Here is what you'll need: XL/XLT Kit: ebay.us/exUXPf GP/GPR kit: ebay.us/3vs0Ut The best caulk gun you'll ever use: amzn.to/3zmxAVv Black 5200: amzn.to/3EvhYD7 Black RTV: amzn.to/2VUMViq These links may be affiliate links, which earn me a small commission if you choose to purchase from them.
This worked perfectly. Bought a 2002 1200 xlt two months ago and it runs perfectly, just wouldn't get traction. On acceleration, just would redline/12000rpm until you feather it up to speed, then ran fine. I put this kit in it and it changed everything! Comes up and out of the water at will now. Awesome jet ski for 20 years old! Great video. Thank you!
They are not much fun with even a tiny bit of air getting into the pump, that guy wrenching acceleration is incredible, and the 1200pv hits hard when the powervalves open up, great fun machines. I've got one here I need to rebuild, I'm hopefully going to get to that this winter along with a mess of other skis that need serious attention lol
Those power valve engines put out some good horsepower, but they break way too often. I used to own a GP 800R and had 3 separate catastrophic engine failers.
So happy I found your video! I've been having cavitation trouble on my XLT800 that seems to have been getting slightly worse over the years. I use to be able to pull up a skier fairly easily, but now it just sort of 'spins out' when taking off from a dead start. Mid speed and full speed still work fine. Definitely worth trying this first, I was going to replace my impeller.
I'd try this for sure. I've seen this be the cause of cavitation FAR more often on the Yamaha machines, If nothing else, it certainly won't hurt, and is likely less expensive than trying a new impeller first!
Great job and another super informative video, thanks. Do you recommend the use of anti-seize or loctite blue on any of those bolts? I figured that anti-seize may be good on some of those blind threads especially if you ride in salt water. Although your bolts seem to be easily removable.
Anti size certainly wouldn't hurt, as you said especially for salt water, and being blind nuts held in by fiberglass, stainless loves to gall threads. I believe a lot of this stuff is specified to have blue loctite, but I have never seen one come loose, and have seen a great deal get siezed on, so I don't use loctite on them personally, I also haven't used anti sieze, but I'm on a freshwater lake so we don't have much corrosion here
Love your videos! Been scouring forums and cant seem to find an answer to this - what about the cavities in the intake grate? Seems to make sense to seal those too but none of the kits come with plugs for intake grates. Did you fill yours with anything? Appreciate it! 2000 XL800
Thanks for the video, much appreciated. Is it only necessary to take care of the cavitation issue on the intake side ?? I noticed you only worked on the intake.
Yes, the cavitation is caused by air getting into the intake side of the pump. Once the pump is filled with a good solid stream of water there won't be cavitation unless the prop is damaged or such, and any leaks on the outlet side, nozzle and such will just leak water, won't cause cavitation, just won't contribute to thrust. I'd say leaks there are pretty rare unless there is a mismatch in some parts or something.
Thanks alot, my xl1200 struggle to move much when I first take it on the water, after 20 min it get better, but cavitation happens at low revs and struggles to get past 25km/h once it picks up speed it goes like a rocket. Yea it didnt make sense that the impeller needed replacement as it is able to go very fast, but that was going to be my first step. Lucky I watched your video. ! Thanks alot I hope it solves the issue
That does sound a lot like the type of problems this would solve. Changing as it warms up is a odd one, could be sticky powervalve or carb isn't quite spot on, or maybe the seals swell up a hair and it doesn't cavitate as badly. I've seen some weird stuff. If it feels like a slipping clutch, where the engine revs up but you don't really go, its cavitation, usually you can ease off the throttle and feather it a bit and get it through that patch and it gets up on plane A-OK, but will act like that any time you try to accelerate. If it doesn't rev up, just bogs or acts like it has no power then it may be a different issue. You should be aware, or become aware of the PV, cat converter, and oil line issues on that engine, they can cause some catastrophic problems if they aren't addressed. A lot of these machines have been fixed by now, but now and then one rolls in here that has never been touched.
The engine runs fine, I have a d plate, the carbs I did the the Bill Oside recipe for the carbs and premix the fuel, so should be good with that. Yes I can feather it and get it past that slippery clutch feel. Definitely no issue w the engine ( I believe. Do you have any experience w the aftermarket intake grates ?? Much difference?
So yeah that's definitely cavitation. You've covered the bases for the big problem causers mechanically. I don't have a ton of experience with aftermarket grates, especially on Yamahas, but the scoop style solas grates tend to load the pump at low speeds dramatically better, you should still do the pump shoe seals like this video, but a grate would get you even better jump out of the hole, but you'd be sacrificing a few miles per hour up top from the extra drag. Personally I love the feeling of acceleration so hard it feels like it could throw you off more than blistering top speed. Not often the water is smooth enough to sustain full speed for any length of time.
00 xl800 it don’t take off right out of the hole like it should, it felt like a clutch slipping or seaweed in it, but it would run great mid and top end. DO U THINK THIS WILL FIX THE PROBLEM?
I would absolutely do this. Any time I have had a 1200pv or 800pv that cavitates (clutch slipping feeling) doing a pump shoe seal kit has completely solved it.
So the XL800 would take this kit: ebay.us/exUXPf and here is a link to the 3M 5200 I used to seal everything in: amzn.to/3EvhYD7 as well as The best caulk gun you'll ever use: amzn.to/3zmxAVv and some RTV for the intake grate that you may want to remove later: amzn.to/2VUMViq That is absolutely everything you'll need, you may be able to source the 5200, caulk gun and RTV somewhere locally for less money too BTW
I noticed you didn't loctite the shoe and grate bolts on re-install. Is it needed? I am hesitant as I snapped one of the grate bolts on removal (was able to remove it with heat).
I've done these pump shoe kits several times, and never re-applied new loctite, there has always been plenty that was dried on the bolts where I have never had fear that they would work loose. I know that's not really how loctite is meant to work, but I have never re-applied, and never will unless for some reason it seems like one isn't holding well or something.
I've actually got a 02 XLT1200 (PV Motor) that is blown up that I plan on doing a video series of repairing eventually, I'm not sure if the cat is what killed it, or if it was an oiling line. Both should be addressed, cat needs to go, d-plate and chip, there is no other solution to that problem, all the cats degrade, fall apart, and get lodged in the exhaust which causes all kinds of problems, and the oiling lines are susceptible to sliding off as they were zip tied at the factory, and as they age and harden, they just slip off the nipples on the carbs or pump. Oetiker clamps and new hoses are the only solution aside from deleting the entire oiling system and going premix. Both are essential for life of a PV engine. And conveniently to do the oil lines/premix conversion, the exhaust has to be removed, which is what has to happen to get rid of the cat.
@@trythistv can you just run premix and leave it alone? I got skis used... Gp800r and a 1200xld or t. I wasn't sure if it had a cat or not. Both pv motors. But I look fwd to info. I'm going to yank my plates on the 1200 and use window weld urethane and diy some rubber in the voids.
@@CodyJv They would have both come with a cat from the factory. There is a wire on the exhaust, if that is plugged in, then it still has a cat. If they still have the cats, you're on borrowed time, most of them have disintegrated and destroyed the engines by now. You can switch to premix and then ignore the oiling system stuff, but that will not help the cat situation at all, it might actually make it worse as you could have extra oil that could plug the cat up quicker. Some urethane and bits of rubber should work a-ok for void filling on the pump shoe.
Think mine are low hours. My gp800r dash is non working. Can I see hours on a 1200 dash? How hard is the cat to remove or "hollow." I vary throttle like crazy on lake most of the time. Still burning gas from 2020. Surprisingly
@@CodyJv It is very simple once you remove the exhaust from the hull, that is 100% the worst part. from there you remove the bolts, remove the cat, put the "D-Plate" in its place, reinstall the exhaust into the hull, and plug the "chip" into where the temperature sensor on the exhaust was plugged into. There is some way to see the hours, I'm not entirely sure what button sequence it is, but I feel like you can switch from hours to battery voltage or something by pressing and holding a button, or that may be some other yamaha dash I'm thinking of.
How is the clearance between your impeller and wear ring? Yamahas have a stainless wear ring so they usually don't need replacement as often as the plastic rings on seadoos but they can get damaged, or pump bearings can get loose and wear down the impeller
Yes, It will indeed fit the XL800, You'll want the XL/XLT kit (ebay.us/exUXPf) The earlier non-pv skis used a different rideplate/pump shoe/intake duct, or whatever you want to call it. From somewhere around 99 the XL1200LTD, SUV and other models started using the PV motors they updated the pump design and this kit will work.
@trythistv I have a question. I have a 01 yamaha waverunner xl800 and I don't think it shoots the water as high as it should from the pee hole and it blows the exhaust hose off
@@sergiocontreras8930 so the water flag that comes out the back is weak or the telltale out the side of the ski is weak? If the 800 is a pv motor it may also have the catalytic converter that is known for breaking and clogging the exhaust. If you find that there has been a cat failure you'll need to locate the broken chunk of ceramic stuff, and install a "d plate and chip"
My memory fails me. I cannot remember, I know these kits are specified for the skis with engines that have powervalves, but I seem to remember putting a seal kit on a xl760 or something that was not a pv motor but it has been at least a couple years ago. I will have to look back and see what kit I used or if my memory is altogether wrong.
does it sound like its running smooth? Revving up like a slipping clutch? you could have something stuck in the jet pump, a little rope, a stick, weeds or something can cause some weird cavitation or it may need these void fillers and sealing done. If its not running smooth, the first thing I always do is change the spark plugs, that gives you a great opportunity to see if they are burning good or if there is fear of one of the oil lines having failed (th-cam.com/video/5qpokTPiNoY/w-d-xo.html) Past that, let me know more of what its doing and we'll go from there.
@@trythistv I stopped using it and now I changed the spark plug and it doesn't start, could you tell me if it's normal for it to leak water where the spark plug goes without a spark plug and I turn it on, it leaks water at low pressure, the Jetski is 2-stroke, it's normal
@@user-rr5pl4mg3f If I'm thinking correctly, there are o-rings under the waterjacket cover and cylinder head, if you've got water leaking around the plugs, its those o-rings. I must ask you if you are trying to start the machine out of the water, if so are you turning the water on before the engine is running?
Hey. Just bought an xl 800. Runs great. Will move good until it gets to about 5000 rpm, and then it sounds like there's no water being pushed through, and I don't move hardly anywhere. Haven't been able to get it out of the whole. Impeller looks fine. Instead of buying the seal kit, I just tried sealing the shoe plate with silicone, and it didn't fix it. Will filling the holes and sealing it make that much of a difference compared to just sealing it like I did?
Filling the voids has always made a dramatic difference on the ones I've done, I think some of the exhaust gases end up finding their way down into those cavities and it causes the cavitation.
@trythistv alright. So if I fill the voids and I don't get any improvement, what should I check next? Like I said, the impeller looks fine compared to others I've seen, not saying that that is not my issue, but it's hard to believe that it's causing this dramatic of an issue.
You could, it would take a lot, I'd say probably around 4 tubes worth because of the big cavities at the back, and you'd need to let each side dry so it didn't all run out when you flip it to a different side, or tape it in or something until it sets up good
Masking tape could leave a line or ridge in the sealer that would catch water and peel it off. I've had far better success smoothing it out by hand so there are no hard edges. Sure it doesn't look as nice, but working for more than a couple rides is more important to me and my customers than looking good.
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Here is what you'll need:
XL/XLT Kit: ebay.us/exUXPf
GP/GPR kit: ebay.us/3vs0Ut
The best caulk gun you'll ever use: amzn.to/3zmxAVv
Black 5200: amzn.to/3EvhYD7
Black RTV: amzn.to/2VUMViq
These links may be affiliate links, which earn me a small commission if you choose to purchase from them.
This worked perfectly. Bought a 2002 1200 xlt two months ago and it runs perfectly, just wouldn't get traction. On acceleration, just would redline/12000rpm until you feather it up to speed, then ran fine. I put this kit in it and it changed everything! Comes up and out of the water at will now. Awesome jet ski for 20 years old! Great video. Thank you!
They are not much fun with even a tiny bit of air getting into the pump, that guy wrenching acceleration is incredible, and the 1200pv hits hard when the powervalves open up, great fun machines. I've got one here I need to rebuild, I'm hopefully going to get to that this winter along with a mess of other skis that need serious attention lol
Absolutely great video man. Great explanation and video quality.👍
Thank you! Makes a world of difference in how a ski runs!
this was amazing this fixed my problem 100%!!! I have a 2000 yamaha suv
Glad it helped you out! Made a world of difference on every machine I've done it to.
I cant wait to do this, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!!
It'll make a big difference!
Great video, wasn't aware of this problem yet. Have to do this on my new to me machine.
It has made a huge difference on every machine I've done it to!
Those power valve engines put out some good horsepower, but they break way too often. I used to own a GP 800R and had 3 separate catastrophic engine failers.
So happy I found your video! I've been having cavitation trouble on my XLT800 that seems to have been getting slightly worse over the years. I use to be able to pull up a skier fairly easily, but now it just sort of 'spins out' when taking off from a dead start. Mid speed and full speed still work fine. Definitely worth trying this first, I was going to replace my impeller.
I'd try this for sure. I've seen this be the cause of cavitation FAR more often on the Yamaha machines, If nothing else, it certainly won't hurt, and is likely less expensive than trying a new impeller first!
great video! I bought this kit a year ago and never installed it. I'll be getting this done in the next few weeks! thank you
It makes a huge difference if you've got any cavitation.
How is it?
Thanks so much for sharing. Awesome
Glad it was useful for you!
Great job and another super informative video, thanks. Do you recommend the use of anti-seize or loctite blue on any of those bolts? I figured that anti-seize may be good on some of those blind threads especially if you ride in salt water. Although your bolts seem to be easily removable.
Anti size certainly wouldn't hurt, as you said especially for salt water, and being blind nuts held in by fiberglass, stainless loves to gall threads. I believe a lot of this stuff is specified to have blue loctite, but I have never seen one come loose, and have seen a great deal get siezed on, so I don't use loctite on them personally, I also haven't used anti sieze, but I'm on a freshwater lake so we don't have much corrosion here
Love your videos! Been scouring forums and cant seem to find an answer to this - what about the cavities in the intake grate? Seems to make sense to seal those too but none of the kits come with plugs for intake grates. Did you fill yours with anything? Appreciate it! 2000 XL800
Thanks for the video, much appreciated. Is it only necessary to take care of the cavitation issue on the intake side ?? I noticed you only worked on the intake.
Yes, the cavitation is caused by air getting into the intake side of the pump. Once the pump is filled with a good solid stream of water there won't be cavitation unless the prop is damaged or such, and any leaks on the outlet side, nozzle and such will just leak water, won't cause cavitation, just won't contribute to thrust. I'd say leaks there are pretty rare unless there is a mismatch in some parts or something.
Thanks alot, my xl1200 struggle to move much when I first take it on the water, after 20 min it get better, but cavitation happens at low revs and struggles to get past 25km/h once it picks up speed it goes like a rocket. Yea it didnt make sense that the impeller needed replacement as it is able to go very fast, but that was going to be my first step. Lucky I watched your video. ! Thanks alot I hope it solves the issue
That does sound a lot like the type of problems this would solve. Changing as it warms up is a odd one, could be sticky powervalve or carb isn't quite spot on, or maybe the seals swell up a hair and it doesn't cavitate as badly. I've seen some weird stuff.
If it feels like a slipping clutch, where the engine revs up but you don't really go, its cavitation, usually you can ease off the throttle and feather it a bit and get it through that patch and it gets up on plane A-OK, but will act like that any time you try to accelerate.
If it doesn't rev up, just bogs or acts like it has no power then it may be a different issue.
You should be aware, or become aware of the PV, cat converter, and oil line issues on that engine, they can cause some catastrophic problems if they aren't addressed. A lot of these machines have been fixed by now, but now and then one rolls in here that has never been touched.
The engine runs fine, I have a d plate, the carbs I did the the Bill Oside recipe for the carbs and premix the fuel, so should be good with that. Yes I can feather it and get it past that slippery clutch feel. Definitely no issue w the engine ( I believe. Do you have any experience w the aftermarket intake grates ?? Much difference?
So yeah that's definitely cavitation. You've covered the bases for the big problem causers mechanically. I don't have a ton of experience with aftermarket grates, especially on Yamahas, but the scoop style solas grates tend to load the pump at low speeds dramatically better, you should still do the pump shoe seals like this video, but a grate would get you even better jump out of the hole, but you'd be sacrificing a few miles per hour up top from the extra drag. Personally I love the feeling of acceleration so hard it feels like it could throw you off more than blistering top speed. Not often the water is smooth enough to sustain full speed for any length of time.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤
00 xl800 it don’t take off right out of the hole like it should, it felt like a clutch slipping or seaweed in it, but it would run great mid and top end. DO U THINK THIS WILL FIX THE PROBLEM?
I would absolutely do this. Any time I have had a 1200pv or 800pv that cavitates (clutch slipping feeling) doing a pump shoe seal kit has completely solved it.
@@trythistv great! Where can Do u buy ur kit? Can u please put the website here. Thank you
So the XL800 would take this kit: ebay.us/exUXPf
and here is a link to the 3M 5200 I used to seal everything in: amzn.to/3EvhYD7
as well as The best caulk gun you'll ever use: amzn.to/3zmxAVv
and some RTV for the intake grate that you may want to remove later: amzn.to/2VUMViq
That is absolutely everything you'll need, you may be able to source the 5200, caulk gun and RTV somewhere locally for less money too BTW
I noticed you didn't loctite the shoe and grate bolts on re-install. Is it needed? I am hesitant as I snapped one of the grate bolts on removal (was able to remove it with heat).
I've done these pump shoe kits several times, and never re-applied new loctite, there has always been plenty that was dried on the bolts where I have never had fear that they would work loose.
I know that's not really how loctite is meant to work, but I have never re-applied, and never will unless for some reason it seems like one isn't holding well or something.
Can you talk about pv cat converter issues. Mine is a 98 or 01 1200xlt model. Going to use urthane window sealer in these pockets as a cheap fix.
I've actually got a 02 XLT1200 (PV Motor) that is blown up that I plan on doing a video series of repairing eventually, I'm not sure if the cat is what killed it, or if it was an oiling line.
Both should be addressed, cat needs to go, d-plate and chip, there is no other solution to that problem, all the cats degrade, fall apart, and get lodged in the exhaust which causes all kinds of problems, and the oiling lines are susceptible to sliding off as they were zip tied at the factory, and as they age and harden, they just slip off the nipples on the carbs or pump.
Oetiker clamps and new hoses are the only solution aside from deleting the entire oiling system and going premix. Both are essential for life of a PV engine. And conveniently to do the oil lines/premix conversion, the exhaust has to be removed, which is what has to happen to get rid of the cat.
@@trythistv can you just run premix and leave it alone? I got skis used... Gp800r and a 1200xld or t. I wasn't sure if it had a cat or not. Both pv motors. But I look fwd to info. I'm going to yank my plates on the 1200 and use window weld urethane and diy some rubber in the voids.
@@CodyJv They would have both come with a cat from the factory. There is a wire on the exhaust, if that is plugged in, then it still has a cat.
If they still have the cats, you're on borrowed time, most of them have disintegrated and destroyed the engines by now.
You can switch to premix and then ignore the oiling system stuff, but that will not help the cat situation at all, it might actually make it worse as you could have extra oil that could plug the cat up quicker.
Some urethane and bits of rubber should work a-ok for void filling on the pump shoe.
Think mine are low hours. My gp800r dash is non working. Can I see hours on a 1200 dash? How hard is the cat to remove or "hollow." I vary throttle like crazy on lake most of the time. Still burning gas from 2020. Surprisingly
@@CodyJv It is very simple once you remove the exhaust from the hull, that is 100% the worst part. from there you remove the bolts, remove the cat, put the "D-Plate" in its place, reinstall the exhaust into the hull, and plug the "chip" into where the temperature sensor on the exhaust was plugged into.
There is some way to see the hours, I'm not entirely sure what button sequence it is, but I feel like you can switch from hours to battery voltage or something by pressing and holding a button, or that may be some other yamaha dash I'm thinking of.
Put this kit in and it didn't help. Any other ideas? 2000 800XL
How is the clearance between your impeller and wear ring? Yamahas have a stainless wear ring so they usually don't need replacement as often as the plastic rings on seadoos but they can get damaged, or pump bearings can get loose and wear down the impeller
Buon lavoro, peccato quel silicone Nero in fase di rimontaggio.
Would this kit fit a 2001 yamaha waverunner xl800??? Or just the xlt what's the difference on this two
Yes, It will indeed fit the XL800, You'll want the XL/XLT kit (ebay.us/exUXPf) The earlier non-pv skis used a different rideplate/pump shoe/intake duct, or whatever you want to call it. From somewhere around 99 the XL1200LTD, SUV and other models started using the PV motors they updated the pump design and this kit will work.
@trythistv I have a question. I have a 01 yamaha waverunner xl800 and I don't think it shoots the water as high as it should from the pee hole and it blows the exhaust hose off
@@sergiocontreras8930 so the water flag that comes out the back is weak or the telltale out the side of the ski is weak? If the 800 is a pv motor it may also have the catalytic converter that is known for breaking and clogging the exhaust. If you find that there has been a cat failure you'll need to locate the broken chunk of ceramic stuff, and install a "d plate and chip"
@trythistv no the 800s doesn't have cat converter so I mean it does runs great but the tall tall seems weak
Will this work for 1999 “regular” gp1200? Not the R
My memory fails me. I cannot remember, I know these kits are specified for the skis with engines that have powervalves, but I seem to remember putting a seal kit on a xl760 or something that was not a pv motor but it has been at least a couple years ago. I will have to look back and see what kit I used or if my memory is altogether wrong.
@@trythistv ok thank you!
hello, could someone help me, I bought a yamaha xl800 before it ran up to 60mph now it doesn't go over 30mph what could it be thanks
does it sound like its running smooth? Revving up like a slipping clutch? you could have something stuck in the jet pump, a little rope, a stick, weeds or something can cause some weird cavitation or it may need these void fillers and sealing done.
If its not running smooth, the first thing I always do is change the spark plugs, that gives you a great opportunity to see if they are burning good or if there is fear of one of the oil lines having failed (th-cam.com/video/5qpokTPiNoY/w-d-xo.html)
Past that, let me know more of what its doing and we'll go from there.
@@trythistv I stopped using it and now I changed the spark plug and it doesn't start, could you tell me if it's normal for it to leak water where the spark plug goes without a spark plug and I turn it on, it leaks water at low pressure, the Jetski is 2-stroke, it's normal
@@user-rr5pl4mg3f If I'm thinking correctly, there are o-rings under the waterjacket cover and cylinder head, if you've got water leaking around the plugs, its those o-rings.
I must ask you if you are trying to start the machine out of the water, if so are you turning the water on before the engine is running?
Thank you very much it worked for me, good video. Now I have one last question why is my Jetski only going at 30 mph?
Hey. Just bought an xl 800. Runs great. Will move good until it gets to about 5000 rpm, and then it sounds like there's no water being pushed through, and I don't move hardly anywhere. Haven't been able to get it out of the whole. Impeller looks fine. Instead of buying the seal kit, I just tried sealing the shoe plate with silicone, and it didn't fix it. Will filling the holes and sealing it make that much of a difference compared to just sealing it like I did?
Filling the voids has always made a dramatic difference on the ones I've done, I think some of the exhaust gases end up finding their way down into those cavities and it causes the cavitation.
@trythistv alright. So if I fill the voids and I don't get any improvement, what should I check next? Like I said, the impeller looks fine compared to others I've seen, not saying that that is not my issue, but it's hard to believe that it's causing this dramatic of an issue.
@@braedenstan2954 How is the gap between the impeller and the housing?
@trythistv I have pictures... not sure how to send pictures through TH-cam
From what I saw there wasn't a huge gap or anything. Not sure what the maximum gap is supposed to be.
Could I just fill these spaces with silicone ???
You could, it would take a lot, I'd say probably around 4 tubes worth because of the big cavities at the back, and you'd need to let each side dry so it didn't all run out when you flip it to a different side, or tape it in or something until it sets up good
Thanks what about the small area as you look up at the wear ring
Travail de cochon, tu n aurais pas pu mettre du scoth papier avant afin de lisser ton joint correctement
Masking tape could leave a line or ridge in the sealer that would catch water and peel it off. I've had far better success smoothing it out by hand so there are no hard edges. Sure it doesn't look as nice, but working for more than a couple rides is more important to me and my customers than looking good.