Some people are saying the scope is way too high, and I definitely agree. Some people think your barrel is bad, and i think maybe not. Lap the barrel and get your scope set up appropriately. Aside from those suggestions, when using the tuner, do not adjust it so far. Fire 2 shots, adjust it from 0-1, then fire 2 and adjust from 1-2. Do this till maybe you get to 6. Also, you need to chrono all this ammo. If the ES is high, the ammo is truly crap which means no amount of tuning will be significant.
Man - that's got to be frustrating. I've had several Savage bolt guns (newest one is probably 8 years old) and they've all been ~1 MOA or better. I hope Savage can get you fixed up - trying to diagnose problems with the price of .338 Lapua ammo is an expensive endeavor.
You have reason,i have a same 308 and my grouping are half moa and less all a time and many time with my reload is .250 moa it,s not difficult 5 shots groups not 3.
Keep in mind that I'm right over in Cody and I hand load .338 Lapua. Save that brass and we can make new and better ammunition out of it. I'd be curious to measure that fired brass to see if the head space is correctly set on that rifle. I'd also be curious to run a bore scope through it. Savage has been having serious quality control issues for several years now so I wouldn't rule out anything. My .338 Lapua is a 111 Long Range Hunter that I got back in 2013 or 2014 and with my hand loads it shoots far better than sub minute groups. Your rifle has a much better stock and a little heavier barrel and it should shoot better than mine so there is definitely something wrong.
Yea, when I get it back from the factory, I will see what they did. I might go with a new barrel. I do like the gun and would like to keep it. I am keeping my brass and one day do plan on reloading.
I am a 60+ year gun collector reloader and hunter and it sounds like your hitting most of the bases, just make a organized list and follow it all the way through and most of the time you will get it but the most important thing is be patient and enjoy the journey
You can turn the tuner brake out to 28. I just sent my Savage back to them. Barrel would foul up in 15 rounds to where shots at 100 would drop 5 inches. I hope they put a new barrel on it so I can sell it. 6.5prc by the way... I can put 50 rounds through my Christiansen with no accuracy degradation. Savage use to have a good reputation.
When you make a change to the tuner brake, it may require you to change your zero after to move it back to where you want. Continue adjusting the tuner break, without any concern for WHERE it is impacting in relation to your point of aim… just make sure the points of impact are as close together as you can get them, THEN readjust your zero to the new setting on the tuner brake. I’m pretty sure Eric Cortina has a video explaining exactly this, though in his own words obviously.
I would give the barrel a really good clean back to shiny and give it another go, never know it might like being clean, keep up the great content mate cheers Yogi 🤙✌️
Put a bore scope in the chamber and see if the chamber is straight to the bore. If they did a garbage job threading the barrel the chamber probably isn’t in line with the bore either.
A peek down that barrel with a scope would be really interesting to see. If Savage warranty doesn't cover it and according to price, rebarrel with a prefit. A go gauge, check your recoil lug for same thickness around. If not square get a recoil lug, (around 30 bucks usually), barrel nut, wrench to fit barrel nut. Do the change yourself. Someone close by may have the tools and experience if you don't feel comfortable and be willing to help you. If I was closer I would offer the tools and help. Also some of the barrel manufacturers sell new take offs, but after this I would rebarrel with a good brand. Especially since you like the basic rifle and calliber. Just my humble opinion. Hope you have it stacking next range report. Peace and health to all. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks for the reply. I will see what the factory says and go from there. If they fix it, great, but if they dont, I will purchase a custom barrel for it. I do like the gun and already have a lot of time and money in it, so I'm sticking with it. Thanks for watching.
Trust me It need another barrel, that's why it was sold to start with. I had 2 rifles that hat had to be returned 110 BA 300 WM, AND A MODEL 12 LRP 260 BOTH GUNS HAD DEFECTIVE BARRELS THEY WERE JUNK STRAIGHT FROM THE FACTORY. THE RIFLES THEY SENT ME TO REPLACE THEM ARE GREAT SHOOTERS
Ive been shooting a Browning A-bolt SS in 7mm Rem mag with the BOSS adjustable break for a few years, love it! I bought the gun used and thought the BOSS was kind of gimmicky but I wanted a brake so I could shoot more and find out what factory load my gun liked. Once i figured out the BOSS I simply tuned it to the ammo I wanted to shoot. Did Eric give you any base line settings or recommendations? Every different bullet/load combination will have different setting on the brake. If you are shooting Hornady ammo for hunting that's what you tune that brake for. Forget about shooting that bargain ammo for a base line.
@@edwardabrams4972 I was really lucky with my rifle! I spent an afternoon on the beach with, if I remember right, 3 boxes of ammo. I got the Winchester supremes loaded with Nosler 165s dialed in well under 1 moa. I went and bought 2 more boxes and that’s what I’m still using 15 years later. Since I don’t hand load it that Boss probably saved me a few bucks trying to find a good shooting factory round. I mess around with T3 in 223 shooting all sorts of factory ammo chasing accuracy, cheaper and easy on the shoulder!
I had the same Rifle about 11 years ago and it was a bad experience failure to extract Brass. I had to carry a cleaning rod to push out spent cases broken extractors weak ejector so I got rid of it and made it someone else’s problem. It’s well known that HornadyPrecision Hunter is anything but Precision shoots like shit. Using your left hand on the rear bag will probably help your shooting instead of having it halfway down the stock. Wish you good luck.
I suggest a horizontal line with target points 2-3” apart for minimal movement from shot to shot. It just creates consistency. I personally I’m not fond of savage. Just too many flaws in manufacturing inconsistent from my experience. One may be a tack driver and the next can’t shoot smaller than 2 moa .
You might thing about the 300wsm it shoots big bullets and is very accurate and uses a lot less powder! It also holds the 1,000 yard record if I remember right! I can hunt with any cartridge out there being a 60+ year collector but the 300wsm is one of if not the best and there is plenty of brass and reloading products available for it
@@Guidedhunts I've got a Tikka 300WSM all factory but I modified the chamber with my JGS reamer to seat bullets out further. Works well. I have 3 loads, all excellent - 150 Barnes TSX with Superformance, 168 Barnes TTSX with IMR4350, and 180 Accubonds with StaBall 6.5 I JUST got my newest 300WSM barrel from Brux, 9 twist, 4 groove, #4 contour, 24" long, cut, crowned, bead blasted by my builder, fits the Terminus Zeus quick change long action. I bought 2 bolts for it, one mag face, one standard. If there'a anything I would encourage you to do down the road is get this action. You can swap out barrels yourself by loosening 2 set screws. I just left the range, day 2, testing my new 300WSM with 190 Speer Impact, 190 Nosler ABLR, and 210 Berger VLDs. So far the 210 Berger VLD is the winner with Reloder 22 and no pressure at 2842fps. The other barrel for this action is my 270-7PRC. I'm using an 8 twist K&P barrel, 4 groove. Steel comes from Germany. I'm testing 170 Berger VLDs and 165 Nosler ABLRs but concentrating on the Bergers for now. I'm very pleased. It is doing better than a 6.8 Western as of today. Top load as of an hour ago and still no signs of pressure is 3144fps If you decide to go 300WSM, which I HIGHLY recommend, make sure you get your builder to use a modified reamer to open the body 0.002 and have a base to ogive length so that it fits a long action. For example, my 210 Berger VLD tested today has a base to ogive length of 2.675 at the lands. If you want specs on my reamer let me know
@@Guidedhunts If you opt to build a custom Tikka 300WSM definitely get a 4 groove cut-rifled barrel. I've got 8 twist, 9 twist, and 10 twist. Don't forget this but the slowest twist that will stabilize your bullet of choice is going to be the most accurate and fastest, generally speaking. Don't buy into all the latest hype (like I kinda did early on), where you need all these really fast twist rate barrels. My builder hunted with a 190 grain bullet in his 300WSM that had a 13 twist barrel and he shot quarter MOA. I've got more barrels on order with slower twist rates in 30 cal.
@derekmcmurry4263 thanks for all the information. I'm not exactly sure what I am going to do with this rifle. I was thinking of trying a KP barrel, I have heard good things and they are only hour and half away. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts Ken is a good guy to work with. I've got quite a few of his barrels. He's also pretty fast at turn around. Prices are going up every year. If anything, get a barrel on order from him sooner than later. If you're going 300WSM, I personally don't see any need to go with a bullet heavier that 210, just my opinion. Berger recommends 1-11 twist or faster for that bullet. I've got a 10 twist Brux barrel ready for pick up and I'm getting it chambered with my 300WSM reamer as well
Yea, I am going to start. I bought a rcbs turret press. And I am slowly buying components that I need. The 338 factory ammo is expensive. Thanks for watching.
Took my 110 in 338lm about 60rds to foul the bore and deliver better accuracy. Not gonna touch the bore until accuracy drops off. Also i wouldnt reccommend skipping numbers on the tuner.
Savage is a good company and I hope the video makes you money to pay for the ammo. However, this is a good example on “You get what you pay for” those rifles are about $1200 new. Probably ~$750 used. You have shot ~$350 in ammo and ~$250 for the muzzlebreak. Not to mention the hours used to get it to barely acceptable accuracy. For ~$1600 you can get a Christiansen Arms, entry-level 338 or for ~$1900 You can get a Ruger Precision Rifle. Both rifles should be able to easily perform under 1MOA with match grade ammo. Both are only 1-2 more shifts of overtime more than what is already in to the current budget. I am enjoying your video series. I cannot wait to see this rifle all set up and ready to hunt.
Thanks for watching. You are right about everything you said. I could have saved and got something more expensive that would have shot out of the box. In the end, it would have been cheaper than what I am dealing with. But here's how I see it now, knowing there is a problem. I don't want to pass it on to someone else. I am going to get it fixed now. And film the process.
I too am in a pickle with my brand new Savage 110 Precision rifle just used it a couple days ago to zero it, set up a target at 50 yards after bore sighting it after 3 shots it was in the bull so I moved to 100 and it groups like a 12 ga shooting 00 buck !!! all over the target, I'm using Hornady Match ammo 225 gr @ 115.00 a box here in Newfoundland and I can not get anything else to try in it only the 225 gr ammo, I'm a reloader so I bought a set of Dies when I bought the gun and last night I reloaded the 15 pieces of brass I had used to set up the gun and try to group it, the only 30 cal I had on hand is 180 gr so I reloaded it and shot it today 2 five shot groups one was 1.6 and one was 1.4 and on the 1.4 group 3 shots were cloverleafed just over the bull so it likes the 180 gr a lot better than the 225 gr but I bought the damn thing for long range shooting so I gotta find a long bullet with a high BC that it likes cause 180 gr hunting bullets are not going to cut it, living in Newfoundland don't help either cause you can't get anything and if you luck out and find something ya gotta sell yer youngsters to buy it, just paid 121.55 for a pound H1000 powder when I started reloading years ago a pound of powder was 25.00 Oh me nerves !!!, will be following yer channel and wish ya luck getting yer boom stick working good...............Al
Thanks for watching. Sorry you are dealing with this, too. I shipped mine back to the factory and told them everything. So I am waiting to see what they say.
I'm not a fan of your choice of scope rings, but to each their own. Generally speaking cantilever mounts are intended for AR platform rifles which considerably less recoil than the .338 Lapua you're shooting. I'm a big fan of Warne and Talley rings. Precision Hunter ammo also isn't very precision. Check out HalfMileSnipers videos on the stuff.
When a rifle is shooting that bad, something is wrong. The first place to look would be your scope and/or mounts. Check the action screws, bedding, floating. If all of that is good, then the barrel is probably garbage. A tuner is not going to save that rifle.
I would say go to a 26" 300 PRC, but I'm guessing you just really want a 338 Lapua. If that's the case, at $4 - $6 per shot, cost of an EC Tuner and now shipping charges, you could have re-barreled the rifle and pretty much been guaranteed a sub-MOA gun. I have a .308 Savage Model 10 Tactical that is also super finicky. I would call it maybe a MOA rifle if I tune a load for it, but that's not good enough for me. My last two outings with it shooting factory Gold Medal Match, it shot about 1.5 MOA. This rifle does some really weird stuff, like a 14" shift in POI going from 168 grain Gold Medal Match to 168 grain Nosler hunting loads. It's the only rifle I own that I can not bore sight and get on paper at 100 yards. With every rifle I own, I can bore sight and be within 6 inches. This rifle, will be 30+ inches off in a random direction when I bore sight. I think Savage uses bad steel for their barrels. Bad steel can cause bad barrel vibrations. They have a good reputation for producing accurate rifles, which is why I bought it, but that has not been my experience. My rifle is 15 years old, how old is yours? Maybe it was a bad run of steel for a short time.
I never looked up when the gun was manufactured. This gun did the same as yours bore sighting. I had to do it at 25 yards first. The gun is a lemon. I do like the rifle other than it doesn't shoot. I still might put a new barrel on it. Going to see what factory says first. Thanks for watching.
Sounded like you aren't keeping that scope on the 338. If you are going to pair the VariX and bolt gun I recommend changing rings and set the scope as close to the action as possible. Best of luck
Turning it into a long term project will be fun but can and will get expensive. I think you’re going to find out you will need a new barrel. Hopefully savage will swap it out. I saw another comment that you don’t reload, save your brass maybe you’ll find someone who can. Regardless even if you have to pay someone, will be way cheaper than buying factory hopefully for a better product depending on the reloader.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question but I was wondering if you borescoped the barrel. I have a Tikka CTR that averages ~0.5 MOA for 5-shot groups but they blow up if the gun gets too much copper buildup. Before I got a borescope I was perplexed and thought my gun just stopped shooting well. Once I checked with a borescope I could see there was an obscene amount of copper in the barrel. Cleaning down to bare metal shrunk the groups back to 0.5 MOA. Anyway, since you aren't the original owner, there's a good chance that gun has never been cleaned properly...Ever... That said, if you already did, I would send it back to Savage. It shouldn't be your problem and 338 Lapua is expensive.
I did not bore scope it. I don't have one. But I did clean it the best I could. It didn't really help. So it's going back to the factory. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts Good move. That's what I would do. That said, you can get a decent borescope for about $55 now. Checking a rifle that you think is clean with a borescope really is an eye opening experience. I’m sure one 20 round box of 338 Lapua costs more than $55. Don’t step over dollars to pick up dimes.
I have a savage 110 UL in 7prc and have not been able to get anything under 2” groups. The bolt lift is soooooo heavy as well. I’m wondering if I have carbon ring problems? No idea…..
My Father in law got a savage 7prc with the carbon barrel. And that gun shoots awesome. I feel your pain, though when it's your gun and doesn't work right.
Hey, I just wanted you to know that those rifles are capable of excellent accuracy. I have the exact same rifle as you do, but I have a McMillan A5 stock on mine. I handload for mine, and at 200 yards, I consistently get .750" groups for 3 shots. I have shot .5" groups at 200 yards on occasion. The only issue I had with mine was weak extraction, I sent it back to Savage and they fixed it for no charge. Im sorry that yours is giving you so much trouble.
Thanks for your input. I almost want to just have a custom barrel put on and be done with it. I mean savage might charge me if they deem the barrel shot out. Not sure what I will do yet.
It was temporary to try a different scope. If inever get the gun back from the factory, I will post another video on all the new components I'm going with.
A buddy and I both bought savage rifles at the same time both in 6.5 Creedmoor and his shot half moa all day and mine looked like a drunk monkey was at the trigger. I did all kinds of stuff on it and even let my buddy try it and nothing worked. Do you guide antelope hunts?
Other than the barrel threads and it not shooting. I haven't had any issues with the bolt or ejecting. The action is plain Jane but works as it should.
@@Guidedhunts I haven't had any barrel thread issues. Mine is just picky with ammo. Shoots sub moa with gold medal match ammo. The hornady match ammo is hit or miss
I have the exact same gun and my worst group is just over an inch and best is half inch. I would see what Savage has to say, since the threads were cut off center from factory. The barrel just might be a lemon? I have several Savages and all can shoot sub MOA with good loads. If you can get a custom barrel for 3 to 4 hundred, I would seriously consider that! I would not ditch the Savage just yet!!
I would send back u have done everything right if they cant fix it get a 300 prc lot cheaper to shoot might get half inch groups mine shoots 3 inches at 500 yards can hunt any animal u want ..good job
Get a lower scope mount and a higher quality one. Those are made for ar15s not designed to handle heavy recoil from a 338 could definatly see that being an issue.
It's a temporary scope pulled from an AR Just to check to see if the original scope was bad. It's not the final scope/rings for the gun. Thanks for watching.
Channel "BackFire" just did a video about his Sako shooting like a scatter gun.. He mentioned a podcast by Ron Spomer that covered barrel fouling from different types of ammo screwing up patterns.. Said that cleaning advice saved his Sako from the trash heap...
I may have missed it ? Do you reload ? And what gr bullets have you tried ? Im only a few hours from you and an FFL and love problem children 😂😂😂 keeps my mind busy just getting my youtube going cuz i work too much !
I don't reload, and I know if I did, I could probably get it to shoot better, but. I want it to shoot with factory first before I explore reloading. Thanks for watching.
I know I pulled the scope from my AR just to try and make sure the other scope was not the problem. It's only temporary. It will not be the final scope/rings for the gun.
if i were you i would reload on that gun the better the ES on that gun the better the tuner will work. i have 7 of these tuners but i reload. the problem you will have with factory ammo is you need to buy big quantities of lott ammo. if you buy random boxes of ammo you will need to retune a lot
To shoot 338 Lapua you need to load yourself and stick with the 285 grain or 300 grain bullets, it will bankrupt you buying ammo for that thing maybe rethink this if you do not reload like 300 PRC lots of factory ammo and just about same caliber more than you need for anything in North America
I appreciate the comment. And yea, it's getting expensive. I am going to wait to see what the factory says. But yea I will eventually get into reloading. And I might have to change to a 300 prc.
I’m sure you done some video watching on the tuner break but if not. My opinion I think you’re adjusting it to much from what I have seen on Erik’s videos on it.
@@Guidedhunts i understand that too .338 isn’t cheap Might consider investing in reloading. It could help lessen the cost on those big calibers and you still get the same bullet just optimizing it for your rifle. If you can do the testing.
@erniecummings9255 I just got the rifle back from savage. They stated the barrel was bad and wanted me to pay 241 dollars because I wasn't the original owner. So I said no. I took it to my gunsmith to have a custom barrel put on it. I will make another video when I get it back and put together.
The scope is temporary pulled from another gun just to make sure it wasn't the other scope that was off. It's not the final scope that will be on the rifle.
I’m at 6:30 in! Stop the video take that pepprr mount off asap! Get you some warn horizontal split medium rings please!!!! Ur scope is stupidly mounted way to high right now ! That is ridiculous!
It's a temporary scope pulled from an AR . I needed to see if the scope in the first video was the issue. This is not the scope and rings that will stay on this rifle.
@@Guidedhunts all you have to do is box test the scope. If it tracks in a square and ends up back at starting point then it’s good! I have seen people in the past trash a perfectly good scope because they had the rings too tight
I will say if you want to sale that rifle I can get the ammo that I know it will love ...... just like my Savage 110 6.5 Creedmoor and if you would like to know the ammo I use I can send you a photo......
Do yourself a favour and buy an aftermarket pre-fit barrel. Really your tests with the tuner are looking more like a 1.5-2moa rifle. Put on a quality pre-fit and run the tuner brake on zero and find a load that gets you what you want for groups. Use the tuner to tune for conditions.
Scope is mounted why too high, sling studs are still in the stock causing you issues under recoil . You as a guide should learn more about rifles and proper shooting skills , this video made everyone become stupider.
Some people are saying the scope is way too high, and I definitely agree. Some people think your barrel is bad, and i think maybe not. Lap the barrel and get your scope set up appropriately. Aside from those suggestions, when using the tuner, do not adjust it so far. Fire 2 shots, adjust it from 0-1, then fire 2 and adjust from 1-2. Do this till maybe you get to 6. Also, you need to chrono all this ammo. If the ES is high, the ammo is truly crap which means no amount of tuning will be significant.
Man - that's got to be frustrating. I've had several Savage bolt guns (newest one is probably 8 years old) and they've all been ~1 MOA or better. I hope Savage can get you fixed up - trying to diagnose problems with the price of .338 Lapua ammo is an expensive endeavor.
You have reason,i have a same 308 and my grouping are half moa and less all a time and many time with my reload is .250 moa it,s not difficult 5 shots groups not 3.
Keep in mind that I'm right over in Cody and I hand load .338 Lapua. Save that brass and we can make new and better ammunition out of it. I'd be curious to measure that fired brass to see if the head space is correctly set on that rifle. I'd also be curious to run a bore scope through it. Savage has been having serious quality control issues for several years now so I wouldn't rule out anything. My .338 Lapua is a 111 Long Range Hunter that I got back in 2013 or 2014 and with my hand loads it shoots far better than sub minute groups. Your rifle has a much better stock and a little heavier barrel and it should shoot better than mine so there is definitely something wrong.
Yea, when I get it back from the factory, I will see what they did. I might go with a new barrel. I do like the gun and would like to keep it. I am keeping my brass and one day do plan on reloading.
I am a 60+ year gun collector reloader and hunter and it sounds like your hitting most of the bases, just make a organized list and follow it all the way through and most of the time you will get it but the most important thing is be patient and enjoy the journey
Thanks for watching. 👍
You can turn the tuner brake out to 28. I just sent my Savage back to them. Barrel would foul up in 15 rounds to where shots at 100 would drop 5 inches. I hope they put a new barrel on
it so I can sell it. 6.5prc by the way... I can put 50 rounds through my Christiansen with no accuracy degradation. Savage use to have a good reputation.
I’ve had issues with that Burris scope mount! I’d recommend Warne rings! Just my opinion good luck
When you make a change to the tuner brake, it may require you to change your zero after to move it back to where you want. Continue adjusting the tuner break, without any concern for WHERE it is impacting in relation to your point of aim… just make sure the points of impact are as close together as you can get them, THEN readjust your zero to the new setting on the tuner brake. I’m pretty sure Eric Cortina has a video explaining exactly this, though in his own words obviously.
I would give the barrel a really good clean back to shiny and give it another go, never know it might like being clean, keep up the great content mate cheers Yogi 🤙✌️
Now that you took the BIPOD OFF, it’s not screwing up your lead sled. You’re welcome! 🙂👍
Great video! Can’t wait to see what the factory says
Put a bore scope in the chamber and see if the chamber is straight to the bore. If they did a garbage job threading the barrel the chamber probably isn’t in line with the bore either.
A peek down that barrel with a scope would be really interesting to see.
If Savage warranty doesn't cover it and according to price, rebarrel with a prefit. A go gauge, check your recoil lug for same thickness around. If not square get a recoil lug, (around 30 bucks usually), barrel nut, wrench to fit barrel nut. Do the change yourself. Someone close by may have the tools and experience if you don't feel comfortable and be willing to help you. If I was closer I would offer the tools and help. Also some of the barrel manufacturers sell new take offs, but after this I would rebarrel with a good brand. Especially since you like the basic rifle and calliber.
Just my humble opinion.
Hope you have it stacking next range report.
Peace and health to all.
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks for the reply. I will see what the factory says and go from there. If they fix it, great, but if they dont, I will purchase a custom barrel for it. I do like the gun and already have a lot of time and money in it, so I'm sticking with it. Thanks for watching.
I hope Savage comes through for you. I've never been a fan of Savage except for the Model 99. Good luck and stay safe!!! 😉😉😉
Thanks for watching. Hope they do something.
Savage is usually extremely accurate. I'm not a savage fan but you do have a 🍋. I hear savage has best in class warranty
Shoot 0 , 1 , 2 and if all three are decent then set it at one. If it tunes at 8,9,10 set it at 8 etc. Look at the verticle over the horizontal.
Thanks
Trust me
It need another barrel, that's why it was sold to start with.
I had 2 rifles that hat had to be returned 110 BA 300 WM, AND A MODEL 12 LRP 260 BOTH GUNS HAD DEFECTIVE BARRELS
THEY WERE JUNK STRAIGHT FROM THE FACTORY.
THE RIFLES THEY SENT ME TO REPLACE THEM ARE GREAT SHOOTERS
Ive been shooting a Browning A-bolt SS in 7mm Rem mag with the BOSS adjustable break for a few years, love it! I bought the gun used and thought the BOSS was kind of gimmicky but I wanted a brake so I could shoot more and find out what factory load my gun liked. Once i figured out the BOSS I simply tuned it to the ammo I wanted to shoot. Did Eric give you any base line settings or recommendations? Every different bullet/load combination will have different setting on the brake. If you are shooting Hornady ammo for hunting that's what you tune that brake for. Forget about shooting that bargain ammo for a base line.
I plan on using the ammo that shoots the best out of it, so I'm not even sure yet what that will be. Thanks for watching.
Those old bosses really work just takes some time and patience’s and good quality reloading products
@@edwardabrams4972 I was really lucky with my rifle! I spent an afternoon on the beach with, if I remember right, 3 boxes of ammo. I got the Winchester supremes loaded with Nosler 165s dialed in well under 1 moa. I went and bought 2 more boxes and that’s what I’m still using 15 years later. Since I don’t hand load it that Boss probably saved me a few bucks trying to find a good shooting factory round. I mess around with T3 in 223 shooting all sorts of factory ammo chasing accuracy, cheaper and easy on the shoulder!
I had the same Rifle about 11 years ago and it was a bad experience failure to extract Brass. I had to carry a cleaning rod to push out spent cases broken extractors weak ejector so I got rid of it and made it someone else’s problem. It’s well known that HornadyPrecision Hunter is anything but Precision shoots like shit. Using your left hand on the rear bag will probably help your shooting instead of having it halfway down the stock. Wish you good luck.
I suggest a horizontal line with target points 2-3” apart for minimal movement from shot to shot. It just creates consistency. I personally I’m not fond of savage. Just too many flaws in manufacturing inconsistent from my experience. One may be a tack driver and the next can’t shoot smaller than 2 moa .
You might thing about the 300wsm it shoots big bullets and is very accurate and uses a lot less powder! It also holds the 1,000 yard record if I remember right! I can hunt with any cartridge out there being a 60+ year collector but the 300wsm is one of if not the best and there is plenty of brass and reloading products available for it
That's true. That is also a great cartridge. I always thought of building a custom tikka in 300 wsm. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts I've got a Tikka 300WSM all factory but I modified the chamber with my JGS reamer to seat bullets out further. Works well. I have 3 loads, all excellent - 150 Barnes TSX with Superformance, 168 Barnes TTSX with IMR4350, and 180 Accubonds with StaBall 6.5
I JUST got my newest 300WSM barrel from Brux, 9 twist, 4 groove, #4 contour, 24" long, cut, crowned, bead blasted by my builder, fits the Terminus Zeus quick change long action. I bought 2 bolts for it, one mag face, one standard. If there'a anything I would encourage you to do down the road is get this action. You can swap out barrels yourself by loosening 2 set screws. I just left the range, day 2, testing my new 300WSM with 190 Speer Impact, 190 Nosler ABLR, and 210 Berger VLDs. So far the 210 Berger VLD is the winner with Reloder 22 and no pressure at 2842fps.
The other barrel for this action is my 270-7PRC. I'm using an 8 twist K&P barrel, 4 groove. Steel comes from Germany. I'm testing 170 Berger VLDs and 165 Nosler ABLRs but concentrating on the Bergers for now. I'm very pleased. It is doing better than a 6.8 Western as of today. Top load as of an hour ago and still no signs of pressure is 3144fps
If you decide to go 300WSM, which I HIGHLY recommend, make sure you get your builder to use a modified reamer to open the body 0.002 and have a base to ogive length so that it fits a long action. For example, my 210 Berger VLD tested today has a base to ogive length of 2.675 at the lands. If you want specs on my reamer let me know
@@Guidedhunts If you opt to build a custom Tikka 300WSM definitely get a 4 groove cut-rifled barrel. I've got 8 twist, 9 twist, and 10 twist. Don't forget this but the slowest twist that will stabilize your bullet of choice is going to be the most accurate and fastest, generally speaking. Don't buy into all the latest hype (like I kinda did early on), where you need all these really fast twist rate barrels. My builder hunted with a 190 grain bullet in his 300WSM that had a 13 twist barrel and he shot quarter MOA. I've got more barrels on order with slower twist rates in 30 cal.
@derekmcmurry4263 thanks for all the information. I'm not exactly sure what I am going to do with this rifle. I was thinking of trying a KP barrel, I have heard good things and they are only hour and half away. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts Ken is a good guy to work with. I've got quite a few of his barrels. He's also pretty fast at turn around. Prices are going up every year. If anything, get a barrel on order from him sooner than later. If you're going 300WSM, I personally don't see any need to go with a bullet heavier that 210, just my opinion. Berger recommends 1-11 twist or faster for that bullet. I've got a 10 twist Brux barrel ready for pick up and I'm getting it chambered with my 300WSM reamer as well
I watch a barrel maker who cleaned all the copper out of barrel and it closed the group to a ,25” moa.
I cleaned it until the patch was white before this video. Thanks for watching.
You should get into hand loading brother..i started getting way tighter groups even before I got good at it and learned what i know now.
Yea, I am going to start. I bought a rcbs turret press. And I am slowly buying components that I need. The 338 factory ammo is expensive. Thanks for watching.
great site. Plain and real.
Thanks for watching. Appreciate it.
Heck yeah. That’s a baddass rifle 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
You should have kept going around on the tuner. Keep going all the way around . it will keep changing until you get a better group.
Took my 110 in 338lm about 60rds to foul the bore and deliver better accuracy. Not gonna touch the bore until accuracy drops off. Also i wouldnt reccommend skipping numbers on the tuner.
I was limited on rounds. When I get the reloads, I will hit all the numbers.
Hate that scope mount. Especially for a .338. The point of contact with the rail should be 2 to 4 spread apart. Not 1 towards the rear of the rail.
Savage is a good company and I hope the video makes you money to pay for the ammo. However, this is a good example on “You get what you pay for” those rifles are about $1200 new. Probably ~$750 used. You have shot ~$350 in ammo and ~$250 for the muzzlebreak. Not to mention the hours used to get it to barely acceptable accuracy.
For ~$1600 you can get a Christiansen Arms, entry-level 338 or for ~$1900 You can get a Ruger Precision Rifle. Both rifles should be able to easily perform under 1MOA with match grade ammo. Both are only 1-2 more shifts of overtime more than what is already in to the current budget.
I am enjoying your video series. I cannot wait to see this rifle all set up and ready to hunt.
Thanks for watching. You are right about everything you said. I could have saved and got something more expensive that would have shot out of the box. In the end, it would have been cheaper than what I am dealing with. But here's how I see it now, knowing there is a problem. I don't want to pass it on to someone else. I am going to get it fixed now. And film the process.
I too am in a pickle with my brand new Savage 110 Precision rifle just used it a couple days ago to zero it, set up a target at 50 yards after bore sighting it after 3 shots it was in the bull so I moved to 100 and it groups like a 12 ga shooting 00 buck !!! all over the target, I'm using Hornady Match ammo 225 gr @ 115.00 a box here in Newfoundland and I can not get anything else to try in it only the 225 gr ammo, I'm a reloader so I bought a set of Dies when I bought the gun and last night I reloaded the 15 pieces of brass I had used to set up the gun and try to group it, the only 30 cal I had on hand is 180 gr so I reloaded it and shot it today 2 five shot groups one was 1.6 and one was 1.4 and on the 1.4 group 3 shots were cloverleafed just over the bull so it likes the 180 gr a lot better than the 225 gr but I bought the damn thing for long range shooting so I gotta find a long bullet with a high BC that it likes cause 180 gr hunting bullets are not going to cut it, living in Newfoundland don't help either cause you can't get anything and if you luck out and find something ya gotta sell yer youngsters to buy it, just paid 121.55 for a pound H1000 powder when I started reloading years ago a pound of powder was 25.00 Oh me nerves !!!, will be following yer channel and wish ya luck getting yer boom stick working good...............Al
Thanks for watching. Sorry you are dealing with this, too. I shipped mine back to the factory and told them everything. So I am waiting to see what they say.
@@Guidedhunts will be watching hope it doesn't take forever to get some news..............Al
I'm not a fan of your choice of scope rings, but to each their own. Generally speaking cantilever mounts are intended for AR platform rifles which considerably less recoil than the .338 Lapua you're shooting. I'm a big fan of Warne and Talley rings. Precision Hunter ammo also isn't very precision. Check out HalfMileSnipers videos on the stuff.
The scope was pulled off an AR. It's temporary just to see if the other scope was bad or not. This is not what will stay on the rifle.
When you mounted your scope on your rail did you push it forward on the rail so the recall of the gun doesn't move the scope
Yes, I did. And I double-checked it to make sure it didn't move. After i shot it. Thanks for watching.
I was lucky, I guess. My Sako TRG shot 2 MOA (5 shot groups) right out of the box. Just got better from there.
You are chasing a rabbit down the hole- trying to tune a gun with ammo you dont chronograph on a dirty barrel. Love your videos
When a rifle is shooting that bad, something is wrong. The first place to look would be your scope and/or mounts. Check the action screws, bedding, floating. If all of that is good, then the barrel is probably garbage. A tuner is not going to save that rifle.
I would say go to a 26" 300 PRC, but I'm guessing you just really want a 338 Lapua.
If that's the case, at $4 - $6 per shot, cost of an EC Tuner and now shipping charges, you could have re-barreled the rifle and pretty much been guaranteed a sub-MOA gun.
I have a .308 Savage Model 10 Tactical that is also super finicky. I would call it maybe a MOA rifle if I tune a load for it, but that's not good enough for me. My last two outings with it shooting factory Gold Medal Match, it shot about 1.5 MOA. This rifle does some really weird stuff, like a 14" shift in POI going from 168 grain Gold Medal Match to 168 grain Nosler hunting loads. It's the only rifle I own that I can not bore sight and get on paper at 100 yards. With every rifle I own, I can bore sight and be within 6 inches. This rifle, will be 30+ inches off in a random direction when I bore sight.
I think Savage uses bad steel for their barrels. Bad steel can cause bad barrel vibrations. They have a good reputation for producing accurate rifles, which is why I bought it, but that has not been my experience. My rifle is 15 years old, how old is yours? Maybe it was a bad run of steel for a short time.
I never looked up when the gun was manufactured. This gun did the same as yours bore sighting. I had to do it at 25 yards first. The gun is a lemon. I do like the rifle other than it doesn't shoot. I still might put a new barrel on it. Going to see what factory says first. Thanks for watching.
Sounded like you aren't keeping that scope on the 338. If you are going to pair the VariX and bolt gun I recommend changing rings and set the scope as close to the action as possible. Best of luck
Turning it into a long term project will be fun but can and will get expensive. I think you’re going to find out you will need a new barrel. Hopefully savage will swap it out. I saw another comment that you don’t reload, save your brass maybe you’ll find someone who can. Regardless even if you have to pay someone, will be way cheaper than buying factory hopefully for a better product depending on the reloader.
Thanks for watching. I'm thinking it's heading that way, too. Might get a new barrel if they dont do anything with it.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question but I was wondering if you borescoped the barrel. I have a Tikka CTR that averages ~0.5 MOA for 5-shot groups but they blow up if the gun gets too much copper buildup. Before I got a borescope I was perplexed and thought my gun just stopped shooting well. Once I checked with a borescope I could see there was an obscene amount of copper in the barrel. Cleaning down to bare metal shrunk the groups back to 0.5 MOA.
Anyway, since you aren't the original owner, there's a good chance that gun has never been cleaned properly...Ever...
That said, if you already did, I would send it back to Savage. It shouldn't be your problem and 338 Lapua is expensive.
I did not bore scope it. I don't have one. But I did clean it the best I could. It didn't really help. So it's going back to the factory. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts Good move. That's what I would do. That said, you can get a decent borescope for about $55 now. Checking a rifle that you think is clean with a borescope really is an eye opening experience. I’m sure one 20 round box of 338 Lapua costs more than $55. Don’t step over dollars to pick up dimes.
Good luck
I have a savage 110 UL in 7prc and have not been able to get anything under 2” groups. The bolt lift is soooooo heavy as well. I’m wondering if I have carbon ring problems? No idea…..
My Father in law got a savage 7prc with the carbon barrel. And that gun shoots awesome. I feel your pain, though when it's your gun and doesn't work right.
My M98k from 1941 in 3006 is better.. but bigger silensor might help? Insted of tuner..?
You were turning the tuner backwards instead of making another revolution on the brake. Keep going clockwise another revolution
I started at zero, went to 10, and then went from 10 back to zero with different ammo. Thanks for watching.
Hey, I just wanted you to know that those rifles are capable of excellent accuracy. I have the exact same rifle as you do, but I have a McMillan A5 stock on mine. I handload for mine, and at 200 yards, I consistently get .750" groups for 3 shots. I have shot .5" groups at 200 yards on occasion. The only issue I had with mine was weak extraction, I sent it back to Savage and they fixed it for no charge. Im sorry that yours is giving you so much trouble.
Thanks for your input. I almost want to just have a custom barrel put on and be done with it. I mean savage might charge me if they deem the barrel shot out. Not sure what I will do yet.
get rid of that elevated scope mount, get some Warne 514medium rings. and you will get a better cheek weld on that rifle!
It was temporary to try a different scope. If inever get the gun back from the factory, I will post another video on all the new components I'm going with.
A buddy and I both bought savage rifles at the same time both in 6.5 Creedmoor and his shot half moa all day and mine looked like a drunk monkey was at the trigger. I did all kinds of stuff on it and even let my buddy try it and nothing worked.
Do you guide antelope hunts?
Yes, I definitely got a lemon. And yes I do. Look up Trophy Ridge Outfitters. That's where I work.
I couldn't get the precision hunter ammo to group out of my 308 110 savage. The last round i shot was so hot it almost locked up my bolt
Other than the barrel threads and it not shooting. I haven't had any issues with the bolt or ejecting. The action is plain Jane but works as it should.
@@Guidedhunts I haven't had any barrel thread issues. Mine is just picky with ammo. Shoots sub moa with gold medal match ammo. The hornady match ammo is hit or miss
@@ethanharris5556some rifles just want to shoot reloads only. My 28 nosler christiansen mesa is that way.
My rifle is the same one you have be in the 6.5 Creedmoor
Thank,s for your video,you have a big problem,firearm or ammunition,i,m sorry for you.
Idk I think it’s your scope mounting. See what savage says very curious.
MaRk 4 steel.base is what I use ..why one pice rings ..to.high ..I also told u about the ec tuner
The scope is pulled from another rifle, easy to swap. It won't be what stays on it.
@Guidedhunts your doing good g
Job I think gun has a problem that's why they sold it ..
Have the same rifle, mine likes 300gr accubond over H1000.
Thanks, I appreciate the info. 👍
I have the exact same gun and my worst group is just over an inch and best is half inch. I would see what Savage has to say, since the threads were cut off center from factory. The barrel just might be a lemon? I have several Savages and all can shoot sub MOA with good loads. If you can get a custom barrel for 3 to 4 hundred, I would seriously consider that! I would not ditch the Savage just yet!!
I have faith that it will get fixed one way or the other. Thanks for watching.
Mark 4 steel I told u about ec tuner break I'm shooting quarter in
Ch on.all.my guns
I would send back u have done everything right if they cant fix it get a 300 prc lot cheaper to shoot might get half inch groups mine shoots 3 inches at 500 yards can hunt any animal u want ..good job
Appreciate the comment. I might go that route. I do like the 300 prc. 👍
300rum
@@albertlemont5471 i.got a 300rum can't find ammo in 2 years shooting a 7 prc. Now
That's going to be noisy
Get a lower scope mount and a higher quality one. Those are made for ar15s not designed to handle heavy recoil from a 338 could definatly see that being an issue.
It's a temporary scope pulled from an AR Just to check to see if the original scope was bad. It's not the final scope/rings for the gun. Thanks for watching.
Channel "BackFire" just did a video about his Sako shooting like a scatter gun.. He mentioned a podcast by Ron Spomer that covered barrel fouling from different types of ammo screwing up patterns.. Said that cleaning advice saved his Sako from the trash heap...
I may have missed it ? Do you reload ? And what gr bullets have you tried ? Im only a few hours from you and an FFL and love problem children 😂😂😂 keeps my mind busy just getting my youtube going cuz i work too much !
I don't reload, and I know if I did, I could probably get it to shoot better, but. I want it to shoot with factory first before I explore reloading. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts Totally understandable i get it trust me !
Scope mount used is a bad choice... That Burris cantilever mount is not intended to be used with a 338 LM.
I know I pulled the scope from my AR just to try and make sure the other scope was not the problem. It's only temporary. It will not be the final scope/rings for the gun.
if i were you i would reload on that gun
the better the ES on that gun the better the tuner will work. i have 7 of these tuners but i reload. the problem you will have with factory ammo is you need to buy big quantities of lott ammo. if you buy random boxes of ammo you will need to retune a lot
save me all your brass!!
I got 130 here. But I'm going to have them loaded.
dang lol ..ok ..thanks..
Thats just frustrating. Sorry abt ur rifle.
Yea, it stinks, but hopefully, they take care of it.
To shoot 338 Lapua you need to load yourself and stick with the 285 grain or 300 grain bullets, it will bankrupt you buying ammo for that thing maybe rethink this if you do not reload like 300 PRC lots of factory ammo and just about same caliber more than you need for anything in North America
I appreciate the comment. And yea, it's getting expensive. I am going to wait to see what the factory says. But yea I will eventually get into reloading. And I might have to change to a 300 prc.
I’m sure you done some video watching on the tuner break but if not. My opinion I think you’re adjusting it to much from what I have seen on Erik’s videos on it.
I was limited on ammo, so I went every 2 marks on the brake. Thanks for watching.
@@Guidedhunts i understand that too .338 isn’t cheap Might consider investing in reloading. It could help lessen the cost on those big calibers and you still get the same bullet just optimizing it for your rifle. If you can do the testing.
I’ve owned one Savage, rubbish gun and I got rid of it.
scope mount way too high .your not getting a good cheek wield
I know it is. I pulled it off another rifle just to try. It won't be what stays on it.
Wondering if barrel is seated good or possibly barrel was damaged when your first break blew apart
@erniecummings9255 I just got the rifle back from savage. They stated the barrel was bad and wanted me to pay 241 dollars because I wasn't the original owner. So I said no. I took it to my gunsmith to have a custom barrel put on it. I will make another video when I get it back and put together.
Holly shit your scope is way to high. Should be right down tight to the barrel w just a crack between the two. Not 3inches
The scope is temporary pulled from another gun just to make sure it wasn't the other scope that was off. It's not the final scope that will be on the rifle.
@@Guidedhunts ok I was gonna say really dude u chose that scope mount. 😆
Scope hight is irrelevant to accuracy. You just need a cheek piece to get your eye in the right place.
I’m at 6:30 in! Stop the video take that pepprr mount off asap! Get you some warn horizontal split medium rings please!!!! Ur scope is stupidly mounted way to high right now ! That is ridiculous!
It's a temporary scope pulled from an AR . I needed to see if the scope in the first video was the issue. This is not the scope and rings that will stay on this rifle.
@@Guidedhunts all you have to do is box test the scope. If it tracks in a square and ends up back at starting point then it’s good! I have seen people in the past trash a perfectly good scope because they had the rings too tight
I will say if you want to sale that rifle I can get the ammo that I know it will love ...... just like my Savage 110 6.5 Creedmoor and if you would like to know the ammo I use I can send you a photo......
Yea, man, what works for you?
Your skipping numbers literally small half number turns will make a huge difference on that tuner brake. Your just not using it right
I was limited on ammo. If I had 200 rounds I could do all the settings.
Rifles have natural dispersion, tuners are seemingly more to be a gimmick....
Do yourself a favour and buy an aftermarket pre-fit barrel. Really your tests with the tuner are looking more like a 1.5-2moa rifle. Put on a quality pre-fit and run the tuner brake on zero and find a load that gets you what you want for groups. Use the tuner to tune for conditions.
Scope is way to high
nothing worse than a rifle that will not shoot! You can waste so much time and effort and $$$. Buy quality. Cry once. Life is better.
Scope is mounted why too high, sling studs are still in the stock causing you issues under recoil . You as a guide should learn more about rifles and proper shooting skills , this video made everyone become stupider.