I have a similar problem with my 2014 Xterra. I've never seen a car with that much corrosion before also. I couldn't get that nut, that secures the battery clamp to the fusible link assembly, removed without breaking the assembly. I had to replace the entire assembly and had to order it because I couldn't find one locally. By the way, what is that plastic under the clamp for? There's nothing that it would short to. Anyway, I replaced that cheap and fragile clamp with a standard "old style" battery clamp that has a mounting bolt like the original clamp has but I had to slightly enlarge the hole on the fusible link assembly to make it fit. It appears to be a 9mm hole but the vertical bolt on the new clamp was 3/8". The cable that attaches directly to this stud bolt has to be enlarged or replaced also. I thoroughly "greased" the clamp with conductive battery anti-corrosion paste and hopefully I'll never see that kind of corrosion again. Anyway, this is a poor design. I've never seen such a fusible link assembly like this on an American car.
Hey man if you don’t mind I have a question. 2014 pathfinder. 250 amp fuse keeps blowing only when starting car. Replaced starter, negative battery cable and the car started. THEN the serpentine belt ripped into shreds. Turns out the alternator pulley is seized and now the fuse blows again when trying to start. So new starter and new neg cable worked. Then that happened. What’s your opinion?
Is there a way you can put your own fuses on instead if the fusible link because I’m trying to run a 10,000 sound system and I’m wondering if I will blow this every time with a 390 amp alternator or can I still use it but still need fuses please help
Will this cause my car not to start? My car is dead in the water with a flashing key symbol on the dash. I checked all fuses, changed key fob batteries and nothing
Any tips on getting that bolt off? I’m having the same issue with my 09 Infiniti G37. Really don’t want to have to replace the entire fuse. I already have the Terminal Assy C replacement but I just cannot remove that bolt
Chandler man, off camera, I tried everything to save her some money. I used pricks, impacts, foaming battery acid cleaner, penetrating oil, coke, vise grips, hammers, chisels, and even spit. You probably won’t get it off. You will probably have to replace the fusible link, terminal assy C and the bolt for it.
z66ka after battling that thing for 2 days I got it off about an hour after I left this comment lol. Drenched it with WD-40 and after 8 good tries it budged and came off. All it cost me was a single bloody knuckle. Used a socket wrench and a towel for grip 😂😂. Sad thing is my car is still having the same issue. It starts and cuts off 30 seconds later
@@mustbeice Thanks for the tip. I have a 08 Altima and the metal loop of the terminal that goes around the battery post is barely hanging in there on one side. The bolt won't budge and because the metal ring is broken I can't even put real pressure on it. The cable and the fuseable link are just hanging there and there's no way to get leverage. What a crappy design. Why? Why? Why? Looks like I'll have to replace the entire thing. Congrats on finally getting yours fixed.
FWIW I replaced mine with a marine type from O Reilly's. It requires drilling the hole a little bigger and getting a nut instead of the wing nut that it comes with but it is much better setup and will last longer. P/N: SK7203
I forgot to mention that the cable connector has to be enlarged also (or replaced if you have a compression crimp tool) or it won't fit onto the bolt stud.
forgot to mention that if only one of the fuses on that block fail then you have to replace the entire block because they dont just sell replacement fuses for it and on top of that even if they did there is no way to access them to remove them and change them out. this battery connector design is the worst one i have ever seen in my life its pretty much a money grab by nissan
You are correct look, flawed design, at 99-07.5 chevy trucks with melted washer bottles and sprayer motors. Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the bell icon.
I couldn't get a fusible link assembly locally and had to order it. I couldn't get one from Amazon for a couple of months so I ended up ordering one from an online Nissan parts dealer. Cost about $45 (part+shipping+tax) but still had to wait a week. Good thing I have more than one vehicle.
I hate nissan for putting a stupid battery fuse on these types of cars makes no dam sense why not put a regular battery terminals like other cars I HATE NISSAN never again would I buy another Nissan
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a similar problem with my 2014 Xterra. I've never seen a car with that much corrosion before also. I couldn't get that nut, that secures the battery clamp to the fusible link assembly, removed without breaking the assembly. I had to replace the entire assembly and had to order it because I couldn't find one locally. By the way, what is that plastic under the clamp for? There's nothing that it would short to. Anyway, I replaced that cheap and fragile clamp with a standard "old style" battery clamp that has a mounting bolt like the original clamp has but I had to slightly enlarge the hole on the fusible link assembly to make it fit. It appears to be a 9mm hole but the vertical bolt on the new clamp was 3/8". The cable that attaches directly to this stud bolt has to be enlarged or replaced also. I thoroughly "greased" the clamp with conductive battery anti-corrosion paste and hopefully I'll never see that kind of corrosion again. Anyway, this is a poor design. I've never seen such a fusible link assembly like this on an American car.
Hey man if you don’t mind I have a question. 2014 pathfinder. 250 amp fuse keeps blowing only when starting car. Replaced starter, negative battery cable and the car started. THEN the serpentine belt ripped into shreds. Turns out the alternator pulley is seized and now the fuse blows again when trying to start. So new starter and new neg cable worked. Then that happened. What’s your opinion?
I would get the alternator tested, it could be sending too much voltage and causing it to blow.
Is there a way you can put your own fuses on instead if the fusible link because I’m trying to run a 10,000 sound system and I’m wondering if I will blow this every time with a 390 amp alternator or can I still use it but still need fuses please help
Honestly, not sure. Better question for a sound shop, I haven’t done a ton of audio stuff.
Will this cause my car not to start? My car is dead in the water with a flashing key symbol on the dash. I checked all fuses, changed key fob batteries and nothing
Have you found out anything? My car is doing the same thing
Will it stopped the battery from getting its charge
Sorry for the late reply, but yes, it will interfere with the battery charging.
Great video
Any tips on getting that bolt off? I’m having the same issue with my 09 Infiniti G37. Really don’t want to have to replace the entire fuse. I already have the Terminal Assy C replacement but I just cannot remove that bolt
Chandler man, off camera, I tried everything to save her some money. I used pricks, impacts, foaming battery acid cleaner, penetrating oil, coke, vise grips, hammers, chisels, and even spit. You probably won’t get it off. You will probably have to replace the fusible link, terminal assy C and the bolt for it.
z66ka after battling that thing for 2 days I got it off about an hour after I left this comment lol. Drenched it with WD-40 and after 8 good tries it budged and came off. All it cost me was a single bloody knuckle. Used a socket wrench and a towel for grip 😂😂. Sad thing is my car is still having the same issue. It starts and cuts off 30 seconds later
Chandler glad you got it off, sorry you are still having issues. Hopefully, you get it fixed soon.
@@mustbeice
Thanks for the tip. I have a 08 Altima and the metal loop of the terminal that goes around the battery post is barely hanging in there on one side. The bolt won't budge and because the metal ring is broken I can't even put real pressure on it. The cable and the fuseable link are just hanging there and there's no way to get leverage. What a crappy design. Why? Why? Why? Looks like I'll have to replace the entire thing. Congrats on finally getting yours fixed.
Anyone able to successfully remove the bolt that secure fusable link to terminal?
Most people are unable to get the bolt off.
Part No.: B4353-WL000
NUT should be the part number for the 12 mm nut. Replaced all 3 on mine.
Thanks for the info bro, sure it will help other people.
Hey there can you remember how much fuse part cost ty
Like 60 bucks.
LOL! Cannot believe 23K people watched this 'nothing' - just plain simple 'nothing at all'. LOLOL!!!
It is a video talking about the part and the failure it experienced. Some people find that interesting.
How to remove the fuse to the right of the positive terminal bolt?
Normally you unbolt, but this one is frozen on.
My car dies when I put it in drive ! Could this be the problem . ?
Possibility, this failure causes all kinds of weird issues.
Imma look into that ! Thank you for the reply
FWIW I replaced mine with a marine type from O Reilly's. It requires drilling the hole a little bigger and getting a nut instead of the wing nut that it comes with but it is much better setup and will last longer. P/N: SK7203
I did the same thing and threw in a galvanized lockwasher also.
I forgot to mention that the cable connector has to be enlarged also (or replaced if you have a compression crimp tool) or it won't fit onto the bolt stud.
forgot to mention that if only one of the fuses on that block fail then you have to replace the entire block because they dont just sell replacement fuses for it and on top of that even if they did there is no way to access them to remove them and change them out. this battery connector design is the worst one i have ever seen in my life its pretty much a money grab by nissan
Yeah, valid points on what I forgot. It is a pretty awful design. Idk what Nissan thought with it. Hoped the video helped you.
This piece of shit fusible connector left me stranded in the middle of nowhere too many times, such a dumb design
Buddy, I feel your hate lol, I never made it work one morning because of it. I keep a spare in the tool box now, but it is an stupid design.
Design is flawed due to battery sweating and corrosion. Replaced entire component. Cheap part. OEM was 55$. 1hr job.
You are correct look, flawed design, at 99-07.5 chevy trucks with melted washer bottles and sprayer motors. Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit the bell icon.
Wer did u buy yours
I couldn't get a fusible link assembly locally and had to order it. I couldn't get one from Amazon for a couple of months so I ended up ordering one from an online Nissan parts dealer. Cost about $45 (part+shipping+tax) but still had to wait a week. Good thing I have more than one vehicle.
I hate nissan for putting a stupid battery fuse on these types of cars makes no dam sense why not put a regular battery terminals like other cars I HATE NISSAN never again would I buy another Nissan
I would agree with you, the design is pretty bad. I love Nissan, but their designs are questionable at times.
same thing happen to me build them cheap sell them high