce, but not very much. this tells you that the distributor is working. this can be done in the engine or on the bench
This is an awesome conversion...You should a 30 amp relay to keep the 12 volts constant. 2. You should mount the GM module to a heat sink made for it, this will keep it "alive" and last don't use anything else but "grease", that came with it, to mount the GM module..die-electric grease WILL NOT work....Have fun.
How long did the hei icm last? I have a used one and don't want it to die prematurely I can wire it perfect but if my part doesn't have longevity I'll get a new one
Do a google search - there is a lot of info along with wiring diagrams to get rid of the chrysler and ford duraspark modules - including the ballast resistor / resistance wire and convert to the tidy GM HEI module. Cheers.
I just bought the Pro-Form Hei kit off Amazon $149 & the ballast resistor that came in the kit is just a single one. Do I upgrade the coil now too? 1977 dodge bb 400.
Jim Hamilton this may sound like the back of the box, but i would use the coil proform recommends with its kit. systems with ballast resisters need specific coils and there are like 40 different kinds
Maverick Tangent I asked several people on both ebay & yahoo that sell the Pro-Form Kit what coil I needed based on the ballast resistor & they all said any stock coil would work. Hhhmm, guess I'll just get the MSD 2 with their matching ballast resistor from Jegs. Thanks for the follow up.
Jim Hamilton that's why I moved away from the ballast resistor. there aren't a lot of options for hei. also, the fuel injection kit I got said that I need to move away from it to run the setup
Not that weird. The problem is how do you get a distributor to run or mount? Most 90s engines don't have a provision for one, and that's what makes it expensive.
You can mount the ignition module two aluminum plate the capacitor on the engine it's been mounted only on the positive side of the coil it keeps noise down for the radio it's not to be mounted on the negative side of the coil which is in this picture it may be a better idea to run a new wire 10 gauge 12 would be okay right to the fuse box ignition hot non fused
I've seen electronic ignition distributor with condenser mounted on the + side of the ignition coil on cars with factory tachometer. This is standard from new.
that oil filled coil will burn up i know i tried it even with the ballast resister my 1989 dodge truck will fry them it has 14.5 volts going to the + on the coil which is charging running volts
my ballast resistor is getting reaaaly hot. car wont start,just one click and then it srarts getting hot,have to hurry and disconnect batt so i dont burn my wiring.any suggestions??
I run points in my 64 Valiant and yeah, they do get hot. I just replaced mine and it was burnt in the back portion of the resistor. Probably from all the hard starting.
Gonna attempt to do this on a Australian 1978 Ford Falcon so I’ll let you know if it works. I found an ignition module that suits so in theory should work the same.
So what do you feel the upshot is with doing this ? I've owned many GM's and Mopars and have had to change all of these items more than once. This just seems to me that you are swapping one issue for another. Plus you have to make modifications and add a heat sink!!
HEI ignition modules are available at any parts store or junk yard. They usually fail from heat damage. If you have any broken computers around, try to get a small finned heatsink from one of those for the module. Make absolutely sure to use thermal grease between the module and heatsink. It gets rid of the air gaps and helps heat move faster.
The ignition module? There's no regulators in this circuit. The only regulators on old Mopar are on the firewall for the alternator field terminal, and in the dashboard for the gauges on cars that run 5v-6v gauges.
The "B" block 361/383 & 400 distributor is not compatible w/the "RB" block 413/426 and 440. Thank you for the tutorial though...it was very concise. Seems like a lot of work. have u ever tried an HEI unit. Not sure if it will work with a "Tall" 440 roller rocker - aluminum valve cover. Would appreciate any thoughts or advice. Thanks. I liked and subscribed.
Thanks buddy good to know that it's holding up so well. Maybe I'll try it after all. A lot to consider...I'm not very electrically inclined. Glad u posted this video. Think I can tackle it if I decide to go that route.
@@guidosarducci3047 those HEI kits make it easy to do. And they aren't super expensive. So if you want to go that route, especially if you're not into wiring, sometimes its worth it just to make it easier
Just a friendly comment . dont use the clear grease in the box! use a gray sink sink paste compound . you can buy a black/ yellow plastic syringe of it at BEST BUY . I did the HEI conversion on my dodge truck and kept my mopar distributor and use a 45,000 mini MSD coil . its 330 ohms or you can use a chevy Ecore coil . check put my channel
I believe all the 360s were introduced after the electronic ignition. So, no. I might be wrong, but if there was a 360 with points, it was only like 1 year.
Some comments. Most of your video is excellent information Please do not refer to the Mopar breakerless dist. as "HEI." Also, 413/426/440 do not use the same dist as a low deck I've had good luck with the stock Mopar coil and no ballast, using a GM module. The GM module varies the dwell electronically, and does not seem to hurt the coil or the module Dielectric "grease" is not the same as thermal compound. These modules are designed to use a thermal compound for heat transfer. You do NOT need to jumper both sections of a dual ballast. Incidently the ballast wiring for the Mopar ECU is done the same way for the coil either breaker points or breakerless. ON a Mopar breakerless you can actually swap in a points dist. in an emvergency, simply connecting the dist wire to the coil NEG and disconnecting the module. It will run fine Be careful screwing with all this as none of the ignition/ regulator wiring is fused, and therefore not protected I see you started this with no heat sink. That is dangerous. These modules need a heat sink Last consider using the ignition switch IGN1 output to fire a relay and use the relay to supply ignition and VR power. This keeps the VR from causeing overcharge due to voltage drop TO the VR
Lol no hei, got it. I did mount the module on a heat sink after the video. It's still running good. I sold the car to another guy this year who rebuilt the engine
so let me get this straight. sorry im having trouble understanding. ballast resistor drops voltage down to from 12v if you jump the wires and run straight to coil it gives it a constant 12v then u send the 12v from the coil to the ignition module which will reduce the 12v to the distributor. obviously ground is fed to the coil and distributor from the module. Here is where im confused how does the voltage drop down at the coil isnt it bad for the coil to run at a constant 12v?
It depends on the coil. There are coils that can run 12v. It's just that points ignitions need them to drop lower so they don't burn the points out. Typically the coil would get 12v when cranking, bypassing the ballast resistor, and then in the run position, the coil would get less than 12v out of the ballast resistor to run the car. So, there are 2 feeds to the + side of the coil, one 12v straight from the cranking position so the car can start, called switched start, and one line from the ignition run which passes through the ballast resistor before going to the coil. With the right coil, internally resisted, you don't have to drop to 8v, it will do it inside the coil. So, I changed from the factory mopar coil that didn't have internal resistance, to one that does
@@Jessemartinez94 let me know how it goes. Its not to hard, you just have to follow the wiring back from the coil. On 69 and old, I believe they go to the voltage regulator. Don't remember about the 70 and newer style
I seen it work even though I really don't know what is what without being there. I am a touch and feel guy and makes it hard for people to give me instructions. I believe I could from what I watched fake my way through and that was not what your doing which is teach, I'm the moron who can't get to the gas station on the other side of the road/LOL
Just keep the Chrysler electronic ignition. This GM Hei setup doesn't hold a candle to it. Ironically he kept the cup style cap. The HEI style caps are better because bigger wires can be ran.
as we enter a new solar cycle , the likelihood of coronal mass ejections are greatly increased . you may want to keep one non electronic ride in the stable
The GM Module is a very common swap. People that would rather stick to OEM style points and condensers will be the ones sitting on the side of the road while this GM conversion is pretty much rock solid. Its your car don't let the MOPAR Purists get to you.
@@MaverickTangent Mopar and Ford guys do this conversion all the time. Mopar guys to do away with ballast resistors and ford guys do it to get rid of the duraspark. Both have high failure rates.
This is a very good swap. I've had it on my '65 Chrysler for about two years without any issue. The underhood wiring was an unsafe mess of wire nuts and frayed wires. It starts very good and runs very well. I will only use a Mopar engine and trans in an old Mopar, but anything outside of that is fair game. That includes anything to make the car more driveable/reliable and usable. I actually drive my old stuff a bit .......and notice that lots of these purist comments come from people that never drive or do anything with their ride.
Had 2 failures of the hei on my 340. They were instantaneous failures. Troubleshooting the second failure today. Had Ran a points oem system for 125,000 miles on a 318. One failure on the road. Repaired in 5 minutes. Each has benefits and minuses. Points do require periodic maintenance. I could tell when they were getting worn out by how the engine behaved. Solid state ignition tends to just instantaneous fail. I keep a spare module in the car.
@@DR440 Totally agree. My ride is not #s matching, anyway, and reliability was never key back then. My '66 300 is a daily driver and I don't mind showing under the hood when I want to - not on the side of the road when I don't. [When we had VW Bugs, we carried a lady's file and an extra condenser to keep the points clean.]
All the module does is electronically switch the pulse coming from the reluctor or points to give a digital on off and max dwell ( charge) time for precision firing of the coil.
Mopar still sells the wiring harness kit for there kit part number P3690152AB for the Orange Electronic Control Unit P4120505. You can order these through your local Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Fiat dealer. Why use GM junk? Also, the 351-400 Chrysler engines are "B" blocks, the 413-440 are "RB" blocks. The RB blocks use a distributor that is a 1/4 inch longer than the B block distributor that is also a 1/4 inch longer than the 273-360 "LA" engines. They do not interchange between engine block codes! Here is an article showing the wiring diagram of both a single and dual field ballast resistor www.earlycuda.org/tech/ElectronicIgnition.htm way easier to do than all this stuff you just did for a GM HEI crap. Chrysler's electronic ignition and electronic voltage regulator premiered on the 1968 Imperial Lebaron 4-door hardtop all divisions and engines had electronic ignition by 1971, and electronic voltage regulators by 1970. GM did not release there's until 1974. GM's HEI fails all the time, Chrysler electronic ignition never fails!
@@andrewarmstrong7310 Get rid of ballast resistor. You can't do that with a mopar kit. You need it for their HEI. And I wanted to make sure I can use parts that stores stock, not some weird Petrinox kit that takes a week to order. Its run great for 2 years.
The ballast resister acts like a voltage regulator. Eliminate it at your own risk. There is NO horsepower in ignition, unless you've got skyhigh compression or any alky motor. Tearing out the Lean Burn will gain you nothing but hundreds of wasted bucks. Most lean burn issues are carb, distributor, or timing chain issues.
okay all mopar dis caps all fit even hemi each other.dont do what he doing.that balest you need.go with the alternater just buy the kit from mopar dont do what this guy doing this you will burn her down dont do this
Its probably hei. There should be a window on the cap if it has points. You can USUALLY lift the cap up a little and set it back down without issue to see if it has points
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.202 | ตั้ม วราวุธ / เบสท์ คำสิงห์ | 18 ก.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cwIoA7XHqnE/mqdefault.jpg)
Its Alive! Following your lead(s) I got a GM ignition module (part #CBE4 Advance Auto $28) an Accel coil (part #8104 Autozone $31) and a new vacuum advance distributor (Cardone part #30-3690, Summit Racing, $84 (+$10 core)) After noting where the rotor was pointed, pulled the old ignition distributor, cleaned the surfaces and hold down bracket, dropped the new distributor in place and lightly seated it with the hold down bracket. Ran a spare two-lead plug to the new distributor's wiring harness. Pulled old coil, installed new coil, replaced the leads (+ & -) and added two wires using 14ga and ring terminals. Wired in the module exactly as you said / showed, grounded it using a 12ga wire and a thru bolt (temporary) Threw a jump box on it, shot it with a bit of starter fluid, and it fired! Immediately!
Thank you for your video. It really was thorough and concise. I have a heat sink from an old CPU out of a Dell pc that I'm going to mount the module to before attaching it to the fenderwell. Thanks again.
Coming back to my reply from 2 yrs ago, the engine is still running strong and I've not had to adjust or tune it at all....
Maverick I own a 68 Satellite 383, it's been in the family for years. I've owned several mopars since the seventies. subscriber.
love yur understandible instruction. I'm an old Pontiac man but I also had a Dodge Ram Charger 440 and now I own a 77 motorhome with a 440. so I'm getting back into Mopars and you now have a new subscriber because I love your videos!
I got a few more videos with the Fury coming in the next month! Thanks!
7 people do not know how to follow your easy instructions apparently. I have a 76 cordoba, 44k miles, im replacing the Lean Burn with Proform and an MSD Blaster II. I was wondering about bypassing the ballast, the coil can run at 12v. Your video saved me from hooking it up direct however, so thank you! Subscribed and I will try to make some videos of the ways I am ruining my car haha. Winter 2018 project is a blow through turbo setup, I have my shoe laces crossed!!!!
Thank you so much, I have been trying to figure out the ballast resistor for forever and a day...
No prob, dude!
@@MaverickTangent
I have read and seen hundreds of articles that are saying that I need to remove it, with none of them saying how until I found yours... thanks again...
Thanks for putting the time in for this. Very good explanation and example, especially the " firewall chat" 🙂 Just a nit: go get thermal grease if u need. 'Pretty sure dielectric diff properties. I'll dbl check. Cheers! (I wished I had seen this before I replaced my fried Mopar module.)
Just to note, the GM HEI module can use a low resistance coil like .5 ohm or something close. It will not hurt it to use a higher ohm coil but the lower the resistance the bigger the spark. That is why the GM coils are .3 to .5 ohm. If you want the old coil look Pertronix makes one that is .6 ohms that works perfect.
Had an 84 with Chrysler Lean Burn. The Spark Control Computer died and this video help me get back my ride. Thanks!
I had a 76 New Yorker with 400 Lean Burn. First year for it. Lol awesome! That's why I made it!
You have a part number or model recommendation for a coil. Parts shop keeps trying to give me the grey one with the 'requires external resistor' label.
@@MazzifLOL no. If you want to get one locally, "i think" some ford coils will work. Google will help. If you want to get one from jegs or summit then they will say "internally resisted"
I'm running an internal resisted accel coil that was just on the shelf at the part store. See what part numbers are on the shelf and look them up
Good video I agree with you about the scarcity of mopar stuff like this….thanks for posting.
Great video and well explained and filmed
Thanks, dude! I appreciate it.
Man .. this is awesome ! Really like this tips ! Will do the same install on my 69 Charger and D100 and get rid of the junk mopar ECU !
Elliot Sporgitas thanks dude. Let me know!
Just one question; how to be sure that the coil as an internaly resistance ? Any products to suggest ?
Look for aftermarket part numbers, like from Accel or Petrinox. They will list on their website whether its internally or externally resisted, and get one of those. Its easier than trying to decide if the coil from a 78 Ford will work etc. And they aren't that much more expensive
440 is a rb block as is the 413 and 426 which uses a different distributor than the 383 and smaller big blocks. The 400 basically replaced the 383 and is also a b block motor.
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
Great video! I had previously converted a 74 Scamp to GM HEI but used an HEI kit that used this same module with heat sink and HEI coil - but found it to be costly and time consuming to get right. This solution seems much more straightforward to me. I sold that car earlier this year and bought a 440 truck and decided not to go with the GM HEI as a result - but rather used the 4secondslfat Mopar-style electronic ignition. I wish I had seen this before doing that just due to cost. At least I was able to bypass the ballast resisto with their kit.
conradklahn that's why I made the video. the ppl on the forums have some ok "diagrams" but it doesn't help ppl if wiring doesn't come naturally. and there are some pretty big differences between pre69 and post69 mopar wiring. some of the things Mopars did with their engine bay wiring doesn't make sense....
Good work and video
I've seen gm ignition modules go bad more than ballast resistors.
I noticed that Dorman 14-16 ga male .157" bullet connectors fit exactly perfect into 4-5 pin mopar ECU plug. You can swap HEI module without cutting original wires. That way, if you ever want to go back, just plug back in
I did this to my Satellite step by step and it fried ignition wire to the switch so today I plan to run all new wires change voltage regulator an try again any advice would be helpful???
Hi i have a mopar small block in a 49 chevy pick up it wasnt wired up when i got it ive tried to start it but ive no spark im just using a coil ive no balast resister or ignition moduel What will i need to get it to fire
What is the name of the coil you used
Is there any way to contact you
Any car with that magnetic distributor would use a Mopar ignition box as well as a ballast resistor. This is "getting rid of the Mopar ignition module". And replacing it with an equivalent GM module. Except you need a heat sink for the GM module. So you were better off with the Mopar box. Which comes with a heat sink. And a better plug. Also, why would you jumper the 5 ohm resistor on a dual ballast? That resistor supplies low voltage to the Mopar ignition modules that require it.Roughly 1972-77. But you've wired in the GM module and won't have the Mopar ignition box.
Good description of the wires and the function of each one.
ballast resistor. resistor wire in a duraspark ford. cannot stress how much better your ride will run when eliminating them. Thinking of doing this to my 76 dodge sportsman. I converted 2 duraspark fords to a proform distributor but they were daily drivers. hei 4 pin modules be can be bought at any auto parts store and that is a huge bonus. Good video.
I agree! She runs great! Thanks, dude!
forrest stump do you have the 360 engine? I have a 79 Sportsman with crank no start I’m really needing help with , I’m not getting spark until when I go to turn the key off 😳 weird ... it cranks cranks cranks no spark I turn the key to off and I have a small orange spark, replaced the battery starter, coil and plugs, ... still same result, no spark all I did was run out of gas , towed it to the nearest gas station filled it up and it hasn’t started now in 5 months
@@lostcloud2362 I do have the 360. You should have a big fat blue spark. It could be the ballast resitor, ignition coil or ignition module. If it doesnt produce spark when cranking in start position, but will produce a small spark when returning key to run position...I would check the start circuit between ignition switch and ballast resistor. I have not had the Dodge long enough to dive into the electrical system yet. But I did replace the ballast resistor and ignition switch cuz it would crank intermittently. I replaced the ballast resistor cuz it was orange and black around the connections. May want to also check the magnetic pickup in the distributor under the cap. You will have to google specs to check as I do not know the resistance specs. Another quick test is to use a test light on the ignition coil. Probe the positive side with key on and should have power(test light on) then while cranking engine, probe negative side and test light should blink. If not, you may have a bad pickup in distributor. Those older ignition modules tho, can fail without any warning. Run fine and park truck, come back out and no start. If you have any other questions let me know. Im no expert but I always figure out my own non computer vehicles with no-start. A new proform distributor would eliminate the old dis, ballast resistor, ignition coil and module.
forrest stump everything under the hood is literally New, ... distributor, coil, ballast resistor, spark plugs, fuel pump, starter, battery, .... I’m not sure how to check the start circuit between the ignition switch and ballast resistor , I hate to sound dumb but this just isn’t my year I’m used to newer models, this is just a RV I bought 6mnths ago after a guy had the motor completely rebuilt, I have all receipts he put a ton of money into this motor and parts
It has fuel pressure I removed the line to the bottom of the carb and cranked it over it sprayed crazy when I cranked it, does that mean it’s going into the carb? We poured gas directly into the carb still the same, crank no start , I believe the issue is spark
i have a tip to check if the electronic distributor coil is working. get an analog VOM. set the meter to the lowest AC setting. put the meter wires in to the connector from the distributor. when you spin the distributor the meter will bounce, but not very much. this tells you that the distributor is working. this can be done in the engine or on the bench
150 ohms resistance is the measurement. For the selector coil.
This is an awesome conversion...You should a 30 amp relay to keep the 12 volts constant. 2. You should mount the GM module to a heat sink made for it, this will keep it "alive" and last don't use anything else but "grease", that came with it, to mount the GM module..die-electric grease WILL NOT work....Have fun.
Yep, that thermal grease is important to take heat away from the module. The chips inside generate plenty of it.
@@charlesgunzelman3323 im guessing Artic Silver 5 might work. After all, no substance on Earth conducts heat or light better than Silver.
Ditto: thermal grease
What vehicle did you get the ignition module from?
Matthew Green like a 77 Chevy 350 truck. Anything V8 GM '76 and later should use the same module
I have a couple questions regarding the module and rough running conditions
It never ran rough. it ran fine. What's up with the module?
How long did the hei icm last? I have a used one and don't want it to die prematurely I can wire it perfect but if my part doesn't have longevity I'll get a new one
It was a gm module? It lasted for over 3 years, I sold the car, so I don't know it's fate as of today
Thanks I have the same icm and now I gonna do all of this with confidence thank you for replying on Such an old video
Does this work for a 1978 Dodge Van with a 440 4barrel thermoquad carburator can I get rid of the ballast resistor ? thanks for the information
Maybe. It would be a ton of work
Do a google search - there is a lot of info along with wiring diagrams to get rid of the chrysler and ford duraspark modules - including the ballast resistor / resistance wire and convert to the tidy GM HEI module. Cheers.
I just bought the Pro-Form Hei kit off Amazon $149 & the ballast resistor that came in the kit is just a single one. Do I upgrade the coil now too? 1977 dodge bb 400.
Jim Hamilton this may sound like the back of the box, but i would use the coil proform recommends with its kit. systems with ballast resisters need specific coils and there are like 40 different kinds
Maverick Tangent
I asked several people on both ebay & yahoo that sell the Pro-Form Kit what coil I needed based on the ballast resistor & they all said any stock coil would work. Hhhmm, guess I'll just get the MSD 2 with their matching ballast resistor from Jegs. Thanks for the follow up.
Jim Hamilton that's why I moved away from the ballast resistor. there aren't a lot of options for hei. also, the fuel injection kit I got said that I need to move away from it to run the setup
This might be a weird question but do you think it would be possible to retro fit a 90's modle dodge with points and carb??
Not that weird. The problem is how do you get a distributor to run or mount? Most 90s engines don't have a provision for one, and that's what makes it expensive.
@@MaverickTangent , my 98 ram runs a hei distributor and fuel injection that's why I asked
You can mount the ignition module two aluminum plate the capacitor on the engine it's been mounted only on the positive side of the coil it keeps noise down for the radio it's not to be mounted on the negative side of the coil which is in this picture it may be a better idea to run a new wire 10 gauge 12 would be okay right to the fuse box ignition hot non fused
I've seen electronic ignition distributor with condenser mounted on the + side of the ignition coil on cars with factory tachometer. This is standard from new.
that oil filled coil will burn up i know i tried it even with the ballast resister my 1989 dodge truck will fry them it has 14.5 volts going to the + on the coil which is charging running volts
my ballast resistor is getting reaaaly hot. car wont start,just one click and then it srarts getting hot,have to hurry and disconnect batt so i dont burn my wiring.any suggestions??
by the way its a 65 coronet with a 400 bb
Ryan David well I pulled my ballast resistor off so I don't know anything about them. they are supposed to get hot, they are a resistor
I run points in my 64 Valiant and yeah, they do get hot. I just replaced mine and it was burnt in the back portion of the resistor. Probably from all the hard starting.
Gonna attempt to do this on a Australian 1978 Ford Falcon so I’ll let you know if it works. I found an ignition module that suits so in theory should work the same.
Yep. As long as you can fire the module, the car doesn't know what's making the spark, just that its there.
So what do you feel the upshot is with doing this ? I've owned many GM's and Mopars and have had to change all of these items more than once. This just seems to me that you are swapping one issue for another. Plus you have to make modifications and add a heat sink!!
Its just simple and reliable. And its HEI so it can fire the fuel injection.
HEI ignition modules are available at any parts store or junk yard. They usually fail from heat damage. If you have any broken computers around, try to get a small finned heatsink from one of those for the module. Make absolutely sure to use thermal grease between the module and heatsink. It gets rid of the air gaps and helps heat move faster.
Good ❤
You can use a Ford or Chrysler electronic regulator for older alternators the Chrysler electronic regulator is a good unit
The ignition module? There's no regulators in this circuit. The only regulators on old Mopar are on the firewall for the alternator field terminal, and in the dashboard for the gauges on cars that run 5v-6v gauges.
The "B" block 361/383 & 400 distributor is not compatible w/the "RB" block 413/426 and 440. Thank you for the tutorial though...it was very concise. Seems like a lot of work. have u ever tried an HEI unit. Not sure if it will work with a "Tall" 440 roller rocker - aluminum valve cover. Would appreciate any thoughts or advice. Thanks. I liked and subscribed.
No, I haven't tried an HEI. Ive been running this setup for 3 years and it has been working working great
Thanks buddy good to know that it's holding up so well. Maybe I'll try it after all. A lot to consider...I'm not very electrically inclined. Glad u posted this video. Think I can tackle it if I decide to go that route.
@@guidosarducci3047 those HEI kits make it easy to do. And they aren't super expensive. So if you want to go that route, especially if you're not into wiring, sometimes its worth it just to make it easier
Just a friendly comment . dont use the clear grease in the box! use a gray sink sink paste compound . you can buy a black/ yellow plastic syringe of it at BEST BUY . I did the HEI conversion on my dodge truck and kept my mopar distributor and use a 45,000 mini MSD coil . its 330 ohms or you can use a chevy Ecore coil . check put my channel
What did the GM ignition module come out of? Part #?
1977 chevy 1/2 ton 350. They are literally all the same from 76-86
and i looked through your uploads and didnt see the other ignition videos. my email: wm.mcewen@gmail.com
@@MaverickTangent I was just reading through prior comments and saw your other reply. Thanks!
And for clarification I have a 84 d150 with a slant 6 and the lean burn ignition system has lean burned out lol.
I have a new vacuum advance distributor coming tomorrow, going to run fetch the module and have everything ready to wire up as soon as it arrives.
You said "you.wouldnt have a 360 with points"... ??? Honest question did they not make a 360 w points igniton?
I believe all the 360s were introduced after the electronic ignition. So, no. I might be wrong, but if there was a 360 with points, it was only like 1 year.
360 was introduced in 1971 and had points ignition.
Some comments. Most of your video is excellent information
Please do not refer to the Mopar breakerless dist. as "HEI." Also, 413/426/440 do not use the same dist as a low deck
I've had good luck with the stock Mopar coil and no ballast, using a GM module. The GM module varies the dwell electronically, and does not seem to hurt the coil or the module
Dielectric "grease" is not the same as thermal compound. These modules are designed to use a thermal compound for heat transfer.
You do NOT need to jumper both sections of a dual ballast. Incidently the ballast wiring for the Mopar ECU is done the same way for the coil either breaker points or breakerless. ON a Mopar breakerless you can actually swap in a points dist. in an emvergency, simply connecting the dist wire to the coil NEG and disconnecting the module. It will run fine
Be careful screwing with all this as none of the ignition/ regulator wiring is fused, and therefore not protected
I see you started this with no heat sink. That is dangerous. These modules need a heat sink
Last consider using the ignition switch IGN1 output to fire a relay and use the relay to supply ignition and VR power. This keeps the VR from causeing overcharge due to voltage drop TO the VR
Lol no hei, got it. I did mount the module on a heat sink after the video. It's still running good. I sold the car to another guy this year who rebuilt the engine
so let me get this straight. sorry im having trouble understanding. ballast resistor drops voltage down to from 12v if you jump the wires and run straight to coil it gives it a constant 12v then u send the 12v from the coil to the ignition module which will reduce the 12v to the distributor. obviously ground is fed to the coil and distributor from the module. Here is where im confused how does the voltage drop down at the coil isnt it bad for the coil to run at a constant 12v?
maybe i need to understand how the ignition coil works a bit better. sorry just trying to figure this out as i go.
It depends on the coil. There are coils that can run 12v. It's just that points ignitions need them to drop lower so they don't burn the points out. Typically the coil would get 12v when cranking, bypassing the ballast resistor, and then in the run position, the coil would get less than 12v out of the ballast resistor to run the car. So, there are 2 feeds to the + side of the coil, one 12v straight from the cranking position so the car can start, called switched start, and one line from the ignition run which passes through the ballast resistor before going to the coil. With the right coil, internally resisted, you don't have to drop to 8v, it will do it inside the coil. So, I changed from the factory mopar coil that didn't have internal resistance, to one that does
@@MaverickTangent ahh i see. Thank you for that. I took a trip to napa and got me one of those internally resisted ones.
@@Jessemartinez94 let me know how it goes. Its not to hard, you just have to follow the wiring back from the coil. On 69 and old, I believe they go to the voltage regulator. Don't remember about the 70 and newer style
whats the name of the color on that car or color code
I believe we determined it was Y6 Citron Gold. There were 2 golds
@@MaverickTangent i have a 1970 fury convertible fy4 citron mist metalic , beautiful colors
@@jimgee2676 awesome. I want to get another C Body. Not a vert, but a coupe
I seen it work even though I really don't know what is what without being there. I am a touch and feel guy and makes it hard for people to give me instructions. I believe I could from what I watched fake my way through and that was not what your doing which is teach, I'm the moron who can't get to the gas station on the other side of the road/LOL
Great video but I just wanna toss out there im building a 73 360 and it in fact has points
Maybe. Sometimes the transition isn't super defined. Thanks, dude!
Just keep the Chrysler electronic ignition. This GM Hei setup doesn't hold a candle to it. Ironically he kept the cup style cap. The HEI style caps are better because bigger wires can be ran.
as we enter a new solar cycle , the likelihood of coronal mass ejections are greatly increased .
you may want to keep one non electronic ride in the stable
The GM Module is a very common swap. People that would rather stick to OEM style points and condensers will be the ones sitting on the side of the road while this GM conversion is pretty much rock solid. Its your car don't let the MOPAR Purists get to you.
Its been on there 2 years without issue! Thanks dude!
@@MaverickTangent Mopar and Ford guys do this conversion all the time. Mopar guys to do away with ballast resistors and ford guys do it to get rid of the duraspark. Both have high failure rates.
This is a very good swap. I've had it on my '65 Chrysler for about two years without any issue. The underhood wiring was an unsafe mess of wire nuts and frayed wires. It starts very good and runs very well. I will only use a Mopar engine and trans in an old Mopar, but anything outside of that is fair game. That includes anything to make the car more driveable/reliable and usable.
I actually drive my old stuff a bit .......and notice that lots of these purist comments come from people that never drive or do anything with their ride.
Had 2 failures of the hei on my 340. They were instantaneous failures. Troubleshooting the second failure today. Had Ran a points oem system for 125,000 miles on a 318. One failure on the road. Repaired in 5 minutes. Each has benefits and minuses.
Points do require periodic maintenance. I could tell when they were getting worn out by how the engine behaved. Solid state ignition tends to just instantaneous fail. I keep a spare module in the car.
@@DR440 Totally agree. My ride is not #s matching, anyway, and reliability was never key back then. My '66 300 is a daily driver and I don't mind showing under the hood when I want to - not on the side of the road when I don't. [When we had VW Bugs, we carried a lady's file and an extra condenser to keep the points clean.]
people that can, do.
those who cannot do, teach.
Its still running fine
I have a 360 with points.
Next one I get will be a 440. Unless it's just too nice to pass up
My 360la has points
trolls live under the bridge, they love to comment about nothing. good job, don't pay them any mind.
andy jacks ha ha true story. I have to ignore most comments cuz ppl are mean and they make me cry. ;)
You lost me at putting a GM ignition module in a Mopar.
No joke.
All the module does is electronically switch the pulse coming from the reluctor or points to give a digital on off and max dwell ( charge) time for precision firing of the coil.
Get ya a eBay or Amazon dodge HEI... much better setup
Mopar still sells the wiring harness kit for there kit part number P3690152AB for the Orange Electronic Control Unit P4120505. You can order these through your local Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Fiat dealer. Why use GM junk? Also, the 351-400 Chrysler engines are "B" blocks, the 413-440 are "RB" blocks. The RB blocks use a distributor that is a 1/4 inch longer than the B block distributor that is also a 1/4 inch longer than the 273-360 "LA" engines. They do not interchange between engine block codes! Here is an article showing the wiring diagram of both a single and dual field ballast resistor www.earlycuda.org/tech/ElectronicIgnition.htm way easier to do than all this stuff you just did for a GM HEI crap. Chrysler's electronic ignition and electronic voltage regulator premiered on the 1968 Imperial Lebaron 4-door hardtop all divisions and engines had electronic ignition by 1971, and electronic voltage regulators by 1970. GM did not release there's until 1974. GM's HEI fails all the time, Chrysler electronic ignition never fails!
Good thing you read the title of the video.
I did.
@@andrewarmstrong7310 Get rid of ballast resistor. You can't do that with a mopar kit. You need it for their HEI. And I wanted to make sure I can use parts that stores stock, not some weird Petrinox kit that takes a week to order. Its run great for 2 years.
Mine has run fine for the last 30 years I have no intention of getting rid of it to use GM junk in my Plymouth.
@@andrewarmstrong7310 I needed HEI for the fuel injection install.
The ballast resister acts like a voltage regulator. Eliminate it at your own risk.
There is NO horsepower in ignition, unless you've got skyhigh compression or any alky motor. Tearing out the Lean Burn will gain you nothing but hundreds of wasted bucks. Most lean burn issues are carb, distributor, or timing chain issues.
It's run fine for 3 years. I had to do it for fuel injection
okay all mopar dis caps all fit even hemi each other.dont do what he doing.that balest you need.go with the alternater just buy the kit from mopar dont do what this guy doing this you will burn her down dont do this
I have a 1976 dodge d200 with the 360. Is that a points distributor or hei
Its probably hei. There should be a window on the cap if it has points. You can USUALLY lift the cap up a little and set it back down without issue to see if it has points
Awesome thanks for the info