At this point you must take it for granted, but I say your bars and chains cut more square and true than most sawmills I've been around. Everything you do is a joy to watch.
Steve hi. Thanks for the vote of confidence. But,,, I'm not so sure that is true. Good, straight cutting chains are impressive to use for sure. Sometimes getting there is a process. It's always a work in progress for me. I've seen where the wood will cut a little bit differently from up Greenwood to around the point up Jacoby. Move into a new area and it may take 6/8 tweaks in the angle set up in two different weeks to get really close. Then maybe one or two more refinements to get them completely dialed. Elk River is a good example there. Down by the Bay they are extremely tough and you can have 2' of wood pull. Limbs as tough as nails, pushing 3/5 thousand foot trees off mid flight . (You can thank all the wind pounding on them for that). Get way back in there, depending upon where & how high on the ridge, you might be able to sneeze on the limbs and they drop off. Stumps pretty soft comparatively. Those that have never cut redwood, for years and all over the place, have definitely missed out on the subtleties and nuance. A good cutting fir chain, one that has the old growth melting off the stump, out in Weitchpec is a total waste of time in a redwood stand from my experience. Some fallers will have a couple of grinders. One for the coast and one for inland. Did I mention nuance??? Thanks for watching.
That 066 is some kind of angry. Nice job with the saw Jack, love to hear it run and it’s a treat to watch it sling chips everywhere. God Bless and be careful!
Man that 066 rips. I just picked up a husky 372 09 really low hr saw for super cheap Saturday it's making me like the husky even more probably my favorite saw
I really like that 661 with the maxy filter. You've dialed it in very nicely. I wonder how it will work in the Bush? Have you run this version in the woods? It's a shame the longevity may afflicted by the manufacturer's need to produce lower emissions. Would a lower oil ratio help?
d hi. Thanks. The Maxy system is a known and proven quantity for excellent filtration, improved air flow, as well as a pretty tough package in the "Bush". You will have less collateral damage of the element with this filter system than both a green weenie & a K & N because it's covered. I've used them quite a bit. There are some falling videos on this channel that show saws with maxys as well. I've tried down to 40:1, actually in a felling application. I've tried as lean as 60:1. I started at 40:1, then 42:1, then 45:1, etc. up to the 60:1 concentration. I did this in the same strip, back to back test samples over an 8 week time span. I tried mixing rich (again) recently in a felling application with my blend. I went back (also again) to the ~ 48/50:1 ratio I've been using since in the early '80s. One thing I always did was run good mix oil. If a guy is going to run crap mix oil then I imagine that he had better be mixing it rich. But you get "worser" gas mileage and I never have liked the way my saws ran when using a high mix oil concentration. Oil holds in latent heat as well. The higher the oil concentration the higher the residual heat you will experience. Not such an issue in the winter months. Not really helpful in the hot season. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Would you consider *my* mix to be suitable for ~48:1? I'm currently doing ~45:1 for my smaller stuff (cs2511t, 355t, cs590) and 40:1 in my 660's (clones, one big bored, both ported high compression ported pistons etc) Mixture is made of: Fresh, eth-free 91oct pump fuel, mixed immediately w/ Red Armor ($15/6gal of oil), am paying over $7/gal this way, would very much like your thoughts (am a small residential tree op so too much fuel to go with just canned, but small enough I want to maximize eth-free pump fuel, I immediately mix w/ the oil which has stabilizer in it already, and transfer it to those 950mL fuel cans so that there's less air around the stored fuel, and these are of course kept from heat&sun) Would switch back to Motomix now that Echo raised price on Red Armor, I chose latter because of half my saws being Echo's, my good polesaw too, would love to hear your thoughts esp on whether my "40:1 on big bore clone 660's and mid/higher 40's on tuned Echo climbsaws" is on-point! Would swap to Amsoil or whatever if necessary, I'm in FL and run hot-ish ported saws so - correct me if wrong - but my goal(s) should be lowest safe oil% and highest total-flow (because more flow means cooler operation, Blair's book has a chart showing plug temps based on flow rates, though obviously flow rate is highly restricted base on the build...still trying/hoping to find your # reco's for 660 platform, just did 99/81/125 on my big bore, with 24.25thou squish and about 1.25mm before-freeporting, wanted 100 for exhaust but overdid my center arch so it's really more like 99.5 to be fair but I can't round in a way that lets me say I 'hit all my numbers' lol ;D ) Would love hearing you talk #'s, find you seem to omit them in a way that almost seems intentional, I get it if you have a secret or two but regular old timing #'s surely you can share? Any pro builder, has cylinders out 'in public' that anyone could time, so would imagine it's not considered 'trade secret' is it? Legitimately curious, because I have a (popular) builder's cylinder on my shelf, it actually hung a ring so it's a destroyed 660 top-end example setup now, but he obviously gave it to me knowing I could(and did) immediately go checking his #'s, his transfer shape, and what he did to lowers/piston/crankcase which sadly was nothing to those 3.....but that let me rebuild it better & inspired such love in the 66* platform that I got a g660, more top end kits & pop-up's and read some books and really got-to it ;D )
@@joescissorhands141 hi. I'd get the H1-R from Bel-Ray. I'd mix it between 45 & 50:1. I shoot for ~ 98/100 octane. So I'd add in some boost. The non leaded versions like Turbo 108 or the NOS work well. I don't know your guy Blair. I'm not familiar with what is said. I have heard of printed documents with "information" by the "experts" that don't always hold true for saw applications though. My friend has a Bonneville record. Has a Harley that blew away the factory bike on won the San José Mile. Tuned for Jimmy Filice when he won the Daytona 200. My friend says that "your numbers" (read - what you are doing) are like your Holy Grail. You keep them tight to your chest. I'm purposeful about not sharing what I do, or don't do, internally. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 But man it'd be so easy for anyone with one of your saws to just blab!! Though I guess guys buying them, aren't using timing wheels, right? Can understand keeping personal #'s or understand where you're coming from but would love "#'s theory" from you even, I mean surely you can talk #'s without being saw-specific or, heck, being saw-specific on older models you don't do a lot of anymore (maybe that doesn't apply, but am guessing you don't see remotely as many 660's nowadays, maybe i'm wrong?) Thanks so much for the reply am gonna get the oct.booster as my eth-free is only 91oct, I keep it fresh & tightly sealed & temperate and typically was going closer to 40:1 so will alter-- when you said 45-50:1, may I ask what makes you give a range? Do you alter it for a given saw, based on conditions, or do you alter it based upon the saw IE bigger displacement gets 45, smaller climbsaws get 50? Had been repeatedly hearing about 40:1, even 32:1, on kit 660's and just shake my head I mean my understanding is 1% extra oil past optima is of detriment, not serious detriment but hurts power/performance/fuel efficiency/etc..
@Joe Scissorhands - I'd like to think that there are still a few out there with integrity! Those that come by "their numbers" honestly are never going to just hand them over because of someone's charm & good looks... Well, imho anyway Oil concentration is nearly in the same arena as oil choice. People make uninformed decisions all time regarding mix oil choice. Oil will hold in latent heat. The application needs to be a consideration. Saws run hot. Fundamental - less heat is better. On the other side - there is such a thing as a lack of lubrication starts ~ 60:1 near as I can tell. Thanks for watching.
Why are the cut-times showing such modest/minimal improvements for the better air systems? You'd said that Max setup flows nearly 2X the CFM of an OEM filter, but the #'s don't show anything of the sort....is there any chance there's a bottleneck elsewhere in the intake-tract? honestly on the 660 I look at that intake-tube, the rubber boot dealie, it has two indents inside it for where it passes the carb-wall, cannot help but think that's an area you could put a superior tube IF your carb & engine were setup to make-use of it, am still breaking-in my 56mm, 99.5/81/126 squish 24.5thou build (no freeport, intake & exhaust port surface-area's are, relatively speaking, still same relative-sizing as OEM ratio, only about 15% larger, 7.5% to account for 56mm setup, and remainder 'because it's ported' including piston & lowers heavily ported so it has a significantly larger bottom-end to fill like nearly 10cc's more, which also means my "top versus bottom displacement", even after the 56mm jug, is still shifted more to bottom-end which should push emphasis of power to higher RPM in my power-band, if I'm understanding that part correctly!
Kevin hi. Yes and no. As a side note, a good mechanic/tuner can make any vehicle function better. It's no different in/with saws. With that, I have not found a saw that is/was able to be altered and made to run better. Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
George hi. After the saw/s go through a few heat cycles, there is a bit of residual oil in the muffler. So if it is not long after that point and a saw test is filmed there will be that you are noticing. Thanks for watching.
How does a guy get some saw work done by you! I live in Washington and have a newer fresh 661 but would like it to be a nice stronger chip slinger! Love the saw as is just won't it to run at it best potential without going crazy on it! I love your videos thanks for all the info it helps a lot. Understand I am sure you are a bizzy man and get this all the time on here. Either way love the videos God-bless hope you're having a good week.
Scott hi. My email address is in the description area of most of the videos from the last two/three years. That's the best, first point of contact for me. They start struggling around 2000' and are having trouble at 3000' as was noted in the first video of this 5 video series. At around 4000' and in stockly form "prolly" want to think about leaving it in the truck. Thanks for watching.
That wood was from experimental hybridized trees. I never was able to get the actual species' names due to the lockdown during covid. It looked like a cottonwood a little bit. It also looked like an Aspen. It was growing out in a wind pounded field - not far from where a few railcars where blown off the tracks a couple of winter before this filming. You could lob the trees across rootwads, other trees, span 100', etc. They would just act like Gumby. It took a few stabs at getting the teeth angles dialed in to cut it well. Thanks for watching.
Randy hi. When looking at the timed runs & rpms that the 661 held in the cut before and after switching out the stockly air cleaner system there was a noticable difference. What the viewer cannot tell is how the saw feels in hand. And, that is unfortunate. The Max-flow system is a bolt on performance enhancer. Not only that, when property installed and as compared to the stockly HD2 option, NOTHING get by it. Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
Aaron hi. It's a carb adjustment screwdriver that a shop could order with their business name on it for advertising purposes. I picked it up in a saw shop back in the late '90s, in the absolute corner, on the Northern Oregon coast. Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
Έχουμε φτάσει 20 χρόνια μετά να μιλάμε για τεχνολογία & m- tronic και το still ms 066 παραμένει ένα κορυφαίο πριόνι που δεν έχει να ζηλέψει τίποτα από τον αντικαταστάτη του ms661 cm ούτε σε ισχύ,ούτε σε βάρος,ούτε σε στιβαρότητα αλλά πολύ περισσότερο ούτε σε αξιοπιστία & μακροζωία..!!
At this point you must take it for granted, but I say your bars and chains cut more square and true than most sawmills I've been around. Everything you do is a joy to watch.
Steve hi.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. But,,, I'm not so sure that is true. Good, straight cutting chains are impressive to use for sure. Sometimes getting there is a process. It's always a work in progress for me. I've seen where the wood will cut a little bit differently from up Greenwood to around the point up Jacoby. Move into a new area and it may take 6/8 tweaks in the angle set up in two different weeks to get really close. Then maybe one or two more refinements to get them completely dialed. Elk River is a good example there. Down by the Bay they are extremely tough and you can have 2' of wood pull. Limbs as tough as nails, pushing 3/5 thousand foot trees off mid flight . (You can thank all the wind pounding on them for that). Get way back in there, depending upon where & how high on the ridge, you might be able to sneeze on the limbs and they drop off. Stumps pretty soft comparatively.
Those that have never cut redwood, for years and all over the place, have definitely missed out on the subtleties and nuance.
A good cutting fir chain, one that has the old growth melting off the stump, out in Weitchpec is a total waste of time in a redwood stand from my experience. Some fallers will have a couple of grinders. One for the coast and one for inland.
Did I mention nuance???
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks very much for the reply. That's very interesting. I guess I'm not too old to learn something. Take care and be safe out there!
That 066 is some kind of angry. Nice job with the saw Jack, love to hear it run and it’s a treat to watch it sling chips everywhere. God Bless and be careful!
Yeah it was just plain mad at the wood!!!
Pro tip: you can watch series on flixzone. Been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Neil Wilder definitely, I have been using flixzone} for years myself :)
Those saws purr and then scream!
wow that 066 is a beast😯😯😯😯awsome work
Man that 066 rips. I just picked up a husky 372 09 really low hr saw for super cheap Saturday it's making me like the husky even more probably my favorite saw
I really like that 661 with the maxy filter. You've dialed it in very nicely. I wonder how it will work in the Bush? Have you run this version in the woods? It's a shame the longevity may afflicted by the manufacturer's need to produce lower emissions. Would a lower oil ratio help?
d hi.
Thanks.
The Maxy system is a known and proven quantity for excellent filtration, improved air flow, as well as a pretty tough package in the "Bush". You will have less collateral damage of the element with this filter system than both a green weenie & a K & N because it's covered.
I've used them quite a bit. There are some falling videos on this channel that show saws with maxys as well.
I've tried down to 40:1, actually in a felling application. I've tried as lean as 60:1. I started at 40:1, then 42:1, then 45:1, etc. up to the 60:1 concentration. I did this in the same strip, back to back test samples over an 8 week time span.
I tried mixing rich (again) recently in a felling application with my blend.
I went back (also again) to the ~ 48/50:1 ratio I've been using since in the early '80s.
One thing I always did was run good mix oil. If a guy is going to run crap mix oil then I imagine that he had better be mixing it rich. But you get "worser" gas mileage and I never have liked the way my saws ran when using a high mix oil concentration.
Oil holds in latent heat as well. The higher the oil concentration the higher the residual heat you will experience. Not such an issue in the winter months. Not really helpful in the hot season.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Would you consider *my* mix to be suitable for ~48:1? I'm currently doing ~45:1 for my smaller stuff (cs2511t, 355t, cs590) and 40:1 in my 660's (clones, one big bored, both ported high compression ported pistons etc) Mixture is made of: Fresh, eth-free 91oct pump fuel, mixed immediately w/ Red Armor ($15/6gal of oil), am paying over $7/gal this way, would very much like your thoughts (am a small residential tree op so too much fuel to go with just canned, but small enough I want to maximize eth-free pump fuel, I immediately mix w/ the oil which has stabilizer in it already, and transfer it to those 950mL fuel cans so that there's less air around the stored fuel, and these are of course kept from heat&sun) Would switch back to Motomix now that Echo raised price on Red Armor, I chose latter because of half my saws being Echo's, my good polesaw too, would love to hear your thoughts esp on whether my "40:1 on big bore clone 660's and mid/higher 40's on tuned Echo climbsaws" is on-point! Would swap to Amsoil or whatever if necessary, I'm in FL and run hot-ish ported saws so - correct me if wrong - but my goal(s) should be lowest safe oil% and highest total-flow (because more flow means cooler operation, Blair's book has a chart showing plug temps based on flow rates, though obviously flow rate is highly restricted base on the build...still trying/hoping to find your # reco's for 660 platform, just did 99/81/125 on my big bore, with 24.25thou squish and about 1.25mm before-freeporting, wanted 100 for exhaust but overdid my center arch so it's really more like 99.5 to be fair but I can't round in a way that lets me say I 'hit all my numbers' lol ;D )
Would love hearing you talk #'s, find you seem to omit them in a way that almost seems intentional, I get it if you have a secret or two but regular old timing #'s surely you can share? Any pro builder, has cylinders out 'in public' that anyone could time, so would imagine it's not considered 'trade secret' is it? Legitimately curious, because I have a (popular) builder's cylinder on my shelf, it actually hung a ring so it's a destroyed 660 top-end example setup now, but he obviously gave it to me knowing I could(and did) immediately go checking his #'s, his transfer shape, and what he did to lowers/piston/crankcase which sadly was nothing to those 3.....but that let me rebuild it better & inspired such love in the 66* platform that I got a g660, more top end kits & pop-up's and read some books and really got-to it ;D )
@@joescissorhands141 hi.
I'd get the H1-R from Bel-Ray.
I'd mix it between 45 & 50:1.
I shoot for ~ 98/100 octane. So I'd add in some boost. The non leaded versions like Turbo 108 or the NOS work well.
I don't know your guy Blair. I'm not familiar with what is said. I have heard of printed documents with "information" by the "experts" that don't always hold true for saw applications though.
My friend has a Bonneville record. Has a Harley that blew away the factory bike on won the San José Mile. Tuned for Jimmy Filice when he won the Daytona 200. My friend says that "your numbers" (read - what you are doing) are like your Holy Grail. You keep them tight to your chest. I'm purposeful about not sharing what I do, or don't do, internally.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 But man it'd be so easy for anyone with one of your saws to just blab!! Though I guess guys buying them, aren't using timing wheels, right? Can understand keeping personal #'s or understand where you're coming from but would love "#'s theory" from you even, I mean surely you can talk #'s without being saw-specific or, heck, being saw-specific on older models you don't do a lot of anymore (maybe that doesn't apply, but am guessing you don't see remotely as many 660's nowadays, maybe i'm wrong?) Thanks so much for the reply am gonna get the oct.booster as my eth-free is only 91oct, I keep it fresh & tightly sealed & temperate and typically was going closer to 40:1 so will alter-- when you said 45-50:1, may I ask what makes you give a range? Do you alter it for a given saw, based on conditions, or do you alter it based upon the saw IE bigger displacement gets 45, smaller climbsaws get 50? Had been repeatedly hearing about 40:1, even 32:1, on kit 660's and just shake my head I mean my understanding is 1% extra oil past optima is of detriment, not serious detriment but hurts power/performance/fuel efficiency/etc..
@Joe Scissorhands - I'd like to think that there are still a few out there with integrity!
Those that come by "their numbers" honestly are never going to just hand them over because of someone's charm & good looks... Well, imho anyway
Oil concentration is nearly in the same arena as oil choice. People make uninformed decisions all time regarding mix oil choice.
Oil will hold in latent heat. The application needs to be a consideration. Saws run hot.
Fundamental - less heat is better.
On the other side - there is such a thing as a lack of lubrication starts ~ 60:1 near as I can tell.
Thanks for watching.
Why are the cut-times showing such modest/minimal improvements for the better air systems? You'd said that Max setup flows nearly 2X the CFM of an OEM filter, but the #'s don't show anything of the sort....is there any chance there's a bottleneck elsewhere in the intake-tract? honestly on the 660 I look at that intake-tube, the rubber boot dealie, it has two indents inside it for where it passes the carb-wall, cannot help but think that's an area you could put a superior tube IF your carb & engine were setup to make-use of it, am still breaking-in my 56mm, 99.5/81/126 squish 24.5thou build (no freeport, intake & exhaust port surface-area's are, relatively speaking, still same relative-sizing as OEM ratio, only about 15% larger, 7.5% to account for 56mm setup, and remainder 'because it's ported' including piston & lowers heavily ported so it has a significantly larger bottom-end to fill like nearly 10cc's more, which also means my "top versus bottom displacement", even after the 56mm jug, is still shifted more to bottom-end which should push emphasis of power to higher RPM in my power-band, if I'm understanding that part correctly!
il take the 066 man thats an evil saw and legendary
All stick with my 66...
Both those saws look and sound great. Have you ever fiddled with any of the echo saws like the 620p or 800p just curious.
Kevin hi.
Yes and no. As a side note, a good mechanic/tuner can make any vehicle function better. It's no different in/with saws. With that, I have not found a saw that is/was able to be altered and made to run better.
Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
Good stuff!
Is it normal for smoke to come out of the muffler after you have stopped the engine ?. Thx
George hi. After the saw/s go through a few heat cycles, there is a bit of residual oil in the muffler. So if it is not long after that point and a saw test is filmed there will be that you are noticing.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thx man. Greetings from Romania. ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Super
How does a guy get some saw work done by you! I live in Washington and have a newer fresh 661 but would like it to be a nice stronger chip slinger! Love the saw as is just won't it to run at it best potential without going crazy on it! I love your videos thanks for all the info it helps a lot. Understand I am sure you are a bizzy man and get this all the time on here. Either way love the videos God-bless hope you're having a good week.
Scott hi.
My email address is in the description area of most of the videos from the last two/three years. That's the best, first point of contact for me.
They start struggling around 2000' and are having trouble at 3000' as was noted in the first video of this 5 video series. At around 4000' and in stockly form "prolly" want to think about leaving it in the truck.
Thanks for watching.
Still love my old 66 flat tops....run great ,but I think my two 056 Mag II have a torquey low end better then the 066.
What type of wood is that boss..never been to the west coast. Close but no cigar
That wood was from experimental hybridized trees. I never was able to get the actual species' names due to the lockdown during covid.
It looked like a cottonwood a little bit. It also looked like an Aspen.
It was growing out in a wind pounded field - not far from where a few railcars where blown off the tracks a couple of winter before this filming.
You could lob the trees across rootwads, other trees, span 100', etc. They would just act like Gumby.
It took a few stabs at getting the teeth angles dialed in to cut it well.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 you still doing saw work have one saved for you
Seems the air filter makes a big difference to. Or maybe i see it wrong.
Randy hi.
When looking at the timed runs & rpms that the 661 held in the cut before and after switching out the stockly air cleaner system there was a noticable difference. What the viewer cannot tell is how the saw feels in hand. And, that is unfortunate.
The Max-flow system is a bolt on performance enhancer. Not only that, when property installed and as compared to the stockly HD2 option, NOTHING get by it.
Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
I have a 660 carb. It's not bad.
what type of carb adjustmant tool do you use, it doesnt look like a screw driver
Aaron hi. It's a carb adjustment screwdriver that a shop could order with their business name on it for advertising purposes. I picked it up in a saw shop back in the late '90s, in the absolute corner, on the Northern Oregon coast.
Thanks for watching and blessings on this, His day.
hello, how was the ms 661 good or bad?
I am rudhra from Nepal how to buy Ms 661i need to buy not available in Nepal
Rudhra Gurung hi. Did you ever get a saw? I get side tracked with the in-house saw projects and things slip through the cracks, sorry.
yup
Έχουμε φτάσει 20 χρόνια μετά να μιλάμε για τεχνολογία &
m- tronic και το still ms 066 παραμένει ένα κορυφαίο πριόνι που δεν έχει να ζηλέψει τίποτα από τον αντικαταστάτη του ms661 cm ούτε σε ισχύ,ούτε σε βάρος,ούτε σε στιβαρότητα αλλά πολύ περισσότερο ούτε σε αξιοπιστία & μακροζωία..!!
1330 13500
661 10.min mark