Help fund future builds here: buymeacoffee.com/pcpairgunschannel Every bit helps keep the creativity flowing!🔥Thanks so much for all the support lately! 🙏
I just wanted you to see this. Some good hardwood "soft jaws" for your vice, and a solid brick or tile for your anvil while heating will help the part stay warmer while while working. The metal jaws of the vice absolutely drain the heat from the part your working. Good work bro.
@@doganilehersey7138 selamlar, tam olarak bilmiyorum ama bence genel olarak iç çapı 6.3mm-6.35mm iyi çalışabilir ve düğme çapı 6.45mm-6.55mm olsun, en az 0.15mm farkı lazım. Google'den bunları daha iyi çekebilirsiniz.
Nice video and very educative. But an urgent message from my side: NEVER WEAR GLOVES WHEN WORKING ON A LATHE ! The chance that your glove will be caught by a rotating workpiece is significant. You can imagine what this does to your fingers... or even worse. In my career as a technician I once witnessed a young guy who was found death on a lathe. It was a horrible experience. He was working alone in a shop. He wore gloves while working on the lath, he was sanding/polishing a rotating piece of tubing in the lath. The rotating tube caught his glove, then his sleeve and then his work jacked. The poor boy was strangled to death. The lath blocked while the motor kept running, the V belt started to heat up and caused a lot of smoke that came out from under the door. People in the area noticed this and so they went inside the shop and found the poor guy. Even now I get goosebumps when I think about it.
something similar once happend to me. during the first few month as an apprentice i worked alone on a drillpress in the shop for the first time. did some special parts and wore gloves. it was a rather big and weird shaped piece of metal so i coudnt fixate it to the vice, so i was holding it. than it slipped out of my hand and a sharp corner cought my glove and ripped if from hand and instantly wrapped it around the drillbit/workpiece. luckily that was not my hand. never ever wore gloves around spinning machines and always fixed workpieces in a vice since then.
There was another video that my eldest son showed me too. I've never been more terrified of a price of equipment as I was when I saw the poor guy get basically rolled up by an industrial lathe. It was beyond horrifying to watch as his clothing was about all that held together as it wrapped him Backwards onto the lathe while the repeated slams basically burst his tissues til there was nothing left😔
Agreed. I wear gloves when using power tools that you can pick up but never on ones that are fixed pieces of equipment such as lathes, mills, bench grinders etc.
"I hate" fingers "Still in" gloves still spinning round lathes and drill presses! Thump, thump, thump, and the cry of less decimals on the digits. Hearing PPE. think twice, slow down, What? could go wrong?
I made a sine bar machine which allows me to make different twist rates but a lot of work...this method you come up with is perfect for people with minimal tooling excellent idea mate well done
Sounds great! Yes, this works really well and can be made with just an angle grinder, torch and some very basic tools. The end result looked better than I expected, very clean grooves.
Hey I work as a machinist I have a few pointers 1. Take those gloves off or you’re going to mangle your hand and maybe lose digits. 2. Buy a set of micrometers it’ll help get better results and tell you a lot more about your actual thickness. 3. Get a dial indicator to indicate your stock true, I’m assuming you do more lathe work and it’ll give you better results and save you headaches in the long run. 4. Look into getting a hex bar at the size you need made of 4140, or a tool steel if you can cut it, itll last a lot lot longer after a good heat treat and you can sit down with mics and a whetstone and smooth it out and get it perfect. 5. When youre ramming your button down the barrel use excessive lubricant the gun drill we run in the shop literally fills the entire barrel with pressurized cutting fluid, it save your tool and make a cleaner cut . 6. If you’re working on a budget you can get a bottle jack with a long stroke to drive the ram and button down the barrel this will help with the finish and accuracy as you’re not beating the button repeatedly but driving it consistently. It’ll also be less of a pain I did black smithing and a press cuts down on your arms fatigue 7. Idk what you’re using as oil but tapping oil works great and gives better finishes, tool life, and keeps heat off the part. Overall good job my dude.
We had a catering equipment business here in Glasgow Scotland,Along with the usual stainless steel fab using tig,stick and mig press breaks etc ,we had a Colchester student center lathe for machinery shafts ruined by idiots trying to mix solid frozen meat????,wearing a pair of leather gloves i almost got my left hand ripped off,by some miracle i managed at super human speed to slip my hand out of the glove as it began to wrap around bar stock in the lathe,which was spinning fast for a fine finish cut. I still can't believe i kept my left hand intact,I play banjo,bass and guitar so that would've been a big issue for me. The only other thing i did wrong on that machine was using cloth backed emery that tried to drag my thumb(left,ironic) around the bar stock. A "Y" shaped tool with clamping grooves and fixed in the tool holder made sure i could put an even ground finish at a fixed rate on any bar stock and not lose or damage any digits.
@@pir869 ah the emery can get you, if you’re gonna do that and you’re not used to doing get a foot and half piece and use that never wrap it around your fingers and be mindful of which way you spin the stock. Either way using a long ass piece gives you room and time to let go of it and not get sucked into it. If your doing an I’d lower the spindle speed and take your time.
Realy? I can't believe it! For at least twenty years I've been trying to rifling. I never thought that would be so easy. It is true that until a few months ago you could buy inexpensive rifling buttons online, but they were not available in all calibers. Now I don't see them on Aliexpress anymore, and the ones on Amazon are very expensive. Furthermore, the ideal is make the barrel from a steel bar. Using Allen wrenches for rifling is a fantastic idea. Congratulations!
Thanks! The quality of this rifling of course isnt as good as what a commercial button can produce, but I definitely was satisfied with the accuracy I achieved with this. The accuracy is similar to most decent-high accuracy PCP air guns.
a tip for further rifling experiments - you can grind carbide tooling at home, either slowly with corundum wheels or a bit faster with diamond tooling. You can buy blanks (will make your wallet sad) or find a machine shop that uses carbide endmills, they should have a few broken ones they might be willing to part with for little to no money also - lathe+gloves=bad, possibly very bad injury waiting to happen
Thanks for the tips.. I have stopped using gloves while operating a lathe long ago thankfully. I will consider your carbide tooling idea, I will test many more rifling methods on this channel.
A good video on what can be done with minimal tooling but I would suggest to make it easier: 1. A 7/32" allen key would have been the size you were after with less work. 2. A 7/32 hex socket would have been easier to do the twist of the allen key with. Nice job though, good stuff.
Mooi werk.ek soek nou al lank om n geweer loop te masjien.Jy is gestuur om ons iets goed te leer.Weer mooi werk.Stuur net die finaale werke waar u die loop toets met n koeèl of meer.Dankie my maat👏👌👍
A helical reamer can be cut to make a rifling button also. It takes a little finesse to push it through the rifle bore but it does work. Grind a lead on the end to help hold it centered then sharpen each flute. Push it through the rifle barrel with press with lots of lube. Chambering requires a lot more finesse!
the width of the rifling should be greater than the width of the fields or the same, such a barrel will greatly spoil lead bullets, which means that the accuracy will be poor. I used to make a button on a lathe using a knurling with a straight tooth and a pitch of 1.2 mm, which was equal to 12 threads of 5.5 mm.
I was thinking you could start with a larger Allen wrench for the steel stock. Machine it to the standards you mentioned, for equal & flat lands & grooves, then heat & twist.
I could not believe you crowned the most distorted part of the barrel. You should have used that end for the chamber, not the crown as elastic deformation can return the metal to its original dimensions under pressure causing eccentricities in the muzzle that will damage accuracy. Other than that and the use of gloves on a lathe, I think you did quite a good job.
А где вы видели ключи шестигранники, чтобы они могли нарезать сталь? Любой ключ шестигранник, без проблем берёт напильник и надфиль. Если бы он сделал Дорн из побидитовой напайки для резца, это ещё можно было бы поверить , что это дорн, который может нарезать резьбу в стальной трубке.
@@arturhovhannisyan3606 да это любому, кто имеет дело со слесарными и токарными работами, ясно как светлый день, дорн можно из обоймы подшипника изготовить, но твердую сталь, этот дорн не возьмёт и нет гарантии, что не расколется как стекло, а мягкое железо, нет смысла нарезать, даже на пневматику.
Buen desarrollo en el estriado de su cañón al menos una idea que muchas personas desconoce lo que sin trucos falta probar la precisión ahí es donde en realidad se obtiene el resultado de su trabajo 😊😊😊😊😊
I would have made the rifling cutter bit longer to prevent any possibility of wedging sideways into the tunnel. While highly unlikely, you are using impacts to drive the bit through and just a little bit of torsional momentum could theoretically cause one blade edge to really dig in and ruin your barrel. I forget the length to width ratio of what you need but it's not a lot longer than what you have. Just a thought. I think it's great even as is.
leave the button stock longer,twist it using a spanner or a hex socket,cut off excess to suit length. A more even twist should be accomplished as the force of the hand doing the twist is purely on twisting and not gripping and twisting. Simmilar to making barley twists for ornamental steel work. While pushing a button through a barrel i thought of using a couple of ball bearings ,but they might try to deflect and damage the cut lands and grooves,instead i would try a couple of 10mm sections of pushrod flat turned ends and polished to act as bearings as the main push rod exerts forward force they can aleviate the twisting resistans against the cutter and push rod,molybdenumdisulphide grease along with hypoid EP90 are what i would use since one is very slippery and the other is for gear mesh under extreme pressure(EP). Molycoated bore with EP oil added to the rear as the cutter enters. To get the oxide layer off try some pickling paste or blueaway,blueaway is for stainles exhaust headers to take heat banding oxide off for show or just to keep them shiny chrome like.sanding changes the dimmensional size,especially when 10ths or less of a mm matter. Heat treating small parts using pliers to hold them acts as a heat sink,rather us some steel tig welding rods 0.8mm wrapped around the part ,you can twist a handle into the wire to get full 360 heating and not damage the pliers heat treating also. That steel tube comes in 20mm OD,i got 16mm as the 20mm stuff had wrong ID sizes,the ID sizes were sold out,chromoly explosion proof EN19/4140 hydraulic tube. Make a bottle jack attachment if you do this the hard tool might shatter leaving it jammed in the bore,the jack will give a far smoother cut and reusable cutter,drill rod is quite cheap,and 1-2 inch sections chamfered and lubed will as mentioned before act as bearings allowing a good smooth cut,hammering the rod mushrooms the rod also ruining them,plus the barrel crown gets mashed. Mark Serbu of serbu guns did this with a hammer and a press both worked buy the hydraulic method worked best,a bottle jack can be retro fitted with a threaded collar and a steel tube ,just check out other hydraulic tools for this job they are really quite simple taken as the basic form. A last note on crowns,counterbore the crown so it's reccessed in the barrel,BSA do/did this with as i know there air rifles so if the muzzle is dinged on a rock etc the crown is protected,1/2 inch depth is enough and will never need recrowning. You have the most expensive tool needed ,the lathe,a cheap stick welder can have a mig spool gun fitted,gasless wire ,a decent mig will give great welds with gasless wire. I'm not knocking you methods,i'm giving info to make the job easier or give a better finish using the cheapest methods. You will need a welder of some sort to adapt a bottle jack ,most have a large nut fixture holding it together and you weld onto that,taking it apart first and remove all seals from the nut before welding,ofcourse.
In the US a foam with a smooth bore barrel has to be 18" or longer, since it's considered a shotgun. So if you're building something shorter(like a pistol) you have to rifle it.
PURE GENIUS , THE PRODUCT AND THE MACHINIST ALSO !!!! IS THERE ANY WAY I COULD GET YOU TO MAKE ME A RIFLING BUTTON IN .50 AND .68 CAL FOR PAINTBALL AND LESS LETHAL MARKERS ?
@@pcpairgunschannel THATS A NEW ONE FRIEND , MANY PEOPLE MAKE AND SELL MACHINED PARTS , IS IT ILLEGAL ? THERE IS A LOT OF MONEY IN THE LESS LETHAL WORLD TO MAKE LIKE SPECIAL VALVES , BARRELS , DRESS UP PARTS , AMMO , END CAPS , TO MANY TO MENTION !
It might just shatter considering how hard and brittle drill bits are. It would also have way too much twist rate, which would hurt accuracy. A 40 grain .22 likes around 1:16" twist, which is why he barely had to twist the Allen key at all.
Молодец! Я делаю кнопку из шарикоподшипника,потом на токарнике с помощью болгарки прорезаю нарезки.И да,лучше всего проталкивать получается мощной дрелью-перфоратором.Плюс смазка машинная не годится-лучше использовать олеиновую кислоту с литол-24.Удачи в хобби!
@@pcpairgunschannel И да, на али и правда можно купить дорны для нарезей. Я раньше искал по запросу "rfling button" и ничего не находил, но по запросу "helical push drill" они вполне находятся.
@@andrsivohin8167 Круто. Я тоже на токарнике кнопку делаю и на нём сразу накаткой делаю канавки, накатка прямозубая с небольшим уклоном и шагом от 1 до 1,5мм в зависимости сколько нужно нарезов. Смазка на основе серы, талька и коллоидного графита и желательно канал обрабатывать тиосульфатом, как то так.
That was very impressive hope it tests well I have always been impressed with what a machinist can build I wish I had you skills if you lived near me in Louisiana USA I would enjoy being a friend to learn things the laws here are very favorable for hunters and sportsman but demoncracts are working hard to take that away I wish you well and if you ever want to move look this way hats off to you 👍
Hey, man! Maybe i'm a bit dumb to understand, but how is the bit you're hammering down the tube doing the riffling instead of just cutting straigh? How is it turning inside the tube?
Because it is twisted, it forcibly twists when pushed down A bit like a screw but the principle is reversed, here hammering it forces it to twist around but with a screw rotating it forces it to pull in
To make the button, you can use a drill bit as well, it's usually made of well suited HSS steel and you just have to drive it trough the barrel twice to get the necessary grooves.
That would work and I did try it but I didn't achieve as good precision with it. It's about skill so if you can manage to do it and keep the sides consistent in size then you can do it.
I admire your work, but a rifling button is just about 12$ ishhh so it's not practical to waste your time make all those fuzz? Furthermore you are not even sure how accurate the results would be? If it fails, you wasted time plus the tube you ruined. So why not buy the real thing?? It cost just less than 20 bucks
@@mrkalikutista8729 I would need more than just a rifling button. Commercial rifling buttons cannot be hammered and need tons of pressure, which will end up costing me a lot more than just 12$
@@pcpairgunschannel you're wrong you can do the same hammering with the cheap commercial one. Or use a bottle type car jack to push the rod instead of hammering it. Google hammer button, it's a good button, im using that one, stay away from those cheap chinese craps.
If you have a one inch long button and you want a 1 : 12" twist, twist the Allen key 1/12". Or something like that haha I'm not a mathematician. I'm sure there's a formula, but you get the idea
i don't know about what is the best twist rate, but 1:18 is a standard most 22 cal PCPs use. This is probably just a tiny bit higher than that, but not to the point where it would not function well.
@@pcpairgunschannel 1 in 18 that is interesting, I think Whitworths rifle was 1 in 20, whereas modern rifles are 1 in 7 to 1 in 12. Projectile weight makes a difference too.
@@grahamthebaronhesketh. yup. This is mainly for air guns tho. They need A lower twist rate to avoid overstabilization. I tried using another method to make a rifling button, but it didnt end well. Got 1:6 twist rate and very thin grooves. I will upload the video on that technique just to share it but i will try that method again and fix my mistakes
@@pcpairgunschannel 😁😁😁Great, I thought that was likely, but I wanted to make sure.....but did you know why I wanted an Arabic translation? So that I can understand and follow what you are saying. Greetings
@@pcpairgunschannel Весьма оригинально и главное просто. при наличии расширенного разнообразия оборудования есть возможность делать нарезы более технологичней и точнее. я нарезал нарезы спецрезцом изготовленным из шестиперьевой развертки, ленточка режущей части шлифовалась до необходимого размера и длина этой ленты оставлялась на 1.5мм.это и являлось шириной нарезного канала. станок токарный с автоматической подачей суппорта. есть и ускоренная подача, ствол зажимается в патроне. ставятся малые обороты, из ствола выходит приваренная оправка к резаку из развертки. она зажимается в резцодержатель. патрон вращается ничего не происходит и тут включается подача ускоренная вправо. равномерно вытягивает оправку с резцом . при этом выходит и стружка. так как заточка режет металл в стволе. происходит именно нарезка каналов. ваш метод конечно более простой и многим доступнее, но он продавливает каналы. свинцовая пуля мягкая и принимает размер ствола. и даже по вашему методу пуле легче идти по каналам продавленным, они ведь гладкие без всяких там мельчайших зазубрин. ваш метод считаю оптимальным для самодельщиков......удачи вам и желаю быть осторожным с законами.
@pcpairgunschannel At sea level plain pure water boil at 100°C and works just fine. This is why I don't understand the salt part. At sea level, saturated sodium chlorine brine has a boiling point of 108.7°C, and contains 28.41% NaCl... that isn't a big difference enough to justify salt use. Moreover oil also works even though it boils between 200 and 300°C and the higher the quenching temperature the lesser the hardening but still is ok. Do you put your brine in the freezer or use ice cubes to lower brine temperature below 0°C ?
@@LuluBear974 you are right that pure water works too. However its not about the boiling point only but also the thermal conductivity and the density. Salt water is denser and has better thermal conductivity
since the allen key is twisted slightly, just like a screw it twists itself in the barrel. I will still experiment many more rifling techniques and see what produces the best rifling
When you hit, you bend the barrel, these "riflings" will not work well, on modern barrels the width of the rifling is higher than the width of the rifling field, in your case it is the other way around... the bullet moves along the rifling, not along the rifling fields, the rifling fields give it rotation, in your case it is the other way around... acute-angled rifling does not work for long, and there should be a lot of them
Yeah, you can. Even on materials that are harder to cut like stainless steel it works fine, just as long as you use appropriate speeds and feeds and appropriate passes
Awesome stuff! One question, should it have a chamfer where the projectile leaves the barrel? I've never tried to make something of this sort, but was taught not to ruin the sharp edge on the end of the barrel of my 6.5x55 mm rifle.
Yes, it should be chamfered. It's called "barrel crowning", in the video I did that with high grit sandpaper and an 8mm steel ball, after chamfering the end with a drill bit. That might not sound very precise, but it actually leaves a very fine finish. Some rifle barrels might have different designs, others may have sharp precise non-chamfered ends while others have a deep chamfer. Search "barrel crowning" on Google and check the images, you'll see many different designs. Also, in my case this will not be used for a firearm, but for a PCP air gun.
I did this when i was like 12. It won't work. Your grooves are too narrow and the lands are too wide. You will simply have the bullet shear off bits of it in those narrow grooves. Also assuming your ID is correct and not oversized, those wide lands will create huge about of friction and deformation on the bullet. It has a high chance of blocking your barrel. The grooves have to be either the same as lands or bigger. (ChatGPT will surprisingly give you a good guidance). Either way better off left it smooth. Also PLEASE lose the glooves when working on the lathe. Even this little thing with a couple HP spindle absolutely will take off your hand. (Source: Mill/Lathe machinist for 10 years)
@pcpairgunschannel same same thing. Rifling for an airgun has absolutely the same rules as for firearms. If the bullet is undersize you will have a lot of air escaping through grooves and they won't spin the bullet. If you make the bullet bigger you will have too much friction and still run a risk of the bullet shearing. Well anyway now that you have a barrel grooved you can also use the smooth version to test if you actually got an improvement. Subscribed to see what the results are.
I really can't understand how it can twist on its own without having something attached that turns it, and in the end you bang it in, and I don't understand, even though it is SLIGHTLY twisted, how you can make the barrel rifled just by banging it in, it doesn't make sense for myself
Help fund future builds here: buymeacoffee.com/pcpairgunschannel
Every bit helps keep the creativity flowing!🔥Thanks so much for all the support lately! 🙏
I just wanted you to see this.
Some good hardwood "soft jaws" for your vice, and a solid brick or tile for your anvil while heating will help the part stay warmer while while working.
The metal jaws of the vice absolutely drain the heat from the part your working.
Good work bro.
Merhaba türkiyeden selemlar 6.35 namlu için düğme çapı ve tüp borunun iç çapı ne olmalıdır
@@doganilehersey7138 selamlar, tam olarak bilmiyorum ama bence genel olarak iç çapı 6.3mm-6.35mm iyi çalışabilir ve düğme çapı 6.45mm-6.55mm olsun, en az 0.15mm farkı lazım.
Google'den bunları daha iyi çekebilirsiniz.
@@pcpairgunschannel çok teşekkür ederim
@@doganilehersey7138 ne demek 👍
Nerelisiniz acaba?
Nice video and very educative. But an urgent message from my side: NEVER WEAR GLOVES WHEN WORKING ON A LATHE ! The chance that your glove will be caught by a rotating workpiece is significant. You can imagine what this does to your fingers... or even worse. In my career as a technician I once witnessed a young guy who was found death on a lathe. It was a horrible experience. He was working alone in a shop. He wore gloves while working on the lath, he was sanding/polishing a rotating piece of tubing in the lath. The rotating tube caught his glove, then his sleeve and then his work jacked. The poor boy was strangled to death. The lath blocked while the motor kept running, the V belt started to heat up and caused a lot of smoke that came out from under the door. People in the area noticed this and so they went inside the shop and found the poor guy. Even now I get goosebumps when I think about it.
something similar once happend to me. during the first few month as an apprentice i worked alone on a drillpress in the shop for the first time. did some special parts and wore gloves. it was a rather big and weird shaped piece of metal so i coudnt fixate it to the vice, so i was holding it. than it slipped out of my hand and a sharp corner cought my glove and ripped if from hand and instantly wrapped it around the drillbit/workpiece. luckily that was not my hand. never ever wore gloves around spinning machines and always fixed workpieces in a vice since then.
There was another video that my eldest son showed me too. I've never been more terrified of a price of equipment as I was when I saw the poor guy get basically rolled up by an industrial lathe.
It was beyond horrifying to watch as his clothing was about all that held together as it wrapped him Backwards onto the lathe while the repeated slams basically burst his tissues til there was nothing left😔
I never wear gloves with any power tool like grinder chainsaw etc cause you dont have a good grip
Agreed. I wear gloves when using power tools that you can pick up but never on ones that are fixed pieces of equipment such as lathes, mills, bench grinders etc.
"I hate" fingers "Still in" gloves still spinning round lathes and drill presses! Thump, thump, thump, and the cry of less decimals on the digits. Hearing PPE. think twice, slow down, What? could go wrong?
I made a sine bar machine which allows me to make different twist rates but a lot of work...this method you come up with is perfect for people with minimal tooling excellent idea mate well done
Sounds great!
Yes, this works really well and can be made with just an angle grinder, torch and some very basic tools. The end result looked better than I expected, very clean grooves.
Cano calibre 22LR ou 3,57 Magnum?
@@arpadlimanagy7018it's a 5.5mm ID tube, so .22-ish.
@@pcpairgunschannelI was thinking a bolt extractor might serve the purpose
@@robertarthurs328 Which purpose? I didn't understand, sorry
Hey I work as a machinist I have a few pointers
1. Take those gloves off or you’re going to mangle your hand and maybe lose digits.
2. Buy a set of micrometers it’ll help get better results and tell you a lot more about your actual thickness.
3. Get a dial indicator to indicate your stock true, I’m assuming you do more lathe work and it’ll give you better results and save you headaches in the long run.
4. Look into getting a hex bar at the size you need made of 4140, or a tool steel if you can cut it, itll last a lot lot longer after a good heat treat and you can sit down with mics and a whetstone and smooth it out and get it perfect.
5. When youre ramming your button down the barrel use excessive lubricant the gun drill we run in the shop literally fills the entire barrel with pressurized cutting fluid, it save your tool and make a cleaner cut .
6. If you’re working on a budget you can get a bottle jack with a long stroke to drive the ram and button down the barrel this will help with the finish and accuracy as you’re not beating the button repeatedly but driving it consistently. It’ll also be less of a pain I did black smithing and a press cuts down on your arms fatigue
7. Idk what you’re using as oil but tapping oil works great and gives better finishes, tool life, and keeps heat off the part.
Overall good job my dude.
Thanks for the tips!
We had a catering equipment business here in Glasgow Scotland,Along with the usual stainless steel fab using tig,stick and mig press breaks etc ,we had a Colchester student center lathe for machinery shafts ruined by idiots trying to mix solid frozen meat????,wearing a pair of leather gloves i almost got my left hand ripped off,by some miracle i managed at super human speed to slip my hand out of the glove as it began to wrap around bar stock in the lathe,which was spinning fast for a fine finish cut.
I still can't believe i kept my left hand intact,I play banjo,bass and guitar so that would've been a big issue for me.
The only other thing i did wrong on that machine was using cloth backed emery that tried to drag my thumb(left,ironic) around the bar stock.
A "Y" shaped tool with clamping grooves and fixed in the tool holder made sure i could put an even ground finish at a fixed rate on any bar stock and not lose or damage any digits.
Thank you I learned a lot.
@@pir869 ah the emery can get you, if you’re gonna do that and you’re not used to doing get a foot and half piece and use that never wrap it around your fingers and be mindful of which way you spin the stock.
Either way using a long ass piece gives you room and time to let go of it and not get sucked into it. If your doing an I’d lower the spindle speed and take your time.
The best video I've seen today. Engineering is the only way to create something
Realy? I can't believe it! For at least twenty years I've been trying to rifling. I never thought that would be so easy. It is true that until a few months ago you could buy inexpensive rifling buttons online, but they were not available in all calibers. Now I don't see them on Aliexpress anymore, and the ones on Amazon are very expensive. Furthermore, the ideal is make the barrel from a steel bar. Using Allen wrenches for rifling is a fantastic idea. Congratulations!
Thanks!
The quality of this rifling of course isnt as good as what a commercial button can produce, but I definitely was satisfied with the accuracy I achieved with this. The accuracy is similar to most decent-high accuracy PCP air guns.
a tip for further rifling experiments - you can grind carbide tooling at home, either slowly with corundum wheels or a bit faster with diamond tooling. You can buy blanks (will make your wallet sad) or find a machine shop that uses carbide endmills, they should have a few broken ones they might be willing to part with for little to no money
also - lathe+gloves=bad, possibly very bad injury waiting to happen
Thanks for the tips.. I have stopped using gloves while operating a lathe long ago thankfully.
I will consider your carbide tooling idea, I will test many more rifling methods on this channel.
carbide tooling will just shatter with this method, too much impact for such a brittle material
Looking forward for more videos 👍♥️@@pcpairgunschannel
I love this. Thanks for sharing. All the people complaining probably can’t even hammer a nail to hang a picture on the wall
A good video on what can be done with minimal tooling but I would suggest to make it easier:
1. A 7/32" allen key would have been the size you were after with less work.
2. A 7/32 hex socket would have been easier to do the twist of the allen key with.
Nice job though, good stuff.
You made the whole process of machining drill bits so much easier Allen keys why haven't I thought about it
Wow…. Never knew that making of rifle barrel can be done by such limited tools. But no doubt the hard work is appreciated 🙌🏻🙌🏻
our ancestors did it in the 1600's with less. Just start.
@@davefellhoelter1343 and don’t how it came into their mind that 🤩🤩
@@HopeIsAlliGot I would imagine watching nature?
Water flow, chucking rocks, sling shots, arrows. spears?
your work is brilliant and I'm here for it.
one of the best rifling jobs ive seen
thank you! I hope it will shoot as good as it looks
Mooi werk.ek soek nou al lank om n geweer loop te masjien.Jy is gestuur om ons iets goed te leer.Weer mooi werk.Stuur net die finaale werke waar u die loop toets met n koeèl of meer.Dankie my maat👏👌👍
Thats pretty impressive, for a chunk of hex wrench. 😳
Simplesmente perfeito.
Acho top demais o trabalho que você faz.
Parabéns e que Deus te abençoe sempre.
Abraço do seu seguidor aqui do Brasil.
A helical reamer can be cut to make a rifling button also. It takes a little finesse to push it through the rifle bore but it does work. Grind a lead on the end to help hold it centered then sharpen each flute. Push it through the rifle barrel with press with lots of lube. Chambering requires a lot more finesse!
The most detailed video I've actually seen on this method to date and I've watched a few of them, keep up your good work my friend.
Thank you!! 👍
the width of the rifling should be greater than the width of the fields or the same, such a barrel will greatly spoil lead bullets, which means that the accuracy will be poor. I used to make a button on a lathe using a knurling with a straight tooth and a pitch of 1.2 mm, which was equal to 12 threads of 5.5 mm.
I was thinking you could start with a larger Allen wrench for the steel stock. Machine it to the standards you mentioned, for equal & flat lands & grooves, then heat & twist.
Ну ты и нацарапал,начинающий оружейник. Самое главное теперь не взорваться.
I could not believe you crowned the most distorted part of the barrel.
You should have used that end for the chamber, not the crown as elastic deformation can return the metal to its original dimensions under pressure causing eccentricities in the muzzle that will damage accuracy.
Other than that and the use of gloves on a lathe, I think you did quite a good job.
Excellent job, and thanks for sharing
И стволы нарезает и в перчатках за токарном работает) ценный специалист
А где вы видели ключи шестигранники, чтобы они могли нарезать сталь? Любой ключ шестигранник, без проблем берёт напильник и надфиль.
Если бы он сделал Дорн из побидитовой напайки для резца, это ещё можно было бы поверить , что это дорн, который может нарезать резьбу в стальной трубке.
Нарезы неправильные.Широкие поля должны быть выбраны,а у него наоборот.
@@Salmo-e2oя тож думаеу что шестигранник меахкое он не может так зделат нарези
@@arturhovhannisyan3606 да это любому, кто имеет дело со слесарными и токарными работами, ясно как светлый день, дорн можно из обоймы подшипника изготовить, но твердую сталь, этот дорн не возьмёт и нет гарантии, что не расколется как стекло, а мягкое железо, нет смысла нарезать, даже на пневматику.
самый интересный вопрос - а где он взял готовые < стволы > такой длинны , и второй вопрос - а куда он собирается патрон вставлять
Buen desarrollo en el estriado de su cañón al menos una idea que muchas personas desconoce lo que sin trucos falta probar la precisión ahí es donde en realidad se obtiene el resultado de su trabajo 😊😊😊😊😊
That's really good rifling bro!
Thanks! Let's see the results.
@airsight Idol. pariho kayong magaling gumawa ng airgun. Idol ko kayong dalawa.😊
I would have made the rifling cutter bit longer to prevent any possibility of wedging sideways into the tunnel. While highly unlikely, you are using impacts to drive the bit through and just a little bit of torsional momentum could theoretically cause one blade edge to really dig in and ruin your barrel. I forget the length to width ratio of what you need but it's not a lot longer than what you have. Just a thought. I think it's great even as is.
@@TheDamnSpot 👍
This was my first time rifling a barrel, and I will still try many other methods
You have slightly more patience than I do and im here for it 😂
Hehe, let's see what projects I will do in the future. I am gonna try some more rifling techniques for sure.
leave the button stock longer,twist it using a spanner or a hex socket,cut off excess to suit length.
A more even twist should be accomplished as the force of the hand doing the twist is purely on twisting and not gripping and twisting.
Simmilar to making barley twists for ornamental steel work.
While pushing a button through a barrel i thought of using a couple of ball bearings ,but they might try to deflect and damage the cut lands and grooves,instead i would try a couple of 10mm sections of pushrod flat turned ends and polished to act as bearings as the main push rod exerts forward force they can aleviate the twisting resistans against the cutter and push rod,molybdenumdisulphide grease along with hypoid EP90 are what i would use since one is very slippery and the other is for gear mesh under extreme pressure(EP).
Molycoated bore with EP oil added to the rear as the cutter enters.
To get the oxide layer off try some pickling paste or blueaway,blueaway is for stainles exhaust headers to take heat banding oxide off for show or just to keep them shiny chrome like.sanding changes the dimmensional size,especially when 10ths or less of a mm matter.
Heat treating small parts using pliers to hold them acts as a heat sink,rather us some steel tig welding rods 0.8mm wrapped around the part ,you can twist a handle into the wire to get full 360 heating and not damage the pliers heat treating also.
That steel tube comes in 20mm OD,i got 16mm as the 20mm stuff had wrong ID sizes,the ID sizes were sold out,chromoly explosion proof EN19/4140 hydraulic tube.
Make a bottle jack attachment if you do this the hard tool might shatter leaving it jammed in the bore,the jack will give a far smoother cut and reusable cutter,drill rod is quite cheap,and 1-2 inch sections chamfered and lubed will as mentioned before act as bearings allowing a good smooth cut,hammering the rod mushrooms the rod also ruining them,plus the barrel crown gets mashed.
Mark Serbu of serbu guns did this with a hammer and a press both worked buy the hydraulic method worked best,a bottle jack can be retro fitted with a threaded collar and a steel tube ,just check out other hydraulic tools for this job they are really quite simple taken as the basic form.
A last note on crowns,counterbore the crown so it's reccessed in the barrel,BSA do/did this with as i know there air rifles so if the muzzle is dinged on a rock etc the crown is protected,1/2 inch depth is enough and will never need recrowning.
You have the most expensive tool needed ,the lathe,a cheap stick welder can have a mig spool gun fitted,gasless wire ,a decent mig will give great welds with gasless wire.
I'm not knocking you methods,i'm giving info to make the job easier or give a better finish using the cheapest methods.
You will need a welder of some sort to adapt a bottle jack ,most have a large nut fixture holding it together and you weld onto that,taking it apart first and remove all seals from the nut before welding,ofcourse.
Looked really good 👍
I never thought id need to try this.
I never knew that this is how you can do it!
Very innovative. Looking forward to use it in Pcp. 😀
Super cool! I really liked it!😃👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Please tell me can you use some hidraulic instead of hammering the rod? Is this way better or you just dont have that tool?
I dont have such a tool
@@pcpairgunschannel ok, thanks on answer
Had a .22 with a smooth bore barrell,,,power was magic and did not see any accuracy problems,,,smooth is cool dude ,?
Rifling gives better results
In the US a foam with a smooth bore barrel has to be 18" or longer, since it's considered a shotgun. So if you're building something shorter(like a pistol) you have to rifle it.
PURE GENIUS , THE PRODUCT AND THE MACHINIST ALSO !!!! IS THERE ANY WAY I COULD GET YOU TO MAKE ME A RIFLING BUTTON IN .50 AND .68 CAL FOR PAINTBALL AND LESS LETHAL MARKERS ?
Sorry, I cannot ship items
@@pcpairgunschannel THATS A NEW ONE FRIEND , MANY PEOPLE MAKE AND SELL MACHINED PARTS , IS IT ILLEGAL ?
THERE IS A LOT OF MONEY IN THE LESS LETHAL WORLD TO MAKE LIKE SPECIAL VALVES , BARRELS , DRESS UP PARTS , AMMO , END CAPS , TO MANY TO MENTION !
*عمل جيد لقد اتحفتنا بمعلومة جيدة كانت خافية علينا منذ زمن بعيد* #تحياتي 🌹
Is it not possible to hammer a drill piece into the barrel to rifle the barrel.
It might just shatter considering how hard and brittle drill bits are. It would also have way too much twist rate, which would hurt accuracy. A 40 grain .22 likes around 1:16" twist, which is why he barely had to twist the Allen key at all.
Wow, you are a genius
This is good education for SHTF sitfuations.
but what you wanna do with the barrel, use it as a straw?
Молодец! Я делаю кнопку из шарикоподшипника,потом на токарнике с помощью болгарки прорезаю нарезки.И да,лучше всего проталкивать получается мощной дрелью-перфоратором.Плюс смазка машинная не годится-лучше использовать олеиновую кислоту с литол-24.Удачи в хобби!
Спасибо! Очень интересно 😮
Yep Hammer drill. Or an Air tool
Проталкивать лучше гидравлическим прессом.
@@pcpairgunschannel И да, на али и правда можно купить дорны для нарезей. Я раньше искал по запросу "rfling button" и ничего не находил, но по запросу "helical push drill" они вполне находятся.
@@andrsivohin8167 Круто. Я тоже на токарнике кнопку делаю и на нём сразу накаткой делаю канавки, накатка прямозубая с небольшим уклоном и шагом от 1 до 1,5мм в зависимости сколько нужно нарезов. Смазка на основе серы, талька и коллоидного графита и желательно канал обрабатывать тиосульфатом, как то так.
Gloves and lathes are an unsafe combination...
In the end good and clean work but I wonder how much the grinding machine costs 13:16
It was a gift, but I think it's about 70$-80$
대단합니다. 만약 총열 내부에 강선이 없나면 어떤현상이 나올까요?
Nice job man!👌 What kind of steel was the tube?
It’s 40crmo
Some kind of chinese Carbon steel
Awesome technique!
This is a good result, I have tried it 🇮🇩🇮🇩
@@DewaSenapanIndonesia 👍👍
That was very impressive hope it tests well I have always been impressed with what a machinist can build I wish I had you skills if you lived near me in Louisiana USA I would enjoy being a friend to learn things the laws here are very favorable for hunters and sportsman but demoncracts are working hard to take that away I wish you well and if you ever want to move look this way hats off to you 👍
Hey, man! Maybe i'm a bit dumb to understand, but how is the bit you're hammering down the tube doing the riffling instead of just cutting straigh? How is it turning inside the tube?
Because it is twisted, it forcibly twists when pushed down
A bit like a screw but the principle is reversed, here hammering it forces it to twist around but with a screw rotating it forces it to pull in
Bravo ci voglio provare anch'io 💪💪🙋
To make the button, you can use a drill bit as well, it's usually made of well suited HSS steel and you just have to drive it trough the barrel twice to get the necessary grooves.
Yep, there are many more methods I plan trying
Ok brother i am waiting next part for test👍
Awesome guessing the steel tube and bars came from Alli express.. super tek brake cleaner spray cleans out oils super quick
And always wearing gloves on the lathe to ensure you're hands get ripped of😂
Much like the internet, this a series on tubes
Nice great work ole biddy
Big fan could I try out a raw barrel like this one?
tanks for the video super cool job !!
Glad you liked it!
Would it not be better to start with a 6 mm Allen wrench and grind it down to what you want ?
That would work and I did try it but I didn't achieve as good precision with it. It's about skill so if you can manage to do it and keep the sides consistent in size then you can do it.
Can you make inner barrel for airsoft with groove as well?
6.01mm or6.02 mm inner diameter?
@@christopherramirez9645 I dont think rifling works well for airsoft since the bullets are round
can't stop the signal..
Is it necessary the water to contain salt for the heat treatment to get the steel hardened?
If its not hardened the button will deform and not cut so well. You can also dip it in oil but you need to temper it so its not too brittle
@@pcpairgunschannel I asked you, if the water for the heat treatment is necessary to be salt water. Is it?
@@Mazarakis_Spyridon Yes, it won't work with just water.
Edit: it actually will work, but won't be nearly as effective.
@@pcpairgunschannel Thank you!
I admire your work, but a rifling button is just about 12$ ishhh so it's not practical to waste your time make all those fuzz? Furthermore you are not even sure how accurate the results would be? If it fails, you wasted time plus the tube you ruined. So why not buy the real thing?? It cost just less than 20 bucks
@@mrkalikutista8729 I would need more than just a rifling button. Commercial rifling buttons cannot be hammered and need tons of pressure, which will end up costing me a lot more than just 12$
@@pcpairgunschannel you're wrong you can do the same hammering with the cheap commercial one. Or use a bottle type car jack to push the rod instead of hammering it. Google hammer button, it's a good button, im using that one, stay away from those cheap chinese craps.
your mind is so limited
@pcpairgunschanneive hammered commercial buttons on ebay.. l
@@mrkalikutista8729 - Fun. You can also buy the stuff already finished.
- Unavailability due to local regulations.
How do you know how much twist your putting on the button?
@@joesashiify its not possible to manipulate it
You have to twist it eyeballing
If you have a one inch long button and you want a 1 : 12" twist, twist the Allen key 1/12". Or something like that haha I'm not a mathematician. I'm sure there's a formula, but you get the idea
De l’artisanat, belles rayures 👍
È venuta uno spettacolo bravo
Very Nice Job !
How do you calculate what is the best twist rate?
i don't know about what is the best twist rate, but 1:18 is a standard most 22 cal PCPs use. This is probably just a tiny bit higher than that, but not to the point where it would not function well.
@@pcpairgunschannel 1 in 18 that is interesting, I think Whitworths rifle was 1 in 20, whereas modern rifles are 1 in 7 to 1 in 12. Projectile weight makes a difference too.
@@grahamthebaronhesketh. yup.
This is mainly for air guns tho. They need A lower twist rate to avoid overstabilization.
I tried using another method to make a rifling button, but it didnt end well. Got 1:6 twist rate and very thin grooves. I will upload the video on that technique just to share it but i will try that method again and fix my mistakes
Really amazing. But why do you beat and knock over it after heating it?
because it was only 5.55mm in diameter, that's not enough for rifling. I increased the diameter by doing that, it ended up being 5.62mm
@@pcpairgunschannel 😁😁😁Great, I thought that was likely, but I wanted to make sure.....but did you know why I wanted an Arabic translation? So that I can understand and follow what you are saying. Greetings
@@pcpairgunschannel Весьма оригинально и главное просто. при наличии расширенного разнообразия оборудования есть возможность делать нарезы более технологичней и точнее. я нарезал нарезы спецрезцом изготовленным из шестиперьевой развертки, ленточка режущей части шлифовалась до необходимого размера и длина этой ленты оставлялась на 1.5мм.это и являлось шириной нарезного канала. станок токарный с автоматической подачей суппорта. есть и ускоренная подача, ствол зажимается в патроне. ставятся малые обороты, из ствола выходит приваренная оправка к резаку из развертки. она зажимается в резцодержатель. патрон вращается ничего не происходит и тут включается подача ускоренная вправо. равномерно вытягивает оправку с резцом . при этом выходит и стружка. так как заточка режет металл в стволе. происходит именно нарезка каналов. ваш метод конечно более простой и многим доступнее, но он продавливает каналы. свинцовая пуля мягкая и принимает размер ствола. и даже по вашему методу пуле легче идти по каналам продавленным, они ведь гладкие без всяких там мельчайших зазубрин. ваш метод считаю оптимальным для самодельщиков......удачи вам и желаю быть осторожным с законами.
@@ЕленаТурлова-п7ж 👍👍
man, you are the true hero!
👍😎👍
Nice video. Why do you put salt in your quenching water?
@@LuluBear974 cools down the Steel faster, making it harder
Oil also works
@pcpairgunschannel At sea level plain pure water boil at 100°C and works just fine. This is why I don't understand the salt part. At sea level, saturated sodium chlorine brine has a boiling point of 108.7°C, and contains 28.41% NaCl... that isn't a big difference enough to justify salt use. Moreover oil also works even though it boils between 200 and 300°C and the higher the quenching temperature the lesser the hardening but still is ok. Do you put your brine in the freezer or use ice cubes to lower brine temperature below 0°C ?
@@LuluBear974 you are right that pure water works too.
However its not about the boiling point only but also the thermal conductivity and the density. Salt water is denser and has better thermal conductivity
@@pcpairgunschannel 👍
so quality air gun with mechanism,only change barrel and have 22LR?Am i right?Can you give advice of some good cheap air gun?Thanx
😮woww its great work again idol.
Monitor my friend 👍 from Indonesia 💯👌
Gloves and machines dont mix together very well... Stay safe.
Good result 👍
Really good Works Bro. Gratulation. Best Regards from Germany.
Much appreciated!
How did you get the perfect twist in the rifling. ?
since the allen key is twisted slightly, just like a screw it twists itself in the barrel. I will still experiment many more rifling techniques and see what produces the best rifling
@@pcpairgunschannel Thank you.
Esse aquecimento que vc aplicou ai já fez com que ele perdesse a resistência.Em seguida teria que ser temperado novamente ok...
No way cool man id love to c this fire
cool work lad
thanks man
Amigo esta llave allen en realidad se deja templar para hacer el estriado ?
¿Cómo lo usarías para moletear?
Lo siento no habla español
When you hit, you bend the barrel, these "riflings" will not work well, on modern barrels the width of the rifling is higher than the width of the rifling field, in your case it is the other way around... the bullet moves along the rifling, not along the rifling fields, the rifling fields give it rotation, in your case it is the other way around... acute-angled rifling does not work for long, and there should be a lot of them
Its for an air gun so it works fine.
donde consiguió ese tubo para un 5.5 estimado.
AliExpress. Enlace en la descripción
can u use the lathe for 4140 steel?
Yeah, you can. Even on materials that are harder to cut like stainless steel it works fine, just as long as you use appropriate speeds and feeds and appropriate passes
@@pcpairgunschannel nice, i was looking for a machine with which i can mill the barrel from 4140 steel and rifle them with a button
I love it...can i have one for my pcp
Sorry, I cannot ship it
Excellent idea, thank you for sharing! : )
👍👍
bravooo, respectfulll from old bg.
Awesome stuff! One question, should it have a chamfer where the projectile leaves the barrel? I've never tried to make something of this sort, but was taught not to ruin the sharp edge on the end of the barrel of my 6.5x55 mm rifle.
Yes, it should be chamfered. It's called "barrel crowning", in the video I did that with high grit sandpaper and an 8mm steel ball, after chamfering the end with a drill bit. That might not sound very precise, but it actually leaves a very fine finish. Some rifle barrels might have different designs, others may have sharp precise non-chamfered ends while others have a deep chamfer. Search "barrel crowning" on Google and check the images, you'll see many different designs.
Also, in my case this will not be used for a firearm, but for a PCP air gun.
@@pcpairgunschannel ah, I see, cool! Awesome to learn new things!
Excelente trabajo de la estria del cañón creo que ahora le haces la recámara para el casquillo o bala y el percutor
Gloves make me uncomfortable
Yeah, while operating a lathe gloves should not be worn. I have quit that and won't be doing it again.
@@pcpairgunschannel 100% bad! very bad, not Cool to make other people recover your finger and keep on ice while the ER decides ??
Clean AF
❤❤❤magnifique
How did you inner diameter twist it?
Since the rifling button is twisted, just like a screw it will twist by force
I did this when i was like 12. It won't work. Your grooves are too narrow and the lands are too wide. You will simply have the bullet shear off bits of it in those narrow grooves. Also assuming your ID is correct and not oversized, those wide lands will create huge about of friction and deformation on the bullet. It has a high chance of blocking your barrel. The grooves have to be either the same as lands or bigger. (ChatGPT will surprisingly give you a good guidance). Either way better off left it smooth.
Also PLEASE lose the glooves when working on the lathe. Even this little thing with a couple HP spindle absolutely will take off your hand. (Source: Mill/Lathe machinist for 10 years)
Maybe for firearms it doesn’t have much effect but I am using it for an air gun.
@pcpairgunschannel same same thing. Rifling for an airgun has absolutely the same rules as for firearms. If the bullet is undersize you will have a lot of air escaping through grooves and they won't spin the bullet. If you make the bullet bigger you will have too much friction and still run a risk of the bullet shearing.
Well anyway now that you have a barrel grooved you can also use the smooth version to test if you actually got an improvement. Subscribed to see what the results are.
Where did you get the round bar from?
the tube? i left a link to buy in the description
Excelente👍 aporte
I really can't understand how it can twist on its own without having something attached that turns it, and in the end you bang it in, and I don't understand, even though it is SLIGHTLY twisted, how you can make the barrel rifled just by banging it in, it doesn't make sense for myself
The twist of the button forces it to twist around
It's the same as a screw into wood
What twist you made in that barrel ?
@@ЕгорСавицкий-й3щ it’s just eyeballed, no accurate maths. It still gave good accuracy, check my latest shorts video
Same method in the Philippines when they make airgun barrel.