Thank you for fixing this. Natalia and Mia deserve to be seen. With more experience Natalia would have sent this. Breakout year for her and Brooke - amazing to watch!
Oriane‘s commentary was one of the highlights of the women’s finals her happiness is contagious and her english is amazing and she was 16 back then if I’m not wrong
Appreciate the reupload. Hope Matt learns the rules though. It wouldn't have come down to time, Janja would still have won on count-back even if she had been slower.
@@xxxxxxxxxxxx_xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 7.22 Each competitor attempting a route will be ranked on that route in the following order: A) all competitors scored as TOP; B) all other competitors in descending order of the score awarded to that competitor, in relation to the Final round, if any competitors are tied following the ranking procedure of Article 7.22, their relative ranking shall be determined: 1) by count-back to their rankings from the preceding round; and 2) if following count-back, any competitors are tied in joint first, second or third place, these places shall be determined by the climbing time for each competitor (lower times are better). Janja was the only one to top the Semi-final route so she won on countback, the time was not a consideration. If Laura would have topped the semi-final route, then time would have mattered.
Damn, didn't expect so much Oriane hate in the comments. Could you commentate on an international final that you didn't make it into in your second language at 16?
Ach Sebastian!!! Mensch ich hätte dir so sehr eine bessere Platzierung gewünscht!!! Hätte heulen können... so ein sympathischer Kerl, so ein guter Kletterer... aber sollte einfach diesmal nicht sein... aber nächstes mal!!! Bleib dran!
Oriane’s commentary skills might not be exemplary, but oh god she’s cute... There’s something to be said about chemistry between the commentators too. Matt Groom isn’t quite as good at adapting to the style of his guests as Charlie Boscoe was. I particularly enjoyed his back-and-forth with Allanah Yip and Alex Khazanov.
I don't love the new Matt guy commenting especially much. Maybe I'm being a bit too harsh, but I felt we were getting a lot of the same questions and commentary on every broadcast so far. Feels canned, corny. I'm sure it can/will improve. Great to have comps back anyways! 🙏
I think we are spoiled with both Matt and Charlie and their engagement with their co commentators. I recently tried to watch a USA stream and it was so bland and only then I realised how good and enthusiastic Charlie but also Matt are. They do a good job of commentating while also educating new viewers (which can be repetitive for seasoned viewers, I know, but important for the sport)
@@supermr123454321 No, their finishing time was irrelevant. In the event of a tie, the tie-breaker is whoever did best in the previous round (semi). Janja was first in the semi-final, so she won.
Sorry multiple comments, (1) Alberto was clearly very injured on left knee. Surprised commentators did not notice or mention it. His drop in the finals was predictable, as it required full weight on left knee. (2) I question the huge gap between clips on the Women's route up to position #40. This is a precarious position to a dyno with a massive fall if missed. Should have been another clip here. (3) What do you think of the Trick Problem on the women's route? To me, I feel this is a bit much for a top level final. Save the tricks for non-world cup events.
Adding more clips there would add too much rope drag, because of the positions they would have to be in. They're still safe even with these big gaps between clips.
1) The tape on Albertos knee actually seems preemptive. You'll often see Athletes put this kind of tape on joints where they had prior problems with injuries. He has the full weight on his left knee multiple times during the climb and doesn't seem to have problems with it. His knee was also taped up during his climb in the Innsbruck final, where he climbed very well until he fell due to an unfortunate route reading error. If he had a serious knee injury, he would not be competing so close to the olympics. 2) The main reason for the huge gap between clips there is actually the angle change of the wall. One major risk for injury during a fall in lead is hitting an agle change in the wall. If they hit the angle change their feet go into the overhang and can't dampen the inpact and the athletes upper body will crash into the vertrical section of the wall. This is why there is no quickdraw before the jump and why the clip between the green holds hangs really low, the routesetters want to make sure that the climbers fall fully into the overhanging section of the wall as this is much safer. If they would at another clip before the jump it would actually have to be on foot height to ensure that, which can cause a climber to get his foot caught in the rope or the clip while jumping, that could cause them to turn upside down while falling.
When ever a commentator says "she/he is a complete machine" I cringe. I'm sure it is ment as a "complete" complement, but show me any machine that can do something even remotely close to what any of those athletes does...
@Tyson Romero Right because "ehehehe" and "hahaha" and "ihihihi" is amazing commentary, Oriane is a sweet climber, fun to watch, but that doesn't make her a great commentator.. The giggling was out of control, and most likely only because she was a bit nervous, understandable but its okay to point it out without you thinking "hate" because someone says it was "bad", It's his opinion, also mine, which I am perfectly entitled to without having Gold medals.
![แฟนแนวใด๋ - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ SyncVersion ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Fm8oDwos2uc/mqdefault.jpg)
Oriane, the happiest climber in the whole competition.
Alex Megos pointing at the kids was so cute. What a good guy.
Oraine is such a sweetheart! Really enjoyed her commentary
Loved Oriane’s energy in commentary for the women’s finals 👍🏼
She should do this more often, really great!
Yeah that was awesome! But hope she can make it to finals next time also :P
@@TheKaddle I had to turn off the sound. And my head still hurts.
@@jokkes1595 Agreed. Not very professional and no real content beyond "oh myyy gooood"
Appreciate the re-upload with the full woman's final👌👌
Man that womens final was amazing! Crazy finish
Bailey is on fire representing USA with a recent gold in Bouldering and this gold in Lead! Stay humble and keep trying hard, young man.
The original stream dropped out at the beginning of the Women's final so we didn't get to see the first two athletes. Thanks for the re-upload!
Wasnt it because the camera man filmed an ass for 2 seconds? Everybody was furious about it.. Hypersensitive buffers
@@TheFaxeKondi nah that was the bouldering semi-finals from Chamonix
@@TheFaxeKondi that was like for 8 seconds during a boulder semi final. That wasn't even in Villars lol
IFSC World Cup Chamonix 2021 || Finals dropped out too.
ohh yeeeeess, stefano ghisolfi as co-commentator. OMG what is this, even Orianne! and her english is great.
Thank you for fixing this. Natalia and Mia deserve to be seen. With more experience Natalia would have sent this. Breakout year for her and Brooke - amazing to watch!
Wow the top section of the women's was like a bouldering problem up in the sky. Wild.
I can't stop laughing when hear the laugh from Oriane. Like that attitude.
Laura's end moment was sooo exciting to watch! And also would like to point out Oriane's contribution👏🏻👏🏻
Natalia's climb, when the feed cut out, was the best to watch! Let the climbing speak for itself
Oriane‘s commentary was one of the highlights of the women’s finals her happiness is contagious and her english is amazing and she was 16 back then if I’m not wrong
Oh that throne is so hilarious! 🤣🤣🤣
Mens Climbing starts at 12:20
Women at 1:07:00
Sebastian Halenke looked solid, nice!
I would pay good money for an Oriane shirt that says "This is Crazy". I love her charisma, enthusiasm, and cheeriness
i really liked oriane's contribution! :)
yeah me too. she was so hyped and let out the emotion everyone was feeling. so sweet how she even apologized for screaming :)
Thanks Oriane for making this even more fun to watch!
Thanks for the re-upload, I appreciate it very much!
beautiful high heel by sebastian halenke. Alex megos' look over the shoulder was hilarious.
1:06:53 Natalia Grossman
1:14:15 Mia Krampl
thank you!!
Thank you for the new upload!
Please have Oriane commentate whenever she doesn't make finals!
hooooly moly, laura rogora's top was amazing.
Oriane needs to be on these streams more often! Even if she's competing. Just mic her up
Incredible. My new favourite channel
Thanks so much for the re-upload😋
Appreciate the reupload. Hope Matt learns the rules though. It wouldn't have come down to time, Janja would still have won on count-back even if she had been slower.
What does that mean? Thats different from anything mentioned in any broacast I've ever heard.
@@xxxxxxxxxxxx_xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 7.22 Each competitor attempting a route will be ranked on that route in the following order:
A) all competitors scored as TOP;
B) all other competitors in descending order of the score awarded to that competitor,
in relation to the Final round, if any competitors are tied following the ranking procedure of
Article 7.22, their relative ranking shall be determined:
1) by count-back to their rankings from the preceding round; and
2) if following count-back, any competitors are tied in joint first, second or third place,
these places shall be determined by the climbing time for each competitor (lower times
are better).
Janja was the only one to top the Semi-final route so she won on countback, the time was not a consideration. If Laura would have topped the semi-final route, then time would have mattered.
@@adgarbault These things are important, I agree with OP that Matt should know this as a commentator as it plays a big part in the competition.
@@adgarbault Thank you very much, didn't know this. :)
Good camera work in this one!
Damn, didn't expect so much Oriane hate in the comments. Could you commentate on an international final that you didn't make it into in your second language at 16?
Sean Bailey is so much of a IDGAF dude I love it. The quintessential American climber xD
ye dud
What a women’s final!
hate seeing falls but still an incredible final
IFSC plz add timeline for you videos
Woooooo let's go
They fixed it wow
fantastic.
grande Laura! un spanna sopra Oriane.
Oh my gosh Momoke Abe is soo beautiful
Da yo ne. ^^
Ach Sebastian!!! Mensch ich hätte dir so sehr eine bessere Platzierung gewünscht!!! Hätte heulen können... so ein sympathischer Kerl, so ein guter Kletterer... aber sollte einfach diesmal nicht sein... aber nächstes mal!!! Bleib dran!
Something: * happens *
Oriane: whyyy?
I think a lot of the time she's saying 'ouais' which means 'yeah' in French but sounds quite close to 'why'
i think shes saying "wow" bute with a french accent
Oian sounds like a sweet heart girl. Very interesting to hear her commentary voice
Was this duffy first world cup!?
Are there always these "tick marks" showing where the difficult to see holds are?
typically yes! :)
💪💪💪
Oriane’s commentary skills might not be exemplary, but oh god she’s cute... There’s something to be said about chemistry between the commentators too. Matt Groom isn’t quite as good at adapting to the style of his guests as Charlie Boscoe was. I particularly enjoyed his back-and-forth with Allanah Yip and Alex Khazanov.
Does anyone know Sebastian Halenke's wingspan/height?
Sean face at 57:22
Who is the female commentator?
Oriane Bertone
Dangerous route setting for men
I don't love the new Matt guy commenting especially much. Maybe I'm being a bit too harsh, but I felt we were getting a lot of the same questions and commentary on every broadcast so far. Feels canned, corny. I'm sure it can/will improve. Great to have comps back anyways! 🙏
I personally like Matt because he's engaging
I think we are spoiled with both Matt and Charlie and their engagement with their co commentators. I recently tried to watch a USA stream and it was so bland and only then I realised how good and enthusiastic Charlie but also Matt are. They do a good job of commentating while also educating new viewers (which can be repetitive for seasoned viewers, I know, but important for the sport)
Matt and Charlie were good together but after listening to American commentators you can’t help but appreciate his kindness.
where is the bouldering
I saw Italian girl won but then she was second lol how?
@Jon I Laura Rogora did stick it 1:45:50
@Jon I She finished (topped) the lead route slower (2s left) than janja (24s left) so janja won BC she finished faster
@@supermr123454321 No, their finishing time was irrelevant. In the event of a tie, the tie-breaker is whoever did best in the previous round (semi). Janja was first in the semi-final, so she won.
yes, the semifinal was the tiebreaker, not the time
Sorry multiple comments, (1) Alberto was clearly very injured on left knee. Surprised commentators did not notice or mention it. His drop in the finals was predictable, as it required full weight on left knee. (2) I question the huge gap between clips on the Women's route up to position #40. This is a precarious position to a dyno with a massive fall if missed. Should have been another clip here. (3) What do you think of the Trick Problem on the women's route? To me, I feel this is a bit much for a top level final. Save the tricks for non-world cup events.
Adding more clips there would add too much rope drag, because of the positions they would have to be in. They're still safe even with these big gaps between clips.
1) The tape on Albertos knee actually seems preemptive. You'll often see Athletes put this kind of tape on joints where they had prior problems with injuries. He has the full weight on his left knee multiple times during the climb and doesn't seem to have problems with it. His knee was also taped up during his climb in the Innsbruck final, where he climbed very well until he fell due to an unfortunate route reading error. If he had a serious knee injury, he would not be competing so close to the olympics.
2) The main reason for the huge gap between clips there is actually the angle change of the wall. One major risk for injury during a fall in lead is hitting an agle change in the wall. If they hit the angle change their feet go into the overhang and can't dampen the inpact and the athletes upper body will crash into the vertrical section of the wall. This is why there is no quickdraw before the jump and why the clip between the green holds hangs really low, the routesetters want to make sure that the climbers fall fully into the overhanging section of the wall as this is much safer.
If they would at another clip before the jump it would actually have to be on foot height to ensure that, which can cause a climber to get his foot caught in the rope or the clip while jumping, that could cause them to turn upside down while falling.
Why reload this?
The live version cut out during the ascent of Mia Krampl and Natalia Grossman (1st two women in the final).
This re-upped version has those included.
i think they added the missing climbs.
Live stream went offline a few times and this recording contains the missing bits
When ever a commentator says "she/he is a complete machine" I cringe. I'm sure it is ment as a "complete" complement, but show me any machine that can do something even remotely close to what any of those athletes does...
Does Matt get paid by the word? He talks entirely too much. 😩
Всё куплено!
Could you please elaborate: what exactly has been bought, by whom, and how does this relate to the tournament?
Just a little less giggling Oriane and you'll be fine in the commentating booth...
1:12:35 I think I'm in love 😍
Oriane is great athlete but annoying commentator, whyy
very bad commentary
Yea the girl was a bit much with the giggling and all. But she's young and not a commentator so I get it.
i’m not sure if you’re talking about oriane but english isn’t her first language and she’s new to commentating…
@Tyson Romero Right because "ehehehe" and "hahaha" and "ihihihi" is amazing commentary, Oriane is a sweet climber, fun to watch, but that doesn't make her a great commentator.. The giggling was out of control, and most likely only because she was a bit nervous, understandable but its okay to point it out without you thinking "hate" because someone says it was "bad", It's his opinion, also mine, which I am perfectly entitled to without having Gold medals.
I found it fun, how Oriane was oscillating between being "commentatorly" - "she is quite… quite good…" - and fangirl - "come on! whyyyy!? whyyyy!?"
That giggeling Co commentera must be on something mustnt she.. but funny
I love the positivity.
Or maybe she's just having a great time?
She did it great. Remeber English is not Oriane's mother language.
@@philippw4207 Well yeah, but she's clearly brilliant at it. She's even got a bit of a British accent.
@@philippw4207 I didn't know who she was...well with 16 i probably would Not have had the Guts to comoderate such an Event.. Sorry my fault
A good comp ruined by absolutely appalling commentary by that Oriane. Pointless, incoherent and that constant giggling... so, so irritating!