It is very advantageous to know what you are getting into and how to dis-assemble before hand. Thank you and appreciate the education in such detail! Appreciate your time and effort!
Thank you for the comment. yes you are so right on this, I would sooner invest a bit of time cleaning and maintaining and have little to no trouble during the riding season. Plus, at least for me, I like to know how things work and understand how to get the longest life out of them I can. Thank you again. Dino
Tapping the clutch puller will almost always break a stuck primary loose. I wouldn’t recommend heat for this application, even worse case. Good job, hope you have a good season.
Thanks for the feedback Dave, great points, I agree, most clutches come off with gentle tapping, with tapping being the key word. Some do not realize that the puller is attached to the crank and they get a bit too zealous with their striking causing internal damage, ( I had a buddy tell me he was hitting on a puller with a sledge hammer once! 😬). I have had to heat a clutch only once, if I remember right, it was on an old 89 570 exciter. I kept the heat localized (with a small propane torch, not even MAP gas,) to the main tapered shaft area and alternated between heat, tapping and tightening until the clutch let go. I agree its not the best solution but I believe if you have no luck with any other option, and are careful, it can be completed safely with no damage to the parts. I hope you also have a great season, I cant wait to see more of your content and the beautiful Bruce County area . Dino
Thanks Dino!!! Do you think grease is the right lubricant for the pivot rods on the arms? Usually in a dirty environment low tack lubricants are preferred. I’m about to do mine, I think I might use gear oil.
When you dissemble the inside of the clutch do the specific roller arms need to go back in their specific spot? I didn't know if they were weighted. I just want to throw everything in the chemical cleaner but did know if I needed to mark each roller arm first.....like 1,2 and 3.
Thank you for the question, I don't believe they have to but I always put them in the same spot, I would use zip ties to mark them in the cleaner . Dino
Some people do, but the lube attracts belt dust and dirt which can add wear to the helix. The buttons are self lubricating and do not require lube. Thanks for the question, and again I'm not an expert just a guy who tinkers. Dino
These can sometimes be a pain to line up again, I think it's because they have very tight tolerances. I have had to fuss with more than one to get it to drop down, small turns and working at lining up the splines is all that has worked for me. I wish I could give you more advice but that's all I have ever done. Keep trying and I'm sure it will drop down. Dino
I think the socket manufactures are in league with the fastener manufactures LOL, the only thing 12 point are really an advantage for is square headed bolts.
Dino, thanks for the great video. I have a question though. The furthest outside part of the clutch has a black rubber/plastic part with the plumes on it. With mine, the rubber part comes completely off. Could that create a problem?
Thank you so much for the comment and great question. I am assuming this is a different make or model of clutch? All manufactures and models of clutch are a little different and dismantle differently, most likely it is fine as long as nothing looks broken or damaged. I hope this helps, Dino
I’m pretty sure it’s the same clutch, a TRA3. Nothing looks broken but I’ve never seen this type of couch dome apart. Also I tried the strap method to hold the clutch but it didn’t work. The bolt would move and the cylinder would go around even when the clutch itself stayed in place. The outside black part would move with the cylinder. Strange, I know. I had to use the “rope in the plug opening to get the clutch off.
Hmm, that does not sound right to me. the ones I have worked on the unit is essentially one piece. the black plate is fastened on with one way bolts if I remember correctly. You may have a damaged clutch, perhaps those bolts have sheared off? Dino
The one way bolts don’t actually touch the black pice but go through it. The 8 rivets closer to the center MIGHT actually attach the black piece but the surface on the other side o the rivets is very smooth and show no signs of welding. I’ll go to my dealer mechanic an let you know what he says.
@@tommenhansen thank you for the information. I re read the skidoo service manual just now as I always want to pass on the best information. Although replacement every 5000km is perhaps a good idea (I like to surpass service intervals myself as it's a good practice) the manual does not indicate this but rather to replace when worn. As the clutches on this particular sled seemed to be in very good condition and the bushings were within spec and not showing signs of wear on the Teflon I made the decision not to change them and save my friend some money. Again, changing them out is not a bad idea and I would certainly not tell someone not to do so, at the same time if they are in spec I think they are fine to leave. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the comments they are much appreciated. Dono
I've got a better idea.... Why don't you just purchase the correct tools supplied by BRP to begin with ? You're going through way too much complexity than most people want to even consider. This is supposed to be a fun event not a torturous endeavor.
Myself i actually appreciate these kinda tricks... i have been in situtations i have to make repairs out in forest and for myself it would take weeks to get right tools For job if dont already have them! But always right tools is way to go
It is very advantageous to know what you are getting into and how to dis-assemble before hand. Thank you and appreciate the education in such detail! Appreciate your time and effort!
You do a REALLY good job with your vid's, so well spoken.
Thank you for the complement, I try my best. I'm glad you enjoy the content.
Dino
fantastic video! Thank you
I subbed because your explanation of techniques snd tricks are not rushed. Good job.
Thank you, it's not for everyone but this is how I like making my content, I'm glad you enjoy it.
Dino
Great video! Thanks for the info, the strap holding the primary worked perfectly. Everything else was spot on and well described.
Great work. I'm about to do this when the season ends. I liked that you used brass and steelwool. Just cleaning it will prolong its life.
Thank you for the comment. yes you are so right on this, I would sooner invest a bit of time cleaning and maintaining and have little to no trouble during the riding season. Plus, at least for me, I like to know how things work and understand how to get the longest life out of them I can.
Thank you again.
Dino
Yo! this is a great instructional video. Thanks for the good breakdown.
Glad you enjoyed it and found it usefull. Thank you for the comment.
Dino
Great video, thanks!
Awesome thorough video.
Great job explaining the job.
Tapping the clutch puller will almost always break a stuck primary loose. I wouldn’t recommend heat for this application, even worse case. Good job, hope you have a good season.
Thanks for the feedback Dave, great points, I agree, most clutches come off with gentle tapping, with tapping being the key word. Some do not realize that the puller is attached to the crank and they get a bit too zealous with their striking causing internal damage, ( I had a buddy tell me he was hitting on a puller with a sledge hammer once! 😬). I have had to heat a clutch only once, if I remember right, it was on an old 89 570 exciter. I kept the heat localized (with a small propane torch, not even MAP gas,) to the main tapered shaft area and alternated between heat, tapping and tightening until the clutch let go. I agree its not the best solution but I believe if you have no luck with any other option, and are careful, it can be completed safely with no damage to the parts.
I hope you also have a great season, I cant wait to see more of your content and the beautiful Bruce County area .
Dino
Very nice video I enjoyed watching your video thanks 😊
Thank you too, and thank you for the comment 😉
Dino
Thanks Dino!!! Do you think grease is the right lubricant for the pivot rods on the arms? Usually in a dirty environment low tack lubricants are preferred. I’m about to do mine, I think I might use gear oil.
Anytime 🙂
When you dissemble the inside of the clutch do the specific roller arms need to go back in their specific spot? I didn't know if they were weighted. I just want to throw everything in the chemical cleaner but did know if I needed to mark each roller arm first.....like 1,2 and 3.
Thank you for the question, I don't believe they have to but I always put them in the same spot, I would use zip ties to mark them in the cleaner .
Dino
Why do you not want a lubricant on the button sliding surface.
Some people do, but the lube attracts belt dust and dirt which can add wear to the helix. The buttons are self lubricating and do not require lube.
Thanks for the question, and again I'm not an expert just a guy who tinkers.
Dino
I am having a hard time getting the splines to line up so the inner and outer sheaves mesh together. Any tricks?
These can sometimes be a pain to line up again, I think it's because they have very tight tolerances. I have had to fuss with more than one to get it to drop down, small turns and working at lining up the splines is all that has worked for me. I wish I could give you more advice but that's all I have ever done. Keep trying and I'm sure it will drop down.
Dino
Why 12 point sockets even exist is beyond me 🤷
12 point box end wrench, sure 👍
I think the socket manufactures are in league with the fastener manufactures LOL, the only thing 12 point are really an advantage for is square headed bolts.
@@DinosTinkerShed or in restricted areas when you can't get a Rachet in there
Dino, thanks for the great video. I have a question though. The furthest outside part of the clutch has a black rubber/plastic part with the plumes on it. With mine, the rubber part comes completely off. Could that create a problem?
Thank you so much for the comment and great question. I am assuming this is a different make or model of clutch? All manufactures and models of clutch are a little different and dismantle differently, most likely it is fine as long as nothing looks broken or damaged.
I hope this helps, Dino
I’m pretty sure it’s the same clutch, a TRA3. Nothing looks broken but I’ve never seen this type of couch dome apart. Also I tried the strap method to hold the clutch but it didn’t work. The bolt would move and the cylinder would go around even when the clutch itself stayed in place. The outside black part would move with the cylinder. Strange, I know. I had to use the “rope in the plug opening to get the clutch off.
Hmm, that does not sound right to me. the ones I have worked on the unit is essentially one piece. the black plate is fastened on with one way bolts if I remember correctly. You may have a damaged clutch, perhaps those bolts have sheared off?
Dino
The one way bolts don’t actually touch the black pice but go through it. The 8 rivets closer to the center MIGHT actually attach the black piece but the surface on the other side o the rivets is very smooth and show no signs of welding. I’ll go to my dealer mechanic an let you know what he says.
Thank would be great, I would love to know the answer.
Dino
you didnt change the bushings
Thank you for the comment, you are correct, I measured them and they were in spec, so I chose to leave them as they were.
Thanks again
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed they should be changed atleast every 5000km
@@tommenhansen thank you for the information. I re read the skidoo service manual just now as I always want to pass on the best information. Although replacement every 5000km is perhaps a good idea (I like to surpass service intervals myself as it's a good practice) the manual does not indicate this but rather to replace when worn. As the clutches on this particular sled seemed to be in very good condition and the bushings were within spec and not showing signs of wear on the Teflon I made the decision not to change them and save my friend some money.
Again, changing them out is not a bad idea and I would certainly not tell someone not to do so, at the same time if they are in spec I think they are fine to leave. Just my thoughts.
Thanks for the comments they are much appreciated.
Dono
dont use an impact gun on a pressed together crank.
100%. Would be interesting to know what it takes to move them.
The little counterweight in that m12 anvil certainly isnt enough.
I've got a better idea.... Why don't you just purchase the correct tools supplied by BRP to begin with ? You're going through way too much complexity than most people want to even consider.
This is supposed to be a fun event not a torturous endeavor.
Myself i actually appreciate these kinda tricks... i have been in situtations i have to make repairs out in forest and for myself it would take weeks to get right tools For job if dont already have them! But always right tools is way to go
Don’t listen to this clown. Wonderful video!