Something is wrong with this long-range rifle, What do you think it is? @Guidedhunts #longrangehunting #guidedhunts #guided #longrangeshooting #longrangeshot #wyoming #wyomingguide
I would try a different scope just to rule that out but I’d bet the chamber is cut just as crooked as the muzzle threads were. Have your gunsmith remove the barrel and chuck it up on a lathe and check for concentricity in the chamber/throat area.
I bought a Savage .223 model 12 years ago, bore was so crooked from the factory (internally bent/crooked) that you could bore sight it at 100 yards and the bullet would hit the ground at 25 yards. Shooting off a bench. They replaced the barrel and it was fine after that. But they have terrible QC.
I have a friend that has a Savage 338 Lapua. It had a TERRIBLE wandering zero. He had a cheap scope, cheap rings, and a cheap rail. TURNS OUT CHEAP AND 338 LAPUA MAGNUM DON'T MIX 😆 He put a $1,000 scope on it, swapped out the old rail for a name brand one, and specific rings rated to handle 338 Lapua... Wouldn't you know it... Shoots great.
I bought a 6.5 Savage. I found that the plastic stock would touch the barrel differently as I changed my hold on the forestock. I replaced the stock with a custom wood stock and free floated the barrel. You might find this a huge improvement.
I'm not even gonna shoot my new rifle with that plastic crap stock they're all using these days. I ordered a custom laminated wood thumb hole stock the day my rifle came in. It should come in by Monday and Tuesday will be the 1st day I try her out
@@mikemchugh949I have this same rifle in the same caliber. These HS stocks are excellent because they contain an almost full length aluminum bed. HS makes good stocks and they sell to different rifle manufacturers for their target rifles. I also love my pepper laminated wood stocks on my Rem700 300 RUM, Savage ML-11 and Savage A17 semi-target in 17 HMR.
Well, around 18 months ago, I purchased a Savage 110 Tactical in 308W. I went through the clean-up of the bore of the barrel and then completed the range shooting back home. I cleaned up the bore, and then I bore scoped; what a mess chattering the whole length of the bore; the barrel was replaced with a Criterion barrel match-grade. CHECK YOUR BORE SAVAGE RIFLES. It cost me $785.00. The replacement barrel from Criterion is a Pre-fit barrel that cost me $325 for a 22" barrel; I installed the barrel myself, and I also purchased all the needed tools, the go/no-go gauges, and I mean I bought everything costing me over $1035.
@@NoWr2Run, I have other Savage rifles I'm thinking changing the barrels on the other two rifle, take a 30-06, and put a 308W barrel 25/26," an old hunting rifle. My reason to buy everything to change out barrels.
I purchased a Savage 110 Tactical in 6.5 CM a few years back but my son in law had a Savage FCP in .308. We compared them & it was a sight how much better the quality of my SIL's older rifle is from my rifle which was only about 8-9 years younger than his .308. I also have a Savage Model 12 VLP in .223 1:7 twist from back in the 1990's & it's quality was superb compared to my 110 Tactical. I use to be a super fan of Savage but now not so much. Their quality control is definitely NOT up to what it used to be.
1. Make sure your action screws are torqued correctly. 2. Make sure you dont have any obstruction under the action so that you have good contact between the action and the stock. 3. Make sure your barrel is completely free floated from the barrel nut forward. 4. Go over your scope and base torque. 5. Try shooting it out of the lead sled, sometimes rifles require that they are free to recoil especially with this larger magnum rifles. 6. And if it still doesn't shoot you might just need to make sure your barrel nut is torqued correctly and that you have good head spacing so your bullet doesn't have to jump so far before it hits the lands of your barrel when you fire.
Number three was the first thing that came to mind after checking the scope, that thing being inconsistent like that seems to be a harmonics issue, especially when it shows capabilities of putting slugs in the same hole.
Oh, I forgot to mention in my last comment JUNK THE LEAD SLED! I have yet to see a rifle that would not shoot better off of the led slug (not a type-0) than on.
With all of the mill work and thread cutting, make sure you have a nice crown cut and all the lands terminate the same. Or just have it re-crowned and polished.
As most have said do one thing at a time. First get rid of the lead sled and put it on some bags without the bipod and shoot the same Hornady box ammo. Dont adjust the scope at all. Second as you has stated check everything for tightness. Before shooting again I would give it a good cleaning and replace the scope with a known proven scope even if your just borrowing it from another rifle. No need to buy another one at this point. Even if its a low powered or better a fixed power scope for testing. then reshoot. If its still bad and all over the place. Pull the gun out of the stock and see if there is anything obvious odd wear marks, is it bedded, is there something that might have slipped under the stock is it setting in the stock correctly. The gun is second hand. Put back together with a torque wrench. Look up the correct specs for the torque. If it still shoot like a shotgun then I would take it to a gunsmith for options.
QC is an issue at Savage. I purchased 2 Identical Savage 110’s in 708 that both have heinous chatter marks in the bore… the bore almost looks like it’s internally threaded. So they either didn’t inspect the bore at all… or did, and let it out the door anyways. Every savage I own has very crude machining marks at least somewhere. The actions are clunky. I would never purchase a savage without being able to first inspect the bore with a borescope… and only if the price was very low. I’m not saying they are all bad… but the truth is… a percentage of them are getting past their loose QC. It is what it is. I like their accutrigger though… they definitely got that right… and the accufit stock is decent-ish. When I see so many Savage rifles on the market that are only a hundred bucks less than a Tikka T3x, I am left a bit baffled. A rifle is a lifetime purchase… if you can, it is better to be patient, save a couple hundred bucks more and get a rifle with a reputation of quality… Tikkas and Brownings for example. Cheers!
@@tylervolentine1286 all savage rifle barrels are made that way, always and forever....u have to spend money for something good.....your not getting a Brux, Bartlein, or Criterion barrel when u buy a savage...u have fork out the cash for a good barrel...Criterion barrels are the best buy for the money, unless u go custom then it's 800 to 1000 for a barrel
My Savages, I get 1/2" MOA to 3/4 MOA with reloads, so if you tried a different scope and it was all over the place, 5 inch groups, that barrel on the 338 wasn't cut right, probably in lands / throat is off. Make Savage do you right and they should rebarrel it. Custom barrels usually aren't cheap for your larger calibers but the accuracy you get is worth it. Take it to a gunsmith for bore scope in throat lands area. Great video.
@@GuidedhuntsI had a savage 110 and 300 win mag. Did not matter what I shot through it at 100 yards it was a 12-in group. I took the rifle back to where I bought it from which was a good friend of mine and he took it out to his range notice the same problem send it back to Savage. They sent him a new rifle and I bought myself a different rifle. Sell a Savage 110 but different model. Now shooting 1200 yds with no problems.
I’ve never had much success shooting off a sled with anything that has serious recoil. There’s an unnatural bounce and a greatly increased risk of internal damage to your optic. I’m not saying there’s not something else wrong, but before I re-barreled I would swap scopes to one you know is good and test again off front and rear bags.
@@Guidedhunts That was going to be my suggestion, try a different scope. I have seen a number of people shooting that rifle and not have groups that bad. I also have Arken scopes, which I am not using any more. The set screws in the turret cover can come loose and you lose where you are. They recommend Vibra Tite. So, I went back to the most hated scope in the world that has never failed me at all, not once.
I feel for you...very frustrating. A few suggestions that won't break the bank. Shoot from sand bags ! if you worry the rifle recoils too hard hold the front end or put your hand on top of the scope. Install a new scope you know works, quality matters when using magnum. Check the rings. Is your scope slips even so slightly through the rings? is the rings beefy enough for a big scope and heavy calibre. Check barrel channel, is it free floated enough, when barrel wipe it sometimes touches the stock. Check if the back of the lugs make enough contact, easy to check with a marker on the back of the lug and run the bolt a few times. Lastly your gunsmith could check a true your barrel and action... Good luck Ps I have a model 70, the top of action was totally out of spec it took me a while to find the problem, I had to ask my gunsmith to cut me some custom bases !
It is all too common for the rifle's barrel threads to not be concentric. Having the rifle's threads off center to bore happens quite often. Funny story, I saw a guy shoot off his suppressor at the range. Thing flew about 10 feet down range. Then rangemaster picked it up not realizing it was hot as hell and he threw it another ten feet down range. 😂. Was all pretty funny.
Some of these comments don’t seem to be people trying to help. I can’t wait to hear how you fix it and what the problem actually is. I have a similar old gun I’m rebuilding, I’ve had it for over 30 years , killed lots of animals with it, always had 1” or less groups, but I just put on a new barrel and still having similar issues but haven’t fired it a lot so thinking my issues will be simple and easier to remedy. Keep up the great videos, thanks
Thanks for watching my videos. Most people are good-hearted and want to help, and some are lost souls. I am waiting on some items I ordered. Then I will post what I figured out.
The only time I've ever experienced something like this was when I had a loose scope base. It was on a 12 ga slug gun and the screws walked out. It was so loose, I could actually see the scope wobbling by applying a bit of finger pressure. I would definitely check the torque on everything that has screws (if you haven't already). If you don't find anything obvious try swapping scopes. If that doesn't work, it almost certainly has to be the barrel and I'd just send it back to Savage. It's not worth experimenting too much given how costly 338 Lapua Magnum is.
Definitely keep it. If it is an older model ( non aluminum bedding ) try the 250 gr. Savage used a different twist rate when they first came out. They have been upgraded to a faster twist and have accustock type bedding in later models. Miss my 1st year production one I had. Your very lucky to get one.
Generally, I agree with this comment but, given the brake threads were not true there is a very real chance that the rifling isn’t “true” as well. I’m thinking this is a mechanical and engineering failure.
The two have nothing to do with each other. You will often find barrels with perfectly straight bores not concentric with the outside of the barrel. Pretty common on eastern European guns. @BZE_Fishin
@@donwyoming1936…interesting. There appears to be a breakdown in the manufacturing process. That said, despite not being directly related, if one process fails, there is a chance of additional process failures. Coming from a manufacturing background, this type of issue typically points to a larger problem. To your point, rifling a barrel and threading a barrel are separate processes but, if the barrel isn’t “shot out”, one could reasonably conclude that either, the barrel has poor quality or there is a metallurgical problem from the beginning…pointing directly to a quality control gap. Simply an observation…my intent was not to discount your position. In fact, I completely agree with your assessment as I have experienced the issue you originally cited.
I saw a Christensen Arms Ridgeline carbon in 300 Win. Mag with an NiteForce ATAC and mounts do something similar. It ended up shearing the base mounting screws twice. The base was also bedded. Ended up at Gun Smith going from small mounting screws to larger size. This happened a week before opening modern rifle whitetail season the first time. I was teaching the guy long range and handloading. It scared me when it happened as the scope came off hitting him in the face and bouncing off the ground. I thought the rifle blew up! Anyway it kept shooting high but still relatively accurate. Ended up selling rifle and building one with integrated bases. That ATAC was heavy and the rifle light leading me to believe that was the cause of the problem. He has now built two rifles both with integrated bases. I have been shooting a very long time and that is the first time I had ever seen this happen.
I would sell it. As you stated the tread end of the barrel was so bad the bullet destroyed the the suppressor. This makes me think the barrel is bed and who knows the breach threads' my be wrong. It is not worth repairing.
Check the riffling lands and end of barrel to see if the crown is damaged in any way. Another thought I had is , did the issue with the silencer ,cause any kind of back pressure that might have caused a slight bulge in the Barrel. I have seen wear guys have plunged their barrel into snow and then not knowing it was their fired the gun and put a slight bulge in the barrel. He did not know it was damaged till he traded it at a gun store ,wear it was discovered. Just my thoughts.
I know it’s 2w old already. Savage is well known for the railroad or zipper barrels. They’re tooling marks perpendicular to the bore the full length of the rifling. Ive also found most factory chambers are cut off the bore axis. Savage knows about their issues. They tell customers to shoot it and if it doesn’t meet their minimum quality standards, they’ll rebarrel it. Another commenter posted about putting a criterion barrel on theirs. I’ve got several shaws that shoot amazing for the price. Criterion’s are great, but if you’re willing to spend, you won’t be disappointed with a Brux, bartlien, benchmark etc. Or you can just sell it to me 😉
I got the parts I ordered. So I will be working on it soon. There is a rifle just like this for sale at first stop guns in Rapid City, South Dakota. FYI
Had the same issue with a brand new Savage 110. It was the scope. Turns out I had one of the scope rings too close to the turret base. It was distorting the scope. Fixed that and everything was fine.
Had same problem with a DS Arms. Had a 24” pattern. Sent back to company and they said nothing wrong. Took back to range with a couple of recon sniper friends, once again 24” pattern. Took to gunsmith did scope and barrel was bad. Actually had divots in lands. Sent back to factory, and did follow up call. Plant manager again said nothing wrong. Told them to scope barrel. Which he said no need. I said fine, one of guys has a big channel where does gun reviews and will have him do an honest review. If nothing wrong, then should get good review. Gun came back 5 days later with new chrome lined barrel, old barrel and a new trigger installed. Should have been done the first time.
Savage rifles have been known for their price point and accuracy (read consistency) having said that doesnt mean they dont turn out a lemon on occasion. Geeze, i wonder why the party was selling it? Dont pass it on to another victim, send it back to the factory for replacement. My understanding is Savage is customer service orientated.
I think that I would contact Savage and see what they can do for you. Savages are usually good rifles, but like any other brand, you can get a lemon. At the price of the ammo for that thing, you don't want to keep wasting it. Savage should honor there warranty on it, you might have to send it to them and let them check it out.
I bought a savage rifle once. Returned to the factory for repair. When I git it back, the initial problem was only slightly improved, but not enough. When the factory can’t git it to function well to begin with, then still can’t get it right the second time around, the build quality is far below the standards needed to have a properly functioning firearm. I returned the rifle, and will never consider another savage firearm. I will give it this though, when it did fire, it was accurate.
Also, anytime your're shooting a new rifle to you, aim at the middle of the target so you can have more surrounding paper to see hits. For a bit it actually looked like the first ammo was doing so well it was going through the same holes Take your bolt out, look down the bore at the target then make sure it matches your scope reticle as best you can before first shot
@@idecidenotyou No I don't know that if you are replying to me. He appears to be about the age of my oldest son. I've only been doing this for 40 years, handloading, hunting all over the US and Canada, shooting about 3500-4000 rounds per year for at least the last 2 decades. If your comment is directed at me, then you are extraordinarily presumptuous to make such a comment. You don't know me or what I know but now we all know you don't have a problem showing your ignorance. If I see someone doing something that has an easy fix I'll let them know based on experience.
@@idecidenotyou You can stand by it but you're wrong, which at this point is probably what you are used to. Your handle says a lot about who you are. Stooping to a low level of internet name calling and disrespect. Go hibernate you troll and try meditating and realize that being a guide, which I highly appreciate and respect, doesn't make anyone an automatic expert on shooting technique and ammo.
If you have anybody that reloads or a commercial reloader by you, I would take them two empty boxes of brass, and have them reload them to Nosler or Barns ttsx or Sierra GameChanger have them load them to their specs from factory and try them. I have multiple big guns too, and the only ones that really do good in mine that are Hornady are either SST‘s or interlocks ELDX I have not had a lot of luck with, but my 338 my300 Rum 7mm STW 300wm and 300wsm Shoot lights out with the nosler barns and Sierra bullets I also cite mine in first at 25 yards to make sure I am on the paper and then you can work it out from there. I always draw the crosshairs in the center of a paper plate measure down 2 inches and put a dot pull your boat out, make sure that you can look through where the bolt is and make sure you’re covering the Dot and make sure your crosshairs are aiming at the Bullseye above the dot and if You sit your scope to the bulleye 0:31 above the dot then shoot and you should be pretty close to the dot 2 inches below and set your scope to where you’re hitting the dot 2 inches below then take it out to 100 yards and you should be pretty close on paper to where you can adjust it
I would make sure your bipod isn’t hitting your front rest when recoiling. I wouldn’t shoot off the lead-sled or a bi-pod. Just use and front and rear bag. If still having issues, sell the gun.
First thing I would do is look inside of the bore with a bore scope give the bore a really good cleaning then bore scope it again if there is heavy carbon fouling or maybe burs especially at the mussel use a bore paste that has pumice which is a mild abrasive coat a bore mop with the paste don't be afraid to use this several strokes then clean inspect an repeat as necessary other things id check is the barrel contacting the stock anywhere it shouldn't be and the receiver is it bedded correctly and is the riflescope a known good scope I've seen all these things and more cause a rifle to shoot poorly an be corrected by the shooter/ owner nothing you cant do yourself with patients an time
I have that same scope I put on a 30-06. I noticed that the bell housing is almost touching the pic rail. I had that issue as well. Great glass, but crappy eye relief. I had to move the scope back about as far as it would go. I ended up putting it on a 6.5 with a shorter stock and putting on my Leupold 6-18 on my 06. It has really good eye relief. I about scoped myself last weekend.
I would double check the mounting of the scope, rings, base, rail, ect. If there is no issue with that I would double check the action screws to ensure they are tight and the rifle is not moving in the stock. After that, replace the scope with a known good scope ( I suspect this to be the problem). After that you can experiment with more than two types of ammo. Some guns are picky.
@@tacticalmattfoley Yes I'm certain you could but at least doing a visual inspection is a starting point. At least that's how I was advised by the guy at Silencer Central
Don't worry bloke, I feel your pain. Trying to find the cause is just as frustrating as hell. As a couple guys already stated, prolly should add the scope to list of "suspect" stuff to check. Also, as that is a Savage, you might try making sure your headspace is correct &, the barrel nut is tight. Shit dude, you even had me pulling my hair out by the end.
I’d vote for a different gun. With muzzle threads being poor first time around I wouldn’t be surprised if the interior of the barrel is just as messed up.
I bought my savage 110 fcp hs precision in 338 Lapua back in 2012 when they just came out. I reload for it, loves Hornady bullets, will be trying sierra soon, but wicked accurate with a vortex razor HD gen 2 4.7-25 sitting on it. Using 285 grn hpbt bullets. Great rifle, has at leasy just over 1000 rounds through it. Still shoots great. HOWEVER, now that youve had a true bore thread issue.....makes me wanna look at the threads and everything before i throw a can on it. Good to know
Have your gunsmith verify that the crown is good. I had a rifle that wouldn’t shoot do to a problem with the crown, got it redone and it went to sub MOA. When they’re checking that make sure the barrel is installed correctly. My son in law has a 110 in 338 lapua and it shoots sub MOA with almost everything we put in it. Good luck, keep us posted
The crown and the threads were just re cut. Due to the threads being cut crooked from the factory. That's the reason the bullet hit the suppressor. I wouldn't be shocked one bit if there is an issue with the chamber or barrel to receiver fit. Once I figure it out, I will post a follow-up video. Thanks for watching.
g'day mate, imho i would not use a sled too much bounce, go with a normal front rest and rear bag, go bact to your gun smith and get them to do a full check on the rifle ,head space, chamber allignment and torque settings. best of luck.
How many rounds did you say you had through it? Maybe bore scope and see what you see. Could show you something you can either send back to manufacturer or fix with more barrel break in. Have you considered JB bore paste to smooth out any rifling nicks. There’s some TH-cam videos out there on that? Also with that crappy ammo, maybe use them to continue barrel break in, or pull the bullets and reload them with them with something more consistent?
Inspect the bore and the muzzle crown with a borescope. Check to ensure the barrel is floated. Bed the receiver to the stock. If the barrel is bad, the borescope should allow you to confirm that. Then you can make a decision based on facts supported by evidence.
Vertical scope rings aren’t the best. I had always been told that, and continued to use them some. It’s hard to correct any alignment issues with them, and generally cannot be lapped. If you try, they can come out of round. They are not like a standard ring by any means. One thing to note about a vertical ring is the bottom screws generally have to be fully tightened prior to installing the upper screws. If you don’t do it this way, they may not be tight enough, and your scope is going to move.
Try it without the lead sled, make double sure your rail is mated to your receiver ,make sure there is no space under the rail, then check the crown where they re cut the barrel and re threaded it . Then Try a ladder test with the scope to see if it tracks correctly good luck...
Let me know if you want to try that route, I'm licensed by atf to manufacture ammo, and have been loading for over 35 years I'm in the Cheyenne area@@Guidedhunts
Hi, I'm calling Mark, I've been in the foreign legion for 25 years, I just came to see your video. First of all, it's not easy to judge from your video that it's not working. The first thing you need to check when your rifle fires poorly is the aiming system. Most rifles that come into my gunsmith for accuracy issues have loose sights. If your groups are all over the place without rhyme or reason, that's probably the problem. Check the iron sights by trying to move them with your hand. If there is the slightest movement, they need to be repaired. Fortunately, there are many ways to tighten the fit of a dovetail sight. A metal shim, lightly hammering the dovetail, and a blob of solder can solve this problem. If a rifle is equipped with a scope, many other problems can arise. To begin, make sure all screws on the scope rings and bases are tight. If you find one loose, you may have already found the problem, but be careful, it is important not to overtighten these screws as many rings and bases are aluminum and the fine threads are prone to stripping. There are recommended torque settings for the screws on your rings and bases set by the manufacturer. Look for them and use a torque wrench to lock everything in place as it should, then pull again. Look at the case itself. Are there any bulges or strange discoloration near the case mouth? Next, look at the primer. The primer is your ignition system and can have significant effects on accuracy. I have seen rifles that were extremely inaccurate due to a broken firing pin that still managed to fire the cartridge primers. The crown sits at the muzzle of your barrel and is essential to the rifle's accuracy. It should be uniform and not have any burrs, bumps or bumps. Most crowns are designed to prevent damage to critical areas, but they can still become damaged from years of field use. Taking your rifle to a gunsmith to reface a crown is a very common and inexpensive job that can resolve some accuracy issues. Make sure rifling twist rate and bullet weight are compatible Sometimes the combination of certain rifle twist rates and bullet weight can kill a rifle's accuracy. Diagnose this by looking at your bullet impact on paper at 50-100 yards. If your impacts seem oblong or sometimes even sideways (keyhole), your ball will not stabilize properly and will tumble towards the target. This problem is becoming more common with modern calibers that use longer, heavier bullets with higher ballistic coefficients. .338 - 8" for all bullets - 9" * Ratchet rifled 4 groove - 10" for all bullets Look at the stock: Imperfect bedding can harm rifle accuracy Supporting your rifle is essential for accurate shooting. Bedding is essentially a reverse imprint of your stock in the stock. A well-structured action will have a consistent position from one move to the next. There have been countless articles written about glass bedding and the action Start by shooting a group at 100 yards. A poorly anchored recoil leg can cause erratic groups with no consistency. I don't know if it can help you solve the problem it's not easy to judge from the video ahh also try shooting without a silencer Mark excuse me for my English
The rifle has no open sights. The base and rings are torqued to spec. And the crown and threads were just cut by a gunsmith. My thoughts are it is the factory barrel not within spec. I am going to try another scope and different ammo. Then might try another barrel.
I am surprised that a savage 110 has problems. My 110 in 30-06 is a tack driver with most ammo. But it is a 40 year old gun. Maybe the quality is better in older guns. I remember reading articles in gun magazines that talked about the 110 being more accurate out of the box that "match" rifles. Mine sure is.
It looks like the rail is hitting the objective lens of scope. Take off the scope and rail, cut rail back, clean and degrease threads then reinstall both with blue loctite. If that don’t do it try a different scope.
That's a great rifle, I shoot the same, broke mine in with factory loaded sellier n bellot loaded with 250gr sierra matchkings, scope base shot loose first time out, removed it, cleaned and 242 blue loctite the screws and base. Busting Clay pigeons at our 400 yd range is like cheating, can't wait to stretch it out at longer ranges
Have you taken a round and insert it in the muzzle to see if rifling is engaging bullet? I had a marlin 44 that did same thing yours is doing I'd have to stand inside the barn to hit it lol I inserted round into muzzle and it was over bored round didn't engage rifling it just went all the way down to cartridge rim.
That erratic something else is going on, different scope is a easy test and after that taking it to that gunsmith and have them give it a once over for anything like bedding issues, bad crown, poor barrel/chamber alignment. With that thread being crooked it wouldn’t surprise me if they machined everything crooked.
Part of the responsibility lies on your failure to check concentricity as all suppressor manufacturers recommend you do along with making sure the ammunition isn’t tumbling! You could have avoided damage by following standard safety measures.
Pull your rail, check for migration marks, you can torque it but that’s not going to help, it would need to be glued on and torqued to stop that. or switch scopes and see if it’s any better. There’s probably a reason the first guy sold it.
That is most certainly an issue with the scope base or the scope. You putting an entry-level scope on a pretty nice rifle. Swap out the scope to some thing that is known to work, and locked the scope base.
I would take the scope and rail off. Epoxy the rail to the action. Double check tourque specs and shoot off a bipod and rear bag. With heavy recoiling rifles something has to give. When you shoot in a lead sled it is usually something between the scope and action connection that gives. Savage is hit or miss. I will never buy another again after my last experience.
I shoot a model 110 with an Arkon EP5. My 100 wasn't shooting well when I started with Hornady 285gr bullets. I reload for everything I have. When I started loading for the 110 it was shooting at best fair ( 3-4in groups at 100 ) what I found is the jump from the bullet to the lands was over an 1/8in. I now have this rifle ammo at 20thousands from the lands and now they do not fit in the mag but I am shooting sub 1/2in at a 100 with 250gr Burger Elite Hunter and shooting milk jugs at 1000 to 1200 hundred is not difficult. So you might check your land to bullet distance however if you don't reload then there isn't much you can do. Also my Arkon is extremely precise when doping for distance and returning to zero, I am extremely happy with it.
First and cheapest thing I’ll do, is swap the scope with a good working one, making sure the base is seating tightly. If it’s not the issue, I’ll sell the gun , it’s probably a bad specimen.
I should note. I am running Leupold scope with vortex precision rings. First time I zero'd it... took a few shots to dial it in.. then first group was 1" at 100yrds. Just bench rest with bags and some ELD match. I wouldn't have recut the threads. I would have contacted Savage customer service. I've only dealt with them a couple times trying to get some info, but it seems their customer service is good.
I had one just like that and with careful inspection I found that the barrel was bent. Savage argued with me until I sent it back then they agreed. They put a new barrel on and it’s almost a quarter minute gun. Initially my gun was the same way but even worse
Put a shilen pre fit barrel on it. The stock barrels are hit or miss generally speaking. Your extreme spread and standard deviation are of a mile which will give you crummy groups.
LOL You tried 2 types of ammo. Keep trying ammo until you find the right one, your gun likes. Trying 2 types of ammo that is not enough to declare your gun a lemon. Good luck finding the right ammo
My ruger Americans will shoot moa with any ammo I've tried. If those 2 types didn't work, there is an issue. You people with finding a type your rifle likes lol!! One might shoot better than another but, a modern rifle shouldn't have a problem shooting moa with any factory ammo. Good lord...most people don't have the skill to even shoot moa but like to blame the gun or ammo. This man is a guide that knows what he is doing.
@@FreedompatrolOne MOA? ten MOA? Yea, all rifles will shoot "MOA". Pairing your rifle with a factory ammo that produces the best accuracy is necessary, if indeed you seek the best groups. "you people" would be the totality of all serious shooters and hunters.
I've seen some good suggestions and some really bad ones But one thing for sure get rid of the sled. You'll never see a rifle builder use one And another thing, not everyone is cut out for shooting cannons My threshold is a 300 Win mag😂 my go to Elk gun. Good luck
I bought 300 win mag a few years ago and had the same problem finally I said thats it and sold the price of ammo is way to much to pecker around with a questionable gun.
Had a Remington 700 338 LP with an oversized chamber. They fixed it on their dime in a week. Ended up selling and buying a custom 338 LM. Have savage fix it, sell it, and build a custom rifle to your specs.
I'm commenting as I watch. I have multiple K&P barrels. Ken did barrels for HS Precision for 30-40 years. Great guy. Personally, I never keep a rifle that shoots that poorly and I do not like Savage actions. Don't care for how the bolt handle is at the far rear of the bolt. I know many can shoot but just not a fan of the design. I would get rid of it. I tell all my friends when they buy a rifle always be prepared to part with it. That said, if you want to keep it, have LRI true the action and marry a new K&P barrel to it but get a 4 groove not a 6 groove. Ken gets his steel from Germany so it's good metal. But again, ultimately, if I were in your situation, I'd part with the rifle. If you're set on that cartridge, got buy a Tikka mag bolt donor rifle and have LRI put a K&P barrel on it. Tikka actions don't need truing. I have a bunch of Tikka bolts I need to send to LRI to get fluted, just haven't had the money yet.
That’s exactly what I was thinking! For not much more you can get a Tikka action and they are so much better then Savage junk! I have 8 guns in the gun shop right now and I don’t have one single Savage in my collection for a reason! Been collecting 60+ years and I reload and hunt too. I bought a cheap Savage 110 and only had it for a couple days until I got it to the range and I stopped by a friend who had a couple sons and gave him the rifle for free and they messed with it and gave it back so I donated it to my old boss who has a bunch of rifles and the last I heard he traded it in for something else after not getting it to shoot good! Better to pay too much and get what you need then not enough and get junk. I buy a whole lot of used rifles and I never pay more then it’s worth by ruling that it will need a new barrel before I even buy the rifle!
@@edwardabrams4972 I bought a perfectly fantastic shooting new 300WM stainless Tikka T3x Lite. Put a Stocky's Stock on it that was inletted for a Proof barrel, which I also bought in 7mm 8 twist, pre-fit for Tikka chambered in 7PRC. No regrets. Still have the factory Tikka 300WM stainless barrel I'll keep as a spare for a clone Tikka I have also chambered in 300WM but THEN just got a bargain on another new Tikka T3x Hunter with a wood stock NIB delivered for $750, also in 300WM!
Whenever you put a suppressor on, use a caliber appropriate suppressor alignment rod. Every time. Aside from that, this is a 110% budget rifle setup. These are the results i would expect for what you spent. I'd buy a prefiit Bartlein and bring the whole damn thing to a gunsmith and have it true'd up and headspaced. Personally i'd go .300PRC if you need a heavy round like that. $60 a box everywhere around here.
Savage is really sensitive to action screw torque and the rear tang area under the safety being free floated. With every savage that I’ve had to tune, the front action screw torque was between 30 and 50 inch lbs. and the rear was around 20 and the groups would close right up.
I had savage with crooked installed barrel, .... after sanding back I received less crooked. I am done with savages for my lifetime. Highly not recommended
You should have sent it back to Savage. They have excellent customer service. My buddy buys them all the time, and has had to send a couple of them in for small issues. You kind of screwed up by having a smith touch it. Now you have no proof that your smith did not mess it up. Be prepared for Savage to make that assumption as well. Before you screw up anymore, I'd be contacting Savage. That ammo costs way too much to be burning it up in an ill rifle. I've seen a couple of these rifles shoot poorly, but I just assumed it was the guys pulling the trigger. My buddy has one, and we can both put 5 shots into 3/4", so I know they can shoot well.
Should be a fun gun. At a first glance, I would take to bipod to shoot off the led sled. Just like your swivel stud hitting the bag can throw things off, so can the bipod ramming into the bag. I would shoot a group prone with a rear bag off the bipod, see how it does. Take the bipod off, shoot off the led sled and see how it does. Those would be a few cost effective things to try before a new barrel, gunsmith work, etc. 338 Lapua is a monster, but for LR hunting it doesn’t do much a 300 PRC or custom setup 300 RUM can’t AT a distance I’m assuming you’d shoot game (~1,000 yards) with the lapua. Good luck!
I haven't had the best of experience with savage. before you told us, i was wondering if it was a savage thread issue. other than that, enjoyed your video
Barrel not fully free floated? Base or rings coming loose? Does it group without the suppressor? Did it group before you had the barrel rethreaded? Was the barrel cut and then re crowned?
Barrel is free floated, Rings and base are tight to spec, Did not group with or without suppressor, It did not group before threads were re cut. The barrel was cut and re crowned after suppressor incident. I got a steel base coming, going to try different scope with different weights and brand ammo. And check everything else before I decide to put a new barrel on it. Thanks for watching.
I'd have to imagine either your bolt face is off or your lockup lugs aren't engaging true. If it was a muzzle crown issue your wouldn't get any consistency whatsoever and you did have a couple of halfway decent groups. Untrue lockup, if it isn't TOO awful bad, will sometimes fall into a consistent string. But not to often with your big magnums. That rifle was a quality control nightmare it seems. I'd bet it was made at the end of life for the CNC cutting bits.
Sub standard rifle and scope, have a reputable smith build you a rifle, Rem 700 action and a name brand barrel and a decent stock, do a load work up and you’ll be set, stay away from junk that will let you down
I would try a different scope just to rule that out but I’d bet the chamber is cut just as crooked as the muzzle threads were. Have your gunsmith remove the barrel and chuck it up on a lathe and check for concentricity in the chamber/throat area.
Agreed
I'd have your chamber checked. If the lathe that cut the muzzel threads was off. It's same lathe cut chamber?
This is why I use bore rods to verify alignment bore to suppressor prior to shooting any new rifle with my suppressor
Yea, lesson learned. I'm glad Lane is good to work with and is close to home, got me a new suppressor.
I bought a Savage .223 model 12 years ago, bore was so crooked from the factory (internally bent/crooked) that you could bore sight it at 100 yards and the bullet would hit the ground at 25 yards. Shooting off a bench. They replaced the barrel and it was fine after that. But they have terrible QC.
Man I have to agree. I was incredibly disappointed when I bought my savage 93 in 22 magnum and the magazines was all fŕrrŕ
I have a friend that has a Savage 338 Lapua. It had a TERRIBLE wandering zero. He had a cheap scope, cheap rings, and a cheap rail. TURNS OUT CHEAP AND 338 LAPUA MAGNUM DON'T MIX 😆 He put a $1,000 scope on it, swapped out the old rail for a name brand one, and specific rings rated to handle 338 Lapua... Wouldn't you know it... Shoots great.
I bought a 6.5 Savage. I found that the plastic stock would touch the barrel differently as I changed my hold on the forestock. I replaced the stock with a custom wood stock and free floated the barrel. You might find this a huge improvement.
I'm not even gonna shoot my new rifle with that plastic crap stock they're all using these days. I ordered a custom laminated wood thumb hole stock the day my rifle came in. It should come in by Monday and Tuesday will be the 1st day I try her out
@@mikemchugh949I have this same rifle in the same caliber. These HS stocks are excellent because they contain an almost full length aluminum bed. HS makes good stocks and they sell to different rifle manufacturers for their target rifles.
I also love my pepper laminated wood stocks on my Rem700 300 RUM, Savage ML-11 and Savage A17 semi-target in 17 HMR.
Well, around 18 months ago, I purchased a Savage 110 Tactical in 308W. I went through the clean-up of the bore of the barrel and then completed the range shooting back home. I cleaned up the bore, and then I bore scoped; what a mess chattering the whole length of the bore; the barrel was replaced with a Criterion barrel match-grade. CHECK YOUR BORE SAVAGE RIFLES. It cost me $785.00.
The replacement barrel from Criterion is a Pre-fit barrel that cost me $325 for a 22" barrel; I installed the barrel myself, and I also purchased all the needed tools, the go/no-go gauges, and I mean I bought everything costing me over $1035.
WOW, OUCH.
@@NoWr2Run, I have other Savage rifles I'm thinking changing the barrels on the other two rifle, take a 30-06, and put a 308W barrel 25/26," an old hunting rifle. My reason to buy everything to change out barrels.
I purchased a Savage 110 Tactical in 6.5 CM a few years back but my son in law had a Savage FCP in .308. We compared them & it was a sight how much better the quality of my SIL's older rifle is from my rifle which was only about 8-9 years younger than his .308. I also have a Savage Model 12 VLP in .223 1:7 twist from back in the 1990's & it's quality was superb compared to my 110 Tactical. I use to be a super fan of Savage but now not so much. Their quality control is definitely NOT up to what it used to be.
1. Make sure your action screws are torqued correctly.
2. Make sure you dont have any obstruction under the action so that you have good contact between the action and the stock.
3. Make sure your barrel is completely free floated from the barrel nut forward.
4. Go over your scope and base torque.
5. Try shooting it out of the lead sled, sometimes rifles require that they are free to recoil especially with this larger magnum rifles.
6. And if it still doesn't shoot you might just need to make sure your barrel nut is torqued correctly and that you have good head spacing so your bullet doesn't have to jump so far before it hits the lands of your barrel when you fire.
Number three was the first thing that came to mind after checking the scope, that thing being inconsistent like that seems to be a harmonics issue, especially when it shows capabilities of putting slugs in the same hole.
Oh, I forgot to mention in my last comment JUNK THE LEAD SLED! I have yet to see a rifle that would not shoot better off of the led slug (not a type-0) than on.
Lead sleds are your enemy not your friend
With all of the mill work and thread cutting, make sure you have a nice crown cut and all the lands terminate the same. Or just have it re-crowned and polished.
As most have said do one thing at a time. First get rid of the lead sled and put it on some bags without the bipod and shoot the same Hornady box ammo. Dont adjust the scope at all. Second as you has stated check everything for tightness. Before shooting again I would give it a good cleaning and replace the scope with a known proven scope even if your just borrowing it from another rifle. No need to buy another one at this point. Even if its a low powered or better a fixed power scope for testing. then reshoot. If its still bad and all over the place. Pull the gun out of the stock and see if there is anything obvious odd wear marks, is it bedded, is there something that might have slipped under the stock is it setting in the stock correctly. The gun is second hand. Put back together with a torque wrench. Look up the correct specs for the torque. If it still shoot like a shotgun then I would take it to a gunsmith for options.
QC is an issue at Savage. I purchased 2 Identical Savage 110’s in 708 that both have heinous chatter marks in the bore… the bore almost looks like it’s internally threaded. So they either didn’t inspect the bore at all… or did, and let it out the door anyways.
Every savage I own has very crude machining marks at least somewhere. The actions are clunky.
I would never purchase a savage without being able to first inspect the bore with a borescope… and only if the price was very low.
I’m not saying they are all bad… but the truth is… a percentage of them are getting past their loose QC.
It is what it is.
I like their accutrigger though… they definitely got that right… and the accufit stock is decent-ish.
When I see so many Savage rifles on the market that are only a hundred bucks less than a Tikka T3x, I am left a bit baffled. A rifle is a lifetime purchase… if you can, it is better to be patient, save a couple hundred bucks more and get a rifle with a reputation of quality… Tikkas and Brownings for example.
Cheers!
They must be cousins because I bought a Savage 110 Tactical in 308W that chattered the whole length of the barrel. I replaced it.
Go buy a Weatherby or Gunwerk rifle you never look back.
People who sell guns, as I did, call it "Salvage" instead of Savage...
@@randyfix3664Seekins Precision PH2 is another one that I would HIGHLY recommend. for $1600-1900... can't beat it.
@@tylervolentine1286 all savage rifle barrels are made that way, always and forever....u have to spend money for something good.....your not getting a Brux, Bartlein, or Criterion barrel when u buy a savage...u have fork out the cash for a good barrel...Criterion barrels are the best buy for the money, unless u go custom then it's 800 to 1000 for a barrel
My Savages, I get 1/2" MOA to 3/4 MOA with reloads, so if you tried a different scope and it was all over the place, 5 inch groups, that barrel on the 338 wasn't cut right, probably in lands / throat is off. Make Savage do you right and they should rebarrel it. Custom barrels usually aren't cheap for your larger calibers but the accuracy you get is worth it. Take it to a gunsmith for bore scope in throat lands area. Great video.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. Thanks for watching.
@@GuidedhuntsI had a savage 110 and 300 win mag. Did not matter what I shot through it at 100 yards it was a 12-in group. I took the rifle back to where I bought it from which was a good friend of mine and he took it out to his range notice the same problem send it back to Savage. They sent him a new rifle and I bought myself a different rifle. Sell a Savage 110 but different model. Now shooting 1200 yds with no problems.
That's a savage for you. Especially the 110
I’ve never had much success shooting off a sled with anything that has serious recoil.
There’s an unnatural bounce and a greatly increased risk of internal damage to your optic.
I’m not saying there’s not something else wrong, but before I re-barreled I would swap scopes to one you know is good and test again off front and rear bags.
Yea, the sled really want weighted down. But I am going to try another scope. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts That was going to be my suggestion, try a different scope. I have seen a number of people shooting that rifle and not have groups that bad. I also have Arken scopes, which I am not using any more. The set screws in the turret cover can come loose and you lose where you are. They recommend Vibra Tite.
So, I went back to the most hated scope in the world that has never failed me at all, not once.
Same here! The sleds aren’t as good as dang bags for me
I've heard that sometimes when you cut threads on the end it can relieve pressure in the metal and that can damage accuracy
I would try another scope. Scary crisis averted with the suppressor baffle strike.
Yea, I am lucky with the suppressor incident.
I agree with the others on trying a new scope. Good luck
Great video Eric! Looking forward to finding out what the problem is.
Thanks, Rich. I will post a follow-up video after I get it shooting well.
I feel for you...very frustrating.
A few suggestions that won't break the bank.
Shoot from sand bags ! if you worry the rifle recoils too hard hold the front end or put your hand on top of the scope.
Install a new scope you know works, quality matters when using magnum.
Check the rings. Is your scope slips even so slightly through the rings? is the rings beefy enough for a big scope and heavy calibre.
Check barrel channel, is it free floated enough, when barrel wipe it sometimes touches the stock.
Check if the back of the lugs make enough contact, easy to check with a marker on the back of the lug and run the bolt a few times.
Lastly your gunsmith could check a true your barrel and action...
Good luck
Ps I have a model 70, the top of action was totally out of spec it took me a while to find the problem, I had to ask my gunsmith to cut me some custom bases !
I’d try another scope. Surely if you don’t have another one a friend does. A tracking test on that one may tell you
I think that load is unstable. Velocity seems all over the place
Never trust a lead sled
"Salvage".....when I sold guns, that's what we called the company.
When I sold guns, we called them a Fayette County Weatherby. That's a Pennsylvania joke.
the Arkin scope is possible variable that could be checked using a different brand. A 338 LM is pretty severe jolt for optics.
It is all too common for the rifle's barrel threads to not be concentric. Having the rifle's threads off center to bore happens quite often. Funny story, I saw a guy shoot off his suppressor at the range. Thing flew about 10 feet down range. Then rangemaster picked it up not realizing it was hot as hell and he threw it another ten feet down range. 😂. Was all pretty funny.
Some of these comments don’t seem to be people trying to help. I can’t wait to hear how you fix it and what the problem actually is. I have a similar old gun I’m rebuilding, I’ve had it for over 30 years , killed lots of animals with it, always had 1” or less groups, but I just put on a new barrel and still having similar issues but haven’t fired it a lot so thinking my issues will be simple and easier to remedy. Keep up the great videos, thanks
Thanks for watching my videos. Most people are good-hearted and want to help, and some are lost souls. I am waiting on some items I ordered. Then I will post what I figured out.
The only time I've ever experienced something like this was when I had a loose scope base. It was on a 12 ga slug gun and the screws walked out. It was so loose, I could actually see the scope wobbling by applying a bit of finger pressure. I would definitely check the torque on everything that has screws (if you haven't already). If you don't find anything obvious try swapping scopes. If that doesn't work, it almost certainly has to be the barrel and I'd just send it back to Savage. It's not worth experimenting too much given how costly 338 Lapua Magnum is.
Scope base and rigs were torqued to spec. Going g to try a different scope. Thanks for watching
It's a lemon, send it back
Now I absolutely love and have complete confidence in my Arken scope but the only time I've seen a rifle shoot like that was because of a bad scope
Definitely keep it. If it is an older model ( non aluminum bedding ) try the 250 gr. Savage used a different twist rate when they first came out. They have been upgraded to a faster twist and have accustock type bedding in later models. Miss my 1st year production one I had. Your very lucky to get one.
Yea, I like the rifle a lot. Other than that, it's not shooting well yet. I will try that ammo and see how it does. Thanks for watching.
Scope and scope mounting problems can wreak havoc… always have to rule that out before blaming other components.
Agreed. The only time I've seen this myself was on a slug gun that had the scope base screws walk out.
Generally, I agree with this comment but, given the brake threads were not true there is a very real chance that the rifling isn’t “true” as well.
I’m thinking this is a mechanical and engineering failure.
The two have nothing to do with each other. You will often find barrels with perfectly straight bores not concentric with the outside of the barrel. Pretty common on eastern European guns. @BZE_Fishin
@@donwyoming1936…interesting. There appears to be a breakdown in the manufacturing process. That said, despite not being directly related, if one process fails, there is a chance of additional process failures.
Coming from a manufacturing background, this type of issue typically points to a larger problem. To your point, rifling a barrel and threading a barrel are separate processes but, if the barrel isn’t “shot out”, one could reasonably conclude that either, the barrel has poor quality or there is a metallurgical problem from the beginning…pointing directly to a quality control gap.
Simply an observation…my intent was not to discount your position. In fact, I completely agree with your assessment as I have experienced the issue you originally cited.
I saw a Christensen Arms Ridgeline carbon in 300 Win. Mag with an NiteForce ATAC and mounts do something similar. It ended up shearing the base mounting screws twice. The base was also bedded. Ended up at Gun Smith going from small mounting screws to larger size. This happened a week before opening modern rifle whitetail season the first time. I was teaching the guy long range and handloading. It scared me when it happened as the scope came off hitting him in the face and bouncing off the ground. I thought the rifle blew up! Anyway it kept shooting high but still relatively accurate. Ended up selling rifle and building one with integrated bases.
That ATAC was heavy and the rifle light leading me to believe that was the cause of the problem. He has now built two rifles both with integrated bases. I have been shooting a very long time and that is the first time I had ever seen this happen.
Man you're lucky, that could have been catastrophic . It's a used Salvage......you could use it in your garden to stake up your tomato plants.
I would sell it. As you stated the tread end of the barrel was so bad the bullet destroyed the the suppressor. This makes me think the barrel is bed and who knows the breach threads' my be wrong. It is not worth repairing.
Send it back to savage.
Check the riffling lands and end of barrel to see if the crown is damaged in any way. Another thought I had is , did the issue with the silencer ,cause any kind of back pressure that might have caused a slight bulge in the Barrel. I have seen wear guys have plunged their barrel into snow and then not knowing it was their fired the gun and put a slight bulge in the barrel. He did not know it was damaged till he traded it at a gun store ,wear it was discovered. Just my thoughts.
Good point. Going to check it with a bore scope to see. Thanks for watching.
I know it’s 2w old already. Savage is well known for the railroad or zipper barrels. They’re tooling marks perpendicular to the bore the full length of the rifling. Ive also found most factory chambers are cut off the bore axis. Savage knows about their issues. They tell customers to shoot it and if it doesn’t meet their minimum quality standards, they’ll rebarrel it.
Another commenter posted about putting a criterion barrel on theirs. I’ve got several shaws that shoot amazing for the price. Criterion’s are great, but if you’re willing to spend, you won’t be disappointed with a Brux, bartlien, benchmark etc. Or you can just sell it to me 😉
I got the parts I ordered. So I will be working on it soon. There is a rifle just like this for sale at first stop guns in Rapid City, South Dakota. FYI
Had the same issue with a brand new Savage 110. It was the scope. Turns out I had one of the scope rings too close to the turret base. It was distorting the scope. Fixed that and everything was fine.
Had same problem with a DS Arms. Had a 24” pattern. Sent back to company and they said nothing wrong. Took back to range with a couple of recon sniper friends, once again 24” pattern. Took to gunsmith did scope and barrel was bad. Actually had divots in lands. Sent back to factory, and did follow up call. Plant manager again said nothing wrong. Told them to scope barrel. Which he said no need. I said fine, one of guys has a big channel where does gun reviews and will have him do an honest review. If nothing wrong, then should get good review. Gun came back 5 days later with new chrome lined barrel, old barrel and a new trigger installed. Should have been done the first time.
It's going to be interesting to see what the factory says. Thanks for watching.
Savage rifles have been known for their price point and accuracy (read consistency) having said that doesnt mean they dont turn out a lemon on occasion. Geeze, i wonder why the party was selling it? Dont pass it on to another victim, send it back to the factory for replacement. My
understanding is Savage is customer service orientated.
I think that I would contact Savage and see what they can do for you. Savages are usually good rifles, but like any other brand, you can get a lemon. At the price of the ammo for that thing, you don't want to keep wasting it. Savage should honor there warranty on it, you might have to send it to them and let them check it out.
I’m not shocked in factory cut threads. I never trust factory unless it comes from a good smith.
LRI has done some work for me, great group of guys!
Yea, LRI figured out threads were cut from factory crooked. And then they recut threads and re crowned barrel.
I think the recoil pressure on the scope is your problem.
I bought a savage rifle once. Returned to the factory for repair. When I git it back, the initial problem was only slightly improved, but not enough. When the factory can’t git it to function well to begin with, then still can’t get it right the second time around, the build quality is far below the standards needed to have a properly functioning firearm. I returned the rifle, and will never consider another savage firearm. I will give it this though, when it did fire, it was accurate.
Send it back to savage. I had a 22-250 that had a bad barrel. Savage put a new barrel on it and now it shoots 1/4 moa.
He bought it used.
Also, anytime your're shooting a new rifle to you, aim at the middle of the target so you can have more surrounding paper to see hits. For a bit it actually looked like the first ammo was doing so well it was going through the same holes
Take your bolt out, look down the bore at the target then make sure it matches your scope reticle as best you can before first shot
Thanks for watching.
You do know he has more experience than you do in this comment you made..
@@idecidenotyou No I don't know that if you are replying to me. He appears to be about the age of my oldest son. I've only been doing this for 40 years, handloading, hunting all over the US and Canada, shooting about 3500-4000 rounds per year for at least the last 2 decades. If your comment is directed at me, then you are extraordinarily presumptuous to make such a comment. You don't know me or what I know but now we all know you don't have a problem showing your ignorance. If I see someone doing something that has an easy fix I'll let them know based on experience.
@@derekmcmurry that was pathetic.. mr.lame. I still stand by my first comment..
@@idecidenotyou You can stand by it but you're wrong, which at this point is probably what you are used to. Your handle says a lot about who you are. Stooping to a low level of internet name calling and disrespect. Go hibernate you troll and try meditating and realize that being a guide, which I highly appreciate and respect, doesn't make anyone an automatic expert on shooting technique and ammo.
If you have anybody that reloads or a commercial reloader by you, I would take them two empty boxes of brass, and have them reload them to Nosler or Barns ttsx or Sierra GameChanger have them load them to their specs from factory and try them. I have multiple big guns too, and the only ones that really do good in mine that are Hornady are either SST‘s or interlocks ELDX I have not had a lot of luck with, but my 338 my300 Rum 7mm STW 300wm and 300wsm Shoot lights out with the nosler barns and Sierra bullets I also cite mine in first at 25 yards to make sure I am on the paper and then you can work it out from there. I always draw the crosshairs in the center of a paper plate measure down 2 inches and put a dot pull your boat out, make sure that you can look through where the bolt is and make sure you’re covering the Dot and make sure your crosshairs are aiming at the Bullseye above the dot and if You sit your scope to the bulleye 0:31 above the dot then shoot and you should be pretty close to the dot 2 inches below and set your scope to where you’re hitting the dot 2 inches below then take it out to 100 yards and you should be pretty close on paper to where you can adjust it
I would make sure your bipod isn’t hitting your front rest when recoiling. I wouldn’t shoot off the lead-sled or a bi-pod. Just use and front and rear bag. If still having issues, sell the gun.
Very moral of you
Take the bolt apart and check for spring bind, and poundage, check pin also, make sure nothing is stuck down in the tapered area were the pin seates
First thing I would do is look inside of the bore with a bore scope give the bore a really good cleaning then bore scope it again if there is heavy carbon fouling or maybe burs especially at the mussel use a bore paste that has pumice which is a mild abrasive coat a bore mop with the paste don't be afraid to use this several strokes then clean inspect an repeat as necessary other things id check is the barrel contacting the stock anywhere it shouldn't be and the receiver is it bedded correctly and is the riflescope a known good scope I've seen all these things and more cause a rifle to shoot poorly an be corrected by the shooter/ owner nothing you cant do yourself with patients an time
I have that same scope I put on a 30-06. I noticed that the bell housing is almost touching the pic rail. I had that issue as well. Great glass, but crappy eye relief. I had to move the scope back about as far as it would go. I ended up putting it on a 6.5 with a shorter stock and putting on my Leupold 6-18 on my 06. It has really good eye relief. I about scoped myself last weekend.
It is close to rail but not touching. I'm going to try a different scope to rule that out.
I would double check the mounting of the scope, rings, base, rail, ect. If there is no issue with that I would double check the action screws to ensure they are tight and the rifle is not moving in the stock. After that, replace the scope with a known good scope ( I suspect this to be the problem). After that you can experiment with more than two types of ammo. Some guns are picky.
Just got my first suppressor in December. I was told the first thing I need to do when spinning it on any muzzle to to look down the bore
Yea, I was never told that. Lesson learned. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts It's very difficult to tell but your scope bell is not contacting the end of that pic rail is it?
@derekmcmurry4263 Thanks for watching. No, it is not touching, but does look like it in the video.
Even after doing that, you could have a baffle strike.
@@tacticalmattfoley Yes I'm certain you could but at least doing a visual inspection is a starting point. At least that's how I was advised by the guy at Silencer Central
Don't worry bloke, I feel your pain. Trying to find the cause is just as frustrating as hell.
As a couple guys already stated, prolly should add the scope to list of "suspect" stuff to check. Also, as that is a Savage, you might try making sure your headspace is correct &, the barrel nut is tight.
Shit dude, you even had me pulling my hair out by the end.
I’d vote for a different gun. With muzzle threads being poor first time around I wouldn’t be surprised if the interior of the barrel is just as messed up.
I bought my savage 110 fcp hs precision in 338 Lapua back in 2012 when they just came out. I reload for it, loves Hornady bullets, will be trying sierra soon, but wicked accurate with a vortex razor HD gen 2 4.7-25 sitting on it.
Using 285 grn hpbt bullets. Great rifle, has at leasy just over 1000 rounds through it. Still shoots great.
HOWEVER, now that youve had a true bore thread issue.....makes me wanna look at the threads and everything before i throw a can on it.
Good to know
I have the same gun mine hates Hornady ammo shoots 2 1 inch groups three inches from each other. Loves the 300gr bergers sub half min.
Have your gunsmith verify that the crown is good. I had a rifle that wouldn’t shoot do to a problem with the crown, got it redone and it went to sub MOA. When they’re checking that make sure the barrel is installed correctly. My son in law has a 110 in 338 lapua and it shoots sub MOA with almost everything we put in it.
Good luck, keep us posted
The crown and the threads were just re cut. Due to the threads being cut crooked from the factory. That's the reason the bullet hit the suppressor. I wouldn't be shocked one bit if there is an issue with the chamber or barrel to receiver fit. Once I figure it out, I will post a follow-up video. Thanks for watching.
g'day mate, imho i would not use a sled too much bounce, go with a normal front rest and rear bag, go bact to your gun smith and get them to do a full check on the rifle ,head space, chamber allignment and torque settings. best of luck.
How many rounds did you say you had through it? Maybe bore scope and see what you see. Could show you something you can either send back to manufacturer or fix with more barrel break in. Have you considered JB bore paste to smooth out any rifling nicks. There’s some TH-cam videos out there on that? Also with that crappy ammo, maybe use them to continue barrel break in, or pull the bullets and reload them with them with something more consistent?
I might have to try the bore paste.
Inspect the bore and the muzzle crown with a borescope. Check to ensure the barrel is floated. Bed the receiver to the stock.
If the barrel is bad, the borescope should allow you to confirm that. Then you can make a decision based on facts supported by evidence.
Vertical scope rings aren’t the best. I had always been told that, and continued to use them some. It’s hard to correct any alignment issues with them, and generally cannot be lapped. If you try, they can come out of round. They are not like a standard ring by any means.
One thing to note about a vertical ring is the bottom screws generally have to be fully tightened prior to installing the upper screws. If you don’t do it this way, they may not be tight enough, and your scope is going to move.
I am not familiar with Savage but do they stand behind their product? I would send it back to them and let them sort it out.
Try it without the lead sled, make double sure your rail is mated to your receiver ,make sure there is no space under the rail, then check the crown where they re cut the barrel and re threaded it . Then Try a ladder test with the scope to see if it tracks correctly good luck...
Thanks for the great info. I will try that.
Out of curiosity do you handload, if so try just neck sizing some of the fired brass and see if the resulting ammunition works better @@Guidedhunts
@armymp76544 I don't reload, but I am going to try a few more boxes of different ammo and weight bullets.
Let me know if you want to try that route, I'm licensed by atf to manufacture ammo, and have been loading for over 35 years I'm in the Cheyenne area@@Guidedhunts
Hi, I'm calling Mark, I've been in the foreign legion for 25 years, I just came to see your video. First of all, it's not easy to judge from your video that it's not working. The first thing you need to check when your rifle fires poorly is the aiming system. Most rifles that come into my gunsmith for accuracy issues have loose sights. If your groups are all over the place without rhyme or reason, that's probably the problem.
Check the iron sights by trying to move them with your hand. If there is the slightest movement, they need to be repaired. Fortunately, there are many ways to tighten the fit of a dovetail sight. A metal shim, lightly hammering the dovetail, and a blob of solder can solve this problem.
If a rifle is equipped with a scope, many other problems can arise. To begin, make sure all screws on the scope rings and bases are tight. If you find one loose, you may have already found the problem, but be careful, it is important not to overtighten these screws as many rings and bases are aluminum and the fine threads are prone to stripping. There are recommended torque settings for the screws on your rings and bases set by the manufacturer. Look for them and use a torque wrench to lock everything in place as it should, then pull again.
Look at the case itself. Are there any bulges or strange discoloration near the case mouth? Next, look at the primer. The primer is your ignition system and can have significant effects on accuracy. I have seen rifles that were extremely inaccurate due to a broken firing pin that still managed to fire the cartridge primers.
The crown sits at the muzzle of your barrel and is essential to the rifle's accuracy. It should be uniform and not have any burrs, bumps or bumps.
Most crowns are designed to prevent damage to critical areas, but they can still become damaged from years of field use. Taking your rifle to a gunsmith to reface a crown is a very common and inexpensive job that can resolve some accuracy issues.
Make sure rifling twist rate and bullet weight are compatible
Sometimes the combination of certain rifle twist rates and bullet weight can kill a rifle's accuracy. Diagnose this by looking at your bullet impact on paper at 50-100 yards. If your impacts seem oblong or sometimes even sideways (keyhole), your ball will not stabilize properly and will tumble towards the target. This problem is becoming more common with modern calibers that use longer, heavier bullets with higher ballistic coefficients.
.338
- 8" for all bullets
- 9" * Ratchet rifled 4 groove
- 10" for all bullets
Look at the stock: Imperfect bedding can harm rifle accuracy
Supporting your rifle is essential for accurate shooting. Bedding is essentially a reverse imprint of your stock in the stock. A well-structured action will have a consistent position from one move to the next. There have been countless articles written about glass bedding and the action
Start by shooting a group at 100 yards. A poorly anchored recoil leg can cause erratic groups with no consistency.
I don't know if it can help you solve the problem it's not easy to judge from the video ahh also try shooting without a silencer
Mark excuse me for my English
The rifle has no open sights. The base and rings are torqued to spec. And the crown and threads were just cut by a gunsmith. My thoughts are it is the factory barrel not within spec. I am going to try another scope and different ammo. Then might try another barrel.
@@Guidedhunts
hello ahh maybe this will solve the problem, I have a SAVAGE predator 308 and it shoots perfectly well
good luck
I am surprised that a savage 110 has problems. My 110 in 30-06 is a tack driver with most ammo. But it is a 40 year old gun. Maybe the quality is better in older guns. I remember reading articles in gun magazines that talked about the 110 being more accurate out of the box that "match" rifles. Mine sure is.
Your close to 200 dollars into that thing just in ammo wow it might cost you a few hundred more just to figure it out.
It looks like the rail is hitting the objective lens of scope. Take off the scope and rail, cut rail back, clean and degrease threads then reinstall both with blue loctite. If that don’t do it try a different scope.
That's a great rifle, I shoot the same, broke mine in with factory loaded sellier n bellot loaded with 250gr sierra matchkings, scope base shot loose first time out, removed it, cleaned and 242 blue loctite the screws and base. Busting Clay pigeons at our 400 yd range is like cheating, can't wait to stretch it out at longer ranges
Have you taken a round and insert it in the muzzle to see if rifling is engaging bullet? I had a marlin 44 that did same thing yours is doing I'd have to stand inside the barn to hit it lol I inserted round into muzzle and it was over bored round didn't engage rifling it just went all the way down to cartridge rim.
That erratic something else is going on, different scope is a easy test and after that taking it to that gunsmith and have them give it a once over for anything like bedding issues, bad crown, poor barrel/chamber alignment. With that thread being crooked it wouldn’t surprise me if they machined everything crooked.
Part of the responsibility lies on your failure to check concentricity as all suppressor manufacturers recommend you do along with making sure the ammunition isn’t tumbling!
You could have avoided damage by following standard safety measures.
I wasn't told that when I bought the suppressor or I would have. Lesson learned.
There is definatly an issue there . Sell and get a Bergara in 300 prc.
Pull your rail, check for migration marks, you can torque it but that’s not going to help, it would need to be glued on and torqued to stop that. or switch scopes and see if it’s any better.
There’s probably a reason the first guy sold it.
Yea, I got a new steel rail coming. I'm going to switch it and scope. And check everything else before I have it re barreled. Thanks for watching.
That is most certainly an issue with the scope base or the scope. You putting an entry-level scope on a pretty nice rifle. Swap out the scope to some thing that is known to work, and locked the scope base.
Thanks for watching.
I would take the scope and rail off. Epoxy the rail to the action. Double check tourque specs and shoot off a bipod and rear bag. With heavy recoiling rifles something has to give. When you shoot in a lead sled it is usually something between the scope and action connection that gives.
Savage is hit or miss. I will never buy another again after my last experience.
I shoot a model 110 with an Arkon EP5. My 100 wasn't shooting well when I started with Hornady 285gr bullets. I reload for everything I have. When I started loading for the 110 it was shooting at best fair ( 3-4in groups at 100 ) what I found is the jump from the bullet to the lands was over an 1/8in. I now have this rifle ammo at 20thousands from the lands and now they do not fit in the mag but I am shooting sub 1/2in at a 100 with 250gr Burger Elite Hunter and shooting milk jugs at 1000 to 1200 hundred is not difficult. So you might check your land to bullet distance however if you don't reload then there isn't much you can do. Also my Arkon is extremely precise when doping for distance and returning to zero, I am extremely happy with it.
Thanks for the info.
First and cheapest thing I’ll do, is swap the scope with a good working one, making sure the base is seating tightly.
If it’s not the issue, I’ll sell the gun , it’s probably a bad specimen.
I have that same rifle. Removing the muzzle brake was a chore... well not the brake, the washer.
I'm running the Banish 338 on mine
I should note. I am running Leupold scope with vortex precision rings. First time I zero'd it... took a few shots to dial it in.. then first group was 1" at 100yrds. Just bench rest with bags and some ELD match.
I wouldn't have recut the threads. I would have contacted Savage customer service. I've only dealt with them a couple times trying to get some info, but it seems their customer service is good.
I had one just like that and with careful inspection I found that the barrel was bent. Savage argued with me until I sent it back then they agreed. They put a new barrel on and it’s almost a quarter minute gun. Initially my gun was the same way but even worse
Good to know. Thanks for watching.
Put a shilen pre fit barrel on it. The stock barrels are hit or miss generally speaking. Your extreme spread and standard deviation are of a mile which will give you crummy groups.
LOL You tried 2 types of ammo. Keep trying ammo until you find the right one, your gun likes. Trying 2 types of ammo that is not enough to declare your gun a lemon. Good luck finding the right ammo
My ruger Americans will shoot moa with any ammo I've tried. If those 2 types didn't work, there is an issue. You people with finding a type your rifle likes lol!! One might shoot better than another but, a modern rifle shouldn't have a problem shooting moa with any factory ammo. Good lord...most people don't have the skill to even shoot moa but like to blame the gun or ammo. This man is a guide that knows what he is doing.
@@FreedompatrolOne MOA? ten MOA? Yea, all rifles will shoot "MOA". Pairing your rifle with a factory ammo that produces the best accuracy is necessary, if indeed you seek the best groups. "you people" would be the totality of all serious shooters and hunters.
@@Freedompatrol all poor people say their ruger American is just as good as other guns.
Like most, believe Savage is most capable
I've seen some good suggestions and some really bad ones
But one thing for sure get rid of the sled.
You'll never see a rifle builder use one
And another thing, not everyone is cut out for shooting cannons
My threshold is a
300 Win mag😂 my go to Elk gun.
Good luck
I bought 300 win mag a few years ago and had the same problem finally I said thats it and sold the price of ammo is way to much to pecker around with a questionable gun.
I have 3 rifles with K&p barrels, they are awesome. Might need more on that gun, not sure, blueprints is pretty expensive
$142 for 20 cartridges!? I didn’t know there were rounds that expensive for anything. $7 a round. Why?
Really, it shouldn't be that high. But it is. I knew that when I bought the gun. Thanks for watching.
1st thing to look at when a gun won't group is the scope, rings & mount. Probably 90% of accuracy issues are found there. 🤠
Had a Remington 700 338 LP with an oversized chamber. They fixed it on their dime in a week. Ended up selling and buying a custom 338 LM. Have savage fix it, sell it, and build a custom rifle to your specs.
I'm commenting as I watch. I have multiple K&P barrels. Ken did barrels for HS Precision for 30-40 years. Great guy.
Personally, I never keep a rifle that shoots that poorly and I do not like Savage actions. Don't care for how the bolt handle is at the far rear of the bolt. I know many can shoot but just not a fan of the design. I would get rid of it. I tell all my friends when they buy a rifle always be prepared to part with it. That said, if you want to keep it, have LRI true the action and marry a new K&P barrel to it but get a 4 groove not a 6 groove. Ken gets his steel from Germany so it's good metal.
But again, ultimately, if I were in your situation, I'd part with the rifle. If you're set on that cartridge, got buy a Tikka mag bolt donor rifle and have LRI put a K&P barrel on it. Tikka actions don't need truing. I have a bunch of Tikka bolts I need to send to LRI to get fluted, just haven't had the money yet.
OK, I might have to go back to LRI and see about the tikka actions.
That’s exactly what I was thinking! For not much more you can get a Tikka action and they are so much better then Savage junk! I have 8 guns in the gun shop right now and I don’t have one single Savage in my collection for a reason! Been collecting 60+ years and I reload and hunt too. I bought a cheap Savage 110 and only had it for a couple days until I got it to the range and I stopped by a friend who had a couple sons and gave him the rifle for free and they messed with it and gave it back so I donated it to my old boss who has a bunch of rifles and the last I heard he traded it in for something else after not getting it to shoot good! Better to pay too much and get what you need then not enough and get junk. I buy a whole lot of used rifles and I never pay more then it’s worth by ruling that it will need a new barrel before I even buy the rifle!
@@edwardabrams4972 I bought a perfectly fantastic shooting new 300WM stainless Tikka T3x Lite. Put a Stocky's Stock on it that was inletted for a Proof barrel, which I also bought in 7mm 8 twist, pre-fit for Tikka chambered in 7PRC. No regrets. Still have the factory Tikka 300WM stainless barrel I'll keep as a spare for a clone Tikka I have also chambered in 300WM but THEN just got a bargain on another new Tikka T3x Hunter with a wood stock NIB delivered for $750, also in 300WM!
Did the gunsmith borescope it to see if it is a copper mine inside because you might need to clean the heck out of it with JB Bore paste.
No, he didn't, but that's an option might have to try that too.
Whenever you put a suppressor on, use a caliber appropriate suppressor alignment rod. Every time. Aside from that, this is a 110% budget rifle setup. These are the results i would expect for what you spent. I'd buy a prefiit Bartlein and bring the whole damn thing to a gunsmith and have it true'd up and headspaced. Personally i'd go .300PRC if you need a heavy round like that. $60 a box everywhere around here.
Ive heard nothing but good things about that rifle except the pic rails always come loose but could have a bad barrel
Yea, got a new steel rail coming. It might be the barrel tho.
Savage is really sensitive to action screw torque and the rear tang area under the safety being free floated.
With every savage that I’ve had to tune, the front action screw torque was between 30 and 50 inch lbs. and the rear was around 20 and the groups would close right up.
Thanks, I will try that too.
I had savage with crooked installed barrel, .... after sanding back I received less crooked. I am done with savages for my lifetime. Highly not recommended
You should have sent it back to Savage. They have excellent customer service. My buddy buys them all the time, and has had to send a couple of them in for small issues. You kind of screwed up by having a smith touch it. Now you have no proof that your smith did not mess it up. Be prepared for Savage to make that assumption as well. Before you screw up anymore, I'd be contacting Savage. That ammo costs way too much to be burning it up in an ill rifle. I've seen a couple of these rifles shoot poorly, but I just assumed it was the guys pulling the trigger. My buddy has one, and we can both put 5 shots into 3/4", so I know they can shoot well.
Should be a fun gun. At a first glance, I would take to bipod to shoot off the led sled. Just like your swivel stud hitting the bag can throw things off, so can the bipod ramming into the bag.
I would shoot a group prone with a rear bag off the bipod, see how it does. Take the bipod off, shoot off the led sled and see how it does.
Those would be a few cost effective things to try before a new barrel, gunsmith work, etc.
338 Lapua is a monster, but for LR hunting it doesn’t do much a 300 PRC or custom setup 300 RUM can’t AT a distance I’m assuming you’d shoot game (~1,000 yards) with the lapua. Good luck!
Thanks for your input, I will try that.
I had horrible luck with hornady precision hunter and my 6.5 prc weatherby vanguard. It shoots my hand loads 1/2 moa. The hornady was 3 inch groups.
You shouldn’t have a bedding problem with an HS Precision stock but worth checking out.
I haven't had the best of experience with savage. before you told us, i was wondering if it was a savage thread issue. other than that, enjoyed your video
Thanks for watching.
Barrel not fully free floated?
Base or rings coming loose?
Does it group without the suppressor?
Did it group before you had the barrel rethreaded?
Was the barrel cut and then re crowned?
Barrel is free floated,
Rings and base are tight to spec,
Did not group with or without suppressor,
It did not group before threads were re cut.
The barrel was cut and re crowned after suppressor incident.
I got a steel base coming, going to try different scope with different weights and brand ammo. And check everything else before I decide to put a new barrel on it. Thanks for watching.
I'd have to imagine either your bolt face is off or your lockup lugs aren't engaging true. If it was a muzzle crown issue your wouldn't get any consistency whatsoever and you did have a couple of halfway decent groups. Untrue lockup, if it isn't TOO awful bad, will sometimes fall into a consistent string. But not to often with your big magnums. That rifle was a quality control nightmare it seems. I'd bet it was made at the end of life for the CNC cutting bits.
Yea, definitely a lot of problems for this gun. Thanks for watching.
Sub standard rifle and scope, have a reputable smith build you a rifle, Rem 700 action and a name brand barrel and a decent stock, do a load work up and you’ll be set, stay away from junk that will let you down
I've seen a handful of factory rifles that came with crooked threads not noticed until you ruin your suppressor.
Yea lesson learned for me.