there're so many routes we never see been topped during the world cups...I really hope in the future they could show the intended beta from the route setter in the end, or maybe upload the "how to climb" video, so some of us could sleep :D
She’s been on form since 2020, she won the only World Cup last year in Briançon, beating Janja as well. She’s definitely a powerhouse, I can’t wait to see the lead podium battle between her, Janja, Chaehyun Seo, and Ai Mori in the upcoming years.
Her capacity to static everything meant to be dynamic to better fit into her heavy outdoor background is phenomenal. Worried with the Olympics where this may be less reasonable because of the amount of forerunning and expectations for nonclimber crowd pleasing moves.
@@zacharylaschober And japanese-friendly moves (complex dynos).. Laura was especially impressive here, since she went really fast with quite some risk, to outperform others that might top the route. But none did.
I remember climbing those mountains in the background when this climbing area was an all but abandoned walking path destination. The only soul up there the day I was there was a dog that looked like he needed the can of tuna in my pack a little more than I did. Good memories of the early 90’s.
@@stepanru4516 Was basically recorded but unfortunately, there were lots of technical issues lately during live streamings (bad weather ?), impacting notably Natalia Grossman (USA Climbing). So no insult against Russia here I guess.
Sometimes the videos have closed captions and sometimes they don't. Would you mind making sure they're on all of your videos so that everyone can enjoy the excellent commentary? Matt Groom is too good to miss!
Don’t count out Chaehyun Seo and Ai Mori too! I miss seeing them competing in the lead world cups, hopefully they’ll be back next year and give us some epic podium battles.
Yeah, Matt still hasn't learned the rules for IFSC competitions. Did you notice he asked Laura about climbing for time and she replied "I wasn't in a tie position". Time only counts if athletes are tied all the way back to the qualification round. I'm guessing Totkova had a better qualification result than Lukan.
Too many competitions in short order - drains you + not ideal to be in top shape for the olympics. It's a balancing of mental + physical preparation. Most athletes chose early competitions to get back into competition mode (quite a specific mental demand), and do some final physical touches right now.
there were problems during streaming and Dinara's ascend was not streamed and hence not included in video. They fixed video and re-uploaded - similarly like with semis video
Annoying crowd. Someone in there keeps just screaming like a maniac. "aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" and "aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" as well as "aaaayaaaaaaaaaaaa"
My thing about that is, other have touched anchors, bolts, QuickDraws etc as little as she did and been called off. The problem is others fell on that move and her body is swinging out right and she clearly had her momentum stopped. Now that could have been from a smear with the flag or with some help from the piece. It doesn’t matter if it is intentional or not the rules state if you touch it you’re down. I don’t know if there was a challenge or not. There may have been and from another angle it may have been fine. The one thing we can see from this angle is she may have touched it and it at least warranted another look.
It's good that lots of bolts get covered with shiny "holds" rendering them useless, and any discussion about it. Nobody seemed to have guessed someone could touch the right one. Best would be to remove all superfluous bolts for a competition..
Maybe that one person is disabled or has other reasons. Do you suggest "removing" or "quieting" a person just because you cannot enjoy your youtube-video?
Can you imagine if every NBA game explained: If the ball goes through the hoop, that team gets 2 points. Unless they shoot from behind this line, they get 3 points. And you can see the points increasing there. C'mon guys. Please stop saying the same stuff throughout the entire event, every event, in place of actual good announcing and commentary. I thought when Charlie retired we'd finally get someone with some talent for this.
What's so special about NBA commentary? As far as I can tell, the announcer just straightforwardly says what's happening. "Joe gets the rebound and passes it to John. John scores a layup..." At least here they go into a lot more depth. Yes, they explain basic stuff like rules. But they also describe the types of move the climber might have to make to advance, what the intended beta is, or whether the move meshes with their style, e.g. speculating that Laura will attempt to static the upcoming move meant for dyno based on her style. I like that kind of commentary way better than anything I've seen in the NBA. (But I also haven't watched the NBA in a long time, maybe their commentary style improved since then.)
As someone who has only started watching these comps recently in advance of its Olympic introduction, I appreciated this type of commentary. Admittedly, they probably only need to do so at the top of each round.
As has been said, competition climbing is new for many folks, as is the vernacular, plus they’ve several hours to fill and play by play from most sports is tedious.
This way of explaining is great and doesn't ignore new people watching nor patronise them, climbing comps are going to be less easy to understand as many people don't grow up doing the sport like they do basketball
The new graphic for progression has been a great touch this year.
there're so many routes we never see been topped during the world cups...I really hope in the future they could show the intended beta from the route setter in the end, or maybe upload the "how to climb" video, so some of us could sleep :D
ASHIMA SHIRAISHI 13:55
NATSUKI TANII 20:08
LAURA ROGORA 26:43
VITA LUKAN 33:44
DINARA FAKHRITDINOVA 41:30
JULIA CHANOURDIE 46:22
ALEKSANDRA TOTKOVA 51:22
NATALIA GROSSMAN 57:25
MARCELLO BOMBARDI 1:13:33
VICTOR BAUDRAND 1:17:38
MARTIN STRANIK 1:21:23
SEAN BAILEY 1:25:55
LUKA POTOCAR 1:33:35
PAUL JENFT 1:37:34
STEFANO GHISOLFI 1:41:20
SASCHA LEHMANN 1:46:10
And the start of the actual broadcast is 2:18
thanks!
Legend
Our hero
My guy
Matt, you are a great addition to the commentary, glad to hear you so often
Molly is doing really great job, not just boring obvious statements, real insight and thoughts displayed.
Yep, molly was awesome, she basically did the whole first part.
Shiraishi прекрасна! Очень приятно смотреть на её лазание.
Tanii, Rogora чудо!
Все замечательные. Спасибо им.
Damn that lead route for men sure was something else, would've been nice to see Jakob or Adam giving it a go.
I miss the colorful homemade pants on Ashima they were always epic
Such an amazing effort from rogora. I think she would have still taken gold if janja competed
Laura! She is just so good this year!
Yeah finally on plastic as well!
She’s been on form since 2020, she won the only World Cup last year in Briançon, beating Janja as well. She’s definitely a powerhouse, I can’t wait to see the lead podium battle between her, Janja, Chaehyun Seo, and Ai Mori in the upcoming years.
Her capacity to static everything meant to be dynamic to better fit into her heavy outdoor background is phenomenal. Worried with the Olympics where this may be less reasonable because of the amount of forerunning and expectations for nonclimber crowd pleasing moves.
@@zacharylaschober And japanese-friendly moves (complex dynos)..
Laura was especially impressive here, since she went really fast with quite some risk, to outperform others that might top the route. But none did.
Thank you for reuploading quickly when there have been technical difficulties and thank you for enabling comments on this one.
I remember climbing those mountains in the background when this climbing area was an all but abandoned walking path destination. The only soul up there the day I was there was a dog that looked like he needed the can of tuna in my pack a little more than I did. Good memories of the early 90’s.
Ashima is back! I was looking forward to that for so long!!! Im in hype!!!
Dinara is back, great! Thank you!
Thank you for fixing the issue with Dinara’s climb!
How did they fix it?
@@stepanru4516 Was basically recorded but unfortunately, there were lots of technical issues lately during live streamings (bad weather ?), impacting notably Natalia Grossman (USA Climbing). So no insult against Russia here I guess.
Thank you for Dinara`s ascend
Dinara Fakhritdinova at 41:10 (was missing in the live livestream)
Sometimes the videos have closed captions and sometimes they don't. Would you mind making sure they're on all of your videos so that everyone can enjoy the excellent commentary? Matt Groom is too good to miss!
What is the song playing in the background while Sean Bailey climbs??
Sean Bailey is the Jess Mariano of climbing
Динару вернули🥰
GRANDE LAURA!!!!
I love Matt groom as an announcer
1:00:20 straight to the highlight reel
Will lead become speed between Rogora and Janja?
Don’t count out Chaehyun Seo and Ai Mori too! I miss seeing them competing in the lead world cups, hopefully they’ll be back next year and give us some epic podium battles.
:-))
why didn't lukan get 3rd place? didn't she achieve 38+ in less time compared to totkova?
It's based on count back from the semis and then time
Yeah, Matt still hasn't learned the rules for IFSC competitions. Did you notice he asked Laura about climbing for time and she replied "I wasn't in a tie position". Time only counts if athletes are tied all the way back to the qualification round. I'm guessing Totkova had a better qualification result than Lukan.
can anyone tell me why Janja isn't competing? sorry i'm missing something...
Lots of athletes have skipped comps this season in preparation for the Olympics.
Too many competitions in short order - drains you + not ideal to be in top shape for the olympics. It's a balancing of mental + physical preparation. Most athletes chose early competitions to get back into competition mode (quite a specific mental demand), and do some final physical touches right now.
A commercial every 3.5 mins on a 2 hour video is kind of annoying...
Who is the commentator?
Matt Groom and Molly Thompson-Smith (GB)
Matt groomer
I thought we were past the "Shirashi" pronunciations after the ESPN commentator for USA nationals :(
Matt Groom reliably butchers everyone's name. He puts the stereotypical American to shame in that regard
just watched laura rogora's attempt. Hope she doesnt get appealed down.
What was the appeal about in the women's final?
setters are gonna get a talking to from the IFSC after the disastrous women's semi's AND men's final.....
36:05 - is that foot on the safety pin allowable? I'm not saying she should be penalized, I'm just asking when do you get penalized for that.
Yeah, I saw that too, would love to see it from a different angle and see if she acctually stands on it or not.
They also said that there was an appeal for the women’s results. Maybe it was about that incident?
I thought the appeal was about 30:52
Actually quite amazed as that looked to be edging from this perspective, but she did receive a 38+ so the perspective might be deceiving.
why the reload?
there were problems during streaming and Dinara's ascend was not streamed and hence not included in video. They fixed video and re-uploaded - similarly like with semis video
Annoying crowd. Someone in there keeps just screaming like a maniac. "aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" and "aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" as well as "aaaayaaaaaaaaaaaa"
30:54 how did no coaches challenge that though?
it doesn't move in the slightest, so she obviously didn't touch it?
@@LeaderOfTehBox its a small, fixed, metal anchor for a QuickDraw that is bolted in, it wouldn’t of moved.
she doesn’t really step on it/weight it so it couldn’t have helped her make that move
My thing about that is, other have touched anchors, bolts, QuickDraws etc as little as she did and been called off. The problem is others fell on that move and her body is swinging out right and she clearly had her momentum stopped. Now that could have been from a smear with the flag or with some help from the piece. It doesn’t matter if it is intentional or not the rules state if you touch it you’re down. I don’t know if there was a challenge or not. There may have been and from another angle it may have been fine. The one thing we can see from this angle is she may have touched it and it at least warranted another look.
It's good that lots of bolts get covered with shiny "holds" rendering them useless, and any discussion about it. Nobody seemed to have guessed someone could touch the right one. Best would be to remove all superfluous bolts for a competition..
Jfc how was that one person allowed to yell constantly like that?? Just about ruined the whole stream!
Maybe that one person is disabled or has other reasons. Do you suggest "removing" or "quieting" a person just because you cannot enjoy your youtube-video?
Can you imagine if every NBA game explained: If the ball goes through the hoop, that team gets 2 points. Unless they shoot from behind this line, they get 3 points. And you can see the points increasing there.
C'mon guys. Please stop saying the same stuff throughout the entire event, every event, in place of actual good announcing and commentary. I thought when Charlie retired we'd finally get someone with some talent for this.
I would guess that the IFSC asks the commentators to do this, on the expectation (or hope) that there are people new to the sport watching the videos.
What's so special about NBA commentary? As far as I can tell, the announcer just straightforwardly says what's happening. "Joe gets the rebound and passes it to John. John scores a layup..." At least here they go into a lot more depth. Yes, they explain basic stuff like rules. But they also describe the types of move the climber might have to make to advance, what the intended beta is, or whether the move meshes with their style, e.g. speculating that Laura will attempt to static the upcoming move meant for dyno based on her style. I like that kind of commentary way better than anything I've seen in the NBA. (But I also haven't watched the NBA in a long time, maybe their commentary style improved since then.)
As someone who has only started watching these comps recently in advance of its Olympic introduction, I appreciated this type of commentary. Admittedly, they probably only need to do so at the top of each round.
As has been said, competition climbing is new for many folks, as is the vernacular, plus they’ve several hours to fill and play by play from most sports is tedious.
This way of explaining is great and doesn't ignore new people watching nor patronise them, climbing comps are going to be less easy to understand as many people don't grow up doing the sport like they do basketball
The way Sean won is a bit weird. But luck is part of the game, I guess.
What's lucky about climbing the farthest on a hard route against strong competition?
@@BillyGrayNC many other competitors were unlucky. What's so difficult to understand about that?
@@blarfroer8066 yeah dude the only reason adam ondra ever wins is bc the other climbers were unlucky /s
@@Alex-sl4zp how is this related to Adam Ondra? I was talking about this specific comp. Did you even watch it?
@Mark Reynolds well, you're definitely lucky someone invented shoes with velcro.