Q&A with Janja Garnbret
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2022
- This week Louis had the chance to sit down and chat with the Queen of climbing herself! We hope you enjoy listening to them talk about Janja's inspirations, perfectionism in climbing, performing under pressure and how she prepares for her competitions.
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You’re such a good interviewer and great listener! I love this interview with Janja :) thanks so much!
Yes, we already know Louis has a great attitude but I agree, his interview style is very good (and with the world's greatest opposite from you...
Louis is an excellent interviewer!
He's got interesting questions,
formulates and articulates them well,
listen to Janja's answer and responds just the right amount from his personal thoughts,
summarizes Janja's answer;
fluid and natural transitions in between topics
His interview is like his climbing, very fluid and flowy. Both enjoyable to watch.
No way! Janja in person with Louis, crazy. Finally feels like pandemic is slightly away (wished we saw some climbing with the both of you).
And really good interview / interviewer, it felt really natural and it went a bit more in depth than most interviews.
Great questions that took Janja deeper than I've seen her in other interviews. Well done, Louis and thank you, Janja!
Exactly what I was thinking! Such a fabulous interview!
She is the best ambassador for the sport of climbing. I'm massive fan. Inspiring and clearly the best as she proved again in the 23 world championships.
Having a international competition set for both male and female in the same category would be such a ground breaking event for sport in general - and with the correct fair setting it would full of surprises…
i dont think so . Man would dominate like in every other sport thats why the sport for women and man are separated . Maybe if they would do like a duo tournament (women and man are in a pair but they climb different boulders and then they summarize the points) or partner boulders that would actually be interesting and fair
@@msice1000 the thing with climbing, as indicated above, is the sport has a strong emphasis on skill plus a host of variations in style to overcome sequences. Setting has evolved from simply hard pulling and there is no reason not to try and figure out how to challenge top competitors across the field. Maybe would mean the training focus of the field shifts or how we score or how we plan competitions and similar shift to find the best athletes rather than the best athletes through a historically male filter.
@@msice1000 Let me guess, you don't climb.
@@zacharylaschober nah I just think it's unnecessary woke culture and u don't need it. It's like in every sport women and men are divided cause it wouldn't be fair for women to compete with man it's just simple biology. You can see how this workouts with those transgender athletes.
@@skyex5047 do you?
Louis is such a lovely person, I always smile when I see him. And the interview with Janja was so nice! Thanks a lot.
They are two amazing people aren't they!! Glad you enjoyed it!
Outstanding ✨I’m such a fan girl! Love this!!
9 million subs and I’m your first like 😂 you climb?
I had no idea I was looking at an old interview and I was so confused about Paris being two years away 😂 well, it's almost here now!
Excellent interview Louis! And thanks to Janja for doing this.
This was a PHENOMENAL interview!
Great questions, great style, tone, and mannerisms.
You're clearly a natural at this, Louis.
Was far better than most sports interviews you see done by professional interviewers
🗽 Love to see Janja in a Q&A. She is such a great climber, already a legend. 🙏
Greetings from Austria.
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Amazing isn't she!
Such a great interview!
Amazing interview! Loved it.
I am literally freaking out rn!!! I can’t believe Janja is in London and that you met her!! Thank you so much for posting this
Great interview!
Great questions, great answers. Really enjoyed that!
Great interview 👏👏
Great interview
Wow, what a cool interview! Thank you very much :)
Lovely interview! Super interesting and fun.
this is probably an interview that will become a go-to reference to most climbing training workshops in all climbing history. thanks for producing this interview! very valuable!
Such good questions and vibe to this. Great stuff.
Thank you both soo sooo much. That was great to watch.
Great interview! She's super inspiring.
Great honest and relaxed Interview. Thanks to both of you.
Thank you for the video, it's amazing to watch you both on the same screen. Can't wait to see Janja climbing during an european competition and on her project outside!
Really good questions (deep enough for a big thorough interview)! Thank you Louis, thank you Janja:) Loved it!
Wow, very good interview, answered all our questions.
Great Interview from one climber to another. Really good energy!
cracking interview Louis well done, should be proud of this! And ofc how amazing is Janja :)
thank you for this amazing interview louis and janja! extremely good questions but i didnt expect anything else anyways, athletes should always be interviewed by such passionate people.
Wow! What an interview! Loui is such an amazing interviewer! Great questions and flow!
And I will also add very good questions Captain, a thoughtful interview/conversation…well done 🧗
Great interviewing skills! Happy to see you listen to the answers and then go from there, as well as the rehearsed questions.
Yay! This was awesome! I recently listened to her interview on the Enormocast podcast and it was amazing. This was also super cool. Great questions by you!
Thanks for this! Amazing interview Louis! Thank you thank you 😊🙏
Impeccable interviewer and great chemistry between the two of you, excellent content so thank you both!!
Louis is a great interviewer 👏👏
Another great interview!
Nice one Louis and Janja comes across as such a lovely balanced person (for someone so extraordinarily brilliant as a climber).
Good Interview! I will never hangboard again!
Youd make a great counsellor Lois! Very natural and empathic, and insightful open questions. If coaching ever doesnt work out, got another career path I reckon 👍
I love hearing from the reigning Queen of climbing 👍 and quite possibly the GOAT
Great interview! I love her humility. I would love to see a unisex climbing competition. It would be a good challenge for route setters, and I think the climbers are up for the challenge too
Amazing interview!!! Loved this, thank you!!
You're very welcome! Glad that you enjoyed it!
One legend to another! Both of you are such an inspiration to this community!
Thank you for this great talk!
As a dude, I also wish for Janja to compete against the guys and kick their asses. It would be great fun and definitely would close that mindset gap of a gender being able to do something another can’t. Theres of course physical differences between genders but rock climbing is such a unique sport that the person/body doesn’t have to be so specific to succeed. I think it would just be rad. 😁 Keep on crushing, Janja, and hopefully we see that day.
Agreed, it'd be really interesting for viewers since we'd see more variation in betas
You're severely delusional. I mean that seriously. Rock climbing is one of the sports restricting your body type the most. You need to have long limbs and be very light and strong. In golf people of different body shapes could become the best, in rock climbing definitely not.
You also seem to be unaware of the huge gap between the best women and the best men. It's not even close. Janja herself admits that she couldn't even do a lot of the routes the guys are doing at all.
@@MrCmon113 uuuh, do you even rock climb? Body type really doesn’t matter. You do have to be relatively light and strong to get the super hard stuff, but body type in general….no. Ai Mori is like 5ft tall and looks frail as a child. She climbs things in the most ridiculous way to make the problem fit her body. And she succeeds. (she beat Janja - twice i think? Or at least gold twice back to back this year).
You can make problems fit you even if they don’t naturally fit you. Sometimes it can be a cockblocker on outdoor stuff but at the same time outdoors offers maaaaany more possibilities than specifically set indoors stuff. Look up Laura Rogora crimping absolutely tiny holds that the bigger guys don’t even acknowledge as holds.
Difference between the best mens and women climbing - outdoors - yes theres a gap. But not as big as you make it seem. Again, look up Laura Rogora. Indoors the setting can be made tricky in a variety of ways other than just raw strength…and comps arnt too often set to pure raw strength anymore. Its more dynamic and balance stuff and being uncomfortable on weird holds. Strength IS needed but not in a have-it-and-you-automatically-win kind of way. Theres sooo many other elements to climbing.
But yeah a route setter would definitely struggle to make a route roughly equal difficulty between a 5’ climber and a 6.5’ climber with +index. I do agree with you there 😁
She seems impervious to the pressure…when you see her climb she genuinely looks like she’s enjoying the process/performance
Wonderful interview! ❤
Fantastic insight isn't it!?
I smiled the whole interview for some reason
that was fun! very interesting as well :D
Some really great questions in here and super cool to hear even Janja is 95% training on the wall. I always think that is how the vast majority of us should train but believed the elites have more reason to specifically hangboard etc. so it’s nice knowing tryhard and targeted exercises on the wall are all you really need
Several world class athletes have training structures which simply cannot be replicated by the vast, vast majority of the populace. The genetic potential and training history for climbing as a skill sport likely means whatever Janja does at a reasonably hard effort with appropriate recovery will see her progress, especially when having coaches around to assure time under tension and such are there.
The 6x4hour weekly training she dropped would probably break the average climber in about a week and see huge deficits in progression since the wall training protocols aren’t as established and controllable.
But I don’t disagree with the point. More quality time on the wall.
Oh my goodness Janja Q&A…that’s quite a coup 👍
Dude,you should be hosting or commentating for international competitions🤙
Hmm, dream boulder - crimpy, 45 degrees... Am I only one immediaty thought about Burden of Dreams? Would be really cool if Janja try that
When you record an interview with the top climber and someone comes in to make a coffee.
What a legend, I really hope she sends La Dura Dura. It would be so amazing, oh man I really really hope she sends it some day.
I'm curious how you train for specific techniques or competition style climbs on a stray board. It seems like Janja performs well on coordination moves and tricky slabs that I feel like might be harder to set on a spray wall (but maybe I'm wrong!!). I'd be so curious to hear how that training works
the GOAT 👑
The Netflix film was brilliant and Janja is the GOAT 🐐
Absolutely the best!
Woah!
Love to see next generation female world class climber here. From jain kim, shauna coxey, miho nonaka, akiho noguchi, anna sthor, alex puccio, now is Janja's era im sure
Only a robot would say they’re not a robot 😂 Janja is a legend
Conditioning and the physical side is a good way to improve when you can't be at the gym. At the gym I feel that climbing is the way to go and obviously the most fun! 😂
didnt know janja visited the uk!!! :( hahaha
Does anyone know which event Janja will compete in for the European Championship 2022? Lead, Boulder or the combined?
Best keep an eye out on her social media!
If you don't know Janja that year went on to win every single gold medal in the European Championship.
I always wondered about the menstrual cycle in female athletes and its effect on mindset and performance. For myself its a huge factor and I wonder why there is so little conversation about it, is everyone of some form of BC, or does the effect diminish on elite level?
Looked around a bit on this and it seems to be a taboo that's opening up more and more. How much of a problem it is varies a lot from person to person even on Olympic level, and also how it's dealt with. I think it's really important to treat this just like any other common issue that might hold a person back somehow.
Lattice has been doing a lot more work on this, I think because of the depth of female coaches they have there, to discuss variations in the cycle and influence on training and structure.
Because climbing is such a strength to weight ratio activity, I do know a few high end athletes who have talked about disruptions to their menstrual cycle with simultaneous advantage and disadvantage.
What is the movie that Louis keeps referencing to?
The Wall!
Great interview, thx! Tiny criticism: The camera could have been a little less dead. :D Maybe a close-up of the faces from time time? But as I said: Just a detail. Thx for the great work!
Thank you for the feedback
I think Louis was a little starstruck ;)
You think? It's literally the first thing he mentions after the introduction :D
what did she say in 20:10?
"super more force, super far"
Super morpho. Morpho is short for morphological, and means a climb that is very specific to a particular body type (usually, but not always, favouring tall people).
:)
2:45 who?
Are there no female route setters for the comps…wow, that’s interesting.
I didnt want to do any bouldering competitions, mission failed successfully
45*, crimpy, old school. That's the way we like it
I bet janja would win a male comp!
A bit contradictory to say the gap between male and female climbers is closing but at the same time blaming the gap on ‘male routesetters’. If there is no difference between males and females that shouldn’t matter no?
I'm surprised that she thinks that the performance level gap between male and female will close. In some styles maybe, but when it's very physical/far ? There is still (generally) a strength gap between men and women.
There's also a lean-ness gap, size gap, skill gap, really everything-gap, as in every sport.
Great interview. But about the last minutes... I wonder what will happen when, after years and years of pushing this ideology, no woman comes close to what the best male climbers are achieving in terms of climbing difficulty. Sure there's been some niechy aspects where this was debated for a time, such as linn hill's first free ascent of el cap (or ashima's early V15 is which is still unmached), but that's what they are, very niechy feats. As long as it's very cool to see that we're very close to eachother, on the other hand (and in general), for the time it takes for women to achieve something new, men have gone way ahead already (it took a lifetime of hard training with all the thinkable facilities and today's fancy knowledge about climbing, for a woman to redpoint the same grade as a go-with-the-flow stonner who started climbing at 15yo such as chris sharma, which btw was the second person to redpoint the grade 9a+, 5 years after huber). And yes, maybe in some department it seems like women are catching up, but there's other areas where that's unquestionable (look at how many male vs female climbers have climbed V15 and above, for ex., or onsighted harder routes than 8c). I still dont know what do we gain from expecting that men and women should be climbing equally hard, as in any sport rarely happens that sex ins't a good preditor of success in the elite levels, not to mention that what "should" happen in the higher levels need'nt have to do anything with what happens at the average and lower levels, and no one is making statements about these other ranges. So again... what exactly are we trying to prove with this?
I guess Burden of dream will fit you well... can't wait to see you try...
Great interview!
Great interview!