Thank you for making these tutorials. I've been watching all your videos and practicing. My soldering has improved immensely. Full credit to your clear instructions and high quality videos. You have a knack for teaching.
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been of use to you , it makes posting them worthwhile if they help people .I will post more when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi. That was extremely impressive. The quality of the joints on the QFP (which I'm mainly interested in) was amazing! Thank you. Whilst I'm sure it's mainly your technique, just to help, could you please tell me what solder and flux you're using (there seem to be loads)?
I watch all of your videos. Your videos are spot on and i find them very helpful. I have only done mostly through hole stuff and the surface mount stuff always seemed like it was out of my realm of ability. But, after watching all of your videos i feel much more confident. now i am playing around with surface mount soldering. Thank you for taking the time to provide us with the knowledge and confidence to tackle this technology.
Hey. I put off looking at SMT for literally years and stuck with through-hole parts. Was so pleased to make the switch. Buy some practice boards and get stuck in. I started with 1206 but my next board will probably be 0805. If you limit yourself to SOIC 50mil parts initially you’ll find it’s really easy to get started. Good flux is really important though.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Originally I was told by a couple of people to put some TH-cam videos on as I could probably help a few people with their soldering . I'm glad that people have found the videos useful and hopefully more and more people try to do some soldering . Thanks again for watching and good luck with all your future projects , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people with their soldering projects . Thanks again , take care 👍
Not only your soldering technique but how you hold the iron tip is very helpful to know. I'm taking notes keeping them handy on the workbench. Thank you for taking the time in making this video easy to understand along with detailed instructions and quality photography, most appreciated! Now if only I can steady my hands to complete the job. 🙂
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated . Hopefully this video and others I have posted can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video useful , that's great to hear . If my soldering channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . I will always post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
I've tried different tips on an old PLCC I first desoldered from an old PCB with low meld solder, cleanup and resoldered it again with amtech flux. I used JBC c245-931 spoon type tip which worked but not as clean as yours. I also tried a small cone tip, 0.4mm point but that didn't go well, couldn't get the solder on the pad. A bent conical tip with the wider side over the pins I could drag solder, though there are a few pins that are bridged, and removed with wick. That gave the best results so far. The conical and bent tip were off brand jbc though, that came with the T3A station. Having a microscope really helps a lot, I did it with a magnifying glass but had to check after soldering. I'm planning on using a mobile and microscope/zoom app with a phone holder. First tests seems to work. A poor mans microscope lol! Thanks for sharing, this was very helpful! It looks easier than it is, it really takes some practice but it's not really that hard. Just practice on something that you can mess up without worry before soldering a $100 chip or something.
Very nice video…. This is the first soldering tutorial where I actually like all joints. There are some horrible videos out there. Could you add the type of paste, solder and flux used to the video description to get such nice results? 🙏
I'd like to ask the same, I have excellent products and my results are nothing like this. Also, did you have any pins connected to a ground pour in this? As soon as you hit those you normally run into trouble. How do you deal with those?
@@mrsolderfix3996 I hope you understand the Pun intended over the "The Art of Electronic" book :) but in this case in video format and for soldering. ...
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . If I can help anyone out then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
When you clean the chips with cloth (at 13:30 for example), how do you prevent damage from static electricity, do you f.e. wear an antistatic bracelet? Is there a danger for static electricity at all? :)
Hi , thank you for your question. I basically wear a simple anti static wrist band connected to a grounding plug which simply plugs into your wall socket . Many kits available online . Also I use the anti static mat . Also for certain jobs I wear antistatic shoes and have a small amount of anti static flooring down . As long as you wear the grounded wrist band that's fine. Thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad the videos have been of help to you , that's great to hear . Good luck with your TH-cam channel I hope it does well . Took mine a year or so before I got much interest but I stuck with it and it's nice that people like yourself take the time to comment . Thanks again, take care 👍
2 quick question if you don't mind: - at 4:32 are you touching the pin with the iron and then the pin with the solder? - I have very little expercience soldering and only have a "large" 1.5mm tip. Is it possible to solder some of these types of components with it? Thank you and thank for the great video as always
Hi , thank you for your comment. Most of the time I always tin my iron with a tiny amount of solder then place it on the pin then almost at the same time I come in with the solder . Other people would do it the other way round but that's my preference. You would probably struggle to do any kind of small fine pitch soldering with a 1.5mm solder tip but maybe the PLCC is achievable. The main thing when doing the fine pitch stuff is to get some 0.25mm solder . This really is the biggest help to fine pitch soldering . Hope that helps , take care 👍
Hi . A better quality soldering iron makes a massive difference as firstly you should be able to get various tip sizes for it , whereas the cheap irons just tend to have 1 quite large one . I use a Weller TCP S iron that with the power supply you need is about £200. Still a lot of money but I'm sure there are others cheaper than mine that are a decent quality. Different size solders is a must as well in my opinion . I've spoke about this in some of my videos. Hopefully you'll get what you need and start to get way better ( practice and you will ) anyway thanks for your comments and watching the video , take care 👍
Hi@@mrsolderfix3996 Actually, my biggest problem is getting an iron and tips in the first place. Whithout importing, usually what is available is 600€+ soldering stations or 10/20€ irons. I managed to buy a JBC 40ST with the 1.5mm tip but I can't buy any other tips. I'll see if I can find the Weller TCP S iron. I don't mind having to save a little extra money and buy something better that will last a long time. But with iron or no iron I'll keep practicing for sure. I really like soldering and find it very relaxing! Thank you once again 👍
@@neo256mb I've been almost tempted by those but I'm not sure how reliable they are in the long term. Specially, how long the tips last. But I do hope I can try one of them in the future. They look very very handy.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Hopefully the videos can help a few people out with their soldering. / desoldering issues. If they can then I'm happy. Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you for your great video. I had to solder some TQFPs a few years ago, and couldn't find any decent guide videos then. With the short vertical-edge contacts on the TQFP, and the pads on the PCB I was using not extending very far beyond the chip, there wasn't a lot of space for excess solder to go, so there was a rather fine line between too little solder, and too much. By trial and error using some cheap sacrificial chips (the ones I needed to solder were rather expensive), I found out the easiest way for me was to use excess solder paste for the hot air soldering, and then clean up any bridged pins later. I couldn't get cleaning up with braid to work, though I don't use braid much, and I may well just have been doing it wrong, but it was surprisingly easy with just a soldering iron. Using a relatively large (~2.3x4mm) flat oval tip, a clean and freshly-wiped iron drawn along an edge of the chip soaked up excess solder very well, and could even clear most of a whole line of bridged pins on the first pass. I guess that the large area of the tip gave plenty of space for the excess solder to go.
Hi , 100% true . Adding flux to your solder braid transforms it into super braid . I've even posted a video short on my channel showing this , so far it's had 1.2 million views with lots of positive comments . Thanks for commenting, take care 👍
I’ve done hand soldering using leaded solder for many years. I could easily switch to lead free with absolutely no problem. I’ll use that liquid flux, the low temp solder to aid with removal and then replace the chip.
Learning the basics of hot air soldering recently for my repair business. So I can take on more advanced and harder projects. But my biggest concern is finding a good pair of tweezers...
Hi there Amazing and entertaining instructional vids to be sure! Ty. You mentioned ,when doing the Silicon chip, that you put a little bit of flux on your iron just before soldering the legs? How do you add the flux do your iron? Do you dip it in the flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. If I said I add flux to my iron I made a mistake , obviously should be to the items being soldered. Glad you enjoy the videos though , thanks for your support 👍
nice video as always. I would like to understand if when you clean the card from the flux how do you remove the one hidden behind the terminals or that remains under the chip? by wiping do you solve the conduction problem? or are you using a flux that doesn't have that problem? thank you and wait for your guide.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Yes you are right flux is somewhat conductive but after soldering and cooling is way less conductive than when originally applied . I use a no clean flux that manufacturers say in most applications the conductivity of this flux is way below causing any issues . Also in the video I state that I usually clean my boards in a certain way ( a complete cleaning video on TH-cam that I've posted shows my cleaning methods ) in this video the methods used totally remove all flux from around and underneath components as I did mention in the video I was only doing a light clean for the sake of this video so you could see the joints better . Hopefully that helps a little . Thanks again 👍
Hi , i use a Weller TCP S soldering iron , comes in 2 parts , base unit and soldering wand. Base units are harder to find these days though as it's quite an old style unit but one that I still absolutely love . The 2 tips I use mainly for it are PTP7 and DD8 , one is a small conical and the other a large flat sided. I also use a micro size Metcal iron but these are many hundreds of pounds so only really for the real serious solderers . Lots of people wanting a cheaper iron which will still do a great job go for irons made by Hakko. Plenty of TH-camrs show these irons in their videos so might be worth looking up that make . Hope that helps , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I will post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again for your support of my channel , take care 👍
Personally I prepare the pads with solder and then I apply the IC with flux, then I use my hot air station while holding the IC with my tweezers down. It works every time for IC's where they have too many pins. A nice microscope with clear view always helps though.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I use a Weller TCP S soldering iron and a small conical tip PTP7 for all of my fine pitch soldering in my videos . I don't use a reservoir tip ever . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for the extra info. I use a Weller WS 81 with a WSP 80 iron and a medium size chisel tip for most of my prototype work; mainly THT with an occasional SMD component across the Veroboard strips. My latest project also uses some mains 230V Voltage, so I definitely need to design a PCB for that. Still, I test the logic circuits on breadboard and Veroboard first to see if it all works as intended. I'm an amateur after all😁
Hi Mr. thanks for useful video. I have a question for you. Soldering a QFN IC you ad some soldering wire in the large center pad. How is it the right ammount and what happer in case of to much material? is it possible a short circuit between the pads? Thanks for you tips
Hi , thank you for your comment. If your adding solder or paste to the centre pad you never need much . The mistake people make Is always adding to much especially round the edge pads , but like I showed if you add a small amount you will get a good joint with no bridges. The centre pad I tend to tin a small section because when melted this will spread across the whole pad and because QFN's sit flat to the board soldering contact will be made . Also most ( not all ) centre pads have via's that any excess tends to run down . Don't press and hold the QFN down as this could cause a problem . If you have to nudge the QFN down gently to get a row of joints to take ( like I did ) let go as soon as they are joined , but normally you don't have to do this. Hope that helps , take care 👍
Thank you for your amazing videos! Your explanations are always clear and simple to follow! Is there a way in which I can present you with one of my current soldering challenges.. I feel like it will be child's play for someone with so much experience but I would love to hear your approach.
Hi , thank you for your support, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues. Thanks again , take care 👍
Hey Newbie here: Q -> I had intended on using Paste with gull wing IC and SMC. My Question is can I apply the paste directly to the IC/SMC instead of fiddling with the board ? Does that seem sensible to you?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Personally I've never known anyone add paste to the component rather than the PCB pads . I can imagine it would get more messy doing it that way so I would definitely recommend adding paste to the board rather than the IC legs as also there's a risk of bending some of the pins doing it that way . Thanks again , good luck 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. The microscope is a stereo long reach microscope purchased from GT Vision ( England) , it's their own brand model but I love it . Branded models like Mieje are 5 times more expensive and while being amazing they are not worth the cost. I do all my filming though on a mobile phone camera with a macro lens attached , that's how I get angles from the side and not directly above . Hopefully that helps , thanks again , take care 👍
Love the content. Really good tips and tricks. Have you got any advice for de-soldering and soldering small BGA devices. Have had limited success fixing tablets and the like.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm shortly going to post another removing devices , connectors etc video on TH-cam ( within the next 10 days ). The very last component I'm showing in this video is the removal and cleaning up of the pads of a small BGA device ( 81 pads ) , hopefully this will be of use to you . I'm not showing the refitting of a new BGA , I will probably do that in the future sometime. Thanks again , good luck 👍
hi, thanks for videos. what kind of mobile phone are you using to record these ? what kind of mount and extra Lens on the phone? how do you get it to do autofocus? If you put Affliate amazon links in the video details for us on some of your recording equipment and if we buy the stuff, it helps you out. I've been recommending your videos to everyone I know on different social media. I like how clean you keep all the videos.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I know there's a large selection of PCB sets and projects on Amazon and eBay that look like they cover what you need . Might be worth checking these 2 places out first . Thanks again and good luck 👍
Hi , the best fluid I've ever found for cleaning PCB's is called Ultrasolve. Available from all the main stockists , Farnell , RS Components etc . Not sure in America with Mouser and Digikey but maybe they stock it . I posted a video on TH-cam a while back showing how I clean my PCB's , all the tips I know are in that video Thank you for your comment , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . If they help anyone out then that's great . I will keep posting more whenever I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
He covers this in a previous video. It is SMFL, and it comes in an aerosol can. I’m a total convert thanks to Mr Solder Fix. My usual technique is to squirt a bit into a bottle top and wait for it to go tacky before applying it with a brush. It’s weird, but great stuff.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Unfortunately after having used SMFL200D for many years it recently looks like it's been discontinued by the maker. I'm still looking into trying to find a similar flux . Think RS Components do one that looks pretty good but it's about £10 a can more so I will keep looking . If anyone knows of a good alternative to this liquid flux please drop a comment in so hopefully it can help us all out. Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Hey, can you offer a video of soldering leads to an existing AMD, like an old fashioned mod chip? I used to have to take my PSX into an v electronics store where they would advertise that they could apply mod chips to individual pins on SFFP connectors so I would like to see that demonstrated if possible.
Hi . Your right BGA's are tough as really you need a proper stencil to solder paste the board and a reflow oven to flow the paste , things I don't have . Also there's no way even if I had this stuff that I could film these devices very clearly. I've put plenty of micro BGA's on ( 6 pads ) with a hot air rework station and sticky flux but even these would be too small for me to film very clearly . Sorry I can't help on this one , take care 👍
Hi , I've always used a great flux called SMFL200D . Unfortunately though it seems to have recently become discontinued so I'm in the process of trying to find a good new flux . At this moment I'm still looking so I can't really tell you what I now use . Sorry about that .
The soldering iron methods look as though they are much gentler on the chip itself - a quick touch to each leg and it's done. The hot air method seems to expose the whole device to much more heat and for much longer. Obviously, that isn't really a problem because it works but it does seem counter intuitive.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Both methods are very safe if done correctly. I've used a heat gun hundreds of times over the years and to my best knowledge haven't damaged an IC due to the heat . I normally use about 370 degrees centigrade and they seem to handle this ok. When you have a QFN ic you don't have an option really due to the pad underneath the body. The soldering iron method does seem gentler , your right , but both methods overall are really safe. Thanks again for your comment, take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . I normally only use 2 sizes in my videos , they are 0.25mm and 0.5mm , both from BLT Circuits ( England ) . I have larger sizes i.e 0.7mm but never really use them . Thanks again 👍
Could you please explain (in the comment meybe) a little more about type of the tip of the solder iron, temperature of the solder iron, type of paste flux and soldering wire. Thanks in advance.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Hi I've mentioned all of these points in plenty of my other videos , it's hard to always keep repeating the same information every time . Hopefully you can find what you need elsewhere . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi . I don't actually own any 0.25mm leaded solder now . If I said it was leaded it's my mistake ( don't think I did ) , as a lot of companies are phasing out the smaller leaded . You can still get larger diameter leaded fairly easy . I've seen people on eBay selling 0.25mm leaded but I've always brought mine from Farnell or BLT Circuits in England as i know its the proper stuff. I get shiny joints from my unleaded which is Nitrosol Sn100SB , flux : SD-82 , 2.2%. BLT Circuits sell this. Unleaded stays shinier when not put through reflow ovens but instead hand soldered , causing people to think your using leaded. Hope that helps , thanks for your comment 👍
Thanks very much, I buy from Farnell too and their unleaded goes down to 0.15mm but I prefer the leaded which is difficult to find. I have leaded 0.274mm from Wharton metals but that’s the smallest.
Hi , that's why I like making these videos because people like yourself pass me information that I didn't know , like the leaded you said you used ( Wharton ) . It's good that we can all help each other out as I've always said , no one knows everything and we can all learn more. BLT Circuits are a good reliable firm . A few places I have worked at have always got their solders and solder paste from them , and it's very good quality . Thanks again 👍
Those PLCCs are a pain. I’ve never tried soldering them with an iron and normally use paste, but you have to get the amount spot on. Will try your technique next time.
Hi , if you follow how I do these I'm sure you'll be fine . They are actually pretty easy once you've tacked them into position . I've fitted hundreds over the years and never really struggled as the legs tend to be farther apart than most IC's. Flux is key to these being made easier as the solder travels round the pin pretty quickly and you can get a lovely secure joint without to much difficulty. Good luck with when you try these and thank you again for your support of my channel , take care 👍
Yup, 50mil spacing. My normal approach is a bead of paste but occasionally I get a pair of pins bridged, or worse, not enough solder under the J and end up messing around with “your” lovely flux and the only way to clear a bridge is with air and the iron. That said my last board with 3 PLCCs and a couple of SOJs turned out ok. I’m very keen to try an alternative that is quicker and more “exact” though. I’ll need to sort through my iron tips for the right one. I’ve soldered 240 pin QFPs, but PLCCs out of their sockets still give me the willies. Thanks for your videos mate, you really are the absolute expert at this stuff and I really appreciate you taking your time to educated us, less knowledgeable, folks.
Hi , I know you will get on fine with the PLCC's . Once tacked on and checked for positioning they are pretty easy to solder . As you see in the video I use a small conical shape tip and just do one pin at a time . This works every time for me and I very rarely get a short to remove doing it this way . You will definitely be ok . Thanks for supporting my channel , very much appreciated, take care 👍
is there a reason that your vias are exposed? I came cross it sometimes and mine is always isolated with solder mask. I'd like to know if it is somehow beneficial
Hi , thank you for your comment. No there's not really a reason I can think of why they would be exposed like this . This isn't my product , it's just a board I have laying around . Maybe they are cheaper to manufacture doing it without solder mask. Personally I like vias to be protected but I guess some people aren't that worried. Thanks again for your comment , take care 👍
@@thenextproblem8001 yeah you do have to be careful. You’d definitely want to avoid untented vias around pads. The default in KiCAD is to always tent em and that’s what I go with.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I will always put new postings up when I can as long as people find them useful . Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects, take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've showed a few removal methods for IC's in other videos . I will try and do one featuring different types of IC's . I know I've shown QFN and BGA removals and I did an old video showing 4 ways to remove a 2 row IC. I don't post that many videos due to lack of spare time but I will try . Thanks again , take care 👍
I feel so inadequate watching you work. You treat those components like you are a plumber joining pipes. It's sickening. I've got a floor covered with SMDs that have twanged across the room with my ham fisted attempts to hold stuff in place and join the legs. All credit you've obviously done it before 😀. A real masterclass in how it should be done. I think I'm going to take up woodwork.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I started off many years ago in the same way you describe , stuck with it , got better equipment when I could , and with the help of other great people , and plenty of practice just got way better . Hopefully I can pass some knowledge on so other people wanting to improve can do so . Stick with it and we can get better , good luck , and take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
nice bro.. very clean tacks hey, if u want - i have a couple microphones - i can send u if u want - if u do just lmk no charge… just $20 for shipping… jk, really. u dont have to pay anything
Thank you for making these tutorials. I've been watching all your videos and practicing. My soldering has improved immensely. Full credit to your clear instructions and high quality videos. You have a knack for teaching.
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been of use to you , it makes posting them worthwhile if they help people .I will post more when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi. That was extremely impressive. The quality of the joints on the QFP (which I'm mainly interested in) was amazing! Thank you. Whilst I'm sure it's mainly your technique, just to help, could you please tell me what solder and flux you're using (there seem to be loads)?
I watch all of your videos. Your videos are spot on and i find them very helpful. I have only done mostly through hole stuff and the surface mount stuff always seemed like it was out of my realm of ability. But, after watching all of your videos i feel much more confident. now i am playing around with surface mount soldering. Thank you for taking the time to provide us with the knowledge and confidence to tackle this technology.
Hey. I put off looking at SMT for literally years and stuck with through-hole parts. Was so pleased to make the switch. Buy some practice boards and get stuck in. I started with 1206 but my next board will probably be 0805. If you limit yourself to SOIC 50mil parts initially you’ll find it’s really easy to get started. Good flux is really important though.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Originally I was told by a couple of people to put some TH-cam videos on as I could probably help a few people with their soldering . I'm glad that people have found the videos useful and hopefully more and more people try to do some soldering . Thanks again for watching and good luck with all your future projects , take care 👍
It really helps, seeing someone do it properly! Thanks for these.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people with their soldering projects . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks!
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Not only your soldering technique but how you hold the iron tip is very helpful to know. I'm taking notes keeping them handy on the workbench. Thank you for taking the time in making this video easy to understand along with detailed instructions and quality photography, most appreciated! Now if only I can steady my hands to complete the job. 🙂
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated . Hopefully this video and others I have posted can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
I learned a lot from watching this video. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video useful , that's great to hear . If my soldering channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . I will always post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
I've tried different tips on an old PLCC I first desoldered from an old PCB with low meld solder, cleanup and resoldered it again with amtech flux. I used JBC c245-931 spoon type tip which worked but not as clean as yours. I also tried a small cone tip, 0.4mm point but that didn't go well, couldn't get the solder on the pad. A bent conical tip with the wider side over the pins I could drag solder, though there are a few pins that are bridged, and removed with wick. That gave the best results so far. The conical and bent tip were off brand jbc though, that came with the T3A station. Having a microscope really helps a lot, I did it with a magnifying glass but had to check after soldering. I'm planning on using a mobile and microscope/zoom app with a phone holder. First tests seems to work. A poor mans microscope lol!
Thanks for sharing, this was very helpful! It looks easier than it is, it really takes some practice but it's not really that hard. Just practice on something that you can mess up without worry before soldering a $100 chip or something.
Very nice video…. This is the first soldering tutorial where I actually like all joints. There are some horrible videos out there.
Could you add the type of paste, solder and flux used to the video description to get such nice results?
🙏
I'd like to ask the same, I have excellent products and my results are nothing like this. Also, did you have any pins connected to a ground pour in this? As soon as you hit those you normally run into trouble. How do you deal with those?
The Art of (Soldering) Electronics 😀😀 Great videos!
Hi , thank you for your support, very much appreciated. If I can help anyone out there I'm happy . Thanks again for watching , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I hope you understand the Pun intended over the "The Art of Electronic" book :) but in this case in video format and for soldering. ...
Beautiful work. Relaxing to watch a top notch pro work calmly.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . If I can help anyone out then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
When you clean the chips with cloth (at 13:30 for example), how do you prevent damage from static electricity, do you f.e. wear an antistatic bracelet? Is there a danger for static electricity at all? :)
Hi , thank you for your question. I basically wear a simple anti static wrist band connected to a grounding plug which simply plugs into your wall socket . Many kits available online . Also I use the anti static mat . Also for certain jobs I wear antistatic shoes and have a small amount of anti static flooring down . As long as you wear the grounded wrist band that's fine. Thanks again 👍
Great video from a pro, I'm learning loads from you for my own channel, doing audio upgrades 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad the videos have been of help to you , that's great to hear . Good luck with your TH-cam channel I hope it does well . Took mine a year or so before I got much interest but I stuck with it and it's nice that people like yourself take the time to comment . Thanks again, take care 👍
Чудова робота! Дякую за відео!
One word, awesome ! Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Absolutely Excellent
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
2 quick question if you don't mind:
- at 4:32 are you touching the pin with the iron and then the pin with the solder?
- I have very little expercience soldering and only have a "large" 1.5mm tip. Is it possible to solder some of these types of components with it?
Thank you and thank for the great video as always
Hi , thank you for your comment. Most of the time I always tin my iron with a tiny amount of solder then place it on the pin then almost at the same time I come in with the solder . Other people would do it the other way round but that's my preference.
You would probably struggle to do any kind of small fine pitch soldering with a 1.5mm solder tip but maybe the PLCC is achievable. The main thing when doing the fine pitch stuff is to get some 0.25mm solder . This really is the biggest help to fine pitch soldering . Hope that helps , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you! I'll have to invest in a proper iron for sure and get a little more practise.
Hi . A better quality soldering iron makes a massive difference as firstly you should be able to get various tip sizes for it , whereas the cheap irons just tend to have 1 quite large one . I use a Weller TCP S iron that with the power supply you need is about £200. Still a lot of money but I'm sure there are others cheaper than mine that are a decent quality. Different size solders is a must as well in my opinion . I've spoke about this in some of my videos. Hopefully you'll get what you need and start to get way better ( practice and you will ) anyway thanks for your comments and watching the video , take care 👍
Hi@@mrsolderfix3996 Actually, my biggest problem is getting an iron and tips in the first place. Whithout importing, usually what is available is 600€+ soldering stations or 10/20€ irons. I managed to buy a JBC 40ST with the 1.5mm tip but I can't buy any other tips. I'll see if I can find the Weller TCP S iron. I don't mind having to save a little extra money and buy something better that will last a long time.
But with iron or no iron I'll keep practicing for sure. I really like soldering and find it very relaxing!
Thank you once again 👍
@@neo256mb I've been almost tempted by those but I'm not sure how reliable they are in the long term. Specially, how long the tips last. But I do hope I can try one of them in the future. They look very very handy.
Thank you for clear and helpful videos
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Hopefully the videos can help a few people out with their soldering. / desoldering issues. If they can then I'm happy. Thanks again , take care 👍
This is good need to get up to speed on technique .What temp. is your soldering iron set to ?
Thank you for your great video.
I had to solder some TQFPs a few years ago, and couldn't find any decent guide videos then.
With the short vertical-edge contacts on the TQFP, and the pads on the PCB I was using not extending very far beyond the chip, there wasn't a lot of space for excess solder to go, so there was a rather fine line between too little solder, and too much.
By trial and error using some cheap sacrificial chips (the ones I needed to solder were rather expensive), I found out the easiest way for me was to use excess solder paste for the hot air soldering, and then clean up any bridged pins later.
I couldn't get cleaning up with braid to work, though I don't use braid much, and I may well just have been doing it wrong, but it was surprisingly easy with just a soldering iron.
Using a relatively large (~2.3x4mm) flat oval tip, a clean and freshly-wiped iron drawn along an edge of the chip soaked up excess solder very well, and could even clear most of a whole line of bridged pins on the first pass. I guess that the large area of the tip gave plenty of space for the excess solder to go.
| learned that the secret for good wicking is to apply flux first to the wick to vastly improve the capillary action.
Hi , 100% true . Adding flux to your solder braid transforms it into super braid . I've even posted a video short on my channel showing this , so far it's had 1.2 million views with lots of positive comments . Thanks for commenting, take care 👍
I’ve done hand soldering using leaded solder for many years. I could easily switch to lead free with absolutely no problem. I’ll use that liquid flux, the low temp solder to aid with removal and then replace the chip.
Learning the basics of hot air soldering recently for my repair business. So I can take on more advanced and harder projects. But my biggest concern is finding a good pair of tweezers...
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've recently posted a complete video on my channel all about tweezers . May be of use to you . Thanks again 👍
Hi there
Amazing and entertaining instructional vids to be sure! Ty.
You mentioned ,when doing the Silicon chip, that you put a little bit of flux on your iron just before soldering the legs? How do you add the flux do your iron? Do you dip it in the flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. If I said I add flux to my iron I made a mistake , obviously should be to the items being soldered. Glad you enjoy the videos though , thanks for your support 👍
Excellent stuff, thanks for upload your videos ....very informative.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , really appreciated 👍
nice video as always. I would like to understand if when you clean the card from the flux how do you remove the one hidden behind the terminals or that remains under the chip? by wiping do you solve the conduction problem? or are you using a flux that doesn't have that problem? thank you and wait for your guide.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Yes you are right flux is somewhat conductive but after soldering and cooling is way less conductive than when originally applied . I use a no clean flux that manufacturers say in most applications the conductivity of this flux is way below causing any issues . Also in the video I state that I usually clean my boards in a certain way ( a complete cleaning video on TH-cam that I've posted shows my cleaning methods ) in this video the methods used totally remove all flux from around and underneath components as I did mention in the video I was only doing a light clean for the sake of this video so you could see the joints better . Hopefully that helps a little . Thanks again 👍
Thanks for posting beautiful work.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated 👍
Hi these are great tips, , can you advise on a good soldering iron for this kind of work please?
Hi , i use a Weller TCP S soldering iron , comes in 2 parts , base unit and soldering wand. Base units are harder to find these days though as it's quite an old style unit but one that I still absolutely love . The 2 tips I use mainly for it are PTP7 and DD8 , one is a small conical and the other a large flat sided. I also use a micro size Metcal iron but these are many hundreds of pounds so only really for the real serious solderers . Lots of people wanting a cheaper iron which will still do a great job go for irons made by Hakko. Plenty of TH-camrs show these irons in their videos so might be worth looking up that make . Hope that helps , take care 👍
Thank you. Great quality and information.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I will post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again for your support of my channel , take care 👍
Personally I prepare the pads with solder and then I apply the IC with flux, then I use my hot air station while holding the IC with my tweezers down. It works every time for IC's where they have too many pins. A nice microscope with clear view always helps though.
Are you using a reservoir tip when soldering small pitch SMD devices?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I use a Weller TCP S soldering iron and a small conical tip PTP7 for all of my fine pitch soldering in my videos . I don't use a reservoir tip ever . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for the extra info. I use a Weller WS 81 with a WSP 80 iron and a medium size chisel tip for most of my prototype work; mainly THT with an occasional SMD component across the Veroboard strips. My latest project also uses some mains 230V Voltage, so I definitely need to design a PCB for that. Still, I test the logic circuits on breadboard and Veroboard first to see if it all works as intended. I'm an amateur after all😁
Hi Mr. thanks for useful video. I have a question for you.
Soldering a QFN IC you ad some soldering wire in the large center pad. How is it the right ammount and what happer in case of to much material? is it possible a short circuit between the pads? Thanks for you tips
Hi , thank you for your comment. If your adding solder or paste to the centre pad you never need much . The mistake people make Is always adding to much especially round the edge pads , but like I showed if you add a small amount you will get a good joint with no bridges. The centre pad I tend to tin a small section because when melted this will spread across the whole pad and because QFN's sit flat to the board soldering contact will be made . Also most ( not all ) centre pads have via's that any excess tends to run down . Don't press and hold the QFN down as this could cause a problem . If you have to nudge the QFN down gently to get a row of joints to take ( like I did ) let go as soon as they are joined , but normally you don't have to do this. Hope that helps , take care 👍
Hey mister SolderFix, absolutely love your videos! What kind of flux and solder are you using?
Keep it up 🙂
Hi , thank you for your comment and for supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Thank you for your amazing videos! Your explanations are always clear and simple to follow!
Is there a way in which I can present you with one of my current soldering challenges..
I feel like it will be child's play for someone with so much experience but I would love to hear your approach.
Love this channel
Hi , thank you for your support, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues.
Thanks again , take care 👍
Have you done dead bug soldering, the turn those 6 pin j lead ics upside down, then solder from the now flat contact on the ic, to the board.
Hey Newbie here: Q -> I had intended on using Paste with gull wing IC and SMC. My Question is can I apply the paste directly to the IC/SMC instead of fiddling with the board ? Does that seem sensible to you?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Personally I've never known anyone add paste to the component rather than the PCB pads . I can imagine it would get more messy doing it that way so I would definitely recommend adding paste to the board rather than the IC legs as also there's a risk of bending some of the pins doing it that way . Thanks again , good luck 👍
Very nice useful videos thank you so much!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great info! if you don't mind me asking about your tools , what microscope are you using ?
Hi , thank you for your comment. The microscope is a stereo long reach microscope purchased from GT Vision ( England) , it's their own brand model but I love it . Branded models like Mieje are 5 times more expensive and while being amazing they are not worth the cost.
I do all my filming though on a mobile phone camera with a macro lens attached , that's how I get angles from the side and not directly above . Hopefully that helps , thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for the fast reply and indeed it helps 👍
Hi , no problem . Good luck with all of your soldering projects, take care 👍
Love the content. Really good tips and tricks. Have you got any advice for de-soldering and soldering small BGA devices. Have had limited success fixing tablets and the like.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm shortly going to post another removing devices , connectors etc video on TH-cam ( within the next 10 days ). The very last component I'm showing in this video is the removal and cleaning up of the pads of a small BGA device ( 81 pads ) , hopefully this will be of use to you . I'm not showing the refitting of a new BGA , I will probably do that in the future sometime. Thanks again , good luck 👍
hi, thanks for videos. what kind of mobile phone are you using to record these ? what kind of mount and extra Lens on the phone? how do you get it to do autofocus? If you put Affliate amazon links in the video details for us on some of your recording equipment and if we buy the stuff, it helps you out. I've been recommending your videos to everyone I know on different social media. I like how clean you keep all the videos.
Love the videos, you know if there's any practice boards for IC and if yes, where to get them from? Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I know there's a large selection of PCB sets and projects on Amazon and eBay that look like they cover what you need . Might be worth checking these 2 places out first . Thanks again and good luck 👍
after all the tacking completes: what material should we use for cleaning?
Hi , the best fluid I've ever found for cleaning PCB's is called Ultrasolve. Available from all the main stockists , Farnell , RS Components etc . Not sure in America with Mouser and Digikey but maybe they stock it . I posted a video on TH-cam a while back showing how I clean my PCB's , all the tips I know are in that video
Thank you for your comment , take care 👍
Excellent videos.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . If they help anyone out then that's great . I will keep posting more whenever I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi, great video, can I please ask what camera/microscope are you using to do this,
Thanks Dave Browne
What flux do you use? It seems far better than the flux pens I use
He covers this in a previous video. It is SMFL, and it comes in an aerosol can. I’m a total convert thanks to Mr Solder Fix. My usual technique is to squirt a bit into a bottle top and wait for it to go tacky before applying it with a brush. It’s weird, but great stuff.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Unfortunately after having used SMFL200D for many years it recently looks like it's been discontinued by the maker. I'm still looking into trying to find a similar flux . Think RS Components do one that looks pretty good but it's about £10 a can more so I will keep looking . If anyone knows of a good alternative to this liquid flux please drop a comment in so hopefully it can help us all out. Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Thanks for sharing
Which camera and lighting you are using? please share a link
What are some key things your running?? Flux, Solder, iron tip, and temperature????
*C'est ce que je voulais voir ! Merci.*
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad you liked the video , thanks again , take care 👍
What brand flux do you use?
Probably Amtech
what thickness solder wire did you used for it?
It's mentioned in the summary of the video.
Good job!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Hey, can you offer a video of soldering leads to an existing AMD, like an old fashioned mod chip? I used to have to take my PSX into an v electronics store where they would advertise that they could apply mod chips to individual pins on SFFP connectors so I would like to see that demonstrated if possible.
I was hoping you'll do a BGA soldering tutorial those seems to be the toughest
Hi . Your right BGA's are tough as really you need a proper stencil to solder paste the board and a reflow oven to flow the paste , things I don't have . Also there's no way even if I had this stuff that I could film these devices very clearly.
I've put plenty of micro BGA's on ( 6 pads ) with a hot air rework station and sticky flux but even these would be too small for me to film very clearly . Sorry I can't help on this one , take care 👍
Hello: what type of transparent flux do you use?
Hi , I've always used a great flux called SMFL200D . Unfortunately though it seems to have recently become discontinued so I'm in the process of trying to find a good new flux . At this moment I'm still looking so I can't really tell you what I now use . Sorry about that .
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks
The soldering iron methods look as though they are much gentler on the chip itself - a quick touch to each leg and it's done. The hot air method seems to expose the whole device to much more heat and for much longer. Obviously, that isn't really a problem because it works but it does seem counter intuitive.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Both methods are very safe if done correctly. I've used a heat gun hundreds of times over the years and to my best knowledge haven't damaged an IC due to the heat . I normally use about 370 degrees centigrade and they seem to handle this ok. When you have a QFN ic you don't have an option really due to the pad underneath the body. The soldering iron method does seem gentler , your right , but both methods overall are really safe.
Thanks again for your comment, take care 👍
What is that brush you are using to apply flux?
Very nice video excellent!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
I would also be keen to know which solder and flux you are using - in particular, what solder diameter?
He said he uses 0.25mm and said you could probably go up to 0.5mm
Thanks! 💪💪💪
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated 👍
Sir, what is the thickness of the solder wire that you are using?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I normally only use 2 sizes in my videos , they are 0.25mm and 0.5mm , both from BLT Circuits ( England ) . I have larger sizes i.e 0.7mm but never really use them . Thanks again 👍
Could you please explain (in the comment meybe) a little more about type of the tip of the solder iron, temperature of the solder iron, type of paste flux and soldering wire. Thanks in advance.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Hi I've mentioned all of these points in plenty of my other videos , it's hard to always keep repeating the same information every time . Hopefully you can find what you need elsewhere . Thanks again , take care 👍
😎 cool
Great video, where did you buy the 0.25mm leaded solder?
Hi . I don't actually own any 0.25mm leaded solder now . If I said it was leaded it's my mistake ( don't think I did ) , as a lot of companies are phasing out the smaller leaded . You can still get larger diameter leaded fairly easy . I've seen people on eBay selling 0.25mm leaded but I've always brought mine from Farnell or BLT Circuits in England as i know its the proper stuff. I get shiny joints from my unleaded which is Nitrosol Sn100SB , flux : SD-82 , 2.2%. BLT Circuits sell this.
Unleaded stays shinier when not put through reflow ovens but instead hand soldered , causing people to think your using leaded. Hope that helps , thanks for your comment 👍
Thanks very much, I buy from Farnell too and their unleaded goes down to 0.15mm but I prefer the leaded which is difficult to find. I have leaded 0.274mm from Wharton metals but that’s the smallest.
Never used the BLT site but just found a 0.25mm leaded 62/37, thanks for heads up.
Hi , that's why I like making these videos because people like yourself pass me information that I didn't know , like the leaded you said you used ( Wharton ) .
It's good that we can all help each other out as I've always said , no one knows everything and we can all learn more.
BLT Circuits are a good reliable firm . A few places I have worked at have always got their solders and solder paste from them , and it's very good quality . Thanks again 👍
Those PLCCs are a pain. I’ve never tried soldering them with an iron and normally use paste, but you have to get the amount spot on. Will try your technique next time.
Hi , if you follow how I do these I'm sure you'll be fine . They are actually pretty easy once you've tacked them into position . I've fitted hundreds over the years and never really struggled as the legs tend to be farther apart than most IC's. Flux is key to these being made easier as the solder travels round the pin pretty quickly and you can get a lovely secure joint without to much difficulty. Good luck with when you try these and thank you again for your support of my channel , take care 👍
Yup, 50mil spacing. My normal approach is a bead of paste but occasionally I get a pair of pins bridged, or worse, not enough solder under the J and end up messing around with “your” lovely flux and the only way to clear a bridge is with air and the iron. That said my last board with 3 PLCCs and a couple of SOJs turned out ok.
I’m very keen to try an alternative that is quicker and more “exact” though. I’ll need to sort through my iron tips for the right one. I’ve soldered 240 pin QFPs, but PLCCs out of their sockets still give me the willies. Thanks for your videos mate, you really are the absolute expert at this stuff and I really appreciate you taking your time to educated us, less knowledgeable, folks.
Hi , I know you will get on fine with the PLCC's . Once tacked on and checked for positioning they are pretty easy to solder . As you see in the video I use a small conical shape tip and just do one pin at a time . This works every time for me and I very rarely get a short to remove doing it this way . You will definitely be ok . Thanks for supporting my channel , very much appreciated, take care 👍
also, if u do have the video that shows you working with short circuits, i would like to watch it. i searched but didnt see it
thx
is there a reason that your vias are exposed? I came cross it sometimes and mine is always isolated with solder mask.
I'd like to know if it is somehow beneficial
Hi , thank you for your comment. No there's not really a reason I can think of why they would be exposed like this . This isn't my product , it's just a board I have laying around . Maybe they are cheaper to manufacture doing it without solder mask. Personally I like vias to be protected but I guess some people aren't that worried. Thanks again for your comment , take care 👍
The only benefit I can see is untented vias double up as test points. :)
@@lawrencemanning yep that's one may be. But short circuit may be occurred while soldering, right? Especially with underpads of ic
@@thenextproblem8001 yeah you do have to be careful. You’d definitely want to avoid untented vias around pads. The default in KiCAD is to always tent em and that’s what I go with.
@@lawrencemanning better to cover it than 🙏
What's the benefit of QFN over QFP? Is it only a smaller board footprint?
Once again thank you, really appreciated.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I will always put new postings up when I can as long as people find them useful . Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects, take care 👍
Thanks :)
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Was wondering the flux are you using.
thanks!
Hi , thank you for watching the video, much appreciated 👍
❤❤❤
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Sir wich flux used and iorn details sir
thanks
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Very neatly done,if I wore an hat I would take it off too you.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
👍👍👌👌
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
I would like to see a how to remove these components video. Does anyone know the best way to do so, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've showed a few removal methods for IC's in other videos . I will try and do one featuring different types of IC's . I know I've shown QFN and BGA removals and I did an old video showing 4 ways to remove a 2 row IC. I don't post that many videos due to lack of spare time but I will try . Thanks again , take care 👍
Pleas show me put USB in mainboard
I feel so inadequate watching you work. You treat those components like you are a plumber joining pipes. It's sickening. I've got a floor covered with SMDs that have twanged across the room with my ham fisted attempts to hold stuff in place and join the legs. All credit you've obviously done it before 😀. A real masterclass in how it should be done. I think I'm going to take up woodwork.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I started off many years ago in the same way you describe , stuck with it , got better equipment when I could , and with the help of other great people , and plenty of practice just got way better . Hopefully I can pass some knowledge on so other people wanting to improve can do so . Stick with it and we can get better , good luck , and take care 👍
Yeah 👍👍🤣👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for your comment . Hopefully I can help a few people out . Your time is very much appreciated, take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 but, your video is more important & knowledgeable than my time.......
Hi , thank you, take care 👍
Alal vera majstore...
Hi , thank you for watching the video , and your comment , very much appreciated 👍
👋👋👋💪💪💪👌👌👌!!!
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , glad you enjoyed the video 👍
😮
Question answered ....🙃
Hi , I'm glad you found the answer . Thank you for your support and comment , much appreciated,👍
asmr
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
DNA surgeon 😷
Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Jones Scott Robinson William Davis Brian
nice bro.. very clean tacks
hey, if u want - i have a couple microphones - i can send u if u want - if u do just lmk
no charge… just $20 for shipping… jk, really. u dont have to pay anything