⚙See the Items in video below! 💬Join the Discord: discord.gg/RUJbAj8QPB (comment if link broken) 🤜🤛Wanna do us the ultimate bro/bro'ette move? Send this video to a tacoma buddy! 🚨 Finally on IG! : @teamoildrop Items in this video: (Amazon affiliate links) Drain Hose - amzn.to/3RAjjzF Coolant - amzn.to/3GUEckn Funnel Set - amzn.to/3GXksg0 10 Qt Measuring Bucket - amzn.to/48xrvYe 3/8" Drive Socket Set - amzn.to/41yyGNP Socket Accessory Set - amzn.to/3tsMRYb 3/8" Torque Wrench - amzn.to/41Bd7Mp (These are Amazon affiliate links: Amazon pays the channel a small fee everytime you fine people buy through these links) ⚙Channel Shop - team-oil-drop-shop.fourthwall.com/ Found this vid helpful? Give us a like 👍 and sub! Much more to come!
Team Oil Drop - I hope all is well with you! Do you have a video of doing a whole coolant job, replacing thermostat etc? If not, I would love to send you some product if you would be interested.
I am not doing my own work on my 2022 Tacoma SR5. Got a little older(73) so I prefer to pay a technician to do these things, besides I live in an apartment complex. I did most of the work on my 2008 SR5 Tacoma. I just paid a local auto repair shop for a coolant drain and refill. I brought my own Toyota Long life coolant(2 gallons). The technician only used 1 gallon of the coolant. I questioned him about that. Did you drain the block? He said that there was not a block drain. Toyota did not put those in. I thought that was a little suspicious so I searched for a video that explained the procedure. That's how I found your video. Excellent job on the video! I went out and identified the drain plug on the passenger side of the engine. I am now a subscriber. Thank you!
Y’all do a great job on getting to the point and being 100 informative while being as close to the owners manual as possible. Great videos too, love the edits and music
What a wonderful library of videos you’ve created. In under 40 minutes of watching an owner has everything they need to keep their truck running like new. Here’s a few suggestions for down the road. Throttle body clean MAF clean Brake cleaning, front Front break replacement Rear brake replacement PCV replacement Brake bleed and fluid replacement Power steering fluid replacement Water pump/thermostat replacement Starter replacement Center bearing support, driveshaft
I really appreciate it. Big plans in the near future. In fact, one super length video in the next week or so might be the single most valuable video for Tacoma owners. And great list!
I spent all day looking for how to do this, and I am one of your subscribers lol. I should have checked with you first. Even the Car Care Nut doesn't show how to do this. Thanks again for the detail!!
@@JP3.14I think its absolutely necessary to use at least pink/red coolant, anything that says toyota, lexus, scion, or like asian vehicle - pink/red, basically anything that says pink/red, asian vehicle, something like that. There is an actual reason for this and its because the pink coolant is formulated for aluminum radiators and cooling systems and whatnot (which toyota and lexus have been using since around the very early 80’s), however, with that said. 1. No it does not HAVE to be Toyota SLLC, it can be any pink or red/ asian vehicle coolant or anything along those lines 2. Using a coolant other than pink/red, aka coolant thats $5 for a gallon vs $20, is not going to harm your vehicle in the short term of things, but long terms a different story. Not really worth it to save $30 initially then having to replace your entire radiator later on. In general, coolant is coolant and as long as you are at least keeping the truck cool, ho for it, I just wouldn’t keep it in there more than 10-15k miles if you use something other than pink/red/asian. Sorry for writing so much, I usually do that when I explain things like this, don’t really like receiving indirect answers so, naturally, I just write long, detailed answers with reasons why I believe that.
@@JP3.14you can go ahead and disregard this, I’m just leaving a far shorter reply for others Yes, pink coolant is necessary, no, it does not have to be Toyota SLLC, just anything pink/red/asian. The reason for this is because pink/red is formulated to protect aluminum radiators which are found in Toyota vehicles. You can use a different color of coolant, but you need to drain it out and flush it with water and a radiator flush/degreaser within 10k miles of using the different color coolant.
Thanks for another great video. Based on your videos I did both differentials and transfer case a couple days ago....piece of cake. Your old coolant looked pretty clean!
I’ve taken a pic of my empty reservoir! I’ll hold onto it for when yal need it for the giveaway. Also, GREAT tip on the knobs for the skid plate. I got those & installed them using some thick plastic washers instead of stacked metal washers, helps out the worry of losing washers.
Just did this on my 2018 SR5. This is a very helpful video. However, quick lesson learned. When it comes to your overflow reservoir and you've kept it up to the full line. The "cup from your favorite local barbecue" had better be 24 oz. Mine was only 16 oz and it overflowed causing my only spillage. Small point, but good to know.
@@jamesmiller384 great tip. Rudy’s BBQ had me covered with that 32oz. That spillage is easily forgiven, but yeah, I pride myself on a job where I don’t spill a drop. And that’s not all that common 😆
Such a simple and straightforward channel. I can not tell you how appreciative I am about the no fluff, right to the point information. Any chance there's a throttle body servicing video in the pipeline? Your spark plug vid already saved me about $500 instead of going to the dealership. Worth the cost of knuckle busting if you ask me.
Thanks for the video, it really helped me a lot! So For me it worked best with a 5/16" (8mm) Inlet Diameter clear tube, it was much more snug and tight without no leakage at all, instead of the 3/8" tube which I tried first and it was leaking coolant. I bought it at a hardware store, it was cut to length i decided to get 5 feet long. In case someone else is in the same boat as me..
Thanks dude! appreciate the help! I like how everything was filmed and straight to the point! Subscribed! Also, do I have to drain the engine block? I dont have that many extenders. I will go buy some if I have too though
Thanks man! Always appreciate the words. You don’t have to drain the block, just know you’ll only be getting about 30% out at a time from the rad therefore you’ll be doing it a 3 or so times to get a good flush. Completely okay and some would argue safer to go this route as there are those who fear breaking the drain on the block.
Another awesome video. What size tubing, ID, are you using to drain the radiator? I’m assuming the same tubing is used for draining the engine block? Question- might it be easier to do this earlier, say at 30k miles, and just drain the radiator and overflow reservoir? This way you are investing new coolant more often, approximately 1 gallon, and sidestepping the need to open up that engine block plug. This would be similar to performing a tranny drain and refill every 15k miles to introduce some clean fluid to mix with the older fluid.
You know… it’s the same tube I just pop off my bottle pump, thus justifying the residual tranny fluid in it in the first scene. As long as the interior diameter is 9mm you’re gonna be good! As for the more frequent mini flushes. I’m all for it, but wouldn’t do it myself simply because the block drain is hidden but by no means hard to access (as long as you have extensions) and you’ll still have to burp anyway. I would never knock someone for draining 30% more frequent then 70%, kind’ve a tomato tomato user preference deal I’d say
Do you squeeze the driver side radiator hose with the engine running? I thought it would be dangerous sticking your hand in there with the belts going.
Hello Sir. Roy, from Yuma, Arizona. I was wondering if the engine block drain is really all that necessary when changing the coolant in my 2019 Tacoma. The last vehicle I ever worked on, regularly, was a 1979 CJ-7 straight six. Usually, once per year, I would drain all the fluid out, grab some cheap coolant and non-tap water, then a six pack and hall ass all day long. Probably don't want to do that today. Your thought? Much appreciated.
Draining the block isn't completely necessary. But, do keep in mind, you won't get all the old coolant out. I do believe I have done that once to twice back in the day. Certainly not recommended now. Thanks for the comments and the question, appreciate ya Greg the Editor
Thank you so much for this awesome video. I repeated most of the steps successfully except I can’t seem to get the thermostat to open (lower hose is not as hot as the top one). The outside temperature is 72 and I tried to rev it between 2-2.5k rpm for tens of minutes. The engine temperature is always stable in the middle of the range. How long does it take for the thermostat to open? Is there a way to check the temperature and the status of the thermostat?
The only accurate way of checking the coolant temp would be through an OBD2 or code reader that allows for live data. However if your truck is showing the temp in the middle range of the gauge you are good to go. The radiator is also doing its job properly if the lower hose is cooler than the top hose. Nothing to worry about here! -Austin
You don't have to drain the block. You could just drain the 3 qts from the radiator and do the rest of the process. However, your new coolant will mix with your old coolant and you'll only be about 30% fresher. You could do this multiple times similar to a transmission drain and fill. Burp every time!
There actually isn’t a ton of great information out there on the 2GR-FKS and if there’s a block drain on the drivers side or not. From what I deduced, there isn’t one. But also we are just following Toyotas procedure in the factory service manual and they do not mention a block drain on the drivers side. We’re just trying to get a majority of the fluid out, just a drain and fill not a full flush. www.tacomaworld.com/posts/21315411 -Austin
Great video. Thanks. The dealership wanted $220 to change coolant. My only concern with doing this work was, the 10mm bolt for the block drain was very tight. I was concerned that the bolt was going to break.
You will just end up a touch low on coolant in the overflow reservoir, as that is where it will pull from if there is an air pocket in the system. Nothing serious to worry about, we just advise keeping an eye on your overflow reservoir over the next few weeks to ensure that the level is correct as marked on the side of that bottle. -Austin
@@dragonblade71ify very similar process but different quantities. This process is very similar on most modern vehicles. However, not all will have a block drain in the same spot or even available. I believe your 2.7 drain is tucked back there in a similar spot.
I have a question,If the coolant is drained from the block without removing thermostat how could you fill coolant back in the block with coolant before starting the engine? Do you not damage the engine to run the engine without coolant in it?
Use an spill proof funnel no harm will happen unless your engine is hot already.Coolant will start to circulate already until it reaches operating temprature
Keep in mind that coolant will flow into the engine block from the lower radiator hosed past the water pump. The engine block will be mostly full. The Editor
@@teamoildrop I know it’s late reply, I thought the coolant flows via thermostat into the engine block then back to the radiator. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I like to do this job every 50-60k and I usually go one step further than just a drain and fill, I usually put water and a flush, like blue devil, and then open the thermostat and get it to flush through the whole system.
Im actually in the process as of right now… my block drain was different than yours so I had to get under the truck and reach up and around to crack it loose, coolant was like, maroon red in mine.. pretty sure its a good thing I changed it when I did
Just replaced the coolant today in my 2.7l taco. Definitely wouldn't have had the courage to do it without this video, so thanks! I was worried, however, when the reservoir didn't fill itself like it did for you. I ended up filling it halfway after letting it cool and before taking it for a drive. No problems with overheating by the way, but would you happen to have any thoughts about the reservoir not filling itself? The only thing I can think that might have made a difference is that I used a real burp funnel which seals better to the radiator
That certainly could have contributed to it not bleeding off to the overflow tank. Either way as long as you have coolant between the lines (hot or cold depending) on the overflow tank you should be good to go! Any air bubbles will work themselves out as the coolant cycles temp and reflect that in the overflow tank, so just check on it for the next week or so to make sure the level stays within the safe range! -Austin
So i just have a question for you .i work at a dealership and have access to a coolant flush machine is the coolant flauh machine better than doing this ? Or is this a flush vs drain and fill ?
While sporting the same engine, I don’t want to say without experience the the cooling system is IDENTICAL. It likely is, but please do your own research. As for basic procedure of a coolant drain and fill, these steps are practically universal.
Thanks, I have a 2011 and just hit 100k. I did make a big mistake I was low on coolant and used green stuff then stared to have boil overs! Kept putting in more green only to learn the two font mix. Had to flush using distilled water 2X then put in “Asian Red”. It was a mess.
Maybe a dumb question but I purchased 4 of the coolant pink oem toyota .I have a trd pro manual 3.5 with towing package it states 11 does that sound about correct .
These videos have been super helpful. Question, should I stick with OEM fluids from Toyota? I’m planning on doing a trans, coolant and transfer case fluid swap but OEM is pricey.
I followed your video to a T. After about a week later, my radiator is under pressure when cold. First thing in the morning, after the truck has sat all night in 40-degree weather, I've taken the cap off with the engine off, and air sizzles out as you take the cap off. The fluid isn't really low. it's up to the top. What could be the issue? It's a 2021 trd. Maybe just some more air in there causing pressure when cold? Overlfow is at the correct fill line. Advice?
Air pockets would seem like the typical culprit. Any issues prior to the fluid exchange? It might be worth performing the coolant air burp process over again and making sure the thermostat is fully open. -Austin
Does it really matter if it's toyota Brand Coolant? I noticed you use toyota brand as much as possible with all your fluids, but is it actually any different or better?
@@jamesstepsidechevy the honest truth is while Toyota does not manufacture there own fluids, they do have them made to their exact specs. Plenty of people run other name brands just fine, I stick to Toyota just for the peace of mind. You’ll be fine straying from the Toyota brand.
My reservoir did not filled when filling radiator, am I doing something wrong ? Anyways. Everything is at regular temp. I followed everything you did. Thank you so much.
@@kevinromero3990 not unusual, just fill the res to the line and keep some coolant on you for a few days as you monitor. Make sure you burped the bubbles out and you’re good!
@@4lbertoZ4val4 even though your engine bay layout is different; the same basic principles and steps apply. The block drain plug should also be identically placed. Your radiator is likely a different size.
@4lbertoZ4val4 the 2GR-FKS doesn’t get a bleeder valve, but yes the location on the engine is the same for the block drain. However the engine is rotated 90 degrees so it is on the backside of the engine near the firewall. I could not find a video of a 2019 Highlander but I did find this one on the Lexus RX which is the same layout. th-cam.com/video/bwsqjZ3GiBw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kLXHnFkaX1VmdAGk -Austin
Very helpful, but you do know that you could put that cap back on and avoid spilling all that while purging, right? That's the point of the overflow tank
Great point! There's several different ways of trying to burp out the air and you can definitely leave the cap on and let them pop out into the overflow tank. -Austin
Your truck (hopefully) is not leaking coolant therefore it shouldn’t have room to add more unless you drain some. You could just do a radiator drain and add the amount you drained in the end.
Hey I'm noticing a ton of overflow and splashing going on? I've always been super careful to not get this stuff on things but if you aren't sweating it,what am I missing? Hosing down after or ???
I have a 2017 taco trd OR. It's only got 30k miles on it, and I take care of it very well. I found an issue recently after noticing cold air blowing from heat, and I saw the temp gauge go above halfway. What I found was, coolant level in the reservoir at the "low" line, and nothing visible in the radiator when I removed the cap. The truck is mostly parked in my driveway, and there's no signs of leak, on the ground or any in obvious in the coolant lines/radiator. Any insight or help would be great. I've ordered a replacement radiator cap and thermostat in case. Also, I've been adding coolant as I drive. It seems to get sucked down in the reservoir Thanks I advance. Merry Christmas/ happy holidays.
Hmm that's for sure an interesting one. I'd make sure you check over the entire engine bay and make sure you don't have any crusty pink/white residue anywhere as that is what our coolant looks like when it dries up after a leak. Other than the obvious things, I can't really pinpoint what would be causing you to loose coolant. How does the oil look during an oil change? Any signs of coolant in the oil? I'd just make sure your coolant is full to the appropriate mark and check for leaks, perform an oil change so you can see if there's any coolant in there and sort of go from there. It's obviously disappearing somewhere as the cooling system is a closed loop, we just need to figure out where. -Austin
@teamoildrop I'll definitely check again for dry stains of coolant, but yeah, I haven't seen non thus far. The oil is clean and clear, smells, and feels like oil (only). I'm due for an oil change soon, so I'll keep an eye out for anything different.
Yes, the idling and burping procedure is what bleeds the air out of the system. It isn’t a full coolant flush, just a drain and fill, gets about 2/3 of the old coolant out. -Austin
5 years or 50k miles. Over time the coolant becomes more and more acidic and will eventually start to corrode components within the cooling system, this should help prevent that! -Austin
If you drain the radiator and the block, you will need to bleed the coolant system. Once the system is bled, the expansion tank will act as the reservoir to ensure the system is full. Greg the Editor
@@teamoildrop That would be awesome! I just did my 30k flush, at 50k and now my pedal is a little spongey on the first push, then firm on the 2nd push. Apparently there is a fairly complicated procedure that requires a scanner while bleeding to allow abs to also purge air.....ugh! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS! THEY ARE VERY HELPFUL!!
Isn't coolant flow to the heater core always in-line? None of the vehicles I've owned controlled coolant flow to the heater core. The controls moved a damper to direct or stop air flow across the heater core.
This is a coolant fluid drain and fill, not a full coolant flush. In order to get the 10-11qts out, you’d likely need to pump it through the block/heater core to get it all out. Changing out ~70% of the fluid is good enough to get any of the acidity/contaminants that we’re worried about out of the system! -Austin
@@teamoildrop do you happen to have a coolant flush video I thought this was the same thing. Did it now at 60k since I just bought the truck my first Tacoma so I’m still learning. Will probably do the flush at 100k. Awesome content btw it really helped me. I’m following your videos since I’m doing all the fluids/oils since I don’t trust the dealership did them even though they said they did
We don't have a flush video. Flushes are typically done at a mechanic shop with a machine that has an external pump and is pumping fluid through the cooling system. So not exactly DIY friendly since you need a special machine. For DIY, drain and fill is more than good enough. -Austin
OK so I 100% will not return to any social media nonsense EXCEPT i am going to join TOD discord...for obvious reasons as well as its not really social media like the others and I always seem to need someone's help when doing any maintenance on my 2016 that I've owned for year 2 now. As I begin to do my coolant I'm stifled and have a question. When turning the 10mm on the engine block drain,the actual drain stem is turning with the nut...I'm assuming it's NOT supposed to? HELP and I'll see yall on discord soon enuf✌️
Usually the coolants were never designed to be used together, so we just recommend sticking with the OEM fluid since some mixing will always occur when doing a coolant fluid exchange. -Austin
😂 ahh mman you dont turn on the heater, your turn the dial of tour heater to maximum heat but you dont turn it on meaning the fan it actually takes long to heat like this! Tou also need the speacial funnel that helps burp the system , once the engine fans kicks on you know your good for the butp the system
Attention to detail is key. You have a point, the temp is indeed maxed, however, the fan being on won't increase the engine's warm up length by any major amount of time. Yes, you can buy a $40 special funnel.....or you can mod one you already have. Great additions/suggestions, Thanks Greg the Editor
⚙See the Items in video below!
💬Join the Discord: discord.gg/RUJbAj8QPB (comment if link broken)
🤜🤛Wanna do us the ultimate bro/bro'ette move? Send this video to a tacoma buddy!
🚨 Finally on IG! : @teamoildrop
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Drain Hose - amzn.to/3RAjjzF
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Found this vid helpful? Give us a like 👍 and sub! Much more to come!
Team Oil Drop - I hope all is well with you! Do you have a video of doing a whole coolant job, replacing thermostat etc? If not, I would love to send you some product if you would be interested.
@@rileyescalle4173 hey brother! Shoot me an email at teamoildrop gmail com
If I were a betting man, I'd put money on this channel having tens of thousands of subscribers very soon. Great content!
Maybe one day! until then stayin humble and maintained! Thanks for the words - Tyler
1 yr update… getting closer!!
1 yr and 1 month update. We did it my brother, we have ascended
I am not doing my own work on my 2022 Tacoma SR5. Got a little older(73) so I prefer to pay a technician to do these things, besides I live in an apartment complex. I did most of the work on my 2008 SR5 Tacoma. I just paid a local auto repair shop for a coolant drain and refill. I brought my own Toyota Long life coolant(2 gallons). The technician only used 1 gallon of the coolant. I questioned him about that. Did you drain the block? He said that there was not a block drain. Toyota did not put those in. I thought that was a little suspicious so I searched for a video that explained the procedure. That's how I found your video. Excellent job on the video! I went out and identified the drain plug on the passenger side of the engine. I am now a subscriber. Thank you!
@@shinerlightman hmmm, well it’s definitely freshened up at least then! And thanks for the words. Welcome to the team 😎 🍻
Do you have a link for the clamp screws?
@ if you hop over to the “toolless oil change video you’ll find it” 😎
@ th-cam.com/video/NiNx0ECIHuw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5MaXpNNPScfu_7dO
Exactly my question: "identified the drain plug on the passenger side of the engine". I'll be looking for it later today.
This will help in the long term for head gaskets failing at 150-200k
Y’all do a great job on getting to the point and being 100 informative while being as close to the owners manual as possible. Great videos too, love the edits and music
Thank you Miguel! Welcome to the team 🍻
Just bought my first Tacoma (and first car on my own). I can tell this video is something I am going to be looking back at often. Thank you!
Welcome to the team! 🍻
What a wonderful library of videos you’ve created. In under 40 minutes of watching an owner has everything they need to keep their truck running like new. Here’s a few suggestions for down the road.
Throttle body clean
MAF clean
Brake cleaning, front
Front break replacement
Rear brake replacement
PCV replacement
Brake bleed and fluid replacement
Power steering fluid replacement
Water pump/thermostat replacement
Starter replacement
Center bearing support, driveshaft
I really appreciate it. Big plans in the near future. In fact, one super length video in the next week or so might be the single most valuable video for Tacoma owners. And great list!
@@teamoildrop Awesome. Now your just teasing 😀
I would never 😅
It seems this is the only vid that actually does a full coolant change, the other guys talk and do nothing helpful! Thanks
If they talk for 8 minutes then they are hitting their monetization goals 🙄 glad I could help!
@@teamoildrop You rock!!!
I spent all day looking for how to do this, and I am one of your subscribers lol. I should have checked with you first. Even the Car Care Nut doesn't show how to do this. Thanks again for the detail!!
Happy to help, and happy wrench turning!
Thanks for your service and scarification in combat! Hats off.
@@JL-fly7 🍻 😌
this is the best channel for tacoma maintenance i will for sure be using these techniques on my 23 trd pro
Love it brother, beautiful truck! Welcome to the team! 🍻
Just bought a 3/8 ryobi brushless ratchet wrench. Can't wait to do this. Love how much at ease these videos make the job feel.
Why you don’t have more subs man, wonderfully explained, to the point, and infographics
All in good time! Thanks brother
Plan on doing this at 30k. Use only Toyota factory pink coolant. For 21 tacoma.Glad there is a block drain. Very good video 🍻
Thank you and agreed! The Toyota SLLC is quality.
Is it absolutely necessary to use the Toyota pink coolant? Or will it be fine to use an alternative?
@@JP3.14I think its absolutely necessary to use at least pink/red coolant, anything that says toyota, lexus, scion, or like asian vehicle - pink/red, basically anything that says pink/red, asian vehicle, something like that.
There is an actual reason for this and its because the pink coolant is formulated for aluminum radiators and cooling systems and whatnot (which toyota and lexus have been using since around the very early 80’s), however, with that said.
1. No it does not HAVE to be Toyota SLLC, it can be any pink or red/ asian vehicle coolant or anything along those lines
2. Using a coolant other than pink/red, aka coolant thats $5 for a gallon vs $20, is not going to harm your vehicle in the short term of things, but long terms a different story. Not really worth it to save $30 initially then having to replace your entire radiator later on.
In general, coolant is coolant and as long as you are at least keeping the truck cool, ho for it, I just wouldn’t keep it in there more than 10-15k miles if you use something other than pink/red/asian.
Sorry for writing so much, I usually do that when I explain things like this, don’t really like receiving indirect answers so, naturally, I just write long, detailed answers with reasons why I believe that.
@ thank you, I appreciate the in-depth reply. I hold on to information better when I understand the “why”.
@@JP3.14you can go ahead and disregard this, I’m just leaving a far shorter reply for others
Yes, pink coolant is necessary, no, it does not have to be Toyota SLLC, just anything pink/red/asian. The reason for this is because pink/red is formulated to protect aluminum radiators which are found in Toyota vehicles. You can use a different color of coolant, but you need to drain it out and flush it with water and a radiator flush/degreaser within 10k miles of using the different color coolant.
I’m so glad you happen to do videos on a Tacoma 🙌🏼 you help a lot.
Thanks!
My pleasure! Thanks for the words
Thanks for another great video. Based on your videos I did both differentials and transfer case a couple days ago....piece of cake. Your old coolant looked pretty clean!
Thank you! Love to hear it. It definitely did but quality of a fluid is not always visible to us. It definitely could have run longer though!
I recently joined the channel & no lie, it’s becoming 1 of my favs. Str8 to the point & super informative. I need more content! Keep it comin bruh.
Love to hear it. That’s what I’m going for! No monologuing and unnecessary opinions. I’ve got a number of videos still to make in the coming weeks!
I’ve taken a pic of my empty reservoir! I’ll hold onto it for when yal need it for the giveaway. Also, GREAT tip on the knobs for the skid plate. I got those & installed them using some thick plastic washers instead of stacked metal washers, helps out the worry of losing washers.
@@chris4866 giveaway info was just posted here in the original post www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-maintenance-maps-swing-by-new-stuff.789809/
Just did this on my 2018 SR5. This is a very helpful video. However, quick lesson learned. When it comes to your overflow reservoir and you've kept it up to the full line. The "cup from your favorite local barbecue" had better be 24 oz. Mine was only 16 oz and it overflowed causing my only spillage. Small point, but good to know.
@@jamesmiller384 great tip. Rudy’s BBQ had me covered with that 32oz. That spillage is easily forgiven, but yeah, I pride myself on a job where I don’t spill a drop. And that’s not all that common 😆
Bro I must commend you for your editing style! All of your videos are easy to watch and to the point. Got my sub love the 3g content!
Thank you brother! Love to hear it and welcome to the team! 🍻
Such a simple and straightforward channel. I can not tell you how appreciative I am about the no fluff, right to the point information.
Any chance there's a throttle body servicing video in the pipeline? Your spark plug vid already saved me about $500 instead of going to the dealership. Worth the cost of knuckle busting if you ask me.
It’s on the to-do list for sure brother! Thanks for the words, it’s what keeps us motivated 😎 🍻 love to hear the savings 💥
This was super helpful. Thanks. The only thing I did different was remove the passenger side front wheel for easier access.
Thanks! And that’s a good idea for sure if you don’t wanna link every extension in the world together
Or just turn the wheel all the way to the left allowing more room to get under the wheel well
Damnn what a great channel, keep it going!
Thank you brother, watched this video months ago, finally got around to doing this and with this video for backup this pm went smooth !
🍻 love to hear it 😌
Nice, clear description on finding that hard-to-find block drain plug.
thank you!
Thanks for the video, it really helped me a lot!
So For me it worked best with a 5/16" (8mm) Inlet Diameter clear tube, it was much more snug and tight without no leakage at all, instead of the 3/8" tube which I tried first and it was leaking coolant. I bought it at a hardware store, it was cut to length i decided to get 5 feet long. In case someone else is in the same boat as me..
Perfect, thanks for the tip! Glad the video was helpful for you.
-Austin
Hell yeah some bumps with the knowledge... A+ BOYS AND GIRLS THANKS
Get it brother! 🍻
Your videos/instructions are exceptional!
Thanks! Front brakes and rotors are on the editing table now
Got my new team oil drip maintenance poster...SWEET! Looks like this will be job 1.
Nice!!
Greg the Editor
Subscribed!
Man the quality of the Videos 🎉
Welcome to the team! 🍻
Awesome tutorials. Thank you greatly.
@@williamanders7129 🍻
Great VID--clear instructions, tools needed, DANGERS present, how to!
Thank you 😌 🍻
Thanks for the video. I looked for the drain cock on the engine and never could find it. That thing is hidden. Keep up the good work!
Isn’t it hidden deep?? My pleasure
@@teamoildrop It is insane where Toyota put it. :)
Thanks dude! appreciate the help! I like how everything was filmed and straight to the point! Subscribed! Also, do I have to drain the engine block? I dont have that many extenders. I will go buy some if I have too though
Thanks man! Always appreciate the words. You don’t have to drain the block, just know you’ll only be getting about 30% out at a time from the rad therefore you’ll be doing it a 3 or so times to get a good flush. Completely okay and some would argue safer to go this route as there are those who fear breaking the drain on the block.
I changed at 101xxx and the old stuff didn’t look much different at all! Good stuff
Subscribed as your 140th! Hope you reach millions in the future.
Thank you Mike! Shooting for the stars ✨
Another awesome video.
What size tubing, ID, are you using to drain the radiator?
I’m assuming the same tubing is used for draining the engine block?
Question- might it be easier to do this earlier, say at 30k miles, and just drain the radiator and overflow reservoir? This way you are investing new coolant more often, approximately 1 gallon, and sidestepping the need to open up that engine block plug. This would be similar to performing a tranny drain and refill every 15k miles to introduce some clean fluid to mix with the older fluid.
You know… it’s the same tube I just pop off my bottle pump, thus justifying the residual tranny fluid in it in the first scene. As long as the interior diameter is 9mm you’re gonna be good!
As for the more frequent mini flushes. I’m all for it, but wouldn’t do it myself simply because the block drain is hidden but by no means hard to access (as long as you have extensions) and you’ll still have to burp anyway. I would never knock someone for draining 30% more frequent then 70%, kind’ve a tomato tomato user preference deal I’d say
Do you squeeze the driver side radiator hose with the engine running? I thought it would be dangerous sticking your hand in there with the belts going.
I definitely did, it’s not exactly the “safe” move but many of us do it. Work it at your own risk.
Very good instructions!
Happy to help!!
-Austin
The Toyota coolant does it come premix 50:50?
Toyota SLLC (super long life coolant) is premixed ready to go!
Do you recommend changing the radiator hoses and cap at the same time as a precaution?
I personally see no reason to unless you see some dry rot on hoses or other wear. My 2016 has lived in some rough environments and did not need.
@@teamoildrop Thanks. Really appreciate the advice. These videos and the maintenance map you put together are fantastic. Thanks for doing it!
Man you’ve gotta live in the springs. Colorado tags and a Rudy’s cup?
There is a 110% chance you are correct ha!
Question for you the hose for the block drain what size hose was it?
Same hose size I used on the rad. 9mm/.35” interior if I recall correctly. Listed in the parts required part of video too.
Team oil drop love your content just subscribed.
Thanks! I'll be home in a few weeks and back at it! - Tyler
What kind of coolant do you run. I have some pink/red in mine but idk what that is.
I use Toyota SLLC, Check the beginning of the video and it’ll tell you all you need. Don’t use another color!
Hello Sir. Roy, from Yuma, Arizona. I was wondering if the engine block drain is really all that necessary when changing the coolant in my 2019 Tacoma. The last vehicle I ever worked on, regularly, was a 1979 CJ-7 straight six. Usually, once per year, I would drain all the fluid out, grab some cheap coolant and non-tap water, then a six pack and hall ass all day long. Probably don't want to do that today. Your thought? Much appreciated.
Draining the block isn't completely necessary. But, do keep in mind, you won't get all the old coolant out. I do believe I have done that once to twice back in the day. Certainly not recommended now.
Thanks for the comments and the question, appreciate ya
Greg the Editor
Thanks sir. Have a nice day.
Thanks, you as well
Greg the Editor
Thank you so much for this awesome video. I repeated most of the steps successfully except I can’t seem to get the thermostat to open (lower hose is not as hot as the top one). The outside temperature is 72 and I tried to rev it between 2-2.5k rpm for tens of minutes. The engine temperature is always stable in the middle of the range. How long does it take for the thermostat to open? Is there a way to check the temperature and the status of the thermostat?
The only accurate way of checking the coolant temp would be through an OBD2 or code reader that allows for live data. However if your truck is showing the temp in the middle range of the gauge you are good to go. The radiator is also doing its job properly if the lower hose is cooler than the top hose. Nothing to worry about here!
-Austin
Thank you so much. Best.
Hahaha dude you are awesome describing it hahaha. Love about the bbq favorite cup
Glad you liked it!
Greg the Editor
Did you get any Maintenance Required warning lights come on? Its going to be my Tacomas first coolant change
I did not!
Question at 1:18 do you have to engine block drain? 🤔 and how much quarts does it take?
You don't have to drain the block. You could just drain the 3 qts from the radiator and do the rest of the process. However, your new coolant will mix with your old coolant and you'll only be about 30% fresher. You could do this multiple times similar to a transmission drain and fill. Burp every time!
@@teamoildrop question that engine block drain can you get it from underneath instead of the passenger side fender?
@@Midnightkevin maybe... with very long skinny arms. I did not even attempt honestly.
What about draining on the driver’s side engine block ? Should it be done too or just one side then it’ll be completely drained
There actually isn’t a ton of great information out there on the 2GR-FKS and if there’s a block drain on the drivers side or not. From what I deduced, there isn’t one. But also we are just following Toyotas procedure in the factory service manual and they do not mention a block drain on the drivers side. We’re just trying to get a majority of the fluid out, just a drain and fill not a full flush. www.tacomaworld.com/posts/21315411
-Austin
Is this the 2grfks? I have a highlander and she is right at 100k. Planning on doing spark plugs and coolant this weekend
@@TJsVette sure is! 💪 killin it
Great video. Thanks. The dealership wanted $220 to change coolant.
My only concern with doing this work was, the 10mm bolt for the block drain was very tight. I was concerned that the bolt was going to break.
Good work; that is definitely something you don’t want to break, but at least it’s done!
Have you considered doing a video on how to flush the heater core?
Heater core is flushed when the radiator is flushed
Greg the Editor
Great video as always. What happens if you don't squeeze all the air out? Is there any adverse effect?
You will just end up a touch low on coolant in the overflow reservoir, as that is where it will pull from if there is an air pocket in the system. Nothing serious to worry about, we just advise keeping an eye on your overflow reservoir over the next few weeks to ensure that the level is correct as marked on the side of that bottle.
-Austin
Would this be the same process for a 3rd gen 2.7 litter engine
@@dragonblade71ify very similar process but different quantities. This process is very similar on most modern vehicles. However, not all will have a block drain in the same spot or even available. I believe your 2.7 drain is tucked back there in a similar spot.
@@teamoildrop just wanted to make sure. Thank you for giving me feedback🫡
I have a question,If the coolant is drained from the block without removing thermostat how could you fill coolant back in the block with coolant before starting the engine? Do you not damage the engine to run the engine without coolant in it?
Use an spill proof funnel no harm will happen unless your engine is hot already.Coolant will start to circulate already until it reaches operating temprature
Keep in mind that coolant will flow into the engine block from the lower radiator hosed past the water pump. The engine block will be mostly full.
The Editor
@@teamoildrop I know it’s late reply, I thought the coolant flows via thermostat into the engine block then back to the radiator. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Is draining the block really detrimental? I mean there cant be more than 8oz in there right. I just dont have the 30" extension
You’d be just fine without doing it. Also, nice AoE reference…
Is the block drain in the same location on a 4 cylinder model?
I beleive so... been a minute for me
I like to do this job every 50-60k and I usually go one step further than just a drain and fill, I usually put water and a flush, like blue devil, and then open the thermostat and get it to flush through the whole system.
Im actually in the process as of right now… my block drain was different than yours so I had to get under the truck and reach up and around to crack it loose, coolant was like, maroon red in mine.. pretty sure its a good thing I changed it when I did
Just replaced the coolant today in my 2.7l taco. Definitely wouldn't have had the courage to do it without this video, so thanks! I was worried, however, when the reservoir didn't fill itself like it did for you. I ended up filling it halfway after letting it cool and before taking it for a drive. No problems with overheating by the way, but would you happen to have any thoughts about the reservoir not filling itself? The only thing I can think that might have made a difference is that I used a real burp funnel which seals better to the radiator
That certainly could have contributed to it not bleeding off to the overflow tank. Either way as long as you have coolant between the lines (hot or cold depending) on the overflow tank you should be good to go! Any air bubbles will work themselves out as the coolant cycles temp and reflect that in the overflow tank, so just check on it for the next week or so to make sure the level stays within the safe range!
-Austin
So i just have a question for you .i work at a dealership and have access to a coolant flush machine is the coolant flauh machine better than doing this ? Or is this a flush vs drain and fill ?
@@holahola6292 if you can replace 100% of it via machine I’d go for it.
@teamoildrop sweet man ! So in your video it's more of a drain and fill ? Vs a flush
@@holahola6292 that’s exactly what it is. A standard drain and fill that we can do in our driveways without the fancy machinery 😎
does this apply to the 2GR-FKS 6 cal. engine (2018 Highlander)?
While sporting the same engine, I don’t want to say without experience the the cooling system is IDENTICAL. It likely is, but please do your own research. As for basic procedure of a coolant drain and fill, these steps are practically universal.
Thanks, I have a 2011 and just hit 100k. I did make a big mistake I was low on coolant and used green stuff then stared to have boil overs! Kept putting in more green only to learn the two font mix. Had to flush using distilled water 2X then put in “Asian Red”. It was a mess.
yikes brother! I bet that was a headache
Maybe a dumb question but I purchased 4 of the coolant pink oem toyota .I have a trd pro manual 3.5 with towing package it states 11 does that sound about correct .
@@holahola6292 you won’t get all of it out but that’s okay! You’re replenishing the majority of it. You’ll be good
Where can I get this .35" hose? What fraction size hose should I look for? No .35" at home depot
It’s linked in the pinned comment and description!
Thank you. Can i ask also... do you agree with using fuel cleaners like additives to your gas tank?
This is the content all Tacoma owners need 👌🏽🫡 Keep it up!
Thanks! Will do!
Greg
These videos have been super helpful. Question, should I stick with OEM fluids from Toyota? I’m planning on doing a trans, coolant and transfer case fluid swap but OEM is pricey.
I personally run OEM for coolant, transfer case, and trans fluid. Beyond that anything goes. Thanks for the words!
@@teamoildrop good to know, thank you!
I followed your video to a T. After about a week later, my radiator is under pressure when cold. First thing in the morning, after the truck has sat all night in 40-degree weather, I've taken the cap off with the engine off, and air sizzles out as you take the cap off. The fluid isn't really low. it's up to the top.
What could be the issue? It's a 2021 trd. Maybe just some more air in there causing pressure when cold? Overlfow is at the correct fill line. Advice?
Air pockets would seem like the typical culprit. Any issues prior to the fluid exchange? It might be worth performing the coolant air burp process over again and making sure the thermostat is fully open.
-Austin
My '19 Tacoma SR has under 16,000 miles on it. When would you recommend I change the antifreeze?
A good interval for coolant is 5 years or 50k!
-Austin
@@teamoildrop Thanks Austin! Taco is 6 years old now I guess I'm over due.
Does it really matter if it's toyota Brand Coolant? I noticed you use toyota brand as much as possible with all your fluids, but is it actually any different or better?
@@jamesstepsidechevy the honest truth is while Toyota does not manufacture there own fluids, they do have them made to their exact specs. Plenty of people run other name brands just fine, I stick to Toyota just for the peace of mind. You’ll be fine straying from the Toyota brand.
If you put the Tacoma up on a lift, can you access the block drain plug?
Yes but you'll need the wheels to be no higher than chest height on the lift, otherwise it'll be quite difficult to reach that block drain.
-Austin
How often yall changing coolant ?
5 years or 50k
-Austin
Is that the 2GR-FKS engine?
Yes this is!
-Austin
My reservoir did not filled when filling radiator, am I doing something wrong ?
Anyways. Everything is at regular temp. I followed everything you did.
Thank you so much.
@@kevinromero3990 not unusual, just fill the res to the line and keep some coolant on you for a few days as you monitor. Make sure you burped the bubbles out and you’re good!
@@teamoildrop that’s what I did,
Thank you for your answer!
What size hose did you use to drain the coolant?
@@Starman-yt8lj at 0:27 it should be on the left 🍻
I overlooked that, thank you!
Where can I get the clear rubber drain hose?
@@IVAN-e5u at the Amazon link in the comments and description!
Would it be the same process and bleeder location for a 2019 Toyota Highlander? It’s the V6 2GR-FKS engine.
@@4lbertoZ4val4 even though your engine bay layout is different; the same basic principles and steps apply. The block drain plug should also be identically placed. Your radiator is likely a different size.
@4lbertoZ4val4 the 2GR-FKS doesn’t get a bleeder valve, but yes the location on the engine is the same for the block drain. However the engine is rotated 90 degrees so it is on the backside of the engine near the firewall. I could not find a video of a 2019 Highlander but I did find this one on the Lexus RX which is the same layout. th-cam.com/video/bwsqjZ3GiBw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kLXHnFkaX1VmdAGk
-Austin
What size is your drain hole tube?
I put it in the what’s required intro for ya!
Very helpful, but you do know that you could put that cap back on and avoid spilling all that while purging, right? That's the point of the overflow tank
Great point! There's several different ways of trying to burp out the air and you can definitely leave the cap on and let them pop out into the overflow tank.
-Austin
If i buy a burp funnel what process does that eliminate?? Having to rev the engine and squeezing the radiator hose??
@@mr_hype2365 no change in process, you’re still squeezing. Rev is optional
@@teamoildrop thanks for the response, keep up the great work 👍🏾
@@mr_hype2365 🍻 😎
Do you have to drain it? Cant just top it off with new coolant into the existing coolant?
Your truck (hopefully) is not leaking coolant therefore it shouldn’t have room to add more unless you drain some. You could just do a radiator drain and add the amount you drained in the end.
good teacher
Giving you rear brakes in the next day or so. Just finished filming!
Hey I'm noticing a ton of overflow and splashing going on? I've always been super careful to not get this stuff on things but if you aren't sweating it,what am I missing? Hosing down after or ???
It does make a bit of a mess, but it doesn't cause paint damage or anything. It's rather easily washed and rinsed off.
Greg the Editor
@@teamoildrop 10-4 sounds good to me
How do you get the wheel well flaps off without breaking?
@@jasonphillips1382 I usually snap the old clips and just replace. They are pretty brittle with age and road grime.
Oh ok, 👍 thanks for the reply.
I have a 2017 taco trd OR. It's only got 30k miles on it, and I take care of it very well. I found an issue recently after noticing cold air blowing from heat, and I saw the temp gauge go above halfway. What I found was, coolant level in the reservoir at the "low" line, and nothing visible in the radiator when I removed the cap. The truck is mostly parked in my driveway, and there's no signs of leak, on the ground or any in obvious in the coolant lines/radiator. Any insight or help would be great. I've ordered a replacement radiator cap and thermostat in case.
Also, I've been adding coolant as I drive. It seems to get sucked down in the reservoir
Thanks I advance. Merry Christmas/ happy holidays.
Hmm that's for sure an interesting one. I'd make sure you check over the entire engine bay and make sure you don't have any crusty pink/white residue anywhere as that is what our coolant looks like when it dries up after a leak. Other than the obvious things, I can't really pinpoint what would be causing you to loose coolant. How does the oil look during an oil change? Any signs of coolant in the oil?
I'd just make sure your coolant is full to the appropriate mark and check for leaks, perform an oil change so you can see if there's any coolant in there and sort of go from there. It's obviously disappearing somewhere as the cooling system is a closed loop, we just need to figure out where.
-Austin
@teamoildrop I'll definitely check again for dry stains of coolant, but yeah, I haven't seen non thus far. The oil is clean and clear, smells, and feels like oil (only). I'm due for an oil change soon, so I'll keep an eye out for anything different.
Does this completely bleed the cooling system
Yes, the idling and burping procedure is what bleeds the air out of the system. It isn’t a full coolant flush, just a drain and fill, gets about 2/3 of the old coolant out.
-Austin
Thank u
Why and when should this be done?
5 years or 50k miles. Over time the coolant becomes more and more acidic and will eventually start to corrode components within the cooling system, this should help prevent that!
-Austin
so if i bleed once and swap to this coolant, do I have to bleed every time? Aren't i just topping off the same coolant type?
If you drain the radiator and the block, you will need to bleed the coolant system. Once the system is bled, the expansion tank will act as the reservoir to ensure the system is full.
Greg the Editor
DO A BRAKE FLUID FLUSH W ABS VIDEO PLEASE.
I do owe us some brake videos... They are on the to-do list in the not-so-distant future - Tyler
@@teamoildrop That would be awesome! I just did my 30k flush, at 50k and now my pedal is a little spongey on the first push, then firm on the 2nd push. Apparently there is a fairly complicated procedure that requires a scanner while bleeding to allow abs to also purge air.....ugh! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS! THEY ARE VERY HELPFUL!!
Isn't coolant flow to the heater core always in-line? None of the vehicles I've owned controlled coolant flow to the heater core. The controls moved a damper to direct or stop air flow across the heater core.
You are correct, thank you for your addition.
Greg the Editor
Awesome Vid
Thanks! Glad you stuck around!
NIce... Rudy's cup. I have one available.
@@DavidWelling everyone should 😎 I love my Rudy’s cups when I just need 40oz at the ready
After watching this you definitely should just get a burp funnel. Makes it so much easier and cleaner.
Being that most owners will do this 0-1 times in the life of their truck ownership I just saw no need 🤷♂️
@@teamoildrop I will be doing it soon on my 2018 Tacoma. Currently at 97k miles, got the funnel and the coolant ready to go.
@@hardkombucha love to hear it, the burp funnel will make this a breeze
Why do you use 7qts if the truck holds 10-11 qts
This is a coolant fluid drain and fill, not a full coolant flush. In order to get the 10-11qts out, you’d likely need to pump it through the block/heater core to get it all out. Changing out ~70% of the fluid is good enough to get any of the acidity/contaminants that we’re worried about out of the system!
-Austin
@@teamoildrop do you happen to have a coolant flush video I thought this was the same thing. Did it now at 60k since I just bought the truck my first Tacoma so I’m still learning. Will probably do the flush at 100k. Awesome content btw it really helped me. I’m following your videos since I’m doing all the fluids/oils since I don’t trust the dealership did them even though they said they did
We don't have a flush video. Flushes are typically done at a mechanic shop with a machine that has an external pump and is pumping fluid through the cooling system. So not exactly DIY friendly since you need a special machine. For DIY, drain and fill is more than good enough.
-Austin
@@teamoildrop thank you 🙏 your videos have helped a ton :)
Jack! LOL!
Thank god I only have 1000 miles. Cuz I don’t have that many extensions 😂
a day may come when your wife asks you why you bought x3 of the same thing
OK so I 100% will not return to any social media nonsense EXCEPT i am going to join TOD discord...for obvious reasons as well as its not really social media like the others and I always seem to need someone's help when doing any maintenance on my 2016 that I've owned for year 2 now. As I begin to do my coolant I'm stifled and have a question. When turning the 10mm on the engine block drain,the actual drain stem is turning with the nut...I'm assuming it's NOT supposed to? HELP and I'll see yall on discord soon enuf✌️
Wait.....so the entire drain cock is backing out?
Greg
Yeep,I'm so lucky😅
Anyone ever notice that the brand new pink coolant has sparkles in it?
(Sort of like if fiberglass bits got in the coolant)
Have not noticed that......will take a look
Thanks
Greg the Editor
@@teamoildrop I took a video of it, as it was so weird to me, and I can post it in your Tacomawold thread 👍. Also thanks for all the great videos!
Why aren’t we mixing colors for the coolant I’m just “asking for a friend.” 😂
Usually the coolants were never designed to be used together, so we just recommend sticking with the OEM fluid since some mixing will always occur when doing a coolant fluid exchange.
-Austin
And there's another 100 bucks added to the shopping list for 2 gallons of coolant.....
Just say to yourself “I’m saving hundreds vs the dealership doing it” and then you can smile again 😂
😂 ahh mman you dont turn on the heater, your turn the dial of tour heater to maximum heat but you dont turn it on meaning the fan it actually takes long to heat like this! Tou also need the speacial funnel that helps burp the system , once the engine fans kicks on you know your good for the butp the system
Attention to detail is key.
You have a point, the temp is indeed maxed, however, the fan being on won't increase the engine's warm up length by any major amount of time.
Yes, you can buy a $40 special funnel.....or you can mod one you already have.
Great additions/suggestions, Thanks
Greg the Editor