I was poking fun at mike for not using a comma after "flux" and also capitalizing Dude. Such a combination technically implies a name even though in context it makes sense that he's saying "Flux, dude!"
I agree on this video about 'anchoring the first pin' - but drowning the pins with solder and suck it off afterwards is not really how I handle these SMD / TSSOP devices; - Just add a little bit of flux to the PCB traces for the device you want to solder. - Carefully place your device on the fluxed traces. - yes, anchor the first pin like in this video but keep in mind the technique below: - Put a small ball of solder on your (preferred chisel-tip) welder and just place it on the outer area of the PCB trace. The solder will follow the trace to the pin and the all ever beautiful cohesive power will suck the solder underneath the pins of the device, making an instant clean solder, no bridges; clean. Just a dot of solder on your welding tip will probably allow you to nicely connect about three pins of the device. It's a much more economic way to use your solder too!
Watch out for the QFP chips with a central bottom pad. While some of those center pads are just for thermal dissipation others actually are important ground connections. On those that have important grounding requirements, your technique will not provide reliable results. On those where the central pad is only for thermal reasons, you may have to watch out for heat dissipation. Getting that bottom center pad actually soldered is nearly impossible using only a soldering iron. But one technique that could work is instead of soldering the single corner pin, use a low temperature solder and lightly tin the bottom pad on the PCB and the pad on the chip. A very thin coating. Then heat the PCB from the under side to re-melt the solder and make that the first connection to a QFP, not the corner pin. If you can get your hand on a small tube of solder bearing paste, then use a small drop of paste on the PCB pad instead of tinning the PCB pad and the chip. Still very difficult to make that solder connection with a soldering iron. if the PCB has thermal vias the transfer heat quickly through the PCB to the pad, that will make it easier. But the whole process will be quite a bit easier to do with a hot air gun. With a hot aid gun you can also do BGA chips. If you're doing a lot of QFP chips, buy a hot air gun and a small tube of solder bearing paste. You'll eliminate a lot of problems. Keep the solder paste in the fridge so it doesn't go bad (it will separate if you don't) and use it for those special chips.
I was told by a hand pocket watch maker, "never drink caffeine when dealing with small parts." It allows you to be more precise in your body movements.
+Nick Farrow Exactly. I do most of my manual SMD work before first coffee. Collin generally knows his stuff, but if I would have submitted this board for approval back when I was in school, my teacher would have given me a C at best, with the warning that the board may as well stop working within a year or so.
+Kaj Schulten Being hyper critical is in no way a good thing. He did a way better job in my book, than what I could do. Knowing how and watching someone do it is very different. Collin is defiantly not a muggle indeed.
I use painter's tape cut into thin strips to hold down large multipin devices before soldering. This lets you reposition and align the device before applying any solder at all.
I personally think you did great! If you think about it, flux is to move the heat across the solder surface point rapidly to get the solder to flow across that point. The points of heating are so small here that the only difference it would probably make is making a mess to clean up. Keep up the good work and I do like the comedy added. If anyone noticed?? LOL!
No no no, don't solder like this! Use flux and don't go over all the solders with that solder wick it will damage the pads, pcb and the risk of shorts are really high.
this de-soldering pump is really nice looking, i ended up buying one. could you maybe consider doing a video on de-soldering? (if you haven't already) maybe including some of the other methods like electronic/powered vacuum pumps?
I’m very noob about soldering, just two questions. 1) what solder do you use? (If you could link one) 2) what temperature do you use for solder wires! Chips, desoldering?
Hi Collin! Love your tutorials! One question, I noticed that you used the Hakko soldering station for this (SMS) project. What temperature did you set your Hakko to? What soldering tip did you use? Thanks much!!
Soldering components is so much harder than I expected it to be. I grew up using a soldering iron to make stain glass projects, but I’m finding now that I’m trying to solder electronic components it’s much more difficult.
with your final example no exposed pins i have found tinning everything seperatly and then setting the chip down to solder with a hot air station makes for an easier and cleaner looking install
For those saying use flux, do you put the flux on the pads before you begin to solder? How precise do you have to be with the flux? When I'm soldering my solder gets really sticky and sticks to my tip.
In uni solder class we had 2 hours to solder and we had some really good chats with the people on our table. Couldn't help but notice, the table with the girls and guys together (only 4 chicks in the session, there were 25 guys) was the one having the cheerful convo. The guys just didn't talk...
Getting set up to film this has to be a huge pain in the ass. The shots look great though - whatever camera & rig is being used to film him doing the actual soldering (while not getting in his way I hope) must be cool.
I found out the hard way that brushing the solder wick crosswise on ic chips with extra fine legs just mangled them. I brush the wick parallel with legs now.
I need suggestions for how to deal with very unsteady hands. I have considered trying to build a remote control arm/robot with filtering to remove the shake frequencies. Or has someone already invented that?
+Sebastien Bournival In my college lab, we've always used 650°F on our HAKKO-888 stations. My professors basically recommended that initially, keep the temp down a bit while you get used to how SMD soldering feels and then you can turn it up a bit (I use 700°F now) when you feel more comfortable and can make quicker connections. Otherwise you'll put too much heat in your components.
+Red Ambassador 650 celsius?! Don't you mean 650 fahrenheit? 650 celsius is WAY too hot, I've never had to go much past 400C for even the most stubborn soldering jobs.
Derp. I was being stupid... Yeah, Fahrenheit wouldn't make any sense. Matter of fact, I checked the Hakko website and the FX-888D has a temperature range of 120° - 899°F (50° - 480°C). So, yeah, obviously it can't go up to 650°C. Thanks for correcting me!
It's a great video and thank you!! On my Chuwi Hi9Air tablet, I want to disconnect battery. Manufacturer has two battery poles ending not on a pin connector, so, pole cables are connected on the motherboard soldered. Two pole cables are extremely thin, and also, soldered cables ending are extremely small. I have never seen such a tiny solder. I find it too difficult to unsolder. And if we suppose I unsolder correctly, without any damage, soldering back, e.g. battery replacement, the new battery, I mean the pole cables, is extremely difficult and risky to solder without doing any e.g. bridging damage, and finally damaging completely the motherboard. Would you have something to suggest me in all that? Thank you for your time!
Instead of tweezers, I like to use my thumbnail. I get too shaky with tweezers. There is also the added fun of accidentally starting a game of tiddly winks as the occasional resistor flicks off the board, never to be seen again.
I prefer using Solder paste and a hot air gun. the speed is about the same, but you get much cleaner results. The main problem I feel is that solder wire doesn't have enough flux for the job, and most liquid (and even jel) fluxes are poor quality; they just stink/stick up the board with little effect. decent LEAD solder paste has plenty of flux and reworks like a dream. it actually makes QFN's the easiest of all to solder, as the chip easily locates itself and squashing it down a few times with a pair of tweezers while hot quirts out any excess solder without creating bridges.
This video have good explanation with it. The problem is the quality of soldering. Technically, idea and theoretical explanation is very good but the actual soldering is the problem. Try to improve soldering, the way you teach it verbally.
Uh, I guess the buried thermal pad on the QFN device doesn't need to be connected... for this circuit. For some devices, you need to connect it for both thermal reasons and electrically.
To watch this video... FIRST set the playback speed to 1.5x. This fixes the slooooow speech and while the music sounds only a little better at fast speed it goes by much faster!
FLUX Dude!
+mikeselectricstuff "Soder-wick" Heheh.
Who is this "Flux Dude"? :P
I was poking fun at mike for not using a comma after "flux" and also capitalizing Dude. Such a combination technically implies a name even though in context it makes sense that he's saying "Flux, dude!"
I'm legally changing my name to Flux Dude now.
james moreton Now, would you please welcome to the stage, the new #1 hit rapper, Solda Wik Flux Dude!
More Colins lab please. This man inspired me to give hobby electronics a try.
4years later yeah man more!!! More!!!
I didn't realise how good this guy really is until I tried SMD soldering for myself
He is terrible at soldering ic components, too much solder and if u do it correctly with flux u dont need desolder tools
The thumbnail for this video is a work of art.
+gummiflummi91 Thanks - I am surprised they aren't offering it as a print or something.
+Afrotechmods I dont expect that you was here before... :)
Wish i could see it because i "overclocked" my phone
Omg the master knows Collin and Scott
Afrotechmods well, if you had a print I think someone might get the wrong idea of what it means!
I agree on this video about 'anchoring the first pin' - but drowning the pins with solder and suck it off afterwards is not really how I handle these SMD / TSSOP devices;
- Just add a little bit of flux to the PCB traces for the device you want to solder.
- Carefully place your device on the fluxed traces.
- yes, anchor the first pin like in this video but keep in mind the technique below:
- Put a small ball of solder on your (preferred chisel-tip) welder and just place it on the outer area of the PCB trace. The solder will follow the trace to the pin and the all ever beautiful cohesive power will suck the solder underneath the pins of the device, making an instant clean solder, no bridges; clean.
Just a dot of solder on your welding tip will probably allow you to nicely connect about three pins of the device.
It's a much more economic way to use your solder too!
Yep that's what I do. But I'm lucky to have a Metcal MX-5000 solering iron and use SMTC-0167 tips for this sort of work.
talk about overkill jesus
Overkill Jesus sounds like a pretty metal dude.
That would also be easier for people who do not have great fine motor skills.
I thumb him up because it leads to your comment.
Watch out for the QFP chips with a central bottom pad. While some of those center pads are just for thermal dissipation others actually are important ground connections. On those that have important grounding requirements, your technique will not provide reliable results. On those where the central pad is only for thermal reasons, you may have to watch out for heat dissipation. Getting that bottom center pad actually soldered is nearly impossible using only a soldering iron. But one technique that could work is instead of soldering the single corner pin, use a low temperature solder and lightly tin the bottom pad on the PCB and the pad on the chip. A very thin coating. Then heat the PCB from the under side to re-melt the solder and make that the first connection to a QFP, not the corner pin. If you can get your hand on a small tube of solder bearing paste, then use a small drop of paste on the PCB pad instead of tinning the PCB pad and the chip. Still very difficult to make that solder connection with a soldering iron. if the PCB has thermal vias the transfer heat quickly through the PCB to the pad, that will make it easier. But the whole process will be quite a bit easier to do with a hot air gun. With a hot aid gun you can also do BGA chips. If you're doing a lot of QFP chips, buy a hot air gun and a small tube of solder bearing paste. You'll eliminate a lot of problems. Keep the solder paste in the fridge so it doesn't go bad (it will separate if you don't) and use it for those special chips.
Use some liquid flux first.
+bkupiec And a flux remover when you're done. As Dave Jones would say - that looks a bit crusty!
I was told by a hand pocket watch maker, "never drink caffeine when dealing with small parts." It allows you to be more precise in your body movements.
+Nick Farrow Exactly. I do most of my manual SMD work before first coffee. Collin generally knows his stuff, but if I would have submitted this board for approval back when I was in school, my teacher would have given me a C at best, with the warning that the board may as well stop working within a year or so.
+Kaj Schulten Being hyper critical is in no way a good thing. He did a way better job in my book, than what I could do. Knowing how and watching someone do it is very different. Collin is defiantly not a muggle indeed.
I use painter's tape cut into thin strips to hold down large multipin devices before soldering. This lets you reposition and align the device before applying any solder at all.
You're the only reason I'm subscribed to this channel.
I personally think you did great! If you think about it, flux is to move the heat across the solder surface point rapidly to get the solder to flow across that point. The points of heating are so small here that the only difference it would probably make is making a mess to clean up. Keep up the good work and I do like the comedy added. If anyone noticed?? LOL!
No no no, don't solder like this! Use flux and don't go over all the solders with that solder wick it will damage the pads, pcb and the risk of shorts are really high.
this de-soldering pump is really nice looking, i ended up buying one.
could you maybe consider doing a video on de-soldering?
(if you haven't already)
maybe including some of the other methods like electronic/powered vacuum pumps?
After a long time a video from Collin's Lab
Please upload a video of Collin's Lab regularly every one week or two week
Super useful, always been terrified of surface mount despite cost advantages, but this video has inspired me to have a go. Thank you!
FLUX FLUX FLUX.......
I’m very noob about soldering, just two questions. 1) what solder do you use? (If you could link one) 2) what temperature do you use for solder wires! Chips, desoldering?
1206 - I could do it
0805 - Still fair...
0603 - It's getting tricky
0402 - Where did it fly now?! It's the fifth component that did this this hour!
It's quite relaxing, Mr. Anderson.
I've been a long fan of Collins videos. they're very well done and clear
This has made me so much happier about my SMD soldering videos...use some flux man!
Your very steady hands help a lot too. Great video Collin :)
Very nice video on SMT hand soldering.
I would recommend spending the $20 on a cheapo hot air station and some solder paste. Makes the process worlds easier
Collin's Labs are the best, I watch every single one, I may have an addiction
Me three
me four
Hi Collin! Love your tutorials! One question, I noticed that you used the Hakko soldering station for this (SMS) project. What temperature did you set your Hakko to? What soldering tip did you use? Thanks much!!
Soldering components is so much harder than I expected it to be. I grew up using a soldering iron to make stain glass projects, but I’m finding now that I’m trying to solder electronic components it’s much more difficult.
Glad to see you back
you can actually remove the excess solder with just the iron tip, if you have flux, you don't need the braid or solder extractor
Wow! Thank you for this video! I'm blown away... I wish I saw this video before I started connecting my neopixels!
with your final example no exposed pins i have found tinning everything seperatly and then setting the chip down to solder with a hot air station makes for an easier and cleaner looking install
solder paste & reflow soldering is much easier whenever you are able to
Best SMD video ever.
What a fantastic video. Great job Collin!
For those saying use flux, do you put the flux on the pads before you begin to solder? How precise do you have to be with the flux? When I'm soldering my solder gets really sticky and sticks to my tip.
The best tutorial in electronics!great video!!
that relaxing part reduced my fear quite a bit :D
In uni solder class we had 2 hours to solder and we had some really good chats with the people on our table. Couldn't help but notice, the table with the girls and guys together (only 4 chicks in the session, there were 25 guys) was the one having the cheerful convo. The guys just didn't talk...
some flux and less solder will be better than your way
WAY less
Frank Alvarez less solder and a finer solder too, he's using one that is too think for small smd pads, it will be hard to control otherwise
and maybe a smaller soldering iron
Getting set up to film this has to be a huge pain in the ass. The shots look great though - whatever camera & rig is being used to film him doing the actual soldering (while not getting in his way I hope) must be cool.
stryk187 its most probably a microscope, like what Louis Rossman uses
Well done Mr. Collin, well done . . . love the music bro.
Collin is my hero! Who else can hand build a metro while wearing a suit?
watching smd work is so satisfying!
I believe everything this guy says because he has glasses and a very nice suit.
I'am bought
Is there any specific breadboard to prototype your project with SMD?
Or just prototype with through hole components first then go to SMD?
Thank you Mr. Collin
Thanks for the tips.on SMD soldering
Nice beard! You look very distinguished.
I have same smd soldering process using iron box method simple and easy to use .
This is too satisfying...
I found out the hard way that brushing the solder wick crosswise on ic chips with extra fine legs just mangled them. I brush the wick parallel with legs now.
quite relaxing indeed. thanks for sharing
You missed the centre pad on the QFN. Also, the resistors didn't have enough solder.
Solder Paste and a heat gun will do the trick too!
Exactly
Collin u r always a relaxing man. I am your great fannnn
as a kid i watched every video from you
im still only 17 tho
I missed Collin!
nice work sir....................keep going on
collin your beard is epic!
On EEVBLOG Dave would say your soldering looks a bit how ya doin'. Why wouldn't you use flux and a hot air gun? Faster, easier, and better results.
"Quite relaxing" ?!?! You're a freak !!!
Aaand subscribed xD
hello Collins beard, nice to meet you.
I need suggestions for how to deal with very unsteady hands. I have considered trying to build a remote control arm/robot with filtering to remove the shake frequencies. Or has someone already invented that?
Is there a direct contact with the solder tip and the surface? Or are you letting the metal drip to the surface?
Nice work sir
Looking good Collin!
Your shorts are great, you are the Sagan of electronics :D
What's your recommend temperature on your soldering station, in particular for the bridge and desolder technique on ICs?
+Sebastien Bournival In my college lab, we've always used 650°F on our HAKKO-888 stations. My professors basically recommended that initially, keep the temp down a bit while you get used to how SMD soldering feels and then you can turn it up a bit (I use 700°F now) when you feel more comfortable and can make quicker connections. Otherwise you'll put too much heat in your components.
+Red Ambassador 650 celsius?! Don't you mean 650 fahrenheit? 650 celsius is WAY too hot, I've never had to go much past 400C for even the most stubborn soldering jobs.
+Red Ambassador Unless you're using lead-free solder... in which case you might have to get that hot but I still doubt it.
Derp. I was being stupid... Yeah, Fahrenheit wouldn't make any sense. Matter of fact, I checked the Hakko website and the FX-888D has a temperature range of 120° - 899°F (50° - 480°C). So, yeah, obviously it can't go up to 650°C. Thanks for correcting me!
i can't watch how you drag that wick and scrape that board with hard copper and tin-lead alloy (solder)
you can lift sooo many traces with it...
this is not a good technical skill at all
Yeah, he should probably be using a chisel tip iron and applying heat to multiple pins simultaneously...
Louis uses wick to get excess off a board, but he doesn't press on it with an iron and drag.
Messy work on the chips with that wick was painful to watch. Less solder and using a clean tip to pull away solder gives much nicer results.
does the process change when using homemade circuit boards that may not have solder mask, and how do you keep from removing too much solder?
Thanks Collin.
Love Collin's Lab
+Adafruit Industries
Great video. Why not just use reflow? Are there any advantages to using this?
+jagjit bhatia also, wouldn't a chisel tip iron have been better for this? The flat tip would seem to match the pins well.
Very Helpful Video. However, what Microscope and Camera did you use?
That was cool and relaxing...
It's a great video and thank you!! On my Chuwi Hi9Air tablet, I want to disconnect battery. Manufacturer has two battery poles ending not on a pin connector, so, pole cables are connected on the motherboard soldered. Two pole cables are extremely thin, and also, soldered cables ending are extremely small. I have never seen such a tiny solder. I find it too difficult to unsolder. And if we suppose I unsolder correctly, without any damage, soldering back, e.g. battery replacement, the new battery, I mean the pole cables, is extremely difficult and risky to solder without doing any e.g. bridging damage, and finally damaging completely the motherboard. Would you have something to suggest me in all that? Thank you for your time!
Isn't solder wick leaving a ton of residue and making a general mess of the finished product?
+Deses solder does, solder wick not so much. just clean the board with alcohol on a qtip
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen I refer to that yellow gunk, isn't that the burnt Flux?
Deses
yes
I use solder paste and hot air gun. Looks nicer and easier to work.
Instead of tweezers, I like to use my thumbnail. I get too shaky with tweezers. There is also the added fun of accidentally starting a game of tiddly winks as the occasional resistor flicks off the board, never to be seen again.
I prefer using Solder paste and a hot air gun. the speed is about the same, but you get much cleaner results. The main problem I feel is that solder wire doesn't have enough flux for the job, and most liquid (and even jel) fluxes are poor quality; they just stink/stick up the board with little effect.
decent LEAD solder paste has plenty of flux and reworks like a dream. it actually makes QFN's the easiest of all to solder, as the chip easily locates itself and squashing it down a few times with a pair of tweezers while hot quirts out any excess solder without creating bridges.
Thank you, Collin! =)
This is very good
I definitely need a new soldering iron. Looks such a breeze using a good one, fast to heat pads, etc.
1.2mm chisel tip on a Hakko. And lead solder.
hi what kind of solder paste are you using ?
You solder like a robot!
How much can direct contact with the soldering iron these parts take?
Thank you very much for the great video.
😊
"...you too can work like a machine." Agent Smith confirmed!!!
This video have good explanation with it. The problem is the quality of soldering. Technically, idea and theoretical explanation is very good but the actual soldering is the problem. Try to improve soldering, the way you teach it verbally.
"You too, can work, like a machine... Mr. Anderson"
Uh, I guess the buried thermal pad on the QFN device doesn't need to be connected... for this circuit. For some devices, you need to connect it for both thermal reasons and electrically.
aha, have a hole under the package
4:15 Hey, it looks like you accidentally soldered those 2 pins together. OH MY GOD, What are you doing!?!?
It seemed like the iron was in contact fro a long time in some cases. Any risk of damaging the component? What setting is the iron on?
5 seconds is ok.
FLUX Collin
I've heard tomestoning can be a problem. Any suggestions on this and other common issues when first starting?
+Rouverius keep your parts in place until the solder is actually cooled down on the first pin. Don't apply heat for too long
+Kyle McNicoll Thanks
To watch this video... FIRST set the playback speed to 1.5x. This fixes the slooooow speech and while the music sounds only a little better at fast speed it goes by much faster!
Is he on something, or is he naturally that irritating?
Nice music!
Someone should tell them poor Americans that there is no A in solder!
I love this song in the background : 3
Excellent very exciting
he is just so god damn cool.
well done ...