Hands down one of the most informative AND well produced videos I've watched in a LONG time. Thank you for the clear explanation! Time to service the secondary on my Skidoo Grand Touring 380F 2002 :D
I appreciate the detail and timely manner to explain exactly the procedure. I have worked on cars, boats, motorcycles, and I just purchased my first snowmobile and your video is extremely helpful. Thanks for your time and effort to detail!
Thank you for the comment, I'm glad you enjoy it. I really do need to find a sled project at some point, I am really holding gout to find a nice 1978/79 TX340 some day, that sled hold some real meaning to me. But try to find one that is not completely destroyed or at a price that is out of my league, its hard.
I just got a 04 mxz 800 this year and am about to start going through it. Im good at wrenching but don't know very much about snowmobiles. I'm binge watching your videos! Very informative and will save me a ton of time not just sitting there scratching my head.
Excellent video, as usual. As I commented before, I have the exact same Enduro 2018 900 ACE and I'm looking forward to tinkering with it this spring thanks to your videos. Two questions though: you often refer to what the "manual" says - can you give me a reference as to where I can get/buy said manual for my machine. I've searched everywhere on the web and can't seem to find it. Also, can you tell me where you got the clutch compressor. Sorry for all the questions, but I like to have the proper tools when tinkering around. Thank you for your assistance
So glad you enjoyed the video. The clutch compressor that I have cam in a kit from Royal Distributing, but I have made a homemade one before that worked just as well. The kit comes with a clutch holding tool for the newer clutch your Enduro has. I actually do not have a manual for my 2018, but the REV manual I found online for free as a PDF, I believe I just did a search for it and it turned up. I've had that one for a number of years and cant remember exactly where I found it. Dino
It's all very much voodoo to me... Lol. But you cleared up a lot of unknowns. You make it so anyone would gain the confidence to tackle this procedure. Well done. Question: does all the engine torque get transmitted from clutch to clutch thru just the side edges of the belt? Not the wide faces, such as a typical serpentine belt?? 🤷
Thanks for the comment and question Eric. Ya the sides of the belt carry all the torque, the belts have very wide bearing surfaces due to the tappers and they do not last nearly as long as your typical serpentine belt. Of course your water pump does not really move 100 to 200 HP the way a sled does from the output shaft to the ground lol. Thanks again Dino
Hey Dino. I have a question on the driven clutch. Is there any certain way the helix should line up with the shelve. Do ya need to pre load it or anything. I don’t see how ya could. Thx
That is a great question, on the rer clutch there is no need to preload like older clutches. I do not beli e there is any alignment marks on the helix either.
Great video! Quick question I’ve went from a aftermarket belt back to a OEM. Now I’ve Installed my new belt, but even thought I’m at 0 on my secondary the belt is too tight and too hight, causing the snowmobile to go forward by itself. Any help would be appreciated.
Oh that is not right, again I am not an expert or a mechanic but I can let you know what I would look at first: 1. I would first check the cross fit on the old aftermarket belt to see if it was intended for your sled, if it was not it may indicate an issue from a past owner who tried to fix an issue with a longer belt. 2. Double check the belt you got from BRP is the right one, I understand that some of the belt numbers changed and all technicians can make mistakes. 3. I would check both sides of the Nuun/ tunnel, (behind the clutches and the exhaust and insure that the tunnel to ensure it is not bent. A bent tunnel, especially behind the clutches can cause real issue with both clutch spacing and alignment 4. I would make sure the clutches are both clean, re assembled correctly and are working correctly. If the shives do not cycle their full range this could cause the belt to sit to high. Again these are just the first things I would check and may not be the issue but is a start. I hope this helps, please let me know how you make out. Dino
I believe I found my problem. The three bolts on the ajuster appeared to be cut. So I got three new ones which were a few millimeters longer. Now I have play and on my new belt I’m set approximately 3 to get the perfect deflection. (Gives me a little play) I don’t know why someone would of cut them possibly to use an other type of belt that wasn’t made for the snowmobile.
I have a 1999 Ski-Doo Summit 670 that I am trying to take apart to clean. I used this method, but my secondary clutch doesn't have half moon parts. It has a C-clip that I had to remove with Snap ring pliers. I compressed the Helix then removed the C-clip and then a washer behind it. I decompressed the Helix but it stays in the clutch. It makes me think its really dirty or rusted inside so it won't decompress. I'm I doing something wrong? This is one of the old clutches where you have to put the tool in the front of the clutch to expand the clutch to remove the belt. Thoughts?
Thank you for the question, I always point out I am not a mechanic but will give my thoughts. I have had a few secondary clutches that the helix would not come out freely, in both cases they were very dirty or the aluminum had oxidized and created too tight a fit. if it is just dirty, a thorough cleaning should make it work well again. if it is too badly oxidized you may need a new helix and may want to look at the bushings as well. I hope this helps. Dino
Hands down one of the most informative AND well produced videos I've watched in a LONG time.
Thank you for the clear explanation! Time to service the secondary on my Skidoo Grand Touring 380F 2002 :D
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you for the comment
Dino
I appreciate the detail and timely manner to explain exactly the procedure. I have worked on cars, boats, motorcycles, and I just purchased my first snowmobile and your video is extremely helpful. Thanks for your time and effort to detail!
I am glad you enjoy the content, I need to get my butt in gear and produce some sled content soon.
Thank you for your feedback
Dino
I love how in depth you go. Don't get that on a lot of videos anymore. I would love to see some more older snowmobile content!
Thank you for the comment, I'm glad you enjoy it. I really do need to find a sled project at some point, I am really holding gout to find a nice 1978/79 TX340 some day, that sled hold some real meaning to me. But try to find one that is not completely destroyed or at a price that is out of my league, its hard.
Very clear video and explanation Dino. Useful information that I think a DIY person can follow.
Thank you Mal, glad you enjoyed it.
Dino
Great video! Very well broken down. Teach me more!
Glad you enjoyed it, more to come.
Dino
Very descriptive video. If i was doing this for the first time I would be so happy
Glad you enjoyed it.
Dino
I just got a 04 mxz 800 this year and am about to start going through it. Im good at wrenching but don't know very much about snowmobiles. I'm binge watching your videos! Very informative and will save me a ton of time not just sitting there scratching my head.
Glad you find the content helpful
Dino
Going through my 07 xrs ski-doo 800 ho ptek secondary clutch.
Wondering if I need to me aware of balancing marks like I do on the primary?
Thanks!
Just got an 03 and this is precisely what I needed to know how to do it, i used some wood also. ;)
Primary vid, here I come.
Glad you found the video useful, have fun on your new to you sled.
Dino
Very interesting. Great video
Great job Dino ! Your a wealth of information . Thx
I appreciate that!
Dino
Thank you sir! Very well done.
Nice video keep them coming looking forward to your next post. Cheese
Excellent Dino, how about doing a video telling us a bit about your dog ? Ours are all rescues and I had a 3 legged pup.
I could do that, thank you for the suggestion.
Dino
Cheers
Excellent video, as usual. As I commented before, I have the exact same Enduro 2018 900 ACE and I'm looking forward to tinkering with it this spring thanks to your videos. Two questions though: you often refer to what the "manual" says - can you give me a reference as to where I can get/buy said manual for my machine. I've searched everywhere on the web and can't seem to find it. Also, can you tell me where you got the clutch compressor. Sorry for all the questions, but I like to have the proper tools when tinkering around. Thank you for your assistance
So glad you enjoyed the video. The clutch compressor that I have cam in a kit from Royal Distributing, but I have made a homemade one before that worked just as well. The kit comes with a clutch holding tool for the newer clutch your Enduro has. I actually do not have a manual for my 2018, but the REV manual I found online for free as a PDF, I believe I just did a search for it and it turned up. I've had that one for a number of years and cant remember exactly where I found it.
Dino
@@steigre thank you for the post
@@DinosTinkerShed
Wondering if I need to be worried about aligning balance points on my rev secondary clutch as I do with a primary clutch?
Thanks!
Sorry I did the opposite of what you said. I grabbed a cold drink🍺😆. Good video!
It's all very much voodoo to me... Lol. But you cleared up a lot of unknowns. You make it so anyone would gain the confidence to tackle this procedure. Well done.
Question: does all the engine torque get transmitted from clutch to clutch thru just the side edges of the belt? Not the wide faces, such as a typical serpentine belt?? 🤷
Thanks for the comment and question Eric. Ya the sides of the belt carry all the torque, the belts have very wide bearing surfaces due to the tappers and they do not last nearly as long as your typical serpentine belt. Of course your water pump does not really move 100 to 200 HP the way a sled does from the output shaft to the ground lol.
Thanks again
Dino
Hey Dino. I have a question on the driven clutch. Is there any certain way the helix should line up with the shelve. Do ya need to pre load it or anything. I don’t see how ya could. Thx
That is a great question, on the rer clutch there is no need to preload like older clutches. I do not beli e there is any alignment marks on the helix either.
Great video! Quick question I’ve went from a aftermarket belt back to a OEM. Now I’ve Installed my new belt, but even thought I’m at 0 on my secondary the belt is too tight and too hight, causing the snowmobile to go forward by itself.
Any help would be appreciated.
Oh that is not right, again I am not an expert or a mechanic but I can let you know what I would look at first:
1. I would first check the cross fit on the old aftermarket belt to see if it was intended for your sled, if it was not it may indicate an issue from a past owner who tried to fix an issue with a longer belt.
2. Double check the belt you got from BRP is the right one, I understand that some of the belt numbers changed and all technicians can make mistakes.
3. I would check both sides of the Nuun/ tunnel, (behind the clutches and the exhaust and insure that the tunnel to ensure it is not bent. A bent tunnel, especially behind the clutches can cause real issue with both clutch spacing and alignment
4. I would make sure the clutches are both clean, re assembled correctly and are working correctly. If the shives do not cycle their full range this could cause the belt to sit to high.
Again these are just the first things I would check and may not be the issue but is a start.
I hope this helps, please let me know how you make out.
Dino
I believe I found my problem. The three bolts on the ajuster appeared to be cut. So I got three new ones which were a few millimeters longer. Now I have play and on my new belt I’m set approximately 3 to get the perfect deflection. (Gives me a little play) I don’t know why someone would of cut them possibly to use an other type of belt that wasn’t made for the snowmobile.
Thanks for the update and I'm glad it worked out. I learned something new thank you.
Dino
I have a 1999 Ski-Doo Summit 670 that I am trying to take apart to clean. I used this method, but my secondary clutch doesn't have half moon parts. It has a C-clip that I had to remove with Snap ring pliers. I compressed the Helix then removed the C-clip and then a washer behind it. I decompressed the Helix but it stays in the clutch. It makes me think its really dirty or rusted inside so it won't decompress. I'm I doing something wrong? This is one of the old clutches where you have to put the tool in the front of the clutch to expand the clutch to remove the belt. Thoughts?
Thank you for the question, I always point out I am not a mechanic but will give my thoughts. I have had a few secondary clutches that the helix would not come out freely, in both cases they were very dirty or the aluminum had oxidized and created too tight a fit. if it is just dirty, a thorough cleaning should make it work well again. if it is too badly oxidized you may need a new helix and may want to look at the bushings as well.
I hope this helps.
Dino