Very good movie. I once tried to use hot air for old boards with through-hole assembly and it ended with the board delaminating (detaching the tracks with the solder mask from the rest of the board) at the point of heating. The paths are OK, but the separation remains. Therefore, the method you present here is absolutely OK. It takes a long time, but it is much safer than with hot air.
Thank you your post! Very well explained the process. A side note: I dip the wick to flux and apply a tiny amount of tint to the soldering iron's tip to help the exchange of heat between the surfaces. It uses more wick but the result is quicker and better. Considering the cleaning: the cotton materail is good. Try to use toothbrush to press the cotton to the surface, it works well.
This video really helped me in removing the PPU from my NES. This made me realize how I really need to be patient and take my time in figuring out which pins are still stuck especially since I wasn't using a desoldering gun.
One of my frustrations with the older boards is the fragile artwork. The boards for computers back then were not designed for rework. It seems like no matter how careful I am I usually end up pulling a via, pad or trace. Thank goodness for schematics and bodge wire. Good video and good info on the additional solder flux with the braid
Yes, this style of circuit board were a real pain to remove chips from and not damage it. This style board looks exactly like the digital frequency counter board in a Kenwood ts820s hf transceiver. Very hard to remove chips and not cause more problems. Arghhhhh!
Now do this on a 40 yr old board where the pads are VERY sensitive. If i try that swirling trick with the desoldering gun, it destroys the pad no matter what pressure I use.
I've tried this on 30+ year old Amiga's which have fragile pads and it works well. I think the key is to not put any pressure on the board while swirling. I hold the de-soldering gun off the pad slightly.
Looking for tips. I have a chip I'm trying to remove using the same methods, but no matter how much solder I put on it, and the desoldering pump (Using the SS-02 Solder Sucker) I can't pull the solder out of the hole. It liquifies, I try to solder sucker it, and nothing. It worked for every other hole, except for two. I tried using my desolder braid on the top on both the stubborn holes and still I can't pull it out. Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?
Sometimes they can be stubborn. If there's only two legs not free, I would hold the iron on one leg and work it out slightly and then do the same on the other leg. Keep alternating between the legs until the chip comes free. The key is to not force anything.
@@RetrospectiveNZ Thanks a lot for the reply! I will try that. I guess I'll just keep working at them slowly and most definitely I won't try to force it.
Thanks a lot for the replies. I managed to get the chip out through a lot of heating, wiggling gently, more heat, solder braid. Rinse repeat. There was also solder that had gone under the chip which is what was keeping it attached. I had to free one side and lift it enough on one side to be able to get my braid under the chip to remove the solder. It was an extremely stubborn chip. Really wish I had a heat gun from the start. Thanks again!
Didn't expect to see a magic show, or an unearthly patient man.
Well done, sir.
Best part is that that proves is possible.
Very good movie. I once tried to use hot air for old boards with through-hole assembly and it ended with the board delaminating (detaching the tracks with the solder mask from the rest of the board) at the point of heating. The paths are OK, but the separation remains. Therefore, the method you present here is absolutely OK. It takes a long time, but it is much safer than with hot air.
Thank you your post! Very well explained the process. A side note: I dip the wick to flux and apply a tiny amount of tint to the soldering iron's tip to help the exchange of heat between the surfaces. It uses more wick but the result is quicker and better. Considering the cleaning: the cotton materail is good. Try to use toothbrush to press the cotton to the surface, it works well.
This video really helped me in removing the PPU from my NES. This made me realize how I really need to be patient and take my time in figuring out which pins are still stuck especially since I wasn't using a desoldering gun.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you.
One of my frustrations with the older boards is the fragile artwork. The boards for computers back then were not designed for rework. It seems like no matter how careful I am I usually end up pulling a via, pad or trace. Thank goodness for schematics and bodge wire. Good video and good info on the additional solder flux with the braid
Yes, this style of circuit board were a real pain to remove chips from and not damage it. This style board looks exactly like the digital frequency counter board in a Kenwood ts820s hf transceiver. Very hard to remove chips and not cause more problems.
Arghhhhh!
Would it work if you applied the flux to the wick instead of the components?
Now do this on a 40 yr old board where the pads are VERY sensitive. If i try that swirling trick with the desoldering gun, it destroys the pad no matter what pressure I use.
I've tried this on 30+ year old Amiga's which have fragile pads and it works well. I think the key is to not put any pressure on the board while swirling. I hold the de-soldering gun off the pad slightly.
Excellent man.. Hat's off to you..
sounds like a ZD915, seems like the highest pitch desoldering iron, the fr-301 and s993a are lower pitch.
fantastic video thanks !!
Hello, I always seem to struggle with desoldering wick. What temp should I have my soldering set to.?
Whats wrong with using the wick on both sides? Would it damage anything if one used the wick to desolder these chips instead of desoldering guns?
Desoldering wick works well but I find the solder sucker gets even more unwanted solder out.
Hello, how do you make your flux? Are you using rosin dissolved in IPA? If so, using what ratio? Thanks!
Hi, I'm using a flux I bought via RS Components. Not sure of its make up sorry.
@@RetrospectiveNZ Thank you, no problem. It was just a thought that you made it! :) Useful video btw!
Looking for tips. I have a chip I'm trying to remove using the same methods, but no matter how much solder I put on it, and the desoldering pump (Using the SS-02 Solder Sucker) I can't pull the solder out of the hole. It liquifies, I try to solder sucker it, and nothing. It worked for every other hole, except for two. I tried using my desolder braid on the top on both the stubborn holes and still I can't pull it out. Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?
Sometimes they can be stubborn. If there's only two legs not free, I would hold the iron on one leg and work it out slightly and then do the same on the other leg. Keep alternating between the legs until the chip comes free. The key is to not force anything.
@@RetrospectiveNZ Thanks a lot for the reply! I will try that. I guess I'll just keep working at them slowly and most definitely I won't try to force it.
@@erick103
If the you know the chip is no good you can snip the stubborn ones with some small side cutters.
Thanks a lot for the replies. I managed to get the chip out through a lot of heating, wiggling gently, more heat, solder braid. Rinse repeat. There was also solder that had gone under the chip which is what was keeping it attached. I had to free one side and lift it enough on one side to be able to get my braid under the chip to remove the solder. It was an extremely stubborn chip. Really wish I had a heat gun from the start. Thanks again!
Also q-tip in Canada:)
Great video!
RETROSPECTIVE< what is the main difference between a "Masked" ROM chip compared to a normal ROM chip & PROM chip?
It was programmed by the factory - one time programmable device.
Great content cheers Ricky 🕺💃🎶🎵🐈⬛🎸🥷🤺🐅🔥🙏🎈