It's amazing how turning the "patina" into something other than destructive rust transformed that revolver. It went from blah to museum display piece with just some boiling water, carding, and a good reassembly oiling. Mr. Novak, you are a craftsman of the highest order, and I enjoy watching you work your magic on all those old firearms.
An old video, but one I felt needed a RePost as it reinforces the conservation theme. Try this th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html many questions answered here. Our production value has come a long since this, and it shows.
I just finished manually conserving an 1896 Krag carbine, gutter tray boiling over a gas Weber, 0000 steel wool, used motor oil and mineral oil. Results amazing! Some screws look absolutely NEW,!! Mark, I wish we had you and TH-cam 40 years ago!!
Love watching how you gleefully spray all the various stuff on your fingers. I'm the same way, been absorbing unknown amounts of hydocarbons for decades, following that up with a nice premium cigar.
You make it look so easy, as if I could just put my name out there for $100/hr to clean up rusted guns, but I've seen those moments when you have to custom make parts and screws. Beautiful work, good sir.
I wonder whether Ian is actually also gonna make a video about this revolver. It is so satisfying to see you restore these pieces of history btw. Just stumbled across your channel yesterday, and I am already in love. Just makes you feel good knowing someone with some dedication to quality and the experience has put time into these pieces of history. Love it!
I think I may have liked this the last time it was posted... It is amazing to see that deep blue come out from under the carding wheel. I need you to do an early 1911 for me. First you will need to provide one. :) As always thanks for making your years of practice look easy.
😀 Usted es una de las pocas personas con las que aprendo cosas viendo sus videos... lo felicito por su forma prolija de trabajar... usted es todo un artesano como los de antes... Saludos desde Buenos Aires, Argentina
I do a lot of my own gunsmith work. I usually get guns that have problems that I can fix. But Thursday I came on a Colt SAA NIB made in 1996. The price was too good to pass up. As I'm a shooter, not a collector, I cut the wire bundle tie to prepare to shoot it. It wouldn't cock! I took it apart and found the bolt rusted in place. I had to drive the base pin out from the rear as the oil had dried up. I have it cleaned up and it's working now but it's something I didn't expect to find. Maybe if you've encountered this situation, maybe make a video. Thanks, enjoy your videos.
small trick...the trigger guard swings off (easily) by pulling back (like a trigger pull) and then rotating downward. Makes re-insertion and removal of the trigger return spring far simpler and less prone to damage when mounting or dismounting it.
I absolutely lovew your videos, but you need to do something about those socks. God, man... ;) Thank you, Mark. dit: I listened to music like this when I was having cancer surgery, and it really helps. Thank again.
Watching you do your magic was like watching a master watchmaker bring a fine (but poorly maintained) antique timepiece back from the brink. I’ve never been a fan of early French revolvers. But after seeing what’s “under the hood” - and what it looks like after proper conservation and refurbishing - I’m in love! (Please don’t tell my wife.) 😘
Hi Mark. Very good work, as usual. It just seems that you are not very familiar with the particularities of the French 73/74 revolver. After removing the cover plate and main spring, the next step is to remove the trigger guard by pulling back and down its rear tab, just like you would with a Garand or Mini 14. This will release the pressure of the trigger spring. Then the trigger, the sear and its spring will be easily removed without the need for any tools. Coincidentally, carding the inside face of the trigger guard will also be easier.
Mark, I honestly love your videos! It helped me a lot to maintain my guns properly. I just have a question regarding metal that was finished in the white. What is the proper way of maintaining that "finish"?
hey mark, my name is will.. i am a fellow gunsmith, i have been working at a local shop for about 3 years now. i was a little late to the game here but i found my calling. let me start by saying your videos are incredible and all inspiring. So thanks for all of your hard work. that being said, i have a firearm that came across my bench that is giving me a very hard time. i believe that it is a belgum pocket pistol possible a bulldog of some sorts..the customer is a friend of mine and so the story of the pistol is as follows. it was taken off a german during ww2, brought home and the grandfather removed a part to make it non shooting. well the current owner would like to get it in at least functioning order. i cant find any schematics nor any technical data. i am having a really hard time removing all of the screws to fully disassemble the piece.they are frozen and very soft.. is there any way we can have a chat . so i can pick your brain.
willebiggz Hey buddy. Mark’s a busy guy, but I’m sure he’d be happy to help a fellow gunsmith. The email addy I’ve seen him give out publicly on YT is markfixesguns@gmail.com - I hope this is of some help. As I say, a number of people have requested contact for private enquiry and Mark has offered up that very email, so I don’t think I’m betraying any confidence here. And good luck.
This will be the second time I have seen this I think. Out of curiosity, how much material do you think this process removes ? I mean you’ve done it, and a Froggy armoury probably, there must be some sloppiness comes from doing this ?
Often you are adding material. Rusting metal gains weight not loses weight. Boiling it adds even more mass as it converts the rust back to rust oxide so carting off the red rust should bring you back to close to the same starting mass. I am sure some of this process has caused a net loss but I’m guessing if it’s done before pitting that difference will be very small.
I have Two of those revolvers in Nickel Plate. I know we've seen glimpses or edited on here but this one showed more detail which I love. Looking forward to Part Deux . Also curious about how to best handle conservation on a Rifle that originally didn't have a blueing finish. Just a thought for another time and Thank You for your Service.
I am unaware of the 1873s ever being produced in nickel plate - but they were produced "in the bright." Are you certain they are nickeled and not actually bright finished from St. Etienne? 'Course with two you need a rig like Brendan Frazier's character in the movie "The Mummy." :) They shoot well.
Mark, do you boil in distilled water or just tap water? After watching some of your other conservation videos I've been boiling and carding several guns. Thanks for sharing how to do it! I could watch these videos all day long!
I'm not Mark,but I have had best results using rain water. It's very slightly acidic, and doesn't contain dissolved solids like ground water does. If you use ''hard'' water there is a chance that you will get calcium carbonate streaks on the parts. The best thing for big stuff is a steam chamber.
@webtoedman I thought about trying rain water but haven't yet. I used tap water on the first gun I boiled and it worked just fine. After that one I used distilled water on the last 3 guns just to be safe. I thought about trying water from a dehumidifier. I need to just build a stream chamber. That would simplify things for sure and just boil the small parts on the stove with distilled water.
I absolutely Love watching Gun Buddha work his wizardry on Gun Jesus' weapons! It is just so cool. I'm also impressed that Mark brings in outside experts like in this video. This is easily one of the very best channels on TH-cam!
amazing change!! i bet the owner smiled when he picked that one up!!! I wish the "flash rust" theory black powder shooters would watch some conservation videos!
very nice! A trick for the trigger spring that's always very hard to place back and VERY fragile : remove the trigger guard, place the spring and then put back the trigger guard, that's its front leg that puts pressure on the spring.
Great as always. One thing that I never see in rust conversion videos is what do you do whit the inside of the barrel or the inside the cylinder if rust has to be removed?
This dude has tougher dermis than I have. After only ten years of cleaning rifles one day per week, even 20 years later my thumbs crack and bleed due to that solvent abuse at the edges of my nails. I have to fill the cracks with crazy glue, press together and sand to keep them from getting worse. A dermatologist taught me that trick. Wear nitrile gloves on at least one hand, my friends! I'm just sayin' ...
Interesting, thanks for the PPE PSA... I was curious what long term exposure might do to a person's skin. Side note: I include 3M Vetbond w/ my IFAK's. I suppose it's not too far off from the Krazy glue alternative.
I have an Official Police that needs this treatment. I want to try it myself. I believe it is within my capabilities but I want to make sure that I understand the steps 1.) Dismantle 2.) Degrease 3.) Boil 45ish minutes 4. Card 5.light oil and reassemble The one aspect I'm iffy on is the carding, I can use 0000 steel wool? What else,sort of a wheel on a motor? Thanks for your work Mark!
Grey towel, better sound and the blue wall make the newer ones easier to watch, but this was one of the better old ones. The rifle part of this coming as soon as we can find the root video.
I love watching and I am truly impressed with the conservation results you achieve! Do you take on projects from viewers? I have a lever action Winchester model 64 chambered in 219 zipper that has been in my family a couple generations. I would like to make it ready to pass on to pass on to one of my kids or grandkids.
When you do a boil, does it matter what water you use? My first instinct is that you would want distilled and deionized water, but I'm not sure if the lack of ions would be better, worse, or irrelevant. For that matter, does the chlorine in city water matter? Is it absolutely ruinous?
When only converting off years of rust and goo, tap water is just fine. For really fine, from the white rust bluing, distilled MIGHT be better but thats just an opinion. We have used both, and cannot tell. As for the hardness, if really hard water use distilled
Le revolver 1873 ou 74 tel que celui-ci ont le pontet démontable ce qui est plus facile pour le brossage. De plus, la détente, le marteau et la portière de chargement ne sont pas noirs mais passé au jaune. Le 1873 peut utiliser de la poudre AS française (smokeless) mais pas le 1874 à cause du barillet plus fragile car évidé. Dans les pires moments de la résistance française au cours de la seconde guerre mondiale, les résistants utilisaient des cartouche de colt 1911 maintenues par du chatterton dans le barillet car les cartouche de 1873 étaient impossibles à trouver. Bravo pour cette restauration.😀
@@wesmerhillpom1545 Pour jaunir une pièce métallique, il suffit de la poser sur une plaque en métal chauffée et surtout, avoir un local bien éclairé pour faire la manipulation. Dès que la couleur souhaitée est atteinte, on retire rapidement la pièce et on la refroidit dans de l’huile. On peut avoir du jaune pâle au brun foncé et si on attend encore un peu, la pièce va virer au bleu jusqu’au bleu très fonçé. Cette méthode est utilisée en horlogerie et est valable pour toutes les petites pièces métalliques. On appelle cela ”passer au jaune”.
awesome work ...... have you been able to remove the barrel on this or the 1873 model ? i have a 1873 that i rechambered to 45 schofield , the barrel is on the worn / formerly rusty side / loose side , that i wouldn't mind making a new barrel for . i've been told the barrel is threaded , but i'm really hesitant to try to remove it , and there doesn't seem to be alot of info on these guns out there
Excellent work, dou you recomend to the owner use this revolver with original ammo (11 mm black powder)? or reload ammo with less power? PS The music is great, polish frederic chopin, nocturne opus 92 number 2
They only need to be torn fully down every 15 years or so, depending on the environment and conditions of use. The full teardowns we do here are to really gacked up gear that should have been done decades ago. I take every gun fully down, because I can. Most can't, and we get that.
With that rust in secret places, you can tell that's an old black powder revolver. I really like your buffing/polishing/cleaning setup. What motor is that?
Excellent video (and music). I would like to have this done to a Remington 1858 Cartridge Conversion that hung in my pa's basement for decades and after that in my basement for decades before I took it to a local gun shop just to find out what it was. Although not in good enough shape to ever shoot again (trigger spring is broke, too) it would be nice to have it cleaned up correctly for display. I don't know if there is anyone in my area (central WI) that would do this and I wouldn't trust myself to do it properly. Any suggestions?
Blueing is nothing more than rapid rusting. When a weapon rusts or has slight wear from age, when you boil it in the water, it helps the more Corroding rust seperate from the metal with a little help of course from the Carding wheel. What is left on the bottom is the original Blueing finish.
th-cam.com/play/PLQ8hvyC8cR2XppC_W8DYHKZboBH28e1Ie.html try this, play through at 1.5x for a feel. th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html is where to begin actually. Good luck, glad to have you aboard
Hi Mark. I need your help. I have an old S&W 357 that my nephew gave to me in pieces and would like to get it re-finish and in good working conditions. The problem that I have is that I'm 76years young and have real bad back problems. I would like to take it somewhere to get it done. I'm planning to give this to my grandson (he is 19). I live in West Melbourne Florida. I have taken it to a couple of places and they will not touch it. I called S&W and they told that they were closed because of Covic 19. Can you help me? My email is: papolaboy@yahoo.com.
I have watched this vid several times and have purchased both the 4 row and 2 row from Brownell's. Several times while carding a part the wheel grabbed the part out of my hand and threw it across the bench. The method of carding the frame is the same that you do. At what RPM is your wheel turning? My dedicatedset-up runs at 6000 RPM. I can put a light dimmer type switch between the outlet and motor to slow it down if need be... Hope to hear an answer from you soon. Thanks!
@@marknovak8255 Thanks for the info Mark. I was mistaken on my RPM - it was 3750 and I can not put a dimmer switch on it because it starts up using a "can" instead of brushes according to information on the product. What brand of long shaft buffer do you use?
@@ronzimmermansr8331 Is it motor starter (capacitor)? For varying AC you'd need a variac. If you could swap out the motor that would be the easiest route although I'm not sure if the buffer is built where you can directly swap a different motor in.
Your skill and experience are clearly obvious, but you also have a mechanical intuition, or “sixth sense.” You are a gunsmithing “Kramer” (I.e., you have the “Kavorka”!)
It's amazing how turning the "patina" into something other than destructive rust transformed that revolver. It went from blah to museum display piece with just some boiling water, carding, and a good reassembly oiling. Mr. Novak, you are a craftsman of the highest order, and I enjoy watching you work your magic on all those old firearms.
An old video, but one I felt needed a RePost as it reinforces the conservation theme. Try this th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html many questions answered here. Our production value has come a long since this, and it shows.
Oh, i was gonna say the haircut looked good. Oh well, still a quality video.
I'm sure Ian was very happy with your work!
Mark I love your taste in music. Chopin's Nocturne in E Flat Major is such a calming piece of music to listen to.
play some steven freakin foster ......this is fredrick fucking chopin
It's always a pleasure to watch a real craftsman at work , Mark You are a tradesman of Distinction . Thank You ! , Stay Safe & Stay Well.
Watching your hands work to Chopin is brilliant. I need this kind of beauty in my life.
Bought my Carting wheel from Brownells, best thing I ever did for my conservation jobs, thanks Mark!
I just finished manually conserving an 1896 Krag carbine, gutter tray boiling over a gas Weber, 0000 steel wool, used motor oil and mineral oil. Results amazing! Some screws look absolutely NEW,!! Mark, I wish we had you and TH-cam 40 years ago!!
What was the mineral oil and motor oil for?
Thanks so much for these uploads/re-uploads Mark. I consider these to be the best and most satisfying episodes of the channel.
I’m sure Ian will be pleased
Always great watching how the shine on these old guns come back to life after a trip to the firearm beauty spa.
Music is actually Polish (Chopin). Superb work, as always.
the most relaxing firearm assembly I've watched, the music was the best
Watching the process of you assemble the firearm should be in all your videos. I learn so much froM this guy it’s unreal.
Nice work my friend. Always a pleasure to see a true artisan show his stuff.
Love watching how you gleefully spray all the various stuff on your fingers. I'm the same way, been absorbing unknown amounts of hydocarbons for decades, following that up with a nice premium cigar.
I love how after the conservation and the clean/polish from the carting wheel, the bluing has a beautiful blue/purplish hue
The Carding parts is always so satisfying
You are a pleasure to watch, and the music you chose for your assembly was classic. Nicely done.
You make it look so easy, as if I could just put my name out there for $100/hr to clean up rusted guns, but I've seen those moments when you have to custom make parts and screws. Beautiful work, good sir.
I wonder whether Ian is actually also gonna make a video about this revolver.
It is so satisfying to see you restore these pieces of history btw. Just stumbled across your channel yesterday, and I am already in love. Just makes you feel good knowing someone with some dedication to quality and the experience has put time into these pieces of history. Love it!
Thanks for the sub. Help spread the word please
@@marknovak8255 absolutely, helping your european audience grow as we speak
As an Englishman who never gets to handle firearms, I love your workmanship Sir
a French gun, owned by Ian... what wild divergence from established convention
Col Metaldetector ho trovato questa rivoltella...100 anni sotto terra....sbloccarla sara' da piangere...il vostro video mi aiutera' molto...
I think I may have liked this the last time it was posted... It is amazing to see that deep blue come out from under the carding wheel. I need you to do an early 1911 for me. First you will need to provide one. :)
As always thanks for making your years of practice look easy.
You're are a true artist and craftsman.
😀 Usted es una de las pocas personas con las que aprendo cosas viendo sus videos... lo felicito por su forma prolija de trabajar... usted es todo un artesano como los de antes... Saludos desde Buenos Aires, Argentina
Cleaned up very nicely
I do a lot of my own gunsmith work. I usually get guns that have problems that I can fix. But Thursday I came on a Colt SAA NIB made in 1996. The price was too good to pass up. As I'm a shooter, not a collector, I cut the wire bundle tie to prepare to shoot it. It wouldn't cock! I took it apart and found the bolt rusted in place. I had to drive the base pin out from the rear as the oil had dried up. I have it cleaned up and it's working now but it's something I didn't expect to find. Maybe if you've encountered this situation, maybe make a video. Thanks, enjoy your videos.
small trick...the trigger guard swings off (easily) by pulling back (like a trigger pull) and then rotating downward. Makes re-insertion and removal of the trigger return spring far simpler and less prone to damage when mounting or dismounting it.
Thanks, noted for action. For info.....this technique works great, after all the rust and previous frame damage have been dealt with. Just sayin.....
@@marknovak8255 yes. Agreed. I should have apecified that in my first comment. A rusted frame wouldn’t work of course
master of his trade at work.
I absolutely lovew your videos, but you need to do something about those socks. God, man... ;) Thank you, Mark.
dit: I listened to music like this when I was having cancer surgery, and it really helps. Thank again.
The music is actually from a Polish guy who happened to live in France for some time; Chopin, for those interested. Nocturne, Op.9 No.2
Watching you do your magic was like watching a master watchmaker bring a fine (but poorly maintained) antique timepiece back from the brink. I’ve never been a fan of early French revolvers. But after seeing what’s “under the hood” - and what it looks like after proper conservation and refurbishing - I’m in love! (Please don’t tell my wife.) 😘
Hi Mark. Very good work, as usual. It just seems that you are not very familiar with the particularities of the French 73/74 revolver. After removing the cover plate and main spring, the next step is to remove the trigger guard by pulling back and down its rear tab, just like you would with a Garand or Mini 14. This will release the pressure of the trigger spring. Then the trigger, the sear and its spring will be easily removed without the need for any tools. Coincidentally, carding the inside face of the trigger guard will also be easier.
Please keep educating us.
Absolutely love to rewatch and relearn!!! Thanks, Mark!
l appreciate getting to watch you work...My.... friend...Thanks once again...!
Mark, I honestly love your videos! It helped me a lot to maintain my guns properly. I just have a question regarding metal that was finished in the white. What is the proper way of maintaining that "finish"?
Billy ,I have the same question.
hey mark, my name is will.. i am a fellow gunsmith, i have been working at a local shop for about 3 years now. i was a little late to the game here but i found my calling. let me start by saying your videos are incredible and all inspiring. So thanks for all of your hard work. that being said, i have a firearm that came across my bench that is giving me a very hard time. i believe that it is a belgum pocket pistol possible a bulldog of some sorts..the customer is a friend of mine and so the story of the pistol is as follows. it was taken off a german during ww2, brought home and the grandfather removed a part to make it non shooting. well the current owner would like to get it in at least functioning order. i cant find any schematics nor any technical data. i am having a really hard time removing all of the screws to fully disassemble the piece.they are frozen and very soft.. is there any way we can have a chat . so i can pick your brain.
willebiggz Hey buddy. Mark’s a busy guy, but I’m sure he’d be happy to help a fellow gunsmith. The email addy I’ve seen him give out publicly on YT is markfixesguns@gmail.com - I hope this is of some help. As I say, a number of people have requested contact for private enquiry and Mark has offered up that very email, so I don’t think I’m betraying any confidence here. And good luck.
This will be the second time I have seen this I think. Out of curiosity, how much material do you think this process removes ? I mean you’ve done it, and a Froggy armoury probably, there must be some sloppiness comes from doing this ?
Often you are adding material. Rusting metal gains weight not loses weight. Boiling it adds even more mass as it converts the rust back to rust oxide so carting off the red rust should bring you back to close to the same starting mass. I am sure some of this process has caused a net loss but I’m guessing if it’s done before pitting that difference will be very small.
ART AND ARTIST
Thank you Mark.
What's going on at 17:36, it looks like he's rethreading a hole with a screwdriver?!, with the requisite shavings coming off?
Using a smaller tweaker to get some stubborn glock out of the bottom of a blind hole, and distributing the oil.
I have Two of those revolvers in Nickel Plate. I know we've seen glimpses or edited on here but this one showed more detail which I love. Looking forward to Part Deux . Also curious about how to best handle conservation on a Rifle that originally didn't have a blueing finish. Just a thought for another time and Thank You for your Service.
I am unaware of the 1873s ever being produced in nickel plate - but they were produced "in the bright." Are you certain they are nickeled and not actually bright finished from St. Etienne? 'Course with two you need a rig like Brendan Frazier's character in the movie "The Mummy." :) They shoot well.
Mark, do you boil in distilled water or just tap water?
After watching some of your other conservation videos I've been boiling and carding several guns. Thanks for sharing how to do it! I could watch these videos all day long!
I'm not Mark,but I have had best results using rain water. It's very slightly acidic, and doesn't contain dissolved solids like ground water does. If you use ''hard'' water there is a chance that you will get calcium carbonate streaks on the parts. The best thing for big stuff is a steam chamber.
@webtoedman
I thought about trying rain water but haven't yet. I used tap water on the first gun I boiled and it worked just fine. After that one I used distilled water on the last 3 guns just to be safe. I thought about trying water from a dehumidifier.
I need to just build a stream chamber. That would simplify things for sure and just boil the small parts on the stove with distilled water.
@@c6quad3 That's certainly worth trying. The local water company should be able to advise as to whether their supply is ''hard'' or soft water. HTH.
I absolutely Love watching Gun Buddha work his wizardry on Gun Jesus' weapons! It is just so cool. I'm also impressed that Mark brings in outside experts like in this video. This is easily one of the very best channels on TH-cam!
You had me worried with the boiling cuz it looked so terrible even compared to before....but it took no time and it was beautiful
amazing change!! i bet the owner smiled when he picked that one up!!! I wish the "flash rust" theory black powder shooters would watch some conservation videos!
Ian has french pistols too...not a shocker
More like, we'd be surprised if Ian didn't have a French pistol or 50! 😜
when Gunsmithing God conserves one of Gun Jesus' personal weapon systems you just know it's gonna be both joyful and triumphant!
very nice! A trick for the trigger spring that's always very hard to place back and VERY fragile : remove the trigger guard, place the spring and then put back the trigger guard, that's its front leg that puts pressure on the spring.
Great as always. One thing that I never see in rust conversion videos is what do you do whit the inside of the barrel or the inside the cylinder if rust has to be removed?
Card the inside with a bore brush. Watch this for more th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html
Nice video and love the high falutin music! A little mournful Chopin for the FeO (RIP).
This dude has tougher dermis than I have.
After only ten years of cleaning rifles one day per week, even 20 years later my thumbs crack and bleed due to that solvent abuse at the edges of my nails. I have to fill the cracks with crazy glue, press together and sand to keep them from getting worse. A dermatologist taught me that trick.
Wear nitrile gloves on at least one hand, my friends! I'm just sayin'
...
Face mask is a good idea, that stuff puts me to sleep, like a half bottle of whiskey.
Interesting, thanks for the PPE PSA... I was curious what long term exposure might do to a person's skin. Side note: I include 3M Vetbond w/ my IFAK's. I suppose it's not too far off from the Krazy glue alternative.
How do you address the spot in between the barrels of a drilling
Awesome job.
Beautiful work
mfw Ian said that he thought Mark was too busy and wouldn't send anything
mfw I've been bamboozled
Yes
I have an Official Police that needs this treatment. I want to try it myself. I believe it is within my capabilities but I want to make sure that I understand the steps
1.) Dismantle
2.) Degrease
3.) Boil 45ish minutes
4. Card
5.light oil and reassemble
The one aspect I'm iffy on is the carding, I can use 0000 steel wool? What else,sort of a wheel on a motor?
Thanks for your work Mark!
Short of, not sort of...
7:25
0000 is just fine. You may need 2 or 3 boilings, if the rust is deep. The order as you list it is correct.
th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html covers everything else. Welcome to the club, sir.
Still my favorite anvil of all time.
Grey towel, better sound and the blue wall make the newer ones easier to watch, but this was one of the better old ones. The rifle part of this coming as soon as we can find the root video.
anyone know the episode where he goes over the chemistry on the white board of the conversion process?
I have two questions, first is this only for rust bluing and second what brush did you use? Thank you
I love watching and I am truly impressed with the conservation results you achieve! Do you take on projects from viewers? I have a lever action Winchester model 64 chambered in 219 zipper that has been in my family a couple generations. I would like to make it ready to pass on to pass on to one of my kids or grandkids.
It's amazing this was in some mechanical engineers head and he was able to make this before the advent of CAD/CAM lol.
LOL I could small the cleaner as you sprayed it LOL
Wonderful!
When you do a boil, does it matter what water you use? My first instinct is that you would want distilled and deionized water, but I'm not sure if the lack of ions would be better, worse, or irrelevant. For that matter, does the chlorine in city water matter? Is it absolutely ruinous?
When only converting off years of rust and goo, tap water is just fine. For really fine, from the white rust bluing, distilled MIGHT be better but thats just an opinion. We have used both, and cannot tell. As for the hardness, if really hard water use distilled
@@marknovak8255 thanks for the reply.
Mark, It looks like you can remove the trigger guard. Is there a screw up front, or am I not seeing this properly?
It's dovetailed in. You can see the dovetail at the start of the reassembly sequence.
Thou shall reap the rewards for thy work on the holy objects of gun Jesus
I bought a carting wheel but don't know how much air to put in the inner tube???
The gun doctor and gun jesus (forgotten weapons) need to do a collab.
Gun Jesus and John the gunsmith ;-)
How do you card the bore and chambers? Bronze brush on a drill motor??
Shoot it
Bore brush, clean like you normally would. Tooth brush for nooks and crannies on the frame.
wertewrtwert if it’s very furry you can actually do real damage. Rust is a barrel obstruction although a pretty minor one in almost all cases.
Mark Novak thank you 🙏🏻
the last part was really relaxing, i wish i could be that calm while assembly my nagant or my gf ww2 very aussie flare launcher
Le revolver 1873 ou 74 tel que celui-ci ont le pontet démontable ce qui est plus facile pour le brossage.
De plus, la détente, le marteau et la portière de chargement ne sont pas noirs mais passé au jaune.
Le 1873 peut utiliser de la poudre AS française (smokeless) mais pas le 1874 à cause du barillet plus fragile car évidé.
Dans les pires moments de la résistance française au cours de la seconde guerre mondiale, les résistants utilisaient des cartouche de colt 1911 maintenues par du chatterton dans le barillet car les cartouche de 1873 étaient impossibles à trouver.
Bravo pour cette restauration.😀
Ce n'est pas passé au jaune c'est juste trempé et le revenue les fait devenir jaunasse
@@wesmerhillpom1545 Pour jaunir une pièce métallique, il suffit de la poser sur une plaque en métal chauffée et surtout, avoir un local bien éclairé pour faire la manipulation.
Dès que la couleur souhaitée est atteinte, on retire rapidement la pièce et on la refroidit dans de l’huile.
On peut avoir du jaune pâle au brun foncé et si on attend encore un peu, la pièce va virer au bleu jusqu’au bleu très fonçé.
Cette méthode est utilisée en horlogerie et est valable pour toutes les petites pièces métalliques.
On appelle cela ”passer au jaune”.
Background music during reassembly is awesome! Are you the one playing it?
awesome work ...... have you been able to remove the barrel on this or the 1873 model ?
i have a 1873 that i rechambered to 45 schofield , the barrel is on the worn / formerly rusty side / loose side , that i wouldn't mind making a new barrel for .
i've been told the barrel is threaded , but i'm really hesitant to try to remove it , and there doesn't seem to be alot of info on these guns out there
I do the maintenance on my 1975 Itoh road bike.
GREAT WORK + MUSIC !!!
Excellent work, dou you recomend to the owner use this revolver with original ammo (11 mm black powder)? or reload ammo with less power?
PS The music is great, polish frederic chopin, nocturne opus 92 number 2
11mm French Ordnance is a very anemic round to start with. No need or way to reduce load. Run any gun with the ammo it was designed for.
@@marknovak8255 thanks a lot
Hello, Ian!
Well done Mark. I wish I could have seen you open the ejector on the cylinder and card that also. Or, maybe you didn't do that.
Shouldn't the Chamelot-Deligne be unblued in original condition?
The M1873 was Arsenal Bright; the M1874 was the Officers Model, and was blued.
Any parts on a Winchester 1897 I shouldn't attempt this process on? Other than obviously not blued parts.
Boil everything. Recommend not to do this to aluminum. This vid shows much more... th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html
How often should I fully disassemble my firearms to properly maintain them?
They only need to be torn fully down every 15 years or so, depending on the environment and conditions of use. The full teardowns we do here are to really gacked up gear that should have been done decades ago. I take every gun fully down, because I can. Most can't, and we get that.
With that rust in secret places, you can tell that's an old black powder revolver. I really like your buffing/polishing/cleaning setup. What motor is that?
Is it wrong that I find the sound of the carding wheel, even sped up, to be very relaxing?
Excellent video (and music). I would like to have this done to a Remington 1858 Cartridge Conversion that hung in my pa's basement for decades and after that in my basement for decades before I took it to a local gun shop just to find out what it was. Although not in good enough shape to ever shoot again (trigger spring is broke, too) it would be nice to have it cleaned up correctly for display. I don't know if there is anyone in my area (central WI) that would do this and I wouldn't trust myself to do it properly. Any suggestions?
Round about what does it cost to a conservation done on something like a Remington 1917
wonderfull !!
Sorry, I am new to the channel. What does boiling it do? Thanks !
Blueing is nothing more than rapid rusting. When a weapon rusts or has slight wear from age, when you boil it in the water, it helps the more Corroding rust seperate from the metal with a little help of course from the Carding wheel. What is left on the bottom is the original Blueing finish.
th-cam.com/play/PLQ8hvyC8cR2XppC_W8DYHKZboBH28e1Ie.html try this, play through at 1.5x for a feel. th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html is where to begin actually. Good luck, glad to have you aboard
@@marknovak8255 thank you! Great work!
Hi Mark. I need your help. I have an old S&W 357 that my nephew gave to me in pieces and would like to get it re-finish and in good working conditions. The problem that I have is that I'm 76years young and have real bad back problems. I would like to take it somewhere to get it done. I'm planning to give this to my grandson (he is 19). I live in West Melbourne Florida. I have taken it to a couple of places and they will not touch it. I called S&W and they told that they were closed because of Covic 19. Can you help me?
My email is: papolaboy@yahoo.com.
Mark is an absolute maniac, man doesn't care one bit about hosing his hands down with brake cleaner, lol.
I'm sure his skin doesn't absorb any of those petrochemical solvents...
Cut Finder 5000
I'd be more worried about the chemicals in processed foods than a few seconds of absorbed aerosol cleaner.
Did you soak the parts in kerosene or non-detergent motor oil after carting or did you go straight to the Lucas?
First oiling is the non gun oil. In a few hours, the finish sets and the Lucas is ok after that
Thanks. That is what I thought. Love your videos!
Bravisimo!!!!!
I have watched this vid several times and have purchased both the 4 row and 2 row from Brownell's. Several times while carding a part the wheel grabbed the part out of my hand and threw it across the bench. The method of carding the frame is the same that you do. At what RPM is your wheel turning? My dedicatedset-up runs at 6000 RPM. I can put a light dimmer type switch between the outlet and motor to slow it down if need be... Hope to hear an answer from you soon. Thanks!
My longshaft buffer turns 1750 rpm, 4 pole motor running at 60hz
@@marknovak8255 Thanks for the info Mark. I was mistaken on my RPM - it was 3750 and I can not put a dimmer switch on it because it starts up using a "can" instead of brushes according to information on the product. What brand of long shaft buffer do you use?
@@ronzimmermansr8331 Is it motor starter (capacitor)? For varying AC you'd need a variac. If you could swap out the motor that would be the easiest route although I'm not sure if the buffer is built where you can directly swap a different motor in.
Your skill and experience are clearly obvious, but you also have a mechanical intuition, or “sixth sense.” You are a gunsmithing “Kramer” (I.e., you have the “Kavorka”!)
Ah...the ol’ hot wrench....the last resort before the welder comes out to play.
What is the brand and model of the lubricant you are using here? I'm rather fond of Ezzox, but could be converted to something else?
Looks like Lucas gun oil to me.
@@mobilemechmantim773 Yes Mark has spoken highly of the Lucas gun oil in previous videos.
What is the specification of the carding wheel? Description? Material? Purchased of fabricated?? Links to where you got it from
7:37 th-cam.com/video/62_pKoYje9o/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MarkNovak
Thank you