Another great video. I'm running the same Teraflex Big Brake kit on my JKU. Huge improvement over the stock brakes. You'll really appreciate them out on the trail when you're on a steep rock face and the guy in front of you gets stuck. You'll be able to hold your position without a problem. I noticed that you installed the reservoir part of the front shock away from the spring. When I did that on my Jeep, the tire would just catch the reservoir under full deflection/turn. It was just enough to chew up the Fox decal. To solve the problem, I rotated the reservoir so that it sits about half an inch from the springs. Never had an issue since. Depending on the backspacing of your new wheels, it may not be a problem, but it's something to check out.
These kits are awesome! I did the front and rear Teraflex kits in Nov '17, but also added the Mopar big brake master cylinder and brake booster upgrade. In the end, overall performance felt better than stock even with 35s. For anyone looking into doing the Teraflex upgrade, I'd spring for the larger master cylinder and brake booster so you don't loose firmness. Brad mentioned not needing to upgrade if your Jeep is newer than 2011, but mine is a '13 and the booster and master cylinder in the upgrade kit was definitely bigger. Don't run anything smaller than a 17" with a minimum of 4.5" backspacing.
Any big brake kit is always worth it! I put Tundra brakes on my Tacoma last November and it has been worth it 100% especially running bigger heavier tires.
Im sure theres a way. I know on second gens you can use GX460 rotors and the 13WL calipers. Just have to shave the calipers a little to get them to clear.
I installed the same kit front & rear on Project Dirty Willy a long time ago and they stop great. I went with the slotted kit, but I had to fight some squeaking issues for a while. This kit has amazing stopping power on a 2dr! The TeraFlex pads were a little aggressive for a lighter 2dr so I went with some NAPA Premium or Platinum something or others and it doesn't put your face in the windshield anymore. Great upgrade for anyone with larger tires and/or heavy equipment.
Brad did an excellent job outlining how easy any brake job can be. Loved that you actually used a torqued wrench! One thing that I may add, this job is a large undertaking by just taking the wheels off. I would suggest replacing those rear pads while you're at it. It's always best practice to have new surfaces on both the pads and rotors. Additionally, I would've cleaned the old grease off of those slides and cleaned the re-used hardware thoroughly. A clean and freshly lubricated brake system will eliminate any doubts in the future if you develop sticking or squeaks.
Brake pads seat to the rotors, that is why you were doing the break in on the front...seat the pad face to the rotor. Those 5000 mile pads were seated to the old rotors, and should not have been reused.
Danny Ruth it’s always best to use a torque wrench if you can. It’ll give you the piece of mind knowing it’s right. If you have years of experience knowing what 50ft lbs feels like, it may be no issue. I think where it can make a big difference is with things like lock nuts where it can be hard to judge. Everyone knows that most of the vehicles out there have been built without torque wrenches so take do what you want with my advice haha
I did the dynatrac big brake upgrade the same day, and I had spongy pedal at first as well but now after 150 miles I'm sold. Stoked the teraflex make you feel the same! Awesome content keep it up!!
If you want a chance of getting that rotor off in the future to change it, put anti sneeze on the inner ring where is go onto the drive axle dust cover. Other wise is is hammer time trying to bust it off.
I installed the Terflex rear disc brake kit on my '02 TJ many years ago. My TJ is a Sport model so no rear discs from the factory like the Rubi's had. With 35's my stopping power was scary to say the least with the factory rear drums. With the Teraflex rear discs it made a significant improvement in stopping. It was a very good upgrade. I've thought about a big brake kit for the front but am not aware of a simple-to-install kit. There is/was a kit that required exchanging the outer knuckles, and machining, and lots of work. I would also have to upgrade my wheels from the present 15's to 17's for caliper clearance, and that brings up a whole lot of wheel/tire issues. But on the somewhat good side, my brakes are now just concerning, ...not scary anymore. lol
Great vid! I did the very same kit and the brake pedal was still a bit too soft. I understand the best solution is to upgrade the M/C to the bigger 1.18" bore. This comes as part of the J8-Mopar BBK. You've come this far, another $250 seems worth it. It'll def get the firm pedal we all want. Bigger bore lets more fluid through under pressure.
When my buddies swapped out my Dana 30/35 (M186/M200) for Dana 44 (M210/M220), I couldn't understand why they insisted I buy the Mopar Big Brakes upgrade kit. I just moved from 285s to 35s, and now it all makes sense. Bigger wheels need bigger brakes. This is a great video, thank you!
Great idea. Big tires always alter the original design/engineering of suspension, steering, gearing and braking. The larger the tires, the less the stock brakes will perform. Same with axle gears, large tires, less performance with the same gear ratios. It's fairly interesting how many folks do not understand the dynamics created with larger tires and suspension/steering components. When you do the math, the differences are huge. Regarding the testing part, brakes will require a good number of miles to seat or break-in before you realize their full potential. The lining and disks have to seat/mesh/wear before they obtain full potential which is about when you notice the disks having their shiny appearance. It's a good idea to brake easy for the first few miles until they are seated in fully. Looks like a great kit...all went smooth.
Just curious, why you wouldn't want new rear brake pads that have a proper corresponding compound and better rear calipers, to again match the braking system?
I got this done about a month ago on my jku sport... I think this is something people neglect which is possibly the most important upgrade. I got the slotted ones and now I feel safe letting my kid drive my Jeep.
Christopher Michaelson as long as you keep them clean everything should be fine. I know crap will get all up in there but I chose the slotted for the highway/expressway travel I do everyday. I normally have fun on little dirt roads and paths.. For now. I have plans to upgrade my axles and such in the coming years but for now I'm what you would call a "mall crawler". But I like the term "Chicago Crawler" because of all the damn road work and pot holes that never seem to get done/fixed.
There's a drilled and slotted Wrangler TH-cam review of a guy who used them. I don't even use drilled and slotted on my race vehicles anymore. Brake pad tech has come a long way since those rotors were needed. Actually get better pad to rotor contact patch without them.
Lol! Love that, "Chicago Crawler" I'm from Chicago originally and migrated to AZ 5 yrs ago. 2 seasons in Chicago. Winter and road repair! I used to go to Wisconsin via I90. It took them 5 yrs to put in a bridge, 5yrs! I am sooooo glad I moved to AZ... Well except for the 3 or 4 months of 110 plus temps, but it is a dry heat!
Brakes are so important. Besides tires, brakes and suspension are the most vital upgrades no matter what type of vehicle you're building! anyways: I usually put on a little anti-seize on the hub surface before putting on rotors, just so next time they don't stick! I also use some " disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads, Idk if it really works or not, but so far i've never had a squeeky brake issue. Also I like to use a paper towel + brake cleaner to clean the rotors, gives me peace of mind that the oils and dirt is coming off and onto the paper towel.
Switched to the Hawk Performance SuperDuty Brake Pads for a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 in my TeraFlex Big Brakes. Break-in procedure is pretty important and I let mine cool over night after. I don't like to skimp on safety items and have spent many times more on brakes and pads for track vehicles.
I remember commenting about this when you put the 37's on. I'm glad you finally were able to make the upgrade. It might not seem like a bunch of a difference, but when that granny pulls out in front of you... you will be glad you now have the upgraded brakes. One thing I do need to add is with the rear brakes. Those little clips the pads ride in probably should have been replaced while you had them off. I've had numerous and by that I do mean A LOT of them break and get lost while driving. So meny that I just have a stock of them in the shop to install as needed. Thankfully they are easily purchased at your local parts store. So, if you hear an odd "click" when just starting to press the brake pedal, (most noticeable pulling into the garage with your windows down) take a look for the clips. As you may have one or more missing.
Anytime you get air in the brake system, it is best to bleed the system fully. On an 02 Camaro we have I only bled the rear brakes once without bleeding the fronts. Long story short, I wound up ruining the master cylinder, and had to replace it later on when I started losing brake pressure. Not sure if it was to that specific brake system, but just something I will never do again.
You need to trash the front pads and install a set of EBC Orange Stuff pads. Trust me they will change your life! You think it stops now? The Orange stuff will blow you away! Awesome cold stopping and the hotter they get the more they bite. Zero fade! Plus almost no brake dust! Also the reason you did not notice a difference when you installed the rear brakes is because the rear is only 20% of your braking.
I can confirm that EBC pads will offer a noticeable increase in stopping power, but I will never use those products again. I used the Yellow stuff pads on my track day car and the stopping power was slightly increased compared to the CL pads I normally use. However they generated MASSIVELY more heat. Then started to fade like hell. Nearly boiled the brake fluid they got so hot. They wore very uneven and one pad actually started to crumble a bit, putting the a deep track in the rotor. Needed to replace them both with only about 500 miles on it. Granted, most of that was track time. Maybe the reds are better, but the yellow stuff pads are not something I would ever consider again on my vehicles.
I did mine about a month ago. My rear pads were about 1/2 gone so i put new ceramic pads on. I also put a nee rear spring kit on (that retain the pads in the caliper) for like $7. Wow what a difference with the 37 toyos im running
adding a hose from the caliper bleed valve to the bottom of the bleed bottle(under some new/old brake fluid) will make bleeding a 1 person job, because you can just leave it open and it wont suck back in air just brake fluid.
Brad: I know this is a year old video, but two questions about the brakes: (1) any update on how these are working out now that you've had them on for a while, done some trips, done some trails, done some commuting? Still a worthwhile upgrade? Any reliability issues, squeaking etc? (2) on the question of that soft pedal: did you ever consider having someone with the right vacuum tool do a proper professional bleed of the brakes? It doesn't take much air in the system to make the pedal feel mushy, and you had those brake lines open for a moment when you were moving the lines between calipers. PS: enjoyed the podcast you did recently on the Sponsored Rider podcast.
Just got my 16 rubicon hard rock what a beast compared to my 04 LJ. will be looking into brakes after winch. Learned that lesson on my motor home cracked the rotors clear thru. Only have to show me once!
Anxious to hear your longer term thoughts. Even with just 35s, with the large front and rear bumpers, winch, cargo, etc.. I feel like I have to plan a day ahead when I want to stop.. lol. After watching the Teraflex video, I'm pretty sure I'll have to pony up for the larger capacity booster on my 2011. Great video!
If you got any air in your ABS module then you need to take it to a shop that can put it on computer and make it actuate the module to also bleed it. That will firm up your pedal as well as the Mopar booster and MC, it is bigger that the ones that are in even the newer JKs.
If you want to take full advantage of any Big Brake kit then big bore master cylinder upgrade is necessary imo. What's the sense of upgrading to 54mm dual piston calipers if you're not giving them the additional fluid volume that they require to optimize performance? You're just increasing clamping surface but not clamping force.
I hope that you didn't forget the bolts that lock the brake disc to your hubs as you don't want your brake discs from breaking loose when you need them most.
Vehicles with disc brakes all around. Rarely have a very firm pedal. Due to no adjustment to the caliper. If you had rear drums your pedal could get firmer. Cause you can adjust your rear brakes tighter. You will notice the difference in braking on the street and down hill trails.
Dest Droid I'm assuming that too because of the color pattern. I'm just wondering because I'd like to keep one in the Jeep... Have a bad back and don't want to be using a tire iron.
So you don't get the same levels of rust as we do in the Great white north but if you want your rotors to always come off with no extra motivation, coat the hub in anti-seize
I see that on the front brakes you installed the brake line so that the bend in the line is towards the inside of the suspension. I did that as well - which almost burst the line during some hard steering.
You mangled the bolt head at 13:07 because you're using 12-sided socket (well, ratcheting wrench) on a high-torque 6-sided bolt... use a 6-sided socket on a ratchet and avoid that mess! I did the same to my oil drain plug once after jiffy-lube put it in way tight.
How often do you flush out the old brake fluid. It's recommended to be done. Every 2 to 4yrs. As brake fluid breaks down. Plus its a great way to get sum good brake pedal feel with fresh synthetic dot4 fluid
Hey Brad, how do you feel about this upgrade now that some time has passed? Do you still like them? Any issues that you've had or would have done differently now?
The more changes I do to my Jeep the more changes I need to do to my Jeep. Get a 3 1/2 lift with 35" tires.....a new drive shaft will need to be added soon after. Install a new steel bumper w/ winch & lights......new brakes will be needed to stop that additional weight. I still got a Dana 30 front axel housing that'll need to be replaced down the road. Especially if I plan on going 37"'s. Not to mention regearing.
I like the way you make the install video's always very detailed. Only thing I would do extra is add grey grease to the back of the rotors to keep the from seising up.
Just FYI for anyone looking to do this upgrade, do NOT use brake clean to clean off the rotors, I work with these rotors on a daily basis and it can ruin the coating on the outside. If possible, AC cleaner is a good alternative but if unavailable use a microfiber cloth and alcohol
Those brakes look pretty cool Brad. I just went to 37’s on my TJ with Dana 44’s. This looks like some OT money may have to be stashed away for my new purchase. Nice job on the video!
Kevin Murphy don't bother with teraflex. Your money is better spent on Wilwoods. For $200 more you get a lighter dimpled rotor, SS brakelines and an actual 4 piston brake caliper. That's also lighter.
Question here...Why would increasing the size of the rear rotors but leaving the brake pads the same size have any effect on stopping? The surface area of the parts in contact is still the same which is limited by the size of the brake pads.
Great video Brad. I wish they made these for the FJ Cruiser. I think you will notice the rear ones more when you are on the trails and coming down obstacles.
Did anyone ever have issues with the angle of the brake line coming off the banjo bolt seen at 8:37? I installed the front kit about 6 months ago and haven’t had any issues but it just seems pinched close when the wheel is turned…
Got any idea on what the minimum ID Wheel Size you need for the Teraflex Big Brake Kit? I've got 15's but the brake rotors are 13in. How many inches do the Calipers sit over the rotors? You are going to tell me I need 16+ in Wheels.
Curious about the caliper bolt patterns. Would the Teraflex dual calipers bolt to the factory bracket? Or would the factory single piston caliper bolt to the Teraflex bracket? Thanks
Since it’s been over a year how would you rate the Teraflex brakes now? They seem pretty meaty, just for the price I’d hope they’re worth it. About to put some PSC armor on my JLU other than some other suspension upgrades and bumping up the tire size from 255/75R17 too 35x12.50R17. I’m hoping the ball joints and brakes can hold out for a bit more, but the Jeep still has under 4K miles on it. Awesome install video!
My girl friends 2019 rubicon went in to victory jeep shallotte n.c. for a oil change and tire rotation. Came out with both front brake calipers broken and brakeline smashed (compressed). Jeep was perfect going in to dealership, came out damaged. Could mechanic damaged the calipers with the lift???
Brad, so it seems as though the rear brakes didn’t really significantly enhance the overall braking. Is this the case? I just went to 37’s and am considering whether doing just the front brakes.
Nice.... I went with the Dynatrac ProGrips....but my question... Does this kit use special pads or can you use pads you can get at the local parts store?
TrailRecon Yeah, worth confirming. With the Dynatracs, I thought I was stuck with their pads...but then I found this response from them on a forum post: "Hi guys! While the pad compound is a specially designed one by us, the actual pad backing plate is stock. So, until you can get another set of Dynatrac pads, you can always install a set of factory pads from any parts store to keep your Jeep on the road in the meantime. We designed the system with this specifically in mind, so anyone using the ProGrip system wouldn't be stuck due to a pad issue." That made me feel much better.
Brad, great instructional video and it was good to see the comparison on the stock and upgraded Teraflex rotor and caliper. Bigger upgraded brakes are one of the first things a JK needs after moving up to larger tires. Did by chance you take look at the Dynatrac ProGrip Brake kit? I have heard the kit works well, but they (unfortunately?) utilize the stock brake caliper assembly.
The only reason I didn't go with the Dynatrac was because I wanted the dual piston caliper, but I know folks that have been happy with their ProGrip brake kits.
You need a master cylinder with a larger bore now to provide more fluid to those thirsty calipers, if not you will have a soft brake pedal and have to pump your brakes to reach their full braking potential. Imagine if you had enormous calibers the size of a coffee cans you would need a massive amount of pressurized brake fluid for them to grab correct.... same goes for your set up. Job is only half done if you only add larger calipers. Get a larger bore master cylinder and you will be very pleased with the new brakes!
Dennis Arvizu easier install as there is no brake bleeding since the Dynatrac is just extension brackets, rotors, and pads. The cost is lower. And as Brad mentioned, with Tera flex, earlier JKs may need a brake booster, and I have a 2008 so that was a huge factor. I haven't driven a Teraflex equipped jeep, but my brake pedal isn't soft as Brad describes his. They stop very well. Also I can use any OEM pad with the Dynatrac kit since it uses stock calipers. Hard to say what is better, but that is my neutral feedback.
You know I have been watching install picks a lot lately to get ideas for my jeep and I have figured out that a lot of these are people who get free parts sent to them from the factory for making these videos .So must of these videos are nothing more than payed for by parts advertisements .So of course after getting it free your post will be always glowing I would like to see a review that the product is junk for once
Are you saying to add this to the mod that was made or just swap out the stock pads? Do you have any affiliation with this product? Just curious ... it’s a pretty glowing endorsement.
Agood and informative video appreciate the time you take to put together something that helps everyone out. By the way I seen in a earlier video that you have a MCPO sticker on your back window are you active or retired? Myself I'm a Retired MCPO (2009), recently purchased a 14 Rubi about a year ago. Haven't done any upgrades yet just doing a lot of research will start at the end of the month your videos have helped a lot again thanks.
Again with another great video, filled with useful information. Couldn't believe how clean everything was. Did you degrease the whole underside before you started? How long did it take you, start to finish? I don't know about others but I would find it helpful to know if this was your choice and why or a sponsored product install. A quick check of the links you provided and this little upgrade is just over a grand. If you have an earlier JK and want to upgrade the master cylinder tack on another 300 bucks. I'm new to all of this and just trying to learn as much as I can. Don't mean to be rude or anything like that. Perhaps they are just dumb questions and worse observations. My apologies if I have offended anyone.
It always amazes me how clean the underneath of California Jeeps are, makes me so jealous.
One of the only things that are good about cali
Mines clean, I just have to grind rust and paint it every summer
Another great video. I'm running the same Teraflex Big Brake kit on my JKU. Huge improvement over the stock brakes. You'll really appreciate them out on the trail when you're on a steep rock face and the guy in front of you gets stuck. You'll be able to hold your position without a problem. I noticed that you installed the reservoir part of the front shock away from the spring. When I did that on my Jeep, the tire would just catch the reservoir under full deflection/turn. It was just enough to chew up the Fox decal. To solve the problem, I rotated the reservoir so that it sits about half an inch from the springs. Never had an issue since. Depending on the backspacing of your new wheels, it may not be a problem, but it's something to check out.
These kits are awesome! I did the front and rear Teraflex kits in Nov '17, but also added the Mopar big brake master cylinder and brake booster upgrade. In the end, overall performance felt better than stock even with 35s. For anyone looking into doing the Teraflex upgrade, I'd spring for the larger master cylinder and brake booster so you don't loose firmness. Brad mentioned not needing to upgrade if your Jeep is newer than 2011, but mine is a '13 and the booster and master cylinder in the upgrade kit was definitely bigger. Don't run anything smaller than a 17" with a minimum of 4.5" backspacing.
Thank you for bringing up the master cylinder and booster upgrade to my attention I'm going to look into it.
Any big brake kit is always worth it! I put Tundra brakes on my Tacoma last November and it has been worth it 100% especially running bigger heavier tires.
Jordan Cousland its a 2000
Im sure theres a way. I know on second gens you can use GX460 rotors and the 13WL calipers. Just have to shave the calipers a little to get them to clear.
I installed the same kit front & rear on Project Dirty Willy a long time ago and they stop great. I went with the slotted kit, but I had to fight some squeaking issues for a while. This kit has amazing stopping power on a 2dr! The TeraFlex pads were a little aggressive for a lighter 2dr so I went with some NAPA Premium or Platinum something or others and it doesn't put your face in the windshield anymore. Great upgrade for anyone with larger tires and/or heavy equipment.
Brad did an excellent job outlining how easy any brake job can be. Loved that you actually used a torqued wrench! One thing that I may add, this job is a large undertaking by just taking the wheels off. I would suggest replacing those rear pads while you're at it. It's always best practice to have new surfaces on both the pads and rotors. Additionally, I would've cleaned the old grease off of those slides and cleaned the re-used hardware thoroughly. A clean and freshly lubricated brake system will eliminate any doubts in the future if you develop sticking or squeaks.
All great advice! I did replace my rear brake pads about 5000 miles ago, so that's why I did not replace them during the install.
Brake pads seat to the rotors, that is why you were doing the break in on the front...seat the pad face to the rotor. Those 5000 mile pads were seated to the old rotors, and should not have been reused.
I’ve never used a torque wrench before but I’ve noticed several installs require one. Any recommendations?
Danny Ruth it’s always best to use a torque wrench if you can. It’ll give you the piece of mind knowing it’s right. If you have years of experience knowing what 50ft lbs feels like, it may be no issue. I think where it can make a big difference is with things like lock nuts where it can be hard to judge. Everyone knows that most of the vehicles out there have been built without torque wrenches so take do what you want with my advice haha
Totally worth the money, great job Brad!
I did the dynatrac big brake upgrade the same day, and I had spongy pedal at first as well but now after 150 miles I'm sold. Stoked the teraflex make you feel the same! Awesome content keep it up!!
If you want a chance of getting that rotor off in the future to change it, put anti sneeze on the inner ring where is go onto the drive axle dust cover. Other wise is is hammer time trying to bust it off.
I dont even have a jeep but still like and watch every video!
I installed the Terflex rear disc brake kit on my '02 TJ many years ago.
My TJ is a Sport model so no rear discs from the factory like the Rubi's had.
With 35's my stopping power was scary to say the least with the factory rear drums.
With the Teraflex rear discs it made a significant improvement in stopping. It was a very good upgrade.
I've thought about a big brake kit for the front but am not aware of a simple-to-install kit.
There is/was a kit that required exchanging the outer knuckles, and machining, and lots of work. I would also have to
upgrade my wheels from the present 15's to 17's for caliper clearance, and that brings up a whole lot of wheel/tire issues.
But on the somewhat good side, my brakes are now just concerning, ...not scary anymore. lol
This is a safety issue that is so often overlooked by people who go to bigger tires. Thanks for addressing this. :)
Yep, just saw a post were some one was asking about 15" rims. The smallest rim size for the big brake kit is 17".
Great vid! I did the very same kit and the brake pedal was still a bit too soft. I understand the best solution is to upgrade the M/C to the bigger 1.18" bore. This comes as part of the J8-Mopar BBK. You've come this far, another $250 seems worth it. It'll def get the firm pedal we all want. Bigger bore lets more fluid through under pressure.
Can this big brake kit fit on 17” rims. I drive a jku 2012
When my buddies swapped out my Dana 30/35 (M186/M200) for Dana 44 (M210/M220), I couldn't understand why they insisted I buy the Mopar Big Brakes upgrade kit. I just moved from 285s to 35s, and now it all makes sense. Bigger wheels need bigger brakes. This is a great video, thank you!
Great idea. Big tires always alter the original design/engineering of suspension, steering, gearing and braking. The larger the tires, the less the stock brakes will perform. Same with axle gears, large tires, less performance with the same gear ratios. It's fairly interesting how many folks do not understand the dynamics created with larger tires and suspension/steering components. When you do the math, the differences are huge. Regarding the testing part, brakes will require a good number of miles to seat or break-in before you realize their full potential. The lining and disks have to seat/mesh/wear before they obtain full potential which is about when you notice the disks having their shiny appearance. It's a good idea to brake easy for the first few miles until they are seated in fully. Looks like a great kit...all went smooth.
You always provide your true opinion/impression on your mods. Very helpful. Thank you.
Just curious, why you wouldn't want new rear brake pads that have a proper corresponding compound and better rear calipers, to again match the braking system?
Impressed how quickly you are checking things off the list! Another great upgrade. Ps. Great dog!
I just did the JT rear brake upgrade on my jk And love it!!!
I got this done about a month ago on my jku sport... I think this is something people neglect which is possibly the most important upgrade. I got the slotted ones and now I feel safe letting my kid drive my Jeep.
Tomasz Tyka have you researched slotted rotors off road? E.g. mud and such.
Christopher Michaelson as long as you keep them clean everything should be fine. I know crap will get all up in there but I chose the slotted for the highway/expressway travel I do everyday. I normally have fun on little dirt roads and paths.. For now. I have plans to upgrade my axles and such in the coming years but for now I'm what you would call a "mall crawler". But I like the term "Chicago Crawler" because of all the damn road work and pot holes that never seem to get done/fixed.
There's a drilled and slotted Wrangler TH-cam review of a guy who used them. I don't even use drilled and slotted on my race vehicles anymore. Brake pad tech has come a long way since those rotors were needed. Actually get better pad to rotor contact patch without them.
Lol! Love that, "Chicago Crawler" I'm from Chicago originally and migrated to AZ 5 yrs ago. 2 seasons in Chicago. Winter and road repair! I used to go to Wisconsin via I90. It took them 5 yrs to put in a bridge, 5yrs!
I am sooooo glad I moved to AZ... Well except for the 3 or 4 months of 110 plus temps, but it is a dry heat!
onawhim7737 lmao... You're right... It takes forever to get work done here. But that heat is insane...
There is a larger Mopar MC and booster you can install. It is noticeably bigger and makes a difference. I installed it on my 2016.
thanks for the video! lots of great feedback in the comments! Thanks, Brad!
Brakes are so important. Besides tires, brakes and suspension are the most vital upgrades no matter what type of vehicle you're building! anyways: I usually put on a little anti-seize on the hub surface before putting on rotors, just so next time they don't stick! I also use some " disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads, Idk if it really works or not, but so far i've never had a squeeky brake issue. Also I like to use a paper towel + brake cleaner to clean the rotors, gives me peace of mind that the oils and dirt is coming off and onto the paper towel.
Switched to the Hawk Performance SuperDuty Brake Pads for a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 in my TeraFlex Big Brakes. Break-in procedure is pretty important and I let mine cool over night after. I don't like to skimp on safety items and have spent many times more on brakes and pads for track vehicles.
Iv'e been waiting for someone to cover this topic. Awesome video as usual Brad!
I remember commenting about this when you put the 37's on. I'm glad you finally were able to make the upgrade. It might not seem like a bunch of a difference, but when that granny pulls out in front of you... you will be glad you now have the upgraded brakes.
One thing I do need to add is with the rear brakes. Those little clips the pads ride in probably should have been replaced while you had them off. I've had numerous and by that I do mean A LOT of them break and get lost while driving. So meny that I just have a stock of them in the shop to install as needed. Thankfully they are easily purchased at your local parts store. So, if you hear an odd "click" when just starting to press the brake pedal, (most noticeable pulling into the garage with your windows down) take a look for the clips. As you may have one or more missing.
Anytime you get air in the brake system, it is best to bleed the system fully. On an 02 Camaro we have I only bled the rear brakes once without bleeding the fronts.
Long story short, I wound up ruining the master cylinder, and had to replace it later on when I started losing brake pressure.
Not sure if it was to that specific brake system, but just something I will never do again.
You need to trash the front pads and install a set of EBC Orange Stuff pads. Trust me they will change your life! You think it stops now? The Orange stuff will blow you away! Awesome cold stopping and the hotter they get the more they bite. Zero fade! Plus almost no brake dust! Also the reason you did not notice a difference when you installed the rear brakes is because the rear is only 20% of your braking.
I can confirm that EBC pads will offer a noticeable increase in stopping power, but I will never use those products again. I used the Yellow stuff pads on my track day car and the stopping power was slightly increased compared to the CL pads I normally use. However they generated MASSIVELY more heat. Then started to fade like hell. Nearly boiled the brake fluid they got so hot. They wore very uneven and one pad actually started to crumble a bit, putting the a deep track in the rotor. Needed to replace them both with only about 500 miles on it. Granted, most of that was track time.
Maybe the reds are better, but the yellow stuff pads are not something I would ever consider again on my vehicles.
@@pablomax3045 WOW! I'm taking delivery of Yellow EBC to fit to my JK, here in the UK. A bit concerned about these comments!
The ebc are the best pads for sure but they don't last vary longe but for off road there are worth it...
I did mine about a month ago. My rear pads were about 1/2 gone so i put new ceramic pads on. I also put a nee rear spring kit on (that retain the pads in the caliper) for like $7. Wow what a difference with the 37 toyos im running
My recent brake job used rotors with the same finish and ceramic pads - its smooth a silk tostop
adding a hose from the caliper bleed valve to the bottom of the bleed bottle(under some new/old brake fluid) will make bleeding a 1 person job, because you can just leave it open and it wont suck back in air just brake fluid.
Brad: I know this is a year old video, but two questions about the brakes: (1) any update on how these are working out now that you've had them on for a while, done some trips, done some trails, done some commuting? Still a worthwhile upgrade? Any reliability issues, squeaking etc? (2) on the question of that soft pedal: did you ever consider having someone with the right vacuum tool do a proper professional bleed of the brakes? It doesn't take much air in the system to make the pedal feel mushy, and you had those brake lines open for a moment when you were moving the lines between calipers. PS: enjoyed the podcast you did recently on the Sponsored Rider podcast.
Since I have 35's on my JK, this will be my 1st upgrade.
Just got my 16 rubicon hard rock what a beast compared to my 04 LJ. will be looking into brakes after winch. Learned that lesson on my motor home cracked the rotors clear thru. Only have to show me once!
Congrats on the new Jeep.... man I love the LJ's!
you should changed also the rear parking brakes pads to avoid scratch the new rotors... @ 13:49
Anxious to hear your longer term thoughts. Even with just 35s, with the large front and rear bumpers, winch, cargo, etc.. I feel like I have to plan a day ahead when I want to stop.. lol. After watching the Teraflex video, I'm pretty sure I'll have to pony up for the larger capacity booster on my 2011. Great video!
If you got any air in your ABS module then you need to take it to a shop that can put it on computer and make it actuate the module to also bleed it. That will firm up your pedal as well as the Mopar booster and MC, it is bigger that the ones that are in even the newer JKs.
Do you have any "how-to's" on relocating break lines? Looked thru your channel and didn't see any. Love your videos btw thanks
Great install and looks easy. Why didn’t you put new calipers and brake pads on the rear like the front ?
If you want to take full advantage of any Big Brake kit then big bore master cylinder upgrade is necessary imo. What's the sense of upgrading to 54mm dual piston calipers if you're not giving them the additional fluid volume that they require to optimize performance? You're just increasing clamping surface but not clamping force.
I hope that you didn't forget the bolts that lock the brake disc to your hubs as you don't want your brake discs from breaking loose when you need them most.
Vehicles with disc brakes all around. Rarely have a very firm pedal. Due to no adjustment to the caliper. If you had rear drums your pedal could get firmer. Cause you can adjust your rear brakes tighter. You will notice the difference in braking on the street and down hill trails.
I do have a question though... Do you have a link to your impact wrench?
Please Brad, answer his question
Looks like your basic craftsman.
Dest Droid I'm assuming that too because of the color pattern. I'm just wondering because I'd like to keep one in the Jeep... Have a bad back and don't want to be using a tire iron.
It's the Craftsman C3 1/2" Heavy Duty Impact Gun: amzn.to/2mstxnL
TrailRecon jackpot! Appreciate the help!
Great video! I am thinking of upgrading but using JL parts. Well see what happenes 😊
So you don't get the same levels of rust as we do in the Great white north but if you want your rotors to always come off with no extra motivation, coat the hub in anti-seize
Great video! Give your brakes some time to settle in, usually between 150 to 250 miles, and I can almost bet you that they'll get better .
Good luck!
I see that on the front brakes you installed the brake line so that the bend in the line is towards the inside of the suspension. I did that as well - which almost burst the line during some hard steering.
You mangled the bolt head at 13:07 because you're using 12-sided socket (well, ratcheting wrench) on a high-torque 6-sided bolt... use a 6-sided socket on a ratchet and avoid that mess! I did the same to my oil drain plug once after jiffy-lube put it in way tight.
My brakes are still soft 😬 I am going to try your process of driving and not stoping
How often do you flush out the old brake fluid. It's recommended to be done. Every 2 to 4yrs. As brake fluid breaks down. Plus its a great way to get sum good brake pedal feel with fresh synthetic dot4 fluid
Hey Brad, how do you feel about this upgrade now that some time has passed? Do you still like them? Any issues that you've had or would have done differently now?
One of the best upgrades I've done... well worth the time and money.
Definitely impressive looking! Putting these on my list. I'm running 37's also, and have noticed a need to upgrade.
The more changes I do to my Jeep the more changes I need to do to my Jeep. Get a 3 1/2 lift with 35" tires.....a new drive shaft will need to be added soon after. Install a new steel bumper w/ winch & lights......new brakes will be needed to stop that additional weight. I still got a Dana 30 front axel housing that'll need to be replaced down the road. Especially if I plan on going 37"'s. Not to mention regearing.
You should remember: Anti-sieze is your friend! ;-) Put on between your rotor and hub and between rotor and rim, etc. etc.
Aluminum anti-seize is not your friend, it's too toxic. Pony-up the extra $$$ and get Copper anti-seize.
From Russia, with LOVE....
I like the way you make the install video's always very detailed. Only thing I would do extra is add grey grease to the back of the rotors to keep the from seising up.
Just FYI for anyone looking to do this upgrade, do NOT use brake clean to clean off the rotors, I work with these rotors on a daily basis and it can ruin the coating on the outside. If possible, AC cleaner is a good alternative but if unavailable use a microfiber cloth and alcohol
good stuff looks like they could have made the tolerance with the lugs better
Better brakes are always a great idea
i'm really surprised the rear didn't replace with a dual piston caliper.
Those brakes look pretty cool Brad. I just went to 37’s on my TJ with Dana 44’s. This looks like some OT money may have to be stashed away for my new purchase. Nice job on the video!
Kevin Murphy don't bother with teraflex. Your money is better spent on Wilwoods. For $200 more you get a lighter dimpled rotor, SS brakelines and an actual 4 piston brake caliper. That's also lighter.
Good video Brad, been looking at this upgrade for my rig too. Thanks Brother!
CONGRATS on hitting 80K. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you! Pretty crazy!
Question here...Why would increasing the size of the rear rotors but leaving the brake pads the same size have any effect on stopping? The surface area of the parts in contact is still the same which is limited by the size of the brake pads.
Carbon Fiber-Ceramic Brake Pads are a upgrade over semi-metallic
Great video Brad. I wish they made these for the FJ Cruiser. I think you will notice the rear ones more when you are on the trails and coming down obstacles.
I absolutely noticed them this weekend coming down the mountain at Big Bear... huge improvement!
Did anyone ever have issues with the angle of the brake line coming off the banjo bolt seen at 8:37? I installed the front kit about 6 months ago and haven’t had any issues but it just seems pinched close when the wheel is turned…
Hi Brad, was wondering if the vented brakes are better or worse for off-road use? Seams like they would just plug up with mud. (I live in Florida)
Needs the bigger brake booster upgrade as well
Got any idea on what the minimum ID Wheel Size you need for the Teraflex Big Brake Kit? I've got 15's but the brake rotors are 13in. How many inches do the Calipers sit over the rotors? You are going to tell me I need 16+ in Wheels.
Matt Glover 17inch wheel is needed I believe
Curious about the caliper bolt patterns. Would the Teraflex dual calipers bolt to the factory bracket? Or would the factory single piston caliper bolt to the Teraflex bracket? Thanks
Very good and useful video. Thanks for sharing Brad.
These that much better than what Crown offers to justify the price?
Love those waiting for Black Friday
Depends on the colour you paint them.
Since it’s been over a year how would you rate the Teraflex brakes now? They seem pretty meaty, just for the price I’d hope they’re worth it. About to put some PSC armor on my JLU other than some other suspension upgrades and bumping up the tire size from 255/75R17 too 35x12.50R17. I’m hoping the ball joints and brakes can hold out for a bit more, but the Jeep still has under 4K miles on it.
Awesome install video!
My girl friends 2019 rubicon went in to victory jeep shallotte n.c. for a oil change and tire rotation. Came out with both front brake calipers broken and brakeline smashed (compressed). Jeep was perfect going in to dealership, came out damaged. Could mechanic damaged the calipers with the lift???
I am guessing these wont work on OEM 16 inch wheels? 17 inch?
Brad, so it seems as though the rear brakes didn’t really significantly enhance the overall braking. Is this the case? I just went to 37’s and am considering whether doing just the front brakes.
I'd love to know if any of those parts are factory parts from another vehicle.
Why wouldn’t you install the calliper and pads all at once?
Nice.... I went with the Dynatrac ProGrips....but my question... Does this kit use special pads or can you use pads you can get at the local parts store?
They are there own pads, however I believe you can use pads from a 2010 Dodge 1500... but I need to confirm that.
TrailRecon
Yeah, worth confirming. With the Dynatracs, I thought I was stuck with their pads...but then I found this response from them on a forum post: "Hi guys! While the pad compound is a specially designed one by us, the actual pad backing plate is stock. So, until you can get another set of Dynatrac pads, you can always install a set of factory pads from any parts store to keep your Jeep on the road in the meantime. We designed the system with this specifically in mind, so anyone using the ProGrip system wouldn't be stuck due to a pad issue." That made me feel much better.
TrailRecon I've heard the same thing about using Ram pads. Any further findings since your comment a week ago?
Quick question doesn't this upgrade render your front and rear brake shields useless?
wouldn't a larger master cylinder help as well. please keep up the vidios thankes
They recommend a larger cylinder for 2007-2011 JK's, the later models already have a larger master cylinder.
There is a larger Mopar MC and booster you can install. It is noticeably bigger and makes a difference. I installed it on my 2016
So this pretty much is all the parts from a JL installed in a JK .👍 I’m gonna see if I can trick the system at autozone 😁😁😁😁
Brad I was wondering how you like how these are preforming now that you have run them on and off road for a while?
Brad, great instructional video and it was good to see the comparison on the stock and upgraded Teraflex rotor and caliper. Bigger upgraded brakes are one of the first things a JK needs after moving up to larger tires.
Did by chance you take look at the Dynatrac ProGrip Brake kit? I have heard the kit works well, but they (unfortunately?) utilize the stock brake caliper assembly.
Mark Pate w
The only reason I didn't go with the Dynatrac was because I wanted the dual piston caliper, but I know folks that have been happy with their ProGrip brake kits.
You need a master cylinder with a larger bore now to provide more fluid to those thirsty calipers, if not you will have a soft brake pedal and have to pump your brakes to reach their full braking potential.
Imagine if you had enormous calibers the size of a coffee cans you would need a massive amount of pressurized brake fluid for them to grab correct.... same goes for your set up. Job is only half done if you only add larger calipers.
Get a larger bore master cylinder and you will be very pleased with the new brakes!
I went with the Dynatrac Progrips which are awesome. Either choice, you are right, big tires make bigger brakes an essential and what a difference!!
Dennis Arvizu easier install as there is no brake bleeding since the Dynatrac is just extension brackets, rotors, and pads. The cost is lower. And as Brad mentioned, with Tera flex, earlier JKs may need a brake booster, and I have a 2008 so that was a huge factor. I haven't driven a Teraflex equipped jeep, but my brake pedal isn't soft as Brad describes his. They stop very well. Also I can use any OEM pad with the Dynatrac kit since it uses stock calipers. Hard to say what is better, but that is my neutral feedback.
Dynatrac is awesome in many ways. They have quality designs !
installing the Teraflex Big Brake kit, did you have any issues with the brake proportioning valve?
You know I have been watching install picks a lot lately to get ideas for my jeep and I have figured out that a lot of these are people who get free parts sent to them from the factory for making these videos .So must of these videos are nothing more than payed for by parts advertisements .So of course after getting it free your post will be always glowing I would like to see a review that the product is junk for once
Cant wait to see Rob's Venture the Wild Jeep in the next video... patiently waiting.
Rob is such a great guy... I think you guys will enjoy the video!
The only thing cleaner than your installation is your presentation. Nice Video.
Hey Brad, what is the smallest diameter wheel you can run with those larger brake calipers? TYI
Don't forget to paint the calipers, it adds 25 horsepower each.
Everyone knows that.
Are you saying to add this to the mod that was made or just swap out the stock pads? Do you have any affiliation with this product? Just curious ... it’s a pretty glowing endorsement.
Agood and informative video appreciate the time you take to put together something that helps everyone out. By the way I seen in a earlier video that you have a MCPO sticker on your back window are you active or retired? Myself I'm a Retired MCPO (2009), recently purchased a 14 Rubi about a year ago. Haven't done any upgrades yet just doing a lot of research will start at the end of the month your videos have helped a lot again thanks.
Thank you! And yes, retired HMCM almost 2 years now.
When you relocate the caliper for larger rotors how does that effect the clearance on the inside of the 15" rim most of use use.
Most JKs and JLs come stock with 17” rims.
Again with another great video, filled with useful information. Couldn't believe how clean everything was. Did you degrease the whole underside before you started? How long did it take you, start to finish? I don't know about others but I would find it helpful to know if this was your choice and why or a sponsored product install. A quick check of the links you provided and this little upgrade is just over a grand. If you have an earlier JK and want to upgrade the master cylinder tack on another 300 bucks.
I'm new to all of this and just trying to learn as much as I can. Don't mean to be rude or anything like that. Perhaps they are just dumb questions and worse observations. My apologies if I have offended anyone.
I have a 2016 jeep wrangler, i was planning on doing this upgrade also. Do i need to get the heavy duty mopat brake master cylindet as well? Thanks
Great video as Always Brad!
Is there a video for used Wranglers for sale in the states? Like one for modded Wranglers?
Cheers from Sweden
Really well done video Brad. Was waiting to see this one, and glad you put it together so well. Do you think backspacing would effect the install ?
Thank you! I believe you can install these on stock rubicon rims as long as they are 17"
Confirmed. You can! You do need "at least" 17"